I'm still using my plasmas. I got a free one made in 2011. The picture quality is amazing in the last few generations of Panasonic plasma. It had the same problem with loose screws. It blew an entire row of mosfets. I rebuilt it for the wife who passed away last year. I told her it was the last tv that she would need. Everyday when I turn it on I think of her.
In 2008 when Pioneer bowed out of Plasma, Panasonic bought their Kuro technology and produced a line of THX certified panels. I have one. Its only a 42" but it looks totally awesome. I am not even using it yet. It will replace the 42 on my desk in the edit suite when it blows.
Hi 12voltids, as usual good work and I fully agree there is nothing like a plasma TV for picture quality, because I have plenty of time and I use pulled parts from good boards, ( as you know they are better than new parts today)I have plenty of time to check all components to first see if there is a problem with anything on all of the boards, I know in a business you just don't have the time to go through the same procedure but for me it's just a hobby and thanks for taking the time to make this video. Great work as usual. 👍👍
Yes well we know what it's not and that's the power supply. That part's working. Could be anything else. X-main, ymain y buffer or both. Not worth fixing at this point.
I remember when are 36 inch sony crt got hit by lighting one week after we got it that was not fun all the places wanted us to bring it in. My dad finally found someone who would come and take it for us they even brought it back and hooked it up to I remember they had a hard time getting it out of are basement and it’s weird to the lighting did not fry the vcr or my sattelite box only the tv .
I had the same tv and solved the boot loop by replacing the NAND flash memory with a new one with the correct image I purchased on ebay. Figured out it was this chip by putting an ice cube (in a ziploc) on the chip and it started working again. Could also be a dry solder joint on the power supply. Check out Nick's tv repair channel he just fixed 4 similar power supplies for these TVs
I've found that dead switching transistors are often nearby dead capacitors. I figure excessive ESR means high voltage spikes which means shorted transistors. Weak main filter capacitors could also make it shut down when the load is put on.
I use that solder-blob trick too when removing components, but without hands of steel need to use tweezers not to burn myself... Works for ICs too, both through-hole and SMD too if not too big.
Rabbit hole, bummer. Great narration, Plasma's are a bit more complicated for sure. If you do continue with this set, please take us along. Thanks for sharing this experience - mid 60's & always enjoy learning ... more.🤔🤓
On the Dell (samsung) 50 inch plasma TV I have, it would take longer and longer to come on, including turning it on and off a few times to have it come on, eventually it just no longer came on. Thankfully some others had this same problem and posted their findings on CZcams. So it was a capacitor issue, there were two capacitors on the same circuit and one was blown out. I replaced both of them and it has been fine since. I figured later after having a similar problem with a older flat screen LG TV 32 (grand model) it was a capacitor problem in the power supply but none of them were leaking or blown. Ironically I had to replace most of the caps starting with the larger ones, but I had then quicker time coming on as I replaced the small ones as well, after replacing every capacitors in the power board except the main super large one (as I was advised it often is not the problem) so I did this repair in groups and each test the TV came on more quickly but the first two repair portions of the larger caps did very little to have it come on in a timely manor. After the last set of very small electrolytic caps, the TV now comes on in less then a minute. How does this affect your repair here. I figured that the caps when they go bad they get week or put a drain on the circuit and it takes longer and longer for them to load up to their proper voltage value, the circuit is looking for that steady voltage and if it is not there the TV will not come on. So I suspect you have several bad or weak caps on the power board or maybe one of the other main boards. I don't trust the green or the brown caps very much, and after 10 years or longer they all could be all going down, especially if they're near a heat source. So the Dell had two in the same circuit and I can guess the service guys knew if the TV was coming on slower or required a few power starts, that one of both of those caps were going bad. A single higher cap could have been put in there but having a second one helped to produce a warning sign that this TV needed service before having the problem go any farther. Yes, there was a post on Y T about this problem knocking out a few diodes on a side board due to the point of them trying and trying to get the TV to come back on.
Dam, it was looking hope full :-( But the power modules are damaged as you said in a previous video. Those loose grounding screws are a pain in the ass! :-(
@@12voltvids Well if the owner gives up on it, you might want to pull the left pcb and test the transistors, If they are buggered i would stack the pcbs for spare parts, some of the crap a citors must still be usable. My friend said the plasma sets he owned just cooked themselves. I thought Yup you can keep them, ill stick to cathode ray sets. Old but lasted and lasted really well, unlike modern crap!!.
Dave, we've talked about ground screws coming lose. You mentioned using lock washers instead of Loctite. So, I'd like to check my large screen TV for this problem but which lock washers should I get. What size, inside or outside star washers or spiral washers and how many? Thanks so much for letting us uneducated with the knowledge need to fix out electronics. Keep up the good work.
Those blue ceramic capacitors always usually fail on those, actually never seen where those blue ceramic capacitor are still good. You first get sound no picture and take a few times for pictures to come up, then blows those mosfets and resistors. The X and Y boards rarely fail except those blue ceramic capacitors I usually replace as well, those unlike LG they usually fail. Common issues with those Samsungs. I actually seen those capacitors actually test good as well good ESR and throw you off? Replaced them on the X and Y board and sure fire up. I haven’t seen one that blew beyond those stupid blue ceramic capacitors. That Samsung usually pretty reliable otherwise. I use to buy them to repair and resell years ago, when they were worth something. They held up once gone through and repaired and still have one working from years ago. Unlike the crappy LG had to constantly repair those X-Y-Z boards and hassle to find the buffer boards which also like to fail on them and burn a lovely hole in chip. Surprisingly panel survived on most of them but once in a while you get one with a bad panel as well? I had one that repaired years ago and still works shockingly well. It has a excellent picture when working
@@12voltvids Yes. I have an old LCD flat screen and it gives off some warmth. I have had it for 15yrs it has not given me any problems it's a Sony don't know the model number but it has a Bravia engine and its a 1080p
It comes as a kit. Originally by Electronics Australia (EA) and then by Silicon Chip. They don't make it anymore but there is still some stock around. I have seen them at Altronics stores part no K2574 Maybe you can buy them online, but check if they ship overseas. I have one.
Well Dave did his part admirably fixing the SMPS problems but it still cycles on the off on POST mode. I wonder if there might be a part two on this big beast of a set ?
Dave, it's fortune cookie time. Think of it as deep thoughts by CP, like the SNL skit: Where there is smoke, there is fire. Where there is fire is when the Indian guy climbs a train and touches one of the overhead wires. Thank you and have an excellent day or night, or both or don't but do I would say.
Wondering if a thermal flir camera would show you where all the electrons are being eaten up. I recommend the flir one gen 2... Cheap as a second hand unit and resolution good enough
That popped resistor and cap probably were in the mains line for suppression? If yes the resistor being open probably made no difference to the function of the set. Shame there is more to it, those plasmas had good picture quality..
A resistor and capacitor on series is called a snubber circuit. It suppresses the HV spike that happens when the trabsistor turns off and the back EMF from the transformer kicks. It is the equivelant of the damper diode on horizontal output but doesn't clamp to ground like the damper did. Yes the set would have worked with the open resistor. The fault is somewhere in the y or x main circuits. When the picture initially shut down it would have been caused by the loose ground screws. By repeatedly trying to turn it back on something popped and that took out the mosfets on the power supply. I got the power supply going but it is shutting down which is a good indicator that one of the protection circuits is shutting it down.
@@12voltvids Thanks, snubber was the word I was looking for ;-) Sometimes I grapple a bit with english terms although I have lived and worked in your town for 3 years, had a German matey there who also owned a radio/tv repair business and rebuilt tv crt s. When I had spare time I used to help him out in his shop. Many years ago that was... Anyways lets hope there is a simple solution to be found after you put so much effort into the repair till now, fingers crossed. Cheers from Germany
After seeing several times that ground screws came lose, would you say that this is a common problem? I wonder how many hours it takes for those screws to back out? Should all big screens be checked for this problem?
@@dalemettee1147 probably things like loctite issue put them on the threads. It costs the threads and is an insulator which defeats the purporse of the ground. Lock washers are the solution which was Panasonic's fix.
Loctite over the screw heads would not help here too much, because the main reasons for the loosening screws are the compressibility of the PCB material, and heat cycling. They should have used metal bridges with a screwhole in the middle, two leads soldered into the board, and a big hole on the board underneath, so the connection would be direct between the chassis and these metal grounding bridges, without any compressible materials between them. And generally, making ground connections between boards, and between different portions of the same board through a metal chassis is not a good engineering practice. They know it, but they don't care, because it is MUCH cheaper than using more layers on the board. Related problems will appear only after the warranty expires, so they don't give a f.....
@@12voltvids Yes, the more board layer approach is not feasible in a consumer product produced it the amount of millions, but the grounding bridges I mentioned would cost very little additional money, if any. Actually they are using them on this very board, they would just need a version with two solderable leads on each side, and a bigger hole on the PCB undernearth them. But of course they try to cut every possible cents off of the production costs.
Would dim bulb test still provide enough current to see a short on thermal imager? Half dead rectifier (on heatsink next to the dead mosfets) could cause symptom seen at the end of the video?
I noticed you have been using that solder sucker more and more ..... That saves a couple of dollars on solder wick ..... But I think I know you well enough that a 10 foot roll of wick will last you a few weeks ..... You sure can use every bit of the wick you can get out of it .... I used to do that also when I had my radio shop years back.... Great video as always Mon Ami ....
@@12voltvids The majority of the boards you work on are perfect for the way you desolder.......Hakko discontinued a model that was a favorite to a lot of technicians, I'm getting to a point where I might get one, I'm calling all the Ralph's Electronics and Menard's down here in Louisiana and surrounding areas to see if they have a NOS in stock if I can find my paperwork with the model number that was back ordered ...
I love old plasmas - deep blacks, great viewing angles, and they can be picked up for next to nothing. £20 for an old Viera or almost a month's wages for the latest OLED or QLED? Not bothered about 4k so they suit my needs perfectly.
![Build A Power Supply - With Junk Box Parts! [The BC-348 Series.]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nX87kwSshZ8/mqdefault.jpg)
great content. when I sit down I can not stop watching.
I'm still using my plasmas. I got a free one made in 2011. The picture quality is amazing in the last few generations of Panasonic plasma. It had the same problem with loose screws. It blew an entire row of mosfets. I rebuilt it for the wife who passed away last year. I told her it was the last tv that she would need. Everyday when I turn it on I think of her.
Ya i rebuilt my mother's set and once she was gone i got it back. About the only thing i got from her. It's a spare for when one of my others blows.
In 2008 when Pioneer bowed out of Plasma, Panasonic bought their Kuro technology and produced a line of THX certified panels. I have one. Its only a 42" but it looks totally awesome. I am not even using it yet. It will replace the 42 on my desk in the edit suite when it blows.
The famous pink smoke out of those blue ceramic caps, philips used them a lot in crt’s, great repairs for us back then 🔥
Hi 12voltids, as usual good work and I fully agree there is nothing like a plasma TV for picture quality, because I have plenty of time and I use pulled parts from good boards, ( as you know they are better than new parts today)I have plenty of time to check all components to first see if there is a problem with anything on all of the boards, I know in a business you just don't have the time to go through the same procedure but for me it's just a hobby and thanks for taking the time to make this video. Great work as usual. 👍👍
Switch mode power supplies. After changing a few components, I actually fear the bang on switch on!
2 words. Dim bulb.
Loose ground screws were a problem in the Panasonic TC-P42S30. Blows the IGBT's on the SN board.
I had the exact same issue w/ a plasma TV .. endless boot-loop cycle .. finally figured out that the best way to fix it was to throw it in the trash.
Yes well we know what it's not and that's the power supply. That part's working. Could be anything else. X-main, ymain y buffer or both. Not worth fixing at this point.
I remember when are 36 inch sony crt got hit by lighting one week after we got it that was not fun all the places wanted us to bring it in. My dad finally found someone who would come and take it for us they even brought it back and hooked it up to I remember they had a hard time getting it out of are basement and it’s weird to the lighting did not fry the vcr or my sattelite box only the tv .
No happy end 😱😭
Modern TV'S are going the same way as cars, too expensive to repair when they develop multiple faults.
I had the same tv and solved the boot loop by replacing the NAND flash memory with a new one with the correct image I purchased on ebay. Figured out it was this chip by putting an ice cube (in a ziploc) on the chip and it started working again. Could also be a dry solder joint on the power supply. Check out Nick's tv repair channel he just fixed 4 similar power supplies for these TVs
When the 6W4 damper goes, it sometimes takes the 6BG6 horiz output too. I change the 1B3 HV rectifier, just to be sure.
Thanks. Great vid.
Now your talking old school. Been at least 35 years since i worked on tube TV's.
I've found that dead switching transistors are often nearby dead capacitors. I figure excessive ESR means high voltage spikes which means shorted transistors. Weak main filter capacitors could also make it shut down when the load is put on.
Welcome to switch mode hell, maybe a priest, rabbi, and monk should have blessed it first.
I fix lots of switch mode. Still don't like them.
I use that solder-blob trick too when removing components, but without hands of steel need to use tweezers not to burn myself... Works for ICs too, both through-hole and SMD too if not too big.
Enjoy solder work repair I remember lead solder, TV's are complex love the videos
Especially plasma
That stand is far too small and flimsy for such a big TV.
Man, I wouldn't know where to even begin looking!
Rabbit hole, bummer. Great narration, Plasma's are a bit more complicated for sure. If you do continue with this set, please take us along. Thanks for sharing this experience - mid 60's & always enjoy learning ... more.🤔🤓
Will not be a part 2 as the owner decided to walk away and took it back.
the Y me and the x ploded boards :-))) What a beast of a TV!
On the Dell (samsung) 50 inch plasma TV I have, it would take longer and longer to come on, including turning it on and off a few times to have it come on, eventually it just no longer came on. Thankfully some others had this same problem and posted their findings on CZcams. So it was a capacitor issue, there were two capacitors on the same circuit and one was blown out. I replaced both of them and it has been fine since. I figured later after having a similar problem with a older flat screen LG TV 32 (grand model) it was a capacitor problem in the power supply but none of them were leaking or blown. Ironically I had to replace most of the caps starting with the larger ones, but I had then quicker time coming on as I replaced the small ones as well, after replacing every capacitors in the power board except the main super large one (as I was advised it often is not the problem) so I did this repair in groups and each test the TV came on more quickly but the first two repair portions of the larger caps did very little to have it come on in a timely manor. After the last set of very small electrolytic caps, the TV now comes on in less then a minute.
How does this affect your repair here. I figured that the caps when they go bad they get week or put a drain on the circuit and it takes longer and longer for them to load up to their proper voltage value, the circuit is looking for that steady voltage and if it is not there the TV will not come on. So I suspect you have several bad or weak caps on the power board or maybe one of the other main boards. I don't trust the green or the brown caps very much, and after 10 years or longer they all could be all going down, especially if they're near a heat source.
So the Dell had two in the same circuit and I can guess the service guys knew if the TV was coming on slower or required a few power starts, that one of both of those caps were going bad. A single higher cap could have been put in there but having a second one helped to produce a warning sign that this TV needed service before having the problem go any farther. Yes, there was a post on Y T about this problem knocking out a few diodes on a side board due to the point of them trying and trying to get the TV to come back on.
Dam, it was looking hope full :-(
But the power modules are damaged as you said in a previous video.
Those loose grounding screws are a pain in the ass! :-(
This one has modules and big transistors I believe.
@@12voltvids Well if the owner gives up on it, you might want to pull the left pcb and test the transistors,
If they are buggered i would stack the pcbs for spare parts, some of the crap a citors must still be usable.
My friend said the plasma sets he owned just cooked themselves.
I thought Yup you can keep them, ill stick to cathode ray sets.
Old but lasted and lasted really well, unlike modern crap!!.
@@zx8401ztv I have a 20 year old plasma and it's still going strong.
smoke test
Why you not put new board into this unit .It be come long life.i think so
Dave, we've talked about ground screws coming lose. You mentioned using lock washers instead of Loctite. So, I'd like to check my large screen TV for this problem but which lock washers should I get. What size, inside or outside star washers or spiral washers and how many? Thanks so much for letting us uneducated with the knowledge need to fix out electronics. Keep up the good work.
Star washers
@@12voltvids So Dave star washers are what you recommend. M3 internal tooth washers are best, right?
Those blue ceramic capacitors always usually fail on those, actually never seen where those blue ceramic capacitor are still good. You first get sound no picture and take a few times for pictures to come up, then blows those mosfets and resistors. The X and Y boards rarely fail except those blue ceramic capacitors I usually replace as well, those unlike LG they usually fail. Common issues with those Samsungs. I actually seen those capacitors actually test good as well good ESR and throw you off? Replaced them on the X and Y board and sure fire up. I haven’t seen one that blew beyond those stupid blue ceramic capacitors. That Samsung usually pretty reliable otherwise. I use to buy them to repair and resell years ago, when they were worth something. They held up once gone through and repaired and still have one working from years ago. Unlike the crappy LG had to constantly repair those X-Y-Z boards and hassle to find the buffer boards which also like to fail on them and burn a lovely hole in chip. Surprisingly panel survived on most of them but once in a while you get one with a bad panel as well?
I had one that repaired years ago and still works shockingly well. It has a excellent picture when working
21:10 smoke moment
Did I see another TV on your bench? Tell me my eyes were fooling me.
Unfortunately you did.
No great loss, RIP HF RF killer ..hihi.
Yes they create plenty of noise.
@@12voltvids And heat!
@@SDsailor7 Yes help heat your house in the winter
@@12voltvids Yes. I have an old LCD flat screen and it gives off some warmth. I have had it for 15yrs it has not given me any problems it's a Sony don't know the model number but it has a Bravia engine and its a 1080p
@@SDsailor7 those old Bravia LCD sets last forever i have 2 of them.
Check the upper, left corner of the TV around 28:13. You'll see a puff of smoke float by the corner.
no, that was dust. Or the ghost of the TV leaving it to go to electronics heaven.....
What brand ESR meter do you use? I know it wasn't used in this video. Love your videos!
It comes as a kit. Originally by Electronics Australia (EA) and then by Silicon Chip.
They don't make it anymore but there is still some stock around.
I have seen them at Altronics stores part no K2574
Maybe you can buy them online, but check if they ship overseas.
I have one.
It was a kit i built at least 30byeara ago.
There's me thinking those blue things were MOV devices.
Ceramic hv capacitors.
Well Dave did his part admirably fixing the SMPS problems but it still cycles on the off on POST mode. I wonder if there
might be a part two on this big beast of a set ?
Dave, it's fortune cookie time. Think of it as deep thoughts by CP, like the SNL skit: Where there is smoke, there is fire. Where there is fire is when the Indian guy climbs a train and touches one of the overhead wires. Thank you and have an excellent day or night, or both or don't but do I would say.
I saw that Indian video. Still have nightmares the guy was on fire. They showed that to us in electrical safety at work.
@@12voltvids I mean too, as rhetorical, ever seen their mains delivery system on a typical street? I know you have. heh
@@MrChrisRP well that guy was cooked with 600v DC.
Wondering if a thermal flir camera would show you where all the electrons are being eaten up. I recommend the flir one gen 2... Cheap as a second hand unit and resolution good enough
Unless you need to provide official reports, the import devices are in another league in terms of features, size and price to performance
That popped resistor and cap probably were in the mains line for suppression? If yes the resistor being open probably made no difference to the function of the set. Shame there is more to it, those plasmas had good picture quality..
A resistor and capacitor on series is called a snubber circuit. It suppresses the HV spike that happens when the trabsistor turns off and the back EMF from the transformer kicks. It is the equivelant of the damper diode on horizontal output but doesn't clamp to ground like the damper did. Yes the set would have worked with the open resistor. The fault is somewhere in the y or x main circuits. When the picture initially shut down it would have been caused by the loose ground screws. By repeatedly trying to turn it back on something popped and that took out the mosfets on the power supply. I got the power supply going but it is shutting down which is a good indicator that one of the protection circuits is shutting it down.
@@12voltvids Thanks, snubber was the word I was looking for ;-) Sometimes I grapple a bit with english terms although I have lived and worked in your town for 3 years, had a German matey there who also owned a radio/tv repair business and rebuilt tv crt s. When I had spare time I used to help him out in his shop. Many years ago that was...
Anyways lets hope there is a simple solution to be found after you put so much effort into the repair till now, fingers crossed. Cheers from Germany
After seeing several times that ground screws came lose, would you say that this is a common problem? I wonder how many hours it takes for those screws to back out? Should all big screens be checked for this problem?
Very. If you have a working plasma, open it up and tighten them before it blows.
@@12voltvids So, are you saying that LED, or LCD TV's don't have this problem or very seldom?
@@dalemettee1147 they do
@@12voltvids So then, would Loc-tite Red help with the situation?
@@dalemettee1147 probably things like loctite issue put them on the threads. It costs the threads and is an insulator which defeats the purporse of the ground. Lock washers are the solution which was Panasonic's fix.
wow , they dont put acrylic seal over the screws anymore to prevent turnout. nail polish must be expensive now!
That makes too much sense.
Loctite over the screw heads would not help here too much, because the main reasons for the loosening screws are the compressibility of the PCB material, and heat cycling. They should have used metal bridges with a screwhole in the middle, two leads soldered into the board, and a big hole on the board underneath, so the connection would be direct between the chassis and these metal grounding bridges, without any compressible materials between them. And generally, making ground connections between boards, and between different portions of the same board through a metal chassis is not a good engineering practice. They know it, but they don't care, because it is MUCH cheaper than using more layers on the board. Related problems will appear only after the warranty expires, so they don't give a f.....
@@mrnmrn1 cost-cutting measures they all do it. It's not like I'm some rocket that's going into space.
@@12voltvids Yes, the more board layer approach is not feasible in a consumer product produced it the amount of millions, but the grounding bridges I mentioned would cost very little additional money, if any. Actually they are using them on this very board, they would just need a version with two solderable leads on each side, and a bigger hole on the PCB undernearth them. But of course they try to cut every possible cents off of the production costs.
Would dim bulb test still provide enough current to see a short on thermal imager? Half dead rectifier (on heatsink next to the dead mosfets) could cause symptom seen at the end of the video?
I noticed you have been using that solder sucker more and more ..... That saves a couple of dollars on solder wick ..... But I think I know you well enough that a 10 foot roll of wick will last you a few weeks ..... You sure can use every bit of the wick you can get out of it .... I used to do that also when I had my radio shop years back.... Great video as always Mon Ami ....
A few weeks? A roll lasts me a few years.
@@12voltvids SEVERAL AND HALF YEARS
I might go out and buy a powered desolder pump some day. Perhaps even an air station.
@@12voltvids The majority of the boards you work on are perfect for the way you desolder.......Hakko discontinued a model that was a favorite to a lot of technicians, I'm getting to a point where I might get one, I'm calling all the Ralph's Electronics and Menard's down here in Louisiana and surrounding areas to see if they have a NOS in stock if I can find my paperwork with the model number that was back ordered ...
@@JESUSCHRYSLER5512 Hey Tom how you been Mon Ami.....
Thanku sir
Wow Big TV..
Shame. You can't win them all.
Do you gotta chip that glue off?... what is the best way so you don't do damage to the board?
The stuff is hard as a rock
Your video thumbnail isn't showing up for some reason.
The thumbnail is a photo of said smoke.
Not worth fixing there much better sets now .plasma old technology
Spoken by someone that hasnt seen a reset Kuro
I love old plasmas - deep blacks, great viewing angles, and they can be picked up for next to nothing. £20 for an old Viera or almost a month's wages for the latest OLED or QLED? Not bothered about 4k so they suit my needs perfectly.
Ever watched the plasma screen from an angle? If yes it is because you can 🙂
@@blitzroehre1807 Yup LCD sux in that dept.
O no another TV 😜
Reinforcing my reasons not to work on these bears.
Please stop repairing those boring tv's
I work on what i get my hands on.