Pro Bike Mechanic's 10 Most Hated Bikes
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2024
- Pro Mechanic Nic Vieri's 10 most hated bicycles and why he doesn't like them.
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Drink every time Nic says "absolute nightmare" 😆
Hmm, 20 past two in the afternoon and I am feeling giddy!
Why do you want us dead?
Pretty sure nothing is a nightmare if everything is a nightmare lmao
Got so drunk I bought a Canyon...
I can't cope after 5mins...
My policy is that I never buy proprietary components. Always get round seat tubes, round steerer interfaces, standard BB, etc. I swap parts among different bikes all the time -- it all just has to play nice across the board. Standardization FTW.
Exactly, right now, all my bikes are fine, I am just worried for my next purchase (N+1). The best average bike I found with normal easy maintenance parts was the (Decathlon) Van Rysel - EDR AF 105, my daughter has one. It is similar to my Kuota Alu Shimano 105 bike. If I can't fix my bike by myself, I won't buy it. I am not diving in all the nonsense, carbon wheels, disk brakes, tubeless tires, Shimano Di2, weird bottom brackets. If I were sponsored and had bike mechanics working for me, I wouldn't mind all the way too expensive gadgets. Even if I am 32 seconds late after 100km, I don't care, I just know that I can fix a flat tires in less than 5 minutes, my rim brakes, my rear and front mech has never taken me more than 1 min to adjust, why would I change that ? no need to think about my batteries being charged.
If you take your bike to the bike shop, why do you care? Youre paying for their expertise in fixing these specialized things.
@@michaeldesrosier1068 I do all my own wrenching at home. That's why I care :)
@@michaeldesrosier1068 For me, fixing or upgrading a bike is fun. I like to anaylyze each part of the bike and make sure that is easy mainteance and solid. The last time I asked a bike mechanic for help was 10 years ago for my Mavic Kysrium Equipe rear wheel loose cassettes. I checked how to fix it on the net and I didn't want to mess with the bushing and little parts that fly everywhere when you remove the freehub. I have never bought Mavic wheels again, I know I could have replaced the shitty bushing with an aluminum adapter, but I don't support design flaws.
@@gmsvalleyIf you run tubeless, you're not really fixing flats at all. You just have to remember to add more sealant every 6 months (I believe). I one time got a flat because I hadn't added more sealant in like 8 months. When I went to locate the hole, I found so many places where I got a puncture and it sealed itself and I never noticed. Just thought I lost a little pressure and had to add more air. 🤷🏻♂️
This is why I love my older bikes. Cheap, easy and never break.
100%. Classier, too, than some of these fugly bikes.
Please drop ur fork annually if ur bike is over 10yrs old and inspect for cracks and galvanic corrosion. Your teeth (and maybe much more will thank you)
Proprietary components are a nightmare, who'd have thunk!
To be fair, you *could* build proprietary parts that are super easy to work on, but these are all proprietary with performance as the only consideration.
@@matt.3.14 as a rider I'm less concerned with the complexity of working on them (because I don't work on bikes all day), I'm more concerned with whether a replacement can be sourced a few years down the line, and at what cost. Something as simple as a stripped seat clamp bolt can be a major headache if your bike has a proprietary seat post only available from the frame manufacturer. This stuff is perhaps more forgivable on high end race bikes where the performance Vs practicality trade off is heavily implied. Having stuff like the future shock on mid range bikes is just baking an expiry date into them.
Just an absolute nightmare
It's insane what companies will do just to not have maintenance as a consideration at all. It's almost so bad, you would think they're willing to take a loss on sales just to make bikes as difficult to upkeep as possible. Like some literal lunatic in the C-Suite is mandating this for literally no other reason than his lunacy.
Thunk? Really?
Fully integrated cables on various brands. You have to take the bike to bits to change the headset bearings. Also the gear cable is routed through housing all the way through the bike so it adds more friction .It's also hard to adjust the reach on the bike as they have 1 piece handlebars and stems , this is also a problem if you sell the bike as you can only sell it to someone with the same body proportions . Why oh why ?
I don't know why cyclists like this or want this. It's baffling to me for doing the most simple adjustments, now need to take to a shop cause it will take hours to do something that once took 5 minutes. Why do people like this again?
I think few new bikes with integrated cables come with cable gears now.
They even say "wireless only" on the frame for many of them.
If you don't like it, just don't buy it. There are many options out there.
Always moaning about headset bearings. As if they need replacing every 3 months on a road bike ...
@@irfuel That was just 1 example though but I don't think limiting the serviceability on bikes is a good thing just to save a few watts. It is also creating more waste when they should be doing the opposite.
As someone who owned a gen6 madone: what a crappy nightmare isospeed was. Never worked well, loosened constantly, bushings wore down super fast. Was a hassle to get warrantied. About time they got rid of it. Now that I own a gen7, I can finally ride a comfortable, well performing seatpot
Odd that back in the last days of rim brakes (on high end bikes) manufacturers became concerned about integration and making brakes aero whereas now they’ll just slap a massive un-aero heavy disk brake and rotor on bikes but tell us that all the cables need to be integrated instead 😅
It's bloody hilarious
Trolling buyers at this point.
I've got a Specialized Roubaix SL4, the last model with the elastomers in the forks and seat stays. It's got good compliance and was always comfortable. A riding friend also had one and updated to the new model when they brought out the Future Shock. He thought it was a step backwards. He said it only suspended his wrists and not his saddle. And he could feel all the road buzz through the pedals, which had never been a problem on the elastomer model.
Two years ago I decided I was old enough for an ebike and went for the Trek Domane +LT. It has the Isospeed systems under the saddle and in the steerer. The rear isospeed on my bike has a long leaf spring running under the top tube. However, neither isospeed gave me the compliance of the Roubaix, so i put on RedShift suspension stem (easy) and a Redshift suspension seat post (difficult). The Domane is now nicely compliant but getting the suspension seat post fitted into that Isospeed system took some fancy engineering thinking.
Bottom line is that Nic hates building Francis's bike most 😂😂
Everyone wants to get rid of their front derailleurs for some reason. I had a guy who was convinced he needed to convert his mid-level gravel bike to 1x. “What sort of riding do you do?” I want to ride the backroads in the mountains, but I also want to be able to mash back home on the highway. What chainring should I pick?” He made the best case for a wide range double you’d ever seen. In the end we convinced him to leave his bike as-is, since the only benefit he could come up with was “1x looks cool.” Everyone is wearing out their skinny 12spd chains by riding crappy chainlines, stuck with less range than the old 3x8 used to give you!
Tell them to get rid of their rear derailleurs too. And brakes. Embrace the fixed-gear life.
1x are just better for vast majority of cyclist
Biggest benefit for a normal person: less maintenance, less weight. 44t would be fine for mixed gravel and road without sprints
@@krzysztofkolodziejczyk4335 How? It's never crossed my mind that 2x is an issue, at all, in any way lol
1by is great for gravel rides. Don‘t mind the chainline, just ride. Easy and gear ratio is fine at „skinny 12 gear“ too. 🤷🏻♂️
I’d agree with 50% if this. Surprised the Evil W reckoning and Cube Stereo weren’t on the list for pivot bearings.
I ride a Specialized Diverge Comp E5, IT Has the future shock on the bars aswell. Never had any issues or need to repair, so I guess I got lucky on that part. But anyways, I absolutely LOVE that little suspension.
A redshift stem accomplishes the exact same thing and you don’t have a boat anchor of a proprietary part hanging in your headtube and fork. In addition, Specialized says if you replace your futureshock yourself when it eventually wears out it voids your frameset warranty. Another stupid marketing gimmick idea implemented by Spec. LOL
Love the Roubaix, 5 years trouble free with the Future Shock spring, only recently worn out a bit, my mechanic changed it no fuss, with one of the 3 replacement springs that came with the bike. Sometimes maybe, just maybe, it is the mechanics moaning a bit too much if the job ain't dead easy... 😉😄
It's more like when 99% of the bikes are simple and easy to work on, then it makes the 1% of bikes with proprietary systems that aren't better than other solutions stand out.
@@viet0ne It´s a personal choice, for me it works, takes out a lot of the sting that I experienced with other road bikes. And hey, if it is only 1% of the bikes then mechanics have nothing to moan about, statistically the chances that they´ll have to work on one of those should be pretty low...😄😉
@@roubaix3843 there's nothing wrong with having some dampening, but even before the Future Shock was released, there were plenty of stems that had similar dampening effects that work just as well.
So it's no only simpler but more universal to use on other bikes. You not only get the same benefit but it can be more easily replaced if the company doesn't make it anymore.
Have roubaix also. Did 20000 km no problem. Service also no problems
Totally agree. I've had a Roubaix and now have a Diverge. In 7 years of owning them I've never had an issue with either of them. Rather have that than a weird looking redshift after market stem.
great vid, im doing my own mechanics, but i dont fathom how you guys are working on these bikes, YOU ROCK ON , respect Dude
Hey guys,
Absolutely love the content and i have watched a ton of your videos if not all. I noticed one thing though. At first you guys were weighing bikes with the scale by holding the lanyard (which you have since fixed. You switched to using the handle (great). In actuality that handle part is supposed to clamp in your maintenance stand and you just pick the bike up and hang it from the hooks. Cheers Lads.
As a Ribble Ultra SL R owner, I knew it would be on this list! 😂 That being said I love how many bikes are on this list because of proprietary rim brakes.
I agree completely on the TT bikes. Making even a slight change to extension length or angle is furiously complicated, let alone wanting to drop your risers down by a couple millimeters.
I worked in a bicycle shop during the 80's when U-brakes became popular on BMX bikes and mountain bikes (there was a picture in the video). They were commonly mounted under the stays or behind the forks. They were a giant annoyance. I think they still use them in the BMX world.
I have a Cervelo S5 (2012) It takes 25mm Hutchinson Fusion5 tyres not rubbing :) All my bikes use 25mm tyres as I find 28mm a bit muddy with handling.
yeah, i’ve found the specialized 24 mm turbos fit perfectly.
Very good insights. Thanks.
Not a specific bike brand, but any bike brand with a single-bolt saddle rail clamp. They never stay in place at the angle you want, never loosen when you need to adjust them, AND they always creak.
On 3 different bikes with a 1 bolt seat clamp never had a single problem. I consider a 2 bolt system doable but also a hassle.
No problems. If it is moving then use some carbon grip grease.
never had any moving or creaking with one bolt saddle cramp. or loosening them. i had like 4 of them before moving to proper bikes, and i'm 90 kg. you are probably doing something wrong.
I've never had a single Specialized single-bolt saddle clamp even budge when torqued to spec.
Try a USE seatpost, never had any of the issues you mention!
My partner has a giant with those brakes, and I've got a Dolan TT bike with one on the front and an under BB on the back. Both bikes the brakes work brilliantly, no rubbing, loads of power. Is Nick up to the task? My partner also has a diverge with a head shock. The boot spilt, it got water in it, I serviced it, it's not hard.
haha I knew the foil was going to turn up! Still impressed with Nick for building that bike with imaginable grouppo when my shop struggles to get one of them on there and working well
Interesting considerations. Thank you
I have a Scott bike with the rear brake behind the bottom bracket. Weird but no problems so far. More Nic!
I own a Grail with Double Decker, super comfy, fits me nicely too :)
Owner here too. Love the design but really hate the double decker and handlebars in general as it is really difficult to find any bags/components fitting on it. Also setting it up again when traveling was also troublesome sometimes
I recently bought double decker GRAIL and I love it. Lots of space on the handlebar to put a camera, phone and some other stuff. Also gives extra hand position. The thumb lock works great I feel more "locked in" with the thump grips and my hand does not slip at all on the drops. Also I do not have to grip tight on the drops as my thumbs are holding some of my weight. Also the hoods and drops are stiff which helps me a lot when pushing out large power. But yes, there are downsides. First of all the stiffness is not very comfortable on hoods and drops and there is almost no adjustability on the handlebar. I think a new bar would cost around £450 and the fork tube diameter is not standard...
I've spoken to others that had the brake under the bb (2013 Trek Madone) & it was very location dependant. The people who rode in bad weather regularly hated them but if you lived in good weather they were great!
Great to know since my Winspace T1550 has those
@@matkrek it's just something to pay attention to. After a wet or particularly dirty ride I'd make sure to clean it up. That bike is still going strong 11 years later! I stopped riding it 7 months ago only because I bought a new bike!
@@joekawasaki My 2016 Rose Xeon CGF has the rear brake in the same place. Never had any problems with it in Irish weather
@@dubbct1589I've spoken to people from Washington state, Canada, and the UK that have all had problems with them. A couple of them said the issue was corrosion inside the cable housing causing failure which is why they disliked them. My time with them they've only gotten wet from the occasional puddle, a heavy marine layer, or washing the bike. I personally loved them! The frame already had to be strong there because of the bb, the seat stays were able to be made thinner, & as a weekend warrior I can use any aero advantage to keep up with the bunch 😜
V1r here and I also have a t1500 no issues with the brake , he even said “ they don’t work well at all “ talks a lot of shite this guy ignore half the shit he says , piss poor some of the stuff they come out with ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE ffs 🤦
Have the Giant Propel and i can completely agree - Cable routing over the stem is a pain in the ass if your doing any rewiring, etc. Also the brake setup means you have to defalte the tyre every time you want to remove the wheel as you cant release the tension on the areo brake calipers to fit an inflated tyre through.
I love my Roubaix. The Future Shock makes a huge difference on rough roads and gravel. However I haven't owned it long enough to need any work done on it.
Great real world information. Make bikes simple again
I've owned the Giant Propel with rim brakes since lockdown. Put 1000's of miles on it & the brakes have been & still are absolutely spot on.
Great vid. My cervelos are a pain 23 mm tyres
The tire clearance on cervelos is the main thing holding me back from buying a new one. The p-series allows for 28mm but that's the bare minimum now
I have the Ribble Ultra SLR and I do agree with the steering, but honestly, you absolutely get used to it. The only time it ever comes into play is a traffic light track stand. as for the bars, I have the narrower 36cm (at the hoods, 40 at the drops) and they take some adjusting to (I came from a 40) but the bike is incredibly comfortable, with bartape on the drops though!
I had an orbea avant h30, that was a welded cable guide for the for the front mech which was in the wrong position and the same across all of the cheaper aluminium frames, this made shifting terrible. to the point that it was super stiff and regularly you couldn’t change your front chain ring gear. Ended up having to have the cable rooted pretty much thinner away from the welded bracket. Shocking design. Oh also, the bike that claimed to be a 51 was closer to a 54 that is pretty common nowadays
the real beauty of a bicycle is it's simplicity.
Yes! It's had over 100 years to be refined, so there aren't going to be major advances from year to year. Certainly a 1970s bike isn't going to be as convenient to ride, but there are _tons_ of 1970s bikes still in use today. You can't say that about many things.
I'm so relieved the Gazelle Avignon I just bought doesn't incur Nic's ire. Phew!
I own a rimbrake 2017 Trek Madone, and kinda expected that my bike will be on this list for the reason I also struggled with. The rubbers around the IsoSpeed seatpost is now deteriorated and I can't find a replacement for it 😂🤣
I have a 2019 Madone SLR, but disc not rim. I'm lucky I found a compatible BB90 bottom bracket that's better than the garbage the Trek sells with the plastic cups -- creaks for days. Other than that, and the weight penalty of the IsoSpeed "compliance" seat post, I set it to the softest setting and forgot about it. Love that damn bike.
Honestly, I think people/companies need to stop using static pictures of bikes to market them. Integrated cockpits, funny profiles for the tubes, 'aero' brake calipers, etc - you're simply not going to notice any of them when the bike's in motion, and it's designed to be in motion!
For example my bike has semi-internal cables - they come out of the levers, under the bar tape, then swing around the head tube and enter the down tube near the top, then they exit the down tube at the BB (for the front mech) and chain stays (rear mech and brake). The only exception is the front brake which runs down the inside of the fork instead of the down tube. So it's a little bit of hassle but worth it for the protection of the cables, but the lack of integrated bar/stem means they're so much easier to work on. Yes, while the bike's propped up on the cafe wall it doesn't look quite as slick as some of the others, but that's 15 minutes of a 3 hour ride, and the other 165 minutes you just don't notice it.
I don't know about other folks, but to me, aero-schmero! I've got a good 20kg of beer belly and I like biscuits and cakes too much too, I'm not expecting to win any races any time soon because I don't race at all anyway. Sure going fast is fun, but I don't need to be going fast all the time. I ride at the pace that suits me and if I need my speed fix, well, you bet I can shift when I'm going downhill! :D
Really loved watching Moser race when I was a kid. Went from winning on an Alan to solidly NOT winning on the Moser. Went back to a later model Alan and started winning again. Seems that a Moser just wasn’t for me ( but it would have been quite collectable in Giro pink nowadays)
Mucjas Gracias por tus observaciones. Yo siempre he preferido lo más eficiente, sencillo, económico posible, conservador, y no complicarse la existencia, para ser feliz y dar a los pedales.
Aún me resisto a cambiar y tengo una Bianchi y una Fondriest, ambas de acero 10.5 kg, y frenos de cangrejo, con 23 de sección. Y soy feliz en carretera, ya con 45 años sobre una bici de ruta y 60 de vida. Saludos desde México 🇲🇽👋
Colnago C68, nightmare to route the brake hoses through the handlebars, i built one for a mate (way outa my budget)
I have a question. So my hub uses jbend spokes right. But the mechanic didnt lace the spokes, instead they did it like a straight pull. Would this be fine? Like in terms of the stiffness and durability of the wheelset? I can see the spokes poking out halfway in the rim hole.
I'm sorry, how is that even possible?? The holes on the flanges for the spokes are pointing sideways.
@@yonglingng5640 i dont even know man. I think the mechanic got ahead of himself and jumped to conclusion and think that the spokes were short. I really dont understand how and why he continued with the remaining spokes like he can literally see the spokes poking out the nipple
Last year ive build my first bike (mtb) what i didnt like as much i expected is internal cable routing with those extra soft tubing on top of it , i do prefer to have it just in the bottom tube and under BB and chainstays with zipp ties :D
LOOK 695 Aerolite had absolute nightmare integrated rim brake in front fork AND direct mount brake behind bottom bracket. I opted for the regular 695
Hmmm... not once did you mention the slow boil issue with all of the internal routing is causing. Bikes heavily ridden (read: bikes with 10, 20, 30 thousand miles, ridden on bumpy gravel/groad terrain) with internal routing are often being found by mechanics to have brake hoses and cable housing with deep rub marks due to the tight bends within the handlebar, stem, frame and fork routing. These rub marks and gouges may lead to ticking time-bomb situations where hydraulic brake hoses may develop leaks internally in the frame. I've seen this first hand a few times. Food for thought....
The Haro 540 air BMX bike had the rear brakes on the bottom of the bb. Grinding with it was a nightmare. Snap off a brake pad or a brake line and not know it til you try to stop going down a big hill. Doing a crank grind would destroy the rim brakes down there.
I’m really not a fan of proprietary components especially since I’m not racing and I don’t ride in fast group rides. I have a disk brake, steel tubed framed, externally cabled, tubeless gravel bike and I love it. It does everything I need it to do.
I think you meant BB90, not BB92 for the Madone. The PF92 BB was used on Treks pre t47 mountain bikes, and does have a Dub BB (My Remedy has a PF92 Dub BB in it right now). BB90 was that stupid design that creaked and didn't have a Dub BB
This is the BB standard I hate to work with the most.
A neighbour loves the idea at 10:30 as it offers versatility . I adjust and bleed the brakes or run the brake lines to suit as needed . They don't mind as I do the work .
Im glad you didn't mention Khs because I bought two of them .
How do you feel about Surly midnight special frameset?
Have a 2011 Ridley Noah and I had to relegate it to indoor only since not only could it only fit up to 23c tires it had to be specific 23c tires (ie: conti 23c would rub). I broke a few spokes and I couldn't ride it home,so a few sag wagons later I stopped riding it outside.
Replaced with a 2021 Trek Emojda (t47 BB and di2). So much easier to maintain.
Great video
First Giant MTB started with Calipers at the underside of the rear fork because of its the strongest place on the frame. Worked fine, cleaning was a big job.
I remember a lot of those 80s MTBs had roller brakes, too!
I have exactly that 2016 Giant propel. Actually those brakes are awesome in terms of stopping power and feedback. They are a little harder to adjust but it's not a big deal really. I love that bike!
Believe me, I could list 50 bikes worse than any on the ones this guy listed here, but most people won’t have heard of them. Shite like the Itera which I always say is the worst bicycle ever made, no question. It flexed in dimensions that scientists didn’t even know existed. I have one in my garage awaiting restoration just so I can remind myself just how bad it is. Then there’s the Strida, a folding bicycle that due to its design, the taller you were the closer you had to sit to the handlebar. People over 5’10” ended up with the handlebar in their crotch. The Sinclair micro bike, a design so bad it was funny. 6” wheels on London roads, for fuck’s sake? You’d go over the bar if you hit a matchstick in the road. It was absolutely lethal. The Softride. A suspended carbon fibre boom instead of a top tube that meant your saddle height could change by about 10cm every pedal stroke. Seriously? That’s just a few off the top of my head.
Current favourite shite bike is the Tern GSD electric cargo bike. A great concept ruined by being designed by fucking idiots with no concept of the word “maintenance” and built by cheap labour. Two days ago I had to replace the front headlight on one. It involved removing the entire transmission, dropping the motor and trying the remove the wiring loom through a hole in the main frame that a consultant gynaecologist would have struggled with. It took me 7 hours because the loom ripped and I had to re-wire the whole thing. Today it failed, and I have to do the whole thing again. Fuck you, Tern.
But the worst bicycle right now? Anything made by Pendleton. Cheap as shit Chinese garbage with the worst components possible built with all the care and attention of an Auschwitz camp guard and sold by Halfords. That’s all you need to know.
Just buy a 531 steel framed fixie. You’ll be a better person for it, trust me. And you won’t hate bikes.
Missed out the Boardman Air, which was similar to the Giant Propel/Trinity but with added fuckwittery of rear brake behind bottom bracket. Had the t9 forks with integrated brakes. Absolute hell to set up. Never stayed centred. Horrible cable routing. Press fit shit bottom bracket. Refused to put it in on ebay. Took it down to the tip and threw it in a skip. Then blocked Boardman on Twitter in disgust. The absolute worst frame I've had in 30yrs.
Cool story bro
Can confirm the propel brakes are pants! Especially paired with carbon brake surface wheels!
Going down steep hills in the wet is bloody sketchy.
I then went out and bought a B:twin ultra af as my winter/commuter bike. They hid the rear brake under the BB and its a nightmare to get the back wheel off 🤦♀️its not even a remotley aero bike!
Checklist for stress free home mechanic life:
Hollowtech II
Cable pull everything
Round shapes, no aero anywhere
Tubes, not tubeless
Double bolt saddle clamp
Here's a POSITIVE one. 1972 Schwinn Varsity. Uses regular hex fasteners. (not socket head)
Want the bar higher? No problem, just loosen one bolt and pull it up.
Want to change the bar angle? Again, loosen one bolt, re-position it, then re-tighten the bolt.
All over the bike, it's the same story. Anyone can work on them. The only challenge is finding parts nowadays.
Love it! Worked on a few Trinity's and must admit you have a few interesting hours ahead of you!
Can i add the controversial anything with Campagnolo on it? EPS,their disc brakes,need i go on! 😂
I love Ergopower levers. Much nicer than Shimano as a rider. I run a hacked drivetrain just to use Ergopower and have its trimming capability.
Honestly one of the most watchable people on CZcams
Through it would be a list of supermarket/big box bikes, but it’s mostly higher end bikes with proprietary components…I actually didn’t have any problems upgrading my cheap Schwinn as everything is standard!
I wish the Futureshock would be easier to work on, but I need it for my wrists. Crazy that it took so long for these things to exist.
Specialized venge vias rim brake
As someone with the rim brake propel, I agree
Can confirm that the rear tire is scraping off the inner sides of my 2018 Cervelo S5. Since 2021 I'm running continental tubeless 25mm tires on my enve wheelsets front and back and they strangely seem narrower, but they dont touch the chainstays anymore.
Yes now that the carbon has worn down no more rubbing lol
@@scottsolomon8537 Seems that you know exactly, what you are talkin' about lol
Used to hate working on the Apollo Excel 25 plus years ago, a full susser for less than £150 that never lived up to parents expectations.
Ive got a diverge gravel bike with the future shock 1,5 that's been removed now and i fitted a solid machined replacement. I don't mind the future shock to work on but its a heavy part and expensive to replace
Is the replacement offered by The Bike Sauce?
I’m assuming he was only considering higher-end bikes. I was first just glad my cheap-as-chips Boardman wasn’t on there and also reassured how many problems there are with different rim brake bikes.
Now I’ve owned a few and given I may be in the market later this year for a good quality custom-built bike, this hatred helps!
I so agree with technology that shouldn’t be passed down without a pro mechanic coming with it!
Had to chuckle to myself when first thing mentioned is cannondale proprietry components and dimensions - every mechanics nightmare.
What I got from this video. Don't buy a bike with gizmos and gadgets. Buy standard if at all possible.
I was waiting for the Scott foil. Glad that POS made your list.
To fix tire rub, some carbon chainstays can be modified by frame builders / repairers to fit slightly larger tires but that will void your warranty. My Parlee had tire rub with 25mm, but Calfee Design in California modified the chainstays to run 28mm tires with no rub (and no problems).
I started mountain biking in the very early 90s, with an MBK. That had a U-brake mounted by the bottom bracket, which combined with a triple chainring biopace chain set left no room for mud... With the obvious disadvantages. Awful bike. However, the worst bike I ever bought was one I really wanted and saved for as a kid. The Orange Clockwork, back when it was a rigid bike. It rode like it was mush, it squidged under power and was thoroughly disappointing. Oh well. The best bike I ever owned was a Kona and now they hare going bust. Sad days.
That era, even the Spesh Stumpy had a U-brake on the chain stay
I have worked on car's and motorbikes, long before I got into cycling. Bicycle manufacturers have nothing on car manufacturers, for doing stupid stuff that makes mechanics lifes a nightmare lol.
The only real thing that baffles me about Bicycle manufacturing, is bottom brackets. Why is there a need for so many different sizes, just doesn't make any sense.
I’ve had two bikes on nicks list 😂😂 propel and the Grail but not anymore 👍🏻👍🏻
My canyon aeroad came with handlebars extended, they weren’t detached or in the narrow position. They fit fine in their shipping boxes that they use for all their bikes. It def doesn’t make shipping easier. Also I have 10k miles on my 2021 aeroad and it doesn’t creak (not the handlebars anyway). The seatpost issue is what pisses me off, thankfully it’s just a noise that can be fixed, but it comes back and you have to keep reapplying grease and carbon paste. I think they fixed the issue in the new 2024 models
This (Ultimate here, same handlebar); plus that it is very comfortable, when packing bike into the hard-case for travel. Just undo screws and dismount the handlebars extensions, and then it just fits the case. Much easier, than with a normal handlebar
No thanks, don’t want a creaking nightmare for a handlebar! 😀
@@ivanboesky1520there is no creaking to, zero
I'm glad he called out the Roubaix. Specialized has a death wish for weird tech on this bike. First the Zertz insert, now the future shock. Frustrating because I agree, they have it exactly right on geometry (though I find myself falling between sizes on Specialized sometimes).
isn't the new specialized futureshock 3.0 service proof?
TREK Domane SLR 2024, stupid seat post slipped all the time and they couldn't fix it, had to give it back. Replaced with Time Alpe d'huez disc, couldn't be happier.
You forgot the Specialized Venge with mechanical brakes, absolute nightmare for the exact same reasons as the others 🤣
Venge ViAS*
Love my canyon grail, even if I do look silly 😅
me too
I've got an Argon 18 Nitrogen, it got the same stupid TRP rim brakes as the Giant Propel. An absolute nightmare to adjust. Ohhh and the max tire width is 25mm.
I just sold my 2018 madone SLR rim and it's FINE. Granted I only built 2 of them and don't have to deal with them in a shop setting.
AH, I was scared you were going to come after my Scott Addict 15... Yeah FRANCIS' Foil makes sense.
the Canyon handlebar is not to fix a shipping problem (they are shipped in the same size box as the old handlebar bikes) its a production benefit. the new handlebar can provide for a wide range of people because you can change the size. therefor production cost can be lowered and the price can stay competitive (customer benefit). they don't recommend you to change the width of the handle bar constantly, its just so you can size it right to you and leave it at that size.
6:48 I have this bike and i love it but i had to buy a new one for the tyre clearance.
Take a simple idea and make it complex. Yeah, that'll work. Never let marketing and engineering design a bike together.
I own at Scott Foil rim brake...
I don't find the rear BB brake be that bad performance or service wise.
TRP HY/RD brakes the cable pull hydraulic brakes. Had them on my bike and had nothing but problems with spongy brakes and just generallly not working. They ended up practically seizing and had to have replaced with regular cable pull brakes. Theoretically they’re good, but I had so many problems with them.
If there's nobody in the area with a mineral oil-based bleed kit (not tied to any brake brand), you are indeed better off using something else.
@@yonglingng5640 Yeah, it's meant to be a sealed system so doesn't need bleeding but my local bike shop did this a couple of times for me, both times within a few months the brakes had gone soft. I didn't use the bike for a few months and then one of them had basically seized. I took to another bike shop and they told me this could be a problem with those and suggested replacing with regular Spyre brakes
@@a1white Was the seizing caused by swollen seals?
I’ve got two Argon 18’s both with similar rim brakes to the Giant and I hate adjusting them they are a complete nightmare.
Came into this video knowing that Specialized Roubaix would be in here. I still love mine .. but it's a PIA anytime I need to work on the headset. 😬
Just more parts and fasteners to deal with than usual, at least it's better than working with integrated internal routing. I even got myself a slim long-reach 4 mm hex bit socket in order to torque down the collar to the steerer tube to clamp the Future Shock once the headset cover is on (2017 & 2018 Roubaix's headset cover is one-piece, with a hole for the collar clamp's bolt just slightly larger than 4 mm that most 4 mm bit sockets can't fully fit through if you want to bottom out on the bolt's hex interface).
The bike I hate most is at the same time the bike I love most: the Alpha 7 (which is a velomobile). It is so beautiful, comfortable, quite practical and rediculously fast compared to my road bike BUT its a nightmare to work on. I mean usually everything works fine - until it doesn't. You can't just hang it in a work stand and easily take everything apart. These things are not made with ease of maintainance in mind. But should you figure out what to repair or adjust, how to do it and have the tools, the mechanical and acrobatic skill (and the patience and frustration tolerance) you'll have the nicest ride ever. Actually I want to get rid of ... but somehow I would really like to get another velomobile one day. Am I making any sense?
Another Canyon Aeroad owner here. I am still wondering why nobody is hating on the system arranging the degree of the saddle (is that.... Yaw? Pitch? I don't know).
So, I unscrew the screw which keeps it in place and then add a bag of frozen mangos to it, in order to shrink the (and this is where my English runs out) inner metal piece so I can then loosen it and adjust the saddle
HATE IT
Pitch is nose up/down, yaw is nose left/right
Latest Scott Foil is a nightmare too. It's a press fit for the saddle angle. Impossible to just untighten and slightly adjust it. Why o why ...
Nailed it Nic.
#1 anything with internal cable routing