I couldn't really edit this video because adobe is was being a gay fag so sorry I guess. I know the can says 28:1 but that's because 28:1 is what i'll be using after the 24:1.
Dude you are extremely intelligent. You know more about these 2 stroke engines then these half Witts that think they know what they are professionals and talk like they seen it all. I’ve watched them destroy they’re beautiful 30cc rc Engines👦they don’t realize that like nitro gasoline engines have to break in As well.
I appreciate the comment, but I don't think I know that much about small 2 stroke engines at all. I probably just pretend I know what I'm talking about for most of the time. But don't all piston (fine, rotors too I guess) internal combustion engines have to break in before they can reach their full performance? I think so, except for like some of those new evinrude outboard motors that I think they claimed are already broken in from the factory through the process in their factory or something (reving the ripums up in down in some freaking water for x amount of hours, lol).
Love the car. I've had one for just over a year and it's always fun to fire it up and drive around. The other people who put you down for the way you run it, it doesn't matter just remember if it brings a smile to your face you're doing it right.
How fun! I oddly agree and disagree with your comment. I am strangely obsessed with performance, so I believe there is a fastest way to build and tune an engine. I recently swapped the engine of this car onto my Goped Sport, it's in my most recent video. Thanks for the comment, Daniel!
You really don't even need to heat cycle those engines. Just run a good quality mineral 2 stroke oil so the rings can seat and don't run it lean. I worked on small engines for 35+ years and every piece of 2 stroke lawn equipment from cheap homeowner stuff to the expensive commercial grade equipment was run full bore right out of the box with no problems. And the commercial Landscape guys beat the hell out of their equipment day in and day out from new with no problems.
Heat cycles were just something I saw people like Botajell do when he was starting one of his motors for the first time, which made sense to me to do to prevent any possible damage for the first time. However, I don't even think it matters with this knock-off engine. A good non-synthetic oil for break-in to seat the rings and running it rich should do the trick just fine. Thanks for the comment.
Soo glad i decided to heat n seat ... didnt believe the shop when they said they were already broken in... oh rly .. pretty damn clean inside dor something thats run in any capacity
From my experience I can tell you it doesn’t matter one bit with gasoline engines the heat cycles just send them until they explode and buy a new one if it actually does, it’s a hobby, not a job
Sweet buggy! If there’s one thing I could recommend it would be to try out some Super M or K2 oil. We run those in our dirt bikes and my 5b. During a rebuild, you can literally wipe the carbon buildup off with a paper towel. The stuff is amazing.
Thanks for the comment! I’ve heard of Super M, but I believe Castor927 is the the best for protection that money can buy, but Super M and K2 are probably good choices too.
Haha no way. I’m sure the Chinese probably wouldn’t even fill them or at the most maybe halfway with some strange viscosity but I mean it’s a 5th scale basher. But I don’t think there is diff fluid in these. I thought it was just grease most of the time. Or maybe I’m wrong because I kind of remember 10th scale guys messing with diff oil weight. Needless to say I beat the fuck out of that thing and stole the engine and put it on one of my Gopeds. Sorry for the late reply.
In retrospect they’re kind of overpriced and sometimes they leak at the green button which can be extremely annoying, but there’s nothing really better for simplicity that meets the BS gasoline canister requirements.
You may have used JBWeld to keep a plastic piece on the carb, i used ShooGoo (glue) to glue back the plastic fuel inlet at the bottom of the carb. to this day i still run that carb because it doesn't leak and holds a tune lol
Never pull the quick start cord more than three times you can risk flooding the engine. You should’ve just put on the choke. You don’t have to use the choke right after it’s been running for a while and you want to turn it back on.
I’m not no specialist. I don’t even have one yet. It’s coming soon. I just watched so many tutorials and know a lot about it before I bought one and I was just trying to help lol chill
@@user-dz9pq4km9m Do you have any small engine experience? I actually bought another cheap Chinese one like that there in the video, like 3 months ago or so. It is green, and I snapped the frame up front, bent something in the rear suspension, in the same crash, within like the first two weeks of owning it. But with tunning small engines, you can set things like pop off pressure inside the carburetor when modifying it, change the sizes of the needles. They also put those motors on these stand up scooters called gopeds, check my other videos.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 I have a little bit of experience, not too much I know about a four stroke engine in a dirtbike bike and I have small experiences with engines I do have some questions, though if you don’t mind me asking about when I get my buggy it’s I’m going to get it in a few weeks
Ha it was the cheapest $350 banggood special buggy, it wasn't very strong for bashing and stuff. This was all long ago to me but I've since then stole the motor, similar to a cy290rc, from it and put it on my tuner Goped Sport. You can see it in my most recent video, my sport at 2 different times with 2 different engines. If you want to get serious about a 1/5 scale buggy I would recommend a new or used genuine HPI Baja 5b, new if they still even make them. It also costs money to consistently have this kind of fun, for maintaining your car, so be prepared to spend thousands, possibly. But it all might be worth it because everything is electric these days, which is great, but it's good to be different sometimes. You'll be part of the "gas gang" and to some people like me, there's nothing quite like a good 2 stroke, or 4 stroke.
bro 24:1 ouch that poor engine. And remember this, two strokes hate idling! 92 octane is too low you need race gas bud! the Zen manual recommends a minimum of 98 octane those are high compression engines and they need high octane fuel. and 24;1 will never allow your ring to seat properly. There has been so much misguided info on the tube!. Best way to get these engines run in is beat the piss out of them right off the bat. beat it to seat it. its all about mild scuffing to get that ring to seal! On my channel I have totally proven these methods. and have even taken the engine apart to show people that 50;1 is where its at!. if you see smoke its way too rich! braaaap on brother!
I don't believe this Zenoah-knock off enigne is a high compression engine at all(I assume you mean over 13:1), and in the PDF of the official HPI Baja 5b manual I have here, it says to use an octane rating between 92-98, so I used 92 because that is what is readily available to me. I am way too cheap for race gas. I don't think I've heard a more disturbing break-in method for a 1/5 scale gas rc car, or for any internal combustion engine of that matter, even for a 4 stroke. 50:1?? I know nitro-methane engines are very different from 1/5 scale 2 stroke engines, but they can use an oil content up to 20% (which is 5 to freaking 1!). Almost everybody on the gas 1/5 scale and the Goped scene uses a fuel to oil ratio of ~25:1 with a very high quality oil like Maxima Castor927, Amzoil Dominator, Klotz Benol, etc. In a nitro rc manuals I've encountered, they said things along the lines of "You should see smoke, especially during break-in." More lubrication is never a terminal thing for a 2 stroke engine, if anything, it just affects performance. But on the contrary, if a 2 stroke engine doesn't receive a sufficient amount of lubrication, especially during break-in, it can be catastrophic; Pistion, cylinder, and ring/s scoring can occur, which is one of the worst things that can happen. I'm not really sure what you mean by, "two strokes hate idling!" My best guess is you're referring to when excess oil can build up in the crank case, which I don't see how that's a bad thing when a 2 stroke has been idling for a long time, when in times like break-in. Also, what kind of oil are you using, Amzoil Dominator? The oil was red on the piston when you showed the exhaust port in one of your videos. Professionals break-in their engines 180 degrees of beating "the piss out of them right off the bat," while you're just a, and I quote, a "tester." So you're going to have to have some pretty substantial evidence that I should break-in a brand new 2 stroke like a flipping weed wacker. Thanks for the comment, it seems like these days, most of my comments are along the lines of really dumb shit like "haha" and "lol." While I disagree with your practices, it is nice to see someone in the engine part of this hobby who is doing things differently than most people. Your work is impressive. Take care.
I also want to point out that I've had basically no engine issues (that engine ran like a fricken top) while I've had a lot of issues with the rest of the car breaking. I was breaking the plastic roll cage, a lot of other parts, and shredding tires, so I kind of just moved on to the world of Gopeds, something you can actually ride. However, I would like to get back into it sometime. It is supper fun when stuff works.
RabbitFootedKitty well bud I Im 43 Ive been doing this stuff a long time. I used to use 25:1 also. Until I met Allen Cestra with TMR! He has been in the game longer than you n I and he is a professional engine builder! He has tested these engines inside and out! He knows his stuff. So I will trust what he says before anyone else! I appreciate you taking the time to comment back to me and check out my vids. For real man thats awesome! 25:1 to one is old school ways. And nitro cant be compared to gas neither can a four stroke to a two stroke that is like comparing apples to oranges! People are stuck on 25:1 because the old ways of thinking have never died! We dont have junk oils that require 25:1 anymore we got fully synthetic oils like Amzoil dominator yes I use that! Its the very best oil you can use! I also use leaded 105 octane race gas! Im not cheap to a point! I want the upmost power from my rcs and pump gas and 25:1 will never ever give me that. TMR Performance has tried so many break in methods on his dyno and 25:1 idling away built up so much oil in the crankcase that it raised crank case pressure’s causing excess heat that was not necessary. Also in a two stroke when the oil builds up in the crank case and piston ring it has no where to go! Oil dont burn the fuel does the oil for a two stroke is left behind as a film for lubrication. But brother you so what you want bro! I was just sharing my 2 cents which aint worth much to many and Im not a know it all but I know what Im talking about. I wont spew words that make me look like an idiot! Not many people believe me on 50:1 so Im gonna show everyone to prove it to them. Still people will not believe thats just human nature! Jesus walked this earth healing and performing miracles before peoples eyes and they still did not believe in Him either! So some will learn and take on my methods and some will laugh at me! Its all good. God bless brap brother! Stay happy stay brappy!!
Nope I remember it didn’t hold. It’s a cheap ass clone of a walbro these things are to be expected. Since then I swapped the engine onto one of my Goped Sports and swapped the carburetor for a genuine walbro 813 on the scooter. It has an accelerator pump which kicks in at a very high RPM, giving it a little extra go at those speeds when you’re flying down the hill on a scooter with 6 inch hard tires 35 mph with a death wish.
You already replaced the carburetor? If it's a brand new machine, I highly doubt there is anything wrong with the carburetor. You should try setting both of your mixture screws to 1 1/2 turn out and go from there. If it still wont start, spray some starting fluid down the intake so you know that the engine is getting fuel for sure.
Sidney Munro I didn’t understand the part where you said people were “putting me down.” Oh, that’s a really awesome birthday present, when was your birthday?
Love this cars i never had one my self i always borrowed my little brothers nitro car that sucked he busted the power switch but it runs but wont shut off lol bunch of shit anyways but i'm saving up for this baja car i'm gonna get soon i hope.
Sebastian Richardson For fuel? Well I probably got 1 gallon of 93 octane non-ethanol gasoline, so that’s around $3.00 I think. I bought and used a 2 quart container of Caster 927 High Performance 2-Cycle Oil witch cost about $25 if I remember correctly. For the first gallon of fuel for this car, I mixed the gasoline and oil at 24:1 for a slightly richer oil to gas mixture to break the engine in, compared to 28:1 which is what I used after the 1 gallon of 28:1. I found that it costs about $2.08 for 5.33 fluid ounces of oil from my $25, 64 fluid ounce container to to make 1 gallon of 24:1. So for the first gallon, it will cost around $5.08 for 1 gallon of fuel for the model car. But after that first gallon, I ran 28:1 witch is a little leaner oil to gas ratio. So it costs $1.79 for 4.6 fluid ounces of oil from my container to make 28:1. So from now on, using a 28:1 gasoline to oil mixture, it will only cost $4.79 for a gallon of fuel each time you fill up a fuel can for a gas rc car. Anyways, I can say it’s definitely waaayyy cheaper than running a nitro rc car. A gallon of Traxxas 20% nitro Top Fuel costs like $30! And nitro cars do burn through a gallon of fuel in less time then you might think. I’ve been through probably 3-4 gallons of fuel in a year when I used to run my T-Maxx with an O.S. .21 Tm engine in it.
Sebastian Richardson nah, it only about 15 minutes of remembering prices and simple math. Top speed? I would guess about 20-25 mph from my Rovan Baja 5b, but it depends on what car and the gear ratios that are being used. Happy to help.
My most recent thing which I just bought this past Saturday for $1500 and just applied a new tittle for is a 2009 Smart ForTwo W451 chassis second generation Smart car, which has a 1.0 L I like 3 cylinder that puts out around 90 hp (from the crank I assume) with like a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission that is automatically controlled by the computer with servos for the clutch and gears. It’s super fun to drive and I’m going to save a lot of money on gas since my commute to work is 50 miles total every single day I go to the shop.
I wish, but not really. It kinda has a shit ton of problems that I don’t want to fix because the cost of the parts would probably exceed the cost of the car itself. The exhaust is broken, the rear tires are all torn up, the roll cage is fucked in the ass, the rear shock tower is bent to hell, and there’s probably other problems I forgot about by now. Oh, and the steering linkage sucks dick. The servo is fine, but I had to plan my turns pretty early. It’s sitting in my room right now, out of gas in storage. I must say, it was fun while it lasted. Also the engine ran pretty damn good, it started super easy and it ran consistently great. I’m not sure if, or when I’ll fix it, but it’s probably my fault for not buying a genuine hpi baja 5b or whatever. Ironically, I’m now just into another expensive ass hobby, dicking around with my Goped GSR40. I’ve probably placed a dozen orders from DDM for engine related parts. Gas tank, fuel lines, engine gaskets, carburetor upgrade, ignition coil to mod, throttle cable, and a whole bunch of shit I can’t remember off the top of my head. I’m almost done rebuilding the engine. The new cylinder ported by Earth Surfer Products should be coming in today actually, Saturday, the 12th. I broke the throttle shaft on the new 60 freakin dollar carburetor when I tried to drill a hole in the throttle body so I could use the proper linkage. *sigh*
My mom will probably hit me for spending $200 on engine parts instead of using it to buy parts for a lighting system. A 18W headlight, a horn, a rear light, a 5000mAh battery, and some other shit. I paid $580 for the GSR40 and I think I paid way too much for the shity condition it is in.
That hoodie rocks man!!
Dude you are extremely intelligent. You know more about these 2 stroke engines then these half Witts that think they know what they are professionals and talk like they seen it all. I’ve watched them destroy they’re beautiful 30cc rc
Engines👦they don’t realize that like nitro gasoline engines have to break in
As well.
I appreciate the comment, but I don't think I know that much about small 2 stroke engines at all. I probably just pretend I know what I'm talking about for most of the time. But don't all piston (fine, rotors too I guess) internal combustion engines have to break in before they can reach their full performance? I think so, except for like some of those new evinrude outboard motors that I think they claimed are already broken in from the factory through the process in their factory or something (reving the ripums up in down in some freaking water for x amount of hours, lol).
awesome bro....thats sick
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Love the car. I've had one for just over a year and it's always fun to fire it up and drive around. The other people who put you down for the way you run it, it doesn't matter just remember if it brings a smile to your face you're doing it right.
How fun! I oddly agree and disagree with your comment. I am strangely obsessed with performance, so I believe there is a fastest way to build and tune an engine. I recently swapped the engine of this car onto my Goped Sport, it's in my most recent video. Thanks for the comment, Daniel!
Nice Video, nice Car, I love the 1:5 Rovan Cars
Those who disliked, only did so because this intelligent kid supports the best President in modern history
To be fair, you have to have a very high IQ to vote for the smartest man in the universe.
You really don't even need to heat cycle those engines. Just run a good quality mineral 2 stroke oil so the rings can seat and don't run it lean. I worked on small engines for 35+ years and every piece of 2 stroke lawn equipment from cheap homeowner stuff to the expensive commercial grade equipment was run full bore right out of the box with no problems. And the commercial Landscape guys beat the hell out of their equipment day in and day out from new with no problems.
Heat cycles were just something I saw people like Botajell do when he was starting one of his motors for the first time, which made sense to me to do to prevent any possible damage for the first time. However, I don't even think it matters with this knock-off engine. A good non-synthetic oil for break-in to seat the rings and running it rich should do the trick just fine. Thanks for the comment.
Lawn equipment don't run at the same rpms these engines do. You allways do a break in on these.
Soo glad i decided to heat n seat ... didnt believe the shop when they said they were already broken in... oh rly .. pretty damn clean inside dor something thats run in any capacity
From my experience I can tell you it doesn’t matter one bit with gasoline engines the heat cycles just send them until they explode and buy a new one if it actually does, it’s a hobby, not a job
Sweet buggy! If there’s one thing I could recommend it would be to try out some Super M or K2 oil. We run those in our dirt bikes and my 5b. During a rebuild, you can literally wipe the carbon buildup off with a paper towel. The stuff is amazing.
Thanks for the comment! I’ve heard of Super M, but I believe Castor927 is the the best for protection that money can buy, but Super M and K2 are probably good choices too.
Klots 2 stroke oil is the best run it my built banshee an my rovan 5t truck I run my rovan at 50 to one since new an no issues
Man i love this car, good info, thanks for the video.
Did you remove and re oil differential before first run,I hear you have to,that sucks if you do
Awesome car.Good video.
great video! cool car 👍🏻🍻⛽️🔥
You are what you call people
What i need to do if my baja dont start after hundret pulls up 😢 Im wat to cry please help me! Pulls and pulla and dont start
Great too see young folks out getting technical getting their hands dirty lol😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Love my Baja. Good choice 👍
How is this holding up?
Nice video dude...subbed from 🏴👍😎
Does he absolutely need ethanol-free fuel? where can I buy this fuel in the USA? Or can I not bother and use regular gasoline?
You can separate the ethanol from gasoline if you can't get nonethanol near you, it's easy to find info on CZcams
Did you check the socks and diff oil levels? if so was ut straightforward?
Haha no way. I’m sure the Chinese probably wouldn’t even fill them or at the most maybe halfway with some strange viscosity but I mean it’s a 5th scale basher. But I don’t think there is diff fluid in these. I thought it was just grease most of the time. Or maybe I’m wrong because I kind of remember 10th scale guys messing with diff oil weight. Needless to say I beat the fuck out of that thing and stole the engine and put it on one of my Gopeds. Sorry for the late reply.
2:50 "NoSpill"™ nice showing how it works,
In retrospect they’re kind of overpriced and sometimes they leak at the green button which can be extremely annoying, but there’s nothing really better for simplicity that meets the BS gasoline canister requirements.
You may have used JBWeld to keep a plastic piece on the carb, i used ShooGoo (glue) to glue back the plastic fuel inlet at the bottom of the carb. to this day i still run that carb because it doesn't leak and holds a tune lol
Never pull the quick start cord more than three times you can risk flooding the engine. You should’ve just put on the choke. You don’t have to use the choke right after it’s been running for a while and you want to turn it back on.
@@user-dz9pq4km9m I know what the hell I’m doing mister arm chair 2 stroke specialist master technician
I’m not no specialist. I don’t even have one yet. It’s coming soon. I just watched so many tutorials and know a lot about it before I bought one and I was just trying to help lol chill
@@user-dz9pq4km9m Do you have any small engine experience? I actually bought another cheap Chinese one like that there in the video, like 3 months ago or so. It is green, and I snapped the frame up front, bent something in the rear suspension, in the same crash, within like the first two weeks of owning it. But with tunning small engines, you can set things like pop off pressure inside the carburetor when modifying it, change the sizes of the needles. They also put those motors on these stand up scooters called gopeds, check my other videos.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 I have a little bit of experience, not too much I know about a four stroke engine in a dirtbike bike and I have small experiences with engines I do have some questions, though if you don’t mind me asking about when I get my buggy it’s I’m going to get it in a few weeks
I have a question about getting a Killswitch and installing it
Nice video 🙂👍
How’s this thing been treating you? Reliable truck?
Ha it was the cheapest $350 banggood special buggy, it wasn't very strong for bashing and stuff. This was all long ago to me but I've since then stole the motor, similar to a cy290rc, from it and put it on my tuner Goped Sport. You can see it in my most recent video, my sport at 2 different times with 2 different engines.
If you want to get serious about a 1/5 scale buggy I would recommend a new or used genuine HPI Baja 5b, new if they still even make them. It also costs money to consistently have this kind of fun, for maintaining your car, so be prepared to spend thousands, possibly.
But it all might be worth it because everything is electric these days, which is great, but it's good to be different sometimes. You'll be part of the "gas gang" and to some people like me, there's nothing quite like a good 2 stroke, or 4 stroke.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 Thank your for the reply! I’ll check out the video! And thanks for the info!!
@@kellensautomotive Sure thing! I appreciate you taking a look at my other video!
Great content
bro 24:1 ouch that poor engine. And remember this, two strokes hate idling! 92 octane is too low you need race gas bud! the Zen manual recommends a minimum of 98 octane those are high compression engines and they need high octane fuel. and 24;1 will never allow your ring to seat properly. There has been so much misguided info on the tube!. Best way to get these engines run in is beat the piss out of them right off the bat. beat it to seat it. its all about mild scuffing to get that ring to seal! On my channel I have totally proven these methods. and have even taken the engine apart to show people that 50;1 is where its at!. if you see smoke its way too rich! braaaap on brother!
I don't believe this Zenoah-knock off enigne is a high compression engine at all(I assume you mean over 13:1), and in the PDF of the official HPI Baja 5b manual I have here, it says to use an octane rating between 92-98, so I used 92 because that is what is readily available to me. I am way too cheap for race gas.
I don't think I've heard a more disturbing break-in method for a 1/5 scale gas rc car, or for any internal combustion engine of that matter, even for a 4 stroke. 50:1?? I know nitro-methane engines are very different from 1/5 scale 2 stroke engines, but they can use an oil content up to 20% (which is 5 to freaking 1!). Almost everybody on the gas 1/5 scale and the Goped scene uses a fuel to oil ratio of ~25:1 with a very high quality oil like Maxima Castor927, Amzoil Dominator, Klotz Benol, etc. In a nitro rc manuals I've encountered, they said things along the lines of "You should see smoke, especially during break-in." More lubrication is never a terminal thing for a 2 stroke engine, if anything, it just affects performance. But on the contrary, if a 2 stroke engine doesn't receive a sufficient amount of lubrication, especially during break-in, it can be catastrophic; Pistion, cylinder, and ring/s scoring can occur, which is one of the worst things that can happen. I'm not really sure what you mean by, "two strokes hate idling!" My best guess is you're referring to when excess oil can build up in the crank case, which I don't see how that's a bad thing when a 2 stroke has been idling for a long time, when in times like break-in. Also, what kind of oil are you using, Amzoil Dominator? The oil was red on the piston when you showed the exhaust port in one of your videos.
Professionals break-in their engines 180 degrees of beating "the piss out of them right off the bat," while you're just a, and I quote, a "tester." So you're going to have to have some pretty substantial evidence that I should break-in a brand new 2 stroke like a flipping weed wacker.
Thanks for the comment, it seems like these days, most of my comments are along the lines of really dumb shit like "haha" and "lol." While I disagree with your practices, it is nice to see someone in the engine part of this hobby who is doing things differently than most people. Your work is impressive. Take care.
I also want to point out that I've had basically no engine issues (that engine ran like a fricken top) while I've had a lot of issues with the rest of the car breaking. I was breaking the plastic roll cage, a lot of other parts, and shredding tires, so I kind of just moved on to the world of Gopeds, something you can actually ride. However, I would like to get back into it sometime. It is supper fun when stuff works.
RabbitFootedKitty well bud I Im 43 Ive been doing this stuff a long time. I used to use 25:1 also. Until I met Allen Cestra with TMR! He has been in the game longer than you n I and he is a professional engine builder! He has tested these engines inside and out! He knows his stuff. So I will trust what he says before anyone else! I appreciate you taking the time to comment back to me and check out my vids. For real man thats awesome! 25:1 to one is old school ways. And nitro cant be compared to gas neither can a four stroke to a two stroke that is like comparing apples to oranges! People are stuck on 25:1 because the old ways of thinking have never died! We dont have junk oils that require 25:1 anymore we got fully synthetic oils like Amzoil dominator yes I use that! Its the very best oil you can use! I also use leaded 105 octane race gas! Im not cheap to a point! I want the upmost power from my rcs and pump gas and 25:1 will never ever give me that. TMR Performance has tried so many break in methods on his dyno and 25:1 idling away built up so much oil in the crankcase that it raised crank case pressure’s causing excess heat that was not necessary. Also in a two stroke when the oil builds up in the crank case and piston ring it has no where to go! Oil dont burn the fuel does the oil for a two stroke is left behind as a film for lubrication. But brother you so what you want bro! I was just sharing my 2 cents which aint worth much to many and Im not a know it all but I know what Im talking about. I wont spew words that make me look like an idiot! Not many people believe me on 50:1 so Im gonna show everyone to prove it to them. Still people will not believe thats just human nature! Jesus walked this earth healing and performing miracles before peoples eyes and they still did not believe in Him either! So some will learn and take on my methods and some will laugh at me! Its all good. God bless brap brother! Stay happy stay brappy!!
EastSide RC 50:1 would just destroy an engine, the more oil the better. 24:1 is fine, protects the engine
My pull start broke on its first pull plastic broke inside. Got one on order not happy.
I don’t think I’ve had any issues with the pull start. Which part broke?
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 plastic peace at the bottom. It skips and gets stuck.
@@eddieryan63 is it that white piece that catches on the arms on the flywheel?
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 yes that peace cracked
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 it’s a hobby so things happen got one coming asap.
4:18 2¾ years late "JB Weld"™ comment. Bet its still holding?
Nope I remember it didn’t hold. It’s a cheap ass clone of a walbro these things are to be expected. Since then I swapped the engine onto one of my Goped Sports and swapped the carburetor for a genuine walbro 813 on the scooter. It has an accelerator pump which kicks in at a very high RPM, giving it a little extra go at those speeds when you’re flying down the hill on a scooter with 6 inch hard tires 35 mph with a death wish.
i got the 45cc but i have not been able to fire it up once! there is fuel flow there is spark i even swapped out the carb it still does not fire
You already replaced the carburetor? If it's a brand new machine, I highly doubt there is anything wrong with the carburetor. You should try setting both of your mixture screws to 1 1/2 turn out and go from there. If it still wont start, spray some starting fluid down the intake so you know that the engine is getting fuel for sure.
This is a really good video ignore the people trying to put you down and keep going no matter what they say
Sidney Munro Who’s trying to put me down?
Idk I just wanted to comment on ur video btw I got the same rc car for my birthday
Sidney Munro I didn’t understand the part where you said people were “putting me down.” Oh, that’s a really awesome birthday present, when was your birthday?
Well I didn’t get it yet but my birthday is the 18th
Is it really loud when you get it
it's nitrous or baja
Gasoline 2 stroke
Love this cars i never had one my self i always borrowed my little brothers nitro car that sucked he busted the power switch but it runs but wont shut off lol bunch of shit anyways but i'm saving up for this baja car i'm gonna get soon i hope.
That’s great! In my opinion, gas cars are much easier to tune and way cheaper run than nitro cars, so you should have a blast. Cheers mate
but super fast gasoline rc car
What is this for petrol?
Yes, this is a gas/petrol powered rc buggy.
Hey how much does the fuel cost? For a full tank ?? Great vid btw
Sebastian Richardson For fuel? Well I probably got 1 gallon of 93 octane non-ethanol gasoline, so that’s around $3.00 I think. I bought and used a 2 quart container of Caster 927 High Performance 2-Cycle Oil witch cost about $25 if I remember correctly. For the first gallon of fuel for this car, I mixed the gasoline and oil at 24:1 for a slightly richer oil to gas mixture to break the engine in, compared to 28:1 which is what I used after the 1 gallon of 28:1. I found that it costs about $2.08 for 5.33 fluid ounces of oil from my $25, 64 fluid ounce container to to make 1 gallon of 24:1. So for the first gallon, it will cost around $5.08 for 1 gallon of fuel for the model car. But after that first gallon, I ran 28:1 witch is a little leaner oil to gas ratio. So it costs $1.79 for 4.6 fluid ounces of oil from my container to make 28:1. So from now on, using a 28:1 gasoline to oil mixture, it will only cost $4.79 for a gallon of fuel each time you fill up a fuel can for a gas rc car. Anyways, I can say it’s definitely waaayyy cheaper than running a nitro rc car. A gallon of Traxxas 20% nitro Top Fuel costs like $30! And nitro cars do burn through a gallon of fuel in less time then you might think. I’ve been through probably 3-4 gallons of fuel in a year when I used to run my T-Maxx with an O.S. .21 Tm engine in it.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 thanks alot, will probs use your 28:1, thanks for the info and advice must have taken a while to find all of this out 😂
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 and also whats the top speed with 28:1?
Sebastian Richardson nah, it only about 15 minutes of remembering prices and simple math. Top speed? I would guess about 20-25 mph from my Rovan Baja 5b, but it depends on what car and the gear ratios that are being used. Happy to help.
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 and how long does this last?? Sorry to keep asking questions
5:40 yup! Thats the look of a happy tech., oh and a big congratulations to the grandfather of this new family addition. Teamwork memories are forever.
My most recent thing which I just bought this past Saturday for $1500 and just applied a new tittle for is a 2009 Smart ForTwo W451 chassis second generation Smart car, which has a 1.0 L I like 3 cylinder that puts out around 90 hp (from the crank I assume) with like a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission that is automatically controlled by the computer with servos for the clutch and gears. It’s super fun to drive and I’m going to save a lot of money on gas since my commute to work is 50 miles total every single day I go to the shop.
Have you ended up fixing this badboy after that flywheel video? lmao
I wish, but not really. It kinda has a shit ton of problems that I don’t want to fix because the cost of the parts would probably exceed the cost of the car itself. The exhaust is broken, the rear tires are all torn up, the roll cage is fucked in the ass, the rear shock tower is bent to hell, and there’s probably other problems I forgot about by now. Oh, and the steering linkage sucks dick. The servo is fine, but I had to plan my turns pretty early. It’s sitting in my room right now, out of gas in storage. I must say, it was fun while it lasted. Also the engine ran pretty damn good, it started super easy and it ran consistently great. I’m not sure if, or when I’ll fix it, but it’s probably my fault for not buying a genuine hpi baja 5b or whatever. Ironically, I’m now just into another expensive ass hobby, dicking around with my Goped GSR40. I’ve probably placed a dozen orders from DDM for engine related parts. Gas tank, fuel lines, engine gaskets, carburetor upgrade, ignition coil to mod, throttle cable, and a whole bunch of shit I can’t remember off the top of my head. I’m almost done rebuilding the engine. The new cylinder ported by Earth Surfer Products should be coming in today actually, Saturday, the 12th. I broke the throttle shaft on the new 60 freakin dollar carburetor when I tried to drill a hole in the throttle body so I could use the proper linkage. *sigh*
@@rabbitfootedkitty1339 Your wallet is crying right now
My mom will probably hit me for spending $200 on engine parts instead of using it to buy parts for a lighting system. A 18W headlight, a horn, a rear light, a 5000mAh battery, and some other shit. I paid $580 for the GSR40 and I think I paid way too much for the shity condition it is in.
See u
Starts it up at 4:58 ....
Actually 5:37
Rovan mixing bottle is a piece of shit gets every where no spill I need one but done sell them in the uk have to pay 15 uk pounds shipping
🙀👻
What the hell is that even supposed to mean? Your IQ level is the amount of emojis you commented on my video?
Ur right about Kevin talbot haha
Ha, thanks for the comment. He tends to over exaggerate on a lot of things, but he's still a cool dude to check out.
Go trump
Trump2020