Laser Cutting Acrylic at Home
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2017
- Attempting to cut 3mm Acrylic in various colours with the HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC. Moved the HyperCube outside for this...
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2.5w Laser Diode:
►www.banggood.com/445nm-2_5W-2...
Safety Glasses:
►www.banggood.com/Red-Blue-vio...
A4 210×297×3mm Acrylic Sheet:
►www.banggood.com/A4-2102973mm...
Download the HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC from Thingiverse:
►www.thingiverse.com/thing:175...
Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood:
►goo.gl/bFyz5H
Amazon 3D Printers and Parts:
►amzn.to/2qdTebt - Věda a technologie
It's what I like most about your excellent videos. You're not afraid to share the info of your failures. Learning how to get everything right usually includes a few Out Take moments : )
you learn more by your mistakes than your successes.
After seeing this video, I bought a 5.5W laser and could cut 2.5mm black acrylic using a single pass at 2mm/s. Thanks for all your informative videos!
What do the edges of your cuts look like, are they square or slightly tapered from the top of the sheet to the bottom, I found the cut's wider at the top of the sheet than the bottom, it's not ideal so I just router them now
I bought a 2.5w laser some time ago, never fit it to a printer yet, watching your video makes me wish I had more time, looks like the best way to cut a frame is inside out, ie. cut any holes, then cut the inner holes and finally the outside of the frame. maybe removing the acrylic and popping out any parts between cuts, so a means of accurately placing the acrylic, maybe against a couple of sides would help.
Good to know. Thanks for the colour tests.
Very interesting. I'm going to have to give cutting Acrylic with my 2.5w elekslaser a go soon!
Great video and inspiring as usual! I have purchased a similar laser for my Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B but am nervous about over driving it. I would like to see a voltage/current regulator used with the PWM output for your laser. A single LM317 would be powerful enough to drive your 2.5W laser though I'm not sure it would be quick enough to follow the square wave your PWM fan.
Some good investigation into cutting acrylic! Just to reiterate to all - you can't cleanly cut clear acrylic with a blue diode laser - clear acrylic will not absorb the laser energy and thus not melt.
Yes you can.
So long as it is red tinted.
Uncoloured.. Not a chance. Beam passes straight through.
Well I tried red semi-transparent acrylic and it didn't cut. From my tests the colour needs to be solid.
Yes, that's what I said - you can't cut clear acrylic - it needs to be coloured to absorb the laser light to do any cutting.
My mileage obviously varied. I'm claiming pure luck, rather than any insight. So diagnosing exactly the difference is a bit difficult.
My laser is the same kind as yours. 2.5W blue laser. So all things being equal.. It should work.
Perhaps we are using different acrylic sheets?
Mine is 3mm dark red cast acrylic, which seems to have a lower melting point than extruded.
My settings for the transparent red are..
Software Laserweb.
Power 100%
Passes 10
speed 100mm/minute.
I think what you mean to say is: it has to be opaque or solid coloured.
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you for posting!
Any upgrades to this since 2017?
One could probably avoid the pop-up (or problems caused by it) by cutting outward from the interior, so cuts containing cuts are done last. That way, even if something does shift midway through, it won't affect anything in progress.
Yes, I need to do this in Fusion360. Cheers!
Hello would you be a guide on the Auto Bed Leveling? Configuration, sensor mounting and offset.
Have you tried engraving 4mm high lettering in acrylic? I was thinking about flight simulator panels.
Thanks
Nicely done :D I think i'll be getting a similar diode for my printer :) thanks a lot
I appreciate this video, i've had a 2.5W laser in my possession for almost a year now, and it's still sitting in the box. but what i wanted to say, here, obviously, since you have to "Focus" the laser, it implies that the beam coming out of the laser is in the shape of a cone, larger diameter at the laser, smaller diameter at the target. if you lower the focus (tip of the cone) so that it's inside the acrylic, then that means that there is going to be some of the laser beam hitting the top of the acrylic just outside the cut line. this part of the beam is taking away from the energy getting to the bottom of the plastic layer you have lowered the focal point to.
now, i'm not an expert on this at all, but it just might be that the deeper you place the focal point into the target material, the less wattage of the laser gets to that point and therefore would take either more power, or longer time to make the final layer cuts. If it were me, and I had all that room on those sacrificed plates, i'd do a few sets of side by side cuts, one set with lowering the focal point into the material, the others using no plate lowering.
then again, if i were me, and I AM, i should get my lazy butt off this chair and build the quick interchangable mount on either my CNC machine or 3D printer.
in any case, this was VERY informative and you now have one more subscriber.
thank you, & keep up the great work.
Russ from Coral Springs, Flordia, USA
Cutting acrylic is one of my favorite things to do. Thanks for the video.
I have to say, that was a bit of a surprising result with the orange in your early tests. Blue and green having difficulty intuitively made sense because of the light reflecting off the acrylic. I only recently discovered your channel as I have just gotten in to 3d printing and after having bought 2 3d printers, i feel an itch to build one. Your Hypercube design is inspirational, and seeing this is giving me so many ideas for the use of a laser module like this. You have earned another subscription!
Welcome aboard kind sir :)
Thank you for this great video but I have a question. Can fabrics and fabrics be cut off with this laser ?
I can already tell I'll end up having an unhealthy obsession with 3D printing and laser cutting things if I ever get the right equipment.
Hi - how do you get the software to move the Z by 1mm every few passes? Which software are you using? I've got Inkscape and Fusion 360. Thanks.
Have you checked the actual power of the laser? Because I bought a similar one rated also for 2.5W but when I checked with a calibrated bolometer the actual power was of 500mW.
Woh! I got a 3.5w module. I didn't expect I would cut 3mm plywood...
Do you have any video about the assembling?
For anyone one thinking they should go out an buy a cheap ebay/gearbest laser engraver please realize the smell emitted from cutting acrylic is not lung friendly, and lingers for hours. I highly recommend a open garage and/or an exhaust system. Best I can describe the smell as being slightly sharp and acidic. While getting a whiff might only just give you a headache prolonged breathing it in could cause problems for some people. Please use caution.
Now for wood I would suggest using a forced air nozzle to blow smoke that is produced away from the cutting area. smoke obstructs the path of the laser weakening it and making dark scorches on the surface. another way to prevent burn marks is putting a layer of blue painters tape over the cutting area on both sides. Also keep a extinguisher nearby. Wood can catch fire, you are burning it with a laser.
yeah, melting acrylic fumes are highly toxic. Same as the smoke from burning wood. There are all kinds of carcinogens in wood smoke. I just received my laser and am doing suede...you want to talk about STINK. I have a temporary exhaust set up with my shop vac but first thing on my todo list is to get an exhaust venting the fumes/smoke directly outside.
From time to time, I have to drill trough acrylic pieces using a standard shop drill with a standard HSS bit. The smell is acidic and pierces your nose, although I find it quite enjoyable. the worst part is when a puiece of molten plastic jumps on your skin.
Would it help with acrylic fumes if there was a HEPA Cartridge Filter?
I know some 3D printers which have HEPA filters to get rid of ABS plastic Smell But would the same work with acrylic?
Awesome vid! Can you try that blue home insulation foam ? I was looking at building one of these but I've only seen ppl cut it with 40w lasers. Thanks in advance!
I have a 7,000mW laser. What would you recommend I set my laser for dark acrylic?
Nice video, but how do you set up multiple passes and lower Z aften each pass? Can you make a video showing how to set it up in Fusion360?
hello Tech2c, i work with Acrylic 6mm, what u'r recomended laser for cut this, and how the pass
Very interesting video, I would be interested in what model of laser you have there
did you cut balsa or 3 layer playwood? THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO!
when you lasercutting the acrilic, you want to go as fast as possible so the material does not heat up and melt. you will get better resolution that way, just increase the amount of passes.
That makes sense.
and determine whether you are using cast acrylic or extruded. Cast has a higher melting point and is harder than extruded. Extruded is actually quite soft.
Amazing. I have a cuestion, Is necesary the Z axis?, Can I cut the acrilic without this axis?
I have selected it has my MSD project SO can u make the video of that laser cutting mechain how to make it
My 2.8W 450nm LASER can cut 3mm black acrylic with 20mm/min feed rate in "one pass". I always remove only the upper protective film before cutting. This method makes the cutting a lot easier.
thank you for this vid
Hi, can I suggest that if you were the make the larger removable segments in to 2, 3 or 4 pieces by adding additional cut lines, they would of been easier to remove putting less strain on the outside frame that fractured
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
What is the best laser cutter to have for making cake toppers?
which software do you use for making the gcode?
Black acrylic will be the easiest to cut, as it absorbs the most energy. I think a sheet of clear glass positioned over the black acrylic would act as a "paper weight" to prevent acrylic lift during the cut. Removing the lower paper backing sheet from the acrylic and placing the acrylic on a mirror sitting on the bed might decrease the cut time (or melt the laser). Printing the inverse pattern in PLA would provide a die, which should enable you to pop out the acrylic sheet quite easily without breaking the small bits. But acrylic is so brittle I wouldn't think it would be useful in a quadcopter, or anything that experiences stress.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Roland Colten instablaster =)
@Jayce Jadiel i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jayce Jadiel It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out !
@Roland Colten no problem xD
Do you have a video on how to build a diy lazer cnc?
I have an A6. What parts must I buy to do laser cutting of acrylic, same as the video. Thank you very very much. Googling only confuses me. 😳
Hi, just a little question. I have an Anet A8. Just purchased the Laser...what kind of software i need to engrave? Thanks
I noticed that you were stopping it just as you were seeing the laser below. Is there a reason you couldn't let it do one more pass to make sure it's all the way through? Does it damage the aluminium plate?
Very nice
Is the design file for the quad frame available?
You are the best. I love spaghetti cheap maccaroni. Do you trim pasta at my home tn?
Great info for those wishing to experiment with laser cutting. I don't know if you can hand focus that particular laser but having watched lots of videos one of the main things seams to be focusing the lens, on the green acylic that only cut 1 axis maybee its not as tightly focused on the uncut axis giving a slight elipse shape and thus cuting less on the wider direction as the beam is not as concentrated. just a thought as i have not experimented with lasers(yet) will be keeping a good eye on future videos, thanks
Very informative video. I see that you're using a different z threaded rod nut. One that seems to have a way to tension it to eliminate backlash. Would be interested in any further info you have about it and your thoughts. Cheers!
Yes I spoke about it in this video czcams.com/video/6MVePHl6V2A/video.html
Hi,but for cut acrylic 5watt laser is good?
Hello I have 3 W laser on 65x50 engraver but without z axis.Which software are you using and how to determine exactly how much feed rate to set for cutting 3mm plywood.I use T2 software
i cut 3mm ply if you have no z axis you focus by hand about 8mms and you can set number of passes in t2 about 8 then reduce as needed hint lift it of the bed so the laser and gas can come through
What if you painted the acrylic grooves each pass with black paint, then washed it off after?
Would that allow you cut transparent?
Hi man! Nice video!
Which software you use?
Thanks!
More power, more speed. Hope to see the improvements.
Do they not make software that can auto compensate the Z? If anything you could hand code the z changes..
after calculating the size of jobs id need to cut,thanks this helped save me heap of money,im going to have to go straight to co2,im doing insert panels and control panels for high end custom ebikes i build,also the battery boxes that are filled with 3m dilectric collant ,need really uniform cuts,i think theres are few videos out there not quite telling the truth
Am I right then in assuming a 5W would just half the amount of passes?
Sir, can you try it on non solid bed such a honeycomb bed ?
The laser can't cut through the bottom side since it heat power is absorbed by the solid bed.
If your 2.5W last can cut 3mm acrylic, will a 5W laser cut 6mm acrylic?
I wonder if you could use air to clean out the slots if it would cut faster..maybe a needle on a mount pointed at the cut point, w/ tubing and a small compressor if it would push enough air thru to blow out the cutting and cool the part that isn't being cut
i think the light of the laser is diffused inside the material the black absorb light the opacity of the black keep the light trap in the cut
Have you tried this to "etch" a printed circuit board?
with some more intricate designs i would add some places for planned "uncut places you can use to prevent lifting. that you can flush cut later. I'd also add an extra pass for acrylic sometimes it likes to cut different for some reason lol. I'd like to see some vinal cuts for stencils or decals/stickers. keep doing what you do !
which laser head are you working in this video ? is it affordable ?
Would you mind trying out cutting 2mm Carbon plates with it?
What program are you using to make the last shape
hey man did you build this your self or did you purchase it? if so can you drop us a link cheers
How do you make such a thin and thin line of your laser?
Any reason I can't just do dozens of passes, and cut through 30mm+ wood?
That is very interesting, I wonder how the 7000mW version would do! I might grab one for my Hypercube evo just for this ! I would probably have some plywood under it and do an extra pass to get a full clean cut.
If you do please keep us informed!
Interested in what it takes to cut these acrylics you cannot cut with this laser 🤔 more powerful laser, other color laser or better focused laser?
If I use 7w laser can it cut 4mm acrylic easily?
is this 7w, 15w or 20w laser and what power percentage did you use please?
Hi, Thanks for sharing your results. I have done a few experiments cutting paper and cardboard with a 2.5W and a 5.5W lasers (both lasers bought from Banggood and needless to say, both cut these materials as if they were butter). I have some wood and acrylic to try in the near future; your base marks will be surely useful. Thanks again; keep the videos up.
How does the 5.5w laser compare to the 2.5w laser? Is it that much quicker to cut?
It is surprisingly quicker. I have only tested 80g bond printer paper and thin 0.5 mm cardboard to cut on different shapes (I used a prusa I3); I have cut both materials at a fixed focal distance of 50 mm for the 2.2W and 70 mm for the 5.5W) adjusting only the speed of cut until I got the cuts clean in 1 pass. The 2.5W 800 and 300 mm a minute and the 5.5W 1620 and 800 mm a minute respectively. Hope this helps. Thanks again for the videos.
That's great news that it does halve the cutting time! Thanks for sharing :)
i've struggled to find a "name brand" safety glass that I'm willing to risk my eyes with, do you have a trusted source? cheers JBFromOZ
3M is a good brand. My work place uses those.
Could PLA been engraved?
Vertical lines on green might be the result of the shape of the laser light. They tend to be more like a line rather than a dot, as I heard.
Hi. How can u cut xlear plexiglas with my atomstack a5pro
Is that laser on a pwm or ttl module?
what was your power setting or about how many watts output?
tried cutting but get a lot of small cracks. is it some way to get around it??
Well that´s why you cut first the inner parts and only at the end the outlay. It would go much better like this!
+1 for the "ahh shit!"moment at the end. Good to show failures as well as success.
Hi,I was wondering if it is possible to etch out black paint sprayed on a copper sheet(PCB) with this laser.Any chance a trial is possible?
Cheers!
Several people do that!
How high from the surface should the laser be
which software did u use for export gcode file? pls help.
How is it with clear acrylic?
Hello from the "future" :)
I noticed when cutting the squares, the laser did cut through in two parallel faces. Would it be possible to modulate laser power along the cutting process so it could be more or less powerfull according to the direction it's moving?
Can't say about this CNC, but I have the same problem, and I'm pretty sure it is precission issue (on my CNC at least). Sympthoms look the same, and that is - in certain directions, my CNC (2.5W also) simply does not hit exectly the same spot, and this inperfection can be better observed on wood as "darker" lines. If I'm wrong, please, correct me. The other part of your question is difficult to answer. Yes, but manually. You will have to edit G-code (it's not hard, just not worth the time).
Cool! I was wondering how the carbon fiber rods are holding up after several months of use by now.. any updates for us? Sorry if you've posted about this recently and I missed it! Thanks so much for your sharing your ingenuity through awesome youtube content!
Carbon tubes are a winner. They work just as well as the day I installed them. No visible wear either. I am using the IGUS plastic bushings on the carbon tubes though.
so basically 2.5W laser is enough to cut 3mm sheet acrylic as long as it pass multiple time until it cutted through?
I get a lot of clear acrylic for free, so can I do clear or will it like just go through it and not do anything
How attached 3d printer like pursa a laser
could it be the sides of the acrylic is allowing light through the sides. as if you cut acrylic mount it into a piece of wood led shows light travelling through the sides. Hope this makes sense.
Hello sir can you send how attach laser to this printer
Great video's. Do you think a 5500mw laser would cut through foam board? I can't seem to find anyone doing this. Thanks
Yes foam board is easy to cut
Live and learn. Thanks for the tips Sensei . Where did you buy that machine? I want that exact same one. Thanks, Dan Past
Check my Thingiverse page in the video description - HyperCube.
Does this machine cut 6mm or 3mm transparent acrylic?
I know this is an older video. I just purchased a "20 watt" version of the laser you used. What do you think the performance might be? Waiting for mine to arrive. I want to do mostly engraving but some acrylic cutting.
And is the Laser arrived? Can you tell me if it works better to cut acrylic? I would like to buy also a 20w but i would like to know how got is it to cut. Thank you for a Answer :)
@@fakeenergie9947 Also wanna know :-)
Will it cut MDF?
The lift of the print is completely preventable, do all of your detail and hole making work first, then cut the outline. In any machining operation you have order of operations, that is why you start with the details first, and then cut the entire part out.
I come from a CNC Machinist background, it is interesting to see that acrylic can be cut with a laser. I have never done any laser cutting, mostly stuff in steel and aluminum, but the order of operations is much the same from what I can see.
Absolutely correct! You have to think critically and logically.
I need a small radius gauge that I need laser cut in acrylic. I have the measurements. Would you be able to do this for me?
Does it cutt mobile phone case plastic 2mm?
Don't know if you have tried this, but can the laser you are using cut cleanly through a typical polycarbonate Compact Disc? I would think it would since the acrylic sheet you are using is much thicker. However, the CDs are mostly clear so perhaps a different color of laser is needed, eh?