How To CUT STRAIGHT With NO GUIDE! Freehand CIRCULAR SAW CUTTING...Pro Tips, Tricks and Secrets!
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 05. 2024
- Check Out Our FREE GUIDE: 25 Must-Have Carpentry Tools...Under $25 Each!
www.thehonestcarpenter.com/
AFFILIATE TOOL LINKS:
Makita Magnesium Circ Saw 7-1/4":
amzn.to/34flnYS
Skilsaw Lightweight Worm 7-1/4":
amzn.to/3qYLtr4
Skilsaw Sidewinder 7-1/4" (Best Cost/Value):
amzn.to/3353qfh
Dewalt Sidewinder 7-1/4":
amzn.to/3EZWHAz
Dewalt 20V Max Cordless 6-1/2" (Tool Only):
amzn.to/3JMZmAS
Makita 18v LXT Cordless 6-1/2" (Tool Only):
amzn.to/3zvwJDN
Diablo 7-1/4" Circular Saw Blade:
amzn.to/337kIbj
(Please Note: These are AFFILIATE LINKS. When you shop through these links, we receive a small commission at NO EXTRA CHARGE TO YOU.)
==================================
CHECK OUT MY KIDS’ BOOKS ON AMAZON!! DUNGEONWORLD is a funny, fast-paced fantasy series for kids ages 7 and up. (All books are written by me! They’re available below in paperback and ebook.)
ONE HOT SPARK (Dungeonworld #1):
a.co/d/1yFGGBW
THE BIG WHIFF (Dungeonworld #2):
a.co/d/2yyYZRc
BANG THE WAR DRUM (Dungeonworld #3):
a.co/d/cXZJaL7
THE ROYAL MESS (Dungeonworld #4):
a.co/d/jazeVXT
THE GHOUL RANCH (Dungeonworld #5):
a.co/d/bwIOY7Q
I DON’T HAVE SPONSORS, I DON’T USE PATREON. BUT IF YOU’D LIKE TO SUPPORT THE CHANNEL, CONSIDER BUYING A BOOK OR TWO...IT WOULD MEAN THE WORLD TO ME!! :)
===================================
CHECK OUT OUR OTHER TOOL-RELATED VIDEOS:
Circular Saw Rip Fence:
• This SIMPLE Attachment...
Pocket Joinery Explained:
• Pocket Holes / Pocket ...
Shop Vac Filter Bags:
• Never Use A SHOP VAC W...
How To CUT STRAIGHT With NO GUIDE! Freehand CIRCULAR SAW CUTTING...Pro Tips, Tricks and Secrets!
I've been asked a lot of times how I cut straight with a circular saw WITHOUT using a guide or fence. In this short video, I'll explain some techniques that will help anyone cut straight with a circular saw freehand!
PLEASE NOTE: Circular saws are dangerous. This is just an instructional video. If you attempt to use a circular saw, you do so at your own risk. Please follow all safety instructions as they are described in the manufacturer's guidelines for your saw. And please be careful!
Here are the keys to cutting straight freehand with a circular saw:
1. Make sure you're cutting on a stable surface.
2. Establish a cut line--I create mine using a steel straight edge.
3. Spend time on your initial line-up--you want the blade of the circular saw to be in line with the cut path BEFORE you start cutting.
4. Keep both hands on the saw at initial startup. Let the saw spin all the way up before contacting the wood.
5. Proceed very slowly in the beginning--attempt to split the cut line in half up the center.
6. Try to get the full length of the blade into the material on the cut line.
At this point, cutting with a circular saw becomes more stable because much of the blade is encased in the wood (the blade is sitting in the kerf that it has made).
The circular saw wants to cut in a straight line. Don't let it veer too far off course! Only make small micro-corrections to keep it on track, and try to keep it moving.
When you're about a foot into the board, you can consider taking your free hand off the pommel and putting it on the board you're cutting to support it.
Don't back up too much! This can cause gouges at the front and back of the cut.
If you have to stop cutting, let the circular saw wind all the way down, and don't budge it. Before you start up again, let the saw spin all the way up to full speed, then try to get right back onto your same cut line.
To finish, pass the blade all the way through the board, then lift it away before the sole plate falls off the far edge.
As always, BE EXTREMELY SAFE WHEN USING CIRCULAR SAWS. Again, this is just an instructional video. Don't use a saw without supervision if you're new to carpentry and woodworking. BE SAFE!!
THANKS FOR WATCHING!
The Honest Carpenter - Jak na to + styl
Here is a Pro carpentry tip I learned from a legendary cartoonist. When freehand drawing a line look just in front of your pencil or pen. If you look at the pencil your eyes are telling your brain where the pencil has been instead of telling your hand where to go. Look on a 1/4"-1/2" ahead for a more steady clean line. It takes a little practice but tells your brain where the pencil is AND your hand where to go.
This applies to cutting wood freehand as well. After establishing the cut look slightly forward on the line not directly at where the blade touched the wood. Remember, tell your hand where to go, not where it's been.
Great advice...remember your hand follows your eye's!
just like riding a motorcycle, dont look where youve been, look where you want to go!
@@chapygraceOr skiing - look for the path, not the trees!
A mistake by the newbies out there...(I was one once) not making sure BEFORE starting your cut that you have enough free cord to reach the entire cut...
Oh man, I have definitely done this one too...
Yeah, and that you aren't going to have to move the cord during the cut.
Don't have a cord
I'm qualified and still make this mistake when in a rush lmao
Also…make sure the cord isn’t in the cutting path. It’s a sparking revelation if you don’t 🤣
Tooth count on the blade made the biggest difference for me. For years I ruined sheet goods with a 24 tooth framing blade because it was all I had. Switching to a 60-80 tooth blade made it so easy it was hard to mess up a cut.
I use T40… less expensive and the Dewalt ones are usually on sale at Lowes so it’s a good general purpose tool.. although it probably won’t ever say they’re on sale at the store… at least at my local Lowes I had to find it online and confirm it was on sale 😂😂
I think the saws should be sold without blades. You choose what suits you at time of purchase.
That’s the best circ saw tutorial I’ve ever seen. 40 years using them & I can’t explain it to my 15yo anywhere as well as you did in 10 minutes.
I'm second to you. This vid shall be mandatory for every new user, shall be linked in QR codes in on boxes and CZcams shall show this 1st to everyone searching for circular saw keywords. This man understands the importance of having ten fingers and two feets and what risk a 6000rpm sharpened teeth steel blade means
Thank you, Denis! I really appreciate the positive feedback 😄
Right? I was thinking the exact same thing.
But does your 15yr old understand it? If he’s simply not interested, it won’t matter how well you explain it. I don’t have kids, and I’m almost 40, and still feel like a kid myself, and I notice that kids these days are becoming less interesting in working with tools or simply wanting to fix things on their own. And I think it’s sad. I’ve always been interested in building things and figuring things out and it all started with legos! 😎
Forget about cutting anything other than paneling or thin plywood ... even 3/4" ply bogs it down a lot even when cutting a very VERY slow path. Probably Works great czcams.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c on drywall but who needs the mess of dust flying everywhere when a knife cut will do. Oh, and the red tab on the guard blocks your view of the cutting line once the blade is fully engaged in a cut.
WTF?
I LOVE that you leave your mistakes/imperfections in the video. It really helps my understanding and confidence as a beginner woodworker and power tool user to see real-world examples of what can go wrong, and how, rather than being given only hypotheticals while the B-roll is all glamor shots of your flawless cuts.
Same bro CZcams never fails
Amen! We learn as much from mistakes as successes, maybe more so because we have that brief anxiety which intensifies our focus, learning, and retention.
My dad (a hobby finish carpenter / woodworker) taught me to keep the kerf on the “waste” side of the cut unless the call out was to “take the line”. Then go right down the middle as you described. To line the saw up he told me to put the saw down at the start with the “0” side of the guide notch on the line and look down at the blade and put it as close as possible to the line, approaching from the waste side of the cut. Start the blade as you described and ease the saw forward making additional micro adjustments so the edge of the kerf eases over against the line (all this right at the start). He liked his 1960 B&D circular saw because it blew the sawdust completely off the line just ahead of the saw. I have nice memories working with him as a kid when he was teaching me stuff.
My grandad always said “Cut it fat.” That meant leave the line.
In aus we say cut the mark or leave the mark. I cut just on the mark but leave the mark means leave it clear. We use this when we want half a mm extra or less
I use a piece of foam insulation to support large boards on the floor. It provides complete support to the entire board and the blade cuts into the foam. It also allows you to crawl on the board to make long cuts and limits the problems with cords since there is nothing for them to catch on.
I used to support on 2x4 etc but the foam is so superior and lasts for tons of cuts if the depth is set just more than the wood
Awesome great tip!
What’s this type of foam called and can I get it at a big box store?
@@DISABLED12-7styrofoam, XPS etc. They come as large, lightweight panels and are used for insulation. They will know in the store.
I've been cutting with a circular saw for over 35 years and you taught me some new approaches. Thanks you are never too old to learn
This is the perfect video for us who are first timers with a circular saw. I wanted tips for making straight cuts and this delivers.
I also like how you always put a premium on safety and how to avoid accidents. And last but certainly not least, thanks for clear, concise articulation. It does matter how the advice is delivered. Thanks again and have a nice day.
I successfully used my new circular saw today. Thank you so much!! I must have watched this video, and some of your others like 10 times each before finally just doing it. I feel like I’m starting off on the right track, and I have so much knowledge (experience not so much lol). Love your channel!!
Wonderful video with lots of vital information. This is definitely a must keep to revisit before any cuts for the next few cutting attempts.
As always, Ethan good advice, I'm a self learner Home Dyier & always appreciate your videos & learn from what I may have done incorrectly.
The little tips on backing up when stopping in the middle of a cut and starting away from the wood was helpful. I sometimes had issues starting a cut. Now I know why!
Hello again Ethan
Thank you for another Great Video. That was a Great teaching. And the stessing the safety reminders are needed, Thank you. It's been a long time since I've done any Woodworking. Thank you again for all your tips and suggestions.
Very detail-oriented carpentry lessons. I really learn a lot from you. Thank you.
Thank you so much for all your educational videos. Being a first time home owner requires a lot of assistance from pros like you! God bless and keep up the good work helping other achieve their home project goals.
I own a lot of tools because I love fixing things. I just bought a circular saw & your tips are a treasure. THANKS A LOT!!! Keep up the good work!!!
Thank you. I am new to these saws and thought I could trust the notch at the front of the saw. It hasn’t been too inaccurate, but I will train myself to watch the blade instead. Also, the tip about placing the cut line to the right of the kerf is excellent. Much better than cutting directly on the line, where you can easily lose track of the cut line.
I'm cutting new stringers to repair the stairs on my deck... and I kind of botched the first one. Went back in the house and literally your video showed up in my recommended videos! I watched it and all I can say is thank you. I also watched your 11 Circular Saw Mistakes video too, and I am truly thankful that you are sharing your knowledge on CZcams. Keep it up!
I’ve worked in woodshop since I was kid. Using a circular saw I’ve always had issues with wavy lines. I’ve seen guys pull off some amazing free hand cuts. Watching this video helped a lot, It also helped me understand that no one is perfect without a saw guide lol
Me to since I was a kid, and still can't cut straight, really angers me
Well, the angle of approach is crucial. If you dig in just a degree or two off - you're guaranteed to end up with a bad looking cut. If you can dig-in at the perfect angle and then just remember that your blade is straight and true - you can get reasonably straight freehand cuts but if it's crucial that the cut is nice and straight --- clamp a straight edge to the work or use a guide (I'm sure you know this)
I found that the biggest factor is a decent quality sharp blade. Even my cheap Skilsaw cuts straight and clean with a decent blade. Those Diablo blades work well.
Good point, I got a diablo blade that came with a used saw I picked up and I was so pleased with it. It just feels like it cuts like butter from whatever blades I was using before. I hadn't looked up reviews on blades yet, but noticed it as well in this video.
Incredibly well described, you are an excellent teacher. Well done.
Thanks for the detailed video! Lots of helpful tips that aren't covered in many other videos that show circular saw usage.
I wish I had watched this *before* using my circular saw for the first time to crosscut a plywood sheet for 4' wide french cleats - instead of right after. Thankfully all but my first two cuts turned out pretty well. Took some time to learn the things you covered intuitively.
After 50 years of using a circular saw you reinforced things I do automatically, and I learned new things. You post wonderful videos. Keep it up.
Great info. 2 other tips to consider:
1) when starting cut, you can enter the wood about 1/8” deep a bit on the waste side of line then slide sideways to cut line before proceeding forward.
2) Old school carpenters hold a hand saw (the original cordless kind driven by muscle power) with index finger out of handle and pointed down side of saw. Doing this with a sidewinder circ saw and triggering with middle finger allows index finger to counteract natural tendency of saw to want to drift right since handle is left of blade path.
Keep up the great videos!
I’ll have to try this, thanks!
Old school carpenters? I think you'll find it's just professional carpenters that know what they're doing. 😉
Great video. Very thorough. I'm an experienced Carpenter and can't stress enough the importance of "knowing where your cord is" as mentioned in the video. If you are making cuts that are several feet long this is especially important. Before you start your cut, make sure you have enough extra length on your extension cord to get your saw to the end of the cut. I frequently check my cord or adjust the cord following the saw as I'm cutting to make sure I continue to have enough slack. These are very slow movements when I adjust the cord following the saw and my primary focus continues to be my cut. There's nothing worse than being on track with your cut line and then your cord gets caught on something. Possibly even your body by kneeling on it accidentally if your cutting on the ground. Stop the saw if you have to and free up the cord to finish the cut or preferably avoid this altogether by "knowing where your cord is" and that you have enough slack following behind your saw to finish the cut. Again, great video! Thanks.
Yes!
@Noadvantage246 That charger isn't. Why is it on your workpiece? 🤔🤔
I have been watching THC for a few years now. Each one has a few new pieces of knowledge that micro-adjust my carpentry skills. This one had more than a few. I wish that it had seen it back when I won my first circular saw at a store grand opening in 1986. A lot of kerf has followed my blades since then. Thank you Ethan.
Really helps with getting the confidence to go freehand watching something like this. Thanks for sharing you’ve helped another noob!
Fantastic video. I determined to learn how to do it freehand when I saw a carpenter do it and practiced a lot but you gave the tip I was missing - the starting point is critical. That makes perfect sense and I should have seen that. Thank you SO much for this. Great job! I really appreciate this so much!
Great segment! Many good tips and great safety protocol. I love your channel as in todays world, I have found it next to impossible to find a good carpenter, let alone one I can trust. Your segments educate me on how a project is supposed to be done, and I feel I can ask intelligent question during the work process. Thank you for your channel, keep up the good work!
Lin Hill
Hang out at home Depot. You'll meet a good worker and you'll spot them quick. U can see a hack a mile away😂
He confirmed some things I'm already doing right and I got some new things to consciously work on doing, yay.
Very good info! I just started using a circ saw, and am sooo glad you did THIS video. I also watched the linked video 11 things not to do with a circ saw. Thank you!
I didn't learn anything new on this video, but it was beautifully and clearly explained.
I wish I'd have seen this when I was just starting out.
Hopefully it should help a lot of people.
You always do a great job of delivering a clear, understandable message. Thank you
You have the best "Back to Basics" of tools and woodworking techniques videos I've found yet. Keep 'em coming!
Great video. I’ve got a load of flooring to repair and fit and this has given me the confidence to not get hung up on micro-measuring. It’s not cabinet work, it’s construction so close will be sufficient. This will help me be closer than close and neat and well finished.👍🏻
All good stuff, on an odd note my Grandfather on my mom's side had a metal ruler tack welded to the lead of the shoe in line with the cut and when needing that precision would use it, amazing how seeing the line in front of the saw can allow you to follow it even better.
thats an awesome idea. manufacturers should add something like that, that could be folded up or collapsed in some way when not in use
@@Vid_Master I have one of the laser guides and as long as you don't mistreat it seems to be a hair better. It flip clamps on the board at the end of the cut and lights up a line if set right, I usually will just add a piece of scrap and cut to the end in one run anyway, as long as you don't drop it on pavement pretty good tool.
Thank you for your time and effort you do an excellent job
Man I can’t say thank you enough. I feel like these general tips are so difficult to grasp until you explain them. I always finish your videos with an audible “damn this guys is awesome “
Wonderful! A detailed explanation, the kind that experienced workers think are too obvious to explain. Thanks.
Nice video, great advice.
One extra step I do sometimes to ensure no blowout, is after drawing my pencil line, I'll score the wood with my knife along the straight edge. I learned that trick cutting veneered wood.
Excellent tip. Thank you so much
To improve sighting the precise line of cut, place a clean piece of masking tape (I like yellow for this purpose) across the front edge of the sole plate, right on top of the factory provided notches, if there are any. Make a partial cut and then, with the saw still in the kerf, make fine lines (with mechanical pencil or pen) on the tape to indicate the precise location of both sides of the kerf.
When cutting, no matter how thick the line is that your pencil made on the stock, aim the appropriate side of the kerf markings you made on the tape at one edge (rather than the center) of the marked line, as though the kerf were a miniature car with two sides and the edge of your marked line were the curb of a little highway. Drive the "car" so it doesn't go over the curb.
If you saw in the direction of cut shown in the video, it is much easier to view the cut line with a left-handed saw.
Ergonomically, working on the floor is never a preferred method, requiring far more athleticism than when you can make cuts on well secured and supported stock while standing at horses or a bench.
I've really enjoyed learning, thru your tutelage. Thanks. I have not gotten my tools out in awhile, but I am saving these videos.
I barely started woodworking as a hobby and this is probably the third video of yours that I’ve watched but by the second (the one with the 11 tips for using a circular saw) I told my 13-year old son that if he wants to use the circular saw, he needs to watch that video first. My point is, your videos are a great way to understand the tools and to avoid terrible, very terrible mistakes… Subscribed!
Great video bud!!!!!
I’m a construction Superintendent with a major GC here in Florida.
I’ve seen way too many accidents with our inexperienced Subs.
I will use some of your expertise videos as part of our weekly tool-talk meetings.
Indeed your videos bring a lot to the table when it comes to proper ways of using hand tools and will serve our team a world of knowledge and information. Thanx again and please keep it up🤙🏼💪🏼
Great tips for freehand cutting! Definitely takes practice. I use foam insulation boards when using my circular saw on large boards. It supports the entire board and prevents any damage to the table or ground.
...or the $50 saw blade!!
@@jim.h they cost like $15 Canadian lol
@@williamweatherall8333 I guess it all depends on the blade.
@@jim.h rocking Forrest woodworkers on your skillsaw?
99990009999999999999
This was a great video to watch! I really learned a lot as a beginner! I also like to read the comments from others. It’s all really helpful!
I just want ti say, THANK YOU SO MUCH Honest Carpinter for all your teaching. God Bless you. ❤
Great content as always.
TOOL REVIEW REQUEST:
Harbor Freight Hercules cordless 7 1/4 circular saw. It's got a brushless motor with a brake. I got one on sale, got an upgraded 24 tooth blade for rips and a 40 tooth for everything else. I love it but would enjoy seeing you do a side by side comparison with your Makita and get your opinion.
I worked rough carpentry for more than 20 years making 20 or more cuts on plywood sheeting every day, never looked at the blade and always followed the mark on the front of the saw, Makita, that way you don't have dust and chips flying in your face. I also cut facia using the mark, freehand with perfect joints. Try using one hand and going through it quicker, your other hand is throwing you off, use it to steady yourself or the workpiece.
I’m with you on this. Lots of years cutting, once you learn your own saw you know where the marks put you. Using 2 hands leads to one fighting the other.
Yeah...me too, have done thousands of cuts. I lock my eye on the notch at the front and use one steady locked hand
Years ago I studied joinery at collage and am amazed how detailed and excellent the education on CZcams is. with all the different carpenters giving there knowledge and experience. I'm a huge fan thanks for your exalent vidiows.
Good, straight forward and well articulated advice. Thanks for the tips and the video.
I wish there was a video like this when I first stared using a circular saw. Hopefully a lot of people see this video and don't have to learn the hard way.
Tip! Figure out the distance from your blade to the left edge of the depth plate on the saw. Once this number is figured out, simply mark your cut line with this number subtracted, or added depending on which edge measured from. Now, you can make cut lines that will follow the edge of your depth plate, and never have to look at the blade again. You'll make perfect cuts and people will wonder how you did without looking like at the blade.
this is also known as scribing
how is this any different from following the actual line with the blade? You still have to pay attention to and follow a line.
This method won't account for any deflection of the blade while cutting
Very enjoyable to watch a well coordinated instruction video that was done with proper preparation. Explained everything clearly, no stops or mistakes, & no attempts at good old boy stupid humor. This might be the best U-Tube video I’ve seen.
Thanks Ethan.........you are a wonderful instructor!!
Thank you, Elder!
I've found over the years that a straight cut is much easier with a worm drive saw. A combination of the ease of seeing the cut line and the handle being on the rear so you are pushing the saw straight along the line as opposed to typical saws with the handle higher up. These can make it easier for the cut to wander off course.
I agree, I prefer the form factor for variety of reasons, straighter easier rips, especially cross cutting ply on horses being the main. I cant stand right blade side winders personally.
One way to keep the saw's power-cord out of the way is to drape it back over your shoulder; this will hold it up away from your work-piece, and also allow it to slide freely as you move the saw along the cut.
Or get one of the many cordless available these days that are every bit as powerful as corded.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter can't run those all day🙄
@@tonyz6421 You can easily run them all day. The new battery tech is amazing. Only time I've plugged in a saw in years was either my 10 1/4" or to cut out an entire roof. Any of my cordless 7 1/4" could've cut the roof up but I didn't want to wreck the shoes. What brands do you own that you say can't run all day?
Very effective explanation. It's easy to take knowledge you've acquired for granted; multiple times in vid I was like "yeah, I guess I do do that". You're definitely a born educator!
The only thing I would add, and it's not even a technique, just advice for beginners, is to be prepared for the power and action of saw. I can recall when it was kinda terrifying just to try and handle the saw when on, but if you get a feel for the experience of it speeding up; the resistance as it bites into lumber; the amount of force to apply; the response of lumber as you progress through cut, it's not nearly as intimidating... obviously you get a feel for these things w experience, but too often ppl don't even give what it may feel like any thought prior to trying. I think that's an important but often overlooked aspect of learning anything new.
Whatever you do you should try and improve with each attempt, but that doesn't mean the first try needs to be a disaster : )
Thank you so much for this video. I finally did my freehanded cut, comfortably and confidently.
I used fluorescent orange paint to make two lines with the "cut" perfectly between the two lines on the saw plate. This way all I have to do is follow the line I've drawn on the board with the two lines. Works every time! I recently got a kreg track for circular saws and that has been a godsend for long cuts . But I still use my old method for shorter cuts .
Kreg track? I’m going to have to check that out. Thanks!
Im a little surprised he didn't give the most helpful tip for straight cutting plywood rips... Use/extend your arms as little as possible. keeping your elbows sort of locked and pendulum from your waist and feet. Small shuffles with your feet, and tucked arms with little extension.This is a good way to keep a lot more control while making longer rips. Its much more prone to wobble when your arms are extended.
I've taught for over 3 decades (Driver Education) so, I can honestly say...
...you're a great teacher! Thanks! Subbed!
Thank you guy. I am reassured that I was taught all the correct techniques. Glad to know!
I found that if you cut with your whole body leaning into the cut instead of pushing with your arm you'll be much more accurate.
Tips:
1. You are responsible for EVERYONE's safety with any dangerous situation.
2. New / sharp blades greatly improve beginner success.
3. Avoid abused tools. Warped or bent blades are not obvious. Loose causing blade to wiggle. Something as simple as dragging blade during plunge cut or twisting blade to fix cut direction.
4. Not too slow. By going extremely slow, beginners often increase the size of the kerf causing the blade not to track straight.
As an apprentice in the early seventies, we used worm drive saws roughing or framing. When I moved to commercial finished we used heavy platform circular saws. I remember journeyman telling me, don’t push just guide let the saw do the work. With the worm drive cross-cutting two bys we would square the front of the platform with the opposite side of wood by eye, then cut ! When you got used to it you could cut square every time I checked it with a square when foreman wasn’t looking many times. What really impressed me was cutting window eye brows ( curves) with worm drive saws! Just set your blade barely through material and cut curve slowly, it’s a nice curve smooth for sheathing.
Wow you are such an excellent teacher please keep these videos coming. I am new to this and I you have answered almost every question I had that I couldn’t get answered
Great video. I have just one comment to add: another reason a circular saw tends to keep moving straight while running at full speed is the gyroscope effect of the blade. The spinning blade will naturally try to stay straight because of the spin.
Excellent comment, I never thought about the gyroscopic effect.
Always appreciate your advice Ethan. SAFETY FIRST !! Saws CAN do major damage to you AND your work. My father in law’s old circular saw doesn’t have any of the safety features that newer saws have. I use it for mostly rough cuts. If I have to build a custom cabinet, I think I’ll invest in a decent table saw. I already have a good mitre saw that works well. I’m no longer in the trades. (Semi retired)
Great job on the video. I really appreciate the how you are exhaustive in the detail and cover all the aspects of the task. This is the first video of yours I have watched but it won't be the last, glad I found it.
Very carefully and thoroughly explained, thanks! Really great channel, please keep up the good work.
Good tips. The #1 reason I have to stop a cut is due to poor power cord planning (totally my fault). I always try to plan out where the cord will go before I make a cut, so it does not get caught up on an edge or run out of length partway through. Cordless saws are great for that and I love my 20V Dewalt, using it whenever I can, but knowing its limitations as well.
The cord on my dropsaw is shorter than when it was new ..... wooops
I just learned by my foreman yelling at me, this is excruciating, LOL. For real, nice explanation as usual, I might add that the heavier the saw the more stable it might be so long as it's in good condition otherwise. I'll also say that it is something you do with your entire body, not just your hands and eyes, it's a singular fully coordinated move with your whole body working as one with the saw and the wood. :)
Tell that jerky to piss in his shoes. Don't take guff from no one! They're lucky you even show up. Tell him, If I want people yelling at me I'll stay home for that noise. One of my favorites is to get right in their face and say, Go ahead take a pop at me. I'll own this whole company and you'll still be on your a$$.
THANK YOU for your tips. I took them and did two additional things to help my aging eyes keep the blade straight. I needed to rip cut a 12ft Trex deck board that is light brown, so I ran a strip of blue painters tape along the board and made my pencil mark on the tape. I also laid the board outside in the sun to help me see. It worked! I took my 4ft level to check after making the cut and it isn't perfect, but it is extremely close!!
i just bought a bunch of power tools, and the first one i needed to use was my new circular saw, your video on 11 mistakes helped me do it right the first time, thanks.
I've been cutting freehand over 50 years. You covered the subject well. Every concept you mentioned is vitally important. Newbies should watch the video enough times to be sure they have every procedure in mind when they begin.
The only thing I do a little different is to put the saw cord on top of the wood I'm cutting before starting the cut. That way I don't have to stop while making my cut and have begin the cut again. Just move the cord far enough from the cut line before starting the cut.
Good job.
it depends on the circumstances, but leaving the cordline on the workpiece is not a good advice. leave just enough cord so the saw operates freely and put the cord over your shoulder.
On wider boards, it's still a good idea to start the cut with a speed square as a guide, because it sets the blade on a straight path from the beginning.
Thank you so much, and I have been making some of those mistakes. I will take a look at this video again, and it really was a lot of help.
Just bought a 36v Makita circ to go with my corded, the base plate has the track guide in it now. This is going to change the game!
Why not use the speed square to start the first 6” of cut, then you’re perfectly lined up? Thanks for your thorough logical teaching
Exactly, after that, your saw blade will keep the straight line
Because this time he wanted to show and teach about freehand usage.
I guess if you're going to the trouble to set up a speed square as a start guide, you might as well set up a straightedge for the full cut, and then you're not really doing a freehand cut.
czcams.com/video/sOVyKASzTpk/video.html
You're potentially setting yourself up for trouble at the transition btw being against the square and being free. You could probably do it that way and it might work for you, but i wouldn't use a guide unless it gets you all the way through your cut
There are marks on the base that you can use as a guide as to which side of the line your cut.Follow the line.I put a marked line on the base and it works really well. Cut on the " waste " side of the line
Thank you! This has always felt like magic, so cool to be let in on some of the magician’s tricks!
Nice!!! I'm a rank novice at power tools and DIY construction and have just discovered my miter saw won't be able to cut fascia boards for my deck project!!! I've got a circular saw, too, and I'm hoping your tips and tricks will help me quickly get these three crucial cuts made!!! Thank you for your clarity and confidence-inspiring delivery!!!
Informative usually I make the cutline with a Measuring Line as a guide & then mark it with a Sharpie, then I clamp the board down onto the saw horses I built to get maximum stability.👷🏿♂️
Clamping the board is never a bad idea, W!
Seems to me that my shopfitter friends do really well with this… and forty years of practice !
TIP: EAR PROTECTION MAKES YOU MORE COMFORTABLE SO YOU CAN STAY RELAXED AND FOCUSED. It can be tempting to skip the ear protection, especially for short cuts. DON'T DO IT.
And I’ll make sure to wear my seatbelt while I ride my bicycle as well
Smoking a big fat spliff will make you more relaxed ……..
I always fight to keep de cut straight. I have to sand it always to make it so.
Yes do it
100% agreed
I really appreciate your tips they are honest and straightforward I have learned alot thanks, keep up your great work I look forward to more
Thank you , power tool since 12 years old and I still view quality refresher videos. My fingers are 60 years old and still attached.
I love your videos Ethan, however I think this is too advanced for newbies for a few reasons. One is that why would you want to cut freehand anyway, as a beginner it's much easier to use a straightedge. Secondly I see a problem in that by following the line you are putting your body in line with the blade, I have been taught to have body to the side to avoid the saw coming back at you. I also think that beginners will get over confident and start backing up the saw too much, as a beginner hobbiest myself I would never risk backing a saw up mid cut, just seems too risky to me.
I am in the UK, nearly everybody here has switched to tracksaws for these type of cuts, the saw is not nearly as exposed, you cut to the side and so long as the rail is secure there is none of this stress about following the line. Personally I think once you get a tracksaw you realise how much better they are at cutting sheet matierals, plus they are more fun to use. I get that pros need circular saws as they are quicker but for the weekender they are a high risk tool in my opinion, so tend not to be my first option now.
Great video, definitely some "aha" moments for me. How do you feel about using chalk lines? Are they accurate enough for exterior work? I'm just finishing up a skatepark and we used chalk a lot but sometimes it didn't feel as accurate as a pencil. I also found that I actually get straighter lines when I constantly shift my eye between the blade and the notch on the plate. It seemed to make more sense to look at where I'm going than where I am on the line.
Yes, i too try to both look out ahead of the blade & right at the blade on the line. Kind of like driving - looking out ahead of your travel direction is crucial, but up close too to swerve around turtles & pot holes.
Thanks for the education and sacrificing that beautiful piece of plywood to explain this very important skill.
A very cautious newbie here. Thank you sir...
How do you feel about using a thick piece of insulation as your surface to cut your piece on? Thanks for the informative video!
Like expanded styrene foam sheets, right? Why spend money when you have a bunch of cutoffs that you can use for standoffs. Edit. I just don't have room for a 4x8xX thickness in my two car garage!
I like the foam because the wood is supported 100% and I usually cut 4x8 boards in the driveway.
It works wonders because it supports the wood 100%, much better than the 2x4 method.
you can also compromise. I don't have room to keep a full sheet of foam around. But I do keep strips of 1 to 2' around. And instead of the milled 2x4 (milling is important because 2x4's are never truly straight), I use the foam boards instead. Also, to those that ask "why bother" one simple benefit is that you can stand on the plywood because it's much better supported. When cutting across 4 or 8', you're not going to be able to lean over to complete the cut. With a foam board underneath (even sections of it) you can walk on it w/o pinching the saw blade. And I know this was a straight cut video and he mentioned the "how to safely cut" video, but just make sure that the cut side can fall off freely so it won't pinch and bind.
The 2-inch foam is great. It is reusable and provides excellent safety and support, especially for large sheets. But it works well for smaller pieces. I use a smaller 2x4 section for smaller pieces.
As always. Great video!
I'm an RN and have my own home and I'm learning how to use power tools and do some DIY stuff. I use CZcams a lot. Thank you for these great tips. My dad gave me a circular saw which I've practiced with on some scrap wood. But, now I want my cuts to be straight. Looks like I need to invest in a saw horse and some big boards to make a makeshift workbench as well as some other tools for this.
Thanks for all your good tips.
I learn so much from watching you and this episode was no exception. Thank You.
With you except for “split the line”. The line should be the “keep”side and with a sidewinder that’s normally the left side of the blade - so the kerf is 100% on the right of the line, which is normally the “waste” side. In that orientation the wide side of the saw rests on want you’re keeping and the narrow side is on the cutoff piece.
If you're cutting freehand does it really matter? If it really does matter then why are you cutting freehand?
Completely agree... It's worth the addition (somewhere) that with this set-up, any deviations caused by fatigue (the most common) will generally "pull" the saw into the waste and any "harm" is relatively minimized.
For extra precision, the set-up can also be arranged to leave a tiny bit of waste so that after the circular saw "rough's it in" a final result can be "snuck up on" while you straighten the cut out with a few strokes from hand tools (planes, sanding blocks, files and the like) as appropriate. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 I wasn't going to bring it up but that is what I do. I leave a little and plane to the line. Today not many power tool woodworkers bother with hand planes. Using them can be a chore.
@@1pcfred My experience comes from a LOT of completely custom fittings which lends to using the test and trim methods... A few strokes of a plane is far and away faster than a couple dozen strokes from a file or sandpaper... SO I'm quite prone to mixing and matching power tools for "roughing in" and then hand tools for final precision...
I suspect the "purists" of woodwork are less experienced over all, whether they're entirely hand-tool or entirely power-tool oriented... BUT that's only a suspicion, as there are perfectly good niches to fill with either attitude.
AND as to the chore of pushing or pulling a hand-plane, it really depends on how well the tool fits the job and how well you upkeep and set the tool... The chore for test and trim is carrying the damn piece of work back and forth from project to bench and all... BUT some things can't be escaped entirely. That's what makes it worth someone else's money for ME and YOU to do it.
In any case, with some degree of skill and growth at it, the most efficient shop will balance a "perfect marriage" between power-tools for production and hand-tools (as appropriate) for precision, netting the best of both figurative worlds. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 using a plane is not the chore of the task. Getting a plane ready to use is.
The cut should be on the scrap side of the line. Otherwise, you are removing material from the measured piece.
Great teaching! When cutting framing lumber or 1x materiaI I usually guide the shoe with my thumb against the edge. Not for a novice. I have 40 years in.
Great video! Learned a lot of safety tips for a first time user. Thank you!