Rebolting Old Routes For Safety?? Alex Honnold and Jonathan Siegrist Debate || Climbing Gold Podcast
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- In this clip, Alex Honnold, Jonathan Siegrist, Lauren DeLaunay Miller, Leici Hendrix, and Fitz Cahall discuss who should take care of bolting and retro-bolting routes and when it's appropriate to do so as well as if safety should drive retrobolting efforts.
A route’s history is important, but does it make it sacred? As our sport grows, people are considering whether adding bolts to existing routes to make it safer or more accessible might be a valid idea. Prolific first ascensionist, student of the sport and arguably America’s best sport climber Jonathan Siegrist joins the Climbing Gold team to discuss.
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It was interesting to hear these different perspectives.
Snake Dike has like one move that might be 5.7 that is well protected. The long runouts occur on 5.4 terrain that anyone should be able to do, or they shouldn't be there. The integrity of the original ascent should be respected. The reason the Bachar-Yerian route on Medlicott Dome is such an epic route is the fact that the few bolts were placed on a 5.11 lead with thirty-foot runouts. To make this a safe route would be sacrilege and climbing the route would not be the same achievement. The gym is available if you want to minimize risk.
If US climbers there want to stay way below there potentiel and seeing there life time achievements beeing climbed in a few days by better climbers this is the way... Its the same with sandstone climbing in europe, yes these people are insanley skilled in what they do but in terms of beeing a good well rounded climber they fall way behind there potentiel. I personaly couldn't handel the thought of always holding back in a way and not comiting fully to a move. Can't imagine Sharma going for the dyno on Es Pontas if he had a 1/10 chance every attemped beeing in a wheelchair for the rest of his life...
The "archivment" part is purley mental its a purley personal thing if you consider it worth it or even blank stupid. For me to put just one example the rope solo in under 24 h of free rider was way more impressiv than the free solo but each there one.
you are so strong, you don t need bolts.
okay, 3 comments, i feel small. but Yosemite, pronounced my first time as Yose Mite, is as serious as anywhere else, don't this talk of trad fool you. we as climbers must all respect the tradition of Yosemite as a place that helped make THE concept of difficulty and what is real needs paying attention. hard only needs to be a fall after you didn't complete your figure eight.
Sacrilege to bolt an existing route originally climbed on placed protection. Plenty existing bolted routes and plenty locations where bolts are accepted. So there's no need to spoil traditional climbing venues with the addition of artificial protection.
I feel like it could be worth it just to place bolts with an indication of which is original and which is a newer bolt, so people could climb them in the classic style or the newer safer style.
Not just bolts, but also identify which cams were originally used and where they were placed 😂
That = ruining the route. If you aren't up for the challenge, go find something else!
That comment has to be one of the dubest ones out there, and it keeps popping up. That, or it's a joke... aha! Funny!!!
@@Steven-ro6os I agree on a personal level, but retro bolting is probably going to gain traction and you might as well compromise where you can when you can.
It would be a good idea just to drill the bolt holes and leave them empty. People who want safety can place those removable climbtech bolts. The ego people would have nothing to chop, and little holes every once in a while are less intrusive than bolts and hangers .
shut up gumby
Wow thats actaully a really good idea
@@klweth5439 Go do it!
Bolts everywhere just looks plain ugly.
Not every climb is for everybody. If you want safety take up Chess.
Idk man chess can get pretty heated...