you prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a method to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Moshe Raiden I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I feel like it wasn’t waterproofed well, just caulking in those huge gaps without a waterproof layer underneath. Disaster for mold in a few years or if the caulk shrinks and opens a tiny hole.
All my elders always said "Dead Nuts" I found out later it is actually meant as "Dead Balls" that made me laugh that they did a play on words. I love your videos, you are the John Wayne of remodeling! I am installing a very similar product and your videos are super encouraging and helpful. I think I found something about this install that I am currently dealing with on mine.... The way you set your plumbing fixtures... If you would have set the control valve back closer the to wall, maybe used a half inch plywood spacer instead of the 2x the knob handle would have set more closer to the wall. that is how it is indicated in my instruction manual though they do not make it very clear and have zero data or any kind of measurements to go by. That window ledge turned out beautiful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
What do you do with the showing screws under the window? Leave them, or does something cover/cap them? Same question for the rest of the screws, I can’t tell if there was a capped piece or if that texturing is what covered them all
did you glue the walls to the studs? and in the box there are 2 gaskets both rubber that go on the drain plug i see you only used one on bottom thread?
THANK YOU sir..we have the exact same set up in our bathroom..only difference is that our plumbing is on the other side and we are installing the exact same Delza set
Thank you for the video. Couple questions.... What material did you use for the window sill? Do you have a video for cutting the surround to fit the window? What do you recommend if the installer put the surround in above the window sill?
Go to home Depot or some other place like that and buy synthetic wood and install that with a little bit of a drop so the water will come down and won't stay up there so it shouldn't be level It should drop into the shower if any water should get up there and then seal it super good that way you'll never have an issue and have it extend past whatever surround you have so if you have a surround and it's out 2 in farther than the wall stick that bottom sill out a half inch more than that and then get it all sealed up real good and it'll be perfect as far as cutting this around yeah that's simple you can use a whole bunch of tools but one of the simplest tools will probably be a 4 and 1/2-in grinder with a steel blade attached so it's a carborandom blade It looks like a 1/8 inch or less black material made for cutting steel and we use it for everything and you put it on a grinder and just hand cut it you can of course obviously use an oscillating tool or anything else there's all kinds of tools you can use
No I don't put any horizontal framing in The kind that are installed when you first buy a house have no horizontal supports And these kind are stronger than those kind This is acrylic not fiberglass It does move a little when you touch it I think they would prefer that you glued it to the wall in a bunch of places to make it Rock solid But it's absolutely unnecessary I've done over 50 of these and they're all perfect If you want to take the time to put a whole bunch of horizontals in And glue the snot out of it Go ahead and do it It won't hurt anything But it doesn't accomplish anything either Very rarely do I ever touch the walls when I'm taking a shower And if I did a little tiny bit of flex isn't going to scare me This stuff does not crack or break like fiberglass Once you cut a hole out for like the shower valve Try to break that round disc that you just cut out No chance in Egypt This stuff is so strong
Hi, Video very helpful, was wondering if you had any tips on how to drywall/sheetrock up to the edge of the bath wall like you did... I am doing similar Job but the edges are tripping me up.
Great video; very well explained. Beautiful job on the window. Did you have to seal the three edges of the vertical panels with the DAP product as well?
It is fine to use that product but you don't need it for anything other than the acrylic tub The acrylic tub will not accept any other sealant No other sealant will stick to it But everywhere else you can use white silicone
I just had a plumber install a standing shower only in my basement. It's one of these 3 piece plastic surrounds. I had a few questions. The middle panel (the biggest one) was not properly supported and gives a few inches if you put any pressure on it. Is there any way to support that now without tearing out the brand new drywall and everything else that just went in? I was thinking of maybe some foam or something? Or will the sealant/ silicone I put in the corners be enough? Also, since I don't have a tub and it's a shower only, do I have to use the dap 3.0 for the seams or will a regular high quality white silicone work?
Yeah don't push on it 🥰 If you have good silicone on your seams and it's not a acrylic unit like the Delta 400 then you're going to be fine and it's all sealed in those kind of units usually Flex anyway they're just intended not to be pushed on so as long as you don't push on it it will last you years and years
@@Jonehughes okay great. We're actually getting ready to sell this house and I just didn't want to leave the buyer with some big issue that would end up costing them a bunch of time and money down the line. Thanks so much for the quick response. 👍
The instructions that come with it are not clear on how the end panels will line up at the tub level, so I came looking for confirmation. Thank you for showing this.
So I'm replacing an old polystyrene bathtub wall with a new one, newer model, the walls were sheetrock behind it, big issue with city, there was mold on the back behind the polystyrene so I ripped out the sheetrock and was suggested to me because of the mold, not to use green board but instead cement board, so I bought some to to the job, but I see here you don't have any back, just the bones so the cement board can it butt up to the existing sheetrock and seam it and water proofing the back of the polystyrene, do I use an aqua sealer?
No you don't need to seal it if you do it won't hurt anything but you don't have to go through the expense of doing that just put on all your cement board get all really nice and tight and then install your unit then seal it super well and you're done
Are the sharkbite/tectite fittings push-to-fit or do they need to be crimped? Can the Delta Classic 400 be installed with grab bars? I was looking at the back wall and the curves looked like it might not allow for grab bars. Have you installed any similar units with grab bars? Have you ever installed slidebars for ADA showers? If yes to either of those two above questions, any tips? Do you have any videos that show how you measured/marked for the holes on the wall panel that had to be cut for the tub spout, trim kit, and showerhead? Did you just use stiff paper and lay it across the studs and do the markings and then put it on the wall panel as a template? Would it hurt to put a little expanding foam in the cavities of the tub (where the styrofoam is) and the shelves? (not like completely filled, but just a little to reinforce?) Have you ever installed any of the Sterling tub/shower surrounds?
Yes the sharkbite and Tectite fittings are push on just follow the directions they work perfect 2. yes you can put handrails and you must put backing where you need too you can place backing when you put in the walls so it'll take a little bit of measuring but you should be fine as far as measuring for the plumbing on the wall that's a matter of doing a dry fitting so if you put the back wall on and make it real tight so it can't flex at the top or bottom you can measure right off of that to get your center lines you can measure off the tub or put a level line across the top from the back wall to see where your top on your wall will be on the side and measure down from there so it's all just about measuring you can do this if you put on the other wall 1st the opposite wall of the plumbing wall and get it all tied in real tight dry fit then you can see exactly what the other side which is identical copy will look like and you can measure over based on that also there's a whole bunch of ways to do it I got confidence in you you can do this since you're asking all the right questions
@@Jonehughes Thanks! I'm trying to figure out the best way to do the backing and what sort of anchors would be needed. Since the surround bumps out, would the backers also have to bump out or could they be flush with the studs and then use some sort of anchor with a spacer? Right now we have a fugly avocado green one-piece unit with a cracked tub floor & we want to switch to an ADA friendly white shower unit with grab bars & a portable shower seat and add proper vents. I really wish basic plumbing principles were taught in grade school. So many people don't know about the vents or slope & it's something they could incorporate into math classes-- figuring out slope & distance, angles for that 1/4" per ft slope, etc.
@@mycats7321 If I was going to put a hand bar on the back wall and I wanted it where the slopes were I would hold The grab bar that I was planning on using up against the back wall to determine where exactly I'm going to mount it , then screw through it and then put wood behind it and then screw through that and so actually put up the back wall with the handrail already bolted to wood that is behind it as a backer plate
Great video. Two questions...1) The instructions for the Delta Classic 400 tub & surround have lots of stud placement that doesn't align with my current framing. How important is it that these all align very close to the instructions? 2) For leveling the base, what about using a self-leveling compound on the plywood sublfoor instead of shims?
Hi John using a compound on the bottoms perfectly fine ,mortar or any hard mud like that and as far as studs it makes no difference at all whatever framing you have is perfectly acceptable , just want to make sure you have framing on the front edges, that's usually not the case unless you're taking out an old one that was the same size ,so you want to make sure you have framing on the front edge, on the left and the right side covered, the rest of the stud placement is absolutely arbitrary
Real talk you do not use mortar to stick you use mortar to make it solid so there's no voids so it feels like you're standing on concrete in the same way you would pour waffle mix into a waffle maker to make a solid waffle instead of a partial waffle that's the same way you do a mortar base for a shower except opposite you pour the stuff onto the floor and then you set the pan on to it And that is only if you have the kind of pan that has the bottom that looks like a waffle iron in other words it has a bunch of voids that needs to be filled to make it solid if you have the kind of pan that absolutely is flush it just lays on the floor you don't put anything on it you just lay it down but it shouldn't be on shims or then it will also have voids it literally cannot have voids or it will break down over time
I would like to put this shower wall siding up while keeping the tub we have. Measurements seems to fit. However, we do have a window similar to the one in this video. I was watching to see how you cut it out/seal it up...🤔
The exposed screws towards the top of the back wall. Do you do anything to seal those in or cover them with something? Or just leave them out in the open? Is rusting an issue if left exposed? Very awesome video. Definitely answered a lot questions! Thanks!
Hi Kaitlyn No I only use those to hold it in place while the glue dried I used the same silicone for the whole project to glue it as well as the rest and as soon as it was done I filled the little tiny eighth inch hole right there where the screw was
Jon Hughes We bought a fiberglass tub and surround (well I don’t know if the surround is all fiberglass actually). Anyway, what silicone glue would you use on fiberglass? And do you silicone between the wall joints? And why didn’t you use a plastic vapor barrier behind the tub over the insulation?
I have shheet rock behind tub and walls. If i take it out space is too big. What can i do to finish up the edges. Right now im thinking a second lauer of sheet rock, or accent tile around the top.
Yeah we all encounter things that make us change up what we would normally do you just have to look at it and come up with the best solution you can You got this brother
@@jeffh536 I meant no disrespect, I was trying some sarcastic humor and I had a couple?? beers when I was watching. I thought this was an awesome video and it gave me enough info and inspiration to try and install my own tub / shower when my back feels up to it.
Yeah try to go to Home Depot or someplace like that and buy synthetic wood and synthetic trim that way once you seal it in with silicone or Dap 3.0 sealant Depending on which tub of your installing whether it accepts silicone or the special sealant it will last forever Synthetic is best If you can't put in cultured marble
i don't remember , but every one is different, it'll show on the instruction manual, or just measure your new one to be sure and then double check and dry fit.
Not sure if you will get this comment. I have a very similar delta shower surround I installed my problem is I’m trying to install a door system and the area where the frame attaches is hollow behind and I’m having a hard time finding anchors that will keep it secure to the wall surround. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi Gary They are called hollow wall anchors There are a million different varieties Here is one kind www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/anchors/5466099?store=07367&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjJOQBhCkARIsAEKMtO0sMWw1IGDEJleGotPvp6AnZRs2Ui-577MqIRYdsU2jlD9xtl3hL08aAl19EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I have a popcorn ceiling in my bathroom. I’ve replaced the drywall around the tub and now am stuck on what to do to join the new drywall to the ceiling. Do I need to remove and replace the ceiling drywall? Or should I scrape off the popcorn, tape/mud the joint? Any advice would be appreciated...
Yes every single seam, you want to make sure that they are completely sealed, as though it was a one piece unit Use one ,of only four ,approved sealants, you cannot use any other sealant, they will not stick to acrylic
Gap quit producing 3.0 They say that AMP is the new 3.0 I hope it's as good, I already used it on one shower and haven't heard anything bad yet ,but still it's very aggravating they changed it ,without telling us, but they say it's better and I can tell you that it for sure comes out of the tube easier ,you don't need a hydraulic. www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-AMP-Advanced-Modified-Polymer-9-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-00762/316997383
If you look closely at it you can see a small little L And it's supposedly supposed to ride on that so in essence it's behind not in front but that L is so small that I've never been able to use it I'd just keep it behind there so the apron can't push any farther in You're simply trying to keep the apron rigid I've had better luck by installing two by twos the entire length of the apron and that holds it Ridgid
What is that black foot you put on the underside of that tub? Can that be gotten for a variety of other tubs? I am sick and tired of mortaring or plastering in these soft flexible new tubs that aren't worth a plugged nickel.
Hi Gardner They come with all Delta Tubs, but if have a different brand you can always just "old school" it by screwing down a 2"x 4" in the appropriate spot to keep the apron from moving
What Drain Kit are you using? The instructions say you need a 16 1/2" Drain Kit but I've only seen 12-15" kits. There's another kit that says it's 17"-21" but I believe that's for those Jet Tubs. Any help would be great. Thanks!
If you will buy the ABS drain kit Are you have to replace is the one long piece It isn't a specialty size Any inch and a half ABS will work for its replacement And you are good to go Feel free to ask any more questions brother
I have not found that available , so your best source is going to be manufactured synthetic wood trim from Home Depot or some other source and just put it together like you would a normal window and seal it really well so all water washes into the tub if there was any water to get on it
Do the gaps between surround back and sides get caulked? I could not tell and you did not say. I have a much cheaper 3 piece surround in rent house and unsure if the vertical gap gets caulked where sides meet back. Thanks for the video!
Yes always caulk every one and you want to use pure white silicone the best you can afford usually around $8 a tube get good silicone Use plenty ,don't just seal the gap squish plenty into the gap and do a really good job and you'll never have to touch it again it'll be one piece when you're done
What did you use to trim out the window? We've been thinking about replacing our old crappy tile with a tub surround but we have a full size window in the bathroom. We'd have to cut the surround to fit the window but I'm unsure of trimming it out so it doesn't leak.
Yeah I wouldn't use one of those tub surrounds for that First replace your tub and all the plumbing Then waterproof all your walls With concrete backer board And then install Flexstone wall surrounds Or a similar product And then use synthetic wood and synthetic trim And seal it all real well But make sure everything is sealed before the finishing products go on anyway And the finishing products get sealed With an over abundance of caution You don't want any issues.... ever
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: FlexStone Royale 36 in. x 60 in. x 80 in. 11-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Alcove Bathtub/Shower Wall Surround in Calacatta White www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calacatta-White-SSK60367831CW/304669705
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: FlexStone Elite 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 9-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Alcove Tub Surround in Crema Bordeaux www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Elite-32-in-x-60-in-x-60-in-9-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Tub-Surround-in-Crema-Bordeaux-TSK60326031CB/311687973
I would buy the shower when it's much taller And sitting on a bathtub it would be full height to the ceiling And your window could be cut straight out of it Super easy installation
Yes , Use only the approved sealants Silicone will not stick to this shower system You absolutely must use the sealant they require Seal every single seam When you were done it should look like one piece Super important only you specified sealant Nothing else will stick to this
Jon, I try using this Everbilt ( Model # WO-1-BB-CD) . and I got a RIVER...not na leak. I have to use that type of waste and drain. Any alternative? All I have found are to short in the overflow.. Any help will be very appreciated... thanks...
Yeah all the overflows will be too short for that unit you need to extend that pipe A bunch of different ways to do it 2 couplings and another piece of pipe will be sufficient Or just a longer piece of pipe
We have the same one we are installing now what’s the stick of wood you put in front of the tub on the floor? We noticed the tub tendes to push in at the front
Hi Jessica Yeah it does that It's a stupid design They have a little bar that you use that kind of holds it in place But it sucks too Your best bet is to do what I do Dry fit the tub In other words set it in place exactly the way it will go once it's secured to the studs Use a pencil or a marker And Mark right along the front face of the tub Right along the floor Exactly where you would like the front to be Remove the tub Then take a 2x2 piece of wood that is 4 ft 6 in Long And put it 1/8 of an inch back behind the line that you just made on the ground The 2x2 will hold your tub apron solid and won't let it push in anymore It's easy for me to say But may be hard for you to understand What I mean You can always text me at 541-660-7805 Jon I can walk you through the issues you might come up with You guys got this It'll work out perfect 😀
Jessica I also have two or three other videos that show the same tub installation and finishing of it so go check out those ones first and if you still have questions feel free
Yes exactly brother take real careful measurements and all you'll have to do is caulk between the synthetic wood and the shower wall it works absolutely perfect as long as you make Great Cuts
It will void your warranty though. The only tubs I've seen come with window kits are handicap showers. They are also solid plywood embedded in the fiberglass so that there is backing for mounting grab bars. I would have just installed the tub and tiled the walls. Not much more money than paying for the shower walls and it would look proper
It has an engineered honeycomb structural base It is designed to not need mud if set on a level solid floor But I always do anyway Either mud or foam either way is fine It just gives you an extra layer of security
It all depends on your circumstance in some mobile homes the drywall is 60 in away from each other in a normal framed house it is 60 in between studs but if you have 60 in between walls In your circumstance you may do that you need 60 in between the walls for you to be able to pull that off
I literally never do that I did that to the first one I installed It actually has no advantages but if you want to do that you need to install wood back there that will touch the back of the walls when pushed on and use exactly the same adhesive that you're going to use for the seams which is DAP 3.0 silicone will not stick to acrylic
Absolutely no leaking brother All the name brands sharkbite, Tectite Are Totally awesome I have been using them for years and there is absolutely no leaks They're legal in all areas, underground ,confined...etc
Let me be a little bit more blunt Used Dap 3.0 every single place you are touching acrylic because nothing will stick to acrylic except that... So yes fill every single seam and then all around the perimeter also Anywhere you are touching acrylic Use Dap 3.0 Painters caulk will not work Silicone will not work Nothing else will stick to acrylic
aletoledo1 hi brother I'm really sorry about that that's funny I just finished another one and I didn't show it on that one either and I never show it because it's not pretty you literally just install pieces of trim like a thin paneling or some other kind of trim something to make it solid and flush with the drywall and then you use fix-all to make it perfectly flat with the drywall then you use drywall mud to make it flat again and after a couple of coats of mud you start texturing all you're trying to accomplish is filling up the joint and make sure you use drywall tape for the joint
Hector Casas hi Hector I wish I knew brother I would love to have a whole bunch of that stockpiled somewhere if you Google it you can find some stuff like it but I think bathmasters or something like that have a whole bunch of it and they had it custom-made but I just used the manufactured wood synthetic wood for one I just did and this fantastic stuff also so go to Home Depot and pick up some synthetic wood jambs and trim and just trim it out brother
To do this kind of job what specific tools will I need? I have been wanting to try this project myself but to be truthful I have no experience in this field of work. However, learning will help with home expenses. So I gotta get it going. Especially since it's in major need of a replacement.
Absolutely nothing specific I have seen guys rip the old one out by hand Using no tools but a hammer I like using millions of tools I own every tool in the world Makes the job way easier Sawzall skil saw Screwdrivers Oscillating tool Pliers Levels Screw gun Caulking gun If you have at least these It will go pretty easy If you don't have these You will have to MacGyver it
@@JonehughesI'll look into those tools and begin to purchase them. Afterwards I'll see how it goes by the time I start the project. Thanks for the info.
Hi Nikki you can do it but it will be hokey When I have an existing tub that the customers want to continue to use instead of replace then I use this product from Home Depot its absolutely fantastic Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: FlexStone Elite 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 9-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Tub Surround in Mocha Travertine www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Elite-32-in-x-60-in-x-60-in-9-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Tub-Surround-in-Mocha-Travertine-TSK60326031MT/304669222 SKU# 304669222
You want 60in from stud to stud If you have more than 60 in You can fill it in with whatever you want it's not a wet area that needs to have concrete board
I just looked and I answered you based on what I thought you were asking I thought you were asking about the window trim but if you were talking about finishing the wall around the perimeter of the shower you're going to use drywall mud after applying some shimming to bring it close to level then tape it and mud it
We just got ours done and, unfortunately, it was put in on top of drywall. Since it was done for free by a family member, we are extremely grateful to have a usable tub/shower, but wonder if you have suggestions to cover the flanges. My husband wondered if there was some sort of fiberglass trim while I'm figuring it would be painted wood. Thank you for the video.
Hi Lucy I got a bunch of different ideas but I need to see some parts of it anyway snap a couple photos of the top, back, sides.... give me something to work with and I'll be able to address the situation better Text Me at 541-660-7805
Thank you for the video. Have the tub in and working on the surround. Did you use adhesive to attached the panels to the studs and tub or just screws in the wall? Saw it in the instructions but not sure if needed. Also, super nervous about cutting the panel for the fixtures. Any tips?
Yes you should be nervous about cutting the holes because if you get it wrong then you waste a lot of money and you have to spend a lot more to replace it so don't do that :-) do the best measure you can and then drill a eighth inch hole right where you believe the center should be and put it in place and see if that works if it does work and it's the center of where you wanted to be ,drill the proper size hole and you'll be set as far as gluing the panels I never have but you could it's just that most of the time when I do them and I've done a hundred of them is that the walls are never level and square and perfect so they wouldn't ever really work unless you added wood to them to line up and it's just not worth it once you install it all and get it all in place and get it all siliconed together it'll never go anywhere sure it moves a little bit but not that much and very rarely does anybody lean on a wall once you're in the shower or bathtub so I would venture to say it's totally fine don't even worry about it I never do it
Thank you so much! I have been working on this for awhile...stoping at every point to research. While I am good with windows and siding, interior has not been something I have worked with. I have called a few contractors in to help me but can't seem to get one to take on a smaller job. The tub is in and now I can put the shower in!! Sharing a bathroom with my husband has been no fun at all. Ready to get this done. Of course then it's the dry wall....a whole other learning experience I'm sure! Thanks again!
If you put on great adhesive that could possibly work and I did put on great adhesive but I wasn't going to count on it I just painted them white to match the tub
Yes It needs to be completely sealed, top to bottom, there should be no cracks that don't have sealant on them and it shouldn't be caulking, it should be sealant, the kind they specify which ever ones in the video
Why is the water damage from the previous shower pan on the sub floor not addressed in the video? I would think that sub floor would need to be replaced before the tub goes in.
Hi Nicole there was one little spot on the left that had to be addressed and I did address it before the new unit went in but it was only a little portion and only gone through 2 layers of 7 layers of 1 1/4 " plywood
@@fryloc359 No it was an inch and a quarter total, 2 layers of the inch and a quarter, which is about an 8th of an inch was Rotten, so I replaced those portions with fix all... I just scraped out all the rot and replaced it with fix all
Jon Hughes thank you.. Do you have any tips on working with Dap 3.0? It’s very thick and sticky and gets everywhere .. I can’t use the same tip and tricks I’ve come to learn and use on the regular dap ... any ideas on the best way to apply and get a smooth bead ?
@@operationhotshotinc.6887 No it really sucks the only way to really use it is if it's new if the store has had it for a while and they're trying to sell it because they paid a lot for it then you are hosed if you can find some new tubes it works really gives just like regular silicone you got to find young tubes
Hi James This installation is not optimal What I mean by that Is that there is a large window in place of where the wall system mounts to the wall The perimeter of the back wall gets attached at the flange And the flange has been completely removed Because a window was in its way So there's no longer an attachment to the wall That is my way of macgyvering the system If you can think of a better way have at it brother And then share with us if you will We are all willing to learn
Yeah if it's any worse than mine meaning the windows wider or taller or lower I would just go with a flat wall panel and not use the wall system I use flexstone totally awesome product I order it through Home Depot
@@Jonehughes I bought the Bootz tub and Nextile surround system. I have a smaller window but it's literally dead center of the wall. I was told if I was going with a direct to stud system which I have to remove the window or apply over it but I'd hate to loose it. Or if I wanted to keep it, go with a glue up surround system and cut out the window. I think I'll either do away with the window or if I buy something else, get cement board and use the Schluter kerdi waterproofing membrane keep the window. I don't think there's a way to keep the window and still use the Bootz kit without destroying it.
No you're not supposed to for a couple different reasons first off when they build a house the tub goes in first and the tile is put up to it and then when you remodel you have to do the same exact thing I understand what you're saying about having flooring underneath but if you seal the tub Edge real well like you're supposed to it'll never be a problem
Yes If it will fit Put it in there and see what it looks like If you need to alter things ...go for it You are now MacGyver You are the man Let's do this 😎
What’s the price for this on average? For the labor if I purchase material myself... I’m currently looking for someone to redo my rub this exact same way
It takes time Just to mask off both sides But if you do that And take the time to mask Then you can apply the silicone Wet your finger and running across the face of it While it is brand new fresh And it will turn out perfect Then immediately remove the masking tape And let it dry
I really like how you explain that the products are good but the “installer” or “operator” is more prone to fail! Makes me laugh when ppl say the truth and others don’t get it!
Hi Angel just use synthetic wood And synthetic molding Trim it out like a door or window in the rest of your house Everything is different With every installation So you have to MacGyver it You got this man
Hi apologise for the reference to the plumber's putty On acrylic unit you must use dap 3.0 Nothing else will stick to it Silicon will not Plumber's putty degrades the acrylic You must use dap 3.0 I have never had a failure using dap 3.0
Perfect. Dead nuts. The video is perfect. I love when a plan comes together. Now I can do my tub.
you prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a method to log back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Ty Lane instablaster =)
@Moshe Raiden I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Moshe Raiden It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account!
@Ty Lane Happy to help =)
I watched your video and realized my screwed up life is my fault. But I also learned a lot about putting a tub in. Thanks Dad.
It's YOU!
showing us how to replace a tub, and roasts us at the same time. i assume you went to school with my dad :D
Really great job. I like the way you handled the trim around the window sill.
I feel like it wasn’t waterproofed well, just caulking in those huge gaps without a waterproof layer underneath. Disaster for mold in a few years or if the caulk shrinks and opens a tiny hole.
"If it leaks, it's you!" I love it.
Good to see that there are actually still some cool tough old school contractors out there.
Gracias por el video, l know is a lot time consuming to do the video thanks for your patience and hard work l really appreciate it.
Great Job. I have to replace a tub at one of our rental condos and learned a few things about the drain alignment and surround panels.
All my elders always said "Dead Nuts" I found out later it is actually meant as "Dead Balls" that made me laugh that they did a play on words. I love your videos, you are the John Wayne of remodeling! I am installing a very similar product and your videos are super encouraging and helpful. I think I found something about this install that I am currently dealing with on mine.... The way you set your plumbing fixtures... If you would have set the control valve back closer the to wall, maybe used a half inch plywood spacer instead of the 2x the knob handle would have set more closer to the wall. that is how it is indicated in my instruction manual though they do not make it very clear and have zero data or any kind of measurements to go by. That window ledge turned out beautiful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
you sold me on the delta classic 400. Thank you.
Awesome video and very helpful, doing my own tub installation so this is very useful.
Just put this tub and surround in today. Thanks for the video and advice
Picked up some good tips. Much appreciated
Looks great - Starting mine this weekend - Thanks!
looks really nice!
What do you do with the showing screws under the window? Leave them, or does something cover/cap them? Same question for the rest of the screws, I can’t tell if there was a capped piece or if that texturing is what covered them all
What did u use on the window seal? Dry wall?
did you glue the walls to the studs? and in the box there are 2 gaskets both rubber that go on the drain plug i see you only used one on bottom thread?
Are you referring to the drain on the tub? The second gasket goes on the overflow
THANK YOU sir..we have the exact same set up in our bathroom..only difference is that our plumbing is on the other side and we are installing the exact same Delza set
Well done. Great job on that window. =)
Thank you for the video. Couple questions.... What material did you use for the window sill? Do you have a video for cutting the surround to fit the window? What do you recommend if the installer put the surround in above the window sill?
Go to home Depot or some other place like that and buy synthetic wood and install that with a little bit of a drop so the water will come down and won't stay up there so it shouldn't be level It should drop into the shower if any water should get up there and then seal it super good that way you'll never have an issue and have it extend past whatever surround you have so if you have a surround and it's out 2 in farther than the wall stick that bottom sill out a half inch more than that and then get it all sealed up real good and it'll be perfect as far as cutting this around yeah that's simple you can use a whole bunch of tools but one of the simplest tools will probably be a 4 and 1/2-in grinder with a steel blade attached so it's a carborandom blade
It looks like a 1/8 inch or less black material made for cutting steel and we use it for everything and you put it on a grinder and just hand cut it you can of course obviously use an oscillating tool or anything else there's all kinds of tools you can use
You wanna be my dad? You teach like Red Forman. I love it.
Is the reveal for the window wood? How did you cut the fiberglass section to adjust for the window? Great video thanks!
Had to be a jig saw.
Great video you guys do well.
Nice job. Thanks for showing the finished trim work. Did you need an extra horizontal stud in the faucet wall for the middle of the panel?
No I don't put any horizontal framing in
The kind that are installed when you first buy a house have no horizontal supports
And these kind are stronger than those kind
This is acrylic not fiberglass
It does move a little when you touch it
I think they would prefer that you glued it to the wall in a bunch of places to make it Rock solid
But it's absolutely unnecessary
I've done over 50 of these and they're all perfect
If you want to take the time to put a whole bunch of horizontals in
And glue the snot out of it
Go ahead and do it
It won't hurt anything
But it doesn't accomplish anything either
Very rarely do I ever touch the walls when I'm taking a shower
And if I did a little tiny bit of flex isn't going to scare me
This stuff does not crack or break like fiberglass
Once you cut a hole out for like the shower valve
Try to break that round disc that you just cut out
No chance in Egypt
This stuff is so strong
I want to do my mom's her bathroom is all wood no studs can I install shower walls without having to worry about mildew
Hi, Video very helpful, was wondering if you had any tips on how to drywall/sheetrock up to the edge of the bath wall like you did... I am doing similar Job but the edges are tripping me up.
Measure twice cut once... try some j bead
Durabong
Great video; very well explained. Beautiful job on the window. Did you have to seal the three edges of the vertical panels with the DAP product as well?
It is fine to use that product
but you don't need it for anything other than the acrylic tub
The acrylic tub will not accept any other sealant
No other sealant will stick to it
But everywhere else you can use white silicone
Just to be clear if you are touching the acrylic tub you must use that sealant
No other sealant will stick to that acrylic
What product did you use for the waterproof membrane on window sill, and then what did you use for the window stool?
Your best bet is to go to home depot and by all synthetic wood products
If I buy the walk in shower with the three Walls and base,,do the drains have to line up
Unless you are installing the exact same model (which is very unlikely) then you have to adjust the drain set up to fit the new
@@Jonehughes thanks
Thanks for taking the time to post the video! Helpful to say the least 😁
I just had a plumber install a standing shower only in my basement. It's one of these 3 piece plastic surrounds. I had a few questions. The middle panel (the biggest one) was not properly supported and gives a few inches if you put any pressure on it. Is there any way to support that now without tearing out the brand new drywall and everything else that just went in? I was thinking of maybe some foam or something? Or will the sealant/ silicone I put in the corners be enough? Also, since I don't have a tub and it's a shower only, do I have to use the dap 3.0 for the seams or will a regular high quality white silicone work?
Yeah
don't push on it 🥰
If you have good silicone on your seams and it's not a acrylic unit like the Delta 400 then you're going to be fine and it's all sealed in
those kind of units usually Flex anyway they're just intended not to be pushed on so as long as you don't push on it
it will last you years and years
@@Jonehughes okay great. We're actually getting ready to sell this house and I just didn't want to leave the buyer with some big issue that would end up costing them a bunch of time and money down the line. Thanks so much for the quick response. 👍
The instructions that come with it are not clear on how the end panels will line up at the tub level, so I came looking for confirmation. Thank you for showing this.
So I'm replacing an old polystyrene bathtub wall with a new one, newer model, the walls were sheetrock behind it, big issue with city, there was mold on the back behind the polystyrene so I ripped out the sheetrock and was suggested to me because of the mold, not to use green board but instead cement board, so I bought some to to the job, but I see here you don't have any back, just the bones so the cement board can it butt up to the existing sheetrock and seam it and water proofing the back of the polystyrene, do I use an aqua sealer?
No you don't need to seal it if you do it won't hurt anything but you don't have to go through the expense of doing that just put on all your cement board get all really nice and tight and then install your unit then seal it super well and you're done
@@Jonehughes ok got it thank you very much
Are the sharkbite/tectite fittings push-to-fit or do they need to be crimped?
Can the Delta Classic 400 be installed with grab bars? I was looking at the back wall and the curves looked like it might not allow for grab bars.
Have you installed any similar units with grab bars?
Have you ever installed slidebars for ADA showers?
If yes to either of those two above questions, any tips?
Do you have any videos that show how you measured/marked for the holes on the wall panel that had to be cut for the tub spout, trim kit, and showerhead? Did you just use stiff paper and lay it across the studs and do the markings and then put it on the wall panel as a template?
Would it hurt to put a little expanding foam in the cavities of the tub (where the styrofoam is) and the shelves? (not like completely filled, but just a little to reinforce?)
Have you ever installed any of the Sterling tub/shower surrounds?
Yes
the sharkbite and Tectite fittings are push on
just follow the directions
they work perfect
2. yes
you can put handrails and you must put backing
where you need too
you can place backing when you put in the walls
so it'll take a little bit of measuring but you should be fine as far as measuring for the plumbing on the wall that's a matter of doing a dry fitting
so if you put the back wall on and make it real tight so it can't flex at the top or bottom you can measure right off of that to get your center lines
you can measure off the tub or put a level line across the top from the back wall to see where your top on your wall will be on the side and measure down from there so it's all just about measuring you can do this
if you put on the other wall 1st the opposite wall of the plumbing wall and get it all tied in real tight dry fit then you can see exactly what the other side which is identical copy will look like and you can measure over based on that also there's a whole bunch of ways to do it I got confidence in you you can do this since you're asking all the right questions
@@Jonehughes Thanks!
I'm trying to figure out the best way to do the backing and what sort of anchors would be needed.
Since the surround bumps out, would the backers also have to bump out or could they be flush with the studs and then use some sort of anchor with a spacer?
Right now we have a fugly avocado green one-piece unit with a cracked tub floor & we want to switch to an ADA friendly white shower unit with grab bars & a portable shower seat and add proper vents.
I really wish basic plumbing principles were taught in grade school. So many people don't know about the vents or slope & it's something they could incorporate into math classes-- figuring out slope & distance, angles for that 1/4" per ft slope, etc.
@@mycats7321 If I was going to put a hand bar on the back wall and I wanted it where the slopes were
I would hold The grab bar that I was planning on using up against the back wall to determine where exactly I'm going to mount it ,
then screw through it and then put wood behind it and then screw through that and so actually put up the back wall with the handrail already bolted to wood that is behind it as a backer plate
@@Jonehughes Sounds like a good idea. I'll have to try that.
Great video. Two questions...1) The instructions for the Delta Classic 400 tub & surround have lots of stud placement that doesn't align with my current framing. How important is it that these all align very close to the instructions? 2) For leveling the base, what about using a self-leveling compound on the plywood sublfoor instead of shims?
Hi John using a compound on the bottoms perfectly fine ,mortar or any hard mud like that and as far as studs it makes no difference at all whatever framing you have is perfectly acceptable , just want to make sure you have framing on the front edges, that's usually not the case unless you're taking out an old one that was the same size ,so you want to make sure you have framing on the front edge, on the left and the right side covered, the rest of the stud placement is absolutely arbitrary
@@Jonehughes could give me an estimate on how many bags of mortar would be needed on the tub base to stick it perfectly on the floor
Real talk
you do not use mortar to stick
you use mortar to make it solid
so there's no voids
so it feels like you're standing on concrete
in the same way you would pour waffle mix into a waffle maker to make a solid waffle
instead of a partial waffle
that's the same way you do a mortar base for a shower
except opposite
you pour the stuff onto the floor
and then you set the pan on to it
And that is only if you have the kind of pan that has the bottom that looks like a waffle iron
in other words
it has a bunch of voids that needs to be filled to make it solid
if you have the kind of pan that absolutely is flush
it just lays on the floor
you don't put anything on it
you just lay it down
but it shouldn't be on shims or then it will also have voids
it literally cannot have voids
or it will break down over time
Came out nice, dude. Does water drive in between the seams in the corners? Or do you caulk those long vertical seams?
Caulk everything super good with
Dap 3.0 brilliant white,
Every single seam needs to be sealed
Dap 3.0
great job i havent done one in 20 years thanks for the viedo. luckly i have a plumber all ive got to do is get it in their right
I would like to put this shower wall siding up while keeping the tub we have. Measurements seems to fit. However, we do have a window similar to the one in this video.
I was watching to see how you cut it out/seal it up...🤔
The exposed screws towards the top of the back wall. Do you do anything to seal those in or cover them with something? Or just leave them out in the open? Is rusting an issue if left exposed?
Very awesome video. Definitely answered a lot questions! Thanks!
Hi Kaitlyn
No I only use those to hold it in place while the glue dried I used the same silicone for the whole project to glue it as well as the rest and as soon as it was done I filled the little tiny eighth inch hole right there where the screw was
Jon Hughes We bought a fiberglass tub and surround (well I don’t know if the surround is all fiberglass actually). Anyway, what silicone glue would you use on fiberglass? And do you silicone between the wall joints? And why didn’t you use a plastic vapor barrier behind the tub over the insulation?
I have shheet rock behind tub and walls. If i take it out space is too big. What can i do to finish up the edges. Right now im thinking a second lauer of sheet rock, or accent tile around the top.
Yeah we all encounter things that make us change up what we would normally do
you just have to look at it and come up with the best solution you can
You got this brother
Nice video! I just subscribed. I like how you work! Great idea there notching it for the window and then trimming window!
How did you cut the round holes, can you use a bit for wood?
m.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html
One really HUGE step missed in this step by step guide. How to accurately cut the holes in the wall for the tub spout, shower handle and shower head.
Jeff H also always mortar in the tub if it is not cast iron.
Great lesson 👍. Thought me the drill Sargent way. Good job. I'm almost done .
If you can't cut them it's your own fault. If you got them wrong that's your own fault. If they cause a leak it's your fault too
@@austincurtis636 I understand who's fault it is, just saying that would be helpful to throw into this video as well, but thanks!
@@jeffh536 I meant no disrespect, I was trying some sarcastic humor and I had a couple?? beers when I was watching. I thought this was an awesome video and it gave me enough info and inspiration to try and install my own tub / shower when my back feels up to it.
What do you use for the window sill and around window where you cut surround?
Yeah try to go to Home Depot or someplace like that and buy synthetic wood and synthetic trim that way once you seal it in with silicone or Dap 3.0 sealant
Depending on which tub of your installing whether it accepts silicone or the special sealant it will last forever
Synthetic is best
If you can't put in cultured marble
Jon Hughes, Jon what is the height from the floor to the drain trap @ 12:12 ? Thanks
i don't remember , but every one is different, it'll show on the instruction manual, or just measure your new one to be sure and then double check and dry fit.
Not sure if you will get this comment. I have a very similar delta shower surround I installed my problem is I’m trying to install a door system and the area where the frame attaches is hollow behind and I’m having a hard time finding anchors that will keep it secure to the wall surround. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi Gary
They are called hollow wall anchors
There are a million different varieties
Here is one kind
www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/anchors/5466099?store=07367&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjJOQBhCkARIsAEKMtO0sMWw1IGDEJleGotPvp6AnZRs2Ui-577MqIRYdsU2jlD9xtl3hL08aAl19EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I have a popcorn ceiling in my bathroom. I’ve replaced the drywall around the tub and now am stuck on what to do to join the new drywall to the ceiling. Do I need to remove and replace the ceiling drywall? Or should I scrape off the popcorn, tape/mud the joint? Any advice would be appreciated...
Scrape the popcorn off then mud
Hello Jon, where the side walls meet the tub, does that seam get caulked? Thanks in advance.
Yes every single seam, you want to make sure that they are completely sealed, as though it was a one piece unit
Use one ,of only four ,approved sealants, you cannot use any other sealant, they will not stick to acrylic
@@Jonehughes Thanks Jon, in the video I see you're using DAP 3.0, so I'll be using the same.
Gap quit producing 3.0
They say that AMP is the new 3.0
I hope it's as good, I already used it on one shower and haven't heard anything bad yet ,but still it's very aggravating they changed it ,without telling us, but they say it's better and I can tell you that it for sure comes out of the tube easier ,you don't need a hydraulic.
www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-AMP-Advanced-Modified-Polymer-9-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-00762/316997383
Does the lip of the apron support go on the outside or inside of the tub?
If you look closely at it
you can see a small little L
And it's supposedly supposed to ride on that
so in essence
it's behind
not in front
but that L is so small that I've never been able to use it
I'd just keep it behind there
so the apron can't push any farther in
You're simply trying to keep the apron rigid
I've had better luck by installing two by twos the entire length of the apron
and that holds it Ridgid
What is that black foot you put on the underside of that tub? Can that be gotten for a variety of other tubs?
I am sick and tired of mortaring or plastering in these soft flexible new tubs that aren't worth a plugged nickel.
Hi Gardner
They come with all Delta Tubs, but if have a different brand you can always just "old school" it by screwing down a 2"x 4" in the appropriate spot to keep the apron from moving
Awesome video. Exactly what i want to do. Thanks.
What Drain Kit are you using? The instructions say you need a 16 1/2" Drain Kit but I've only seen 12-15" kits. There's another kit that says it's 17"-21" but I believe that's for those Jet Tubs. Any help would be great. Thanks!
Ah. Cancel the request. I see you had to get an extended tube.
If you will buy the ABS drain kit
Are you have to replace is the one long piece
It isn't a specialty size
Any inch and a half ABS will work for its replacement
And you are good to go
Feel free to ask any more questions brother
Stupid spell checker
All you have to replace is the one piece
What did you use for the trim around the window?
I have not found that available ,
so your best source is going to be manufactured synthetic wood trim from Home Depot or some other source and just put it together like you would a normal window and seal it really well so all water washes into the tub if there was any water to get on it
Do the gaps between surround back and sides get caulked? I could not tell and you did not say. I have a much cheaper 3 piece surround in rent house and unsure if the vertical gap gets caulked where sides meet back. Thanks for the video!
Yes always caulk every one and you want to use pure white silicone the best you can afford usually around $8 a tube get good silicone
Use plenty ,don't just seal the gap squish plenty into the gap and do a really good job and you'll never have to touch it again it'll be one piece when you're done
@@Jonehughes Thanks Jon!
What did you use to trim out the window? We've been thinking about replacing our old crappy tile with a tub surround but we have a full size window in the bathroom. We'd have to cut the surround to fit the window but I'm unsure of trimming it out so it doesn't leak.
Yeah I wouldn't use one of those tub surrounds for that
First
replace your tub and all the plumbing
Then waterproof all your walls
With concrete backer board
And then install
Flexstone wall surrounds
Or a similar product
And then use synthetic wood and synthetic trim
And seal it all real well
But make sure everything is sealed before the finishing products go on anyway
And the finishing products get sealed
With an over abundance of caution
You don't want any issues.... ever
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
FlexStone Royale 36 in. x 60 in. x 80 in. 11-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Alcove Bathtub/Shower Wall Surround in Calacatta White
www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calacatta-White-SSK60367831CW/304669705
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
FlexStone Elite 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 9-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Alcove Tub Surround in Crema Bordeaux
www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Elite-32-in-x-60-in-x-60-in-9-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Tub-Surround-in-Crema-Bordeaux-TSK60326031CB/311687973
I would buy the shower when it's much taller
And sitting on a bathtub it would be full height to the ceiling
And your window could be cut straight out of it
Super easy installation
www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Building-Products-Actual-0-75-in-x-3-5-in-x-12-ft-Common-Board-PVC-Board/50092312?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-mlw-_-google-_-lia-_-122-_-exteriortrim-_-50092312-_-0&store_code=248&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuJz3BRDTARIsAMg-HxXP2IW3NnW2mOrsHtltYBHv-qaBSvCskAnZjOhBq78smM6U0jJ7iRAaAj2yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Did you caulk between the side panels and the tub?
Yes ,
Use only the approved sealants
Silicone will not stick to this shower system
You absolutely must use the sealant they require
Seal every single seam
When you were done
it should look like one piece
Super important
only you specified sealant
Nothing else will stick to this
I enjoyed your vid!
Jon, I try using this Everbilt ( Model # WO-1-BB-CD) . and I got a RIVER...not na leak. I have to use that type of waste and drain. Any alternative? All I have found are to short in the overflow..
Any help will be very appreciated... thanks...
Yeah all the overflows will be too short for that unit
you need to extend that pipe
A bunch of different ways to do it
2 couplings and another piece of pipe
will be sufficient
Or just a longer piece of pipe
I can't extend the pipe because the shut off doesn't reach!
Thank you so much for your help.
We have the same one we are installing now what’s the stick of wood you put in front of the tub on the floor? We noticed the tub tendes to push in at the front
Hi Jessica
Yeah it does that
It's a stupid design
They have a little bar that you use that kind of holds it in place
But it sucks too
Your best bet is to do what I do
Dry fit the tub
In other words
set it in place
exactly the way it will go
once it's secured to the studs
Use a pencil or a marker
And Mark right along the front face of the tub
Right along the floor
Exactly where you would like the front to be
Remove the tub
Then take a 2x2 piece of wood
that is 4 ft 6 in Long
And put it 1/8 of an inch back behind the line
that you just made on the ground
The 2x2 will hold your tub apron solid
and won't let it push in anymore
It's easy for me to say
But may be hard for you to understand
What I mean
You can always text me at 541-660-7805
Jon
I can walk you through the issues
you might come up with
You guys got this
It'll work out perfect 😀
Jessica I also have two or three other videos that show the same tub installation and finishing of it
so go check out those ones first and if you still have questions feel free
i wasnt sure what to do with a window cut out, u cut it with a grinder and then made a sill correct?
Yes exactly brother take real careful measurements and all you'll have to do is caulk between the synthetic wood and the shower wall it works absolutely perfect as long as you make Great Cuts
It will void your warranty though. The only tubs I've seen come with window kits are handicap showers. They are also solid plywood embedded in the fiberglass so that there is backing for mounting grab bars. I would have just installed the tub and tiled the walls. Not much more money than paying for the shower walls and it would look proper
Do you have to put mud on bottom of tub or just set it in and nail ?
It has an engineered honeycomb structural base
It is designed to not need mud if set on a level solid floor
But I always do anyway
Either mud or foam either way is fine
It just gives you an extra layer of security
Does the tub have to be recessed back into the wall like that? Or can I put it right on top of the drywall
It all depends on your circumstance
in some mobile homes
the drywall is 60 in away from each other
in a normal framed house
it is 60 in between studs
but if you have 60 in between walls
In your circumstance
you may do that
you need 60 in between the walls for you to be able to pull that off
@@Jonehughes thank you !
What did you use to glue the panels to the studs
I literally never do that
I did that to the first one I installed
It actually has no advantages
but if you want to do that
you need to install wood back there that will touch the back of the walls when pushed on and use exactly the same adhesive that you're going to use for the seams
which is DAP 3.0
silicone will not stick to acrylic
so u haven't had any problem with sharkbites leaking? I'm still reluctant to use those in inaccessible locations.
Absolutely no leaking brother
All the name brands sharkbite, Tectite
Are Totally awesome
I have been using them for years and there is absolutely no leaks They're legal in all areas, underground ,confined...etc
typically no issues with copper to brass shark bites except in colder climates PEX with shark bites work best in colder climates
ive used shark bites on pex in my home and they have held up to a few texas summers so far, they work great.
Why use shark bites on pex. You can buy pex fittings for an 1/8th of the cost of shark bites.
Just to clarify, you use the Dap 3.0 to fill in the gaps where the tub and wall pieces fit together right?
Let me be a little bit more blunt
Used Dap 3.0 every single place you are touching acrylic
because nothing will stick to acrylic
except that...
So yes
fill every single seam
and then all around the perimeter also
Anywhere you are touching acrylic
Use Dap 3.0
Painters caulk will not work
Silicone will not work
Nothing else will stick to acrylic
@@Jonehughes thank you! I'm currently installing one now for someone. I appreciate the info
And just so there's
no misunderstandings
Truly it's the last thing you do
after painting
Seal every seam and seal around the entire perimeter
I put the exact same one in. I wish you had shown the drywall part though. I assume you put something in before the texture.
aletoledo1 hi brother I'm really sorry about that
that's funny I just finished another one and I didn't show it on that one either and I never show it because it's not pretty you literally just install pieces of trim like a thin paneling or some other kind of trim something to make it solid and flush with the drywall and then you use fix-all to make it perfectly flat with the drywall then you use drywall mud to make it flat again and after a couple of coats of mud you start texturing all you're trying to accomplish is filling up the joint and make sure you use drywall tape for the joint
That's the same problem I am having right now making the dry wall and walls line up wondering what to do
Theres lots of people who dont crack fill or tape behind the tub surround
What the trim you put around the window and where I can get it
Hector Casas hi Hector I wish I knew brother I would love to have a whole bunch of that stockpiled somewhere if you Google it you can find some stuff like it but I think bathmasters or something like that have a whole bunch of it and they had it custom-made but I just used the manufactured wood synthetic wood for one I just did and this fantastic stuff also so go to Home Depot and pick up some synthetic wood jambs and trim and just trim it out brother
@@Jonehughes Your just like me, I figure it out! Good job!
@@FBiTOPDOG 😃
To do this kind of job what specific tools will I need? I have been wanting to try this project myself but to be truthful I have no experience in this field of work. However, learning will help with home expenses. So I gotta get it going. Especially since it's in major need of a replacement.
Absolutely nothing specific
I have seen guys rip the old one out by hand
Using no tools but a hammer
I like using millions of tools
I own every tool in the world
Makes the job way easier
Sawzall
skil saw
Screwdrivers
Oscillating tool
Pliers
Levels
Screw gun
Caulking gun
If you have at least these
It will go pretty easy
If you don't have these
You will have to MacGyver it
@@JonehughesI'll look into those tools and begin to purchase them. Afterwards I'll see how it goes by the time I start the project. Thanks for the info.
If you have any issues
let me know
I'll walk you through anything
Brother
Hi Jon, do you think I can use this surround on a cast iron tub? Thanks!
Hi Nikki
you can do it
but it will be hokey
When I have an existing tub
that the customers want to continue to use instead of replace
then I use this product from Home Depot its absolutely fantastic
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
FlexStone Elite 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 9-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Tub Surround in Mocha Travertine
www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Elite-32-in-x-60-in-x-60-in-9-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Tub-Surround-in-Mocha-Travertine-TSK60326031MT/304669222
SKU# 304669222
@@Jonehughes Sounds Good! Thank you!
pretty damn informative. I am looking forward to knocking that out this weekend! DEAD NUTS!
Can I have drywall or cement board behind this enclosure because without it the dimensions are to big?
You want 60in from stud to stud
If you have more than 60 in
You can fill it in with whatever you want it's not a wet area that needs to have concrete board
Very well done!
I am just about to be installing one of these within the next month
Remember, if it leaks....it's your fault..lol.
Where did you purchase the window trim
I no longer have access to it
but I go to Home Depot and buy synthetic wood and trim
What did you use to cover the trim I’ve the shower wall
Synthetic wood from home Depot like 1 by 8
or 1 by 6
or 1 by 4
whatever you need
I just looked and I answered you based on what I thought you were asking I thought you were asking about the window trim but if you were talking about finishing the wall around the perimeter of the shower you're going to use drywall mud after applying some shimming to bring it close to level then tape it and mud it
We just got ours done and, unfortunately, it was put in on top of drywall. Since it was done for free by a family member, we are extremely grateful to have a usable tub/shower, but wonder if you have suggestions to cover the flanges. My husband wondered if there was some sort of fiberglass trim while I'm figuring it would be painted wood. Thank you for the video.
Hi Lucy I got a bunch of different ideas but I need to see some parts of it
anyway
snap a couple photos of the top, back, sides.... give me something to work with and I'll be able to address the situation better Text Me at 541-660-7805
Thank you for the video. Have the tub in and working on the surround. Did you use adhesive to attached the panels to the studs and tub or just screws in the wall? Saw it in the instructions but not sure if needed. Also, super nervous about cutting the panel for the fixtures. Any tips?
Yes you should be nervous about cutting the holes because if you get it wrong then you waste a lot of money and you have to spend a lot more to replace it so don't do that :-) do the best measure you can and then drill a eighth inch hole right where you believe the center should be and put it in place and see if that works if it does work and it's the center of where you wanted to be ,drill the proper size hole and you'll be set as far as gluing the panels I never have but you could it's just that most of the time when I do them and I've done a hundred of them is that the walls are never level and square and perfect so they wouldn't ever really work unless you added wood to them to line up and it's just not worth it once you install it all and get it all in place and get it all siliconed together it'll never go anywhere sure it moves a little bit but not that much and very rarely does anybody lean on a wall once you're in the shower or bathtub so I would venture to say it's totally fine don't even worry about it I never do it
Thank you so much! I have been working on this for awhile...stoping at every point to research. While I am good with windows and siding, interior has not been something I have worked with. I have called a few contractors in to help me but can't seem to get one to take on a smaller job. The tub is in and now I can put the shower in!! Sharing a bathroom with my husband has been no fun at all. Ready to get this done. Of course then it's the dry wall....a whole other learning experience I'm sure! Thanks again!
I like what you did around the window seal it came out nice. The only concern I’d have is how to hide the three pan-head screws shining through.
If you put on great adhesive
that could possibly work
and I did put on great adhesive
but I wasn't going to count on it
I just painted them white to match the tub
“It never leaks between! There’s no leaking between! People just don’t know what their doing!” Lol
Do you put caulk on the corners from top to bottom?
Yes It needs to be completely sealed, top to bottom, there should be no cracks that don't have sealant on them and it shouldn't be caulking, it should be sealant, the kind they specify which ever ones in the video
@@Jonehughes ok great thank you! Dap 3.0
@@darrinbrust7285 Hi Darrin,
make sure you find a really young tube as soon as those things get old, they're really hard to work...
Ace job!Thanks for the no bullshit instructions.
It would be helpful to show the method for measuring where to cut the hole for the penetrations. This to me is the most critical part!
Harsh...:) But i think you proved your point. And yes you are right! if something goes wrong it's the installer's fault!!! haha love it!
Why is the water damage from the previous shower pan on the sub floor not addressed in the video? I would think that sub floor would need to be replaced before the tub goes in.
Hi Nicole there was one little spot on the left that had to be addressed and I did address it before the new unit went in but it was only a little portion and only gone through 2 layers of 7 layers of 1 1/4 " plywood
@@Jonehughes The floor was over 8 inches thick?
@@fryloc359 No it was an inch and a quarter total,
2 layers of the inch and a quarter, which is about an 8th of an inch was Rotten, so I replaced those portions with fix all... I just scraped out all the rot and replaced it with fix all
Ok it was worded strange then.
Did you caulk when installing panels ?
Always....
Fill every single crack with good sealant ,don't spare any expense,
this is the weak link in all systems
Jon Hughes thank you..
Do you have any tips on working with Dap 3.0? It’s very thick and sticky and gets everywhere ..
I can’t use the same tip and tricks I’ve come to learn and use on the regular dap ... any ideas on the best way to apply and get a smooth bead ?
@@operationhotshotinc.6887 No it really sucks the only way to really use it is if it's new if the store has had it for a while and they're trying to sell it because they paid a lot for it then you are hosed if you can find some new tubes it works really gives just like regular silicone you got to find young tubes
How did u cut the shower wall panel where the windows at with what tool and how was it done ?
I use a 4 inch grinder with a metal cut off blade
www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-1-2-half-inch-cut-off-wheels-for-metal-45430.html
www.platotou.com/dewalt-dcg414t2-flexvolt-60v-max-cordless-lithium-ion-4-1-2-in-6-in-grinder-with-batteries?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKrxBRDHARIsAKCzn8y1wK9syy_IjuiHBrwKnKsV_YChu96rnrwuesp7ban5QNPO4XJjauMaAg8LEALw_wcB
What tool is used to cut the surroud tile to fit the window.
czcams.com/video/od0OhUsr0jA/video.html
What about the exposed screws around the window?
Hi James
This installation is not optimal
What I mean by that
Is that there is a large window in place of where the wall system mounts to the wall
The perimeter of the back wall gets attached at the flange
And the flange has been completely removed
Because a window was in its way
So there's no longer an attachment to the wall
That is my way of macgyvering the system
If you can think of a better way
have at it brother
And then
share with us if you will
We are all willing to learn
What happens if you have a window "dead nuts" in the middle? Anyway to keep the windown without completely destroying the wall system?
Yeah if it's any worse than mine
meaning
the windows wider
or taller
or lower
I would just go with a flat wall panel and not use the wall system
I use flexstone totally awesome product
I order it through Home Depot
@@Jonehughes I bought the Bootz tub and Nextile surround system. I have a smaller window but it's literally dead center of the wall. I was told if I was going with a direct to stud system which I have to remove the window or apply over it but I'd hate to loose it. Or if I wanted to keep it, go with a glue up surround system and cut out the window. I think I'll either do away with the window or if I buy something else, get cement board and use the Schluter kerdi waterproofing membrane keep the window. I don't think there's a way to keep the window and still use the Bootz kit without destroying it.
Yeah I think you are correct
aren't you supposed to put the tub on the tile? so it's inclided towards the tub wall such as water won't drain to the floor?
No you're not supposed to for a couple different reasons first off when they build a house the tub goes in first and the tile is put up to it and then when you remodel you have to do the same exact thing I understand what you're saying about having flooring underneath but if you seal the tub Edge real well like you're supposed to it'll never be a problem
No, because the tub is made with a slope on the inside of it to drain out the water properly
I bought this same tub surround. Can I install it around our old tub?
Yes
If it will fit
Put it in there and see what it looks like
If you need to alter things ...go for it
You are now MacGyver
You are the man
Let's do this 😎
Thnx a bunch, I was wondering if anyone cut out around window. That's what I need to do if I still what to keep my window lol.
Ya I wanna know how to cut it.
What’s the price for this on average? For the labor if I purchase material myself... I’m currently looking for someone to redo my rub this exact same way
$1,500 to $2,000 is what I charge for labor
Of course you can just "man up"
and do this thing yourself
I can walk you through any steps
You got this 👍
How would you finish the base of the tub where it meets the floor tile?
In this situation it was mortar first and then siliconed when it was dry
Thanks! Never had luck making the silicone esthetically pleasing. Guess I’ll just have to practice!
It takes time
Just to mask off both sides
But if you do that
And take the time to mask
Then you can apply the silicone
Wet your finger and running across the face of it
While it is brand new fresh
And it will turn out perfect
Then immediately remove the masking tape
And let it dry
Also make sure you use dap 3.0 bathroom sealant ,not silicone,
Silicone will not stick to an acrylic tub
I really like how you explain that the products are good but the “installer” or “operator” is more prone to fail! Makes me laugh when ppl say the truth and others don’t get it!
How do you finish the window cut out ends..
Hi Angel
just use synthetic wood
And synthetic molding
Trim it out like a door or window in the rest of your house
Everything is different
With every installation
So you have to MacGyver it
You got this man
Am I wrong..? It seems like you say use dap 3.0 and it can’t leak, but then you use plumbers putty instead?
Hi apologise for the reference to the plumber's putty
On acrylic unit you must use dap 3.0
Nothing else will stick to it
Silicon will not
Plumber's putty degrades the acrylic
You must use dap 3.0
I have never had a failure using dap 3.0
Jon what would the labor be to install one of these? I now have a one piece shower and bathtub on a concrete slab house. Thanks.
On average I charge approximately $2,000 to install one, give or take, depending on particulars.
Can I cut 1/2 inch off of the lip with a power saw? Or will it shatter or crack?
If you are careful it should be fine