Hydro-Gear Transaxle/ Transmisson Disassembly and Diagnosis
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- čas přidán 13. 04. 2013
- This is a basic disassembly and diagnosis of a Hydro-Gear 314-0510. These transaxles were used in Husqvarna, Craftsman and many other brands. The main difference on these seems o be the external linkages. I came to this assumption from checking several diagrams of transaxles with a 3xx-0510 reference # (found on a tag on the transaxle). The internals and case were the same part numbers so...If you have a similar number , ending with 0510 and I believe the 0610 and 0710's are very similar as well, then maybe this vid can help in some way. This is not an instructional video. I am not a professional, disassemble at your own risk.
Air purge procedure • Hydro-Gear Purge Proce...
Hydro-Gear repair manuals- FREE downloads www.hydro-gear.com/Main/servic... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I love tearing everything apart to see how they work. I figure if it's already broke, then it can't hurt. I also take pics during disassembly. Glad to have helped someone!
Thank you very much for posting your video back in 2013. It encouraged me to pull my trans axle and sure enough one of the check valves had backed out like in your case. Just ordered the parts needed for reassembly for $63. Saved me a ton of dough on a new trans axle or new zero turn. For that I'm grateful - appreciate you posting your experience.
Thanks a lot Joe if it weren't for your video I never would have taken on such a challenge. I can only hope I remember where everything goes and that it gets put back together the right way....At 60 too many senior moments so I am taking photos each step of the way...LOL ...
Hey Joe, Thanks for doing this video. Believe it or not iv'e searched a week for info on my Hydro Gear 351-0510 before i came across this video.. Mine looks the same as yours but has an oil expansion tank. Went to cut grass, it would not pull and the release valve didn't let the tractor roll free in forward or reverse. I did find however that the brake had seized up upon trans removal and think that the pump and motor had overworked themselves on my last cutting. when the trans cooled down the pistons are probably seized in place too. i'll get back about my finding. One other note, my oil was clear and full. Thanks again.
Glad to hear it works again. I did the same thing to the filter. To help insure the screws did not back out I heated them, then screwed them in so they would melt into the base and assure a tight fit without cracking the hard plastic. Same prob with Sears too. I waited a week or more for the refund and ended up having to call to get my money back. Not the first time I have been disappointed with their service.
This is the best video I've seen for this rebuild anywhere on the net
This totally blew my mind when I took mine apart! I just expectred a normal gear transmission and not a hydro pump/motor transmission. Quite cool tech for a lawn mower. Nice vid btw!
I just repaired mine. Mine came to a dead stop. Wouldn't roll even with the by-pass valve engaged. Hydro Gear told me to polish the mating surfaces of the pump body where the pumps are seated. Told to rub my finger nail across the surface and if there is any tiny thing poking up, it is enough to cause the pump to stop rotating. I polished the surfaces and put it back together. Works perfect; no new parts. The check balls do get stuck, but mine were loose.
Started having transmissions problems about the time I saw your video.Once disassembled discovered the same problem. Will be ordering parts this week and while thinking it through I am concerned about reinstalling pump assembly without everything falling apart. I also found a washer in the bottom of pump housing, unknown origin, so am looking forward to your reassembly video. Well done video!
Thank you for the video. Liked your stand. I had made small bench for a project that's done. So I jig sawed a aprox.14" hole to hold the trans-axle. I have to redo cause it must of had water hiding some where. I was just going to change the oil and look inside. But new oil turned foamy. So now have to get the seal set. And thank you for the link, also.
Hi Joe, many thanks for this video, it gave me the confidence to delve into my gearbox and the problem was exactly as you described. Should have it all back together again tomorrow. I drilled through the black plastic filter holder and used some M3 countersunk set screws and nyloc nuts to re attached my filter after the little plastic clips came off. Thank you again Joe.
I'm so glad this video is still helping people
well done, sir! I actually work at one of the Hydro-Gear factories and I appreciate your quality minded explanation of tearing down the unit. Very knowledgeable! I built those 0510 models for 3 years :) Again...well done!
hey i have 166768 314 0510 and has reverse but no frwd it started jerking my bro in law said so he parked it sold it to me any idea what to check for?
Nikki, saw your comment and thought you may be able to help also. I have refurbed hundreds of mowers for a hobby but as you know, the transaxle is rarely a problem. I have a Hydro-Gear that I'm about to tear apart - like yours. My question, I've checked everything external but if I hold one wheel up and the other on the ground, I can spin the elevated one freely. Swap them around and again, one in air spins freely. Seems like this should be impossible. The hydro doesn't work but barely when operating normally. Suggestions??? My thanks. Scott
Good job man saved your self about 600 bucks, my Husqvarna is kinda having the same problem but I don't have reverse, I called my local shop to get a Price check and they wanted a little over 600 bucks for a new hydrogear so im going to tear mine apart and hope I get lucky, thanks for the video man
dude you saved me a couple thousand bucks and I just wanted to say thank you.. I dont care what people say this is the best video out there.. I pulled off the filter after destroying the filter because of the tabs but just like yours my check valve was completely out of the threads.. so new filter and cleaning every and Ill be putting it back together.... Again man thanks great video...
So glad to help. I figure if it's already broken it can't hurt to tear it apart. That's all I did. Glad this has helped so many ppl.
Keith, question for ya, was the check valve threaded and just needed to be reseated??? About to pull apart one. My thanks. Scott
Well, here is a follow up to my previous comment. I had a very hard time getting the input shaft out from the case. I took everything out and popped the screen off. And both check ball valves are in solid. Apparently, those were sealed in with red thread-lock. I'd have to use an impact wrench to get them out. I can find no broken or worn part. I'm stumped. When I reassembled it the first time, I had new oil in it. I put a drive source on the input shaft and spun the transmission. This is the transaxle out of the tractor. So attached vise grips onto the swash plate. The differential spun the tires in opposite directions, but locked when I tried to go either forward or reverse. We have the same transaxle by the looks of yours. Every part in this thing is pristine. There are no broken gear teeth, it all fits together tight, yet I can not make it go forward or reverse, nor will the by-pass engage. The check balls are loose in their assembly. I don't have a good understanding of differentials, but I don't see how the tires can go the same direction with this differential. It's baffling and frustrating. Other comments have been broken belt: no, locked brake: no, broken idler pulleys or springs: no. I have maintain the tractor since 2006 when I bought it repairing various things over the years, but I can't figure out why this turd won't move.
I'll echo what lots of other folks have said. Nine years after posting, your video is still helping garage mechanics like myself. Mine too had a loose check valve. I also copied your wooden jig, which make things a bunch easier. Thanks man!
I'm so glad this has helped so many ppl. I have seen so many great comments over the years. Best luck to everyone with their projects!
Good teaching style. Informative, encouraging.
I have this exact problem. The differential appears locked, no forward and backward movement, and releasing the transmission does no good. I had not removed the filter housing. I had mowed my yard and stopped it to trim. When I tried to move it to shed, it would neither go forward or backward. The oil was black. I was told it was a sealed axle, but it's not. New oil, same response. So now I will take it back apart and look at the filter housing. Thanks for this video. I wish I had seen it before I had reassembled it. This looks like the answer.
Yes its back up and running like a charm.So good I may put racing stripes on it...lol...I am not sure if it was the seals, fluid or combination but I'm thrilled. I did replace the filter assy 70756 approx. $10 only because I knew I'd break the tabs getting into it to examine the check valves. I was amazed at how simplistic the unit actually is and I would not hesitate to take it apart again if need be. But I am believing that after 12 years the fluid had degraded in mine and possibly seals.
Just disassembled 323-0510 transaxle out of a 1996 Sears mower. Same problem here. forward check valve had backed out inside of filter housing. A white o-ring underneath that valve had almost completely disintegrated. The reverse check valve had a black rubber o-ring underneath that was also in need. Found both at a high pressure hyd hose supplier. Going to red locktite both valves to the center section assembly. Waiting on parts. There are two o-rings(on my unit),,one for each check valve. if you order a new valve, you get that specific ring, valve and .027 shim washer with each(so I was told). Not available separately but can be sourced if you work at it.
I ordered my parts only to find out that the filter base is no longer available, even though Sears parts direct showed that it was in stock. So where the pins on the base broke off, I was able to grind them flat, drill an 1/8" hole in them, and hold the filter screen on with screws. After reassembly, it took a while to bleed all the air out, but it works great!
I watch this video years ago when I was working on Cub cadet I recently acquired a whites mower and this is still really the only rebuild video that shows in detail I don't know how it doesn't have more views and more likes
I'm glad this has helped as many ppl as it has!
@@jomishx hey man like I said the other comment your video is great but I got questions I haven't seen it on any forms or groups yet I got a white with a hydrostat transmission It will go in forward and reverse just fine if the bypass lever is pulled out where you should be able to push it you know I'm talking about but if you put the lever in the normal operating position in where it should work properly it will go forward just fine but will not go in the reverse The only other symptom that I noticed is lack of power It will go across flat ground just fine It will grow up a small hill just fine but it does not have enough power to spin the tires if you bump it up on curb or something or start going up a hill and it's too steep anything like that instead of spending the tires it just sits down groans or I can tell they took it apart a monkey with it before but I have not yet so do you have any advice on what to look for or where to look
@@arednecksgarage I'm no pro but I'd look at the adjustment. There could be excess wear or adjustment that keeps it from going into reverse or full forward. Also I would check the fluid level. These transmissions must have enough fluid. Just like an automatic trans. Goods luck
@@jomishx thank you for your insight bud you might be right It might not getting full engagement it's just odd that does it with the bypass on but not off and yeah when I got it she was way over before they filled it all up to the threads by changed all the fluid and tried to get about the right amount I can't remember now how much I put in it but like I said man I really appreciate your videos and you actually responding
Thanx so much man! You saved me alot of money !!
When you are taking apart the Pump and Center Section... Leave the Center Section bolts in. Take a flat head or claw and slide it in above your swash plate and press down between casing and swash plate then use hand and wiggle back and forth a little bit. Block Pistons and Swash Plate should slide out fairly easy.... It will make removing the center section much easier.
Greatest invention for lawn mowers hands down.
Thanks for the information. Unfortunately sears told me that there was no substitution. Lucky i was able to reuse the base.
Loved the video it helped me a lot. I did a couple of of things different, I hack sawed the plastic tits off the the screen base and drilled small holes where the tabs were, then I used small screws to hold the screen on. Instead of building a holder for the transmission I left the hub on and put the tire back on which held the trans up where it was easy to work on. Thanks for the video!
Thank you Joe for your posts. I took mine apart and did a few videos to help others as well.
you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Kole Fabian instablaster =)
@Leonidas Korbyn I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Leonidas Korbyn it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account!
@Kole Fabian you are welcome :)
That's great, so good to hear it!
A good tech can spot another right off. Nice work. I'd use a single edge razor blade to clean the case surfaces and I'd recommend a product like Honda Ultraflange or Honda Liquid gasket. This stuff is meant for the machined transmission cases where no gasket is used. I don't like power operated sanding or polishing devices because like you said man, one little divit and you have a major problem. Good video, very sensible approach.
Marlowe Peterson the razor blade is what i like to use. I've tried gasket removers with little luck. thanks for the positive
As professional Techs, you're familiar with Flat Rate times. Flat rate time for O/H on these is 1.5 hours. If you want to use a razor to scrape the old sealer off the sealing surfaces, help yourself, it's your paycheck. Once you get it apart, try spraying GOOF OFF on the sealing surfaces and let it soak while you get everything ready for reassembly. 5 minutes and you can wipe it perfectly clean with a rag. Use an anaerobic sealer. Pematex Gasket Eliminator is what I use. The Hydro-Gear factory service manual says the bead for both the center section and the outer case should be no more than 1/16" to 1/8" wide. In other words, don't act like you're icingng a cake. To get the drive motor/swash plate assembly in and out quicker, try fabricating a tool the width/ depth of the bottom of the motor assembly out of a thin piece of sheet metal with a L-bend on one side. To go out, work it in below the pistons and use it as a wedge to relieve the spring pressure. Squeeze the assembly and it slides right out. To go in, it's the reverse. Compress the springs/squeeze and everything slides into place. Grab the L-bend and slide it out and the pistons pop into position.
It was hairy getting the center section and swashplate back in and bolted down so both shafts slid back in easy. The first time I bolted it together couldn't get the brake shaft in, everything wasn't lined up nice so took it apart and carefully bolted the center section with the shafts in place making sure not to cause any binding...What a trip...hope there's NO re-do....lol ...Kudos for the attention and tips !!
Great video been looking for this for a while when I separated the case the shaft came out with the case now I can't get it back together now the shaft won't go all the way down into the slines
Hey Joe..... we've all been waiting for your video on how you put the transaxle back together and, let us all if that was the actual problem. I was able to get my filter screen off with out breaking any of the tabs lucky me. Mine to had the forward ball valve back out as well. Mike in Oregon
unfortunately there is not a reassembly vid. Just a reverse of tearing it a part. Did u get it thrown back together and working again? Main thing is ti be sure all parts are thoroughly cleaned and lubed before going back together.
Thank you for posting this video man! I have a craftsman tractor that had the same symptom and I was ready to buy a transaxle. I watched your video and decided that it looked simple enough, so I tore mine apart. I found the same thing inside except that the check valve had backed completely out and was just rolling around in the filter housing. I wonder how many of these things have been replaced for this issue!
God Bless you sir
Yes. The fluid was leaking past through the threads and effectively bypassing the valve, not allowing to work correctly.
thank you you know your stuff
I work Sullivan il factory and make these every day great place to work with family attitude and a great product i know i make them and i care about my work or i wouldn't work there go hydro-gear
Please make a decent video of servicing these units. We need that!
Bravo !
Thanks Joe for all the input and especially the video...I realize the center section is expensive but from what I'm reading here in order to remove the filter screen you have to break off the tabs holding it and then drill holes and add screws to reassemble. I fear the screws over time with vibration would come loose and I'm not skilled enough to attempt the screw heating thing and fear I would only end up cracking the plastic housing. I am assuming POP RIVETS are out of the questions?
I have a poulan pro rider and when I use it for a while the handle engages forward later and later the more it's driven. Have any idea what it could be? Weak pump maybe? It's an automatic.
Thanks for the video. I'm having a problem with taking out the input shaft it won't come out. I removed the seal & retainer but the shaft & bearing won't come out?
My cub has this unit. Seems fine no problems I've noticed at 200hrs of use. Good video I like have knowledge about the things I have just incase things go wrong. Just wondering did things go well it's it still working.
Thanks man....i cant get my pump out....smh...watching your video now
God bless you! Why was this video so hard to find. The manual says its non serviceable. Which lend's you to believe it is rocket science or disposable.
OK Joe. Thank you. Gave me the courage to try it myself. How did you bleed the air from the system after rebuilding?
Question: My hydro gear transaxle on my toro commercial 60” Zero Turn will randomly run off in forward when starting even when in nuetral I have adjusted linkage to be sure it was correct in nuetral with handle in. I am puzzled why does it do this occasionally? Thanks look forward to your respond.
I have a broken cradle bearing and the manual is saying its only available with a new case, but I found the cradle bearings sold separately. Have you ever replaced those? Not sure if they just rest there in the case or if they are adhered in some kind of way.
Thanks for the video, mine is the same, about 500hrs on it and when oil is hot I'm not going anywhere, looks like the pistons are fine but the rotary housing turning on the mating alum. part are worn, [too much by pass] needs re-surfacing. I might do this since I'm a machinist, or get new transmission. I've tried heavier oil but that hasn't helped. I've ruined the filter also. How is yours doing after the rebuild?
Where can I find the seal kit and the bypass valve components? Everywhere I look says it is a discontinued part and is no longer in stock.
Ok new update, I pulled it all apart. Everything looks good, no real wear everything aligned and I even got the filter off with no damage. Now outside of measuring the thickness of the Pistons ( which they all feel tight' ie no wobble) where to go next? To start I pulled the cover off to change the seals, change the oil ,and reassembled to find when it warms up no power fwd or rev. I followed refill method by purging the air in gear and out and I used the right oil to the right level. Any ideas?
Hi Joe, great video. Mine is the exact unit. I only took the cover off because I needed to change the seals as I have a leak. I wanted to put the cover back on temporarily but it stayed about an inch or so apart (wouldn't come back together). It seems like the Output shaft was the culprit not seated correctly. It must have come up a bit with when I took the cover off. I tried and tried to slowly rotate it to fit the spline properly to no avail. I know its not seated because the gear on it doesn't even touch the gear next to it, never mind fit into each other. FYI when I took the output gear out and back into the hole it seems that what ever is in there is at an angle that I can move with the output shaft itself but still won't go down any further. Any thoughts or suggestions. Im very patient and keep trying to rotate it but its not going in properly. Thanks for any info from anyone.
Thanks for the video. I have a very similar transaxle on my Poulan Pro mower. How much gear oil was needed when you reassembled it?
Did you all purchase and use the actual sealant specified in the parts break down?
Do you need to pull all the linkage brackets off the side if you are only going to put the spiral retaining ring back on the axles?
Okay once you took the fan off and the pulley off of the drive shaft going into the top of the transmission how did you take that shaft out before you were able to pull out the hydro pump
great video joe! it has been a big help! i am trying to put mine back together and i am a little lost i admit it. i has to get a new axle for mine, i got that put in with no problem. now i am stuck with the break parts and a few of the other things to. do you have a video that show how to put back together i hope? thanx beau
No, I use black RTV sealant. As with any sealant, the surface must be VERy clean and free of oil, do not over apply, just enough to squeeze out slightly from between the cases and be sure it is completely set up before adding any fluid. At least a full day. Longer if possible. Good luck
Joe, Thanks so much for your vids. I have refurbed hundreds of mowers for a hobby but as you know, the transaxle is rarely a problem. I have a Hydro-Gear that I'm about to tear apart - like yours. My question, I've checked everything external but if I hold one wheel up and the other on the ground, I can spin the elevated one freely. Swap them around and again, one in air spins freely. Seems like this should be impossible. Suggestions??? the hydro doesn't work but barely in normal operation. My thanks. Scott
What size bit do i use to remove the oil filler plug at the top of the transaxle?
Awesome. Glad you found the problem. Were you able to get it back together and working again?
I know that there is a snap ring probably holding it in I see that much but what steps or technique did you use to pull the shaft out
Hey Joe. Awesome video. I have mine apart, but having trouble getting the input shaft out. You mentioned “with a little effort” and you can get it out. Any trick there? I am stuck there. Appreciate any suggestions.
Any idea where I can get the filter...my dealer here in Canada seem outrages in price..around $50.00 out of Ontario, shipping is about half.
Not sure on the time. Teardown went fairly quick. Maybe an hour. Cleaning all the parts and the sealing surface on the case halves took the most time. Reassembly is about the same as teardown. I put all new seals in while it was apart. total was around $80. That was all seals, fluid and sealant. I was able to reuse the filter base, but those are less than 10 bucks. Well worth it considering the cost of a new or even rebuilt unit.
Hydro-Gear Authorized Substitution : The part number 51133 has been changed to 70756. While the new part may look different, it is a manufacturer approved substitution.
I have the same issue i have to order the base yet and hopefully everything works out. This video was very helpful thankyou.
I have a Husqvarna CZ4817 zero turn riding mower that I just replaced the drive belt and ty-rod. It worked fine for 12 hours of mowing (4 different times).
I was mowing last night, went to use the right arm to back up and it would barely move backwards. It moves forward just fine and turns just fine. It just want back up on the right side. Left side works fine in all directions. Please ya’ll any ideas on what to look for, where do I start?
Thank you so much in advance.
Thanks,,,Where can I find a parts diagram and parts list ? Where did you purchase necessary parts?
No pop rivets. I found that the filter base and filter are available out there. Do not go to Sears. Bad news dealing with them. I saw it on another site not long ago. U may have to do some searching though
I have put the link to Hydro-Gears video on the purge procedure in the video description. Hope everything works out.
Hey my drive shaft won't come out, I pulled off the c clip and seal and pulled hard but no go! any hints? Is this maybe my power loss problem. When the oil heats up I lose power to the point where it won't drive fwd or rev. I can't pull out the pump yet to see if my bypass plate is seated correctly or the tolerances on the pistons are out? I'm at a loss please help !
Great video. Can you please share where you buy your parts? Thanks so much.
very good. I am also inspecting the internals for this same 310-510 hydro gear.
one suggestion that you touched on: yes, it is very important to maintain a dust and dirt free environment. I used alcohol to clean everything inside...alcohol at the 90 percent concentration is cheap at walmart. Use compressed air to blast out all the old oil first, then use the alcohol to loosen up the fine metal debris inside. I did not replace my filter. I just rinsed it really well with alcohol. I replaced all the seal. I used saran wrap to protect the seals when sliding over axles and and threaded posts. I also used alcohol to remove all the old silicone along with a scrotchbrite pad. I used permatex blue as a threadlocker for the two bolts...followed the manual and used a proper torque bar! I also used permatex ultra grey for the case sealant. The trick is to let the sealant cure for about 20-30 minutes and then tighten the bolts down. I followed the manual for torque pattern and torque values. Because it's a clam shell, I used a step up torgue method. By this I mean I torqued all the bolts down to 80 percent of the rated torque values, and then gradually increased the torque settings stepping up all the way to the stated torqued. In this way, you are less likely to cause the cases to warp and close at different rates. This also helps to mash the sealant correctly and evenly. I let the case sealant cure for 48 hours before adding oil. I put the case in a warm area to make sure the sealant cured properly. Note: try to avoid putting too much sealant in the case mating surfaces. only need about a 1/16 of and inch thickness! I used a small chemical brush to paint the mating surfaces. If some of the sealant went over the inside edge of the case, I removed that with a easy finger wipe. It's asking for problems having sealant "dangling" inside the case.
and then the most important part: after you fill with 20W50 oil, you MUST purge all the air from the pump! This involves removing any load from the transaxle. (off the ground, no tires mounted). In this way, you move the oil into the pump and purge all the air from the system, without causing lots of stress on the pump when it has no oil and lots of air inside! . What I did was attach my electric drill to the input shaft pulley nut and moved the bypass valve to open (first).. I started off slow and moved transmission from forward to reverse about 50 times while spinning the input shaft. After the first 20 times, then I put the drill in medium speed. For the last 10, I went full speed on the drill. If you want to actually see this air being purged remove the oil expansion tank line and put it in a glass jar full of 20W50 oil. You will be able to see the air bumbles in the glass jar. After those 50 times I then moved the bypass valve back to normal drive and did the same process...also unloaded, no wheels attached..off the ground. Do this another sequence and make sure the bubbles stop happening in the glass jar. When the bubbles stop, then put the oil line back into the expansion tank...make sure to fill the expansion tank at least 2/3 so that the oil tube is submerged in oil! Then give it a test run under load, wheels on.
for my hydrogear, the only thing keep it cool was a rather small plastic fan. So I made sure I cleaned the transmission case as best as I could to remove any sludge, dirt and oil ...in this way, it can radiate heat way more efficiently.
When you got it all together that was the problem ?
Thanks for the video. My son is building a mud mower and it has this transaxle. He is wondering if it could be lockered. I see that it can be done. Thanks 😊
I believe he would be better off with a geared trans. Best luck
Ended up being the shafts on the main diff spider gears is wore out....great video tho
Thanks for the video, it is helpful, but I'm having the same problem as Jim Nichols with removing the input shaft. How did you "gently apply pressure" to the shaft to remove it? Thanks.
I had same problem...I had taken the 3 center plate bolts out..I reinstalled them tight and the input shaft just slid out (after outside seal and clip were removed).
Thanks for the great video! I have a question regarding the check valves. I found the exact same problem and noticed only one valve had an o-ring seal. Should they both have o-rings? the seal kit looks to have only one o-ring in it.
Pls check the diagrams at hydrogear for your particular transmission to be sure
red thread lock comes out easily if you heat the bolt, i think thats literally what the package says to do to remove it.
I took mines apart hoping to see the same thing and I didnt. My hydro gear wasnt going intio forward or reverse. I only thing I can think of is replacing the pumps and center section.
So Marie, how did it go. Is it back in and working again? I sure hope it was worth the time. Let me know
Where did you get the parts? In particular the base filter......170398
The Hydro-Gear link is no longer available. Do you have the torque specs you used for the case bolts? Your video was fantastic. I have this exact one I’m working on. I followed you on here. Thanks
Need help!! Will the 314-0510 transaxle replace a 7a64084090 transaxle? My father in law ran a lawnmower business, bought and sold mowers and parts. He recently passed away and his son and i are keeping his business up but we're still learning. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Hey buddy how do I replace the hydro fluid in the hydrogear transmissions mine looks like yours but mine is 618-0319 I have a cub cadet I wonder if it is possible to change the fluid.
check the link in the description. Takes u to the service manuals. Step by step instructions there
I having problem with hydro that when you push it in forward it doesn't go until you pusher shifter far enough it jumps into gear
Hey Joe I'm working on a hydro gear 618-0319 it would just barely pull itself its like something is by passing somewhere . Where do you think I should look for a problem?? I have the case apart and gears out but have not taken the pump and drive out. It is just like the one in your video internally it is a 2014 Cub Cadet with low hours kinda mysterious that its having issues.
I do not any info for you. This was a one time deal tearing this apart. Luckily it worked when I put it back together. Sorry I can't help
I picked up a mower with this transmission - I drove it around my yard, then I stopped.. now it won't go into gear and won't unlock for pushing.. Do you think just changing the oil may fix it? Or do you think something more serious is the problem.. If I change the oil, what should I use and how much should I put in?
There may be a mechanical issue. Only someone looking at the machine would be able to diagnose the problem. Best luck
Can any of you tell me how long it took to tear down and reassembly and your approx final cost in parts? I have the same problem with my 12 yr old Craftsman 314-0510 transaxle. I am pretty handy with tools and rather mechanically inclined but would feel more confident knowing I will find the parts needed to fix it. I am also weighing the cost of buying a whole new center section part #170444 if I can be sure everything I would need is included in it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My thrust bearing on input shaft /pump was blown out.
Does anyone know the torque values of the case
This is the only video I found of this axle.I pulled my bypass rod and now it wont engage? Now I know its a valve. I changed the oil right before pulling the bypass so I'm assuming its air bound? Thanks for making a good detailed video.
Wat machine did this come off of ?
What holds the axle inside,the right one has come out .
Thanks Joe for this very helpful video. I'd like to get the repair manual from hydro-gear but that link seems to have been discontinued. Any idea where to find a new link?
Sorry, I do not. Im sure they're out there somewhere. Good luck
@@jomishx Perhaps you can help. My Husqvarna YTH1542XP simply needed a new tire. Wheel was stuck so I forced it and the entire axle came out. So now I've taken apart the transmission and trying to figure out how the axle stays in place. Is the seal suppose to keep the axle from slipping out? How do I find a replacement seal for the axle? Thanks for any advise.
The Hydro-Gear 314-0510 takes 79 fl. ozs of 20/50W engine oil
Marie H, Thank you. That is the reason why I watched this video. Have a great day.
Where do you put the fluid into one of these?
It is a 3/4"plug on top of the transaxle. You can check with axle not removed. 3/4" from top. If you are change the oil. I'd check out the service manual first. Also to replace the fluid, you will have pump it in. Or remove the transaxle or gas tank.
@@markr.2781 Thanks. I found it. I took the plug out and the oil looked good in there to me. It turned out the clutch spring had lost tension so the drive belt was slipping. It looked like it was going but it just wasn't going like it should.
Well I've been waiting 9 mos. for the reassembly video you promised.... LOL just kidding. No I'm just trying to decide if I should use an assembly lube on the gears. Not sure though since it is a hydro unit vs. A manual drive. What do you think? Necessary or not?
Just coat parts in 20/50w oil as they go in. Once everything is together and filled with fluid it is ready to purge and use
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!! I love you in a non gay way! I have a craftsman ltx1000 same hydro. And same problem. Fixed because of you thank you soooooo much. Saved my ass BIG TIME!
Awesome. Glad this vid helped ppl out. This is big money to have it fixed by a repair center. Most mower places won't even tear into them. They just wanna drop in a replacement
Unless there is evident damage to the center section, i wouldn't replace it. That is an expensive piece. Good luck