I was waiting for that question 😄 It is 2+2, two gauges are conected together, two gauges for one cylinder. The only reason is to minimize faulty measurement, to have or to get a good average value.
Nice Job, are you doing both the high and low speed sync for your bike, I noticed on my 1400 its very sensitive and small changes in the high speed sync effect power, small turns of the adjuster seem to make big differences, are you syncing at 2k rpm?
Yes, always both. The idle speed was good when i did it that time, but it is really sensitive. Small adjustment can make a huge different. I make the test from 950 to 3500rpm. On this bike i have to do the sync at least 1-3 time every year... i dont know why, but i try to have it 100% right adjusted and i can feel it on the bike when the sync is not right, vibrations...
@@kg9227 OK so you are adjusting the vacuum all the way up to 3500 , starting at 950?,,,do you have any other upgrades on your 1400? I just got my K&N filters, factory pro 1.0 kit, dynatek 3000 ignition and designer clutch springs,,,,,,Hopefully all these upgrades can make this bike fly
its more accurate and efficient to adjust the throttle screw while youre keeping the revs up at 2000 rpms. maybe duct tape the throttle tube open at 2000rpms? anyways nice work
Have done this already a few times, check at least two times per season. I can also use my rpm holder or just use a friend, but no duct tape. I check the pressures from idle to about 4000rpm. So far so good👍
@@marcokurek2654 yes, about 2... 2,5. Dont know exactly, start with two then I check how the fuelmixture burn and after that make fine adjustments, then again check the the syncronizing.
@@kg9227 hey boss I have a 1996 Suzuki vs1400 intruder that I’m trying to tune and get right, I need some tips on making the adjustments. I have a digi sync carb tool that’s suppose to be very accurate. I know that there’s the throttle sync screw at the top and the bottom correct? and then the the idle screw just below the top carb throttle screw. Which do I start with first? Do i start with low rpm tuning just to get in ball park? And then increase rpm’s and tune for higher rpm’s? I tried to tune mine and it’s not half way bad but I know the bike has more potential. Walk me through idk which screw to start with and where to end since each adjustment will affect the next. Please get back to me please and thankyou
Did you only mess with top two screws to achieve smooth acceleration throughout rpm range? My low rpm range feels fine and mid range is decent. It’s when I really want to get on it. It’s not smooth acceleration it lags and then kicks in super hard but very choppy it’ll get into powerband just not butter smooth.it’s really been bumming me out. I have no vacuum leaks from boots. And new spark plugs. Also carbs were just cleaned. So I’m thinking that it needs to be synced but I need tips on how to do it properly. I was going to mess with needles height but I’m not going to touch that until I sync the carbs properly and I’ll go from there. Thanks buddy :)
She is idling beautiful and advances smoothly nice job
She gets more love than my wife😄
Why are you using 4 gauges on a 2 cyl. bike ?
I was waiting for that question 😄 It is 2+2, two gauges are conected together, two gauges for one cylinder. The only reason is to minimize faulty measurement, to have or to get a good average value.
@@kg9227 THAT WAS THE ONLY LOGICAL ANSWER I COULD COME UP WITH...SO I HAD TO ASK
Nice Job, are you doing both the high and low speed sync for your bike, I noticed on my 1400 its very sensitive and small changes in the high speed sync effect power, small turns of the adjuster seem to make big differences, are you syncing at 2k rpm?
Yes, always both. The idle speed was good when i did it that time, but it is really sensitive. Small adjustment can make a huge different. I make the test from 950 to 3500rpm. On this bike i have to do the sync at least 1-3 time every year... i dont know why, but i try to have it 100% right adjusted and i can feel it on the bike when the sync is not right, vibrations...
@@kg9227 OK so you are adjusting the vacuum all the way up to 3500 , starting at 950?,,,do you have any other upgrades on your 1400? I just got my K&N filters, factory pro 1.0 kit, dynatek 3000 ignition and designer clutch springs,,,,,,Hopefully all these upgrades can make this bike fly
No other upgrades
👍
Taitaa olla sama homma edessä omassa intikassa... Senverran paukkuu ja savuaa xD
Tätä joutuu kyllä tekemään useasti.
@@kg9227 Ite ajattelin huoltaa kaasarit jos vaikka pysyis tikissä paremmin
@@Sortovaltias On hyvä purkaa ja pestä ultrassa
@@kg9227 Jep. Pitäs vaan löytää uudet kohot mikuniin. Muut roippeet kyllä löytyy.
its more accurate and efficient to adjust the throttle screw while youre keeping the revs up at 2000 rpms. maybe duct tape the throttle tube open at 2000rpms? anyways nice work
Have done this already a few times, check at least two times per season. I can also use my rpm holder or just use a friend, but no duct tape. I check the pressures from idle to about 4000rpm. So far so good👍
@@kg9227 cool. what did you have your fuel screws set to? 2 turns out for both?
@@marcokurek2654 yes, about 2... 2,5. Dont know exactly, start with two then I check how the fuelmixture burn and after that make fine adjustments, then again check the the syncronizing.
@@kg9227 hey boss I have a 1996 Suzuki vs1400 intruder that I’m trying to tune and get right, I need some tips on making the adjustments. I have a digi sync carb tool that’s suppose to be very accurate. I know that there’s the throttle sync screw at the top and the bottom correct? and then the the idle screw just below the top carb throttle screw. Which do I start with first? Do i start with low rpm tuning just to get in ball park? And then increase rpm’s and tune for higher rpm’s? I tried to tune mine and it’s not half way bad but I know the bike has more potential. Walk me through idk which screw to start with and where to end since each adjustment will affect the next. Please get back to me please and thankyou
Did you only mess with top two screws to achieve smooth acceleration throughout rpm range? My low rpm range feels fine and mid range is decent. It’s when I really want to get on it. It’s not smooth acceleration it lags and then kicks in super hard but very choppy it’ll get into powerband just not butter smooth.it’s really been bumming me out. I have no vacuum leaks from boots. And new spark plugs. Also carbs were just cleaned. So I’m thinking that it needs to be synced but I need tips on how to do it properly. I was going to mess with needles height but I’m not going to touch that until I sync the carbs properly and I’ll go from there. Thanks buddy :)