IAT ( Intake Air Temperature Sensor ) Diagnosis P1111, P1112, P0113
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- DIY home mechanic diagnosing an intake air temp (IAT) sensor code on a 1999 Malibu. Includes various methods of testing with and without a scan tool and explanation of the IAT function and circuit.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
I appreciate the fact that he speaks clearly, and explains each step with precision and patience.
This man is a fucking genius. A calm, patient, patron of the arts, a philosopher to reflective and humble to call himself so. God bless your heart, Matt.
I know Im kind of randomly asking but do anybody know a good place to stream new movies online?
@Luka Finnley Flixportal :P
@Lian Toby Thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service :D Appreciate it!
@Luka Finnley Happy to help xD
He Knows his Mechanicals And Wise. Very Good Mechanic And Explanations Easily Understood. Your absolutely A Great Instructional Guide. Thank You.
Thank you!!!
Thanks will do. Any link to your paid channel pleasse?
SchrodingersboxQM.com.
Man, you are the best. I have P0113 error on my 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse. My mechanic told me "Oh, buy a new IAT sensor and a new harness connector because the one you have on the car is not compatible with new sensor's connector" so I bought the stuff and the issue wasn't solve, so my mechanic said "Oh man I sorry I don't know what else to do, pay me $1000mxn (like $50usd) for changing the sensor and the connector". I obviously didn't paid anything to him, and now I'm trying to debug the issue. Your video explain everything I need. By reading on internet I had almost the same notion as you mention of the function of IAT circuit and how to troubleshoot, but now with your video I have clarified my ideas. Thank you so much man, I appreciate how you share your wisdom. Saludos desde México!
As a brake and front end guy for the past 34 years it's great to be able to learn a new truck thanks to videos like this. You don't just show how but explain why you do what you do methodically.
That tracer tool seems priceless.
Thank you I hope this opens a new world.
This is a GREAT video!
Mine has trouble starting the first time during the day. After that it starts fine.
It was time for it, so I changed plugs, wires and coils, and the Mass Air Flow sensor (after cleaning the original miles = 275,000).
So here I am researching on your great videos.
Hey! A mechanic who’s not a parts changer! I thought I was all alone! Glad to see you are making knowledgeable videos! Listen to this guy people, he knows his ish.
One of the best mechanics on the net,hands down.
fatdog2 100%
Very polite too. He says sorry for the mess.
Do you mean Thumbs Up, Hands Up? Yes, Very Good Mechanic Easily Understandable About Process.
I have the Power-probe Master kit as well and yes, it has definitely paid for itself. I've ran into this exact issue and you did exactly what needed to be done, good job Matt. Remember, when the engine is stone cold, all temp sensor signals should be identical if not close. You can quickly do a rationality check with a scan tool by looking at all the temp sensors.
I love that volt meter tester! I got one a while back idk why I havnt used it my car has been shuddering so bad lately !! Thank you so much bro!! Keep up the good hard work!! Smarter not harder!
Thanks so much for your clear, easy to understand videos! You're great at breaking down "complex" material into understandable language for us "non mechanics".
Much appreciated! P.S. I have not thought of the Vidal Sasoon (sp?) commercial since the 80s!!!
Nice to hear someone who speaks my language. Very logical process and well explained. Keep it up. Your collection is a wealth of valuable knowledge. Gold.
Wow, thanks!
I really hope most mechanics would troubleshoot like you do!
I feel like I just went to a real mechanic class. More than I ever thought
I would understand about that sensor!
This video is EXACTLY what I am having a problem with, I have the code PO113, I replaced my sensor because I thought that would fix the problem, all the while I suspected the wiring. You gave some excellent info on the process. Tomorrow morning I will look for a bed wire to reconnect. So good !!. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. My first instinct of course, was to just change the sensor on an F150 I've been working on. After jiggling the wires, the truck started running great. As with most vehicles, they only use enough wire to just reach it's destination. Looking at the plug I could see the wires had been twisted and folded and probably broken inside the shielding right at the plug. I got a new pigtail/plug and cut off the old plug. Got it all wired up and truck is running fine . Waiting for the code to clear now.
Informative, great presentation and a lot more clear than the factory service manual. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Matt,
I've been in the electrical trade in one form or another for almost all my 68 years and to hear you say you don't know much about electrical is not being fair to yourself. You know quite a lot.
I found your video incredibly helpful, easy to follow and understand. I'm troubleshooting the same sensor (showed up on my scanner as code P0111) on my 2010 Genesis and feel your video will make it much easier.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much,
Eric Clenney
Thank you very much! I seem to have a lot of electrical engineers on the channel.
Dude ! Awesome job 👏 Thanks much. Been troubleshooting this thing for days... You're the first one to suggest a short in the harness...
Hi Matt, first off I want to say I love your scientific approach to problem solving and diagnostics. You and ScannerDanner are my anti-parts-changer CZcams auto-diagnostic idols!
Coming from an engineering/physics background, I am curious about the nitty-gritty details of how a system works. After understanding the basic workings, the diagnosis/repair usually come naturally. Like yourself, I am self-taught when it comes to auto repair, and always gather evidence before jumping to conclusions and changing parts :)
A quick clarification on the IAT functionality and circuit design as I see it:
In any fuel injection system, at the end of the day the PCM needs to know the mass flow (not density or volume) of the air entering the engine to deliver the correct mass of fuel.
In a MAF-equipped engine (like this Malibu), the IAT is actually not crucial to the PCM's calculation of air mass entering the engine. In fact, the MAF or Mass Air Flow hot-wire sensor by design takes into account the density of the air! A given volume flow of warm air will give a lower MAF reading than that same volume flow of cooler air, as the cooler air is more dense and effectively has more mass.
On the other hand, in a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)“speed-density” configuration, the IAT is a crucial input to the PCM for calculating the mass air flow. First, the volume flow (liters/sec) of the incoming air would be proportional to the [engine displacement x RPM]. Now, to get the mass (g), we need to multiply the volume (liters) of air by its density (g/liter) inside the intake manifold. From the ideal gas law, we derive that density (g/liter) is proportional to [pressure / temperature], or [MAP / IAT]. So finally we get [mass air flow (g/sec)] ~ [displacement (liters) x RPM (1/sec) x MAP / IAT]. NOTE: the word “proportional” means that there is a constant multiplier, so the actual units and numbers work out.
As for the circuit design itself, for a 2-wire thermistor, the 5V reference wire is the signal wire, which is designed to be pulled to ground (ScannerDanner explains this concept very well). In other words, there should never be any voltage on the second wire, as it is a constant ground (in PCM or external) as you drew in the schematic. So hotter temp → lower IAT resistance → lower voltage on the ref/signal wire.
I hope that my explanation was helpful and clear, as I had a hard time wrapping my head around that logic at first! The science and engineering that is involved in even one sensing circuit, let alone an entire system, is not trivial by any means! Looks like the modern “shade tree mechanics” are going to be investing in scanners and scopes soon haha
And that was a really cool tool you used to find the open circuit! Will have to get one to help pinpointing opens/shorts.
Again, thanks for the great videos, looking forward to more diagnostics!
Ivan
Thanks for the comment and yes I agree with everything you said. The IAT is relatively minimal in a MAF engine and in fact on a MAP and MAF engine the MAP is relatively minimal as well- it is generally used to confirm changes in pressure that would be anticipated from things suck as opening the EGR valve. If the EGR valve is commanded open but the MAP remains the same, it is safe to assume (from the PCM's perspective at least) that the EGR never opened.
I appreciate both your guy's videos. I'm a huge fan and subscribe to both your channels. I didn't know you had such a technical background, Ivan. And Matt, your videos keep me going back and forth between yours, Ivan's and Eric O's videos. Scanner Danner's videos are also very explanatory and really help with the pico scope. Keep up the videos guys!
Bravo!!
Fantastic explanation!!
Clear,concise and certainly educational.
My FIXD scanner suggested your video on IAT...glad I'm already a subscriber! Your awesome 👍
Man, you are a great teacher and thank you so much for making these videos. You are making the learning process a lot easier for me.
I have been learning alot from You and ScannerDanner Matt since I bought a 16 year olds Mercedes. So, in conclusion. Being driving an old car will be worth in learning...Thanks
Huge thanks to you sir for breaking the sensor and it's purpose in such detail.
Great article!
Thanks for sharing!
Though I figured out most of what you said, it's still nice to hear someone else explain it, and learn a thing or two of the topic that I overlooked! :)
That was exactly what I needed to see. I may have damaged the IAT connector in my Dodge 4.7l engine when removing the stuck #8 spark plug and coil. My symptoms started after changing spark plugs. That is when I got the P0113 code and intermittently poor acceleration and misfire. Thanks.
you sir are a teacher by nature and a genius. I am an electronics tech. by trade, but not a good one. Your video is very helpful.
Grateful to access this educational video from you. Always a pleasure to watch them.
I loved your video, and praise your skill as a mechanic. I particularly like your use of a wire tracing tool to find a break in a wiring harness! I have one of those... for tracing phone lines in buildings, and I'm going to use it your way... Right on!
By the way, we are opposites! As such, I might have some simple advice that will enhance your t/s skills in this age of sensors, actuators, and computers. I'm an orthodox, experienced hardware electronics engineer, and only an occasional "mechanic." I noticed your naivete about electronics right at the beginning of the video ... with no animus, only praise that you solve problems day in, and day out, despite this naivete. If you'd learn Ohm's Law and (importantly) realize how useful it is (via voltage drops, when current flows) you'd be barking up the right tree, on some of the theory points you are flirting with.
So there exist voltage and current sources; laypersons easily grasp the notion of a car battery as a voltage source; a new battery is a very good voltage source. Then there are voltage dividers (and also current dividers, a more subtle point) and t resistors convert voltage sources to current sources, back and forth, back and forth. Point being that once current starts flowing, voltages observed (relative to ground) start dropping, the further you get, down the line from the voltage source.
I won't go further with this lecture... and I compliment you for making the long, detailed video, to help me and a lot of other people by being so generous.
Hey, I would have looked for a wiring diagram before doing any repairs. You didn't bother. Instead, you used a wire tracing tool. Bravo! I learned something about the practical world.
I like your videos
It’s nice to finally see someone on here that actually knows what they are talking about.
Very good explanation and conclusion. One thing you may also do is to check another sensor because the 5 Volt reference is usually shared between several sensors. Interestingly, yesterday I Plugged my expensive Tech 2 into a Chevy S10 ( 2000 year model 2.2L) that I just bought for $600 and found the exact same reading after diagnosis, but have not had the vehicle in hand to check the wiring. As you stated, be especially careful checking the Reference volts because a short to ground can toast the ECM/
I need one of those signal tracking tool looks like it save you lot's of time, headache,frustrations and swearing at least for me that I'm not an electrician.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge
Scannerdanner brang me to this channel and now im here to stay. Love your thought process going into a diagnosis
Well I am happy to have you join the channel Matthew. I owe Mr Danner big time- ever since he gave me the "like" and commented on his google+, I got more subs in the following week than I did the previous year combined. Paul is the man, ain't he? I recently subbed to his premium channel and follow along on his e-book and I learned more in the last 7 days than I probably have in the last 7 years on my own. He's truly amazing and to this day the best compliment I have ever received from a subscriber is that I am like a "poor man's scannerdanner" lol!!! I don't think you'll see me with a picoscope any time soon though!!
I'd just like to say that I really enjoy your channel. I'm a DIY'er that has a desk job during the day but I love working on my cars. With 3 kiddos and 5 vehicles in our driveway, we cannot afford new cars. I get great satisfaction in keeping my fleet up an running. Saving money and the feeling of fixing something is always a rush. I'll admit that I watch a lot of videos trying to diagnose and determine the best route to take which can often be part swapping. And even though I find the problem pretty quickly, I know I sometimes replace parts that did not need to be replaced. I really like your approach of finding the why behind the what. Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail how you find the root problem is. I'm investing in a power probe kit that you use. Looks like a great tool especially since my vehicles are up to 15 years old with up to 260,000 miles. I really try to take of what I have and make it last as long as possible.
I wanted to see if you might want to offer some advice on a problem I'm have on my daughters 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 v6. We bought the vehicle with 82k miles and its in really great shape but looks like it has set up a while. My daughter is 17 and I as with all my kids, I want them to have some working knowledge on how to work on cars so they don't get taken advantage of when they move way from home. We have replaced all the brakes, shocks, fuel pump, IAC valve, flushed brake system, replaced radiator, thermostat, flushed cooling system, flushed power steering fluid, changed differential fluids, belts, hoses, throttle position sensor.
Here is my problem. On cold start, no idle problem. She drives to school which is about 15 minutes away. After her class she leaves about 45 minutes later, it idles really high around 2500 rpm and then bogs down as she puts it in gear and drives away. When it bogs down it sounds like its not getting fuel. Fuel pressure is good. After about 5 seconds or so of driving, it will stop bogging down an run ok. When she puts it in part, it revs really high. I replaced the IAC valve and TPS thinking that would stop the problem but no luck. I am wondering if it could be the air temp sensor? Any advice you can offer up? Thank you... And there are no engine codes being thrown
WHat data do you have? What is the STFT and LTFT at idle vs load? When you changed the TPS and IAC, what were the IAC positions and did you confirm voltage response from TPS? I need to know the data you used in your diagnosis of TPS and IAC before I can help.
The vehicle is not throwing any codes. Honestly I do not have any of the information you are asking for. Please note that I have been in a part replacing mode up until now. You have convinced me to do a better job diagnosing. Not exactly what to check first based on the symptoms. Could you recommend which parts I should test first? I have just today ordered the power probe kit. I do have a volt meter and an Actron engine code reader/diagnostic tool. I will check to see if the scanner will give me the STFT and LTFT data. I did not confirm any voltage response from TPS when I changed the TPS and IAC. I just know it did not fix the problem. Just not sure where to start. Definitely seems like once the vehicle is warm it acts up vs. cold start. But even after driving for long periods, it wants to idle high once we put it back in park. And gas mileage sucks bad.
Jeremy-Stephanie Millar Yeah without any data I'd be no better at guessing than anyone else. If you get me some data I can help.
Sounds good. I guess I'll start with fuel trims and then see if TPS is working properly. Thanks for the quick response.
Awesome, Thank you very much. 5 years ago but usefull on my Harley next week. Thanks again.
Great lesson! Thanks for this clear explanation. This is the best one among everything that I could find on CZcams :)
Wow, thanks!
Thanks Matt I will have to get one of those gizmo`s. I am working night shift with lots of time HA! I`m in Canada and working in a diamond mine near the arctic circle freaking cold. I have 4 TEC Red seal trades (good for anywhere in Canada) and one is an HVAC trade and I too struggle with electricity relays all over. My e mail starts with Vulcan so you can see that I see all your stuff is really logical! The best way to under stand components is to figure out there true operation and proceed from there down the line. Keep up the good approach you take to all you do very logical!!
I like the way you go about trouble shooting things. Great videos, thank you for sharing Matt.
Hi , from all the videos that i have seen that you made, i know for sure that your knowledge on automotive repair and diagnosis is quiet impressive. So i have a trouble on my 2000 Ford Focus DOHC, with a 5 speed manual transmission.
My dilemma is, when the engine is cold, the idle goes up and down, i call it pulsating. On idle the "engine goes from 1000 to 1500 repeatedly till the eng gets to operating temp. Then it starts to idle fine. Please help to try and solve my problem.
And thank you for your time.
No worries, Schrodinger, I have a feeling most of us clod through the electrical side as best we can, just how it is in real world. Excellent instructional vid, sir. 2 thumbs way up.
Love that you show the science behind the operations of the computerized systems. You and ScannerDanner are my go to guys. Thank you
Nice Work. I now know how to approach fixing a similar issue with confidence.
Thanks for this video! I'm chasing down this exact problem on an old '98 Cavalier and being one of the idiots you mentioned at the beginning of the video, hoped that replacing the IAT sensor would just make the problem go away w/o actually checking it first. Fortunately, I only wasted $15 on the part. Now I'm off to find one of those signal sending units!
+Rod Newcomb lol pretty bold of you to admit that lol.
I might be able to save you the trouble though... turns out a GM tech saw this video and informed me that there is a TSB about this exact issue and almost always the problem is a bad wire exactly at the location I found in the video. So basically if you just peel the wiring protector back about 6 inches from the connector you will be very likely to find the open just like I did.
Good vid man! That reference to ETCG's wire soldering video was hilarious..man his vid was so bad I thought it was a joke lol. GM issued a Technical Service Bulletin on this issue for this year make and model relating to these codes. I think in the past somebody had perfumed the repair for the TSB and did a poor job. Here is the TSB for your reference:
Service Engine Soon Light With Stored Codes P0112, P0113, P1111 or P1112 (Replace IAT Sensor Connector)
1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs M, J, E -- RPOs L82, LG8 , LA1)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the service engine soon light is on.
The TECH 2 will show stored diagnostic trouble codes P0112, P0113, P1111, or P1112.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a broken wire at the intake air temperature (IAT ) sensor connector. The break may not be readily apparent as the insulation may be intact.
Correction
If routine diagnosis leads to a broken wire at the IAT sensor connector, replace the connector as follows:
Remove the tape from the engine harness convoluted tube where the IAT circuit wires join the main engine harness.
Locate/isolate the 2 IAT wires within the engine harness.
Disconnect the IAT connector from the IAT sensor.
Remove the tape from the IAT and MAF (mass air flow) sensor wires to allow removal of the IAT wires.
Important
Before cutting the IAT circuit wires, it will be necessary to determine the proper length. You need to add 38 mm - 50 mm (1.5 in - 2.0 in) to the length of the wire going to the IAT. Also, when cutting the IAT circuit wires, it is important that the wires are cut in a manner that will not create a large mass. Stagger the cuts and install the connector kit. Original connector cavity "A" has a red wire and cavity "B" has a tan wire. Make sure cavity "A" and cavity "B" wires on the replacement pig tail connector match "A" and "B" wires on the engine harness. This will provide strain relief and prevent recurrence of this concern.
After staggered cuts are made on the IAT wires in the engine harness, strip a small amount of the insulation from both wires and install the kit butt connectors to the bare IAT wires by crimping both.
Stagger the cuts on the pig tail wires to match the IAT engine harness wires.
Strip a small amount of the insulation from the pig tail IAT wire ends. Install and crimp both wires into the open end of the butt connectors that were installed on the engine harness IAT wires.
Heat shrink both IAT butt connectors and let the wires cool off.
After cool down is completed, the harness can be neatly taped with electrical tape.
Install the IAT connector on the IAT sensor.
Clear the codes.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12102620
Connector Pig Tail
1
As always, thanks and great input. Given that information I would surmise that this exact issue is what happened at some point and a previous owner replaced the connector on their own but it didn't hold. When I examined it, the wires were just twisted together and electrical taped. I'm sure at some point when the air filter was changed, the stress on the wiring at shoddy repair created the open.
Thanks for all your great videos Mat, I am watching many of them for all your explanations and "how the sensors work", I am having a MAF sensor with problem that take a lot of time to find the problem, No codes on a BMW 2010, finally found that the integrated (IAT) into the Bosch MAF sensor was reading wrong like 10 Degrees more but it work. I am just a DIY but finally find the problem, I will look for any video showing those scenarios and what should be the normal intake temp in different environment. Thanks
Seriously awesome and informative video!!!
I know this is an old video, but it's detailed with a good explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Execllent! Brilliant. He is at least as smart as I am. One of my friends has a similar issue with coolant temperature sensor. Hhw had replaced the sensor on the advice of a mechanic but the problem did not go away. My cheap scanner reported a ridiculously low temperature. I thought it had to be an open circuit. I followed the coolant temperature sensor wiring and found that it had been chewed out by a rodent.
Awesome video! Very detailed and informative. You definitely know what your doing. Thankyou for the terrific video
Jesse N Glad you enjoyed it. That's how I roll!
Thanks Matt for the help diagnosing an IAT problem. I will continue by testing the sensor as you did. I'll also check the voltage coming in, and the continuity to ground at the connector. I did get a chuckle at your pronunciation of the thermistor; it's not pronounced Ther-Ma-Stor, but actually pronounced Ther-Mister. Have fun and keep your videos coming. [Edit/Add] Mine has no voltage to the IAT sensor and the sensor has 1.6KΩ resistance at 80°F. The sensor is not shorted nor open, so 237mV DC is the culprit. Have to trace the wiring later. Thanks for the clues.
St. louis accent. Can’t help it. But to correct you, it’s actually pronounced ThermistOR not ThermistER.
Really informative video. Thanks for the great job!
i feel the same way when i fix something like this. i had the same problem with a honda mb-5 motorcycle cdi unit that had an open from the pickup coil. great video
Very good explication of the temperature sensor, thanks. !!!
Wow, wow, wow!. I was just looking on Amazon today and found this short detecting device. I though it would be cool to have. But You've just sealed the deal. Thanks, also good explaining the IAT.
Buy it!!!! I use this thing all the time and it's a huge time saver! You will be pleased!
Wow awesome been thinking what's going on with my car you had a great video
This is a great video. ..
Very helpful, thanks
Great diagnostic procedures,thanks
This guy really knows his stuff. And this is a sideline - I think he's actually a molecular biologist.
Fabulous job! I believe we may be a lot alike. I've always been crazy curious and NEED to know how everything works. When someone asks me a question, I never answer their question, I tell them how things work, which enables them to answer their own question and a lot more they will have in the future. It's not that different than the old saying, "Give the man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish and he will eat for a lifetime." The tester you use is often referred to as a Fox and Hound by the company that popularized it and which I use in IT.
My thoughts based on what you just taught me are:
- P0112 Circuit Low Input: If it is an open sensor, bad connection, or open in the wire, it will show Circuit Low Input, which is a less common failure.
1. Disconnect the IAT sensor, turn on the ignition, take a volt meter, and measure between the connector contacts and ground. You should see the 5v reference on one of them. If you don't, a Fox and Hound can save you a lot of time finding where the open is or if it is at the PCM.
2. If you do have a 5v reference, measure between the two contacts of the plug and you should see ~5v. If you don't, you can again use the Fox and Hound to chase down the connection issue is on the return wire or if it is at the PCM.
3. Assuming the above are OK, it is beginning to look like a bad sensor. Pull the sensor, get a hair dryer, switch the meter to ohms and connect the leads to the sensor. It should not read like an open circuit at room temperature. Turn on the hair dryer heater and aim it at the sensor. You should be able to see the resistance go down as it gets warmer. If it doesn't, it is defective.
- P0113 Circuit High Input: If it is a shorted sensor or the return wire shorted to a reference wire, it will show Circuit High Input, which is the more common failure.
1. Disconnect the IAT sensor, turn on the ignition, take a volt meter, and measure between the connector contacts and ground. You should see the 5v reference on one of them, not both. It would be unlikely that you would find the 5v reference on both, which would indicate a short, but you needed to pull the connector for the previous test anyway, it only takes a second to check, and it saves you from unnecessarily pulling and testing the sensor. If the signal is on both, you most certainly have a short in the wiring, or you have a PCM issue. This won't be so easy, but using a Fox and Hound by separating the two wires with jumpers at connectors to separate them along the way, you can determine which section the short is in, to know roughly where to look for damage, and where to unwrap the harness. Fortunately, this would be an unlikely failure. Another unlikely situation for a PO113 Circuit High Input would be to not find reference voltage on either, which would indicate wires open by the time they got to the connector and shorted somewhere after the open, or a bad PCM.
2. If you do have a 5v reference on one of the wires, measure between the two contacts of the plug and you should see ~5v. If you don't, you either have an open on the return wire and a short between a reference wire and the return wire beyond the open, or there is something fishy with the PCM. Here again a Fox and Hound can help. While again, this type of failure is very unlikely, you already have the connector in hand from the previous test, you don't have to pull anything to do the test, and it can prevent an anger issue later.
3. If the above tests OK, pull the sensor, switch to ohms, and connect to the the sensor's connectors. At room temperature it should not read 0 ohms (shorted). If it looks good, get a hair dryer, turn in on, and aim it at the sensor. You should be able to see the resistance change. If it doesn't, it is defective.
*I'm also guessing there could be the obscure situation where it would take an expensive piece of equipment that measures with its own sensors and compares them to the readings of the car sensors to determine exactly where the problems are, as could be the case when there are multiple sensor issues. However, at least by following your logic, the odds are stacked WAY in my favor that if I buy one, it will fix the problem.
Sounds like a reasonable flow chart to me... although I seldom use flow charts for the exact reasons you mentioned in the first paragraph. I have no need for flow charts because I understand the system.
Thanks to you, I learned I didn't need the sensor. Using your logic, the sensor and circuit checked out fine. I also found a section in the vehicle's Repair Manual that contained all of the logic of how it sets, how it resets, how long it keeps history, AND a huge table of each temperature and what the resistance should read as well as what the computer should read for temperature when it is shorted and open. The sensor was drop-dead perfect. I would be lucky to fine a replacement to be that accurate. I reset the codes and told her to tell me as soon as she gets the light. She got the light very shortly after I reset it. However, this time, the only code was PO135, Bank 1, Sensor 1, 02 Sensor Heater Circuit, which makes a TON more sense. The dealers and parts stores want $195 for the OEM sensor, but I already found the exact same AC DELCO 12581688 GM Original Equipment for $110. The car has a heat shield rattle too, so when it comes back, I'll check the wiring before I buy an 02 Sensor.
Thanks Matt, brilliant idea using the cable tracker, many thanks for this and all your hard work in making these videos. Kind regards Jay
Very Informative.. Once Again! Thanks for Another Great Video. It's Appreciated.
Good video. You made it informative,...and fun! Keep it up...
Novice here learning. I can trust your perception and I am tentative. Thanks.
Carl
I literally felt the relief when I realized all he needed was a cremp 😂😂
your the best thanks babe ..now maybe i can get some results...i wish you were in ga..id definitely come see you.
Thank you for the info ,,,from Belfast northern Ireland
GRACIAS MATT BIEN EJECUTADO COMO SIEMPRE...
A great video Matt .
Nice video and nice tools!
Cool video and description of codes. Thank's from Russia!
worked today Matt 9/13/18 had same problem on my 98 S10 2.2 and wasn't getting the 5 volts for the IAT
sensor started down the harness and found the broke wire problem fixed thanks for the great advice !!!
Yes it turns out this is a known factory defect and quite common on these models. Didn’t know that at the time though or i would have suspected it off the bat.
Now that I think about it, a day too late, A review on the Power-Probe would be awesome, especially with your sense of humor. I know for a fact the tool is...well, simply put, Badass.
Not a bad idea, I may consider a review of it but indeed it is badass. It's definitely one of those tools that once you have it you cannot live without it.
The only thing about it I can say I am not crazy about PP3 is the construction is a bit cheap. But this is a small complaint when compared to the incredible benefit it provides.
You are a legend. Subscribed.
Years later this video helped me!
Quality information = 100% subscription
Wow. What an awesome video!! Oh glad that Vidal Sassoon still looks good. Lol
Best teacher on the net. Everyone has weaknesses. Anyway, simple electrical theory is Ohm's Law :
E(voltage) = I(current) x R(resistance).
I'm more of a Kirchoff's Law kinda guy
Schrodingers Box , I originally was going to say that voltage increases with resistance , but I am not sure if that’s true, so I deleted it. Anyway, no disrespect to you. Keep up the Great work. Inspiring how you freely give back to the community your knowledge.
Look at your formula. Of course voltage increases with resistance.
Schrodingers Box , I thought that, but usually voltage is the constant variable in the formula, also with increased resistance current flow lowers, so It didn’t sound right.
"Firing the parts cannon" is an expensive way to fix your car.
Understand, diagnose, then repair is the way to maintain your vehicle.
with all the respect. I just realize if you know enough to understand this guy. thats means you don't need to listen to this guy. for solve your problem.
That would be true. That’s not my target audience. My target audience is those who want to get to that level.
Nice and clean I love your hand work cool
Awesome Lessons. Thank You Sir.
hey, great video..keep up the good work
signal tracker, ive never heard of that but thats awesome
Great video. Working the exact problem on a GM 3.1. Thanks for doing these, saved me butt loads of $$$$.
+Jason Bailey Yes it turns out a GM tech saw my video and he actually sent me a TSB that was issued long ago on this very problem. Chances are you will find an open in exactly the same location that I did in the video.
18:05 that shit was funny. Great video, I was even happy when you found the solution.
You do realize that foul language does not make you look and more intelligent, don't you?
Thanks for the video. I tested my sensor like you showed and the sensor is good.
Almost always is. I have actually never seen a bad IAT and in fact only ever one bad TPS.
Great video, it really helped me out as always. Just saying, although you may have a reason for this to avoid confusion, D=Mass/v....it does't matter regardless one bit to any other regular person if its explained as weight, just wanna tell ya but you probably already know this
Thanks. Heading to the garage to test your knowledge.
You mean APPLY my knowledge ;-)
Very educational thank you for your time doing youtube videos.
The coolest car guy I can say is awesome. Looks to be a cool friend if you don't have any friends like I do on this earth! Great video!!
hahaha I am sure you have plenty of friends lol. but maybe they can’t fix cars!
😂. I have one that I haven't reached out to since 25 yrs and now he's an electrician and works full time
On my 2006 ranger 3.0 the IAT is connected to the mass airflow sensor. So I believe I need to trace down where it's hooked up where it stops and put a new harness on it so I can be sure my sensors are working 🥴
Yeah almost all cars are like that nowadays. While the circuitry is separate, the units are integrated into one.
Excellent video thanks.
Very well done. Subscribed.
Well, like an idiot I went and bought a new sensor without testing. I figured the car is 20+ years old, a new one might clear up some issues. Oddly, AC Delco seems to have made the unit smaller. It fits the same but the overall size is smaller. I referenced the superseding part nos. many times and it matched up. Anyway, I was concerned about the size difference (even though it appears to read the same) so I found your video. My wire voltage was good as was my old sensor. Mind at ease. So, back in the old one went. A minor loss of $13 but still....I'd prefer to have the money. Thanks!
Good video. Thanks for sharing.
I can't wait for next one
Sweet fix !thanks for sharing..
Matt respect for , you are true passionate and Master of automechanics
abacus091 Hardly am I a master lol, but thanks. I often learn as much as the viewer is learning because I am learning as I am doing the video!
Thank you very much, i learned a lot from you
al
great video very educational! !
Still learning from this guy in 2022 (almost 23)
I’m still learning too!!!
Great information and it was very informative.💯