If you liked that one make sure you get the more in-depth one where I draw a picture on the airflow on the back! Here is the link: czcams.com/video/IT_5HGe4q-k/video.html Happy Camping! Cheers, Darren
This is the best rv systems diagnostic channel on CZcams! No guessing, no parts swapping in hopes it's fixed. Clear and simple diagnostics that lead to the failed component. Great job, keep'em coming!
Thanks for watching, I'll keep making them. Been kind of busy with customers lately but it should slow down a bit where I can put more quality in my videos.
Please help .I got a new board and heating element. Checked all fuses and breaker is good .3 service calls later my check light is flashing and it won't work unless I run it on propane .what am I missing.
Everything is weird, so it won't work on ac ,but clicks over to propane. I need a picture of wires hooked up to control board to make sure all of them are right, but I can't find one.the only thing I know is new element and maybe front panel inside r.v
I have a Norcold N811. The cooling coil leaked. Ordered a replacement, swapped it out no big deal. Been a Mechanic/ Electrician for 30+ yrs. No issues with Function before cooling coil problem. Turned the unit off, after the new coil arrived I changed it over, put it all back together, no issues. Works fine except it will not run on Electric now. Checked Heating Element 46.5 ohms. According to info looked up that’s perfect. Ordered replacement boards 4 to be exact. Also New Optical board, purchase power is steady 115.7vac up to 118.4vac. Burner controls light every time, after initial startup, green indicator comes on steady and then the LP controls take over, while yellow gas ind. comes on steady, green ind. flashes three times. That gets it good and cold but it acts like it is not seeing 115 vac at all. All new boards do exactly the same start up. I even marked the connections with a red marker to keep from forgetting the proper wiring locations, even though it’s kind of self explanatory. So I’ve looked and researched for over a month and half now but nobody has anymore helpful tips. I took the limit switch out of play, and installed jumper. Thermistor is the only thing not replaced besides fan which works well. I like your videos BTW.
hey Darren, thanks for the time and effort you put into your video's. I live in my RV full time (many many hundreds of miles away from your mobile service, I might add) - having a pro walk me thru these troubleshooting processes is just amazing. I've learned so much!
I had a RARE problem but thanks for the video in help figuring it out. My refrigerator would work on power sometimes then it would stop only to minutes later switch back. Mine was the receptacle with the slice termination blades. Where you lay the wire between to pinch blades. I would get power until a jolt of some kind would knock something lose in the receptacle. I wouldn't have power so I'd unplug the cord and check the receptacle and then have power. I guess everytime I touched it it would trigger the fault off or on. I scratched my head and tested for 2 days until I figured it out. I changed the cheap receptacle to a standard one now everything is fine. I have never seen a receptacle like it really. I wonder what village in China they found it in !! Thanks a bunch for the video though. You are very kind to show people for free on here so I liked and subscribed. Least I could do.
Thanks for this video. Very clearly done. I had an electrical problem and I followed the steps you show. It lead to the conclusion that the heating element was bad. I replaced the heating element and all is well. I knew nothing about refrigeration before watching your video. Thank you so much.
A great instructional video! I used to think when I was going to use my University Physics I & II while I was in college. Well, here I am beginning to remember all those classes by watching the video. This is so much better than calling useless RV repair guys who charge you so much for not accomplishing much and show up totally unprepared. I really like the outline, the breakdown of potential issues and a great summary in the end.
This was a wonderful tutorial. My husband and I do not know much about propane appliances except of course for our bbq. Last week our dometic propane fridge in the rv stopped working on propane. We left it on electric power for the week and thought we would have to get the rv company to travel to our campground to service it. After watching your video, we tapped the silver cylinder then used our air compressor to clear out the debris, now it is working fine. Thank you sooooo much!
Curious to know what you tapped.. My heating system is all black piping rather than silver. Can you describe which part you tapped? Thinking I may have a blockage of some sort in the system if cooling does not occur with gas or 120 V power. Still troubleshooting reason for now cooling.
Great video! One suggestion, use the system neutral, rather than ground, for testing, it's the return for the system, not ground. You can have an open neutral and still read 120 volts to ground.
Thank you very much for your video. We have an Atwood frig. We had a power outage a couple of days ago. We noticed frozen food starting to thaw. The control box you show and mine are similar. I did all the tests and was very frustrated as we live in our rv and I couldn’t figure out what to do. I opened the control box and low and behold I found the 3 amp fuse had blown. I work away from home and luckily I decided to come home for Father’s Day and noticed a problem. My lovely wife did not suspect anything wrong and definitely would not have figured out what to do. I would have had to call a technician for how many hundreds to find out it was just a fuse. Thank you again for your video.
Man I learn a lot from every one of your videos. I want to say "THANKS" for taking the time to teach me and others how to diagnose and figure out what could be the problem.
WoW!! am I ever so glad I stumbled across this one. You, my man, knows exactly what your doing after watching a couple of your informative vids here and my utmost respect goes out for that alone! I guess I'm an RV owner now, if a 1980 Fleetwood Sunset counts? I bought it on Sunday July 4th. It's been well preserved, 36,000 original, and put away (improperly, somebody shrink-wrapped the entire thing and stuck it out under an out buildings eve.) for a long time. Now after getting it home, the fun begins!! I service consumer electronics and I'm also not a bad mechanic (only on my stuff) Amazingly, the elderly folks who owned this thing kept up everything interior wise, and in the glove is every Owners manual for everthing from the generator, refidge, microwave, 9" color tv w/ VCR, down to the aftermarket cruise control, and even the _Kraco_ AM/FM/Cassette radio w/ locking FF!! lolz (which works fine & wired to 4 factory Fleetwood coaxial spkrs)...The Kraco just got replaced today w/ a 7" touchscreen GPS/Stereo/MP3 system, But now down in the basement...lol, they neglected any of the maintainence other than having the fluids, tires changed. I spent almost 90 minutes in the basement (on the ground) with a steam pressure washer wand knocking out 1/2 inch of grease buildup all over everything down under. I bet that RV lost 100lbs. Mud daubers nests, hornets nests, spider webs, dirt, oil and gawd knows what else Well worth the effort, looks 100% better today, I can even read signs, ID plates, and stickers again. has an "Onan 4.0 BFA" 4kv generator under there (starter relay needs replaced, or it's froze), also a propane tank, water tank, sewage tank and 2 thirty-sum-gallon gasoline tanks ...SO I guess It's really a tank?? somebody bought a lot of options with it I think. I'll say 97% of it all works, I have a couple issues, and my refrigerator is one of them, it's one of those gas or electric one's (No "Auto" on switch, just "gas" or "elec").... when first plugged into 30 amp@ my houses breaker box, could have swore the fridge light worked when I opened at first, I thought that the freezer part was starting to cool, but not the bottom yet...I may be hasty on that thought. But now I have nothing @ the fridge. I'm great with troubleshooting, but I have to see the layout, never messed with RV's so finding locations for things right now is the mission. Letting ya know now my friend, I may be bugging ya with inane questions, SO thanks in advance ;) Already at your Manuals site.... fookin Genius right there now ~PeaasOut PS: Still have know idea what motor is in this, I'm leaning towards a 440, I do know it's all Chrylser under there (theres a Model plate), and I may have to replace the transmissions pan gasket, and still no idea what transmission they put in it either. I'll figure it out....All in due time... Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Just a quick note to say, "Thank You." Your troubleshooting techniques were spot on. My Norcold had been giving me issues from the moment I purchased the RV. Your expertise narrowed the area I needed to troubleshoot. Turns out I had a bad board. Ordered up a new boards and installed. My fridge is working like a champ on AC now....no problem. Many thanks!!
I watch your converter replacement and the problems with the refrigerator not running on 110. It was the heating element, replaced it after watching your videos. We are up and running and mommy’s happy. Lol thanks for the videos they were great help.
Excellent video ! I mark the connectors and take a picture of the connectors/board before disconnecting anything in case I forget how it was hooked up, or if I have to delay reassembling it for some reason. I work in electronics too and appreciate the details. Thanks again !
Thanks for the info,I had my fridge rebuilt and it only worked on lp,I called the company back bit no answer after paying 2700. This was 1 year ago, so today I started thinking it's gotta be something easy so I found your video and it walked me step by step and I found a blown fuse. Thank you very much for helping me out and saving me a butt load of money.hopefully this fuse fixes my problem
You are the man. Mahalo for your very informative trouble shooting steps to take. Very customer friendly CZcams Video. My RV is rather OLD 1993 and I try to tackle troubles DIY.
This video along with a few of your others taught me how to troubleshoot my issue. I wanted to thank you for the needed help. My refrigerator was running on LP gas only. Your video showed me how to trace the power and it turned out to be a fuse on the board.
Thorough video abs easy to follow. I employed all your tests and found no power output from board. However before replacing the $100+ lower/outside board I bought the upper/inside board and boom; problem resolved for under $30. Just wanted to comment since it wasn’t mentioned in your video and I read online lots of people replace lower board and it doesn’t resolve issue.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I followed everything you said, so I thought. I pulled off the cover and checked the fuse. Fuse is good. I started following wires to see if something was disconnected. There was the culprit- it was not plugged in. Ok so I missed one of the first steps. Thanks again!
Thanks for your videos of instruction. Had that same problem. Ordered the heating element and installed it. Works flawlessly now.. Greatly appreciated. Saved me alot of money...
He is doing well on his description and use of the VOM, I am being picky but the control board has to have 12 v DC to operate either on AC or LP , the board has a 12 v fuse as well and your first thing to check is the 12 V. My experience as an electrician led me to find the 12 v wires were broken just under the wheel well. The owner replaced the lower control and was going to replace the fridge. Quick check of the fuse and turns out the fuse also is hooked to a light where it was burnt off under the light probably from a loose wire nut. Either the light was added or the wiring crew did this original. Good video but to a DIY you could get the feeling the 120v AC is enough to trouble shoot.
Thanks for the lessons. Almost brand new Dometic refrigerator had the lower board out per your diagnostic instruction. Replaced it and it works great!! Thank you😊
Agian thank you so much for your videos you explain everything in detail and it helps so much I'm a first time rv owner and we live full time in our coachman and we are blue collar so it helps so much to know how to try and fix what we can. Thank you.
Fantastic video. I have been trying to figure out how to fix my RM2611 Dometic unit. Now thanks to you, I have something to look for. BTW, looked on your website and did not find my manual. Bummer, but I will keep looking for one in line. Thanks again!!!!
These videos have been extremely helpful to me. I have learned quite a bit about my RV fridge as a result. I think I have successfully diagnosed my fridge issue (heating element) but I won't know for sure until the part arrives...
Replacing the heating element fixed the refrigerator. It took about 30 minutes from start to finish. It was very straight forward...of course that was after watching Darren's video.
Hi Guys, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
Thanks for a great video. I now know what to look for. PS I live in graham and go to sequim about once a month so I know where I’ll be going if I have problems over my head. Thanks
Thanks for this! Was a little confusing at first, but I learned that I was only get 4v to the element wires. Obviously had to be 120v. Got a new Dinosaur Electronics board in & electric works on the fridge again! Thank you 👍🏻
Hi Darren checked all ur diagnostics as per ur video not working on AC but OK on LPG, great stuff...all my tests gave me ur results but still not working on AC. ps was working fine last week lol....I have it set on auto & have power ect. what am I still miising??
Darren, great video and troubleshooting. Any chance you have done a video on the other failure mode? (works on electric but not propane)? I have checked all the basics, have 12 VDC, have a nice blue flame front with no startup issues, blown out rust from the flue and burner tube, but still have weak cooling on propane. You do great work on CZcams, please keep it up!
Sounds like a short. Check your wires and their connection points. Make sure they are not touching anywhere they shouldn't be. Make sure they are still in good shape. If you have moved wires around already trying to fix things, make sure that they are all correctly connected. Positive to positive and neg to neg. This happened to me once, and I had mixed up my connections on my fans.i kept blowing the 5 amp fuse. Hope that helps
Great in depth video!!! Thank you!!! I thought it was the mother board because I'm not getting 120v from the other side of the mother board.. Thank you I'll let you know in 2 weeks if that was the issue 😉
YAAAA !!!! I worked one step at a time up until the step where I pulled the heater cables off the board and read 120 volts. Then i plugged the cables back in and now the fridge works !!!! Just a loose connection Im guessing
Thank you!! My Dometic RM2862 fridge suddenly stopped working with AC and only worked on propane. Initially my daughter discovered the heating element had a melted spot on the black plastic, so she replaced it. Still wouldn't run on AC. After two weeks, I ordered a Fluke 323 Clamp Meter. Daughter had given up on troubleshooting my fridge any further. When the meter arrived, the first thing I did was check the 5amp fuse with the Fluke. 120 volts read on left side of the 5amp fuse, but zip nada on the other side. Bought some 5amp fuses, replaced the burned out fuse and wellah! It works perfectly on AC now. I was ecstatic! My daughter pretty much said nothing. LOL
Helping a friend with his Norcold 6162 single door auto control gas/electric. Turned out it was the 15amp fuse. Looking at it looked ok but with the continuity check it failed. I think its cooling now but I told him to put some water in an ice tray to see if it freezes up tonight and the box for food gets down to around 40. He got a new board but didn't install it yet
Thank you very very much after watching this video i did exactly like in your drawing and now my fride is working perfect , my fridge had a big ventilation problem , thank youu☺
I am not a the leave a comment kind at all up to this point. this will be the first. Ever! Your video is a life saver, you put out great information. thank you
Thanks Daniel, I have a few more scheduled to cut and upload over the next few weeks! Awning R&R, Bathroom Vent R&R, Furnace Gas valve diagnose, KwiKee step diagnose. Stay tuned... I appreciate you! Cheers, Darren
Great video on diagnostics. I'm looking to see if you did one on a Norcold but I got the basics from this which I'm guessing applies to all or most RV fridges. Our's worked fine on both AC & LP until we put it in storage for 3 weeks. After that the AC mode didn't work. Luckily the LP mode is.
Enough similarities between the theory of operation. More on my refrigerator play list here: czcams.com/play/PLk44vSl27TRBtE1CmMkPb02ayS5H1sKbB.html If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Hi Toyotaman29, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
We were able to replace the heating element thanks to you, but that wasnt it. Need the video that explains weather it is the upper or lower circuit board link. THANK YOU!!!!!
Ohm's Law: E = I x R where E=voltage in volts (V), I=current in amperes (A), R=resistance in ohms (Ω). In the example of this video, the measured values satisfy Ohm's Law in that 121 V = 2.84 A x 42.3 Ω. Power can be calculated as I x I x R (i.e. I squared x R) or as V x I. Again, in the video example, I x I x R = 2.84 A x 2.84 A x 42.3 Ω = 341 W or by the other formula V x I = 121 V * 2.84 A = 343 W. Both values are within 5% of the nominal 325 Watts specified. As a lifelong electrical safety professional I'd like to put in a plug (no pun intended) for using a bit of care and attention around 120V AC. It can and will harm or kill you if you let it. Get help and/or instruction from a knowledgeable person if you don't KNOW what you're doing.
My issue is that it runs on electric but will randomly quit. I can turn it off and on and it will work again but I never know when it will go out again. I checked the fuse in the back, it was good but I put in a new one anyway. I also cleaned out the back really well. Inside the lights both glow the yellow so I don't always catch it right away. Last 5th wheel had a red light if it went out (nice). I've been just making sure I also have the gas on and value open to keep it going but since I like to keep the frig on all summer even when we're not using it it is very using too much lp gas to do this.
Your video was very helpful. I have no 120 coming out towards my igniter I think that's what you called it on the electricity side of the board. So I'm assuming I need a new motherboard or whatever you call that thing. Refuses are good I followed all the instructions you gave I've got 120 each side of the fuse on the board. Like I said nothing going to the electrode that boils the juices to get my refrigerator flowing. What's my next step what do I go you said you had some more videos on that how to change the motherboard
I have a Dometic that runs great on the heat element with shore power. However, recently when I switched to the inverter, it was acting like its shorting. It will pop the GFCI in line. When you turn the refer back to gas it stops. I didn't find any shorts when I tested the power cable with a meter. It has ran just fine off this inverter for 4 years. Then, everything else running off the inverter has no issues. I'm all open for testing suggestions.
Awesome troubleshooting! Wished I saw this when I was full time RVing. Thanks for keeping it simple, when your on the road it feels good that you have the capability to keep the family going. Hoorah! Go Navy!
Love your videos! Your detailed explanations are extremely helpful. My 4 year old Dometic RM1350SL was working perfectly staying between 34-40 degrees F (depending on outside temps) for the first 2 wks of our summer trip. Suddenly the other day, the fridge started warming up even though the operation seemed normal (heat source on, 4 fans working, cycling on-off as usual, etc.). By the end of the day, it was up to 60 degrees in fridge and 45 in freezer. I reset it several times. Changed it to LP. Checked power to all components. RV is level. No smell or yellow leaks. Everything seems to be as it should, but it is actively warming up the freezer and fridge instead of cooling them. Called Dometic and they said I probably need a new cooling unit. Question: How could a 4 year old fridge go from working exceptionally well to needing a cooling unit in 1 day? Is there something else I could try first before spending $2500 on a new colling unit? We are currently in MA where the weather only gets up to 80 degrees and the fridge is in the shade all day. Any advice would be appreciated.
This is a great video as I have exactly this problem. After several hours of shore power, no cooling. CHanged to propane with cooling in a few hours. Other vids were not this detailed, or stopped short of explaining the heating element, checking its resistance for 80 ohms +/- 10%, and the board that should be 120 V at the prongs where the heating element plugs on. I appear to have to issues: 1) my board does not supply 120 V to the pins that feed the heating element wires and 2) my heating element wires have 8 ohms of resistance rather than 72-88 as indicated in the manual. Looks like I might be in for a new board and heating element. Do you have any videos for replacing each?
I like your presentations, Thank you! I may have an intermittent issue because it works on AC then it doesn't. I have a new element but haven't put it in because all the sudden it stopped working. I disconnected all AC & DC and let it sit for an hour for a factory reset. I reconnected and low and behold its on. Propane or AC it hits 34 degrees. I recently did install an extra fan in the chimney and one on the interior box that attaches to the fins with alligator clips. Are the alligator clips causing any interference???
Finally. In depth analysis for my refrigerator. Awesome work. Thanks for making the effort Darren. It is appreciated more than you know.
If you liked that one make sure you get the more in-depth one where I draw a picture on the airflow on the back!
Here is the link: czcams.com/video/IT_5HGe4q-k/video.html
Happy Camping!
Cheers,
Darren
Does 120 need to be coming from both j7 and j8 or just one side
This is the best rv systems diagnostic channel on CZcams! No guessing, no parts swapping in hopes it's fixed. Clear and simple diagnostics that lead to the failed component. Great job, keep'em coming!
Thanks for watching, I'll keep making them. Been kind of busy with customers lately but it should slow down a bit where I can put more quality in my videos.
Please help .I got a new board and heating element. Checked all fuses and breaker is good .3 service calls later my check light is flashing and it won't work unless I run it on propane .what am I missing.
@@yappinyorkies did you check for 120V at the board?
@@larryreno8293 yes
Everything is weird, so it won't work on ac ,but clicks over to propane. I need a picture of wires hooked up to control board to make sure all of them are right, but I can't find one.the only thing I know is new element and maybe front panel inside r.v
I have a Norcold N811. The cooling coil leaked. Ordered a replacement, swapped it out no big deal. Been a Mechanic/ Electrician for 30+ yrs. No issues with Function before cooling coil problem. Turned the unit off, after the new coil arrived I changed it over, put it all back together, no issues. Works fine except it will not run on Electric now. Checked Heating Element 46.5 ohms. According to info looked up that’s perfect. Ordered replacement boards 4 to be exact. Also New Optical board, purchase power is steady 115.7vac up to 118.4vac. Burner controls light every time, after initial startup, green indicator comes on steady and then the LP controls take over, while yellow gas ind. comes on steady, green ind. flashes three times. That gets it good and cold but it acts like it is not seeing 115 vac at all. All new boards do exactly the same start up. I even marked the connections with a red marker to keep from forgetting the proper wiring locations, even though it’s kind of self explanatory. So I’ve looked and researched for over a month and half now but nobody has anymore helpful tips. I took the limit switch out of play, and installed jumper. Thermistor is the only thing not replaced besides fan which works well. I like your videos BTW.
hey Darren, thanks for the time and effort you put into your video's. I live in my RV full time (many many hundreds of miles away from your mobile service, I might add) - having a pro walk me thru these troubleshooting processes is just amazing. I've learned so much!
M😢😢⁰😅jl🎉😢😢🎉🎉 6:23 😢😮7t🎉I 😅8🎉k
I had a RARE problem but thanks for the video in help figuring it out. My refrigerator would work on power sometimes then it would stop only to minutes later switch back. Mine was the receptacle with the slice termination blades. Where you lay the wire between to pinch blades. I would get power until a jolt of some kind would knock something lose in the receptacle. I wouldn't have power so I'd unplug the cord and check the receptacle and then have power. I guess everytime I touched it it would trigger the fault off or on. I scratched my head and tested for 2 days until I figured it out. I changed the cheap receptacle to a standard one now everything is fine. I have never seen a receptacle like it really. I wonder what village in China they found it in !! Thanks a bunch for the video though. You are very kind to show people for free on here so I liked and subscribed. Least I could do.
Thanks for this video. Very clearly done. I had an electrical problem and I followed the steps you show. It lead to the conclusion that the heating element was bad. I replaced the heating element and all is well. I knew nothing about refrigeration before watching your video. Thank you so much.
A great instructional video! I used to think when I was going to use my University Physics I & II while I was in college. Well, here I am beginning to remember all those classes by watching the video. This is so much better than calling useless RV repair guys who charge you so much for not accomplishing much and show up totally unprepared. I really like the outline, the breakdown of potential issues and a great summary in the end.
This was a wonderful tutorial. My husband and I do not know much about propane appliances except of course for our bbq. Last week our dometic propane fridge in the rv stopped working on propane. We left it on electric power for the week and thought we would have to get the rv company to travel to our campground to service it. After watching your video, we tapped the silver cylinder then used our air compressor to clear out the debris, now it is working fine. Thank you sooooo much!
Curious to know what you tapped.. My heating system is all black piping rather than silver. Can you describe which part you tapped? Thinking I may have a blockage of some sort in the system if cooling does not occur with gas or 120 V power. Still troubleshooting reason for now cooling.
Great video! One suggestion, use the system neutral, rather than ground, for testing, it's the return for the system, not ground. You can have an open neutral and still read 120 volts to ground.
Thank you very much for your video. We have an Atwood frig. We had a power outage a couple of days ago. We noticed frozen food starting to thaw. The control box you show and mine are similar. I did all the tests and was very frustrated as we live in our rv and I couldn’t figure out what to do. I opened the control box and low and behold I found the 3 amp fuse had blown. I work away from home and luckily I decided to come home for Father’s Day and noticed a problem. My lovely wife did not suspect anything wrong and definitely would not have figured out what to do. I would have had to call a technician for how many hundreds to find out it was just a fuse. Thank you again for your video.
Man I learn a lot from every one of your videos. I want to say "THANKS" for taking the time to teach me and others how to diagnose and figure out what could be the problem.
WoW!! am I ever so glad I stumbled across this one. You, my man, knows exactly what your doing after watching a couple of your informative vids here and my utmost respect goes out for that alone!
I guess I'm an RV owner now, if a 1980 Fleetwood Sunset counts? I bought it on Sunday July 4th. It's been well preserved, 36,000 original, and put away (improperly, somebody shrink-wrapped the entire thing and stuck it out under an out buildings eve.) for a long time. Now after getting it home, the fun begins!!
I service consumer electronics and I'm also not a bad mechanic (only on my stuff) Amazingly, the elderly folks who owned this thing kept up everything interior wise, and in the glove is every Owners manual for everthing from the generator, refidge, microwave, 9" color tv w/ VCR, down to the aftermarket cruise control, and even the _Kraco_ AM/FM/Cassette radio w/ locking FF!! lolz (which works fine & wired to 4 factory Fleetwood coaxial spkrs)...The Kraco just got replaced today w/ a 7" touchscreen GPS/Stereo/MP3 system,
But now down in the basement...lol, they neglected any of the maintainence other than having the fluids, tires changed. I spent almost 90 minutes in the basement (on the ground) with a steam pressure washer wand knocking out 1/2 inch of grease buildup all over everything down under. I bet that RV lost 100lbs. Mud daubers nests, hornets nests, spider webs, dirt, oil and gawd knows what else
Well worth the effort, looks 100% better today, I can even read signs, ID plates, and stickers again. has an "Onan 4.0 BFA" 4kv generator under there (starter relay needs replaced, or it's froze), also a propane tank, water tank, sewage tank and 2 thirty-sum-gallon gasoline tanks ...SO I guess It's really a tank??
somebody bought a lot of options with it I think. I'll say 97% of it all works, I have a couple issues, and my refrigerator is one of them, it's one of those gas or electric one's (No "Auto" on switch, just "gas" or "elec").... when first plugged into 30 amp@ my houses breaker box, could have swore the fridge light worked when I opened at first, I thought that the freezer part was starting to cool, but not the bottom yet...I may be hasty on that thought. But now I have nothing @ the fridge. I'm great with troubleshooting, but I have to see the layout, never messed with RV's so finding locations for things right now is the mission. Letting ya know now my friend, I may be bugging ya with inane questions, SO thanks in advance ;)
Already at your Manuals site.... fookin Genius right there now
~PeaasOut
PS: Still have know idea what motor is in this, I'm leaning towards a 440, I do know it's all Chrylser under there (theres a Model plate), and I may have to replace the transmissions pan gasket, and still no idea what transmission they put in it either.
I'll figure it out....All in due time...
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Just a quick note to say, "Thank You." Your troubleshooting techniques were spot on. My Norcold had been giving me issues from the moment I purchased the RV. Your expertise narrowed the area I needed to troubleshoot. Turns out I had a bad board. Ordered up a new boards and installed. My fridge is working like a champ on AC now....no problem. Many thanks!!
I watch your converter replacement and the problems with the refrigerator not running on 110. It was the heating element, replaced it after watching your videos. We are up and running and mommy’s happy. Lol thanks for the videos they were great help.
Love the video. Thanks for taking the time. Excellent explanation of the diagnostic steps. I will now go and tackle my own malfunctioning fridge.
Darren thanks for all your help, and great guidance that you give us on our RVs. Please keep up with the good work, it is very much appreciated
Excellent video ! I mark the connectors and take a picture of the connectors/board before disconnecting anything in case I forget how it was hooked up, or if I have to delay reassembling it for some reason. I work in electronics too and appreciate the details. Thanks again !
Thanks for the info,I had my fridge rebuilt and it only worked on lp,I called the company back bit no answer after paying 2700. This was 1 year ago, so today I started thinking it's gotta be something easy so I found your video and it walked me step by step and I found a blown fuse. Thank you very much for helping me out and saving me a butt load of money.hopefully this fuse fixes my problem
You are the man. Mahalo for your very informative trouble shooting steps to take. Very customer friendly CZcams Video. My RV is rather OLD 1993 and I try to tackle troubles DIY.
This video along with a few of your others taught me how to troubleshoot my issue. I wanted to thank you for the needed help. My refrigerator was running on LP gas only. Your video showed me how to trace the power and it turned out to be a fuse on the board.
Loved the step-by-step process ... not too technical ... good job.
Thorough video abs easy to follow. I employed all your tests and found no power output from board. However before replacing the $100+ lower/outside board I bought the upper/inside board and boom; problem resolved for under $30. Just wanted to comment since it wasn’t mentioned in your video and I read online lots of people replace lower board and it doesn’t resolve issue.
Can you give any info as to where that board is? I just replaced this one and still have the same issue you had with no power leaving the board.
Thank you so much for putting this video up. Now I know what to check and more importantly how to check. Invaluable information!!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I followed everything you said, so I thought. I pulled off the cover and checked the fuse. Fuse is good. I started following wires to see if something was disconnected. There was the culprit- it was not plugged in. Ok so I missed one of the first steps. Thanks again!
You saved hunting camp. Bad heating element played hell finding the right one got one on order thanks for your help
Thanks for your videos of instruction. Had that same problem. Ordered the heating element and installed it. Works flawlessly now.. Greatly appreciated. Saved me alot of money...
Great video! Thanks! I'll be digging into my RV refrigerator this evening, and I'm sure this tutorial on what to look for will be very helpful.
He is doing well on his description and use of the VOM, I am being picky but the control board has to have 12 v DC to operate either on AC or LP , the board has a 12 v fuse as well and your first thing to check is the 12 V. My experience as an electrician led me to find the 12 v wires were broken just under the wheel well. The owner replaced the lower control and was going to replace the fridge. Quick check of the fuse and turns out the fuse also is hooked to a light where it was burnt off under the light probably from a loose wire nut. Either the light was added or the wiring crew did this original. Good video but to a DIY you could get the feeling the 120v AC is enough to trouble shoot.
Thanks for the lessons. Almost brand new Dometic refrigerator had the lower board out per your diagnostic instruction. Replaced it and it works great!! Thank you😊
Agian thank you so much for your videos you explain everything in detail and it helps so much I'm a first time rv owner and we live full time in our coachman and we are blue collar so it helps so much to know how to try and fix what we can. Thank you.
Thanks for a concise video for trouble shooting.
You got a good thing going. Keep it up and will pay off!
He's doing pretty good, thank you!
Thanks much, this project is on my list this spring. It would be great if we were in closer proximity, I'd just drop it off,
I greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and tips with us. You save us a fortune.
Fantastic video. I have been trying to figure out how to fix my RM2611 Dometic unit. Now thanks to you, I have something to look for. BTW, looked on your website and did not find my manual. Bummer, but I will keep looking for one in line. Thanks again!!!!
These videos have been extremely helpful to me. I have learned quite a bit about my RV fridge as a result. I think I have successfully diagnosed my fridge issue (heating element) but I won't know for sure until the part arrives...
Replacing the heating element fixed the refrigerator. It took about 30 minutes from start to finish. It was very straight forward...of course that was after watching Darren's video.
Hi Guys,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
Thanks for a great video. I now know what to look for. PS I live in graham and go to sequim about once a month so I know where I’ll be going if I have problems over my head. Thanks
This is the video that helped me out used the reset button cuz I wasn't getting AC or propane thanks a lot for posting this video
Thanks for this! Was a little confusing at first, but I learned that I was only get 4v to the element wires. Obviously had to be 120v. Got a new Dinosaur Electronics board in & electric works on the fridge again! Thank you 👍🏻
Absolutely the best videos on U-Tube...
Used your trouble shooting on my fridge.got a new board.works fine now.thanks from Indiana
eallygreat video.. I have similar model...... older than dirt and you have already giving a good path to start on. thank you
Hi Darren checked all ur diagnostics as per ur video not working on AC but OK on LPG, great stuff...all my tests gave me ur results but still not working on AC. ps was working fine last week lol....I have it set on auto & have power ect. what am I still miising??
Thank you for doing these videos! I am new to this. My 5th wheel is still under warranty but I'm out of town and needed a quick fix.
Darren, great video and troubleshooting. Any chance you have done a video on the other failure mode? (works on electric but not propane)? I have checked all the basics, have 12 VDC, have a nice blue flame front with no startup issues, blown out rust from the flue and burner tube, but still have weak cooling on propane. You do great work on CZcams, please keep it up!
First off, like the videos. Having issues with Dometic 2351, where the freezer is performing well, but the fridge is not cooling..
Sounds like a short. Check your wires and their connection points. Make sure they are not touching anywhere they shouldn't be. Make sure they are still in good shape. If you have moved wires around already trying to fix things, make sure that they are all correctly connected. Positive to positive and neg to neg. This happened to me once, and I had mixed up my connections on my fans.i kept blowing the 5 amp fuse. Hope that helps
Very helpful video, thank you! I recently bought a RV which needs a little bit of tlc, this videos will come in handy!
Great information. I suspected my Refrigerator not working on AC power.
Thank you Darrel, I'm just starting to learn how to fix my Norcold frig and this was a great help! Keep up the good work!
Dave WRVX
Great in depth video!!! Thank you!!! I thought it was the mother board because I'm not getting 120v from the other side of the mother board.. Thank you I'll let you know in 2 weeks if that was the issue 😉
YAAAA !!!! I worked one step at a time up until the step where I pulled the heater cables off the board and read 120 volts. Then i plugged the cables back in and now the fridge works !!!! Just a loose connection Im guessing
Thank you!! My Dometic RM2862 fridge suddenly stopped working with AC and only worked on propane. Initially my daughter discovered the heating element had a melted spot on the black plastic, so she replaced it. Still wouldn't run on AC. After two weeks, I ordered a Fluke 323 Clamp Meter. Daughter had given up on troubleshooting my fridge any further. When the meter arrived, the first thing I did was check the 5amp fuse with the Fluke. 120 volts read on left side of the 5amp fuse, but zip nada on the other side. Bought some 5amp fuses, replaced the burned out fuse and wellah! It works perfectly on AC now. I was ecstatic! My daughter pretty much said nothing. LOL
Excellent video! Thanks!
AWSOME! BIG THANKS FROM ARIZONA
Helping a friend with his Norcold 6162 single door auto control gas/electric. Turned out it was the 15amp fuse. Looking at it looked ok but with the continuity check it failed. I think its cooling now but I told him to put some water in an ice tray to see if it freezes up tonight and the box for food gets down to around 40. He got a new board but didn't install it yet
Thank you very very much after watching this video i did exactly like in your drawing and now my fride is working perfect , my fridge had a big ventilation problem , thank youu☺
You're very welcome, thanks for doing your homework and Reporting back to us. You're the reason to make these videos.
Wow! Outstanding video... clear, logical and articulate. Subscribing. Oh and I have meter envy.. Haven't picked up a current sensing meter.... yet.
I am not a the leave a comment kind at all up to this point. this will be the first. Ever!
Your video is a life saver, you put out great information.
thank you
Wow, this guy is good. Thank you, Darren!
Great walk through.
Great explanation! Thank you.
Great video for trouble shooting electrical of the RV refrigerator. Thumb up! Thanks Darren.
very helpful
Thank you helped me diagnose my bad heating element
Thanks for a very good video. Helped me with making sure I was testing the correct leads, etc.
Thanks for the video. For the fridge I fixed, the fuse connections were corroded and when I unseated it and reseated it started to work again.
Another excellent presentation. Very informative. Nicely done Darren!
Thanks Daniel,
I have a few more scheduled to cut and upload over the next few weeks! Awning R&R, Bathroom Vent R&R, Furnace Gas valve diagnose, KwiKee step diagnose. Stay tuned...
I appreciate you!
Cheers,
Darren
Great video on diagnostics. I'm looking to see if you did one on a Norcold but I got the basics from this which I'm guessing applies to all or most RV fridges.
Our's worked fine on both AC & LP until we put it in storage for 3 weeks. After that the AC mode didn't work. Luckily the LP mode is.
Enough similarities between the theory of operation. More on my refrigerator play list here: czcams.com/play/PLk44vSl27TRBtE1CmMkPb02ayS5H1sKbB.html
If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Great vid, thanks my fuse looked good but was bad, checked good only on one side, back working AC now...
Hi Toyotaman29,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
We were able to replace the heating element thanks to you, but that wasnt it. Need the video that explains weather it is the upper or lower circuit board link. THANK YOU!!!!!
😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Wonderful video. Thanks for sharing. Took the mystery out of my fridge for me. Now at least I know what to check. Thanks again!!
Ohm's Law: E = I x R
where E=voltage in volts (V), I=current in amperes (A), R=resistance in ohms (Ω).
In the example of this video, the measured values satisfy Ohm's Law in that 121 V = 2.84 A x 42.3 Ω.
Power can be calculated as I x I x R (i.e. I squared x R) or as V x I.
Again, in the video example, I x I x R = 2.84 A x 2.84 A x 42.3 Ω = 341 W or by the other formula V x I = 121 V * 2.84 A = 343 W. Both values are within 5% of the nominal 325 Watts specified.
As a lifelong electrical safety professional I'd like to put in a plug (no pun intended) for using a bit of care and attention around 120V AC. It can and will harm or kill you if you let it. Get help and/or instruction from a knowledgeable person if you don't KNOW what you're doing.
where is the video of testing the circuit board on top of the fridge?
My issue is that it runs on electric but will randomly quit. I can turn it off and on and it will work again but I never know when it will go out again. I checked the fuse in the back, it was good but I put in a new one anyway. I also cleaned out the back really well. Inside the lights both glow the yellow so I don't always catch it right away. Last 5th wheel had a red light if it went out (nice). I've been just making sure I also have the gas on and value open to keep it going but since I like to keep the frig on all summer even when we're not using it it is very using too much lp gas to do this.
Your video was very helpful. I have no 120 coming out towards my igniter I think that's what you called it on the electricity side of the board. So I'm assuming I need a new motherboard or whatever you call that thing. Refuses are good I followed all the instructions you gave I've got 120 each side of the fuse on the board. Like I said nothing going to the electrode that boils the juices to get my refrigerator flowing. What's my next step what do I go you said you had some more videos on that how to change the motherboard
Will I swap the motherboard out And it's still not working.
Very helpful diagnostics for me being a rookie camper! Thank you!
Glad it helped. Lots more on the Playlist heading and even more video's in the works.
Thanks so much for the in depth instructions! Very interesting!
Very well done video!
fantastic explanation !! ty well said
I have a Dometic that runs great on the heat element with shore power. However, recently when I switched to the inverter, it was acting like its shorting. It will pop the GFCI in line. When you turn the refer back to gas it stops. I didn't find any shorts when I tested the power cable with a meter. It has ran just fine off this inverter for 4 years. Then, everything else running off the inverter has no issues. I'm all open for testing suggestions.
What a great video. Very complete And understandable. Thank you so much for your time. I also just enjoyed watching
BTW The Happijac problem is on a 2011 Keystone Fuzion 260 Toyhauler.
This video was great and very easy to understand.
Learning more about RV Fridge,, Thank you
That was an awesome video. So much information explained in such a clear way! Good job! Gonna go check out all your other vids!
Do you know what a blue wire on the control panel is loose, looks like come off from somewhere, or this need go like that?
Awesome troubleshooting! Wished I saw this when I was full time RVing. Thanks for keeping it simple, when your on the road it feels good that you have the capability to keep the family going. Hoorah! Go Navy!
Great video. Mine will blow the fuse even with the heating element disconnected. Do you have a video for checking the board?
Love your videos! Your detailed explanations are extremely helpful.
My 4 year old Dometic RM1350SL was working perfectly staying between 34-40 degrees F (depending on outside temps) for the first 2 wks of our summer trip. Suddenly the other day, the fridge started warming up even though the operation seemed normal (heat source on, 4 fans working, cycling on-off as usual, etc.). By the end of the day, it was up to 60 degrees in fridge and 45 in freezer. I reset it several times. Changed it to LP. Checked power to all components. RV is level. No smell or yellow leaks. Everything seems to be as it should, but it is actively warming up the freezer and fridge instead of cooling them. Called Dometic and they said I probably need a new cooling unit. Question: How could a 4 year old fridge go from working exceptionally well to needing a cooling unit in 1 day? Is there something else I could try first before spending $2500 on a new colling unit? We are currently in MA where the weather only gets up to 80 degrees and the fridge is in the shade all day. Any advice would be appreciated.
Excellent and patient explanations.
Hey Darren awesome thank you
This is a great video as I have exactly this problem. After several hours of shore power, no cooling. CHanged to propane with cooling in a few hours. Other vids were not this detailed, or stopped short of explaining the heating element, checking its resistance for 80 ohms +/- 10%, and the board that should be 120 V at the prongs where the heating element plugs on.
I appear to have to issues: 1) my board does not supply 120 V to the pins that feed the heating element wires and 2) my heating element wires have 8 ohms of resistance rather than 72-88 as indicated in the manual. Looks like I might be in for a new board and heating element. Do you have any videos for replacing each?
Thanks Darin, Really helpful video. Appreciate all your videos!
I'll keep making them and Publishing them if you guys keep watching them LOL happy camping.
Holy crap this guy is awesome
Awww shucks, I'm just a repair nerd with a tool fetish! LOL
I Changed out that 5 amp fuse to protect the keyboard . It only works on gas only setting but not Auto.
This is a great video. Succinct, thorough, and kind, Thank you. exactly what I was looking for.
Great video! Thanks for making it.
great video, thanks darrin
Your detailed videos are awesome. Well done.
I like your presentations, Thank you!
I may have an intermittent issue because it works on AC then it doesn't. I have a new element but haven't put it in because all the sudden it stopped working. I disconnected all AC & DC and let it sit for an hour for a factory reset. I reconnected and low and behold its on. Propane or AC it hits 34 degrees.
I recently did install an extra fan in the chimney and one on the interior box that attaches to the fins with alligator clips. Are the alligator clips causing any interference???