Completely agree with you, insulated backer board is my preference. I like the B&Q ‘q board’ as it comes in 2400 x 600 sheets as opposed to some which are only 1200x 600
To cut 12mm Hardibacker I use their "score and snap" carbide knife. I use a 2 metre long piece of 30x30x3mm aluminium angle as a straight edge and score the cut line on both sides between 4 and 6 times. Then I put the ally piece on the ground to make a prism, balance the board on it, step on one side and slowly lower my foot on the other side. Although you still need to use an angle grinder if your cutting little bits off the end with at least a half-respirator mask should be used given the dust can be harmful. I use the STS "Mega Strength Adhesive" which works really well; it expands to fill any gaps. Keep up the great videos :)
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I saw a video with a very simple idea for cutting a large (about 120mm dia) hole in a fibre cement sheet simply using a strip of ply and two woodscrews. With the screws in the ply spaced by the desired radius he screwed one screw in to the centre of the required hole and progressively extended the other screw out from the bottom of the ply as he scored round the circle. Not as quick as a hole saw but no dust and quick enough for a DIY job for a fraction of the cost.
Just removing old saturated cement backer from our bathroom, we had black mould forming, previous person installed it before didn't use any SPR/Waterproofing, just dot/dabbed the board onto what seems to be a concrete screed of about 15mm (no studs), now getting the insulated type and starting again with it all.
I use the 12mm foam board on internal tiled partitions and 20mm foam board on solid external stone walls. I use a PU foam adhesive for both, screw fixing is not necessary. Having solid stone walls I use this on all my window reveals to eliminate cold spots. £10.78 a sheet if you buy a half pallet (40 20mm sheets)
I have a couple of questions regarding fixings into the backer board. For relatively light fittings (soap trays, vertical shower-head rails, etc) do you find the foam backer board gives enough grip with, say wall-plugs and stainless screws into just the backer or do you have to arrange for the studding in the right place to carry them? Also, when it comes to retrofitting grab rails etc that require a high load carrying capability would the board be able to take the tightening load if one was to, say fix resin sockets back into the brickwork. ( I ask because I don't want to clutter the wet room with grab rails while I'm still fit and healthy but can see I might want to fit them in my dotage) Any thoughts would be appreciated - thanks.
Good question, I knew where all my fixings were going, so made sure there was a stud behind. If you’re expecting to put lots of fixings in at some point, but not sure where, you could put a sheet of 18mm OSB behind the backer board. The backer board is water proof, so the OSB won’t get wet. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Many thanks for the reply. The idea of using OSB is very interesting. I was starting to think about using Hardie or one of the other fibre-cement boards but that idea gives me another option.
Nice video. I'm looking at doing something similar. For the uneven walls (such as unplastered brick), the jacko video shows 'hammer in' fixings instead of your plug, disk & screw method, where they dot & dab behind a pre-drilled hole. Just wondered why you were not going to use that method please?
Thank you! I think either would work fine, but the boards aren’t that dense, so you need the big disks really. I would recommend not doing the fixing until the adhesive is dry as otherwise you’ll end up not level. Thanks for watching!
Very kind of you to say so! The insulated board is branded Jackoboard, but I think there are a number of brands which are probably exactly the same product, so whatever is cheapest is probably best. I wouldn’t use it on a ceiling, plasterboard and some good paint suitable for a bathroom will be just fine. Thanks for watching!
Sorry I’m not sure, i expect manufacturers websites will say the rating. 600 centres is quite big for a shower, you could consider a sheet of osb under the backer board for strength or add more studs. Thanks for watching!
I haven’t noticed any difference other than the colour, seems just as dense and I’ve seen plenty of people on CZcams using the purple type unbranded. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I only ask as I was told to use Wedi - termed waterproof against the bath and shower areas and use the termed water resistant Jackoboard elsewhere. I suppose the next question is what have you done for the floor and ceiling - Cement board or Schlutter?
I think it is personal preference, but I’m by no means an expert! I’ll be using tanking tape on the joints and screw holes anyway. For the floor I’ve used mapei self levelling screed, which I’ll then use tanking paint over as I’m not tiling the floor. I’ve decided to use click lock vinyl for the floor rather than tile, so it will just sit on top. The flooring im using is rated for bathrooms, the tanking paint is just belt and braces.
I’m a tile bathroom guy, he used the wrong screws. Those screws are going to act as an anode cathode and cause rust behind tile, which will cause tiles to crack as rust on his “stainless steel” screws develops. Water hardness is going to accelerate the issue. He needed polyurethane end caps on his nails, this shower is going to fail in 2 years and the tiles are going to crack then cave in. Otherwise nice job.
All the screws are covered with tanking membrane anyway, so very unlikely they’ll ever get wet. Why do you put stainless steel screws in quotation marks haha, do you not believe they are stainless steel? Salty water with a water softener would be more of a rust concern than hard water. My electrochemical knowledge is only what I recall from my A levels, but I would have thought the wood studs would be a sufficient insulator to stop any flow of electrons, so I’m not worried. I’ll be very disappointed if this shower only lasts two years!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 yes, wood is a impedance, but the flow of electrons in humidity changes the impedance and acts as conduit for flow of electrons. Membrane doesn’t help, it traps the moisture and accelerates the process, I made original post with assumption you put the membrane on which is why it accelerates it as it never dries. Polyurethane coated screws are the way to go, stainless steel doesn’t mean anything. They will rust especially when acting as an anode and cathode with the alkalinity of the adhesives used. You have highly negative charges on the boards which is why you don’t want any moisture on stainless steel. It’s going to corrode in that environment.
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759The tiles will be fine. Once you add tanking tape and membrane there is no water going anywhere. It makes you wonder how all these old houses are still standing when they didn’t use polyurethane cathode anode screws. 😂
Completely agree with you, insulated backer board is my preference. I like the B&Q ‘q board’ as it comes in 2400 x 600 sheets as opposed to some which are only 1200x 600
Good point! Thanks for watching!
To cut 12mm Hardibacker I use their "score and snap" carbide knife. I use a 2 metre long piece of 30x30x3mm aluminium angle as a straight edge and score the cut line on both sides between 4 and 6 times. Then I put the ally piece on the ground to make a prism, balance the board on it, step on one side and slowly lower my foot on the other side. Although you still need to use an angle grinder if your cutting little bits off the end with at least a half-respirator mask should be used given the dust can be harmful. I use the STS "Mega Strength Adhesive" which works really well; it expands to fill any gaps. Keep up the great videos :)
Great idea, thanks for sharing! Yeah the dust isn’t great from cutting these boards, definitely needs a mask! Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I saw a video with a very simple idea for cutting a large (about 120mm dia) hole in a fibre cement sheet simply using a strip of ply and two woodscrews. With the screws in the ply spaced by the desired radius he screwed one screw in to the centre of the required hole and progressively extended the other screw out from the bottom of the ply as he scored round the circle. Not as quick as a hole saw but no dust and quick enough for a DIY job for a fraction of the cost.
Just removing old saturated cement backer from our bathroom, we had black mould forming, previous person installed it before didn't use any SPR/Waterproofing, just dot/dabbed the board onto what seems to be a concrete screed of about 15mm (no studs), now getting the insulated type and starting again with it all.
Yeah that was my biggest concern with the cement stuff, you don’t want to be using a product that still absorbs water. Thanks for watching!
Tip top tips just about to use Jacoboard thank you ……also picked up some tips from comments😮
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
I use the 12mm foam board on internal tiled partitions and 20mm foam board on solid external stone walls. I use a PU foam adhesive for both, screw fixing is not necessary. Having solid stone walls I use this on all my window reveals to eliminate cold spots. £10.78 a sheet if you buy a half pallet (40 20mm sheets)
Interesting, thanks for sharing!
I have a couple of questions regarding fixings into the backer board. For relatively light fittings (soap trays, vertical shower-head rails, etc) do you find the foam backer board gives enough grip with, say wall-plugs and stainless screws into just the backer or do you have to arrange for the studding in the right place to carry them? Also, when it comes to retrofitting grab rails etc that require a high load carrying capability would the board be able to take the tightening load if one was to, say fix resin sockets back into the brickwork. ( I ask because I don't want to clutter the wet room with grab rails while I'm still fit and healthy but can see I might want to fit them in my dotage)
Any thoughts would be appreciated - thanks.
Good question, I knew where all my fixings were going, so made sure there was a stud behind.
If you’re expecting to put lots of fixings in at some point, but not sure where, you could put a sheet of 18mm OSB behind the backer board. The backer board is water proof, so the OSB won’t get wet. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Many thanks for the reply. The idea of using OSB is very interesting. I was starting to think about using Hardie or one of the other fibre-cement boards but that idea gives me another option.
Nice video. I'm looking at doing something similar. For the uneven walls (such as unplastered brick), the jacko video shows 'hammer in' fixings instead of your plug, disk & screw method, where they dot & dab behind a pre-drilled hole. Just wondered why you were not going to use that method please?
Thank you! I think either would work fine, but the boards aren’t that dense, so you need the big disks really. I would recommend not doing the fixing until the adhesive is dry as otherwise you’ll end up not level. Thanks for watching!
Great channel ..
Q....can i ask what Brand is that insulated Tile board ?
would you also use that board on ceiling... ( Future proof )
Thanks
Very kind of you to say so!
The insulated board is branded Jackoboard, but I think there are a number of brands which are probably exactly the same product, so whatever is cheapest is probably best.
I wouldn’t use it on a ceiling, plasterboard and some good paint suitable for a bathroom will be just fine.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Thank you..for yr kind reply.
Hi. What is the minimum thickness foam board do you think i could use on a stud wall with stud work 600mm apart? Thankyou.
Sorry I’m not sure, i expect manufacturers websites will say the rating. 600 centres is quite big for a shower, you could consider a sheet of osb under the backer board for strength or add more studs. Thanks for watching!
So do you notice any difference between the expensive Wedi versus the half price Jackoboard that you have gone for?
I haven’t noticed any difference other than the colour, seems just as dense and I’ve seen plenty of people on CZcams using the purple type unbranded. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I only ask as I was told to use Wedi - termed waterproof against the bath and shower areas and use the termed water resistant Jackoboard elsewhere.
I suppose the next question is what have you done for the floor and ceiling - Cement board or Schlutter?
I think it is personal preference, but I’m by no means an expert! I’ll be using tanking tape on the joints and screw holes anyway.
For the floor I’ve used mapei self levelling screed, which I’ll then use tanking paint over as I’m not tiling the floor. I’ve decided to use click lock vinyl for the floor rather than tile, so it will just sit on top. The flooring im using is rated for bathrooms, the tanking paint is just belt and braces.
I’m a tile bathroom guy, he used the wrong screws. Those screws are going to act as an anode cathode and cause rust behind tile, which will cause tiles to crack as rust on his “stainless steel” screws develops. Water hardness is going to accelerate the issue. He needed polyurethane end caps on his nails, this shower is going to fail in 2 years and the tiles are going to crack then cave in. Otherwise nice job.
All the screws are covered with tanking membrane anyway, so very unlikely they’ll ever get wet.
Why do you put stainless steel screws in quotation marks haha, do you not believe they are stainless steel?
Salty water with a water softener would be more of a rust concern than hard water.
My electrochemical knowledge is only what I recall from my A levels, but I would have thought the wood studs would be a sufficient insulator to stop any flow of electrons, so I’m not worried.
I’ll be very disappointed if this shower only lasts two years!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 yes, wood is a impedance, but the flow of electrons in humidity changes the impedance and acts as conduit for flow of electrons. Membrane doesn’t help, it traps the moisture and accelerates the process, I made original post with assumption you put the membrane on which is why it accelerates it as it never dries. Polyurethane coated screws are the way to go, stainless steel doesn’t mean anything. They will rust especially when acting as an anode and cathode with the alkalinity of the adhesives used. You have highly negative charges on the boards which is why you don’t want any moisture on stainless steel. It’s going to corrode in that environment.
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759The tiles will be fine. Once you add tanking tape and membrane there is no water going anywhere. It makes you wonder how all these old houses are still standing when they didn’t use polyurethane cathode anode screws. 😂
Too expensive
Compared to what? If you use plasterboard it won’t last and marine ply is similar price anyway.
£550 for 36m/2
£898 for 72m/2
Can you use Jackoboard on an external wall such as in the garden area?
I’ve not seen it used outside before, but I don’t see a reason why you couldn’t, worth checking manufacturer guidance though. Thanks for watching!