HOW TO INSTALL A CEDAR FENCE!! (part 2)
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- buettsfence.com
In this tutorial we show you how to build a cedar privacy fence. In part 1 we gave tips on how to set the post, here we are installing the pickets.
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Did you gap the pickets?
Thank you great video to learn and just add to general knowledge of fence construction.
Getting ready to build mine. Thanks for the nice tips. Didn't have a metal gate in mind but that is a good idea.
Great pair of how to vids, they were super helpful!
Love your video 👊👊 👊... Very helpful thank You
Word is on the street the fence is still standing 10 years later
Thank you for sharing this video and for the extra tips.
You may consider other types of posts. The red treated posts are ground contact only Read the little label on the end of the posts
My neighbor recommended against using a top rail on a cedar fence - said that water would pool along the top and the fence would sag. She said it's better to have the end grain exposed (nothing on top of the vertical fence boards) vs edge grain. Is this true? It seems counter-intutive to me since end grain has the structure to suck in water but I don't really know! Please advise. I like the look of a top rail topping the fence but not at expense of durability. Thanks!
That's an automatic feed screw gun like they have for drywall
Grasias amigo
Great install! What size/type material was used for steel gate?
Nice Job! Your screw gun is excellent! What make is it? I use a Senco deck screw gun, but it does not work as fast and reliably as yours. I always use 1-1/2' galv. square tube 3 rail frames for my gates and 3" galv. square gate posts. I also treat the posts with a fungicide and insecticide as the termites here are prone to eat the center out of P.T. posts. AZ Fence Contractor
I see you chose to use galvanized steel gate posts instead of wood. Why did you go with those over the wood at the posts only?
+Samson Rollins
Since the posts are submerged in the ground, they are subject to more moisture, fungal activity and insect traffic. So, they need to be more resilient than the pickets, which are above-ground.
It's the same reason pressure-treated posts are used instead of regular 4x4s. Steel posts are said to last even longer than treated lumber.
But that's utter bollocks as the posts should be concreted in which stops water from getting anywhere near.
I can't speak to that from experience, but that makes sense that the concrete prevents water penetration.
Daniel Wilson wood shrinks in time. Water penetrates, scd40 galvanized Post are strong, won't warp or snap under pressure and have proven to hold a gate longer and more square through time. This company has was established in 1943. They have a ton of experience. Regardless what others will say, they really do have a great reputation for quality.
why are you cutting it with a Sawzall did you not have a circular saw?
Thanks...Great video
How much does it cost for supplies??? as in fence and the posts
so whats your thoughts on board spacing - it appears you butt each board against each other with no space in-between , will this cause a problem with warping? my boards are or have been rained on prior to purchasing- I hear different stories, some say to and others not,
to have them next to each other you got to put support by adding a top part of the pickets so they can be more stabled.
More about installing a gate than a fence
What size screws did you use in the pickets. I know you said you used 3"' in the 2x4's .
Just curious. How much would this cost to be done professionally?
Good job 👍
What screw guns do you guys use?
Why would you have the outside facing in? You built the fence inside out
They wanted it to look nice from their side and they don't have naughty neighbours to climb on.
I would love to have the "good side" facing in, but my local building codes require that side to face out. You spend all that money putting up a fence only to have your neighbors get the better side.
add pickets to both sides
My opinion only, I would like to have pickets which have the gaps between them on both sides, it calls the shadow box. In Florida, there are some hurricanes and high wind per year, so the wind goes through spaces and would not knock off the fence easily. But, there are more works to be done by clear all the grassroots along the bottom of the fence.
Nice Video... Thanks.
Is that a tennis ball setting the fence?
Is it more common to build the fence with the "pretty" side facing in? I'm planning on building a fence at my house but I'm undecided about that.
yes, pretty side facing in. Whoever pays the most of the Neighbors usually get that portion.
Per code, we have to have the finished side facing out. Check your friendly neighborhood building code first.
You mention screwing in slats, but are in fact using a nail gun correct? Is there some huge fallacy to using a nail gun?
It's a screw gun
Tony Clark nails suck.
Where is your diagonal support for the gate? You said if your gate ever sags you can adjust it. How about just build a gate that wont sag in the first place.
Slade The Original the gate won't sag as it has a fully welded steel frame. The post will eventually sag which is why adjustable J bolts are used with their gates. That is a very nice gate system.
This time I will use Woodglut plans for this.
didnt notice slow motion at first. i was like wtf these guys are so fast
Seems like a very awkward way of doing it, and I feel it looks very messy too. In the UK we have a much nicer style using morticed posts and arris rails with feather edge closeboard and gravelboards at the base. Looks much neater. I guess this person had a limited budget?
I had to look up that style. I can tell you that would probably cost at least four times as much as the standard cedar fence. And cedar holds up well and doesn't warp like the really cheap pine does. I saved money by putting in a pine fence with wooden posts. At least half the posts are badly warped. I've lucked out and got away with 10 years. As far as fancy looks, eh, it's just a fence. It serves it's purpose, keeping the dogs in. If it wasn't for dogs, in a neighborhood, I probably wouldn't have a fence at all. And the next fence I build I wouldn't use wooden posts at all. I will use metal posts only. That way you have 100% reliable and strong posts.
Woodglut has very good designs and plans.
Is no one else concerned that they're using galvanized screws with cedar? In 2 years time that fence with look like shit because of the staining from those screws. Stainless is the only way to go with cedar wood...
I really like the Woodprix plans.
You're not even going to box those ugly poles. Cmon man!
You can learn more about it on woodprix website I think.
I have a very special secret to tell you about this type of fence. Touch it and say the word "Arcade", while you touch it. You'll have good luck and/or something really awesome will happen that day! I'm not kidding! It works for me every time! But you have to believe, or it won't work.
What size are your fence boards?
This looks like the most inefficient and dangerous way to build a simple fence I have ever seen.
Make it yourself thanks to woodprix plans. I think it's the best way to learn how to build it in the cheapest way.
I know you can get solutions for that on woodprix website.
remember kids to use the right tools unlike these guys
Did I see a chain saw being used to cut the tops of the post?
W Morris Yea that's normal
What they should be doing is digging the post holes to the correct depth lol. By cutting the tops they are removing some of the treated timber (assuming it is treated) and shortening the lifespan, especially if the posts aren't angled
That's why you have to retreat the ends after you cut them
It's so much easier to dig out another couple of inches of dirt though, saves worrying about how crap the post tops look if you can't cut straight or if your saw is blunt. Doing things like cutting the posts at the top or leaving old posts cut off at ground level (as in the video) are signs of poor workmanship. A little bit more effort makes a world of difference when it comes to the finished product.
You can learn more about it on WoodPrix webpage.
You guys build a fence all wrong. Why would you use a galvanized screw. Use a ring shanked galvanized nail. Also pressure treated 2x4's are terrible. A metal framed gate? Adjust the sag all you want it will never go away. I could build circles around all you guys. You use a string line to picket. Ill build a guide and picket a whole bunk by the time you lay it out. Please post videos of an accurate fence build with an air gun.
Danielle Crouch Why don't you post your own video showing us how it should be done?
I have to agree with you. Your build is your build, I say. Questions are ok to ask of you, I am sure.., but negatively complaining isn't cool. If Danielle Crouch is such a great fence builder...why is she on here looking at how to build yours? and also, why doesn't she use that negative energy to make a video of how she would and does do it. There is always more than one way to do anything. I've seen various styles of construction, and often they have to do with either local building codes, owner preferences, or local weather condition differences. I would love to see her ideas and work....in a positive way, not in a condescending way like she did to your work.
@Danielle Johnson, I would not judge this guy's job. For example, I do not like my son who judged my job for the fence that I was working on because he did not help me at all. I used Metal Frame (PostMaster) and screws on the pickets because I did not want to buy an air gun. Also, I build my fence as a hobby. I used the pressure treated 2x3 as the rails. As long as you like it, period.