send this beast over to Williston Audio Labs aka (big D Wiz) he can test it for you! but i think he's limited to 10 000 watts amp dyno testing would make a sweet video! and you will no what it could really put out
This amp isn't 1 ohm stable I know. It has been tested on 2 ohm but blew the board after too much. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
@@LifeofBliss I'm curious what amp is 1 ohm stable as I'm out of the loop on current 120vac amps. I remember the days of "1/2 ohm stable" in car audio (showing my age) but I'm still a Crown fan and these specs almost seem unreal
Here is a good read on the capabilities of these amps. The 22k and 20k have the same power supplies www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
As others have noted, that kind of power requires a 240 volt, 20 amp circuit. More of a problem is that 10,000 watt hours(10 kilowatt-hours) equals 34,121 BTU's, enough to keep a typical house in the South house warm in winter.
I also have tried this model few month ago. a single fp20000q amplifier can run 8pcs 18" subwoofer and I no longer to use 4 Crest Audio CA18 amplifiers
Interesting! I haven't run across these massive amps in diy home audio. The heat sinks are for dissipating heat of the transistor array near the end of the blue pcb. The power supplies are two toroidal transformers. I wonder if those caps have a bleeder resistor? Those caps could cause some serious damage if you accidentally shorted them, maybe even a week after powering that sucker up. Thanks for the video!
No problem! Sounds like you know I bit more of the technical aspect of amplifiers. I've got the rough outline down, still learning the details... let's just hope no shorts happen! 😉
I might get own and put it through its paces during the summer, I have to run 8-12 turbosound tsw 124's loaded with precision devices 2450 driver's, it better not quite,. I'll do a review of the amplifier if I get it before during and after I have finished. And believe I will test it. Many thanks Douglas James UK England
The voltage this puts out must be nuts.While the lids off, see if you can flex the case corner to corner. will give you some indication how well built it is. Fine for indoor.Outdoor PA, in a few years...not sure
That's a hefty beast. I'd read about these before but I had assumed they were meant for mains, not subs. Do these guys make amps that are community recommended for home use(HT/music)? I'm assuming they're picked for sub duty because, like Crowns and Behringers, they push a lot of watts but maybe aren't as clean or have as quiet a noise floor?
The 20000 in this type of amps, it's always the model there's no exceptions, has 2 boards with 6 transistors that put out 200 W each x 6 = 1200 Watts max per channel, remember commun sense, 20000 W amp is the size of a Chevy Suburban XL, love those woofers tho, reminds me of the originals Vickson 24" from the 80's & 90's were made in Mexico, have fun with your sound.
Thanks man, they have been fun so far even with just 1 going. As far as the amp, I'm going off numbers from testing done on AVSForum. Looks to be about 2000w rms per channel with burst potential up to 4000w per channel. Bridged it was showing like 8400w x 2 burst if I recall. That said, even 2000w x 3 channels with 3 24" subs will be more than I would probably ever use, but the headroom is there and I shouldn't be pushing things to their limits.
@@LifeofBliss so wait 2k RMS per channel or 1800 is a good guess at 4ohm and at 2ohm 3500x4 to 4k? i'm asking cause i run car subs in my Home audio setup and want to start with one FP22000 from Sinbosen and then move to as much as 4 of them later on for a few 18 inch subs
These are not stable at 2 ohms. The 14k might be, but I would confirm with them. They explicitly say not to run the 20k or 22k at 2 ohm, even if their website shows a power rating for it. You'll get 2000w x 4 rms at 4 ohm, and up to 4000w per channel burst power. If you needed more power, you can bridge 2 of the channels of this amp to double the output. These are seriously powerful amps. Hope you have beefy 18s 😉
I think their ratings might be a bit optimistic. Even with a 240v 20A single phase circuit at full load you're not going to get more than 4800W total out of that thing (it'll actually be way less as efficiency is no where near 100%). It still looks pretty beefy I bet it'll put out closer to 3kw total. Even still, with 3 24" woofers it'll be plenty loud lol.
It'll be a 240v 30a. Sustained power will be limited, but burst power should be fairly close to claimed ratings. Good for movies, probly won't get near rated power for constant sine wave dubstep. But even at 2k per sub, that's some serious power for 1 amp! Here's a good read on some testing done. The 22k and 20k have the same power supply. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
Fan noise is loud. Loudest amp I've heard. You won't want it in the listening space. SQ is just fine for subs, really enjoy the amp. Making a follow up video in the coming weeks
Thank you for the awesome video. Can we power 3 JTR 215rt speakers for the front stage with this amplifier? If so, what would be the cons of pairing it with Anthem processor instead of pairing with traditional amplifiers like Emotiva, Parasound, Anthem etc.
How is the Sinbosen working for you? Did you have to wire dedicated electric for it? I am looking at pulling the Trigger today between the 10000Q and 20000Q.
Had it going for about a month. I did wire a dedicated 220 line. Works like a champ, crazy power. More than enough for 1 HS24 on 1 channel. Really going to try to get an update video out on it and the sub soon. I'd say if you want the extra power, no reason not to grab the 20Q
@@LifeofBliss I am powering starting with 2 Dayton 18" Ultimax dvc for my living room. I am thinking I will go with the 10000Q and use half of this amp for those, and the other half for another set of woofers in another room in the future. I was impressed with Sinbosen's Customer Service vs the other 2 clone companies. They were much less pushy, and responsive.
Yea I had a good experience with Sinbosen. And the 10q would probably be plenty for what you're looking to do. For the most part I think people on the forums prefer XBS/Sinbosen for the 20q. I don't know as much about the 10q as I didn't look into that one, but if it's built like the 20, it'll do great
301.5% actually 😉 testing has shown above 2k rms per channel and and 4k per channel burst. I doubt I will ever be pushing it to its max regardless, but the 2k on tap per sub should get things moving nicely
I had a sanway clone of the gruppen. Delivered savage power and it got me by but nothing beats the original for sound quality and reliability. The clone doesn't control the subs as well. It has far less damping. Mine lasted 2 years before 1 channel blew then just over 4 before all channels toast.
Yea I'm sure the originals are better, just a lot of $$$. I just got mine hooked up yesterday. Crazy power and seems to have a tighter, more authoritative sound than the crown xls1000. I think that amp was just struggling to keep up, it was not intended to run that sub. Video will be coming out on the clone amp soon once I get some time to edit. Sorry your amp went bad on you man. I know sinbosen was able to ship a new amp board to an AVS member when he blew a channel for free, only paid $25 shipping...
@@LifeofBliss Yes mate. The xls are garbage. You will have a lot better sound with that clone across the board than the xls. I understand the money thing that was the same with me. But the original amp is night and day difference again. I didn't go lab gruppen original either this time 5k was too much. Instead I went for a ffa10k, costed 3k, 5 years warranty too. This is a specifically designed bass amplifier tried and trusted by venues, stadiums, concerts the lot. The difference in my sound is unbelievable. It's like having different subs altogether. My ds peaker was high on room correction with the other amps. I use it NO correction now. The amps damping factor and current is such that it controls the sub that well it appears to control the room. I always thought that amps didn't matter that much and I'd agree with that at low power. But as soon as your talking 5krms into 2 ohms etc it makes a massive difference !...... If u ever get chance try one of the real amps mate but yea for now you will have massive fun with the clone as I did mine!
my thought process was if this amp lasted 3 times longer than the clone its payed for itself in addition to having all over the extra sound quality benefits !
Well the advantage you have, it is you well never use it at full capacity, maybe 20%/30% because your sound système is not enough demanding power for it, so normally you have 2 decades before it crash down :) And fan or fanless you don't care with your closet for amplifiers :) But I think you could have found very great power amplifiers in vintage category like BGW and for truly nothing (brand use with JBL audio cinema division) Make the wall shake :p Sorry if is there any faults I'm French and I follow your good work and passion :)
Im thinking to buy one fp20k and fp10k, the fp20q to drive 8 18" 8ohm 900w, 4 ohm per channel, sixth order box. The fp10q drive 8 15" 8ohm 300w woofer in 300-700hz range, 4 per channel 8 ohms, one channel driving 4 units 2" compression driver in 8 ohm. One channel left free. What you think? Btw sorry my native language is spanish.
That sounds like a huge setup! You'd need to research if the fp10q would be good for drivers other than subwoofers. I know some if these amps have a pretty high noise floor with mains
Are they 18000 watts sustained or burst? Either way the numbers sound quite made up for me, but I don't know much about amps. 18000watts with a 95% efficiency would mean 900 watts power dicipation. how do these tiny heatsinks handle that? Can anyone clear that up for me??? Thanks in advance
It wont do 18000 sustained. They do inflate the numbers a bit, but some testing on the 22k (same 2 power supplies as the 20k, just a different amp board) showed over 16000 burst and about 8000 sustained. For movies, the burst power will be great. Regardless, I figure if I'm getting 2000 watts for each 24 inch sub, that'll be more than enough output! Here's some testing done by an AVS member www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
18s? Who said anything about 18s?? 🤔😉 I am very confident I will have an increase in single digit frequencies over my current setup! Excited to get it and show you guys!
Life of Bliss I got it. You can’t confirm nor deny, with your speaker firepower 4 sealed 18’s would be a great start. Can’t wait to see what comes. I’m deciding on volt 10’s or 8’s to complete my room. Front speakers are PSA MTM 110’s and S3601 sub. (One for now but will add at least one more)
Those are some good lookin speakers. I'm sure they sound great! And yea can't go wrong with volts... The sub I am getting has been on backorder and they are just now catching up on production. Don't really want to say until it gets here just in case something falls through... hopefully not and it'll be here soon!
Hello there, I just came by this video and I have subscribed to your channel. I’m interested to see what the performance of this pro amp is in real world usage. Two channel 18.000 Watt is a lot and I’m curious if you can do measurements with special equipment to test what it really pushes to your speakers. Also, a weight of 25 pounds sounds too light for an amp like this. My hifi amp weighs around 33 pounds. Furthermore great video. I’m looking forward to see more like this. Best, Emiel.
I don't have the test equipment myself, but these have been tested by others. Here's a link to some tests done with the 22q. The 20q and 22q have the same power supplies, just a different amp board. Gives you a good idea of what the amp is capable of. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
Do you have a sub panel for the 240v in your closet or are you going to drop a new line from the main panel? And I'm guessing you will be going with 10 awg to feed it 240? Great video. Thanks!
Correct, 10 gauge wire for the 240v plug. I don't have a sub panel there as I was able to run 2 separate 20 amp lines to the closet during construction and am able to still access the ceiling area to run more lines. I didn't find it necessary, although one could argue it would have been easier!
@@LifeofBliss I ran a new 10 awg from my main panel to my closet. It is Romex, and it was recommended that I use two grounds. My Romex has 4 lines. 10-3 I think it's called. So two of the conductors are ground on a 20 amp breaker. Then a hospital grade outlet to a Belkin PureAV PF60. Any thoughts on using two grounds? I was always under the impression of equal in, equal out when wires are involved.
I personally wouldn't do 2 grounds. Aloof your power is going through the other wires. The ground shouldn't be carrying any current if everything us working correctly. It's there as a safety if something goes wrong. Seems it would be just an added cost. Nothing wrong with doing it, but I don't think it's necessary and probably won't help anything power wise. Just wondering, who recommended that?
OK, so you got a Lab Clone I had a Pallet of those here. But why a 230V model?? makes no difference 115/230 difference is a Voltage doubler at on the DC side of the AC input. not a bad TD ( Class AB with Class C Regulation ) I wonder if you gonna like so many claims it is digital
Not familiar with voltage doublers, not sure if it has one, but sounds like you know a bit about these... Went with 230v so there would be more total power on tap for the amp to work with. It was a general consensus on AVSForums that 230v 30a would be the way to go. Many seem to really like these amps, I expect to have the same experience. We will see.
Would you buy it again? Are you still using it? How do you like it after all this time? I assume you keep it in a different room then you're listening space. Or is it OK volume wise in projection room? Thanks.
@@LifeofBliss I appreciate the speedy reply. I think I will look at it again once I move my gear out of the room for the moment will go for something quieter :). Did you ever had a chance to compare it to anything else in your system?
I can't wait to get it going... that 10k will be awesome as well! And I'm not quite sure what you mean by check it A B with other amps, but I did compare specs online was about it. I haven't even hooked this one up yet haha and I do not have the equipment or access to any other big amps for side by side testing.
Yea I just compared specs and pricing. Looked pretty hard at a few crown amps, but nothing came close to the power of the clone 20k for the money. And hopefully by the end of the month I'll be getting what this thing is powering... don't want to jump the gun 😉 I'll definitely do an unboxing though!
🙄 Warranty... 😂 I doubt I'll be shipping this back to China if there's an issue lol! In all seriousness, others have pushed these amps past their limit and fried a board in there. Sinbosen has sent them a replacement board no questions asked, I believe they just paid shipping. Hopefully I won't have to try that myself haha. I'll do doing a followup video on this amp for the setup and demo after the sub is built. But you can also see the specs on Sinbosen's website linked in the description
these amps actually do only 2kW sustained but they can burst up to like 16K that means on movies short bass or on music that doesnt have constant/long bass tones these Sinbosen amps can do that, but not when he's going in rap territory. thats because the capacitors can store enough energy to do serious bursts, so the amp doesn't draw over about 2.2kW during operation. a real LabGruppen would indeed require that and three phase power (you cant run those on a single phase, even the Behringer iNuke NU6000 or 12000 (or the new NX series amps) require 3 phase power, although the Behringer amps sustain their power as in the NU3000 does about 2.4kW constant, the 6000 4.8kW constant and the 12000 9.6kW constant.
I have this wired on a 230v 30a circuit. Tried to give it as much power as I could for sustained power. Should be closer to 7k sustained wired this way. Definitely want to do a 230v circuit when getting an amp like this. But yea burst power is pretty crazy!
@@LifeofBliss yeah, i thought you had it wired on 120V well.. one of the good things in Europe is that we actually use 230V throughout our house and actually have access to 400V for even more power while drawing less current :D
900 bucks is crazy for that lol I used to work for Clair bros audio and we had 100s of the labgruppens and they cost ten times that , hope it works out for you.
@@LifeofBliss Thank you so much for the reply. I live in Glasgow, I do PA hires and audio installations and I have been curious about these amps for a while. I'll order one up and give it a go. Thanks again
Here's a good read on these amps. Most prefer the 20k to the 22k due to built quality. Many use these with great results. I haven't used mine yet due to the subs not being completed www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html
@Life of Bliss thanks for the reply and the link. however, all I can find on that page is that the "FP14K clone" (whichever one that is) outputs 150 volts, but I'm unable to convert that into watts without knowing the current type or amperage. and fair enough on the not having used it yet!
Hmm... well it's on page 49 of the thread. Halfway down there are some charts of tested tones at 4.5 ohm. Essentially 2 channels driven (1 per power source, the amp has 2) and they were getting over 4k watts per channel. That's the very condensed version lol, but it gives a good idea of the possible power from these
@@LifeofBliss yes you divide the voltage with the ohm of the speaker and you have the Ampers, 150v ÷4=37.5A you you can multiply with 150v you have 5k watts burst i think, but is great
Well it depends on how you wire everything up, but most of the breakers are 120v for the house. You can use 2 breakers and spaces in the box to make a 240 volt connection. I have 2 drier hookups that are 240v in the box already. We are only using 1 of them so I'll be able to run some new wiring to the existing breakers and have a 30 amp 240v connection in my media closet.
Hey Life of Bliss. I know you got rid of your 707's but I gotta tell you something. So we both have heard the issues with the 707's and I did something in my theater that not only fixed it, but now is the best sounding speaker I have ever heard, and I have heard quite a few.. Ok so, some would argue with me on this but I will just tell you what I did and I assure you the sound is night and day. I had them hooked up to an Ashly MFA 8000 initially. The MFA does 750 watts into 8 ohms. We both know watts don't really matter because we don't have to listen at full blast and headroom never hurt anything. I Figured, What would it sound like if I hooked up another MFA, so I bridged each 707 to each amp. So each 707 has its own MFA which is somewhere around 2400 watts per side and maybe 5000 total if one considers that the lsim measure closer to 6.7 ohms on the meter. I actually don't listen to them very loudly, I just wanted to see if I could get some more control over them with some higher current. Let me tell you, the speaker is new again. I have never heard anything like this in my life. I know it sounds crazy that it would make so much of a difference, but it did. The phantom image they are creating is freaky. The image has come out of the speaker, it literally does not sound like what I am hearing is coming from the speakers. My theory is a little rough because I don't quite understand, but from reading some forums I think I have an idea. So the MFA 8000 amp is Class ab. It is a fully balanced dual mono block with individual switching transformers with mechanical signal grounding. With class ab there will be the push pull switching technique done within each side of the amp's internal mono blocks. When bridging, the second channel is inverted, and because it is dual mono class ab, the opposite sides push and pull opposite of each other when bridged. The speaker connected to the amp sees a middle ground between its "first watt" and the last watt in the transition. The amp effectively cuts the voltage drop in half, on top of which it sounds like a class a. I don't believe this will happen if its not dual mono class ab. Whatever the reason, The 707's apparently don't want to sing unless they have a gun aimed at their head like I did with the ridiculous amount of current I'm feeding them. Anyway if you stumble upon another pair someday don't be afraid to hook them straight into the power lines. They are phantom imaging so well that I ditched my center channel. Im not kidding either lol. Anyway I thought I'd share that with you, loving the content cant wait for more home audio stuff!
Wow, now that's some power there! Just don't catch them on fire 😉 and I hear ya on headroom and dynamics. I only have 125wpc from the Emotiva I'm using. I'll eventually be looking to get some more power, but the 1299s should still rock with their sensitivity so high. It's pretty crazy how much difference there is with some good clean power going to things, sounds like your 707s are rockin!
@@LifeofBliss lol I wont be catching them on fire as I don't turn them up very loud, well sometimes I do. Its pretty loud by the time the clip meter even registers. I mentioned the peak power of the Ashly MFA amps being about 5000 watts when bridged at 6.7 ohms but that would be impossible because the outlets in the wall probably cant go past 1800 watts even if there was no voltage drop but thats ok because Im not hooking them up that way for the wattage anyway. Just for the more robust current and I think the 707's need it because of that problem with the mid range. The 6.5 is on the same crossover with the oval woofers and if there is not enough juice, I think the woofers steal all the current and the leave the 6.5 a little high and dry. Initially there was some lack of depth in vocals and it sounded a little thin as well. Basically the lows and the highs were not meeting in the middle because the midbass was too soft with the ovals acting power hungry, and there are two of them vs the one 6.5. I hope to soon built a separate room for a theater like you are doing but I need to buy another house first. probably next year, My thoughts are 6.6.4.1, 6 floorstanders like I am using now, (707's in front and back with 705's on the sides) with no center. Then the next .6 for the height channels (lsim 703's in front and back height with 702fx on sides). Then the .4 being the 4 ceiling speakers which I have not purchased yet, and the.1 for mono LFE in the rear. I have a few subs but the 707's go so low I don't need surround subwoofers, just the effect which means mono will be fine. I could probably get away with some seat transducers but I don't think it will be the same. Probably will go with 4 psa's. I was watching youthman's channel and that 18 looked pretty damn linear. I have pleny of Ashly, Peavy, and Qsc amps so Im good there. It should be insane and I cant wait. I will keep you posted if you want. Anyway thanks again for the cool content and I look forward to the next.
Heck yea let me know! That sounds like a hell of a system! Youthman has some pretty good stuff, I watch him as well. Hopefully I'll be able to keep up with that 18 when I'm done 😉
I know measurements and an objective based analysis won't cater for many of your viewers but it will separate your channel from the rest of the field. Your a delight to watch and you do many things that us DIY'ers enjoy learning and watching, plus we truly enjoy your beautiful family and daughter who take part in your hobby. But the subjective aspect doesn't allow us to really understand the quality of the products you have chosen. You do chose affordable products but how good are they really? For example, we know for a fact that 99.9% of PA type amplifiers measure horribly, and it goes without saying that a Chinese clone that is over engineered, better quality, better made at about 1/4 the price beats anything on the market. Yes, it doesn't measure well either, but nor does the competition. Now, if you bring in pure measurements then we know exactly the quality of the product at hand at what price point. Then companies that are confident with there engineering will advertise with you knowing that there gear will get a good rap regardless. I recommend you send your equipment bought to ASR you might be disappointed to see so many products failing miserably on a sound quality scale(ei. distortion, SINAD) but you either entertain or you pursue the quest for competently engineered gear. Disclaimer, I am not an expert advisor in audio, business or for CZcams but food for thought.
Thanks for the input man. This was my first video on the amp. Theres a recent video on it that goes over the performance more, and the subwoofer videos show rew measurements. Outside of REW, I don't really have the equipment to measure things. I left a link to someone who did some testing on the amp on the newer video though. Long story short, these are serious amps. About 2000w rms per channel and 4000w burst.
@@LifeofBliss I got a random Chinese amp as well for subwoofer duties class TD and it rocks. Then I bought a cheaper class D and no where near as good. Again, I don't have measuretns either but not bad at all for the price I got it for. Regarding taking measurements, yes I understand its beyond our scope and a lot of extra effort, I was just thinking if sending to a third party will give you edge thats all. I cant see the link you've posted? Ill check out the next vid!
A 30A 220 breaker will trip at about 6Kw, and even altogether - doing the math on those caps - they will be evacuated in about 3/4ths of a second at that much pull. You'd have done better to run a single of the 24's off that amp to prevent a current under-run (read: distortion), rather than trying to drive 2 or 3 of them.
240v 30a breaker. I've ran 3 of the 4 channels to blipping the clip light and it hasn't skipped a beat. I'll have an update video in the near future, getting a few other things done first
Life of Bliss given how dynamic music is, I can see that being feasible, how breakers work and there trip curve. I doubt you ever run into problems. Maybe one day I’ll get to check one of these amps out. Definitely jealous. Great job by the way.
Did you research the best Chinese company to purchase the FP from? I bought a few of the FP10Qs about 7 years ago from a company researched on the AVS forums and they still work running my 10 21” subs.
Yea there were a lot of threads on Avsforum I looked at. Many had bought this particular amp from Sinbosen and had good luck so it was considered the one to get
Thanks! Me and “The Lion”, Walter, are in the middle of designing my HT2.0 for Trinnov Altitude32. Should be ripping out my old wall any time and replacing all the JTRs with Quested LT20s and Z8s for surrounds. Getting excited! I also posted a question about the amp draw on your new amp. Have you found out what it’s claimed max amp draw is?
Those altitude processors are nuts man, that's going to be awesome!! Here's a link to someone who has done some testing in the 22k which uses the same power sources. Just a different amp board. About halfway down the page. It's a good read and has a lot more information than what I went over here. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
For sub duty these amps do well. Many have tested and used them for that purpose. Depending on the model, they don't work well for full range setups due to a high noise floor.
yagballs - You’re kidding, right? First, he is driving monstrous DIY Subs/speakers that require huge wattage! Second, you are waaay behind the curve on amp classification/sound quality relationship analysis! Many of today’s top amps are Class D! Class A/B amps were considered sonically superior for most of the audiophile era. However, over the past decade, or so, Class D amps (especially ones with Hypex Ncore modules) have surpassed many of their A/B brethren (in H/T applications with all channels driven)! Efficiency of a well designed class D will result in lower noise and much lower heat and produce a very neutral sound! I have owned Mark Levinson, Krell, Parasound, and many other marquis amps (my company custom installs home theaters) over the last two decades and I have to say that my class D ATI AT54xNC amps sound as good as any of the above mentioned amps! A $3k multichannel class A/B amp would be sonically destroyed by a $3k multichannel class D amp! You don’t have to believe me, research it!
@@LifeofBlissAny chance of a review on the amp? curious about it's performance, noise level as in ground floor hiss, also heat and fan noise. I'm looking into changing from crowns to a FP20000q
@@keithiegee1 yea I'm going to try to get a video out relatively soon. But long story short, it's a beast of an amp, but the fan noise is pretty darn loud. You'd want it in an equipment closet of out of the listening area
Obviously this guys does not know what inside the amp casing, are those mosfets on that blue board, how much storage do those caps offer, is the amp bipolar as well etc etc. ANyway its a review, I have no idea why anyone outside of commercial applications would need this amp.
Actual power has been tested at 2000w x 4 continuous, 4000w x 4 burst. This is connected to a 240v 30a outlet. These have a ton of capacitors for burst power in them.
www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1 here are some test results. Many have used the amp with larger drivers and had good luck with them
That amp won’t be quiet..the fans make a lot of noise..for my living room I have a stack of Yamaha p7000s they are amazing the fans never kick on never..only if you are playing music after sometime they start spinning and of course you can’t hear them the fans are so quiet..
I mentioned in the video they will cost around $800-900 depending on the exchange rate and import/shipping fees. You'll need to email them for an exact cost
@@LifeofBliss im also buying this amp i got in touch with this beautiful lady DAN i hope is the same dan you mention in video BUT. Please Tell me more about do you any problems with?? How would this amp compare to the real LAB GRUPPEN wich is made in sweden ??? What part will get bad in these amps ??? Is not like the older amp where they have this heavy coil inside???since you have for a while now does it really delivers the power they clain? DAN told me i will be able to conect 8 18" 18lw1400 from 18sound ??? I will apreciate your if you can tell me your experience with amp PLEASE
I have actually not even hooked it up yet as I haven't got my subs finished. Here is a link to some testing done on the 22k which has the same power supplies www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html
Yea I know, fun to dream I guess... here's some testing results with the 22k that has the same 2 power supplies if you are interested. 8k watts rms continuous and 16k watts burst power www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
I am willing to bet the specs are fudged and seriously doubt the quality of that amp being a Chinese brand! I would go with a Crown brand amp any day before going with a Chinese brand!
Here's some testing done one the 22k which has the same 2 power supplies, just a different amp board. Not going to do 16000 rms for sure, but burst power is right around there. Still plenty of power. Crown makes good stuff. I own an xps1000. Just can't get anywhere near the coat per watt as this amp. www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html
Dude opens up the amp , has no ideea at what hețs looking at :)))fiy the parts quality of this copy is sub par with the original + the schematic they use are a guess-timate of what they think it should be , hope it dosent catch on fire like others
Yea it's a beast... after seeing some test results from another individual, it's closer to 16,000w burst power, 8000w rms over the 4 channels, but still impressive
That is a replica of Lab.Gruppen 4 channel , its a professional commercial sound grade amplifier thats why it has XLR ins/outs. www.labgruppen.com/Categories/Labgruppen/FP%2B-SERIES/FP-10000Q/p/P0CN7#googtrans(en|en)
Yea man... the cost to performance ratio is really unmatched. Obviously you are dealing with a Chinese company, but they have taken care of others that have had issues. And the main issue I know of was a fried amp board, but the guy was purposely pushing it past it limits. They sent him a new board, just paid shipping.
cant really judge this situation cause I have no clue what your little sub specs are. Im going to take a stab in the dark and say your not lacking power, your lacking subs. Two 18" high end subs will fill that basement for sure.
Yes I am definitely lacking subs. But I should have the solution soon. My most recent video I unboxed 3 24" subs that I will be powering with this amp. Should do the trick 😉
I don't know how your whole setup is but a bit of good advice for great sound, I use a 10" powered sub @ 100hz for behind my entertainment center, then I have 8" powered sub @ 60hz but in reverse and this sub is placed behind me (back part of living room). I get outstanding sub responses this way. This setup shakes the hell out of my house, now with you having 3 24" inchers....holly cow.
Great Amp, I bought lots of stuff from this company. We all already know that nothing much is made in the USA anymore. 99% are made in China. Original Lab G. Would cost you about $4000 or more
Yea I know lol, that won't be constant power. Looking at probably half that for all channels. But burst power should be pretty impressive. Here's some testing done on the 22k that has the same 2 power supplies www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
send this beast over to Williston Audio Labs aka (big D Wiz) he can test it for you! but i think he's limited to 10 000 watts amp dyno testing
would make a sweet video! and you will no what it could really put out
I've thought about that! Would make for a cool video for sure... Idk, we'll see
the smd amp dyno tops out at 24kw mono 1 ohm as far as i know
This amp isn't 1 ohm stable I know. It has been tested on 2 ohm but blew the board after too much. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
@@LifeofBliss the nice thing is the amp dyno can be setup for diff ohm loads without a problem
very nice bit of kit for sure
@@LifeofBliss I'm curious what amp is 1 ohm stable as I'm out of the loop on current 120vac amps. I remember the days of "1/2 ohm stable" in car audio (showing my age) but I'm still a Crown fan and these specs almost seem unreal
Oh yeah! That’s a lot of juice! Looking forward to seeing what it will be powering. Great video, just subbed!
@Life of Bliss...I sent you an email.
It should hopefully do the job 😉 thanks bud!
What kind of power rms is this
Here is a good read on the capabilities of these amps. The 22k and 20k have the same power supplies www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
I was an instant fan when you said let's open it up.
As others have noted, that kind of power requires a 240 volt, 20 amp circuit. More of a problem is that 10,000 watt hours(10 kilowatt-hours) equals 34,121 BTU's, enough to keep a typical house in the South house warm in winter.
It'll be run off a 240v 30a circuit. Looks like I'll be crankin the bass more in winter 😎
My neighbors complain about the 12s I have in my house on 300 watts. Be a shame if this appeared on my front porch...
I also have tried this model few month ago. a single fp20000q amplifier can run 8pcs 18" subwoofer and I no longer to use 4 Crest Audio CA18 amplifiers
Awesome, Send me all of your CA 18. 20 years from now , it will be nice to be still using them.
Interesting! I haven't run across these massive amps in diy home audio.
The heat sinks are for dissipating heat of the transistor array near the end of the blue pcb. The power supplies are two toroidal transformers.
I wonder if those caps have a bleeder resistor? Those caps could cause some serious damage if you accidentally shorted them, maybe even a week after powering that sucker up.
Thanks for the video!
No problem! Sounds like you know I bit more of the technical aspect of amplifiers. I've got the rough outline down, still learning the details... let's just hope no shorts happen! 😉
@@LifeofBliss same man! Just learning as much as I can. Keep up the videos. Solid content!
I believe they use a switched mode power supply.
THOSE HUGE CAPACITORS, will definitely create 20.0 magnitude earthquakes
Just ordered this bad boy for the uk current, to run 4 Fane colossus xb18's. Waiting on delivery and I'm worse than a kid on xmas eve!!
Hi bigman, how did this run your xbs? Any channel mute issues?
Oh and what does the LG or Clone manual say is the max amp draw? I have 220V for all my screen/sub speakers.
I might get own and put it through its paces during the summer, I have to run 8-12 turbosound tsw 124's loaded with precision devices 2450 driver's, it better not quite,.
I'll do a review of the amplifier if I get it before during and after I have finished.
And believe I will test it. Many thanks Douglas James UK England
How did the amp last out?
The voltage this puts out must be nuts.While the lids off, see if you can flex the case corner to corner. will give you some indication how well built it is. Fine for indoor.Outdoor PA, in a few years...not sure
I have it hooked up now, definitely puts out some power! It was pretty dang sturdy with the lid off, I don't remember any flexing.
🇪🇨SIMBOSEN exelente
Amplifier powerfull
🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊👍
That's a hefty beast. I'd read about these before but I had assumed they were meant for mains, not subs. Do these guys make amps that are community recommended for home use(HT/music)? I'm assuming they're picked for sub duty because, like Crowns and Behringers, they push a lot of watts but maybe aren't as clean or have as quiet a noise floor?
Great video, THX
I've an (for me) important question : How loud (1m distance) are the fans in idle condition and and full load?
Thanks in advance
I think my phone spl app said about 45 db. I don't have it set up currently, but its very loud if in the same listening area
The 20000 in this type of amps, it's always the model there's no exceptions, has 2 boards with 6 transistors that put out 200 W each x 6 = 1200 Watts max per channel, remember commun sense, 20000 W amp is the size of a Chevy Suburban XL, love those woofers tho, reminds me of the originals Vickson 24" from the 80's & 90's were made in Mexico, have fun with your sound.
Thanks man, they have been fun so far even with just 1 going. As far as the amp, I'm going off numbers from testing done on AVSForum. Looks to be about 2000w rms per channel with burst potential up to 4000w per channel. Bridged it was showing like 8400w x 2 burst if I recall. That said, even 2000w x 3 channels with 3 24" subs will be more than I would probably ever use, but the headroom is there and I shouldn't be pushing things to their limits.
@@LifeofBliss so wait 2k RMS per channel or 1800 is a good guess at 4ohm and at 2ohm 3500x4 to 4k? i'm asking cause i run car subs in my Home audio setup and want to start with one FP22000 from Sinbosen and then move to as much as 4 of them later on for a few 18 inch subs
These are not stable at 2 ohms. The 14k might be, but I would confirm with them. They explicitly say not to run the 20k or 22k at 2 ohm, even if their website shows a power rating for it. You'll get 2000w x 4 rms at 4 ohm, and up to 4000w per channel burst power. If you needed more power, you can bridge 2 of the channels of this amp to double the output. These are seriously powerful amps. Hope you have beefy 18s 😉
@@LifeofBliss nice i'm waiting on a Quote from them cuz i'm gonna run bout four subs at 4ohm on the amp and i believe the amp will do just fine.
I think their ratings might be a bit optimistic. Even with a 240v 20A single phase circuit at full load you're not going to get more than 4800W total out of that thing (it'll actually be way less as efficiency is no where near 100%). It still looks pretty beefy I bet it'll put out closer to 3kw total. Even still, with 3 24" woofers it'll be plenty loud lol.
It'll be a 240v 30a. Sustained power will be limited, but burst power should be fairly close to claimed ratings. Good for movies, probly won't get near rated power for constant sine wave dubstep. But even at 2k per sub, that's some serious power for 1 amp! Here's a good read on some testing done. The 22k and 20k have the same power supply. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
also, its 4k/channel MAX, not RMS
@@LifeofBliss yeah, loud enough right?
Should be plenty loud lol
@@LifeofBliss just laughing at the (dorky white guy voice) "ya know I'm not sure you're gonna hit full rated power ya know" lol
Hello Bliss I've got 2 questions, how is the fan noise and tell me about the sound quality, please. Thanks
Fan noise is loud. Loudest amp I've heard. You won't want it in the listening space. SQ is just fine for subs, really enjoy the amp. Making a follow up video in the coming weeks
como configura esta chaves para impedancia em 2 ohms
is the amp still going strong ?
which is the model with DSP?
Tthanks @life of Bliss.
It's worked great. I do not have the dsp model, you're better off with grabbing a mini dsp hd 2x4 for dsp
@@LifeofBliss Worked? As in you've gone another route?
Nope, still going strong
@@LifeofBliss that's great. I'm trying to purchase one but can't find a seller that offers the newer version with more capacitors and cooling fans 😞
I'll get you in contact with Sinbosen directly. Send me an email lifeofblisskb@gmail.com
Thank you for the awesome video. Can we power 3 JTR 215rt speakers for the front stage with this amplifier? If so, what would be the cons of pairing it with Anthem processor instead of pairing with traditional amplifiers like Emotiva, Parasound, Anthem etc.
I would not use one of these amps for your mains. Too high of a noise floor. Way too much power too. I would only use these for subs.
@@LifeofBliss Thank you so much for taking your time to respond
How is the Sinbosen working for you? Did you have to wire dedicated electric for it? I am looking at pulling the Trigger today between the 10000Q and 20000Q.
Had it going for about a month. I did wire a dedicated 220 line. Works like a champ, crazy power. More than enough for 1 HS24 on 1 channel. Really going to try to get an update video out on it and the sub soon. I'd say if you want the extra power, no reason not to grab the 20Q
@@LifeofBliss I am powering starting with 2 Dayton 18" Ultimax dvc for my living room. I am thinking I will go with the 10000Q and use half of this amp for those, and the other half for another set of woofers in another room in the future. I was impressed with Sinbosen's Customer Service vs the other 2 clone companies. They were much less pushy, and responsive.
Yea I had a good experience with Sinbosen. And the 10q would probably be plenty for what you're looking to do. For the most part I think people on the forums prefer XBS/Sinbosen for the 20q. I don't know as much about the 10q as I didn't look into that one, but if it's built like the 20, it'll do great
Efficiency 300%, right?
301.5% actually 😉 testing has shown above 2k rms per channel and and 4k per channel burst. I doubt I will ever be pushing it to its max regardless, but the 2k on tap per sub should get things moving nicely
I had a sanway clone of the gruppen. Delivered savage power and it got me by but nothing beats the original for sound quality and reliability. The clone doesn't control the subs as well. It has far less damping. Mine lasted 2 years before 1 channel blew then just over 4 before all channels toast.
Yea I'm sure the originals are better, just a lot of $$$. I just got mine hooked up yesterday. Crazy power and seems to have a tighter, more authoritative sound than the crown xls1000. I think that amp was just struggling to keep up, it was not intended to run that sub. Video will be coming out on the clone amp soon once I get some time to edit. Sorry your amp went bad on you man. I know sinbosen was able to ship a new amp board to an AVS member when he blew a channel for free, only paid $25 shipping...
@@LifeofBliss Yes mate. The xls are garbage. You will have a lot better sound with that clone across the board than the xls. I understand the money thing that was the same with me. But the original amp is night and day difference again. I didn't go lab gruppen original either this time 5k was too much. Instead I went for a ffa10k, costed 3k, 5 years warranty too. This is a specifically designed bass amplifier tried and trusted by venues, stadiums, concerts the lot. The difference in my sound is unbelievable. It's like having different subs altogether. My ds peaker was high on room correction with the other amps. I use it NO correction now. The amps damping factor and current is such that it controls the sub that well it appears to control the room.
I always thought that amps didn't matter that much and I'd agree with that at low power. But as soon as your talking 5krms into 2 ohms etc it makes a massive difference !...... If u ever get chance try one of the real amps mate but yea for now you will have massive fun with the clone as I did mine!
my thought process was if this amp lasted 3 times longer than the clone its payed for itself in addition to having all over the extra sound quality benefits !
Well the advantage you have, it is you well never use it at full capacity, maybe 20%/30% because your sound système is not enough demanding power for it, so normally you have 2 decades before it crash down :)
And fan or fanless you don't care with your closet for amplifiers :)
But I think you could have found very great power amplifiers in vintage category like BGW and for truly nothing (brand use with JBL audio cinema division)
Make the wall shake :p
Sorry if is there any faults I'm French and I follow your good work and passion :)
Thanks Maxime. I won't be running the system very hard at all most of the time so it should last quite a while!
Im thinking to buy one fp20k and fp10k, the fp20q to drive 8 18" 8ohm 900w, 4 ohm per channel, sixth order box. The fp10q drive 8 15" 8ohm 300w woofer in 300-700hz range, 4 per channel 8 ohms, one channel driving 4 units 2" compression driver in 8 ohm. One channel left free. What you think? Btw sorry my native language is spanish.
That sounds like a huge setup! You'd need to research if the fp10q would be good for drivers other than subwoofers. I know some if these amps have a pretty high noise floor with mains
Are they 18000 watts sustained or burst? Either way the numbers sound quite made up for me, but I don't know much about amps. 18000watts with a 95% efficiency would mean 900 watts power dicipation. how do these tiny heatsinks handle that? Can anyone clear that up for me???
Thanks in advance
It wont do 18000 sustained. They do inflate the numbers a bit, but some testing on the 22k (same 2 power supplies as the 20k, just a different amp board) showed over 16000 burst and about 8000 sustained. For movies, the burst power will be great. Regardless, I figure if I'm getting 2000 watts for each 24 inch sub, that'll be more than enough output! Here's some testing done by an AVS member www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
And btw, I don't claim to know a lot about amps either. I rely on the expertise and testing that others do 😉
How many sealed 18’s are going to build?going for powerful single digit extension I hope. Can’t wait to see your set up.
18s? Who said anything about 18s?? 🤔😉 I am very confident I will have an increase in single digit frequencies over my current setup! Excited to get it and show you guys!
Life of Bliss I got it. You can’t confirm nor deny, with your speaker firepower 4 sealed 18’s would be a great start. Can’t wait to see what comes. I’m deciding on volt 10’s or 8’s to complete my room. Front speakers are PSA MTM 110’s and S3601 sub. (One for now but will add at least one more)
Those are some good lookin speakers. I'm sure they sound great! And yea can't go wrong with volts... The sub I am getting has been on backorder and they are just now catching up on production. Don't really want to say until it gets here just in case something falls through... hopefully not and it'll be here soon!
Hello there,
I just came by this video and I have subscribed to your channel. I’m interested to see what the performance of this pro amp is in real world usage. Two channel 18.000 Watt is a lot and I’m curious if you can do measurements with special equipment to test what it really pushes to your speakers. Also, a weight of 25 pounds sounds too light for an amp like this. My hifi amp weighs around 33 pounds. Furthermore great video. I’m looking forward to see more like this. Best, Emiel.
I don't have the test equipment myself, but these have been tested by others. Here's a link to some tests done with the 22q. The 20q and 22q have the same power supplies, just a different amp board. Gives you a good idea of what the amp is capable of. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
Do you have a sub panel for the 240v in your closet or are you going to drop a new line from the main panel? And I'm guessing you will be going with 10 awg to feed it 240? Great video. Thanks!
Correct, 10 gauge wire for the 240v plug. I don't have a sub panel there as I was able to run 2 separate 20 amp lines to the closet during construction and am able to still access the ceiling area to run more lines. I didn't find it necessary, although one could argue it would have been easier!
@@LifeofBliss I ran a new 10 awg from my main panel to my closet. It is Romex, and it was recommended that I use two grounds. My Romex has 4 lines. 10-3 I think it's called. So two of the conductors are ground on a 20 amp breaker. Then a hospital grade outlet to a Belkin PureAV PF60. Any thoughts on using two grounds? I was always under the impression of equal in, equal out when wires are involved.
I personally wouldn't do 2 grounds. Aloof your power is going through the other wires. The ground shouldn't be carrying any current if everything us working correctly. It's there as a safety if something goes wrong. Seems it would be just an added cost. Nothing wrong with doing it, but I don't think it's necessary and probably won't help anything power wise. Just wondering, who recommended that?
OK, so you got a Lab Clone I had a Pallet of those here. But why a 230V model?? makes no difference 115/230 difference is a Voltage doubler at on the DC side of the AC input. not a bad TD ( Class AB with Class C Regulation ) I wonder if you gonna like so many claims it is digital
Not familiar with voltage doublers, not sure if it has one, but sounds like you know a bit about these... Went with 230v so there would be more total power on tap for the amp to work with. It was a general consensus on AVSForums that 230v 30a would be the way to go. Many seem to really like these amps, I expect to have the same experience. We will see.
Hello, how are the sinbosen amplifiers?
they are good amps
Would you buy it again? Are you still using it? How do you like it after all this time? I assume you keep it in a different room then you're listening space. Or is it OK volume wise in projection room? Thanks.
I would definitely buy again. Love this amp. Only downside is the fan noise, you wont want it in the same room
@@LifeofBliss I appreciate the speedy reply. I think I will look at it again once I move my gear out of the room for the moment will go for something quieter :). Did you ever had a chance to compare it to anything else in your system?
I have a couple of nx3000 amps, one for each sub. They don't even come close to the same power. This amp is a beast for the money
@@LifeofBliss and how about sound quality? Any discernable differences?
Thanks
Nope. Both have no audible noise floor, sq has been identical as far as I can tell. Just more power with the sinbosen. Much more
i love that beast
i will get soon fp10000q
did u check it A B with branded amps like crown qsc etc
I can't wait to get it going... that 10k will be awesome as well! And I'm not quite sure what you mean by check it A B with other amps, but I did compare specs online was about it. I haven't even hooked this one up yet haha and I do not have the equipment or access to any other big amps for side by side testing.
like fp20k vs crown or qcs power amps
@@LifeofBliss ohhhh hahahhah realy
between how much 18s u considering for this beast
Yea I just compared specs and pricing. Looked pretty hard at a few crown amps, but nothing came close to the power of the clone 20k for the money. And hopefully by the end of the month I'll be getting what this thing is powering... don't want to jump the gun 😉 I'll definitely do an unboxing though!
@@LifeofBliss goood luck bro
Probably just voided the warranty taking off that housing cover 😂😂😂. Jk nice vid. Wanna see more specs on this thing thd and s/n
🙄 Warranty... 😂 I doubt I'll be shipping this back to China if there's an issue lol! In all seriousness, others have pushed these amps past their limit and fried a board in there. Sinbosen has sent them a replacement board no questions asked, I believe they just paid shipping. Hopefully I won't have to try that myself haha. I'll do doing a followup video on this amp for the setup and demo after the sub is built. But you can also see the specs on Sinbosen's website linked in the description
@@LifeofBliss i am tuned in for sure!!!
This looks a lot like a Seismic Audio Epicenter5004. The SA might be closer to a Sinbosen FP6000Q in features, but the SA is most definitely a clone!
You gonna have to call an electrician to run a 100 amp Circuit just the power that Amp! LOL!!!!
these amps actually do only 2kW sustained but they can burst up to like 16K
that means on movies short bass or on music that doesnt have constant/long bass tones these Sinbosen amps can do that, but not when he's going in rap territory.
thats because the capacitors can store enough energy to do serious bursts, so the amp doesn't draw over about 2.2kW during operation.
a real LabGruppen would indeed require that and three phase power (you cant run those on a single phase, even the Behringer iNuke NU6000 or 12000 (or the new NX series amps) require 3 phase power, although the Behringer amps sustain their power as in the NU3000 does about 2.4kW constant, the 6000 4.8kW constant and the 12000 9.6kW constant.
I have this wired on a 230v 30a circuit. Tried to give it as much power as I could for sustained power. Should be closer to 7k sustained wired this way. Definitely want to do a 230v circuit when getting an amp like this. But yea burst power is pretty crazy!
@@LifeofBliss yeah, i thought you had it wired on 120V
well.. one of the good things in Europe is that we actually use 230V throughout our house and actually have access to 400V for even more power while drawing less current :D
Hello,the cool fans work that always, or only when the temperature gets higher. Kind regards Dirk
They are always that loud. That was a cold startup
Actually that's the older video, check iut my more recent video on the amp, I go into more detail
900 bucks is crazy for that lol I used to work for Clair bros audio and we had 100s of the labgruppens and they cost ten times that , hope it works out for you.
Which is why I didn't buy a labgruppen lol... yea hopefully I do, many use these for HT and haven't had issues yet which is why I am trying it out
Do you still have the amp, has it been reliable? Thanks from Scotland
Still have it, still use it. Bridged on 2 24s now on 110v instead of 230v. It's a beast, been very reliable
@@LifeofBliss Thank you so much for the reply. I live in Glasgow, I do PA hires and audio installations and I have been curious about these amps for a while. I'll order one up and give it a go. Thanks again
Tell them I sent you, may be able to save a few bucks...
@@LifeofBliss Cheers buddy I will do thanks again
Has this been on a meter and been proven to do its rated power...? Also, is this still working after more than 3 months...?
Here's a good read on these amps. Most prefer the 20k to the 22k due to built quality. Many use these with great results. I haven't used mine yet due to the subs not being completed
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html
@Life of Bliss thanks for the reply and the link. however, all I can find on that page is that the "FP14K clone" (whichever one that is) outputs 150 volts, but I'm unable to convert that into watts without knowing the current type or amperage. and fair enough on the not having used it yet!
Hmm... well it's on page 49 of the thread. Halfway down there are some charts of tested tones at 4.5 ohm. Essentially 2 channels driven (1 per power source, the amp has 2) and they were getting over 4k watts per channel. That's the very condensed version lol, but it gives a good idea of the possible power from these
@@LifeofBliss yes you divide the voltage with the ohm of the speaker and you have the Ampers, 150v ÷4=37.5A you you can multiply with 150v you have 5k watts burst i think, but is great
Do u still have this amp and how do u like it
Still have it, its an absolute monster amp. Fans are loud, but power is incredible
Is your electrical panel 240v?
Well it depends on how you wire everything up, but most of the breakers are 120v for the house. You can use 2 breakers and spaces in the box to make a 240 volt connection. I have 2 drier hookups that are 240v in the box already. We are only using 1 of them so I'll be able to run some new wiring to the existing breakers and have a 30 amp 240v connection in my media closet.
A capacitors units are pronounced "microfarad". No offense intended. Nice informative video.
Thanks man 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Hey Life of Bliss. I know you got rid of your 707's but I gotta tell you something. So we both have heard the issues with the 707's and I did something in my theater that not only fixed it, but now is the best sounding speaker I have ever heard, and I have heard quite a few.. Ok so, some would argue with me on this but I will just tell you what I did and I assure you the sound is night and day. I had them hooked up to an Ashly MFA 8000 initially. The MFA does 750 watts into 8 ohms. We both know watts don't really matter because we don't have to listen at full blast and headroom never hurt anything. I Figured, What would it sound like if I hooked up another MFA, so I bridged each 707 to each amp. So each 707 has its own MFA which is somewhere around 2400 watts per side and maybe 5000 total if one considers that the lsim measure closer to 6.7 ohms on the meter. I actually don't listen to them very loudly, I just wanted to see if I could get some more control over them with some higher current. Let me tell you, the speaker is new again. I have never heard anything like this in my life. I know it sounds crazy that it would make so much of a difference, but it did. The phantom image they are creating is freaky. The image has come out of the speaker, it literally does not sound like what I am hearing is coming from the speakers. My theory is a little rough because I don't quite understand, but from reading some forums I think I have an idea. So the MFA 8000 amp is Class ab. It is a fully balanced dual mono block with individual switching transformers with mechanical signal grounding. With class ab there will be the push pull switching technique done within each side of the amp's internal mono blocks. When bridging, the second channel is inverted, and because it is dual mono class ab, the opposite sides push and pull opposite of each other when bridged. The speaker connected to the amp sees a middle ground between its "first watt" and the last watt in the transition. The amp effectively cuts the voltage drop in half, on top of which it sounds like a class a. I don't believe this will happen if its not dual mono class ab. Whatever the reason, The 707's apparently don't want to sing unless they have a gun aimed at their head like I did with the ridiculous amount of current I'm feeding them. Anyway if you stumble upon another pair someday don't be afraid to hook them straight into the power lines. They are phantom imaging so well that I ditched my center channel. Im not kidding either lol. Anyway I thought I'd share that with you, loving the content cant wait for more home audio stuff!
Wow, now that's some power there! Just don't catch them on fire 😉 and I hear ya on headroom and dynamics. I only have 125wpc from the Emotiva I'm using. I'll eventually be looking to get some more power, but the 1299s should still rock with their sensitivity so high. It's pretty crazy how much difference there is with some good clean power going to things, sounds like your 707s are rockin!
@@LifeofBliss lol I wont be catching them on fire as I don't turn them up very loud, well sometimes I do. Its pretty loud by the time the clip meter even registers. I mentioned the peak power of the Ashly MFA amps being about 5000 watts when bridged at 6.7 ohms but that would be impossible because the outlets in the wall probably cant go past 1800 watts even if there was no voltage drop but thats ok because Im not hooking them up that way for the wattage anyway. Just for the more robust current and I think the 707's need it because of that problem with the mid range. The 6.5 is on the same crossover with the oval woofers and if there is not enough juice, I think the woofers steal all the current and the leave the 6.5 a little high and dry. Initially there was some lack of depth in vocals and it sounded a little thin as well. Basically the lows and the highs were not meeting in the middle because the midbass was too soft with the ovals acting power hungry, and there are two of them vs the one 6.5. I hope to soon built a separate room for a theater like you are doing but I need to buy another house first. probably next year, My thoughts are 6.6.4.1, 6 floorstanders like I am using now, (707's in front and back with 705's on the sides) with no center. Then the next .6 for the height channels (lsim 703's in front and back height with 702fx on sides). Then the .4 being the 4 ceiling speakers which I have not purchased yet, and the.1 for mono LFE in the rear. I have a few subs but the 707's go so low I don't need surround subwoofers, just the effect which means mono will be fine. I could probably get away with some seat transducers but I don't think it will be the same. Probably will go with 4 psa's. I was watching youthman's channel and that 18 looked pretty damn linear. I have pleny of Ashly, Peavy, and Qsc amps so Im good there. It should be insane and I cant wait. I will keep you posted if you want. Anyway thanks again for the cool content and I look forward to the next.
Heck yea let me know! That sounds like a hell of a system! Youthman has some pretty good stuff, I watch him as well. Hopefully I'll be able to keep up with that 18 when I'm done 😉
I know measurements and an objective based analysis won't cater for many of your viewers but it will separate your channel from the rest of the field. Your a delight to watch and you do many things that us DIY'ers enjoy learning and watching, plus we truly enjoy your beautiful family and daughter who take part in your hobby. But the subjective aspect doesn't allow us to really understand the quality of the products you have chosen. You do chose affordable products but how good are they really? For example, we know for a fact that 99.9% of PA type amplifiers measure horribly, and it goes without saying that a Chinese clone that is over engineered, better quality, better made at about 1/4 the price beats anything on the market. Yes, it doesn't measure well either, but nor does the competition. Now, if you bring in pure measurements then we know exactly the quality of the product at hand at what price point. Then companies that are confident with there engineering will advertise with you knowing that there gear will get a good rap regardless. I recommend you send your equipment bought to ASR you might be disappointed to see so many products failing miserably on a sound quality scale(ei. distortion, SINAD) but you either entertain or you pursue the quest for competently engineered gear. Disclaimer, I am not an expert advisor in audio, business or for CZcams but food for thought.
Thanks for the input man. This was my first video on the amp. Theres a recent video on it that goes over the performance more, and the subwoofer videos show rew measurements. Outside of REW, I don't really have the equipment to measure things. I left a link to someone who did some testing on the amp on the newer video though. Long story short, these are serious amps. About 2000w rms per channel and 4000w burst.
@@LifeofBliss I got a random Chinese amp as well for subwoofer duties class TD and it rocks. Then I bought a cheaper class D and no where near as good. Again, I don't have measuretns either but not bad at all for the price I got it for. Regarding taking measurements, yes I understand its beyond our scope and a lot of extra effort, I was just thinking if sending to a third party will give you edge thats all. I cant see the link you've posted? Ill check out the next vid!
Here ya go. Check in the description, avs forum member did the testing czcams.com/video/9ant482mb5s/video.html
A 30A 220 breaker will trip at about 6Kw, and even altogether - doing the math on those caps - they will be evacuated in about 3/4ths of a second at that much pull. You'd have done better to run a single of the 24's off that amp to prevent a current under-run (read: distortion), rather than trying to drive 2 or 3 of them.
What size circuit did you end up running to it?
240v 30a breaker. I've ran 3 of the 4 channels to blipping the clip light and it hasn't skipped a beat. I'll have an update video in the near future, getting a few other things done first
Life of Bliss given how dynamic music is, I can see that being feasible, how breakers work and there trip curve. I doubt you ever run into problems. Maybe one day I’ll get to check one of these amps out. Definitely jealous. Great job by the way.
@@Gcrilla thanks man. If you ever need crazy amounts of power, these will get you some
What is the Voltage & current flow.
Through the speaker wire? I don't know, dont have the tools to read that
Did you research the best Chinese company to purchase the FP from? I bought a few of the FP10Qs about 7 years ago from a company researched on the AVS forums and they still work running my 10 21” subs.
Yea there were a lot of threads on Avsforum I looked at. Many had bought this particular amp from Sinbosen and had good luck so it was considered the one to get
That's a heck if a setup you got btw!
Thanks! Me and “The Lion”, Walter, are in the middle of designing my HT2.0 for Trinnov Altitude32. Should be ripping out my old wall any time and replacing all the JTRs with Quested LT20s and Z8s for surrounds. Getting excited! I also posted a question about the amp draw on your new amp. Have you found out what it’s claimed max amp draw is?
Those altitude processors are nuts man, that's going to be awesome!! Here's a link to someone who has done some testing in the 22k which uses the same power sources. Just a different amp board. About halfway down the page. It's a good read and has a lot more information than what I went over here. www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
How much do they run about?
Like I said, all depends on the current exchange rates and shipping to your area. It was almost $900 for me
Insane wattage but the point is how it sounds ?
For sub duty these amps do well. Many have tested and used them for that purpose. Depending on the model, they don't work well for full range setups due to a high noise floor.
@@LifeofBliss
Thx :-)
nice men
i'm curious how much that amp costs.
I talk about it in the video, probably 800-900 depending on exchange rates
Don’t know why you need that huge wattage amp for a HT. This is a class D amp and for me I won’t used below class AB amp for sound quality.
For the 3 24 inch subwoofers that are 2000w rms each. These will do just fine for sub duty 😉
yagballs - You’re kidding, right? First, he is driving monstrous DIY Subs/speakers that require huge wattage! Second, you are waaay behind the curve on amp classification/sound quality relationship analysis!
Many of today’s top amps are Class D! Class A/B amps were considered sonically superior for most of the audiophile era. However, over the past decade, or so, Class D amps (especially ones with Hypex Ncore modules) have surpassed many of their A/B brethren (in H/T applications with all channels driven)! Efficiency of a well designed class D will result in lower noise and much lower heat and produce a very neutral sound! I have owned Mark Levinson, Krell, Parasound, and many other marquis amps (my company custom installs home theaters) over the last two decades and I have to say that my class D ATI AT54xNC amps sound as good as any of the above mentioned amps! A $3k multichannel class A/B amp would be sonically destroyed by a $3k multichannel class D amp! You don’t have to believe me, research it!
Wish they has prices on their site.
I know. You'll have to email them to get an exact quote, but expect around $800-900 shipped
Fans are installed the wrong way around for a L-G counterfeit. All should be front to back.
18000w on a plug that can only put out 4800w max...?
Capacitors are your friend... 😉 Its burst power, not rms.
@@LifeofBliss the thing is those amps would do this as rms power
How do you have your subs wired??
I sub per channel, 12 gauge wire. 4 ohm loads
@@LifeofBlissAny chance of a review on the amp? curious about it's performance, noise level as in ground floor hiss, also heat and fan noise. I'm looking into changing from crowns to a FP20000q
@@keithiegee1 yea I'm going to try to get a video out relatively soon. But long story short, it's a beast of an amp, but the fan noise is pretty darn loud. You'd want it in an equipment closet of out of the listening area
I have 4 subs two run 8ohms load & 2 run 4ohms .would this amp let me run all four channels with two different ohms loads ?
Yes this amp will do different ohm loads on each channel. 4 ohm is the lowest you should run it.
Obviously this guys does not know what inside the amp casing, are those mosfets on that blue board, how much storage do those caps offer, is the amp bipolar as well etc etc. ANyway its a review, I have no idea why anyone outside of commercial applications would need this amp.
Usually they would use it to power high end subwoofers... 🙄
2250x4 @8 ohms ??????????? ,a power outlet can only put 1800 watts, how you connect that thing, perhaps it has its own breaker box.
Actual power has been tested at 2000w x 4 continuous, 4000w x 4 burst. This is connected to a 240v 30a outlet. These have a ton of capacitors for burst power in them.
@@LifeofBliss that's crazy 😲
Can anyone tell me how this company amps work over all
www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1 here are some test results. Many have used the amp with larger drivers and had good luck with them
That amp won’t be quiet..the fans make a lot of noise..for my living room I have a stack of Yamaha p7000s they are amazing the fans never kick on never..only if you are playing music after sometime they start spinning and of course you can’t hear them the fans are so quiet..
Sounds like a small single engine plans taking off. But in separate room from the listening area, it doesn't matter 😉
Is this UL listed?
It's from China... so... 😅
That shit can blow your house down lmao
Yes. Yes it can lol.
Labgruppen copy???? In china they can put your name on the amplifier if you want to
Fp 20000 amp is a PA amp ,this is not for home theater
Many people use it for home theater. You just need bigger subs 😉
Update on this Amp ?
Just posted a video on it
I want a macrotech 2400 1:38 😳
How much did you pay for this amp
I mentioned in the video they will cost around $800-900 depending on the exchange rate and import/shipping fees. You'll need to email them for an exact cost
@@LifeofBliss im also buying this amp i got in touch with this beautiful lady DAN i hope is the same dan you mention in video BUT. Please Tell me more about do you any problems with?? How would this amp compare to the real LAB GRUPPEN wich is made in sweden ??? What part will get bad in these amps ??? Is not like the older amp where they have this heavy coil inside???since you have for a while now does it really delivers the power they clain? DAN told me i will be able to conect 8 18" 18lw1400 from 18sound ??? I will apreciate your if you can tell me your experience with amp PLEASE
I have actually not even hooked it up yet as I haven't got my subs finished. Here is a link to some testing done on the 22k which has the same power supplies www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html
You might have to upgrade your service to a 200 amp
Most newer house are 200amps. 100-150-175amp kind of went away, I've seen 2000sqft houses with 400amp services.
Hahaha, just have it delivered to your brother's house.
20k. Wishful thinking.
Yea I know, fun to dream I guess... here's some testing results with the 22k that has the same 2 power supplies if you are interested. 8k watts rms continuous and 16k watts burst power www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
I am willing to bet the specs are fudged and seriously doubt the quality of that amp being a Chinese brand! I would go with a Crown brand amp any day before going with a Chinese brand!
Here's some testing done one the 22k which has the same 2 power supplies, just a different amp board. Not going to do 16000 rms for sure, but burst power is right around there. Still plenty of power. Crown makes good stuff. I own an xps1000. Just can't get anywhere near the coat per watt as this amp. www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Dude opens up the amp , has no ideea at what hețs looking at :)))fiy the parts quality of this copy is sub par with the original + the schematic they use are a guess-timate of what they think it should be , hope it dosent catch on fire like others
Green With Envy speaks
18.000
Wtf
In my country only theare of 6000 wts , 2 outs
U.u
Yea it's a beast... after seeing some test results from another individual, it's closer to 16,000w burst power, 8000w rms over the 4 channels, but still impressive
That is a replica of Lab.Gruppen 4 channel , its a professional commercial sound grade amplifier thats why it has XLR ins/outs. www.labgruppen.com/Categories/Labgruppen/FP%2B-SERIES/FP-10000Q/p/P0CN7#googtrans(en|en)
Correct. These are commonly known as "clone amplifiers" due to the similarities
Wow- for the cost of what I paid for the Crown XTi6002 (also Chinese made), I can get TWO of these??????
Yea man... the cost to performance ratio is really unmatched. Obviously you are dealing with a Chinese company, but they have taken care of others that have had issues. And the main issue I know of was a fried amp board, but the guy was purposely pushing it past it limits. They sent him a new board, just paid shipping.
@@LifeofBliss they're basically disposable
cant really judge this situation cause I have no clue what your little sub specs are. Im going to take a stab in the dark and say your not lacking power, your lacking subs. Two 18" high end subs will fill that basement for sure.
Yes I am definitely lacking subs. But I should have the solution soon. My most recent video I unboxed 3 24" subs that I will be powering with this amp. Should do the trick 😉
I don't know how your whole setup is but a bit of good advice for great sound, I use a 10" powered sub @ 100hz for behind my entertainment center, then I have 8" powered sub @ 60hz but in reverse and this sub is placed behind me (back part of living room). I get outstanding sub responses this way. This setup shakes the hell out of my house, now with you having 3 24" inchers....holly cow.
Great Amp, I bought lots of stuff from this company. We all already know that nothing much is made in the USA anymore. 99% are made in China. Original Lab G. Would cost you about $4000 or more
Yea it's a huge savings and a lot of people seem to have had great experiences with this company and amp
How much was this unit?
Awesome price for what you get, only $1000...
I love you said the have taken tech from lab lol. I think stolen is the word your looking for.
16000 watt on 240 volt 🤔🤔🤔 66 amps minimum !!
Yea I know lol, that won't be constant power. Looking at probably half that for all channels. But burst power should be pretty impressive. Here's some testing done on the 22k that has the same 2 power supplies www.google.com/amp/s/www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1780914-measuring-amplifiers-49.html%3famp=1
@@LifeofBliss Do you use a step up transformer for 110 to 240v
@@karthickmurugan8648 no I ran a dedicated line from the breaker box
@@LifeofBliss thank you for a quick response
Ok I’m gonna say it... I’m scared of high power amplifiers
😁🤘🏼
Trop de blabla !! On ne voit même pas la face arrière
🤣🤣🤣🤣
So you bought a cheap knockoff instead of the real deal from LAB Gruppen. Thumbs down for you.
I'll be sure to throw this one away as soon as I receive your donation to buy the real deal. Thanks Kris