What Am I Doing Wrong? - Airless Spraying Graco GX19
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- I forgot to mention I am using a 310 tip @ 600 PSI. While we did get the Emerald Urethane to layout very smooth, I know it can still be better. The ProClassic Hybrid did decent, I could've sprayed it slower and changed the outcome. It did eventually level out a little bit better. I am still waiting on the outcome of the oil.
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I forgot to mention I am using a 310 tip @ 600 PSI. While we did get the Emerald Urethane to layout very smooth, I know it can still be better. The ProClassic Hybrid did decent, I could've sprayed it slower and changed the outcome. It did eventually level out a little bit better. I am still waiting on the outcome of the oil.
Emerald Urethane for the WIN! It's expensive but well worth it. Combine it with HVLP and it does really well. We usually put a little bit of water with the urethane to thin it down. That may not be necessary with your sprayer but needed with HVLP. If you try and use paint thinner with the the urethane, the thinner will sit on top and not mix in, fyi. Great video man
Finish Carpentry TV I’d bump up the pressure a bit, 600 psi is crazy low. You can see your pump fluctuate tons on the second door, and too much fingering on the third door. But definitely a decent little unit!
Don Thomson thanks everyone for all the advice. It really is a lot harder than people think. Especially since every paint is different.
You spent a $1000 on a sprayer. My wife would kill me if I did that. Hahaha
Jared Parker thanks for giving reason #1,365 to NOT get married.
I am just a diy guy looking to upgrade my home. I have learned so much by watching your videos! From the bottom of my heart, Thank you! Your a great teacher and a extremely talented craftsman!!!
If you spray the edges first you will paint over the overspray in the field where the finish counts.
Been using Emerald urethane for some time now. Best product I know for wood finish.
Try laying the doors. It will let the paint level and diminish orange peel effect.
This will also let you put more product on without runs.
Most importantly, sand the primer and between finish coats with 220 grit.
Been painting for 10 years now, found this to give the smoothest finish.
Agreed. When I used Emerald Urethane 2 years ago, laying the cabinet doors down and applying a nice thick coat worked really well for self leveling. Dries really really slow tho. Vertical surfaces did still have just the faintest orange peel texture. You had to have light and viewing angle just to see it. The threshold for moving from orange peel to dripping while painting vertical surfaces is tricky. You must spray enough of a coat to eliminate the orange peel texture, but not too much to where the paint will run on the vertical surface. This is why you should lay things flat when you are able.
Incredibly impressive how you spent the day just honing your craft and teaching yourself and asking for feedback you were just like ..blow my mind...Involves so much work having to clean that sprayer every time between coats and then you’re gonna repeat it to make sure you got everything the way you need to
Well Richard, you've received quite alot of replies. Most of them are well intentioned but, for the most part, are just that. My advise to you, if you;re even interested, is to continue experimenting. I have been a custom painter for 43 years. I have worked most of that time as a high end painter in places like Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Cheviot Hills, etc... you probably wont acheive the results you're looking for without experience and the only way to get experience is to keep at it. Those of us with years of experience usually approach each project without even thinking about what we are doing. For example, I'm not even sure what presure setting I use for each product I spray. I have put up thousands of gallons of lacquer, oil, acrylic and a fair amount of the new water based lacquers. It is usually so routine that I just set it up by the way it feels. The old saying "Practice makes perfect" still applies. I sure like your videos. I hope you're around for years to come sharing your talents with us. Keep up the good work Richard. Bob.
Why do painters always brag/lie about their experience? Have not noticed this in any other profession.
@@jerkster9114 you havent met a taper
@@mam241 you haven't met a carpenter.
Jerkster every tradesman out there does that. Trust me, I’ve been on job sites for 85 years.
Jerkster being that it’s not an easy life doing this messy work all day long. When a painter does get recognized for some nice faux finish work
Or doing a nice antique finish on a set of custom cabinets and sprayed. It’s not boasting, just appreciating a job well done.
After 45 yrs as a painting contractor, I have met a lot of proud boasting cabinet makers. I never stop learning, I have spent many hours looking at auto body painting, especially prep. These guys deserve a lot of praise for what they can pull off. I’ve sprayed some cars ,and it’s not an easy trade.
Everyone who picks up a paintbrush isn’t a real painter, just as a guy who pounds a nail with a hammer isn’t a real carpenter.
I don’t like boasting about my work, I just get annoyed by these guys on CZcams that think their way is just so perfect as to
Profess it the way they do. Imagine how they might think after painting high end work for 45 yrs compared to the slop they’re turning out
After just a few yrs in the business painting like mommy homeowner can do just like them.
Dude, I love your videos. It's nice to see somebody who cares about what they do. I do a lot of finishing and furniture repair and restoration on the side. Finishing is how I lost all my hair as a matter of fact. You can only pull so much out until it's gone. I use a Fuji 4 stage turbine HVLP. It was also around six hundred bucks. You, being a trim man know that the devil's in the details. I pretty much do things the way you do other than I normally lay my doors down flat on a set of horses I have made just for that. It seems I worry less about runs that way. And your finish also starts to lay out faster. We do more stains and clear finishes than we do paint grade but, we always sand between every coat. So it seems to me you're doing all right and the next thing you'll have to figure out is how to get a production line going. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
Bro. Your so flipping humble it's unreal. I wish I was like that when I started.
I have used the emerald for a couple of years now and i love the finished look. Satin or semi-gloss, either one looks good. I leave it to the customer preference. One thing i do is hit the sides first to avoid overspray on the front part of the door which is the money shot. Great job. I am a huge fan and i have watched all your videos.
Very instructive videos, with a lot of patience and understanding of the work your doing, keep up the good work little brother, I like your style.
Love the Emerald Urethane. We use it on cabinetry all the time
Like I said before I don't paint I watch your videos because your a great Craftsmen and have much respect for you your an honest dude operator error how many people would actually say that great video keep up the pride in your work
I'm not a painter by any means, however, nice touch with the drone footage! To me your video production skills are improving nicely. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
I did get a kick out of felling for texture with the glove, reminds of something I would do!
just to add 2c i use a diff technique to wipe with the tack cloth. Long strokes same direction using a diff part every time i wrap the cloth in soft foam and wipe. Don`t know your system but i have to change nozzles for each type. High heat will mess up your finish get a thermo/hygrometer and keep records. Dont want to sound i know it all (not by far). Thanks a lot for sharing man always pick up somthing. :D peter
I don’t typically comment, but I have always liked your videos. I own a cabinet shop and we use air assured airless. It’s expensive, but it comes out like glass. I found a used one with a gun less than 500. Food for thought. Good job.
I think that a lot of people have already addressed the pressure. Also it is a good idea to keep your gun to one base. Also when using water based finishes stay away from the oil based tack cloths. We only run water based finishes in my shop and we use micro fiber cloths,works great. We run the same rig as well.
Awesome job. We have three exterior doors to paint on our house 3 on the garage, two bathroom doors and three sets of closet doors to paint. We got a Graco sprayer, had decided to use BIN shellac. Emerald was what I was going to use. I really, really thank you for this video. I feel more confident now.
Your right when you were moving slower the first coat definitely improved. If you go back and look when you did the primer you see that the coverage wasn't as good as when you slowed down for the Emerald Urethane. I usually spray stays and polyurethane, but I go in knowing that I am going to do 3 or 4 coats of each with a light sanding between coats and I really take my time for the last stain coat and the last poly coat. Good video.
Now as for the paint sprayer, I have found one of the smaller hand held units, airless sprayer's with the screw on canister's works really well on trim from my past experience. Needless to say, the instructional videos from Graco talk about taking slow, passes on whatever it is you are painting. As well as, overlapping the passes, as you were doing in this video. As for the tip, I have a 313 that I use most of the time, and a 515 that I only use when I am covering a larger area! Although, I believe the 4-6 inch fan size is probably as wide as you would ever want to go. Plus everyone I ever learned from when I was younger always sprayed from left to right. Not saying they were right, that is just how they did it. However, they were some pretty good painters, and even now, are still back up with work.
Thanks, I appreciate your work on these samples...
Man that’s smooth I don’t think I have to sand it
Takes off glove: yea I have to sand it 😂😂
Thanks for taking the time to post your videos; keep up the good work. I also liked the feedback and comments added below.
Another great video, I would have to agree to turning the pressure up a little, also use Ben Moore cabinet coat,very low odor and beautiful finish. Just finished painting 47 cabinets for a retail store with it could not be happier
I'm a union painter here in New Jersey and I gotta say your work is a pleasure to watch. You are very meticulous with a lot of attention to detail. Very refreshing since production is more of the norm these days as opposed to quality.
My business is based on details. Customers really enjoy value for their hard earned money spent. The slap it together and let it ride sucks at best. All I know my clients refer me to there friends without me asking. The proof is always in the pudding.
I had occasion to do some spraying of doors, I used a waterbase paint and I added Floetrol to the point and I got a much better finish. I think we get orange peel because the paint is drying while being sprayed and so goes on "chunky." The Floetrol may be the answer to your issue. Best regards.
I volunteer a ton with Habitat. U have taught me a few tricks to do some trim work for the and some other tricks for trim work
Excellent demo! A lot of your personal time dedicated to mastering your new sprayer. RESPECT! 👊
But won't he have a new skill to make more money? Not sure of many professions where you strictly learn on the job and not with your offtime.
Great video! I appreciate your recommendation on different paints.
Nice to be connected, I went to my local restore, also to buy a door, and was told no haggling was allowed at restore when I offered to pay less.
9:47 haha this is why I keep watching :) always get a good laugh 😛 no but you do quality work. We need more craftsman like you in Texas
First of all I would just like to say that I watch your videos and enjoy not only the way you do them but also the quality and the craftsmanship of your work. For a smoother finish I would try thinning down your paint a little and maybe using a small amount of Floetrol in it. I have found that you seldom get a good finish with paint straight out of the can. Second you may try a quick tack coat then a full coat after that. This will give the paint something to grab on to and minimize the chances of the water based paint to run. That is something I have done in the past and it works well on slick surfaces with water based paints. Thanks again for all your videos.
.
Great video! I appreciate all the work you put into making this content!
Wow, last of the big time spenders!! Great videos, appreciate the work... cheers!!
Great video, be carful with the tack cloth because there can be a chemical reaction from the residue that found in the tack cloth and the paint you are using. Have a good one and keep up the great work. 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice job teaching and learning at the same time. Keep it up. Thanks
I’m not an expert but I’m a finish carpenter to is trying to improve my ability to stain and spray my work. One thing I see you doing that I did and when I changed it it really helped was using a wider fan. I would you a 510 for those. I found it easier to get a good consistent overlap which made the finish layout smoother.
Hope that helps. I also use a graco contractor II gun which I really like.
Great channel, post everything you do. Youre thinking, love it
Hey Richard
Couple things:
310 ok (especially for shellac) 410/12 for top coat.
1200 minimum for pressure with graco fflp imo
Keep distance about 12" and slow it down. (Hit close on edges only)
Also mixing shellac/thinner and water will mess up ur lines long term. A litlle solvent stays trapped and when u spray ur waterbased paints you may begin to see pinholes in ur top coat from thinner trying to escape. Best to keep ur topcoat sprayer dedicated to waterbased.
Thx for all ur help with the carpentry you've tought me alot👊
Robert Adam thank you! Makes sense to me, I will try it out!
Exactly what i was thinkin!!
Great comment. Thanks for sharing
You're doing it right, sanding between all coats and tacking. One suggestion is to spray the edges of the door first and you will avoid getting a fog or mist of paint on the face.
I like the video bro. The oil base looks really good. Maybe it's just my ph. But.looks like it put a good finish on. But I'm with u. I h8 oil much rather go with the close second Emerald latex. Looks good an it's quick and easy. Thanks for the video bro. U do good work. I've been doing this stuff 20 years. And I like it, I've even learned a couple things watching. So keep up the good work, and keep making that money dogg!
loving those b-roll drone shots, nice work
I really enjoy watching your videos, I enjoy doing DIY project and you can always use extra tools in your toolbox. Thank you for the added tools and advice you provide. Great job! I look forward to move posts from you!
I've got a few tips:
1. First scuff with 400 grit and wipe with tack cloth followed by a wipe down with solvent based deglosser.
2. I like cover stain as a bond coat, to me it seems like it sands better.
3. Lay the doors down on some horses to spray, this helps the paint lay down vs hanging.
4. IMO Properly prepared Oil based alkyd with the right amounts of penetrol and thinner will always provide a nicer finish than any hybrids, even with extenders in them.
5. I usually hit my doors with one light flash coat followed by a nice heavier wet coat
It will at first have an orange peel look. I thought this same thing when I started. Your doing fine. Just keep experimenting with different paints in your area. The temp can definitely have an effect.
I knew a paint and body shop owner that could not get the finish he wanted with house painters, they all had orange peel!
So he brought in his corvett guy and he put a car finish on the cabinets by fiberglassing the doors and frames!
They were sanded in between coats and did a final wet sanding to get a slick finish!
I think he paid more for the finish of the cabinets than he did for the build! But he was happy!
On my last build I used the green fflp tip with Benjamin Moore Advance. It has it's own primer as well. Be careful not to get too close or it hangs and sags. Levels great but it's the slowest drying waterborne alkyd out there.
been using a graco 390 for few years. defiantly would recommend for someone getting into airless spraying
Hello, I`m from Spain , I`ve had tried a lot to have a good finishing with different sprayers and materials. Basicly the secret is to get the right pressure, right thinning and the right hand speed movement. HVLP is great but slowly , airmix is the better sprayer. Thanks for your videos
If you use an extender it will increase drying time and give the paint time to level out. Using an extender instead of water doesn't compromise the integrity of the paint.
Thanks for your content, good job.
Nick the painter
You got way better at spraying doors! Nice job
I guess using the finish tip definitely makes the difference. Thankyou great video
Thànkyou man.I learning how to spray and it helps watching you videos
I'm loving emerald, been using it for 6 months now!
Hi, this is a well done video. I am a professional painter from Canada so we don't have to deal with 107-degree temps :) I use may sprayers for quite a few jobs and although the Graco RAC X Fine Finish Low-Pressure tips allow for a finer finish with an airless it is almost impossible to get a super flat and smooth finish. Even at 600 psi, you will still get that orange peel finish that you referred to. I use my Graco hvlp unit for most trim and cabinet jobs. With less pressure, the paint will flatten better for you. I also us Benjamin Moore Advance, it is a waterborne alkyd, it is pretty well the only paint that I have found that flattens like an oil. (if you are committed to using the airless, play with the pressure and maybe be a little further from your work surface, it might help with the finished look) Hope that this gives you some ideas on how to improve that finish, also, as mentioned by a previous responder, experience and trial and error is the best teacher.
I use the Emerald Urethane almost exclusively now and it sprays on beautifully. Stick with that and you will be very happy.
Emerald urethane over primer is your go to. It self levels wonderfully if you put it on wet enough. It looks like your pressure could have been a bit lower. 😊. Nice job overall and thank you.
Nice work. Interesting to see a carpenter painting. Good job!! I am a carpenter, and we never paint :-)
i've been painting for 10 years or something, and i used Emerald for the first time last year when it came out. I sprayed all my doors and brushed out all my trim, and both have a glass like smoothness to them. Its also supposed to be the hardest paint for trim out there so it should last a long time (we'll see about that). I did notice that Emerald Satin is a TRUE satin and has almost no shine, unlike some of the other trim paints satin which seem like semi gloss (like Ben Moore Advance). Thanks for doing the comparison!
Thanks for the comment. I too noticed that about the advance satin from BM. I still love that paint though.
Oil all the way. On my oil base airless i use the fine mesh filters in the gun and pump filter for oil-base enamels along with the fine finish tips instead of the filters that come standard. Lightly Thin with naphtha to speed up drying and so that it hangs on instead of drips. Silky smooth finish. #graco #love
Thanks for the amazing tips and job
I love your videos!! you're soo humble!
Pro industrial alkyd urethane from Sherwin gives you the best trim finish looks and feels like oil but with out the hassle.
I like to use a FFLP tip with pro classic on trim. Also try bumping up the psi if it isn't laying out flat. The guy saying it's not meant to be sprayed is completely wrong.
Tons of information in this video and in the comments. Thanks
What sprayer do you recommend for stains or clear coats like spar polyurethane? I love my cordless Graco pro sprayer for paint but I'm looking to be able to save time doing things like tables.
I have been waiting for 35 years. We always separate our doors To another area after we spray them because of the Overspray dust flying in the air. It will land on your new finished door and make it rough. Thank you for your videos
35 years painting
great video I like the sprayer to, Emerald and pro ind. are the same paint the emerald covers better try thinning the emerald with water i like how your are not afraid to ask for suggestions on what you could improve on, that shows some one who cares and with that attitude you will go far , I can teach you to do a task but I can't teach you to CARE
I think tack cloths are wax impregnated cheese cloth. Just found your channel and I'm enjoying it. I did a major kitchen reno when my son was 2. He's 23 now. Maybe I will finish the moldings one day....
I painted for 25 years. Only get so good up to the point where your equipment can not do better. After a few years experience buy a quality sprayer like the kremlin with high end gun like excite 150. Then you will master the products as you choose and use them. Graco will only take you so far. Cheers
Emerald is one the best products for sure we use it on all our cabinets. I don't quite like that Graco sprayer the pressure varries to much. I prefer Titan 655 Graco 395 ultra. I adjust my pressure as needed with fflp 410 tip. Good video 👍
another informative video loved it how much does it take to clean sprayer if one you have time would like to see that thank you
Richard, I like you have been looking for the ultimate smooth finish using a airless. Here is what I found works for me. Airless set at 1300psi Tip FFLP 310 or you could use a FFLP 308 which would give a little smoother finish. Paint PPG Breakthrough satin with 1 cap of floetrol added to each quart and mixed for 1 minute. Spraying technique looks good moving quicker helps. I also found that if you spray the piece horizontal and not vertical it lays down better and has no chance to sag or run on you. PPG Breakthrough dies in 15 minuets in heat of 105 degrees, watch out for blisters in the paint with those temps. Hope this helps.
Great advice! Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.
Best advice so far.
Michael Rose that floetrol is excellent stuff. Used on hand painted kitchen cupboards
I have been trying different options lately painting built-ins...I use a fugi mini mite 5 in lieu of the airless. Have had some luck with ppg breakthrough, I would say 95% shop finish. I spray onsite mainly. Primer and sanding is key with that product. Breakthrough does best with thin coats...and it drys very fast and feels hard to the touch. I can get 3 coats in one day if necessary. If you like oil, I think you would like BM advanced. It lays down similar to oil and hides flaws better than breakthrough. But it takes forever to dry/cure. The time btw coats is its main downfall. Another thing I noticed...you can’t judge breakthrough or advanced while they are wet. They always look like crap wet, I have stressed myself out many times looking at wet paint between coats.
It’s all about Tip, Pressure, Distance, Technique and speed. Select the tip for the job, for this work you need the FFLP tip from Graco, fine finish tips all end in an even number 08, 10, 12, 14 etc, this is the size of the tip in thousands of an inch, the first number 2, 3, 4, 5 etc ate the angle in degrees, 20 degrees, 30 degrees etc. If you want to know what size fan that should give you, then double that first number and that should be your fan width in inches, if it’s wider than that your too far away, narrower is too close (distance). Setting your pressure just takes a sharp eye, after priming the pump turn the pressure to approx 1/3rd of its pressure, take the gun with tip and guard attached, remove the safety for the trigger and spray a stripe on some card or other waste flat item, if you can see stripes in the paint pattern then increase the pressure until they disappear , that’s your set pressure. If the pressure is too high you will create lots of overspray and vastly increase your chance of getting creators or pitting in the finish.
Technique, even stripes are essential, after you lay down the first stripe, use the edge of that stripe as a guide for where the centre of the next stripe begins so you have a 50-50 overlap (gives depth and coverage of the paint), then when you do the edges, you still work with a wet edge all round.
If you watch the way the paint lays down from the gun you will see how it builds and flows out, keep your speed so you get a nice even coat but not so much as to create runs. If the coating is going on too thick then speed up a little if too thin then slow down but if you are having to move too fast to be comfortable then come down a size on your tip (if using a “412” then come down to a 410 or 408).
Learned a lot from your videos. Thanks! Can you recommend a sprayer that is good for small projects such as painting the door and cabinets at home?
Hey I have painted for 35 years and think you’re doing an excellent job. Only one coat of primer is needed. It is not a topcoat or a color coat it is merely primer, something for the paint to hang on to. On another note you do not sand those doors to smooth them out but rather to give them tooth as they say in the painting business.
Great tip on standing the doors out from the wall by use of a paint stick.
Thanks! I have not seen you in a while! Thanks for stopping by!
Dude your a freakin beast !! I have learned so
much from you! Thanks you are a great teacher!
I sprayed lacquer finishes on my builds for many years in SoCal where it can be hot and dry. The way I found to get the best finish is to do a crisscross pattern. Spray all the edges first of course and then spray the flat part in one direction first and the the other (vertical and then horizontal if you will) being careful not to overdue it. A bit lighter pass than if you were just doing one pass. Hope that helps. Good videos :)
Would like to see a video on cleaning steps needed for your sprayer.
Second that.
Lol 😅😆 clean that shit
@@alexandergonsales9514 Then show us!
There is plenty of other videos on CZcams on how to clean your sprayer. Super simple and easy.
I wish I had some helpful tips to provide, unfortunately I'm a novice when it comes to paint spraying. I will say thank you for your dedication to detail I look forward to seeing more videos that I can learn from.
Given that you spray mostly trim and require a fine finish. Did you consider an HVLP turbine unit like a Fuji? Great for cabinets and furniture.
I use a Greco 635tip @ 2800psi, contractor series gun with a 42 inch Titan spray Pole with a swivel. For the sprayer I use a Greco 7500. Fine finish filters in the gun and the sprayer. Running 2 150 foot lines. Two guys 1500 doors a day..
I have a question...
Can you spray that Kilz through an airless sprayer or what needs to be done?
BTW very informative videos awesome keep it up!
TIA.
The aerial shots!
If you will look at the specs on the pro classic waterborne paint you would see they recommend using a .010 to .014 tip at 2000 psi for fine finish work. It's a good idea to read the application recommendations on the paint you are using for a better result. I use a 311 tip for that on cabinets.
Another thing to consider you are spraying in a garage with high humidity and no ventilation whatsoever, advance and proclassic are meant to be sprayed in an area with very low humidity, in a room at around 72 degrees proclassic if sprayed correctly should look like oil very smooth finish, but also your prep and spray method has alot to do with it as well
I just got the graco 395 ultra, and love it. I'm curious about the hopper accessory. Looks handy for some projects
You are good carpenter!
Love the channel! I would have liked to see the finish from a side angle in the light to compare how smooth the were. Ill take your word on the emerald though.
Man.. great video. I'd really like to know what it all looks like with a second coat, and especially what your findings were on maybe spraying PC Alkyd in the future, but slowing up. THanks man. Keep going. Finish carp down in GA who sprays a bit of his own stuff down as well.
I know what your doing wrong you need to stop for a BEER or 2 before coats then the last coat looks amassing that coming for an Ozzy down under and the jobs not done right if there's no blowy stuck in your paint finish it adds character :) keep them coming.
As a high end commercial and residential painter, a FFLP (Fine Finish Low Pressure) tip is a great investment to achieve a fine finish.
An important step in the painting process is to read the dry time and cure times. Dry time is usually 20 to 45 min depending on temps and humidity. Cure times can be 24 - 72 hours.
Another step is to tint your primer to get better coverage.
As an experienced painter, 1 finish coat doesn’t cut it. 1- 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of finish is standard. 2 coats of finish paint will allow the sheen to build correctly and evenly.
Well, for one you do corners and angles first. Dilute the paint well, the indications on the pot are usually spot on, so see how much % the manufacturer recommends.
Have a piece of cardboard and test the pattern, if you keep getting trails on the edges, increase the pressure a little.
It's best to always spray on the lowest pressure that works. So just gradually go up in pressure.
Then if you're getting runs, you're not moving fast enough, and if you get skips, you're going too fast ^^
To make a super smooth job, I've always use a nice bristle brush and went over up and down lightly, just like doing polyurethane. try it.
As far as your spraying technique goes your good. You were overlapping each run at 50% but the only advice I have to give just going by experience is you want to spray your sides first so that you can then spray over that overspray you get on the facings. Also turn your pressure up on your rig anywhere between 1000 to 1500 psi maybe even higher depending on what you are spraying. You may have been using a FFLP 310 tip and thats why you had your pressure so low just trying to experiment with spraying those doors. Turning the psi up allows you to keep a good consistent and even spray pattern and it loads the paint on much better. I understand everyone is different in the way we do things so with that being said do what you are comfortable doing. Hope this helps. Keep up the good work.
Try a 312 tip and bump up the preasure your not getting enough paint on the doors. Theyres a happy medium with proclassic dont be scared to lay it on!
Heat /Temp/Humidity/Product used. Then get in your groove. I have been finishing for over 40 years. One of the few master finish carpenters that still do that sort of thing. Oil Benjamin moore Impervo always gives me the best results. Looks like glass when it is put down the right way. I learned from ole timers years ago with oil and all other latex semi's. One Direction with the brush and feather once. Prime with BM oil as well. Sand lightly between coats. For latex the Benjamin Moore ADVANCE® Interior Paint great finish. Try it out fantastic. 1/8" finish roller 4" then feather with 3" purdy. I do doors like this as well. It gives it that ole time charm and classic finish instead of a sprayed perfect look. Best man hope it helps. You stuff looks great as usual.
I'd love to use Advance but read that it needs to dry 16 hours between coats. What material is the 1/8" finish roller?
@@vitex1231 Finish Roller small 4 inch. Sure Line used to make them. 16 hours at least. High Humiidty figure 5 days. It takes Latex 30 Days to cure. Oil one Week. Advance High Gloss. Interior Exterior
How do you cleaning your spray after BIN primer? Because BIN primer drying fast 5-10 minutes?
Hey man long time subscriber I’m a cabinetmaker in Alabama ,,I thought about this video and figured I would share my experience we use a graco airless as well sprayed SW emerald for years wanted to recommend a paint for you to try Milesi it’s a total game changer it’s also water base if you can find a dealer around you should definitely give it a shot!!
Also use the bin primer with it as well