Is PEX Plumbing Bad? PROS and CONS of Installing PEX
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2022
- Is PEX Plumbing Bad? PROS and CONS of Installing PEX - Learning the BASICS of Plumbing
Installing PEX pipes is a great way to improve the efficiency of your plumbing, but there are some things you need to know before you make the switch. In this video, we take a look at the pros and cons of PEX piping so that you can make an informed decision about whether or not it's right for your home.
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I’m a master plumber up in North Carolina and I personally like pex B better. You do have the flow restrictions from the fittings, but as long as you run a trunk and branch method, meaning each fixture has a dedicated 1/2 inch water line coming from the hot or cold branch, you never experience a flow restriction
I been using pex for years here in Canada, as it handles extreme cold very well in comparison. It's pretty much standard here now. Copper has been very hard to get and ridiculously overpriced when you can find it. I like using 1 inch for risers, and main branch runs, 3/4 for tubs/showers and hose spigots, 1/2 for pretty much everything else. We also use a lot of pex bend supports when we need to turn 90 degrees instead of elbows. This way gives best flow rate and balances system pressure better. Still have to solder often though, for shower valve assemblies, boilers, water heaters, hydronic air exchangers other mechanical etc.
Oversizing hot water supply lines, even just the branches, adds hot water delay and increases energy waste. When sizing branches for hot water, it makes sense to select the smallest size that meets the demand at the fixture(s). Oversizing cold supply lines is less of an issue, but in the case of a non-thermostat mixing valve (such as a pressure balancer or simple mixer), it can cause the set point to move in temperature after it seems set (because the cold water temperature in the lines will drift up toward the conditioned space temperature).
Roger, thank you for doing these PEX videos. I've used copper all my life but I love PEX A for the ease of working with.
You pretty much nailed it. I use Pex B, but when trading out 1/2" copper for Pex, I use PexB 3/4" because of the inside diameter and flow restriction.
Why not just use pex A? Is it harder to get in your area?
@@JL-fq3jc pex a junk
@@Retarded229 What a well-articulated and argued point.
The only thing I don't agree with as a con is it not looking professional. It wil look mint and clean if properly secured by an attentive plumber, and if showcase-level cleanliness of look is a person's thing, it's still much faster and cheaper to fit a 90 onto it just like you would copper, and instead of soldering and braizing and the whole process, 2 crimps + a J-clip to secure and on you go.
On the flip side the freeze resistance isn't a pro really; in our area by code pex can't enter the garage space or an exterior wall (in case someone accidentally leaves the garage door open, and exterior walls because....exterior walls). That said, in Canada obviously we get months at a time where it could present an issue so better safe than sorry. Even with insulation because it's never worth the risk. That said it's extreeeemely easy to run through joists and studs and still be out of the way of other trades.
I am curious on your thoughts though on installing it the right way as I haven't seen any issues with running it through joists and branching off and into walls for fixtures which is what our company of roughly 100 journeymen does. It's out of the way of anything which will penetrate it, can be kept away from other trades with a little communication which you're likely to do anyway. Just curious on your approach.
i love my milwaukee pex expansion tool. 1 of my favorite tools on my rig. i mostly use uponor PEX a expansion fittings for underground water main re routes here in arizona, and also re routes in attics. but I do sweat most of my jobs with copper most of the time
Roger Ever since you first talked about PEX A being the one to be using, I bit the bullet and bought the Milwaukee expansion tool. I haven't regrated it ever. It is my replacement plumbing of choice.(unless requested to use copper). 48 out of 50 times its PEX A
Even with the shortage on supplies, I always had want I needed to make the repairs on hand.
Thanks Roger for being a big influence on how to make the repair correct the first time.
The only problem I have with the Milwaukee battery tool is that I only have Makita batteries and tools, and for the little bit I did it wasn't worth getting a battery tool. If I had to do more than a hose bib fix, or anything larger than 3/4" I think I'd drop the money on the tool battery and charger.
You name one copper manufacturer that stands behind a 50-year warranty. You could send them every water sample you could get your hands on, you could rip apart every fitting to prove you read the pipe cleaned it correctly so on and so forth. Never had a copper manufacturer stand behind their product.
Pex on the other hand I've seen manufacturers know when they had a faulty product stand behind it and warrant it. Also another idea on training apprentices and young plumbers, train them to run packs like you ran copper. Don't use manifolds and stations. Run it and design it like it was a copper system with the fittings and everything, you'll just end up using less 90s than you would with copper but all the same tees and layout
I agree with you 100%. I still run most houses here in Ga. the same as I did with copper. I haven't noticed the benefit with smaller houses running manifolds. Once they get a bit larger (the ones that have fixtures shipped in from Europe, tiles from Italy...you know the ones) I'll throw manifolds/pumps in there to make sure I can get the volume where I need it to be, and there is most always a mechanical room in those houses.
Manifold type installations have more to do with design and layout of the home than type of material.
I’m plumbing a new house in Copper for the first time in 19 years, to be honest it’s kind of fun, however when the sun popped out I remembered I needed to have a spray bottle and a fire extinguisher at all times! 🔥 my favorite part was watching my apprentice realize he had to make exact measurements and cuts..
I love PEX! B of course!
My problem with PEX is it’s taking the art out of PLUMBING . But I realize it is saving so much money for the contractor and the homeowner.. so at the end of the day I have to understand the purpose of plumbing is to remain sanitary..
so I’ve made up my mind I am A plumbing artist and I make PEX look good and serve its purpose!
When you do copper it is a source of pride how it comes out. A lot of fore thought because it isn't cheap but I just hate the way PEX looks on long runs. I usually put everything together ( tip use a block of wood to space everything even) cleaned and fluxed . A 3 bedroom house has what 50 joints that is 30 minutes when you get your groove on. I'm old now get off my lawn
I lost the 3/4 copper cold water circuit under the slab 6 months ago. Did a reroute with Pex A mainly because the attic is full on paper "fire retardant" insulation. Worked beautifully, the only regret was as a home owner I originally bought the hand operated expansion tool. Life became much easier when I bought the 12 volt Milwaukee expansion tool, well worth the money. If anyone wants the mechanical tool hit me up, I'll cut you a deal.
Ever sell your expansion tool?
@@dallinbagley4486 No, still sitting here.
I'm glad Roger mentioned training. I know some guys out there who are able to survive with labor being so short because its comparatively easy to train someone to work with PEX. The downside is that if they are on a renovation job or something like that, and they have to tie into a copper pipe, work stops until someone with the experience to do it is able to show up.
Soldering is not hard to learn though. I don’t see how someone can’t pick it up in a week. Obviously won’t be the cleanest or fastest, but it’s rather easy to learn.
Roger thanks for another great video clearing up the differences between Pex A and Pex B. I'm still nervous over the 25-year warranty, as we have Polybutylene piping in our 1993 house, banned since 1995, my neighbor is paying $30,000 for a repiping this week, as no insurance company will insure them. Now all houses built in 1990s with CPVC have shattering pipes and paying $20k for repiping. I am so worried that in 20-25 years, all Pex people will be paying $50k for repiping, and Pex will be banned. It's like they never learn from history.
You didn’t give a reason for why Pex might be banned. Pex isn’t Polybutylene. You just displayed that you have an irrational fear.
We are seeing a huge uptick in CPVC repipes from houses built in the late 90s and early 2000s, we are also seeing CPVC pipe become brittle after only 10 years or so, not enough to completely shatter, but enough where it will crack when you try to cut it. On the flip side of things we aren't seeing the same trend for PEX houses built in the same time period, only some manabloc change outs. The PEX piping going to the blocs look and cut like new however the old style blocs are having issues, primarily seized or leaking valves, time will tell with the new blocs, but they're easy enough to change out if needed. In short there is no perfect pipe or system, but PEX seems to be the best that's available. I still prefer copper for aboveground water services tho, much more resilient to UV Rays and weed eater string.
If you want to live in fear do it. But for me at least your neighbors will be worry free for 25. Years. Your choice
All I got to say cpvc all day everyday pex needs to be outlawed like poly it would get rid of half the hack plumbers. It’s really sad when people are paying ridiculous money for pipes to be flapping in the wall
Cpvc does not get brittle. Cpvc gets more rigid to handle increases in pressure better. If it cracks while you are working on it, it's because you don't know how to handle the pipe
here in Denmark we have used only pex for at least 25 years..works like a charm.
A great reason for using pex up here in the hills for well water, when you have acidic water it eats up copper causing pin holes in pipe and now your also drinking copper,Not good,being a well pump plumber, testing water ph before plumbing a house is very important, Eric from Sierra water Systems 👍
I generally use the red and blue pex with the pinch clamps and a manifold on new construction and go with the copper on existing jobs. The reduced flow has always disturbed me but strangely I’ve not had any negative feedback!
I used a 3/4 pex B line from the city supply in my basement to my manablock then 1/2 from all of the ports on it to each fixture. Using one solid line with no fittings except the start and the end was the way to go so much more pressure than the way it was.
I have used PEX A the last 15 yrs . Zero problems. I'm cutting type L thick copper out with pinholes every day. No one remembers where they got their copper pipes 25yrs ago. With PEX you also make smaller and less holes when re routing or replacing existing homes. Saves the customer even more than just material and labor. Too many pros not to use PEX.
What do you think about my set up?
I installed a Viega Manabloc manifold for my plumbing, replacing all the copper in the house. I installed it to be a "home-run" system where the only fitting points for the pipe is at the manifold and at the shut off valve. Absolutely zero fittings in between.
Have you read about Uponor latest problem? It appears the way way they added the color to the pipe, causes stress cracks at the joint. Class action lawsuit in couple of states already. Uponor denies any problems.
Again ..... gotta say what a terrific job you do on these vids ... they are a HUGE delight to watch and superbly informative. Hope your week goes perfectly and thanks again!
Thank you very much! I'm glad you liked it
@@RogerWakefield is it true that Zurn PEX B is better than Uponor PEX A on a. Failure rate? Are both installed the same?
Would like to see you do a video about the research done into the pex b failing. Read an study done about pex b failing in chlorinated water very similar to polybutylene. If the pex is flexed it causes micro cracks and allows chlorine to degrade the pex. Pex a is more flexible and not subject to failure due to chlorine
This is very very interesting. Thank you, everyone for commenting your experience with the stuff. An thank you Roger for making the video.
I just redid my house plumbing with PEX A. I live in a 2240 sqft double wide. It was still a job to maneuver under the house but so much easier than with copper or or PVC. Not to mention cheaper. Cost me $300 to redo the whole house, but it does help my buddy had the spreading tool, so that save me $220-400, depending on brand.
I use PEX A I’m from uk I think it’s brilliant to be far
Is PEX plumbing SAFE? We have issue with plastics being estrogenic; now we've replaced our Copper with plastic... What's your take, Roger?
Copper is very estrogenic
Great video, Roger. Really helpful! Thanks.
Roger 💪 great quality video bro!
We've been building 8+ bathroom "cottages" with Pex A for years- with the size of these places we make a point to home-run every fixture from the manifolds, and the goal is to use zero fittings between the manifold and fixture. Nothing more satisfying than setting a handheld shower to "levitate"
Recently bought a home and have had to do a number of plumbing fixes/changes and pex made it incredibly easy. Push-to-connect fittings took me maybe an hour and $180 to change out shower fixtures as opposed to the much higher cost of copper and waiting for and paying a plumber to run copper (I know myself and soldering copper fittings is not in my patience threshold). I plan to change out my incoming waterline in the next year or so as it's a pretty small diameter and old, and pex it my plan as of now
Pex-A is very easy to install. But what about water quality? Does the plastic leach into the and contaminate drinking water? How does it compare to PVC in this respect?
Had to re-pipe my homes and did Uponor Pex-A. Copper is nice, but Using the bends vs. 90 makes for less restriction and turbulence in the pipe. There were so many elbows in my copper that the water pressure at the far end of the house was easily a few PSI lower than near the main entrance. Now there are mostly Pex bends and the water pressure at fixtures at a lower PSI feel strong than before.
Copper is worth the cost if you or your heirs plan on keeping the house due to its longer lifespan. Not a fan of plastics when you’re dealing with freezing or heat
Wouldn’t freezing be a big drawback to brittle copper?
I have used PEX B for the last 7 years. It is easily available where I am at(I don't have to special order it). I was using PEX A in Australia for close to 10 years before that. There is a definite flow reduction when using PEX B fittings. We have always sized accordingly to mitigate that issue. PEX B is not as flexible as A, and you TRULY realize that when it starts getting cold outside, but it is a little bit tougher.
Something to note: Copper pipe has that 50 year warranty if you are putting PURE water through it. If the water has anything in there that might be corrosive it will eat it up fast. There is a lot of private water supply(wells) in my area, because of the ground here, it eats copper up. Your water actually comes out green if you don't use the fixture for a bit because of the copper corrosion. Another thing to note: PEX is rated for commercial uses like you said, but the fire marshal can shut that down in a heart beat. Just like you cant run PVC in some commercial buildings(because of possible fire damage), they HATE PEX. I have been arguing that with them for years.
One thing most people don't point out about pax is the electrolysis problem in brass and copper fittings on the distant end. Means replacing shower heads every few years and shower valves every 4 to 5:00
I feel like Roger and I would get along. Both of us are the same age, and both of us seem to just like metal pipes. I'm officially an old dude! Set in my ways. The other day I had to do reroute some gas line. I used some black steel pipe, and broke out my hand threader. Threading pipe and installing some old-school gas line was therapeutic.
Hey Roger
the way i will use the pex is that i will use the pex there got another pipe around it, so if the pex ever will get a hole in it u will be able to pull it back and push a new pipe in there. and i will also only use the pex where u cant see it and connect it in a Roth QuickBox 15mm. that way i will always have 2 ends that i can disconnect and get the old pipe away and lay a new one without breaking a wall or the floor.
also i live in Denmark and we dont really use cobber that much cuz of the prices and the time. if we drag pipe anywhere where u can see it, we will use rustfree steel if its water and normal steel if it the heatering system. BUT if we connect it to an old system where we have to connect it to old galv pipes we will not use rustfree steel cuz it will eat up the old pipes.
the ting we will do insted will be using Aluminuim pex for that. its more solid than normal pex but can still bend. and we dont want that so we have to put up way more holders for the pipe so that does not happen.
if u dont know any of these materials then i will recomend u to check them out if u can.
and roger keep up the nice Vids now to see how u do it in america
I've had plumbing problems before, I've seen my water pipes literally busted and squirted water everywhere but any Plex pipe I've never seen them bust I've only saw the fitting leak. Plex pipe could probably last year's with the right fittings
I been a plumber for 12 years and i been using pex.A for.the whole time and also i had one customer wanted Pex A and with brass fitting which makes it very good system in their house . so far is been 6 years and no.issue at all
Another very informative video as always. I work on the architecture side here, so what are your thoughts on replacing PEX piping at its end of life? I’ve heard talk of being able to attach a new length of pipe to the old one and snake it through all the attachment clips as you pull the old length of pipe out, _if you use a single run from manifold to fixture without splicing._ I’ve never seen it personally, so I’m wondering if that’s actually possible in a practical manner or not.
Replacing copper piping requires opening a whole lot of the walls and ceilings up. If you could snake new PEX in after the old similar to wires through a conduit, that dramatically reduces the demolition work needed to replace the piping down the line. Most general and subcontractors love PEX for replacing old copper pipes during renovations in my market. But if I can go place 2-3 access panels to completely rip out and replace PEX supply lines without having to remove GWB, well that would be a game changer and probably give me reason not to specify copper at all in the future lol. Big IF of course…
I have copper in my house that was built in the 1960's. I'm going to replace the hose bibs with Aquor House Hydrants. I plan on using PEX-B and Sharkbites to to connect them to the current copper pipes. The biggest draw back to PEX-A is the cost of the expansion tool, for someone looking to do it themselves. I don't think the extra 25 years on the copper warranty matters as much, when it's so easy to replace a section of PEX.
You would be better off sweating on pex adapters and avoid the shark bites
I can't wait to see that 20-year PEX testing where they seal the water inside and leave it and then come back and check it in 20 years and see how much plastic has leached inside
That's easily avoided by not consuming water that's been standing in pipes for several years ...
I have seen mice chew thru pex over time. Trying to get thru a whole that the pex runs thru.
That’s a rodent problem, not a plumbing problem.
@@seanm3226 agreed, but mice get into most homes, I've never seen a mouse chew thru copper lines though.
The key for PEX are home runs and reduction in connections in my experience
I was unaware copper is 50 year, but there is different thicknesses of copper, I always get the thicker type but have removed copper from homes that was the thinner variety. Long term gonna be interesting to see how Pex A stands up to and or surpasses the 25 year warranty. Flow restriction is interesting, obviously Upunor type A fittings are king but look at shower valve ports, they are tiny. Flow restrictors in the shower heads, ect create the biggest issues with flow rate IMO. When you go expansion there is more fight to make it through flow restrictions at fixtures for sure. thus making Expansion and type A King Kong but Copper is still best for fullest port. Copper is still awesome but it's very expensive and time consuming to install if done properly, With that said Copper is going down right now, probably gonna buy the dip, I'm close to out of 1/2"
I just put on an addition on my 50 year old home. I had to remove some copper pipe and it was still in like new condition. I think the degradation of copper may depend on what is in your water. Where I am at, no issues.
Got to use copper use the thicker pipe
@@dennisyurconis742 sure it depends on the water . Even old galvinized i8n places with good water lasts many decades sometimes of cource The old pipe was likely better quality than todays
I'm not a plumber but PEX seems so simple I feel like I could do a repipe lol
You could, I did at my house and it was not rocket science. I’m not a plumber. No leaks works awesome
Pex makes diy work much easier. Theres other factors than running and connecting pipe when doing plumbing
@@R900DZ what happens when your house floods
@@R900DZ who’s fault it going to be🤦♂️
@@alexanderredlin8493 it’s been more than a year now with no issues. The pipes are strapped to the crawl space floor joists so Even if there’s a leak there would never be a flood inside the house. I used uponor PEX A with the milwaukee tool and I followed the code of strapping the pipes every 2-3 feet.
Hie Sir, thank you for the information,
So how is it on PEX to maintain,say we have got a leak on our system especially on a tight space,how easy/hard is it compared to maybe our traditional copper pipes
Roger, I live in Tennessee. Copper lasting more than 40 years here is almost unheard of. This is because we have more caves than anywhere else in the country, therefore much harder water than you have in Texas. Have you addressed this in a video yet?
I have addressed depending on where you're located you may have harder or softer water than here in Texas. I have not specifically mentioned Tennessee in a video though.
Roger can you please do a video on a gas stove install with threaded pipe and all what you’ll need for kitchen stove install?
Can you talk about Zurn Pex-B that is expendable? FYI Uponor Pex A has a Mfg Warranty of only 10 years.
Renovating a 52 year old apt building. Originally all copper. Material cost almost cancels out after scrapping the old copper. No way I’d be able to do the amount of updates within the budget without pex-a
well pex is really good europe uses it a lot but i think a good substitute for copper is stainless steel pipes this is just for those who are not ready to use pex
Can you tell me how to fix a moving shower arm without cutting a hole in the drywall Thanks
Daniel from central Mississippi
the one con that I have noticed with crimp style pex (pex b) is that you can miss a crimp or the crimp ring does not take then you can have a flood because of the water pressure blew the fitting out of the pipe. also, i heard a few months ago, in my state, the blue and red pex that you see at home depo is not recommended any more as there was a possible recall on it as it has been linked to many issues and malfunctions.
Completely missing a crimp ring is a lack of attention to detail...your body is on the jobsite but your head is elsewhere. If a crimp ring does not "take", this is generally a failure to read the tool instructions and follow the calibration instructions. Placement of the crimp is critical..."somewhere on the fitting" just isn't good enough.
Upon close examination, failures and malfunctions can generally be traced back to one or more of the issues above. Proper installation, observing the proper bend radius, protection from UV light, etc. also come into play.
Personally, I use two tools. I have a ratchet-type "one-hand" tool with a little indicator light. Handy, but I don't really trust it. Great for those times when you are trying to just get the stuff put together. My other tool is a two-handed "plier-type" crimp tool which is easy to calibrate. I generally use the first tool to lightly assemble the joints, then go back with the 2nd tool for the proper calibrated crimp.
I like pex especially for long runs or situations with a lot of bends. I love copper. I always do all the piping for my tubs/showers in copper.
I'm completely renovating my house, I am installnig PEX in the whole home.
I've heard you mention several times about upsizing PEX-B due to the insert fittings causing a flow restriction. Does this recommendation still stand if doing a homerun to manifold type install, as this reduces the number of fittings (thus reduces the number of flow restrictions) from source to fixture?
Copper water service and top out with pex
100%
The one thing I wonder is about PEX being bent vs copper 90s. Wouldnt there be a solid benefit of there being less turbulence (not sure if right term) inside the pipe if it's a single sweep vs a soldered 90? Further, any soldered joint could fail, so fewer joints = potential for fewer issues?
Do you get better waterflow with a PEX curve vs a copper 90 angle?
I’m replacing almost all of my Cooper lines with Pex B. My water coming in to my house is a 1” Polly pipe. Then I installed a ball valve and switched to 1” Pex B. From there I have a 1” - 3/4” Tee. One side goes to my water heater the other is a trunk and tree for cold and out of my water heater to a trunk and tree. The trunk is 3/4” copper which gets Tree’ed to 1/2” for each fixture. I’m thinking of making a manifold system a 3/4” inlet and 3/4” outlets with shut off valves all my fixtures a home run. What size would you recommend for the manifold trunk and the size of each home run lines? Should I run 3/4” or 1/ 2” Pex B home runs? Which one would give me the best water pressure?
Pex B for part of my run from the meter. I wanna do it all in Pex A though.
A major disadvantage of PEX that many people fail to mention, is if there is a presence of vermin or not.
We had mice chew through pex during a long cold spell, so they could get water.
FYI, you are incorrect about PexB... not every type of PexB uses couplers/fittings that restrict flow. Unlike the PexB made other manufacturers (e.g., Viega, Apollo, Everhot, etc...), Zurn Pex B specifically also uses the exact same type of expansion fittings that PexA does, so that there is absolutely no flow restriction. Also, for a number of reasons, Zurn PexB is objectively superior to PexA in pretty much every way. This is because although the exact same Uponor PexA pipe expansion tools can be used to install Zurn PexB (and vise versa), if you get/use the expansion tools that are specifically designed for use with Zurn PexB, you will find that they use an expansion head design that is much less stressful on the actual PEX pipe material. This ultimately leads to fewer failures at the pipe joints/connectors. Also, unlike PexA, which is broken down by Chlorine, and as a result is known to always leach a small amount of plastic chemicals into the water (though this leaching is admittedly slow and below govt requirements for such things), Zurn PexB does NOT leach any chemicals into the water at all. PexB is also rated for use with hot water recirculation pumps, whereas PexA is not. Lastly, Zurn PexB is known to have a significantly higher burst pressure at the connection joints than Uponor PexA.
Plumbed my house pex A 2 months ago. Not one leak. Took 12 hours with changing my well expansion tank and ripping old copper out in a crawl space. It is so easy with expansion gun.
What would be the advantage of using propress pex fittings and do I absolutely have to use the propress Pex pipe when using the propress pex fittings
It depends on where you live. If you could keep it warm during the winter months, people could get away with using copper or updated PVC pipe to run water. Find a good insulator for the small pipes, could run copper and PVC but pex is most definitely staying around.
Suggestion... tone the music back a bit. Great info being slightly obscured there... Thanks regardless. :)
Doing service side ive hand to learn to use both. When I bid and plan I prefer pex A. Cause it's better in my opinion. You did not cover how you can save a piece of pex A that been kinked with a heat gun.
Less connections = less frailer points. You can route pex so that there are no connections underground and if there's a problem you can easily abandon that line and run a new one in the ceiling.
your really should try welded PPR it have properties simmular to pex but its eliminate biggest disadvantage( Push fittings. ) and Man when im using something with flow restriction im choosing one size bigger if your pressure goes down, do reduction in stategic place 😉 (no instructions for that Emmet?) you showed me how to weld copper i can show you how to weld Poly Propylene Resistant (in some places peoples call them AQUA PLUS)
Hi Roger. I'm an apprentice plumber in my last year and I'm from South Africa. Once I'm qualified I'm wanting to move to a colder part of South Africa that freezes. Are there any tips you can give to protect plumbing in freezing weather.
Armaflex insulation. For copper
We use pex alot over here in North CA.
I like the way copper looks but most of our customers can not afford copper.
Due to our water PH we see alot of copper fail but then again most of my work is fixing another "plumbers" .
Don't forget about the Rat's!!
I would love to go with the PEX a but the tool required to expand the collar is ridiculously priced if it's going to be used just one time. I tried to find a rental but there does not seem to be any available. I am told that the manual units aren't suggested because they don't rotate and therefore leave areas of the collar that are not tight. Can you confirm or deny that?
I'm considering buying the tool because that's far cheaper than paying a plumber. The Milwaukee M12 kit is $400, and fine for anything under 1" pipe.
Was watching a show a while back where plumbers were going back and removing polybuthlene installed back in the late 80s early 90s. Any chance 10-20 years from now Pex A will have a similar issue?
I watched this other guy on u-tube (Joe Ludlow) he was bashing Uponor pretty good in that even the Uponor clear fails. What are your thoughts on this?
Installation work aside, what should a homeowner want inside their walls? PEX or copper piping? My contractor is planning to use PEX and I’m wondering about the longevity of it?
Personally I like copper..it looks cleaner and lasts longer…but pex is a good cheaper option
Isn't uponor blue and red recalled or stopped production bc the dye is causing the pipes to crack? That's why they only use white now
Hyperpure PE-RT from legend valve works like pex and has a 100 year warranty
What about health issues with leaching? (polyethylene into the water)
Maybe install filter at the faucet?
Thoughts anyone?
I recently plumbed my sprinkler setup with PEX. It has 140psi now. Should I be worried about that?
What is the environmental impact of pex?
What happens when pex gets hot is it a toxic vapor?
PVC recently was found to be extremely dangerous so instead of focusing on the benefits I think talking about the chemicals and risks due to heat are more important
What are your thoughts around the class action lawsuits regarding Pex A due to pipe failing from chloramine?
Pex makes doing topouts and setouts so much easier here in Texas.
Should I use PEX pipe on pump in my well
There are so many cons missed in this video... Firstly Pex is not uv stable, sooooo when it sits out on the job its being compromised.
Secondly, chemicals! Chemicals... Chemicals chemicals!
I won't list them all, but what we should be putting in houses is galvanized pipe.... When done right it lasts... Also the worst thing you're going to get in your water is stuff you probably need anyway
What about CPVC? Is it better?
I Been ROBBED... i was hoping for pictures of the messed up plumbing job LoL..
Also i have to agree with others.. Done right and seeing it curved looks better.. you get use to it.. I still ove working with copper, cause it shows who can do copper
right and clean.. Been using Pex A for around 21 years now. .BEST stuff, and ALL I will use..
Dont forget PEX A , if it kinks a heat gun ( a torch if you know how) will fix it..
sure beats CPVC Gold.
I like to see one with a compression fitting used on copper L
Wether its good or bad, its in my past house of 11 years, and in my current house, and will stay in it. What can a homeowner do when they buy a house and it has it in it already, rip it out?
PEX A has a semi smooth inner surface (i.e. dimpled) where PEX B is smooth and can be used in hot water recirc. loops. If you use Zurn PEX B or Sioux Chief PowerPex B then you can use cold expansion (full flow) fittings as well as crimp style.
I saw something about that in ASTM F1960...
What about the class action lawsuit for Pex A by Uponor? "Uponor / Wirsbo plumbing systems and fittings allegedly may fail when they are exposed to water because of a chemical reaction known as dezincification, which results in reduced water flow and leaks. Dezincified Uponor / Wirsbo plumbing systems and fittings cause damage not only when they burst and leak, but also impair the ability of a home’s plumbing system to effectively provide water to appliances and fixtures."
Tradesman but not a plumber. I have seen copper fail after 40 years on city water. I guess the warranty may be based on the new material factor and no one really knows.
Are you Pex A converts seeing the yellowing and cracking problems?
I have not noticed that
Ferguson carries TONS of Uponor Aquapex!
I prefer copper or metal pipes in my house. This plastic deteriorates rapidly when exposed to sunlight. All kinds of issues just to cut materials costs that will not be passed on to the person paying the bill. The only con you had was flow restriction and in the world of plumbing that would be a deal breaker and in reality there are a lot of cons to plastic.
I've been shopping for different types of plumbing. Pex A got my attention, but I looked at a vídeo from Integrity Plumbing. Have you seen the video? What's your opinion
I have not seen the video
@@RogerWakefield I trust your advice. The integrity plumbing video talks about a class action law suit against Pex A. I'd greatly appreciate it if you can research.
I have an old house that was ran with some odd sized copper 1/2" copper that was too small to even fit in the sharkbite, those lines ran a faucet a hot water heater and a toilet. I replaced them with 1/2 pex b because the old lines were ran under the concrete and always froze, I ran the pex line inside the house 6 inches off the ground on the wall. It was SOO much more flow then it was before. The old copper lines were bent in several places that almost looks like it kinked so im sure that and the diameter itself was a pretty horrible restriction. The only reason I did not go with 3/4" pex from the inlet was because the coupling on the main line just has 1/2" outlet, and I didnt realize the fittings reduced the line size that much before I got it. But I honestly have way better pressure and flow than I have had before, so I think the restrictions on most things now doesnt effect it when its on a 1/2" PEX line, BUT i would recommend using a 3/4" pex as a main line, and going with 1/2" to any thing except a hose bib, or something that takes a large amount of flow
i've been strictly using pex for the past 5 years now. Copper is more complicated to use especially for someone new to plumbing and for someone that's never solder. I've completely redid my water supply in my house with pex and was able to do it within a day. Most run was done without the use of any 90 elbows.
In regards to it not looking professional, most plumbing are behind walls anyway so you' won't even see it.