WHY does Hilda overheat?!
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- čas přidán 24. 04. 2024
- #hillman #imp #hillmanimp #projectcars #restomod
Water pump for a Beetle? lol!
Shock absorbers for a DS? lol!
Cambelt for an Imp? Oh...actually no, this one does have a cambelt.
It also has an overheating problem. Why? No idea, but it could be the water pump...
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If you ever feel low remember, there’s people out there that love your videos, you’re funny, smart and you educate us at the same time. Whether you’re having a good time with cars or not you make us laugh. If you can make someone laugh that’s always a good thing. Keep up the good work.
Never give up, never give in, a few days of understandable misery and the great mechanic that you are starts to emerge again. Bravo.
Thanks!
Hillman (aka Sunbeam in the Netherlands) Imp, I did my first head gasket repair and valve tune done in the first week of my first job after ending school in the late 60's.
Just like first time with your first love ;-))
Nice video, interesting and entertaining.Thanks!
My 1987 Skoda 120L had a similar front radiator/rear engine set up as the Imp (but longer) and when it got hot, it started making all sorts of burbling and grunting sounds during one of my continental tours. My fears of the head gasket having gone were unfounded. An experienced Skoda mechanic in the Netherlands sorted it out for me with a complete wash out of the radiator and pipes system and replacing the themostat. Lots of gunk in builds up in the coolant system there, often ignored during servicing, apparently.
One theory I've got is that all the work I've done recently with the cooling system has created debris, which has blocked the radiator. I'm not sure, but it's worth checking.
The radiator has only done 2500miles, and it was brand new.
I remember taking driving lessons in a Hillman imp Stiletto model in the late 1960's, That thing overheated on almost every lesson I had so nowts changed lol.
But Hilda is no longer Hillman-powered, she has a Citroen engine.
@CaseyJonesNumber1 - but it still overheats :-(
@@UPnDOWNas you said though, Hilda also has a 'home made' cooling system...
Sunbeam Stiletto/Hillman Imp Californian (with the rakish rear roofline!).
@@CaseyJonesNumber1 But still an overheating Hot Hillman.
Great little tinkering video Rich, it never rains but pours with cars.
I liked the video. If I may throw in my 2 cents, the engine water pump may not be strong enough to push the fluid to the front radiator. I would also use a vacuum pump on the radiator to suck the air bubbles out when refilling it. I think the engine is not getting enough cold coolant when it calls for it so it overheats. I hope this helps. If not you can tell me to eat lemons and I won't get mad.
I think you are right about the too weak pump. It looked to me like a “free” impeller type, not so much like a closed impeller that has a tight tolerance on the suction side to the housing. Flow is therefor too low.
The logic is sound but it's already been working fine for 2500 miles including track duties so I'd be skeptical - doesn't take much to whack in an extra in-line pump to rule it out though
@@matthewturnock8725 2500 miles is not very far tohugh and things work until they don't work any more. In saying that none of us really have enough data to have an educated opinion. I wouldn't think an auxillary water pump and a swirl pot would be a bad idea.
@@rimmersbryggeri normally I'd agree with you but in this case the pump not being strong enough is just an inherent problem with the design, so I'd expect it to just either work or not from the get go. Unless it's very very marginal and that little bit of wear was just enough to weaken the flow throughput, but that would be pretty unlucky honestly haha
@@matthewturnock8725 Is not a problem with the deisgn, it's a problem with the application. The design is intended for a front mounted engine with very short hoses that is being used in a totally different setting. The heat soak of the imp engine compartment will probably be more severe than it was in the saxo since there is little natural ventilation and no forced ventilation. I'm by no means an expert but my grandpa was a heating system engineer so he taught me a little bit about heat transfer and I can tell you it can be fascinating but also very complex.
Had a '62 Saab 96 with the bullnose bonnet and the original 36 hp engine and it was marginal for travel on highways, so decided to convert to a 46 hp Shrike engine from a '66 long-nose 96. The differences are the older engine has a tiny water pump on the back of the generator and the newer engine has the water pump up front on the head. Also volume pumped is vastly different as the older pump is barely big enough, it would be strained to pump water on a typical 500 cc motorcycle. It's more of a pump assisted thermo-syphon set up.
At any rate with the conversion done, the new engine runs fine but has an overheating issue from having to use the stock radiator, (that sits behind the engine on a shelf, just above where the firewall bends to the rear..) that has two smaller outflow pipes at the bottom, one forward to the water pump and the other rearward to the heater core. Well the fix was to make a Y from the 2 outflows at the radiator bottom, which are one inch roughly exit pipes, into a 1.5 diameter return pipe with a smaller 1" feeder off it, (downstream of the Y..) to the heater core. The heater cores on these cars are really efficient and can substantially heat the interior despite using the already cooled water from the radiator. But the bullnose does have a cold weather spring loaded blind on the bonnet's air intake because Arctic Winters in Northern Sweden, and it needs this when temps are below freezing. Plus you really have to use the exhaust stove to aircleaner hose on any temps below 34 degrees with any humidity. Pretty amazing cars but problems with engine temperature control can be hard to diagnose.
Good luck with your adventure.
Saab 96 - good taste❤
The paint job is superb!
(I am distracted easily!) 😮
It's not amazing up close, though the finish is nice.
Glad you didn't mothball Hilda. On the other hand I'm feeling your pain. Thanks for bring us along anyway. Always enjoy your videos.
Fascinating to watch if it was or not the problem (for those yet to watch). Educational all the same, and some great editing. Onwards and upwards.
had a really crappy week personally, i saw your video earlier and promised it was tonights viewing over dinner. It was totally worth the wait and keeping my promise. project cars are special and youve reminded me of the passion and the thought that goes into them! they arent just a halfords accessory kit, theyre a mechanics dream come to life! thanks Rich! look forward to seeing your next installment
Cheers Shaun, hope the next week is better! There's another Hilda video coming in the next few days, too.
I think! It could be a silted up radiator. If it is a cross flow radiator the sludge (caused by aluminium head) settles at the bottom of the vanes. A bit like a river.
The word 'bugger' comes to mind
I had disappearing coolant but no obvious overheating in my old E34 525i - alloy head on iron block. It had a crack that only became an issue when the head was heated up. Local engine rebuilder found it and supplied a secondhand replacement.
I'm pretty sure one of my fleet has this issue too.
It's had the head off twice now (fine on pressure test and skim both times!) but it's seemingly still boiling coolant.
Again alloy head/ iron block.
Sniff test is fine till the thermostat opens, then it indicates broken.
Very interesting lots of information, nice hair cut by the way
It's good from 20ft
Those engines were renowned for overheating and largely due to a warped block - hence a new cylinder head gasket would not cure it. Biggest issue with that is if you get the block surface milled flat again you then have to machine an equivalent amount off the top of the pistons to avoid any contact with the valves. Back in the day, for an easier life, you could easily find a replacement motor and switch it. Now I bet things are not so simple.
Just put a crate SM motor innit. Job's a goodun.
It doesn't have a Hillman imp engine in it.
"Those engines" being the original Imp engines? Or the Saxo engine?
Well you had your fun
Don't give up Pal, the world needs Hilda on its roads and You know it will be forgiven once sorted. looking forward to you smiling from ear to ear when you fix it.
Had several Hillman Imps including a 998cc, had head gasket problems until I did this, started engine till gasket sizzled then finally torqued to correct settings and never had the problems again. By the way I was a teenage speedster progressed to a Ford Anglia 998cc with a replaced Holbay 1600cc coupled to a 998cc gearbox 0-90 unbelievable fast for 1966.
No the crank cant be 180 deg out if the cam timing pin is in place as its 2 crank revolutions to 1 cam revolution.
Absolutely right, I've no idea why I said that 😆
Cool little car😍
I had a couple of Hillman Imp's and I always had heating problems and numerous head gaskets, also the heaters never worked. I actually worked in a factory making Hillman Imp parts.
Which factory was that?
@@UPnDOWN To tell you the truth I can't remember the name of the factory. I believe it was a Birmingham firm making steering parts, such as steering racks and ball joints. It was operating from one of the old ICI buildings at Low Prudhoe, Northumberland. I was only 16 when I worked there. I later had a few Hillman Imp vans and cars and they all had overheating problems and rubber doughnut problems. In the 60s I had a great many fantastic old cars, including two Isseta bubble cars, which I loved.
My dad had a Hillman Imp in the 60's and had no end of problems including having to change the head gasket and have the head skimmed twice, he got rid of it in 1968 and bought a 3yr old 1200 6V WV Beelte, and said it was the best move he ever made
If you're judging cars based on how tough they are rather than how well they drive, you'd find to hard to argue with him!
Love the videos keep it up even on them those days you keep us on our low days looking up.
Had the same symptoms on a Volkswagen T3 modified to the 1.9 TDI engine we found the standard pump wasn’t powerful enough with all the extra piping it held nearly 10 L and had to fit a secondary water pump in line because of the extra massive increase in coolant. So might be worth fitting if you can a secondary water pump in line she may not just have the pressure to push it to the front and pull it to the back. It may just be just too much for the water pump.
Cheers!
Yea, I tend to agree.The mere fact that it has run fine for 2500 miles,is just luck, on a really marginal system. If the motor had been running at higher revs may have just been enough. The extra water pump would be my suggestion.Easier to do than other options, me reckon.
On Worklights, the sealey ones are good. We've crushed a couple at work and they kept kicking.
My Mrs had a suped up Imp in the 80's .
Her passengers used to burn their legs on the radiator pipes going to the front 😂😅
Looking forward to the C6 diag. Usually something weird if EVERYTHING pops up (harness and gnd in my car)
As a kid growing up, my father had the Stilleto which he acquired from a friend of his who used to do hill climbs with it,
he converted it back to a passenger vehicle but kept the engine mods. Very loud but that was part of its appeal. That used to overheat as well.
Sometimes giving up on problems is a problem itself.... stick with it sort things out and then decide if it stays or goes... i hate not being able to figure out problems.. but help is never really that far away... we just need to ask... .. stay safe 🏴
I remember the Imps were known for head gasket issues due the the alloy heads warping.
Could you add a Schrader valve into the coolant system to artificially pressurise the system, or a brake bleeding nipple and vacuum bleed it?
Not a bad shout, though it does have lots of bleed points already.
My Cayenne needed a coolant replacement and they used a vacuum set up to draw all the air out of the system (and test it for any leakage) then introduced the coolant into the vacuum to avoid any airlocks which is very common on the 4.8 v8 engine. Just a thought .........
If you dont know there is a tool that sucks vacuum in the coolant system and then fills the system. Its good if you know its hard to bleed.
Yeah, I've got a few bits of kit here and used vacuum on the Imp last time I bled it. Problem is it seems to create its own air after I've finished!
Brilliant vid kitch, thanks for sharing 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, I really enjoy all your videos (maybe because I'm a tech/Citro-nut..). I have a suggestion - I've done it myself for testing purpose: try taking the thermostat out completely. This way you may be able find an obstruction by feeling or measuring (infrared cam) the difference in temperature in various parts of the system. Just a thought...
Problem is if you take it out entirely, you screw the flow up in the engine meaning any recorded temps aren't representative of what's actually going on
@@UPnDOWN Sorry about that... it wasn't a problem in my case. Another question: does it happen in any specific circumstances that can be repeated?
It's terrible that point, when you know the odds of your knuckles bleeding has gone up.
Increase the speed of the water pump -the flow goes down whit long pipes/house -maybe a "tighter" pump will help or you have a worn out impeller ( plastic ? )
I wish to try and help, I am liking all your videos, your mantra and respect your resolve, values and ideas - unlike a lot of the replies which seem to miss out the fact that it has worked for 2000 miles, which gives using ODA principles (some cock I had to learn at work, a principle for solving problems) a fixed failure mode event (more ODA speak) this has led to the set of symptoms - simply the water not flowing was a logical conclusion to observe, but i would suggest it simpler to do a cooling system flow check on all the pipes and radiator before pulling the engine any further - can you actually say the front rad and its pipes have not become blocked or restricted? - the front gauge was telling you it was not getting any hot water, even if the head gasket was gone, it would by comparison be passing a tiny amount compared to what the water pump was/should of been giving to the front radiator ? - hope this helps - Andy
Cheers Andy, yes many seem to miss my explanations in the vid of things I've already checked and discounted! I think you're on the right tracks. Well, I know you are, because there's another video coming soon... ;-)
@@UPnDOWN - looking forward too it 😉
Years ago I had a 998 stiletto with front rad and found waterpump didnt push the water around quick enough under hard driving so fitted twin waterpump after had no problem . One to push one to pull . Good luck sorting it, always loved my imp .
I had a weird water pump issue with an MGB. The plastic impeller was cracked and would slip on the shaft when warm. Impeller would spin, but the impeller wasn’t moving coolant.
That's what I mentioned in this video.
Check the oil does it have water in it. I had an imp back in the 70s and that over heated
Hillman Imp FTW
Have a chat with Andy Jones, Shrigley Engineering. He knows a thing or two about Imps.
He does, though probably not so much Imps with Saxo engines in!
i had the same kinda fault with a mini 1.4 diesel everything seemed fine but the heaters were cold all the time temp gauge would go to the middle then 3/4 then back down and it was only after watching an alan howlet video on a ford mondeo diesel doing the same thing when warm they found out it was the water pump impellar hardly moving once the engine got upto running temp.....so i thought ok ive checked everything else on the mini ill change the water pump.......low and behold put the car back together with the NEW water pump added water/antifreeze and within a few mins heaters were getting warm temp gauge came up slowly (used to come up faster) 30-40mins later temp gauge stayed at below normal heaters were boiling hot ........and all because id watched a video of alan howlet on a mondeo taxi doing the same sort of thing...
That was one of the reasons for renewing the water pump, to be honest, though I was hoping it would have been a plastic impeller as those are the most common for that issue.
Did you keep the old coolant? You can run a chemical test for combustion chamber gases but often you can simply smell them - see my Disco 2 V8 for details as I start doing the head gaskets on it this week... Hopefully a liner hasn't slipped!
Incidentally years ago, I had a Lancia Montecarlo - both with the original engine and a 155 BHP Guy Croft unit I fitted during my ownership, I could never get the cooling system to pressurise. It never overheated or lost coolant so I took the opinion to ignore it and it was fine for the 12 years I owned it...
I've still got the Evans stuff but I didn't keep anything else. No liners on this block, thankfully.
Cooling systems only pressurise as a result of the coolant getting near the limit of its capacity. If it didn't pressurise, it'd be more likely to boil over, and if it didn't do that either, it was probably just running too cool (but for 12 years happy motoring, is it really a problem?!)
Did you think about the thermostat, it could be sticking, test it, even if it is new it can still be faulty, take the rear cross member off it's a doddle 3 bolts and one nut on each side you've moved the battery and battery box so they don't get in the way
It's a new thermostat, and the original behaved exactly the same. Rear crossmember is more difficult on this car due to all the extra bracing.
I watch this space!
I think your issue *could* be connected to the way you rearranged the routing of the heater system. If i remember correctly, you basically now have one loop going from the engine to the radiator, and one going to the heater inside the car, both directly from the engine - correct? So if we assume that the water has less resistance going through the heater than through the radiator, you would not get much flow going through the radiator - could there be crud partially blocking the radiator? Could the waterless cooling have loosened up crap inside the engineblock over time and transported it to the radiator... something like that? Could make sense...
Another theory could be if you get enough flow overall, after the re-routing of the heatersystem. Could there be a lot of air trapped in your heater circuit, because there isn't enough flow to push it though that part of the system, and he air would keep getting to the radiator circuit over time? Basically the opposite version of the theory that the radiator is partially blocked... path of least resistance, and all that jazz. This could explain why you're not getting a very hot heater, and maybe the problems started after you cranked the heater on (if it is turned on by opening a valve in the circuit).
Generally i'm not sure that the setup you made is optimal. I really think you would need an electric waterpump for the heater loop.
I would personally look into the coolingsystem before pulling the head - check if the flow though the radiator circuit is free, and i would try blocking off the heater circuit entirely. Putting the timing belt back on and refitting the enginemount, pully and crap back on temporarily is not that much extra work, compared to taking the engine out as it sits now... waterpump won't have to come out again right. Even if you do have a blown headgasket, i still think its connected to that re-routing of the heater circuit.
Incorrect timing (including a problem with vacuum advance or centrifugal advance mechanisms) can cause overheating. It might be something as simple as a bit of grit in the axle of an advance weight.
It's distributorless. Timing's controlled by the ECU.
Was the heater valve open when you bled it?
Yes.
Watched this twice now.. Erm....before you check the head... just loosen the jubilee clips to the in/out pipes to the rad and see if it comes out under pressure..... with the engine running obviously... after that its head mate. Very best of luck. .
Retrospect is wonderful....should have probably sniff tested it before stripping down if you were thinking the head gasket had popped.
I never stripped it down?
@@UPnDOWN aye, head definitely not stripped yet but you would have needed it running to sniff test...
Perhaps one needs coolant hoses with a bigger bore. As engine at back and radiator at front then that is a long run and the longer the pipe the greater the resistance to flow.
Too big and the flow will also slow down.
I know comments don't always help but has the standard TU water pump got enough capacity to pump coolant around a much bigger system than a Saxo, just a thought, maybe fit an additional electric pump if possible ??
It did for 2500miles.
@@UPnDOWN oh right yes you did say mate sorry, perhaps a sniff test next then ?
So, to answer the question: I don't know. Sorry that isn't much help, but I've never fitted a Saxo engine into a Hillman Imp. Maybe someone else has and they will be more helpful than me.
(At least you've been paying attention and haven't commented something about the 875cc Imp engine being a kettle, despite the fact this car doesn't have one...!)
There's only one other than I know of (it was an AX engine, not Saxo), but I'm not sure it ever ran.
There's kits for checking the coolant for hydrocarbons
I have a block tester that looks for exhaust gasses in the header tank ?? Iim sure you must have one ?
I don't, funnily enough! But I can borrow one if needs be.
Having owned one of these first time round I had to change the head gasket all too often.
Was very common on the original engine
Your knocking these old videos out fella 👍👍👍 I would go Chinese shit thermostat ? Reading so many people having problems with poor quality stuff so going down water pump was a good move but just check that thermostat . And now I will watch part two cars of hell only worry is like jaws as I always thought jaws 2 was not as good but will part 3 be in 3D ? Now there’s something HubCap has not done 😂😂😂👍👍👍
Thermostat is working fine, no idea where it's made.
Did you test the coolant for combustion gases?
Was going to say that.
Yep I was shouting blue green gas test FIRST at the video. 😂
No, because the original stuff was Evans (and I don't know if the testers would work properly on that?) And since then it's just had loads of water chucked through it, almost on a loop.
😎😎😎😎👍👍👍👍
Did you nick that bonnet stay from Sooty?
Izzy wizzy, let's get busy!
Is the heater matrix leaking and letting in air ? I know there is normally a smell and moisture in the cabin….
If the radiator is from an MGF it is probably full of Stop Leak from the inevitable K Series head gasket failure it will have had… 😊
Cooling system doesn't lose pressure, so I wouldn't have though so (though stranger things have happened)
Rad from an MGF, yes, but it was a brand new rad!
I like your haircut.
☮
You could almost split the channel's content into seasons based on the status of Rich's luxurious locks.
If you squint it's mint
I am going to go against everyone else's theory. I think your thermostat is wide open and flowing the coolant around the system too quickly for it to cool the engine. I have seen in our speedway cars and our drag cars. On our drag cars we ground the impellers down so they weren't as efficient at the high revs we were operating at.
Interesting theory, but remember this is a new thermostat, and it's behaving exactly like the old thermostat.
Rich when you put it back together again why not find a vacuum cooling system filling tool ?..
That will probably be something I look into in the future.
I think Jorge is right, you have a flow issue and need a pump that creates more pressure to overcome that longer systems resistance.
But it's been fine for 2500miles?
@@UPnDOWN I go with you. 2.500 miles should be enough to prove that the system works. Check the pipes and the cooler for free passage.
@@UPnDOWN Dude. Loose the "its been fine for 2500 miles" answer.The system is marginal, at best.& youve been lucky, up till now.I believe the water pump is not strong enough to pump it around the extra distance.Possibly it MIGHT work if the pump was spinning faster, ie put it back to gether,as is, & try running it at higher fevs.
Higher rpm’s on the pump could indeed just erase your cooling issue. You could be operating on the very edge of managing flow against resistance. The smallest air pocket will hinder flow as well. My ‘66 Caprice’s overheating problem turned out to be a freezeplug that had been left in the block. It was floating around till it decided to settle near one of the blocks waterpump exits…not to scare you or anything😉
Keep at it and try a smaller pulley on the pump if available.👍
Back flush it mate. May have to swap the radiator if the silt is solid in the bottom. Good luck.
On the to-do list. Makes no sense as only 2500miles have passed, and with waterless. But, there could be crud from all the metalwork I've been doing...
good decision on not putting the car in the corner and forget about it.. those are the cars that end up being featured on Jonny Smiths barn finds videos... 20 years after it is too late to save them
Maybe a electric water pump for better circulation?
Possible might not be getting a strong circulation?
Been fine for 2500miles though?
2:13 I nodded like a fool!
Front radiator?
Yes, something I fitted. Normally they're in the back with the engine on Imps.
Hilda still playing silly buggers with you huh, one day you'll get it to a car show. Even if it takes replacing half the engine parts to do so. Also, out of interest did the S max survive the ramp oil incident?
The S-Max...oh yes, that one.
Wait for the next video on that...
@@UPnDOWN Uh oh 😬
So ,what about the pump being ok BUT the pump seals being goosed. Not leaking out but air in.
On a brand new pump?
@@UPnDOWN thought 2 year old . Some seal material need used enough to stay soft . And is it ok with non water coolant? My K series beemer had same issue .
I think if you remove the thermostat on these engines the water does not flow correctly ... but i could be remembering things badly
That's correct.
I was hoping for the water pump and an easy(ish) fix.
Same!
'It does not mention Hilman Imp, so it's obviously wrong!' *CZcams takes this as a cue to cut to a Euro car parts ad* 😂
No way 😆
@UPnDOWN Yep, timing was perfect!
Re evans. Wouldn't you rather it boiled over and warned you it was too hot? What you've been doing is running it hot with evans and heatsoaking the engine. I hate Evans, it's terrible stuff. It's snake oil.just cos it boils at a higher temperature , why is that a good thing?
Agreed. That's why no manufacturer in the world uses it OEM. I wonder why all the billions of £ in engineering research still doesn't come to the conclusion that Evans cools better. Nothing cools better than 50/50. I am an automotive engineer by profession.
@@corvair140 Boiling point of 70% Prestone coolant/30% water is the highest boiling point available in the possible percentage range mix of engine cooling polyethylene glycol juices. Heat exchange is better, liquid coolant to outside air, then the comparative less cooling system liquid with extra steam bubbles, to air. What am I missing? I could write a mistake-ridden book.
@@corvair140 You are spot on the only thing I know has a higher specific heat capacity than water is ammonia but you wouldn't want to run that because it is corrosive and you wouldn't want to spring a leek. Evans is a scam.
@paulleggett9735 - Not really, because if it boils over it may have already damaged something. The gauge is there to warn me it's too hot. Boiling over is a result of something being broken, not a warning sign to switch the engine off.
There are plenty of reasons why Evans being able to boil at a higher temp is a good thing. It doesn't mean your car should run that hot, it just means the coolant will keep working if you have a problem, rather than turning to gas and trying to escape.
@corvair140 - Evans doesn't cool better, they've never claimed it does. Anybody who does, is misguided. There are plenty of pros to it, but one of the cons is that it's less efficient than water at soaking up heat.
Try bleeding the heater !
I'd love to accept it mate, but most of it doesn't really apply here!
What engine does hilda have?.
Maybe you watched with the sound off? Try watching again with the sound on and you will know the answer to the question you asked.
@@archie2archie firstly I am new to this car and I have no idea what engine it has, secondly... why can't you just be civil and tell me what engine it has, thirdly.. people like you don't get very far in life with your kind of attitude.
Saxo VTR 1600cc. There's a whole playlist for Hilda videos and the first vids explain the conversion in detail.
@@adamweston4152 I am also new to this car,this is the only video on the channel I have watched. Again to know the answer to the question you posted all you have to do is watch again with sound on. The guy makes it very clear that the engine is not original,and says exactly what engine it is.
Off topic again. Turns out I managed to order 2 blinkin accumulators, not suspension spheres. I'm starting to hate my cars more than they hate me.
Evans is a terrible coolant, compare the specific heat capacity of water vs glycol.
It's not as good at heat transfer as water, but that doesn't mean it's a terrible coolant.
I have 3 Urals, I get it... Have a Harley and Triumph to maintain sanity...
Thought that said 'urinals' for a minute!
Why not CO2 test?
I don't have the equipment, though I can borrow one. They're not always accurate though, especially when the coolant keeps being dropped.
@@UPnDOWN also I think that the usually reliable french engine has been infested with the british suroundings :) So a head gasket leak is not a surprise :)
Hahaha!
Is that an original I’m engine ?
Very much not!
The reason it overheats is, it's a Hillman Imp.
Wow, nobody's said that yet...!
Frustrating - but at least the hair looks good!
😆
I know you love her, but just accept this piece of advice from an old, retired mechanic? Imps are kettles... shaped like a car. Fill them with water and they WILL boil, and strand you on the side of the road. Don't use Barrs Leaks, use PG Tips... at least you'll get a nice cup of tea while you wait to be rescued. The engines are little miracles... fitted by a team of morons to an appalling mashup of a design. A car so dreadfully designed that they even had to jack up the front end as they started rolling off the production line because the headlights were too low to be legal. I mean, FFS, BASIC stuff was ignored! Treat it as a clean sheet. EVERYTHING will need modifying to get a decent set of wheels at the end of it. Do the maths and work out the water flow, the heat exchange required, and the air-lock points en route. Do you need a header-tank on the outlet from the engine... or on the return? First principles. They were ignored by Rootes, so it's up to you. The reason these cars never flourished was because they were dreadfully unreliable by comparison to the competition. I was alive and working around those times, and remember it well.
C'mon, get to the roote of the question, Sir! Oh...you did. Hmph. Forget I was here.
I'd love to accept the advice, but I'm not sure where to start!
Electric water pump
It doesn't have one.
@@UPnDOWN maybe it might help if you added one. The standard pump might struggle pushing the extra coolant to the front of the car.
@@UPnDOWN Thats why it needs one.
Cars are pain.
I can see what your problem is - you have removed the jewel of an engine that should have been in it, and have shoehorned a boat anchor in for some daft reason. 😢 My money is on the poorly designed / thought out cooling system...
Jesus christ! You know you've made it when you've armchair critics moaning that the Imp is a crap car and that the engine's a kettle (despite the fact it doesn't have an Imp engine in it) and now I've got the opposite with people moaning that the Imp engine was amazing and that and I've designed the cooling system poorly (despite never having seen it!)
Make your minds up!