Maybe I could have made my comment more clear last week. Use the paper based tape in one direction, then the Packing tape over that in a perpendicular direction. This helps reduce sags and produces a clean release surface.
@RISKY ADVERTISING HIGH PROFIT BEACH TRAVELS For me, my body is also fiberglass so I joined the two with fiberglass for a seamless transition. Check out the video. czcams.com/video/b5V7C77fb_4/video.html If your body is steel, yes you would need to fasten the fender to the body with fasteners
You are 'kinda' building this car. I counted 72 times you kinda did something. As a collector I enjoyed some compound kindas. Like the Windex kinda enables you to kinda wipe it off. Well done!
Use Panel Bond to adhere the fenders to the car and then use a sort of putty to blend the panel onto the original body and then sand it all smooth. The fenders do look great though and even. I was worried they would look a little off from one another due to the different ways you went about forming them on either side. I also like the wider stand the car has in the rear end now. Not that it was bad before but it looks really good now. A mark improvement for sure. Well done.
i guess Im asking randomly but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I love any tips you can offer me
@Finnley Kenneth i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process now. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Loving the wider back end, now all you need is a rear diffuser to complete the look. Awesome Job, I'm getting a lot of ideas from you for when I finally start my build. learning a lot too =)
To say I’m impressed with how the fenders turned out is an understatement. Great job, it looks better than the original look and like it should’ve been that way to begin with.
"Klico" pliers and it will hold it together and the holes will go away with the final glass work. You can get a kit from Summit, and extra klicos. The are like pop rivets, that you can take in and out a million times. Been watching for hours.👍
I did something similar. I laid the tape on just like you, then put one thin coat of fiberglass and resin on the tape, it helps protect the blue tape from sagging. Once it dries you can go back to the putty method. I actually then used thick polyester primer right on the putty, it worked way better than sanding hardened bondo. I was suprised the primer stuck to the the putty.
Impressive , definitely picking up on speed and end result. For further work and viewers, after finishing plaster shaping, seal this with a very light coat of spray paint (primer), so it doesn't wet / soak the plaster, then a couple of quick coats over this. This will give an even better finish, which as you have found translates to fiberglass finish, but also will prevent issue of plaster sticking to back of new panel. As far as shaping plaster and later finished fiberglass panel, either make or get a long panel sander, makes achieving flowing panel lines much easier. Great work, great results, seriously impressed
I love the effort on the back panel over fenders, But you should go with in off the market over fender and mold it to the body using fiberglass. It will save you a lot of time money and effort. Keep up the amazing work love watching your channel.
In Canada, we have drywall mud (powder form) that comes in 3 different drying (curing) rates. Called sheetrock 20, 45, and 90 It cures in that time roughly. Never use that pre mixed stuff. Only use it for fine pin holes in a nice wall, that's been mudded already. Also, use tape or mud as the form like you did, then the drywall mud (use the powder form), then once the mud is done, you must use packing tape to cover the mud. Then fiberglass over the clear taped mud. Fiberglass does not stick to packing tape. Also, your new panel fits pretty tight tight with the car, so just gluing it on with panel adhesive might work. I had to glue and screw on a new fiberglass rear bumper I ordered for my 81 Camaro. The contact patch mating against the car was way less than ideal to just glue it on, it would have broken off. What I did was put clear tape all around where the new bumper would touch the steel car. Then, I predrilled 4 riv-nuts per side, and loosely bolted it on to where it had to go. Then I scuffed up the new fiberglass bumper, mixed up this stuff called "kitty hair", it looks a applied like bondo, comes in gallon size tubs, but it is actually thick resin mixed with fiberglass strands. I added the hardener, plopped a bunch of it all around the flange till it ooozed out, and then bolted on the bumper loosely, back to where it had to go. Then I went under the car, and jammed more kitty hair into the void in between the bumper and car. Let it harden, then take it off and dress it up. Add panel adhesive and bolted it on nicely. (the glue had more surface contact now). Then blended it all out with fiberglass 😊
the tape and plaster idea might work if you put extra tape over it in a crosshatch since the tape will move some and the plaster is more rigit , it might crumble when you apply pressure to it while sanding another "cheap"idea you might be able to try is paper machee (newspaperstrips soaker in wallpaper glue , once dried it gets pretty hard and you can sand it , allso can fill deep parts by crumpling up pieces of put pieces that are folder a few times and the lay more strips over it , does schrink some i believe
That 2nd fender came out great. The side skirt detail adds a nice touch. I have watched quite a few people attempt these creations. You have had the best planning and outcome from what I have seen so far. Would it not be easier to make a mold of the fender you prefer most? That way you know they match and you can always recreate a 3rd in case something bad happens.
@@sayonsok2230 LOL! That is probably the hardest part. I purchase a profile tool that you can lock in the profile and then try to match it on the other side.
Whenever your taking the joint compound off, if you use a grinder to make vertical and horizontal lines, and then use the back of a hammer at a angle it knocks it right off
❤️ I forgot to mention on your other video once you do one side you can actually take your fender and have it 3D scanned and flipped for a matching side
An interesting method. I use the strip method when I do flares also except I use steel. I've tried and tried but I just can't seem to make an English wheel do what I need it to do so I just use strips of metal welded together with a lot of dollying and grinding.
Hey man side note when you're sanding that drywall mud you probably want to use the same respirator you're using for your fiberglass or at least a standard n95 mask construction style. you really don't want drywall dust in your lungs essentially it just turns back into concrete when wet
If you soak Cheesecloth with the plaster, then lay it on the tape, it will support the structure. It's the same way casts are made for broken arms, legs etc.
Well that was definitely interesting making your mold out of wall compound. Well you could have used plaster of Paris drying is alot faster. And wheel gap positions adjustable with suspension if you have that kind of kit .. well good luck
It looks great, has given me more confidence about doing it myself (if I stop putting it off and actually get to it that is) but as you said it might just be the angle you were looking at it from but the back right side of the arch did seem a little less too much taken off but as you also stated it was a little thinner so it could have just been the angle... looks really good though.
Looks great. If you do this kind of project again you might try florist foam. Easy to carve and holds up to the glass resin. At least it worked for me.
Cole, I think you qualify for the longest comment. 👍 Thanks for all the detailed info about wrap vs. paint! It is great to hear from another builder all the inside details! Thanks again for taking the time to comment!
He (wjp004 Redline Racing) basically uses mixed polyurethane foam and shapes it with knives, files, wires etc. Then skim it with dry mix joint compound. Paint it for sealing and final shaping with regular bondo. Paint it and polish. Wax and mold release. Then make your mold.
It's been a while since I saw your progress, your had just a few dozen subs when I started watching you... Great job! I love your work! Instead of mounting those new fenders and-is, it might be best to use them as molds. The *inside* of those fenders are the perfect shape, not the outside. And that way, you can control the thickness of the finished fenders, and you can lay support materials into the fenders, and the finish would be smoother. Just a suggestion... Keep up the great work!
Hey Brian, thanks for the suggestion! When I started these I was thinking that they would be the final fenders. But several have suggested to use as molds. I may have to rethink my strategy.
Go to the florist shop and get the green foam they use. glue it in strips with a small amount of hot glue. you can put more glue between the foam blocks than on the body Build up the foam then you can shape it with sand paper and cheese grater from body supply Use cheap bondo to coat the foam and achieve final shape Primer and sand to smooth finish Wax mold release pva gel coat fiberglass Now you have a mold for future replacement parts Reverse the fiberglass process for you parts
It is much easier to work with fleece. First layer with masking tape is smart to get the shape. And next layer should be fleece with resin with slow hardener. Cut it out roughly. Soak it and roll out allmost all resin before applying ot on the car . It is strechable and easy to work with like a wrap . Lay it down on the car and roll it out. Let it dry, sand it and continue with stranded fibre glass.
@@ElectricSuperCar Where you located? I built Fast EVs as well! My whole life is EV stuff now. And the new CRX build is going to be insane! Always great to see others involved in the new world of hot rodding!
If you use drywall, get 20 min. It hardens faster and allows for more coats. There is a plus and negative to it. Negative is you have to mix youself in batches. Plus is you can make it thick or thin as you need.
Drywall cleans up with water. Next time hose it down and use a wet sponge to get particles. You also can smooth the dry wall with a damp sponge instead of sanding. Enjoyed the video and like this method you worked out
I might not be looking in the right place, but you mentioned you were going to reinforce the new fenders. I see in the wrap up video a quick segment on how to attached them, but I'm not seeing a full video of that process.
For someone trying this now try using Foil tape, make a template of the shape transfer that to fiberglass, then wet the fiberglass set it in place and roll it smooth.
Finally have been able to get through all your video's :) if you need help figuring out the lights in that drive selector it's pretty simple i would be Willing to help/ program.
@@ElectricSuperCar not a problem at all. For me it's super easy so being able to teach you something is my pleasure. You might even be able to use it in for instance your tail lights, make some Running indicators like the modern high end cars have. Or for instance to make your dash since you can interface gas car gauges with it.
Hey, the easiest way to laminate the panels oto yoour car is rough up the panel below with a course flap wheel on your grinder then use resin and fiberglass to bond the two together. so after a half an hour the are bonded together . I hope that this helps you. 3M also makes a panel bond but, its expensive. With a fiberglass body its just that easy. Hope it goes well for you
Ah ha I've been doing exact same method experiments. I did package tape. Then fiber glass cloth one layer. Now you have a stable enough surface. If you use Epoxy instead of polyester resin. You can buy a gallon for 99$. Online. It's 20% tougher. So this one layer is cost effective to make a good surface once dey you can sand prime and body fill if need be for a buck. The plaster compound works great as Bondo but it need support it is not fiber glass and resin. Drying time, cracking when thick can't move it too fragile.my method using package tape, then Cloth ( not mat = to lumpy) and polyester resin or cheap two part table top epoxy makes faster ,work a hella less SANDING and a strong enough movable part.
I just came up with a idea watching the part with the tape. What if u seal it first before fiberglass. Maybe coupe light coats of primer? Oh and how about using electrical tape instead of paper base tape? I'm getting interested in doing the same stuff...making wide body kit. So I'm checking out some videos. Got any tips I'd appreciate it. Also I want to wrap my car too.
Awesome work again!!!! Front wheel arches look spot on!!! The rear arches and fibreglass work looks brilliant man. I wasnt sure the drywall would work at first but you've taught me a lesson there and the clean up was much less. I'm so looking forward to this being finished and your grin when driving. Am I allowed to ask about the finish paint?
@@ElectricSuperCar I suppose theres alot of options available, paint, wrap, dip etc. I dont know... always loved blue myself, my Tvr is red and daily car is storm white (pearl) I'm sure no matter what, it'll look brilliant finished.
@@ElectricSuperCar I don't have a particular product, I had made some fiberglass brake ducts a few years ago. I started with house construction large sheets of dense foam. I got large pieces, like 4ft x 2ft by 2 or 4 inches thick from lowes/home depot (it was green in color if that matters). It's really tight cell, so you can cut with a knife, you can use an oscillating tool, sandpaper (like 80 grit) or a wood-planing handheld tool. You can make really smooth surfaces and exacting corners. I glued 2 sheets together with gorilla glue or spray glue, to make it double thick, then sculpted it. It is very messy b/c the foam dust goes everywhere, that's the worst part, so lots of vacuuming and wear a particle mask so not to breathe it in. But it's super light, and easier than clay. Obvi it's got its own structural stiffness, so it doesn't sag like tape. Then you can fiberglass right on top of it. For my ducts, I dissolved the foam from the inside, my mentor said use gasoline, but that's awfully smelly, there might be other chemicals to eat it away, if you needed to. If I was making your fenders, I would not even worry about removing the foam, it hardly adds much weight and helps with panel stiffness. Professional car designers make models from foam like this. I think the current process is that a rough shape of the car is made with huge foam blocks, then carved, then they still lay soft clay to form it. Of course don't use clay for your car, just saying that's how concept car designs start out life.
Shop for composite materials and supplies at www.fibreglast.com
Maybe I could have made my comment more clear last week. Use the paper based tape in one direction, then the Packing tape over that in a perpendicular direction. This helps reduce sags and produces a clean release surface.
Awesome tip, sounds like it would work great
Paper plastic paper plastic paper then fiberglass layer that stuff but bro bros right that how I did back when I was a teenager for my eagle talon
SHOW US HOW!
I like your front wheel gap/offset. I think you nailed it!
Thanks Friend!
@RISKY ADVERTISING HIGH PROFIT BEACH TRAVELS I used wax. Also, if any drywall compund does stick, you can rinse it off with water
@RISKY ADVERTISING HIGH PROFIT BEACH TRAVELS For me, my body is also fiberglass so I joined the two with fiberglass for a seamless transition. Check out the video.
czcams.com/video/b5V7C77fb_4/video.html
If your body is steel, yes you would need to fasten the fender to the body with fasteners
You are 'kinda' building this car. I counted 72 times you kinda did something. As a collector I enjoyed some compound kindas. Like the Windex kinda enables you to kinda wipe it off. Well done!
Use Panel Bond to adhere the fenders to the car and then use a sort of putty to blend the panel onto the original body and then sand it all smooth.
The fenders do look great though and even. I was worried they would look a little off from one another due to the different ways you went about forming them on either side. I also like the wider stand the car has in the rear end now. Not that it was bad before but it looks really good now. A mark improvement for sure. Well done.
Thanks Michael!
i guess Im asking randomly but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the password. I love any tips you can offer me
@Dominik Alvin instablaster :)
@Finnley Kenneth i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Finnley Kenneth It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
Ooohhh looks good so far!!!
Great job
Most dry wall is water soluble probably could just wash off what doesnt chip off with hose.
Such good advice! Thanks!
Loving the wider back end, now all you need is a rear diffuser to complete the look.
Awesome Job, I'm getting a lot of ideas from you for when I finally start my build. learning a lot too =)
Thanks Sam!
By far the easiest method I have seen.
Thanks! Make sure to check out the final product czcams.com/video/_xd8YgW1nM0/video.html
As far as latching the hood.....use a product called ....MINI QUICK LATCH....easy to install, looks clean, and very strong fastener
I will have to look into it. Thanks for the suggestion!
The one he got is the same type that’s on semi trucks
To say I’m impressed with how the fenders turned out is an understatement. Great job, it looks better than the original look and like it should’ve been that way to begin with.
Thanks Friend!
"Klico" pliers and it will hold it together and the holes will go away with the final glass work.
You can get a kit from Summit, and extra klicos.
The are like pop rivets, that you can take in and out a million times.
Been watching for hours.👍
Great advice, thanks!
I did something similar. I laid the tape on just like you, then put one thin coat of fiberglass and resin on the tape, it helps protect the blue tape from sagging. Once it dries you can go back to the putty method. I actually then used thick polyester primer right on the putty, it worked way better than sanding hardened bondo. I was suprised the primer stuck to the the putty.
Cool 😎
Your channel is very informative and interesting. I always enjoy watching it. I can't wait to see your car finished.
Glad you enjoy it!
Impressive , definitely picking up on speed and end result. For further work and viewers, after finishing plaster shaping, seal this with a very light coat of spray paint (primer), so it doesn't wet / soak the plaster, then a couple of quick coats over this. This will give an even better finish, which as you have found translates to fiberglass finish, but also will prevent issue of plaster sticking to back of new panel. As far as shaping plaster and later finished fiberglass panel, either make or get a long panel sander, makes achieving flowing panel lines much easier. Great work, great results, seriously impressed
Thanks David! Learning as I go from great viewers like you!
I love the effort on the back panel over fenders, But you should go with in off the market over fender and mold it to the body using fiberglass. It will save you a lot of time money and effort. Keep up the amazing work love watching your channel.
Love these still vs 350z and other’s and very surprised automotive talents haven’t figured this all the way out as well.
Channel WJP004 has a lifetime of resin composites experience. He has the most efficient creation methods I've ever seen.
Thanks! I will check it out!
Cutting And sanding fiberglass without gloves And a Tshirt, respect to You My brother
LOL!! Thanks!
-signed (your itchy friend) ElectricSupercar
looking very good and even between the two sides.
How’d you get both sides to match? Thanks
I used the same form and pretty much used the same method
@@ElectricSuperCar came out great your on the right track. How many hours are you working on this a week?
@@dave5833 I don't know. Maybe 10-15 hours
The more body that extends to cover the tires, the more oem it looks; ie, you did a great job of going beyond flares at the openings.
Thanks for the comment!
Maybe if you use the painters tape then go over it with aluminum tape
This car is sick! The power to weight ratio is crazy 🤟🏻🤟🏻
Thanks Friend!
In Canada, we have drywall mud (powder form) that comes in 3 different drying (curing) rates.
Called sheetrock 20, 45, and 90
It cures in that time roughly. Never use that pre mixed stuff. Only use it for fine pin holes in a nice wall, that's been mudded already.
Also, use tape or mud as the form like you did, then the drywall mud (use the powder form), then once the mud is done, you must use packing tape to cover the mud. Then fiberglass over the clear taped mud.
Fiberglass does not stick to packing tape.
Also, your new panel fits pretty tight tight with the car, so just gluing it on with panel adhesive might work. I had to glue and screw on a new fiberglass rear bumper I ordered for my 81 Camaro. The contact patch mating against the car was way less than ideal to just glue it on, it would have broken off. What I did was put clear tape all around where the new bumper would touch the steel car. Then, I predrilled 4 riv-nuts per side, and loosely bolted it on to where it had to go. Then I scuffed up the new fiberglass bumper, mixed up this stuff called "kitty hair", it looks a applied like bondo, comes in gallon size tubs, but it is actually thick resin mixed with fiberglass strands. I added the hardener, plopped a bunch of it all around the flange till it ooozed out, and then bolted on the bumper loosely, back to where it had to go. Then I went under the car, and jammed more kitty hair into the void in between the bumper and car. Let it harden, then take it off and dress it up. Add panel adhesive and bolted it on nicely. (the glue had more surface contact now). Then blended it all out with fiberglass 😊
Thanks for the comment!
My man Tony Hawk got so many Talents . It’s amazing 💯
LOL! I see you followed my skateboarding career! 😉
the tape and plaster idea might work if you put extra tape over it in a crosshatch
since the tape will move some and the plaster is more rigit , it might crumble when you apply pressure to it while sanding
another "cheap"idea you might be able to try is paper machee (newspaperstrips soaker in wallpaper glue , once dried it gets pretty hard and you can sand it , allso can fill deep parts by crumpling up pieces of put pieces that are folder a few times and the lay more strips over it , does schrink some i believe
That 2nd fender came out great. The side skirt detail adds a nice touch. I have watched quite a few people attempt these creations. You have had the best planning and outcome from what I have seen so far. Would it not be easier to make a mold of the fender you prefer most? That way you know they match and you can always recreate a 3rd in case something bad happens.
Yep. Making a mold would be best!
Rem8ds me of the gallardo body lines
Thanks Friend!
Wow it’s coming along nicely
Thanks Friend!
Best video ever on building a widebody kit !!!! Widebody 101 on point👌
Thanks Friend!
@@ElectricSuperCar Just speaking facts and how do you get the measurements and to match up on the other side?
@@sayonsok2230 LOL! That is probably the hardest part. I purchase a profile tool that you can lock in the profile and then try to match it on the other side.
@@ElectricSuperCar I thought you would say something like by eye balling it 🤣👍
the very best way to improve method is quit changing but perfect the method that has worked in the past
It's a very good job.
The procedure for creating the left fender does not make it uneven! !!
Please create my left and right in that way.
use pour foam behind the tape, take the tape off and sand it to shape.
Whenever your taking the joint compound off, if you use a grinder to make vertical and horizontal lines, and then use the back of a hammer at a angle it knocks it right off
Thanks for the tip!
Hey, I just found your channel and I have to say what you're doing is super inspiring. I would love to attempt something like this on my own someday.
Go for it!
❤️ I forgot to mention on your other video once you do one side you can actually take your fender and have it 3D scanned and flipped for a matching side
Cool Idea!
An interesting method. I use the strip method when I do flares also except I use steel. I've tried and tried but I just can't seem to make an English wheel do what I need it to do so I just use strips of metal welded together with a lot of dollying and grinding.
Hey man side note when you're sanding that drywall mud you probably want to use the same respirator you're using for your fiberglass or at least a standard n95 mask construction style. you really don't want drywall dust in your lungs essentially it just turns back into concrete when wet
You could use blue foam board to carve your shape.
Definitely a good option!
experiments are good results can vary
You should tape up the lift like you did the tools
Great idea!
Love the videos man!!!
Thanks Friend!
If you soak Cheesecloth with the plaster, then lay it on the tape, it will support the structure. It's the same way casts are made for broken arms, legs etc.
Nice!
Well that was definitely interesting making your mold out of wall compound. Well you could have used plaster of Paris drying is alot faster. And wheel gap positions adjustable with suspension if you have that kind of kit .. well good luck
Thanks for the comment!
It looks great, has given me more confidence about doing it myself (if I stop putting it off and actually get to it that is) but as you said it might just be the angle you were looking at it from but the back right side of the arch did seem a little less too much taken off but as you also stated it was a little thinner so it could have just been the angle... looks really good though.
Thanks Friend!
Buy the powder mix they have the drying time on the bag.
Looks great. If you do this kind of project again you might try florist foam. Easy to carve and holds up to the glass resin. At least it worked for me.
Thanks for the tip!
Paint it. Trust me.
Cole, I think you qualify for the longest comment. 👍 Thanks for all the detailed info about wrap vs. paint! It is great to hear from another builder all the inside details! Thanks again for taking the time to comment!
He (wjp004 Redline Racing) basically uses mixed polyurethane foam and shapes it with knives, files, wires etc. Then skim it with dry mix joint compound. Paint it for sealing and final shaping with regular bondo. Paint it and polish. Wax and mold release. Then make your mold.
It's been a while since I saw your progress, your had just a few dozen subs when I started watching you... Great job! I love your work!
Instead of mounting those new fenders and-is, it might be best to use them as molds. The *inside* of those fenders are the perfect shape, not the outside.
And that way, you can control the thickness of the finished fenders, and you can lay support materials into the fenders, and the finish would be smoother. Just a suggestion... Keep up the great work!
Hey Brian, thanks for the suggestion! When I started these I was thinking that they would be the final fenders. But several have suggested to use as molds. I may have to rethink my strategy.
for those who try molding with sheetrock mud, try getting "hot mud" a powder available at most hardware stores, dries much faster!
Thanks for the tip!
Go to the florist shop and get the green foam they use. glue it in strips with a small amount of hot glue. you can put more glue between the foam blocks than on the body
Build up the foam then you can shape it with sand paper and cheese grater from body supply
Use cheap bondo to coat the foam and achieve final shape
Primer and sand to smooth finish
Wax mold release pva gel coat fiberglass
Now you have a mold for future replacement parts
Reverse the fiberglass process for you parts
Thanks for the suggestion!
This is awesome
Thanks Friend!
It is much easier to work with fleece. First layer with masking tape is smart to get the shape. And next layer should be fleece with resin with slow hardener. Cut it out roughly. Soak it and roll out allmost all resin before applying ot on the car . It is strechable and easy to work with like a wrap . Lay it down on the car and roll it out. Let it dry, sand it and continue with stranded fibre glass.
Thanks for the suggestion!
nice work
Thanks Cody!
This is awesome work! Great skills mate 👍🏼👌🏼
Cool stuff. With the drywall mud its water soluble you can wash it out with a pressure washer.
Great idea
@@ElectricSuperCar Where you located? I built Fast EVs as well! My whole life is EV stuff now. And the new CRX build is going to be insane! Always great to see others involved in the new world of hot rodding!
The best video. Thank you very much brother
Glad you liked it
@@ElectricSuperCar you are the best I like it brother
Use a wet sponge to sand the mud just before it drys it comes out smoother
Thanks for the comment!
Wow!!! That is awesome work.. I want to do something similar to my wife’s Evora
Thanks Friend! Go for it!
Just remember to tell her before you start...
If you use drywall, get 20 min. It hardens
faster and allows for more coats. There is a plus and negative to it. Negative is you have to mix youself in batches. Plus is you can make it thick or thin as you need.
Thanks for the tip!
Drywall cleans up with water. Next time hose it down and use a wet sponge to get particles. You also can smooth the dry wall with a damp sponge instead of sanding.
Enjoyed the video and like this method you worked out
Awesome
Thanks!
great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
"Trust me, it's good" LOL
soak panel in warm water, drywall will wash off with hose.
Thanks for the tip!
Isn't drywall water based? I know spackle is. Using the water hose to soften it would help break it apart and remove it.
Yes! You are right!
Good job awesome 👏🏻
Thanks Friend! Don't forget to check out the finished product. czcams.com/video/_xd8YgW1nM0/video.html
You can use a wet sponge instead of sanding the drywall mud save time and less mess.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I like it👍
Thanks Friend!
I know a lot of people who use foam, its easier to sand or carve. or get you 1 of those Contour Duplicator Tools.
Nice job but you need to put two or three layers of lacquer then a release agent and you will have a clean separation
Thanks for the comment!
I might not be looking in the right place, but you mentioned you were going to reinforce the new fenders. I see in the wrap up video a quick segment on how to attached them, but I'm not seeing a full video of that process.
Still working on it. Stay tuned!
you should start making those for the 2002 Honda Accord
For someone trying this now try using Foil tape, make a template of the shape transfer that to fiberglass, then wet the fiberglass set it in place and roll it smooth.
Great idea!
this is awesome
Thanks Friend!
I'm about to try using foam (not expansion foam). The sculpture foam. I found out that epoxy resin will not eat away Styrofoam like the polyurethane
Finally have been able to get through all your video's :) if you need help figuring out the lights in that drive selector it's pretty simple i would be Willing to help/ program.
Thanks for the offer. I may have to take you up on it
@@ElectricSuperCar not a problem at all. For me it's super easy so being able to teach you something is my pleasure. You might even be able to use it in for instance your tail lights, make some Running indicators like the modern high end cars have. Or for instance to make your dash since you can interface gas car gauges with it.
you can lay/stretch out some fabric like fleece and then put a light coat of resin. give you your shape thern can build off that
Thanks for the comment!
Here's the move. lay down the Painter's tape, then a layer of the packaging tape
Thanks for the comment!
@@ElectricSuperCar I think I'm going to try that on my Fiero.
@@sp0764 good luck my friend!
I’ve watched the attack for a long time and it’s a severely underrated purchase if you can tool that especially with idk Mugan options?
Hey, the easiest way to laminate the panels oto yoour car is rough up the panel below with a course flap wheel on your grinder then use resin and fiberglass to bond the two together. so after a half an hour the are bonded together . I hope that this helps you. 3M also makes a panel bond but, its expensive. With a fiberglass body its just that easy. Hope it goes well for you
Pretty much what I did. Check it out
czcams.com/video/b5V7C77fb_4/video.html
You might try "aluminum foil" over your tape. Works great. Just spray the foil with super 77. And apply. Used this method many times 😀😀
Ur an art'tise 🎨
Thanks Friend!
Possibly try fibreglass mesh tape like is used for drywall?
Thanks for the suggestion!
where are you going to create the MagSafe Charger Mount lol..
If you try using drywall mud again maybe use a quickset next time so you don't have to wait so long for it to dry.
Also if it sticks again soak it in warm water then pressure wash it
Awesome Tips!
For future reference sheet rock is water soluble so you can just wash it out.
Good call
Ah ha I've been doing exact same method experiments.
I did package tape. Then fiber glass cloth one layer. Now you have a stable enough surface.
If you use Epoxy instead of polyester resin. You can buy a gallon for 99$. Online. It's 20% tougher. So this one layer is cost effective to make a good surface once dey you can sand prime and body fill if need be for a buck.
The plaster compound works great as Bondo but it need support it is not fiber glass and resin. Drying time, cracking when thick can't move it too fragile.my method using package tape, then Cloth ( not mat = to lumpy) and polyester resin or cheap two part table top epoxy makes faster ,work a hella less SANDING and a strong enough movable part.
Thanks for the comment!
Just create the shape with fleece and resin and then fiber glass from inside to make it strong.
Thanks for the comment!
aluminium foil/tape works well to stop the resins from being absorbed.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I just came up with a idea watching the part with the tape. What if u seal it first before fiberglass. Maybe coupe light coats of primer? Oh and how about using electrical tape instead of paper base tape? I'm getting interested in doing the same stuff...making wide body kit. So I'm checking out some videos. Got any tips I'd appreciate it. Also I want to wrap my car too.
You'll have to try it and let me know
Awesome work again!!!!
Front wheel arches look spot on!!!
The rear arches and fibreglass work looks brilliant man. I wasnt sure the drywall would work at first but you've taught me a lesson there and the clean up was much less.
I'm so looking forward to this being finished and your grin when driving.
Am I allowed to ask about the finish paint?
Good to hear from you again! Open to suggestions about finish color, I haven't decided yet
@@ElectricSuperCar I suppose theres alot of options available, paint, wrap, dip etc.
I dont know... always loved blue myself, my Tvr is red and daily car is storm white (pearl)
I'm sure no matter what, it'll look brilliant finished.
Maybe a blue wrap
www.3domwraps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/lamborghini-blue_chrome.jpg
@@ElectricSuperCar looks smart. Maybe a photoshop version before going the whole way?
Good idea
Druwall mud dissolves in water. Next time soak it with water and it will come off easier
Nice!
woah a k1 attack, didnt know they still make these, can you still order these kits new?
Yep
Did you try dense cell foam yet? Easy to sculpt, doesn’t sag.
Not yet. Can you suggest a product? I may try it out next go around
@@ElectricSuperCar I don't have a particular product, I had made some fiberglass brake ducts a few years ago. I started with house construction large sheets of dense foam. I got large pieces, like 4ft x 2ft by 2 or 4 inches thick from lowes/home depot (it was green in color if that matters). It's really tight cell, so you can cut with a knife, you can use an oscillating tool, sandpaper (like 80 grit) or a wood-planing handheld tool. You can make really smooth surfaces and exacting corners. I glued 2 sheets together with gorilla glue or spray glue, to make it double thick, then sculpted it. It is very messy b/c the foam dust goes everywhere, that's the worst part, so lots of vacuuming and wear a particle mask so not to breathe it in. But it's super light, and easier than clay. Obvi it's got its own structural stiffness, so it doesn't sag like tape. Then you can fiberglass right on top of it. For my ducts, I dissolved the foam from the inside, my mentor said use gasoline, but that's awfully smelly, there might be other chemicals to eat it away, if you needed to. If I was making your fenders, I would not even worry about removing the foam, it hardly adds much weight and helps with panel stiffness.
Professional car designers make models from foam like this. I think the current process is that a rough shape of the car is made with huge foam blocks, then carved, then they still lay soft clay to form it. Of course don't use clay for your car, just saying that's how concept car designs start out life.
Cool! Thanks for the detailed reply. I am super excited to try it out sometime.
Couldn't you have just used the hose to wash off the drywall mud? Cause it comes off pretty well with water...
Great comment!
Try durabond its dry wall compound in a bag you mix water with it and you can get it in 5 minute 10 all the way to 90 minuet
Thanks for the comment!
I don't know if anybody has offered this but put blue tape down then aluminum tape on top of that then lay fiberglass.
Awesome suggestion!