Fixed Angle vs Freehand Sharpened Knife - Which Cuts Longer!?
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
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I would say those are great results Pete especially for someone that hasn't been taking freehand super seriously for as long as you have fixed
a lowercase comment
Yeah, I thought so too. Was a very nice looking edge, and cut alot of rope. Would've lasted a good while for EDC use.
You did great Pete - there is a lot that goes into getting a crisp and stable edge by hand.
I’ve been doing it forever and the Maxamet blade I sent you broke an entire section of edge off after 500 cuts.
I called that a failure, and you told me “Don’t get discouraged, no failure - we’re just a couple curious guys twisting some knobs.”
It encouraged me heaps & I’d say the same to you bro, keep tweaking your sharpening protocols - you’ve got this.
Also I’m SO curious to see how the LC200N does now. And a bit nervous!
@@homeslicesharpening there really is, and it just takes one bad pass to really hurt you.
Larrin says your cut test results are meaningful and that there is real data there,I believe him,and I believe in you Pete.your only getting better at freehand,and I believe you are 3/4 of the the way there!
thanx man, i hope so!
@@CedricAda Id say, since the CATRA test uses 5% silica (very hard) impregnated cards, that makes the test more for pure abrasion resistance data. Especially since its being compressed into the apex by the rest of the stack.
Twisted sicile rope must be rather pure by contrast AND the wood table impacts help give an idea of apex stability. Combined data from Larrin and you will give the most accurate idea of properties.
I have never been more happy to have the 10-second skip feature on mobile than at the beginning of this video
Same... 😖🤣
I was fairly content with the slidey bar that took me straight to the results section.
I think the stones and grits could have played a part also. It would be interesting to do the test again but use the worksharp benchstone with the 320,600, and ceramic. Theyre the same stones that are used on the worksharp precision adjust. They are even replacable with the precision adjust stones. So you could do the same 3 on the precision adjust and same 3 on the benchstone and see exactly how much the results are influenced by your hand.
We are LOVING these videos, Pete! Actual real life content- refreshing!!!!!🎉😊
Straight bevel verses convex bevel. Even the steadiest free handers in the proffession still produce a convex edge compared to a guided system. Both have the pros and cons. Thanks Pete!
Been hand sharpening for years using a micro convex. It helps on hard "chippy" steels to retain a "working edge"...
You'll lose that razor-edge quicker, but there's a little more metal behind the actual apex...it's more pronounced on thick steel blades.
For wood processing tasks like batoning and feathersticking I prefer a convex edge, helps protect the edge and lets the blade skate along the grain without digging in too deeply. For everyday tasks I keep my folders right around 17 degrees.
@@LoreTunderin This.
Technically thinner profiles full slower, but in your case it must be subject to a lot more impact, which steeper will prevent that kind of damage from taking it out first. But for a cutting board only kitchen knife, shallower lasts longer until the steel just can't support the edge.@@firstjohn3123
Not just straight vs convex, also 17 dps vs 17-ish dps. If the apex angle of the first few microns on freehand version is actually, say, 19 dps, it's going to be *much* more resistant to chipping but also have much lower edge retention. To make it more comparable, I'd try 18 or 19 degrees on the Worksharp until it matches in edge retention, and then try to test the toughness of both edges by e.g. chopping some nails. Intuitively, a convex edge of identical edge retention ability to a straight edge should have better toughness.
Your edge retention videos are what caught my attention some 3 or 4 years ago? I can’t remember, I’m getting old.. But Comparing the different types of steels, it really brought into perspective how well each of them held an edge, and ultimately determined what I would spend my money on. I believe your edge retention test is where I got the most value from your videos. But this was an EXCELLENT representation of what I’m most likely getting when I freehand vs when I use my fixed angle sharpener. My freehand jobs are most likely worse than yours though... Even if my freehand looks and feels sharp straight off the stone, it most likely isn’t as good as the fixed...
But none the less, the value and entertainment that comes from your videos is second to none! Thanks so much for posting!
Thing with the board, is that it doesn't really matter because its just part of the experiment for your testing. In that way its universal to all your results because there's no unfairness to the other knives and different steels because they're all subjected to the same conditions, material and process.
*Pete putting two wildly different edges on the same knife and getting different results* (shocker)
Also Pete: "I am the problem"
For real tho. While the convexity matters, you put two very different edges on the same knife and there are only few steels that actually perform the same with different edges. I would bet, even if your free hand edge was perfect, the edge mostly sharpened by diamonds and finished way coarser with more deep scratches remaining, would still perform better.
For 'maintenance' type sharpening I start on either my #800 or #1000. The scratches are just too deep with sub 500 stones and it takes much more work to get rid of them. Re-profiling or removing a chip or snapped off tip sure the lower grits are great. But they IME are more repair/re-profile stones. Love your embracing the hand sharpening, there is a learning curve for sure but it's worth it. Once your are 6/10 or above you won't have a need for the jigs type sharpeners anymore. We just need to get U one of the Japanese male version of kimono with the waist band and you'll look the part. Love the mega close edge shots, I'm not sure If want my edges scrutinized by that lense 😂
Edit: Your going great on your freehand sharpening journey 750 is great score compared to fixed angle jig 950, it really is.
This is where I started great video:
czcams.com/video/Yk3IcKUtp8U/video.htmlsi=DCOC6TxLKDyogLkh
If you keep your knives fairly sharp, I suppose a 1000 grit stone or diamond plate would be fine for maintenance. Going from dull to sharp is a different story though.
Watching your videos has inspired me to buy three stones and try free hand sharpening. Wish me luck lol
His videos have inspired me to stick with my fixed angle sharpeners. Lol
Good luck 👍
Always using same materials, always fair, yes chopping board is in the way when you're rope testing the edges, and only guy who did notice that! I love your videos, thanks
Thank you. Great comparison of fixed VS freehand. Could you share images of edges after they fail your cut test? Very curious about what they look like compared to sharpened and polished edges. Thank you again.
Loving the content push your on. You been busy lately. Keep it up.. the knife community appreciates you more than you know.
I love that you're a metal head who is also a metal head. Love the content! I'm just starting my knife journey. First quality knife I ordered was a spyderco manix 2 in S110v!
The excellent knife lab science continues! I'm here for it
Great video as always. Appreciate you sharing. I think you did an excellent job with the freehand sharpening. I am also learning how to sharpen freehand. Sometimes I am more successful than others,but i keep it.
Hi Hi, you forgot option C. Using your favorite stones with an angle clamp, as satisfying as free hand but without any convex bevels. I have been using a clamp with adjustable legs for a while now and got good results. 🙃
Maybe you could have used the same stones free hand? It could be that the diamonds are leaving a more toothy edge than the ceramics?
The mad man made a video with this title after all these years. Youve trained your whole life in the outback with small dinosaurs. Be ready if actors sent by big sharpening come for you.
Great test Pete. Your obsessive thirst for knowledge has provided massive information on knife steels & sharpening.
The kinds of things I imagine doing but would give up or give out by the 400 - 500 cuts mark.
Take care of that shoulder, arm & it's joints !
I got my first shaving sharp edge from free hand last night, in part due to this journey you are on(And Alex at outdoors55 and a sharpener friend in the community)....the sharpal 325/1200 is a dream...
It would be pretty cool if you did some rust testing on the coated or DLC knives. Specifically spyderco black blades
Great comparison testing and musings on Magnacut. I wish you many peaceful moments of freehand sharpening in the woodshed in your pursuit of fixed angle sharpening parity or even superiority. I'm thinking of you, Michael Christy and BBB!
It was interesting to hear you could sharpen a 62 HRC steel with those Shapton stones. I have almost the same stones and I thought I need diamonds if I want to sharpen such steel.
good job mate i can see your enthusiasm again, nice test i have both sharping systems and i still prefer sharpening stones
An interesting thought might also be, how does stropping each edge after testing differ? A lot of sharpeners believe that stropping causes a slight convex, perhaps the convex edge is better overall to the completely flat V edge.
I have always been the guy at work that can sharpen your knife. I relied on a Lansky (fixed edge ) like a crutch for too long and I think I paid the price of not furthering me freehand skills for about 12 years. But after a reawakening brought on by outdoor55 and his videos on what steels do and what strops do. I have gone back to freehand and not without failures. But, Please, make a video of you stropping the blades back to paper slice and test again. I still think the new steel will out perform the old 440 Buck, but I think it would demonstrate how quick you can get this knife back into a ready to use sharp.
As a quick side note , I have used the back false clip edge to start pulling a nail, shouldn't the fact that you can use this steel for a scraper or screwdriver, and it might bend a little, but it doesn't shatter. how hard is too hard for edc?
Wonder if you did a full progression on diamond bench stones on maxamet? Perhaps its the abrasives themselves causing the lower numbers. Otherwise the result would usually be lower against a guided sharpener regardless of abrasives.
im ordering a couple decent higher grit diamond bench stones as my next step so will be interested in the comparison for sure
Did you measure edge angle close to the apex? You should try that, and if its higher than intended, just sharpen lower to begin with when freehanding. If you then get the intended angle, you can see how long it really lasts.
One wont ever get a perfect V edge when freehanding, thats why you should adapt in a logical way like just starting lower, instead of having unrealistic goals of having to get "better". 😊
Good vid. I think it's a hard test to beat a machine edge going head to head freehand. But well done great result. 😊
I'm loving all the great content lately.
A solid thick leather or hard rubber cutting board could help with your testing, I wonder if you went for a lower angle while free handing how many cuts you would get ...... and possibly spend twice as much time on your final stone ... the sped up rope cuts is satisfying to watch 👌
I use a plant spray thingy of water to keep essential parts suitably sloppy while on the job.
Hi Pete, this was a really interesting test, really been enjoying these different testings lately. I’ve learnt a lot, keep up the good work, and hopefully you don’t get RSI in that wrist or shoulder.
"... your humanness... ". I think I heard Bricky snicker in the background!
I’m always down for a Ticks and Leaches scream. Soothes the soul ya know.
Or was that The Grudge. I’m slipping back into the gap again.
I strongly prefer microconvex/microbevel
More stable, still good cutting performance for easily getting through material, and importantly it's easy to refresh that microbevel at the very edge! If you don't have any rolling or chips it's like 4 swipes on a strop or fine stone away from getting back to hair whittling sharp!
Great job Peter!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH D: I died. I should have seen the scraping coming in the beginning but I also thought, "no, pete is not that evil"
Your freehand skill is impressive. I’m too cheap to buy stones and a fixed angle system so I’m stuck sharpening the Uncle Randy way. It works great for ALL my knives though, pocket knives, kitchen knives and straight razors can all be done on stones.
I have noticed myself conveying the heck out of some edges when I first started. Now (after years of practice)I have really reduced that problem. I have also noticed that using aggressive stones like diamond reduce the amount of convex in my edges because it takes fewer strokes to do the job. Keep up the entertainment. I love watching other guys struggle to improve.
One reason for the difference could be the abrasives used. Perhaps the diamond abrasive produces a better base edge on MC to then be refined with the ceramic and strop. Or maybe because you finished at a lower grit with the system (~3k ceramic vs 8k ceramic stone) it gave that edge a bit more aggression. This will make your cuts through rope a little easier and may contribute to longer slicing edge retention. To talk compare your system and freehand edges, you need identical abrasives.
I always thought that a toothy edge would cut better. I suppose it depends on what you're cutting. like a bread knife is more like a saw than a fine edge.
@@WillEDC exactly, they generally do cut better for longer.
Maybe pushing the blade back and forth on the stones instead of using the elbow lifting method would give a more similar perfromance to the fixed angle sharpener
With my kitchen knives I realized that there is a significant difference between knives which cut against wooden boards (chefs knife) and such which don't. There is even a bread knife with serated edge, of which the top parts are dull and the valleys still have some kind of sharpness even after 20 years of use.
I think you did excellent on this test. You've also inspired lots of people to dip their toe in freehand sharpening, and told us about a tool (that Worksharp piece of kit) that can help us learn.
I was hoping you would do this. 😊
Hi pete, one thing i seen with a lot of freehand sharpeners like neeves is that they use the same stone brand and system, just different grits, so you have one height of stones...one less variable to compensate for, might be better to learn and get that muscle memory and consistent accurate repeation you require without have to compensate for slight differences in stone height off the table. Just a thought....im no good at free hand...kme for me, hehe, might go a tsprof in future, and a big hello from oz mexico... Victoria
Great comparison
Hats off to you sir
Your test is better than CATRA when looking into real-world use. If the edge won't stand up to minute lateral pressure on a cutting board, the steel won't stand up to normal use either.
As a hobby cutler on a neverending quest to see just how sharp I can get a blade. Firstly like most I only knew of freehand sharpening and happily did this for years. Till about eight years ago I discovered fixed angle sharpening. Started with some cheap versions. Until finally settling on a TSprof KO3 and CBN metallic bond " stones." I make my own strops from 1x6 aluminum blanks and high end leather belt blanks. My own diamond emulsions for PM steels with high vanadium,( M390, S30v, 60, 90..and basic chromium oxide for 14cr, VG-10 154cm,1095) Thousands upon thousands of dollars and countless hours of joy in both freehand and fixed angle. The bottom line is holding a steady and consistent angle, and being able to repeat that over the stone progression is a paramount factor in producing the stones and steels highest level of sharpness. I eventually made a jig and brace to support my clamp(s) to eliminate even the slightest deviation in the set angle when sharpening. Although I can get some wicked sharp edges freehanding. There will always be human error and some angle deviation in the hand and arm motion. Same as freehand welding compared to robotic welding. The beads are just not comparable when perfection is the goal. My BESS scores verify this consistently. I have never got a BESS score lower than 240 freehanding. However, I have got as low as 20 many times on a range of steels with my set up and equipment. My K03 and modifications also outperforms my T8..And that's saying something. Anyway, that's my two cents from an obsessive sharpener and half ass metallurgist. It's all about the joy of the process anyway.
Vorpal sharp ❤
If I'm going to the freehand whetstones, it's not because I'm looking for the finest sharpest edge I can possibly get, it's really because it's so much faster than dragging out a big piece of hardware and bolting and unbolting knives to the damn thing. They're still sharp enough to satisfy me -- I can still get a mirror polish. But they aren't as sharp as I can get them on the fixed angle system.
Lol, I luv the Star Wars credits style comments!
I'm honestly surprised you can't get below 240 Bess freehand. But 20 is nothing to scoff at, that's pretty much the limit of steel.
I’m thinking the 750 by hand compared to the fixed jig is actually really good. It might be heresy but I think in a lot of cases the really extremely sharp edges people go for aren’t that necessary. Sometimes an edge a bit back from that, that still cuts well enough but lasts longer is much more practical.
I struggle with this as I’d love to be able to get a super sharp hair splitting edge but if it cuts paper off my arm smoothly that’s good for 99% of the tasks you need a knife for. A coarse stone will get a clean edge quick
I appreciate the skill of freehand and the precision of fixed angle sharpening. However, I am 73 and the clock ticks louder every day. The speed and versatility of the Ken Onion blade grinder were the most important features for me. Would like to see how your edges on the blade grinder compare to your freehand and fixed angle edges. Also compare the time it to get your best edges each way.
first thought i had was swap the knives around now and do the same test...
i know im just a Spyderco bro but literally 70% of their Mule-steels end up becoming sprint-run/industry staples in the future. You can currently purchase their folding knives in 25-30 steel comps while other companies offer 3-4 at max
The vid I’ve been waiting for.
Nice test 👍
Great result I would say.
Nice work Pete. No worries, you'll season with time & surpass fixed system results. 🤙
It would be interesting to do a cut test between cutting free hanging rope vs the cutting board and looking at edge damage under magnification after 50 or so cuts. While catra does have its place in knife science, I think the cut test using a cutting board it more applicable to real-world tasks.
hi, I tried a lot of freehand sharpening but i was not able to holed the angle. I bought Kuromaku stones and now what. i will sell them because freehand sharpening sucks? NO i found a solution for myself and I'm max happy the answer for me was Hapstone T1. Yes it needs a little time to set up but result is amazing. It works perfectly for me.
Can you tell by eye if the bevels were similar geometry? Was your freehand pretty close to 17 degrees? Couple degrees difference could affect the results as well as the convexing.
Nice Pete! I thought I saw a little bit of convexing which would make it a tougher edge!
As a freehand sharpener myself i saw under the mic you created a micro convex.
Which really wouldnt be a problem if he would account for it if sharpening lower to start with. Then it actually would be better than straight V, by having better cutting ability for a similar apex stability.
By my lights not "which cuts better" but - which the experimenter can perform to better effect - is the question answered herein.
According to THE SCIENCE less thickness behind the edge will result in better edge retention. To follow through on that, the implication is that the experimenter has achieved a steeper edge bevel with his freehand sharpening than with the fixed angle system.
'Much as one might expect, as every freehand deviance above the desired edge angle mashes the bevel back into itself, turning the V profile towards more of an egg shape.
It would be cool to see magna-cut and 4V side by side. I am also curious why cru-wear doesn’t do as well when it has a similar toughness-edge retention balance.
Thank for another excellent vid and I’m not just saying that because you confirmed my biases. 😂I was hoping someone would do an experiment like this. A 27% difference is quite a bit but I’m not surprised.
I’m in the process of modding a Toohr fixed angle system for a friend and this’ll be interesting for him too. For well under $100 all in I think they’re the best bang for your buck out there. I’m improving and standardising the hardware with stainless steel thumb screws instead of Allen keys, installing a bronze bushing on the pivot to get rid of a slight looseness and making a hardwood base to screw everything down to. I use several other methods for sharpening everything from axes, machetes, cheaper kitchen knives but for high end Japanese and German knives I use fixed angle every time because of its accuracy, repeatability and ease.
Again I will never get over the fact that it’s basically winter down there when it’s hot ass summer up here 😂
Man I'm glad you're back
A thought crossed my mind about your cutting board.
You have steadfastly cut enough Sisel rope to go around the world a few dozen times (?, lol), and you've used knives of a multitude of different steels and I believe that there will a many particles of shed steel embedded into the surface of the board and some of the residual steel particles will be from steels with very high Rockwell hardness, so my theory, although I'm have no doubt that this will have crossed your mind aswel as many others minds before is how do these particles influence your cutting test results?
On occasion I have accidentally knocked to freshly sharpened knives together and with highly polished edges. I then thought, shit, that was dumb thing to do no matter how glancing and light the contact was and I always do an intermittent, very gentle thumbnail rub test along the apex my freshly sharpened blades and obviously I've found that occasionally even the slightest clink together of blades has left a tiny deformation in the blades apex and/or on the primary edge bevel(s) (Secondary bevel what have you?) so my thoughts are that there will definitely be steel particles embedded in your cutting boards surface and I'm even wondering now that after all these long years of your dedicated testing (of which I am and many many other folks are grateful to you for) that your board may well cause more wear to the knives edges and thus affect your results?
I remember seeing very well used chopping/cutting boards that had been used for generations in my family and their surfaces even after a good scrubbing could still sometimes appear to have a metallic discoloration, not rustlike necessarily, basically like powdered metal and slivers of metal which could possibly be considered micro splinters were embedded in these ancient chopping boards surfaces, so what I think is that maybe your cutting board has areas contaminated with microscopic high ally steel particles, and I obviously am concerned about the steel particles containing Vanadium, Tungsten, and other very high rhc hardness carbide dust and splinters and these particles will become more deeply embedded into the woods surface and grain, meaning that rather than being cut out of the board they're driven in further but still some I should think will still well be within reach of each blade you use to cut the rope.
Maybe you've created a chopping board with a Rockwell hardness reading? IDK, just a thought mate?
I've been free hand sharpening since I was about 10 years old and I have roughly 40 years experience of doing it and I don't harp on about it, I enjoy it, and I can put a bloody lethal sharp edge on all sorts of blades made from many different types of steel, and super shiny mirror edges I know aren't the best finish for certain steels and I don't chase getting them much tbh because of this. I research the steel, and then sharpen it accordingly and even if it's a bugger I still find the activity cathartic as you obviously do too!
Good on you Pete, and keep well mate, 👍🏻🤝🏻.
It all depends, on how much knowledge and experience, especially the guy who does the free hand has. Free hand with proper convexing, finsihed with kangaroo leather strop (no nonsense marketing diamond liquids requaired) and final stage stroping on newspaper, which realighnes the molecules of the steel, CAN't be much, by any fixed angle method/ flat "V" edge bevel,that those fixed angle systems produce. Those I only use,mostly for changing edge angles/reprofiling ,mostly on folders.
Keep the content coming my man!
To produce a real mirror finish, that won't show any scratches, it takes a proper advancment from low to fine grit,where you have to multiply the passes even more, as you advance on grits. keeping the grit sizes tighter, like 300/1000/3000 grit (just an example) also helps to remove the scratches that the last grit left behind, faster. If you jump from 1000 to 5000 or more, won't be as easy. When you go from 300 to 1000,you have to double the passes and when going to 3000 to triple or even more the passes.That means, you always do THE SAME on both sides and you always count the amount of passes you have made on each grit. Little pressure is required while sharpening, less and less pressure when you finish, helps to produce and even sharper edge.Keeping the proper angle on both sides is key. When stroping, reduce the angle around 2 degrees, because the leather isn't hard as the stone ,so it creates a larger angle because the leather rubs around the edge (that's why many of you, dull the edge instead of making it any good when stroping).
that sounds like quite a day of sharpeningg! but it must be what they do at rockstead on those big mirror convexes
@@CedricAda You got it! Now,I don't know exactly how the guys at Rockstead knives do it, but me and many others, can easily produce very similar edges. You can try on Moras,where you can just use sandpapers, to produce a "Rockstead" kind of mirror polish. Done properly, 3000 grit as a last grit, can easily produce mirror finish.
You rock sir
My man, your videos have been epic the last couple weeks!
I appreciate that!
The... sound... in the beginning...😵💫🤯😵☠️
Hey Pete it might not even be a difference in skill but also in sharpening media. I think magnacut has enough carbide volume to benefit from a diamond sharpening. You might have carbide tearout and and fatigued steel matrix lowering the wearresistance of the blade you shrpened freehand on the shapton stone.
I would assume its a combination of small inaccuracies and sharpening medium leading to the lower results.
Diamond vs Ceramic. I would re-run the test free hand sharpening on diamond stones.
IF -- I am putting an edge on a power planer, or a lawn mower, I want one edge -- the same -- all the way across the cutting surface. A tool or a guide can be advantageous in this and similar situations.
WHEN -- I keen up my straight razor(s), or any of my knives (OMG -- 16" commercial kitchen knives down to 2" Bird-Beak paring knives, an axe or hatchet, an Ontario machete, various choppers, a silly number of fixed blades, and a less silly(?) number of folders ---- I only free-hand, with a variety of abrasives and sharpening doo-dads from an el-cheepo chinesium diamond file (60-grit) down to green rouge on leather or hardwood for coarse stropping.
It's hard to say with certainty but I guess that since 1968 I have spent about 75% on blades and 25% on sharpening devices -- only one of which was a guided roller for making chisels and planes easier to sharpen -- I tossed it after a year.
I sharpen my 22" Stanley plane, lesser planes, and all my chisels by hand...
(NEVER USE OIL of any type)
...because I can feel the edges -- because when I use any knife it is NOT to one purpose, because the hand that wields that blade is the best guide for sharpening that blade, because no ideal guide matches every kind of wood cut by a chainsaw, because -- in the field -- who wants to carry a 5# -- 2kilo sharpener?
None of which has anything to do with why I keep watching you discuss knives and life -- Keep it up & carry on!
4:00 you called it the KME 😅
Edit: And you caught yourself moments later
This would have been a lot easier with a pair of Opinels. I assume the hand edge is a slightly convex, and a little tougher. (and you addressed this after I mentioned it.)
Even 750 would make a mere mortal happy, precision is where its at
@cedricada I’m curious about a couple of things: 1) Does the progression of grits make any difference in end result? 2) Does blade pressure with your “free” hand make any difference? I see several other YTers just using one hand and others use two.
I ask the first question because I’m curious what is the difference between starting on say a 600 grit or 1000 grit if you finish both the same with maybe a 2k grit and a strop?
Keep working, Brother!
Can you measure the edge bevel angle on both knives?
The rope slice is Comparable for you ! Cos there are many variables to consider . So it's relevant for comparing ( Knives / steels / edges / angles / grits ) So if one knife you test does 250 and another does say 450 . Then it's a relatively fair comparison as long as there are not to many variables . Is it fair to test say 16 deg per side against 20 deg per side ???? ( Maybe no as the variable may account for the result ) But some form of testing is surely better than no testing at all ( edge retention ) . All 's I can say is ........ Those nasty Variables !
Pete, have you ever tried chisel or plane blade sharpening? Its just as addictive as knife sharpening.
Before I've even.watched the video, I'd guess that hand sharpening will cut longer because any inconsistency in your control of the blade will make the cutting edge slightly convexed and stronger.? We'll see. I'll watch now.
Agree that the freehand edge is doing worse because of convexing, but not necessarily micro. Even though you've gotten pretty good at holding the angle, there's probably still 1-2° of variation. Very hard to avoid that. So if you're freehanding at 17 dps, the angle at the apex is probably closer to 18-19 dps and you're comparing that to a pure 17 dps edge. Another factor could be the abrasives. Magnacut has vanadium carbides (but not huge by volume) and tests have shown that an all-diamond (or CBN) progression produces longer lasting edges with vanadium steels. Granted, the "KME" edge wasn't ALL diamond.
Dont feel bad for not being as good as a guided sharpener. Thats a huge goal to attempt.
So, I have followed your sharpening seris and have found it interesting. In then end (not for videos) but for your own use- which system is your go to for your own everyday use?
freehand on my stones at the moment
TIP: angle guide to help with precise edge reprofiling. They come in different designs, as wedges or pyramids and are placed on the sharpening stone for reference.
He has several and uses them in other video. I believe the point of this was to test his own abilities.
I don't find them helpful at all. I know what the angle should be. It doesn't take the wobble out of my wrist and elbow though.
Once the blade moves away from the guide, it is no longer considered precise, for me anyway. That’s why I default to fixed angle sharpeners. Furthermore, Pete is fully aware of these guides you speak of, and I truly don’t think finding the preferred angle is Pete’s dilemma.
outdoor55 released a video on using them four days ago about how accurate they are or are not.
I would like to see Jared from NeevesKnives do this experiment. He's a freehand sharpening freak so the results would be interesting.
yeah i would love to see the better freehanders give this a trt for sure!
@@CedricAda
To be honest, I think you are doing great for only trying freehand for such a short time. Imagine how good you will be after a couple of years.
Fantastic outro!
You've been cranking out some good content. May I ask - when you are using the fixed angle strop, are you dropping the angle to make up for the leather material wrapping around the edge and dulling it, or am I over-thinking it?
havent even thought of that haha
I assume the freehand convex edge would be stronger?
If the angle of the final bevel is the same then convexed is weaker because there is less metal behind the edge; since to get there you would simply remove the shoulders of the flat bevel, rounding them over.
If my understanding is correct in such an instance the convexed blade would have the better edge retention because, perhaps counterintuitively, thinner behind the edge provides better edge retention. (For as long as the edge doesn't stress fail).
Please visit my channel if you're interested in more amateur viewpoints. Mostly blade content for now but some goofy stuff too.
Looking like a badass, freehand sharpening god has to be worth a couple hundred less rope cuts!
I think the one sharpening method you haven’t covered yet is the good ol’ metal sharpening rod that comes with those kitchen knife block sets. Would like to see that edge under the microscope.
Outdoors55 has a video on that
Hey not bad at all considering how new you are still to freehand also the fixed angle edge wasn’t as fine as a grit so is prob more toothy than your freehand
Scratches on the edge bevel, translated to a toothy edge. Toothy edge doesn't have the amount of edge stability or edge retention, the real mirror finish can provide.
Do you actually believe the things you type?
Do you actually believe the things you type? Honest question.
@@CNYKnifeNut 100% I only stated facts.I'm 43 year old with a degree in Chemistry/Metallurgy since the 90's. I sharpen knives profesionaly for almost 30 years. If you need a lecture, I do it for free.Honestly.