The UNI-T UT181A Datalogging Multimeter Review Part2
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- čas přidán 8. 04. 2016
- The UT181A is the 8th UNI-T product I have purchased. On the outside, it appears UNI-T has attempted to make a product similar to the Fluke 289. I have not been overly impressed with their products robustness.
In part 2 I discuss ESD and attempt to repair the meter.
Part 1 may be found at:
• The UNI-T UT181A Datal...
The data for the meters I have tested may be found here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Answers to Frequently Asked Questions may be found here: docs.google.com/document/d/1g... - Věda a technologie
That was really interesting. I learned a fair bit. 6 years later I think that I am reading that they registered your concerns and now have upgraded the product to the EN 61326-1 standard. At least that is what I hope I am reading as I just bought one. So if true put in your sales commission claim. I really admire your knowledge and skill level, particularly swapping out that part.
If they have addressed any of my concerns, I am not aware of it. They have never contacted me about any of this testing. I have posted several times that I would be more than willing to invest the time to repeat these tests if they actually did release an improved version. Enjoy your new meter.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thanks Joe. I live on a boat so dry static is the last possibility. I’ll be more concerned about filling it with water, even though I did buy it for work. I think i sort of know how you fixed the problem, you did give several clues, so at some time I’ll look inside to see if there is anything different. They do quote the EN numbers in the current on line manual. That aside there is a need in the marine world for protection devices for our marine electronics from lightning surges. I was thinking that a highly protected “Uninterruptible Power Supply” might do the trick of protecting the main Navigation Computer (Ray Marine Axiom on mine) with a battery with an anti surge stack on one end (Fuse, Inrush limiter, Zener Diodes, Capacitors) then the battery then a DC/DC converter after the battery, ahead of the computer …….or something like that. If that interests you, I’ll buy your prototype. I’m going to great lengths to protect my Lithium Batteries by putting the whole solar charging system in what I hope will be a faraday cage housing.
Any way, loved your videos, and forwarded to some friends who are engaged in your similar field, as you set such a high testing standard. Really impressive.
@@williambunting803 I did make a detailed video where I attempt to harden the UT61 if you are interested.
I understand you didn't show the modifications, because you think you are protecting people, but I have to say I disagree. It's not like you would be showing how to build a gun, you would have been showing how to make a better input protection, which undoubtedly is better than bad or insufficient input protection. I am interested in how to make better input protection, and I wouldn't have expected a complete and thoroughly lecture, but I probably could have picked up some valuable do's and don'ts from you, since you obviously are quite competent on this matter.
People are generally very lazy and I'm including myself, so who knows whether I will be doing a proper search for the right information any time soon.
Made me angry for a moment. Could buy this meter with 14days of return time, to test everything myself. What I could not do is the same modding, as I would have to find out on myself. SO, after all, sadly, useless and thumbs down.
Thanks, another great review! By any chance, do you have some hi-res photos of the board? Or can you do that ? Thanks!
Intentionally informative meter 'destruction", I love the repair of the meter.
excellent job joe.... thanks a lot dear, i hope you can share with us the circuit u modified to the UNI t to make it protected.
Hello. Nice review. I have a question about the logging mode. Does it shut down the screen after some time ? how about the battery in that mode, how many hours does it last ?
The backlight has four levels, including off. Just hold the backlight button down for a second or so and it will turn off. You will find this on pages 33 and 44 of the manual. The meter also has an auto power save mode. Part of this is diming and turning off the backlight. This may be found on pages 45 and 46 of the manual. I am not aware of any published battery life hours. I would imagine it depends how old is the battery, how many charges. The meter uses a 2200mAh battery. Charge reads full at 8.5 and empty at 7.5. In the default mode, with the BL full on, the meter draws 87mA with a 7.5V battery. With the BL off, logging voltage at 1sec interval, the meter draws 53mA. So maybe 40 hours on a fully charged new battery. I've ran some test with it at 24 hours and had no problems.
Hi Joe.
Thanks for the informative and intelligent testing of the DMMs. Great job!
I have one questions:
(1) Since your test of the Uni-t 181A do you know if Uni-t has changed their design of this meter to up the failed protection circuit?
Their web page for the 181A seems to be stuck in 2015!
Thanks again for the great work you are doing.
I am not aware of them making any changes to the meter since I looked at it. If they do improve it, I plan to run it again.
@@joesmith-je3tq odd , i checked their website and it does includes en -61326
drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4Jyby-tjH5oRDhnTTlrTC0xaDg
@@meyou2798 The document you look at was signed 2014 (hence in effect for all sold UT181A) and seems to only include part of the 61326-1 and 61326-2-2 specifications. I checked their online manual and it doesn't mention 61326 at all. So, if I were to buy a UT181A, it would require me making the same modifications as joe smith did... and he doesn't want to reveal how he improved the UT181A. Which is a shame, as the UT181A looked like a decent multimeter for the money.
Excellent video Mr. Smith!!!. Sad to see my UT181A failing that way. I live in a carpeted house and during the dry winters the sparks makes a nice show. I have an idea of the modification you did to improve the multimeter but I don't want to test mine to see if I did it correctly. It would be very nice if you share the modifications you did to it to achieve that fantastic results. Thanks!!!
If you cut the PCB and rerouted some signals, then you have a pretty good idea indeed, but the proof is in the testing. If you are interested in seeing this change, I suggest you write UNI-T a professional email requesting it. It would be nice to see them improve the design for everyone's benefit.
I have been using the UT181 in the field now for 18 months, really handy having the data logging without needing to have a pc or android device on site while logging. It has been extremely accurate with no problems. In this video other than the ESD failure the 181 blew away all the other meters as far as the needs I have, but then again I have never blown a meter in the 60 years I have been using them.
The 181A, pretty much like all the UNI-T products I have looked at, do very poorly against my tests. I am not surprised. Assuming you are 80+ unless we are talking internet years. I would imagine there are many people who buy products and don't actually use them and they last their life time. Fairly common.
@@joesmith-je3tq What do you think.of UNI-T 139C or 139S and say APPA iMeter5? Would these be a good choice stand up against the tests you were conducting with transients?
@@stanleywhiteman6450 Let me ask you. After looking at more UNI-T products than any other brand, are you seriously expecting a different result?
@@joesmith-je3tq In your test check list in this video Uni-T UT139C has passed all tests. Its accuracy ok. Overall makes a good meter fir what it is. We have seen a great success with APPA iMeter5 accidently purchased in orange case - it works well, resisted all incorrect connections, has plenty of functionality for such a small card type meter and surprisingly during the real electric storm it was left in one particular setup connected to 240V mains for 2-3 hours it was fine after this event. At the same time Victor 921 was left connected to the same mains (do not ask why would anyone in their right mind to do so) but the real field test led to Victor 921 blown off with the laud bang and APPA iMeter5 was just smiling at the tingling of high transient which travelled several times that night on this source of power..Just saying..
@@stanleywhiteman6450 I ran two 139s and suspect both would have been damaged at the same level. Which was far below what I consider robust. Just saying....
Joe you're a God of multimeters !!!! Regards from Italy...
Creo que entendí tu modificación para el ESD.
Buen vídeo me suscribiré para aprender mas.
Saludos.
I would like to suggest whether the probes were gold plated or we got a thin gold thread and used as a conductor would we get different reading accuracy
Are you asking if you would gain anything by having the test leads made from gold? I don't think so. These meters are not that great in the first place. The higher class of meters are not using gold leaded probes and are much more accurate than these two meters, not to mention your normally running a 4-wire setup when you get into the lower resistance measurements.
I'm glad to see my Brymen TBM867 is that good. It also got that 61326 standard. I really enjoy your work.
Glad you enjoy the effort. I have never tested the 867. Only the 869 and the 235. Both very solid meters. However, as a reminder, I looked at the AMPROBE AM510 and 530. The 530 which is a higher cost, more features, it did not hold up near as well as the 510. The Fluke 87V is another meter that did very poor in the tests. I'm not suggesting the 867 is in any way worse than the 869s, only that I do not know. I have looked through some of those standards to get ideas how to test the meters. It would be fun to sit in on one being certified.
Hi Joe,
As far as i know the differences is the 869 got temperature readout and can withstand transients up to 12kv(1.2/50us surge) where mine does not show this spec. in the manual. It on show 1kv cat4 and 1450vp for the input
I was playing with one of those spark plug cleaners and open the gap on the relay. i forgot that the dmm was still connected and as i power it up there was just one big hell of a spark. I thought my meter has had it, but after i test it with my voltage standard tester i was very happy to see the meter passed all the tests. I opened it up and it looks the same as the 869's input protection.
It would be great if you can test it. Thanks for the reply.
Joe,
I made a mistake on reading the manual. the 12kv transient apply to my TBM867 as well.
Talking with Brymen, they did not expect the meter to survive the tests I ran on it. I think they were just a curious as I was to see how it would fair. The 12KV surge is for a safety standard only.
Hi Joe Smith. I got a Fluke old model 87. got lots of problem with it beening old disply prob and damge in bad way. I want buy a UT171B UNI-T Mater what do you is a good one or not. or should I get the new 87v model fluke. it would help for your recommendation. I definitely need a multimeter with 100 kilohertz bandwidth. Thanks Yannis
In the description, there is a link to a FAQ. There is also a link to a spreadsheet where I document the meters I have ran.
That was a great video about uni-t 181A
This is very thorough!
Hi Joe , I love all your videos and experimenting, in the future will you do a tell all video of the EXTECH GX900 Graphical Multimeter and compare it against all the multimeters testing in this video. Thanks.
Thanks. It's too bad they only offer an Android interface. Personally, I have no use for a cell phone and if I use a remote, I want it tied to a real PC running Labview. It looks like there are a few videos showing it. Just try CZcams's search. I have not watched any of them. Let me know if there is something specific you want to see that they do not cover and I may have a look at it.
So now we are 4 years later, did UNI-T ever update their meters to meet the ESD specs?
Not that I am aware of.
It's really great that you got the meter fixed. Thank you for providing all of the information - it was very interesting. I'm a little bit disappointed in your mentality of not mentioning the mods to protect people from themselves. No one would be using this kind of a meter if they have no interest in engineering or if they simply wanted to measure something. You get people who can afford to buy the best trusted name without much thought, and they do - the Flukes. Then, you get the people who are simply interested in measuring something just to get a number. They're going to be using the cheapest thing or just something low-end, such as that cen-tech. People who are looking for features for money are likely to be hobbyists looking to get the best return on their investment. I think it's reasonable to let them play with something at their own risk, especially if you do your due diligence with mentioning safety precautions or what not to do. Personally, I don't try to scaremonger, but I'm big on mentioning all safety problems that I can think of whenever entrusting someone with a task or product that presents some risk. "This WILL kill you or a member of your family if you screw it up. If you're ok with taking on this risk responsibly, then proceed." The jist of all this is that withholding education never yields benefits. It just frees you from personal responsibilitity which inevitably gets passed on to someone else, who is likely less competent or thoughtful. Life inherently carries risk. That said, if you have deep personal reasons for your beliefs - that's perfectly understandable. Sorry for the long message and thank you again. :)
+whatlions
Exactly what I was thinking.
+whatlions "I'm a little bit disappointed in your mentality of not mentioning the mods to protect people from themselves." An interesting take on it. If I were John D. Rockefeller, I would not give stock advice.
" I think it's reasonable to let them play with something at their own risk, ..." You seem to allude that I am somehow preventing people from playing. Again, an interesting take on it.
Consider that I have wasted a fair amount of my own time going over things like input protection:
czcams.com/video/wYCGnYglRjY/video.html
czcams.com/video/f99Ra1O_u7s/video.html
czcams.com/video/a2NVLzWV3_Q/video.html
Even in this video I talk about some of the basics. I understand for some people, this will never be enough. These people want to be spoon fed and just want to copy designs without understanding why things work. That's fine but these are the wrong videos to be watching.
"Life inherently carries risk. That said, if you have deep personal reasons for your beliefs -"
I appreciate you sharing your deep observation about life. I am certainly capable of assessing my own risks and to be clear, this is not something I need your input on.
"The jist of all this is that withholding education never yields benefits." Let's assume that you personally are skilled in the art. Nothing is preventing you personally from attempting to educate people where you feel I have fallen short.
Hi Joe. I actually completely missed your response on my comment and I'm sorry about that. I went back to this video just now because I recently bought this meter.
And you know, reading what I wrote at the time and reading your response to it - I was completely wrong. You actually went far out of your way to indicate every conceivable piece of information, tools for the job, and further reading. You didn't have to do any of that. You didn't have to post any of these videos for that matter. You certainly have nothing to gain here.
I try really hard not to be arrogant in life - I make a huge point of that in general. But even though I used polite language and tried to make some points about things, I was completely arrogant when assessing this whole situation. Arrogance can be completely blinding if that's a place from which a person anchors themselves in an argument.
The only thing I'd like to add is that I do plan to educate people as well, not specifically where I feel you've fallen short but just in general. I'd like to think that I'm coherent and consistent enough to pass information to others without putting them at risk or misinforming them, but we'll see.
Sorry that I've written what I wrote, it was a good lesson. Thank you for taking your time to make these videos.
Fantastic video. Thanks.
Has 181A any external reference voltage chip? ES51997 internal reference voltage has 50 ppm/C TC and I think it's not good for such accuracy (0.025%).
I am not sure what they are using for a reference.
Excellent review!!! thanks
Glad you enjoyed it.
I'm interested in the mod you did to this UNI-T UT181A to prevent the IC being destroyed, as you didn't show it in this video. Great review as I'm thinking of purchasing one.
Buy tools that meets your requirements. Never attempt to modify something that is a safety device.
If you want to search and verify an ETL (Intertek) listed product. Intertek has a public website where you can look up the model or manufacture and see what standards they met. According to Intertek's directory of listed products, the Uni-T UT181A meets the following standards: CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 61010-1 & CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 61010-2-030, UL-61010-2-030, UL-61010-2-033, CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 61010-1-12, UL-61010-1.
As I stated in the video, I am more concerned if they would pass 61326. My confidence is low after seeing the 121GW with an ETL approval.
That was a great video can you please send details about modification of 181a protection from transients.
Have you seen this video?
@@Dextermorga yes i watched the video
Hello Joe,
I am impressed with each of your videos and I can see that you have a passion for multimeters and an enviable knowledge. I wanted to ask how long it takes you to charge the UT181A for example from 50% to 100% it seems to me that this device has a battery charging problem. Thank you in advance
I don't use this meter very often. If I know I am going to be using it, I plug it in the night before and let it charge overnight. It is done when I get up. Eventually the battery will need replacing.
I have one question, from yours experience is it worth buying Fluke 289 instead of Uni-T UT181A? Thank you in advance .
From my experience, based on my needs, it would not be worth buying the Fluke 289 or the UNI-T UT181A. I would rather buy the Brymen BM869s. But I suspect what you really are asking is advice on what meter YOU should buy. I can't answer that beyond, do your homework.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you for the reply. To be a bit more precise, I have already made a decision to take one of these two devices because of their data logging capability, even though I took into account the Braymen 289S, what I was concerned with was whether the Fluke 289 was so superior to UNI-T 181A to justify such a big difference in price, in our country Fluke is almost 3x more expensive.
Great video series Joe. If anyone is wondering where to get the bm869s. Elektor sell them for a fair price on ebay. If you go to their store proper though they want a minimum of 500 euro purchase. In case anyone wonders. It's the only way I've been able to find to get one in Canada
Thanks for your help 🎉
I like this channel and this type of video. How we can fix the problem with the UT data logger?
I guess any problems you have with your meter, I would recommend you contact the supplier. If a product just does not meet your needs, spec one that does? Not sure what else to tell you.
Hi there. Loved the comprehensive view, I have this meter and would like to know if i sent it to you would you perform the ESD mod for me. I would accept this would be at my risk, I am in the UK, please advise. I would also pay any reasonable costs you would charge. Kind regards. Jim
Jim, sorry but I only modify the meters for the purposes of making these videos. I would NEVER suggest making modifications to a handheld meter. Your best bet if you wanted to see this meter improves would be to write UNI-T with your concerns. Personally, I would like to see some other changes made to the meter as well. Maybe one day we will see a rev B.
A top-notch review which educated me a lot. For people complaining about the ESD-mod: If you want an ESD proof meter just get one with the correct cert - If you know what you do - then you can do it yourself - but for everyone else out there - get the right tools for your needs. Most people will do excellent without the MOD because you don't operate in ESD overcharge-prone environments. Also, Joe specifically mentioned this in the end of the video.
I never state that most people will do excellent without the MOD because you don't operate in ESD overcharge-prone environments. If anything I have said how bad it gets where I live. ESD is a pretty common problem. As for needing a more robust meter that is able to survive longer duration transients like I test with, I think that really comes down to what you plan to use the meter for. I would certainly never recommend anyone modify a handheld meter because of the risks involved. If you want to see a more robust UT181A on the market, write UNI-T requesting them to harden it and explaining why you want it. Attempting to mod the meter is NEVER going to be the right answer.
Well noted :)
What is the Brymen meter? Is that the right spelling for it? Thanks.
That's my Brymen BM869s.
I really, really like my 181A.
I will never apply the transients you apply during your testing; but you mentioned the static discharge from walking across a room.
That happens a lot where I live with dry heat in the winter.
My question is:
Can I protect the meter from those transients without doing the major modifications that you did?
Like cutting an extra slot in the board or adding an extra MOV...?
I am 70 + years old but had my own electronics shop for 35 years with a first class FCC License and warranty repair contracts with Motorola, E.F.Johnson, etc...; but my eyes are not as good as they used to be, my hands shake a bit, and I don't have a schematic for the meter.
I have workarounds for the first two problems.
But I need a little help with a schematic and a general direction or a hint as to what actually caused that TI power supply device to fail.
That would be the only 'weak links' I would want to eliminate..
Great video as always.
Regards,
Dennis O.
You certainly should have the skills and education required to pull it off. I am not aware of a schematic for the 181A but you could certainly trace it out.
@@joesmith-je3tq ,
I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my messages,
I won't bother you regarding this subject any more..
It was stupid of me to even ask the questions since in a year or two my kids will be selling all my test equipment anyway...
I really do enjoy watching your channel and can understand everything you do, and why you are doing it..
My mind still works well, but the rest of my body is pretty useless these days...
Keep doing what you love to do for as long as you can; because you never know when life might throw you a curve ball where you can no longer do it!
@@Dennis-mq6or
If you read the FAQ or the comments, you will find your question about how to modify your meter has been asked many many times. Their reasoning varies along with their claimed background and knowledge. However my answer is always the same. Don't be stupid and try to modify a safety device. Of course, I will get the normal, I won't use the meter for blah blah blah and I know what I' doing. This channel is not here to promote stupidity. I will leave that to the other countless channels.
While I appreciate your pointing out the curve balls life has to offer, I am fully aware that none of us come out of this alive. As we get older, our families and friends die in various ways. Some die slow, some fast. Some self induced, some accidental, some natural. Sounds like you are just now coming to grips with this so let me be the first to welcome you to the world of the living!
i was just looking around on the UNI-T sight and looks like on a new ut139s model(the display looks like oled)
it list the certifications for the en61326 as well as the 61010. perhaps they have seen your videos!! lol
Itd be really interesting to see data on an actual "feet on carpet finger touch" static discharge. I can't help but wonder if the grill igniter isn't accurately representing the energy that a static discharge can produce. I'm no expert but I have taken plenty of static shocks and grill igniter shocks (potato cannons dont ask:) and subjectively the grill igniter feels like an order of magnitude more energy at least.
repeating I have no idea what I'm talking about....
Assuming you watched the first 8 minutes of the video, you have a good place to start doing your research on the history of ESD. I also provide the data from the grill starter I use and how it compares with the IEC standards. If you look at the test results, you will see the vast majority of meters I have looked at will pass this test. UNI-T has been a problem. If you watch the videos where I modify a UT61E, you will may gain a little understanding.
Hi, Is there a comparison video between ut181a & ut171c
Maybe. You would need to search to see. If you are asking if I have ever made one, the answer is no. I have never owned the UT171C. Only the meters listed on the spreadsheet have been ran.
I'm ordering this meter/data logger. I would like to modify the Unit-181A are you charging for this would like to get the modification if at all possible.
If you need this modification, then you are buying the wrong tool for the job. It is also possible that by now, UNI-T has an improved design. This video is several years old.
Tell me, is it worth buying UT181? Or is it better to save money on the Fluke 287?
Now how am I supposed to answer that not being you. If you have watched the videos, understand what it is that you are watching, then you should be informed to make your own decision.
Dear 3 months later what did you buy? ut or fluke
Is it because of the charging circuit is fed through the input jacks ?
Assuming you are asking why the meter was damaged, it was because it was subjected to an ESD event.
Hola buen vídeo! Compre un unit 181A la batería se me descarga incluso con el equipo apagado, pensé que podía ser problema de la batería.. lo desarme y verifique la batería y estaba bien.. note que el equipo al estar apagado consume unos 9mA eso hace que al estar varios dias apagado se descargue la batería! Es normal ese consumo con el equipo apagado?
Hola. Lo que describe no es normal. No he medido la corriente de fuga en la mía, pero puedo decirle que permanecerá durante meses sin uso y sin descarga. Medí algunos de los voltajes de consumo y caída de corriente de funcionamiento del medidor. Esto incluye el UT181A. Puede encontrar esa información en la hoja de cálculo o en el foro EEVBLOG.
No es normal el mio pasan hasta seis meses y ni se mueve el indicador de batería, es algo que me sorprendió la autonomía , lamentablemente algo está mal
@@marcelosanti4092 hola gracias por tu respuesta, ya lo pude solucionar desarme y multimetro y analizado el circuito llegue a un condensador smd de una sub fuente que tenía la fuga de 9mA lo cambie y se solucionó el problema! Saludos
Que bien!! Te felicito, éxitos!!
Very nice test. Can you try also Uni-Trend industrial series like UT511, UT195DS or UT171C ?
As I have posted many times, I doubt I will look at any more UNI-T products. I have looked at more of their product than any other and they never perform well with these tests.
I'm also very curious about UT171C...they put it as an Industrial Type. I'm not sure if that means something for a chinese instrument.
Did you make any mods after fixing UT-181A? If not, why didn't it fail the second time?
Sometimes I wonder if people actually watch the videos...
LOL! Keep up the reviews Joe, this is WAY better than any of the normal teardown videos on the tube...
Glad you have enjoyed them.
it would be nice to see what you call a good frontend and why ... useful for any of us that might be designing something of the sort
I have but I can't force you to watch.
Is the continuity on this meter as fast as flukes?
In the description, you will find a link to all of the data I have collected for the meters I have looked at, including the continuity test. For continuity, they are checked several ways.
nice review , if u could do the same testing to sanwa meters it would be interesting to see
I've had a few people ask about Sanwa. I was planning to buy the EEVBLOG pocket meter, which I believe was made by Sanwa but they were out of stock when ordered the two 121GWs.
I will guess that converter died from a overvoltage at the output killing the chip. Simplest fix would be a little more capacitance at the output ( another ceramic capacitor) and a diode to clamp overvoltage from the output back to the input and thus the battery.
Nice tests
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed watching them.
Hi Joe, I bought one of these 181s about 6 months ago. Unfortunately the accuracy is out by about 33% when reading voltage(it consistently reads low). I am in Canada and don't imagine I will get much support from Uni-T. I was just hoping with your familiarity with the board you might be able to point me in the right direction?
ACmV, DCmV, ACV, DCV, all ranges? How are you testing it?
All ranges, I was just simply testing some CR2032s as I was having issues with a car starter. I was told the batteries needed to be at the top end of their charge so I was checking new ones. I just noticed that the 181a was consistently reading low like 2.5 volts for a new battery. I then checked it against me cheaper UT61E and what do you know its reading 4 volts for the same battery.
@@TheCarbonburner So all modes, all ranges are working but you only mention testing at 1 - 5V? How did you verify the other ranges and modes? Or did you not understand what I was asking and you really only looked at one mode and one range?
Sorry no, I just tested a few other batteries then tested a wall outlet in the house here on VAC and what do you know 75 volts and it should be about 120 VAC. That is all the testing I did. The funny thing is this is the 2nd time I've had a problem with these units as the first one I purchased would not read continuity. They replaced it. This new one is passed the replacement time frame.
@@TheCarbonburner That at least tells me that it's more than one mode and range that is bad. From the testing I have done, it does appear that UNI-T products in general do not like fast edge transients, like ESD. Its possible that you have a bad clamp but depending on your skill level and tools available, it may be more trouble than it's worth. If you watch the very last video I posted, I show where I shotgun a similar problem on another cheap meter. If it were me, this is what I would do. Too bad really about your meter. These cost a fair amount and I would expect them to be more robust than they are.
aww. I wish you'd show what you did. I feel like not showing g how to make a hv death box and not showing how to make a DMM more robust are kind of different.
Sadly a DMM can be a HV death box.
joe smith hmm true. I guess I'm more of a not my problem kind of guy but then again people sure do love lawsuits these days...
Imagine someone being stupid enough to modify a hand held meter then actually using. Falls along the same lines of watching these videos and assuming that if a meter withstood a 6KV transient from my generator that the meter should be fine to look at the output of a microwave oven transformer.
@@joesmith-je3tq Hmmmm, interesting idea..... 😉 I'm that someone trying "figure out" how to do that. if you don't hear back from me again, you know what happened and maybe, just maybe I had to follow some other guys instructions who didn't know what he was doing because you wouldn't share or let us comment on your process so we can all improve :-)
Joe,
First let me thank you for the educational video.
I only wish I had watched it a week ago..
I thought the 181 was the perfect meter for me and ordered one of them just a few days ago and waiting for delivery.
I still think it is exactly what I had been looking for but after seeing the effect your low current high voltage thumb powered pulse generator had on it, I am greatly concerned about the long term reliability of the product.
I noticed that the tests in this video were done three years ago and was wondering if the 181a protection had improved over the last three years, (as you hinted UNI-T should have done), to improve their product.
Have you tested any of them recently?
I only looked at this one meter. If you are interested in seeing a brand new one, you could pick up an igniter and repeat my tests.
@@joesmith-je3tq ,
I was actually hoping that your response would have been that Uni-T had worked with you to incorporate your 'fix' into the recent production runs on the new meter and I wouldn't have to be concerned about that static discharge problem.
If they didn't, ....in my opinion,..... they weren't very smart.......
Thank you for the quick reply.
@@Dennis-mq6or I have never been in contact with UNI-T about the UT181A. If they have made any changes to the design, I am not aware of it. It would be easy enough for you to try it with yours. Just keep in mind that you may have a difficult time getting it repaired if it becomes damaged. You may also have to cover the costs. Worst case, I would assume it would not be covered and you eat the cost of replacing it.
@@joesmith-je3tq I was afraid to do the test for fear of hurting my meter.
If only one person does it, I am sure they would have to pay for the repair and the design would never get changed.
But if 1000 people did it, then they obviously have a serious design problem that should be repaired under warranty.
But if they only replace that TI power device, the meter would be returned with the same weak link in it's HV protection.
Are those TI converter devices very expensive.
The best solution for me, aside from circuit changes, might be to order some of those TI devices and tape them inside the back cover of the meter so I can do a quick repair when it fails...
Thanks you,
Dennis O.
@@Dennis-mq6or Not sure what I paid for the replacement parts. I procured mine from Digi-key. I suggest just checking their current price if you want to know. Of course, if you can't solder, the regulator may be the least expensive thing. I've seen people who have no idea how to solder destroy test equipment.
Nice job on the repair, and looks like a good fix.
Time to ask Uni-T for some consultancy work? :)
Thanks. I would not be too surprised to see a more hardened version of this meter in the future.
Great job!
+Ig Saturation Thanks. It was a fun one to make.
+joe smith Hello, can you give email, I want you to send one vesh which will facilitate testing of many components of electronic components in one unit more compact, but it is necessary to modify, the basis is the same as your video, photos can lose?
+Git Up It sounds like you may have bought some equipment that you believe could use to run these sort of tests. My advise is to start a thread on EEVBLOG and post your pictures and information there. I'm sure you would get a few people there to help you.
now the meter is worth $300!! great job
+Don Muscarella HA!! Thanks.
hey been meaning to ask you if you have done any data logging with the brymen? I have the 829 and was just wondering if the software is junk or not. thanks
+Don Muscarella I never thought I would use this feature and did not buy the adapter for it. I think they actually have a document that explains the protocol so you could write your own software for it.
Nice, PRO material, Joe!
Do you plan to test the Fluke 289 with your nice, destructive skills?
I have these skills as well, but unfortunately only one way.
No.
@@joesmith-je3tq
I saw 189 test. Would them two be similar robustness?
@@Pawel5837 Of course to be certain, I would need to run one. Considering how many Fluke meters I have ran and how well they have performed, as a general statement, I would say the Fluke brand as a whole has been one of the most electrically robust of them all. From the switch cycling tests, I would also say they are one of the most mechanically robust brands as well. Download the spreadsheet and watch some of the other videos.
Dear friends I need to repair hioki 2003 3256-50 digital hitester multimeter video. Not properly working.
Does anyone know whether UNI-T has updated this meter at all in the last 4 years since this video was made? I am interested in purchasing it, but I am a bit nervous about its ESD perfomance. It seems that a board revision would be relatively simple for them if it could have been done with a Dremel in the field. I tried to find the certification info on their web site (including downloading the manual), but there is nothing in the manual that resembled the document shown in this video (where the ESD test spec was not included).
love a guy who isnt afraid of blowing up some shit.....lol
U got my respect pro
I've reached new heights.
- First of all, thank you Joe for this most excellent review and for the hardcore ESD test. Watching part 1, I was all excited, thinking that I want two. But seeing the UT181A fail in such a dramatic manor made me think perhaps I don't want two. But all of that changed after the mod. I'll admit, I am not an electronics engineer (yet) but I want to be so I can build my own tube amplifiers and have fun doing so, and for that to happen, certain basic knowledge and equipment is needed. An analog scope and 1-2 decent to good multimeter's and you can mesure almost anything... almost. And in regards to knowledge, that which you don't know can be learned. In this day and age, if you are not willing to pick up a few good books or spend time researching the Internet (its all there), then perhaps you should do something ells with your life, like eat healthy, take a nice walk, spend time with your family etc. I say this in part because I've read through comments for this video and to my surprise, most of the comments are in regards to the ESD mod and I get why, I do.
- Just like many of the viewers, I too were impressed at the level of energy the UT181A could withstand afterwards which made me think I want two again :). And it is here a clear difference appear. Joe, the engineer he is, in part knew what was needed and in part knew why and how. Joe has an understanding of electricity and how it behaves and so do I. I could spell it out for the reader; "If you use this material, do this and that, you too will have a similar mod". But as Joe pointed out: if you don't have the basic understanding of why, then a modification isn't what you seek ... (somewhere along those lines) and I agree. I love talking about and sharing info, its fun. The AHA moments when you figure something out, they are indeed wonderful, wonderful enough to be enjoyed by others. However, its not as joyful if the recipient have no freakin idea why you got that AHA moment ... LOL
- Before I end my comment, I want to leave the reader with something. Something that will take you a step closer to understanding the mod - that is needed in order to make the UT181A an epic multimeter - ESD or Electrostatic Discharge is an uncontrolled event. Its a surge of electrons at random. Just as a circuit need to be closed in order for the electrons to flow, so does the ESD. ESD has an inbuilt ability to close circuits like a switch. If you now watch the video again, all of it, pay attention to materials used and the section were another multimeter is subjected to the 15kV surge, you will see the even unfold in front of your eye's. Not only that, he tells you and show you what materials he use: Teflon and Corona Dope. They have certain attributes and property's extremely desirable in ESD protection. That is it, this is how much I want to share.
- With all of that being said. I can't take responsibility for someone els's actions. I don't know your level of working with mechanical and electrical engineering. I have a background in mechanical engineering, physics and chemistry and I am learning electronics, so there are fundamental criteria's I know and understand. I would also expect that tampering with the multimeter might void the warranty even if it is fully reversible mod, if you don't want to run into the risk of breaking the warranty, don't modify the multimeter. There are other ways of preventing ESD events and they should always be the primary protection (wrist band, ESD carpet etc etc).
- If you decide to go ahead with the ESD modification you do so at your own risk as I will once I have the multimeter's.
Your post hit the spam filter.
I did make a series of videos using the UNI-T UT61E. This meter also failed my grill starter tests. These videos do provide more insight on how to solve problems like this. The playlist may be found at:
czcams.com/play/PLZSS2ajxhiQDrk4o1Y45auwK7LomjnNBU.html
What on earth are my post doing in a spam folder... ;). Yes I did check them and there are plenty to learn from watching them. One of the reasons I wrote the reply was that it is kinda upsetting that people in general spend so little time on actually researching what ESD events are and how electricity behave. It would also be beneficial for people to read a bit about Faraday cage since it is somewhat related. Sometimes its not that you want to protect a circuit or product from a voltage surge, sometimes you want the energy to stay or be stored, the same shield would be implemented there, such in the case of capacitors and like.
I talked to a friend today about your mod - there are a few variants that one can use - and it totally makes sense. Since you know what I am talking about, I don't need to explain myself. I am scratching my head; Why wasn't this apparent before, why didn't I think of this. Its not like its news. But I guess the potential problem never occurred to me, but no matter. You were the one who pointed it out and now, thanks to you, I feel my multimeter's will live a happy life with me. No point in purchasing two UT181A and have them fail over a stupid mistake. In a way I see ESD as human mistakes, at least if you know they can happen.
I subbed your channel :-)
It's too bad that the people who would like to see this meter improved won't contact UNI-T and request it. They are the manufactures. They could improve it in a way that allow it to be certified for both the safety and EMC standards. Make a more scratch proof lens for the LCD, toss in a generic charger and offer spare batteries. Everyone would benefit. It has potential to be a very nice meter.
You are absolutely right. This meter is so close to being the perfect one.
It's the best UNI-T product I have looked at for my use. It's the only UNI-T that actually gets some use here from time to time.
Thanks
I know that you are intentionally vague on the mods, but I'm curious, were they inexpensive? Like, could Uni-T just add a couple small and inexpensive steps and/or replace/add a couple of cheapo parts to get it to be as robust as you have? Is their failing at the engineering level?
Also you seemed confused or maybe flustered at my choice of a Uni-T UT139A in a past comment. I simply wanted a lot of features, accuracy, and a cheap price, for use in low-voltage electronics. I ordered an Amprobe AM510 as well for higher voltage stuff (which I rarely do). Altogether about $80, and now I can take current and voltage measurements at the same time.
Also, I don't know if you cover this in any other videos, but don't the protection circuit components like MOVs and PTCs degrade cumulatively with abuse? i.e. jumping straight to a higher kV might actually produce better test results than stepping through each one... am I wrong?
Finally, you run each multimeter on all of its settings, but some multimeters have many more settings than others. Don't you end up subjecting multimeters to more stress when they have more spots on the switch? This seems especially hard for manual ranging meters. It does seem like simpler multimeters do better in general, which may (only in part; I recognize that it's well engineered) be why the Fluke 101 is so great.
Anyway, I love your videos. Very thorough and technical, no BS, with a focus on safety and resiliency. Most multimeter reviews on CZcams are garbage. Even Dave's are a little underwhelming and seem more subjective than yours.
Thanks for all the effort that you put into them.
I don't work for UNI-T and really can't comment on what their costs are or the goals for their products. You seem confused thinking that I somehow profit based on the products people buy. This data is only collected out of my own personal interest. People ask for advice from time to time and I will offer which meter I am using. I've covered how safety relates to these tests as well as the frontend components degrading.
yeah I don't think that.
I was trying to understand why you felt that I would be flustered over your choice.
What is it that I show during these tests that you feel has to do with safety?
If I clearly illustrated major shortcomings of a product and someone responded with "Great, I'm buying that!" I'd be a bit flustered. Maybe that's not a healthy way to do things.
Also, this could be a terrible assumption, but I wouldn't be surprised if meter robustness was at least partly correlated with meter safety. You push 15kV transients through a meter and it doesn't bat an eye, it seems to me that it indicates some basic level of safety vs a meter that fails.
What you are saying about being flustered would make sense but I think you are missing that I have stated numerous times that I never spent more than $50 USD on a hand held until I started with these tests. I just don't work on anything where I need a great handheld. When I think about safety, I think about what can happen that is going to harm the person using the device. If you watch the videos, you know I use a grill starter to run a sort of ESD test. This has taken out a fair number of UNI-T brand meters which caused people to question just how much voltage it was putting out. Not one person asked what the current looked like. If you look at the video where I tested the grill starter, it was over 10KV. But there is hardly enough energy to feel it at the tip of my finger! Thinking that if a meter survives this without batting an eye is somehow safe makes absolutely no sense. This leads me to ask, why do you feel that the MOVs are being stressed during my tests to where we need to consider the number of cycles?
I ordered a UT181A (before watching the video, hey, I need some surprises). The display looks as great as I hoped. The rechargeable battery annoys me, /eventually/ it's going to fail and I'm not sure you can get a replacement for that battery.
I don't like that once the battery is dead, I can't just swap in a replacement. Mine takes about 10 hours to charge and you can't use the meter while charging. The charger was not supplied with universal AC adapters. The LCD's protective lens is easily scratched. Of course, like pretty much all UNI-T products I have looked it, the meter is not very electrically robust. Still will all the shortcomings, the meter is about the best thing I have seen UNI-T turn out. Be careful with it and it should last a while. I know several people who bought the UNI-T UT210E clamp. So far the switches are having a high failure rate. You may find the battery out lives the switch.
@@joesmith-je3tq about the battery - from the 1st video it'd appear to be just 2x 18650 in series (perhaps with a tiny protection board), you can easily replace it with 2x Li-ion in series. You can even have a fast charging with a little effort. It's quite weird uni-t would cheapen out on the charging, a standard USB QC 2.0 (2014) can delivery 18W, so it should be able to charge in 2h, alas.
@@stanimir4197 2X 18650s?? I suspect you watched some other video and not the UT181A part 1.
@@joesmith-je3tq czcams.com/video/PjNXbKlr3MI/video.html 7.4V (2x 3.7 - 16.28Wh) -- and it appears similar to a shrink wrapped 18650, each 2200mAh. It'd be quite reasonable. However, indeed it says Li-Ion polymer - pretty much the similar but different dimensions - still can easily be built out of two cells.
@@stanimir4197 You can look up the part number for the pack and get the dimensions. I saw a guy post where he butcher his 181A to use a different battery pack.
Hi dear Joe. You convince me to buy UNI-T UT 181A
why in the hell when you gave the first hit, the screen retained the info but there was no display if the screen is oled???
Sorry, I am not sure what you are asking.
Yes, from 0:01 to 0:05 look at the screen, there is info. And it shows 0.0057 (you can see it at the end of the 0:01 second after the hit.
Sorry, I was wrong, the screen is LCD
3.5 Inches 64K Color TFTL LCD (320*240) as you can see:
www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_1557_1042_1042.html
So the only thing that went OFF after the strike was the backlight ;) I'm pretty sure about that.
No need to guess about what went wrong. I explain it in the video but you would have to watch it.
I watched it three times, exactly 12 times the part when only the backlight went off ;)
Did you see in your own video there was info retained in the LCD after the blackout?
Just looked at the UNI-T page and looked at the specs of the UT181a, and in product description, they now have listed EN61326-1. Perhaps they have listened to you and updated the meter if they are now listing the EMC standard. Unfortunately the downloadable PDF manual still doesnt list EN61326-1, so who knows. Ill shoot them an email...
That is VERY interesting. Thanks for the post. Let us know what they have to say.
Nope, to date no reply from Uni-T regarding confirmation of the EN61326-1 cert.
Not too surprised.
Is there anyway you would reconsider and at least show a picture of the mod? I know you cut the circuit board and then installed plastic/Teflon to prevent arcing. I would really like to see a successful mod before I start hacking up my $300 meter. Maybe a private message with a picture? Many thanks!
no
@@joesmith-je3tq I really enjoy your videos. But I have to say it is a huge disappointment that you have an improvement to this meter but you won’t share it with your subscribers. Are you trying to protect us or something? Here is a meter that could blow up in your hands. If may or may not hurt you, I know how to protect you from this kind of occurrence, but I’m not going to tell you how to fix it? Very disappointed in your approach. But it’s your channel. I just don’t get it? If I have a solution to improve or make something better I share with others. It kinda the very concept of CZcams?
@@user-hh4ly2xy6s You will have many disappointments in life. Read the FAQ.
Joe Smith, Love your Videos and the depth of information!
Please though inform us of the required modifications to reduce the sensitivity of the ESD on this meter. This would be very beneficial to the community to improve this meter or as a learning exercise!
I understand there are some safety concerns but I'm sure that a liability statement would go to protect yourself.
This is not beneficial to the community by not showing these mods.
So you love the videos and information I provide but you feel its not beneficial.
From your own post lol "The jist of all this is that withholding education never yields benefits."
So I understand your concerns about the modifications and the liabilities but how about you at least let us know what caused the input of the TPS to fail and what you did to resolve it, no need to state exact positions but just block diagram style or ect.
Why re-invent the wheel!
You may want to take the time to read what was posted again as it appears you did not comprehend.I understand you feeling you speak for the entire community and your deep understanding of my own concerns. You have great empathy. But here we deal in data.
Comprehension certinaly isn't an issue here JOE. You can argue with me all you want but the data is; you know how to improve this meter and instead of sharing with the community ( electronics and meteorology) it appeases you have informed UNI-T and they have scared you with a liability statement. prove to me this isn't the case and share the modifications.
Certainly more than small list of people here let alone EEVBlog forum that would appreciate the info.
It's not an argument. I did not write the comment you quoted. You can make up stories but again it's not facts. I have nothing to prove to you.
Hi. I could not understand the video because I don't speak English, but I want to get UT181A. If you make good and bad comments, I can understand with google translate.
Hello. If you like the meter and feel it meets your needs after reading the manual, then I don't see a problem with it. It's not my choice of meters due partly to the weak design which is typical for this brand but it also has some benefits. Keep in mind, you can't use the meter when it is charging.
Brymen is top notch.
+TheOldmankk I don't know about any of their other products, but will say that the BM869s is! I really like that meter.
+Gregan Dark "i disagree,because it's like a fluke 179 ,
where to replace the battery you must to open the entire meter which got the self tappers of plastic ......."
Assuming you're referring to BM869s, you must not own one and have not done your research. The battery cover is held in place with two screws using brass inserts.
Even for the UT181A, the rechargeable battery cover is held in place with three screws.
Can you post a few pictures of your BM869s?
Excellent reviews and very informative and educational. According to the UNI-Trend web site, they suggest UT181A has passed EN61326-1. You can see that on the logons on the web page for the UT181A here www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_1557_1042_1042.html. In addition, you can download a copy of the certification in the "Download Manual" section for the UT181A and look at the CE certificates here drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4Jyby-tjH5oRDhnTTlrTC0xaDg. When I 1st saw this, I thought they might have updated the UT181A and included fixes for the robustness, but it would appear those certifications date back to November 2014, and thus I assume before the UT181A you got, and thus it might be optimistic to assume 1 purchased today would be any better?? If so, do you think the issue might be more due to high voltage I assume the piezo grill ignitor is putting out compared to what is used for the standard? Or do you think the certification is a fake?
I posted a test report once for a meter and it showed their test setup for ESD. Based on that, I would say it is possible for a meter to get certified and fail the grill starter test as well. In the end, the grill starter does not care what meter is attached to it. It is a very short, low energy pulse compared with the IEC standards. I've shown that as well. I've also shown several meters that were not damaged during this test. It is possible that some test labs will run the test differently than others. The problem with this is it waters down the certifications. For this particular meter, I can only show you what is in the video. I have no idea if the cert would be fake or not. My guess is if I bought another 181A it would fail the same way, like many other UNI-T products I have looked at. I now test at much higher energy levels.
I am sorry, but I can't find the suggestion on the site. I can see IEC EN61010-1 only.
The suggestion? I am not sure what you are looking for. If you are wanting to see the report I referenced, I had posted it on the EEVBLOG site some time back. If you are looking for the 61326 cert the OP refers to, just follow his links.
Hi Mr. Joe Smith!
Sorry for my confused reply. I didn’t want to reply to you. The problem is, I could not find suggestion from UNI-T that UT181A comply standard EN61326-1 on their web site, nor in the user manual, as Mr. Matthew Swainston wrote. Your reviews are really useful for me, because I really consider to buy an UT181A, because she has the on-off button. It is annoying to me turning on and off the instrument by the selector switch. If Brymen BM869 had the same feature, I would consider to buy it. Its robustness and 500000 counts still attracts me very much, but I think I understand what you did to UT181A in order improve its robustness. Hope I am right.
It is not in the manual, but it is on the 1st web URL in my original post if you look carefully. Look at the row of graphics icons at the bottom of the description there is a grey box icon that list the standards that includes the EN61326-1 (you can't do a find because it is a picture and not text). For the actual certification certificate, click on the "UT181A CE Certificate" link in the "Download Manual" for the UT181A and you will be taken to a google drive with 3 documents (which is the 2nd URL I have put in the post above). Clicking on the UT181A CE-EMC.pdf document shows a certificate that clearly shows EN61326-1. Unfortunately I could not find the post about the test setup for ESD because I would have been interested to read the background there, but no doubt I have not looked hard enough. But if I am reading Joe correctly, it sounds like he does not necessarily doubt it has passed some sort of EN61326-1 test. But obviously feels that those tests are not good enough to determine the robustness of a meter. Joes work shows for a range of use case it would appear that a lot of other meters that are more robust on Joe's tests. So I think it is a case of buyer beware and keep this risk in mind for your application and purchasing decision, and after weighing all the pros, cons, price and support in mind. Again, thanks Joe for what looks to be a very objective review.
Excelente video, una lástima que no esté disponible el cómo hacer más robusto el UT181A lo cual me parece algo contradictorio porque con otros multímetros sí compartes ese tipo de información... si te ofreciera dinero, ¿me podrías dar la información por interno por favor?... PD: acepto bajo mi responsabilidad el resultado de las modificaciones y me comprometo a no divulgar la información...
I suggest you read the FAQ.
Links in the comments are blocked. The link to the FAQ may be found in the description.
@@joesmith-je3tq
excuse me... If I make holes in the board to avoid electric arcs and paint it with "Corona dope" is it enough or do I need to put additional PTCs, MOVs, and cut and retrace tracks?
@@sergioinostroza3529 The fact you are even asking such a question tells me this is a VERY bad idea. If you want a meter that can survive these transients, just buy one. If you would like to see UNI-T make an improved version of the 181A, I suggest writing them. The one thing you should NEVER do is modify any safety device.
@@joesmith-je3tq dear Joe: i can't afford a fluke 289 for example, if i had enough money i wouldn't be asking how to make the UT181A more robust, UNI-T will never answer a request from a simple retail buyer, i should be a great distributor so just they consider making improvements to their product ... I have no alternative, I will risk modifying it on my own
to use it in my freelance work and I hope to be lucky and that I hope my knowledge of electronics will serve me
Thanks for video, but dont make cuts, we dont see speed response of the multimeter in real time
Speed response? What part did you not want to see cut?
joe smith every time you change value to be measured, if it takes no more then 5-10sec, you dont need to make cuts in video, it is very annoying by my opinion
Ия вас не понимаю нет перевода
Fluke 289 is more well built than UNI-T UT181A.
eh why is it to make such an expensive multimeter somewhat safe, for the asking price it is kinda unacceptable. Uni-T is always a dilemma of having good features but bad protection and the higher product tier you look at, the riskier it becomes
I really have no idea if the meter is safe or not. They have had it certified by a third party, so I assume it meets the safety standards. It's certainly not very electrically robust when compared to many of the meters I have looked at, which is typical for this brand.
:( aww I like my 289
If I bought a Fluke for bench use, it would have been a 289. It was one of the few Fluke meters that supported AC+DC.
I was in the market for a better meter so I picked up the 289/fvf/ir3000 kit. Plus it came with a free 117 to boot. Thought it was a good deal. Well it was a birthday gift from the wife so can't complain. I'm not professional so but I like it.
I have not ran the 117 but I did look at the 115. That's a very robust meter. The 289 I used in this review belongs to a friend of mine which is why I did not run it. I doubt very much it would fail the grill starter test like the 181A did. That meter should serve you very well. Even though it was a birthday gift, your wife deserves a good night out for that.
joe smith yes she did. Finished lots of the honey do list in glee lol. Anyway thanks for yours videos I enjoying watching them
Thumbs down for not showing the ESD mod, grow up Joe
автор результатом доработки похвастался, а как ее сделать не сказал... тогда бы и не показывал ничего
If you don't like the channel and are here to whine, just leave. It's won't hurt my feelings. You would be far better served by getting an education and learning something.
@@joesmith-je3tq Я не хотел вас обидеть. Я считаю, что канал хороший, но мог бы быть еще лучше. Если вы не хотите заработать на этом денег, то почему не делитесь информацией? Люди были бы вам благодарны
@@John_Ripper_1668 If you really want to see this meter improved, I suggest you write UNI-T expressing your concerns. Modifying a safety device is just plain stupid. I have no plans to ever go into enough details for someone to copy the designs. If this is what you are looking for, find a new channel as you will never find that here.
@@joesmith-je3tq зачем вы постоянно показываете мне на дверь?)) Я же говорю, что ваш канал мне нравится)
@@John_Ripper_1668 Asking the same old question about the changes I have shown and starting the conversation calling someone boastful, don't expect things to turn out positive. If you want to risk yours or someone else's health buy modifying a handheld meter, I certainly won't stop you but don't expect me to aid you in your quest to be the next winner of the Darwin award.
No subtitles No Like
Think anyone cares?
@@joesmith-je3tq Su respuesta es como la de un sinverguenza. Piense en las personas que no pueden oir o tienen una deficiencia fisica que no les permite escuchar los comentarios.