G Scale Accucraft 2-4-4T Forney Live Steam How To Fire A Locomotive
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
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Welcome to the first ever "bonus" fifth Saturday of the month video!
In this episode, we travel to Santa Cruz to the Fern Creek & Western Garden Railroad to get a tutorial on how to fire up a G Scale live steamer with our friend Trevor Park.
This video was recorded in 2015, so you can see the locomotive before it got its battery powered headlight that it has in the podcast segment that is coming up next week in the November Podcast! It is really cool to see improvements made on these models!
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that was really nice to see in person. the sounds from it are one thing. but the smells, that was cool.
The first thing he should have done, before the Cylinder Oil, and before the Butane, is Fill the boiler with water. If you do the other two but forget to fill the boiler and you dry fire it, say goodbye to your solder joints. Another thing he mentions that's not necessarily true, is to "use only distilled water". Distilled water is nice but not necessary. The Engine's boiler is copper and tap water will not harm it in the slightest (House Plumbing is copper pipe, remember?). Depending on how hard your water is, and how often you run, use White Vineagar to de-scale the inside of the boiler after a few months of run time like a tea-kettle. I've used tap water in all my G-scale Engines and they're none the worse for it. As long as there are no purely ferrous metals in the steam and feedwater systems, they'll be fine. Just blowdown the boiler when you're done (or drain it through the fill plug if there's no blowdown valve) to keep the TDS level down. I'm not saying to use mucky swamp water, (the old Engineer's saying "If you wouldn't drink it, don't use it in a boiler" applies here) but on the same token it doesn't need to be borderline deionized either. (Deionized water will actually leach the silver out of the solder and kill the boiler.) The other thing, Running gear oil. That light hobby oil is useless and runs away as soon as the engine gets hot. I either use Steam Oil or Non-Detergent 140wt Gear Oil for the external running gear as it will actually cling to the parts, and lubricate them with decent film strength rather than just run and sling off.
I use rainwater for my boiler and for the running gear motorcycle cain grease . It sticks very well to the running gear only .
@@rotfai45mm The problem with grease of any kind is, it's not what it sticks to... it's what sticks to IT. Grease by nature attracts dirt and crap that will stick to it, on a bike chain it's no big deal as it's relatively high off the ground and the chain has a guard around it which does a fairly good job at keeping gunk away. The chain is also it's own defense mechanism as it's moving so fast it just flings dirt off of it. Whereas the running gear of a small live steam locomotive is bound to attract lots of unwanted trash from it's surroundings since it's working parts are extremely close to the ground, and they're moving a lot slower which gives foreign matter the perfect chance to hitchhike and stick, which then works it's way into the little bronze bushings and wears them out. Non-detergent oil in this scale is much better since it washes away harmful grit instead of keeping it there where it can do damage. Rainwater is a grey area to use as boiler feedwater, If you get acid rain that's bad news. It's personal preference really. I'm just too lazy to collect it. I've never had a problem with tap water so that's what I'll continue to use.
@@steamandsmoke97 I have a indoor layout so dirt is not a big problem . After long use the running gear is "clean" with light gray oil and grease . A outdoor locomotive needs much more cleaning attention . But my garden is to small for a decent layout and a indoor layout does not take a lot of work to keep in good order and it is safe for "gready eyes"..... I use rainwater because our tapwater has a lot of limestone if I look in my watercooker . So I collect rainwater after it rained for some day's , the rain is than cleaner . Happy steaming from the Netherlands from Peter.
@SteamAndSmoke97 Hi. This is Trevor from the Fern Creek and Western. So in regards to your comment above I have a few things to respond to. You are correct that the boiler has to be filled with water before lighting off. I fire full size steam locomotives so making sure there is water in the glass is like second nature to me. So for someone beginning in live steam, your comment is a helpful hint. In regards to the water, however, I would tend to disagree. Santa Cruz's water supply is primarily ground water and the mountains of Santa Cruz are rich in lime stone. Shower heads and water faucets in our area clog as a result of this. Lime is very hard to get rid of and it builds up quite quickly, even in a boiler (the full size equipment I work on at the local tourist railroad has to use a water softening system to try to get some of the minerals out so I am familiar with how harmful the water is around here to boilers). So I worry not only about mineral build up in the boiler but also particulates clogging up the valves or getting into the cylinders. I think it is much safer to use distilled water, especially in a live steam setting. You are correct that deionized is very bad for the silver solder joints. Finally on the hobby lube, a light machine oil would have been better, but we were out of 3 in 1 at the time of this recording. Also, while the engine itself heats up, i.e. the boiler and cylinders, the parts of the running gear rarely get hot. This is not full size equipment with bearings that can act up and get very hot. I don't like using a thick oil like you are referring to as it tends to get gummy and attracts lots of dirt, which is not good at all for any moving part.
@@TreefrogflagProductions
It seems to me that whether tap water is safe to use or not entirely depends on the area, with the caveat being that if you don't know, don't use it.
We have received a lot of questions about track power and how the track is kept clean enough if it is outside, exposed to the elements all the time. This is another example of one way to make track power challenges irrelevant.
Thanks for the video.
Good morning I just watched your outstanding video. Looks like you did in 2015. I am really impressed for the number of easy to use accessories to fill and maintain the locomotive. Where are you buying that stuff at? Thank you very much Carl Young.
great tips video dan and John, I enjoyed the video
Nice
Very cool
Joe Saurina I know right
Fun fact: that locomotive is the same as the Fred gurtly locomotive at Disneyland
Do have any bigger driver base engines?
Apparently there is no longer a market for these as I can not find one for sale or recent videos. 😢
Accucraft only brings in a set number of locomotives, since these are all hand-built. Once they sell out a production run, they usually will move on to an other model. As I recall, after they built the Forney, they then brought in a Southern Pacific 2-6-0 and have brought in several other models since then (I can't really remember when I got mine). More recently they've brought in some 7/8 scale Forneys, that are coal fired. These do appear on the used market from time to time, but this locomotive was so popular due to its ease of operation, that they seldom come up for sale.