Bottom line is that your efforts are to be commended....as well as your patience ....great vids...great replies.......certainly your info will help me resolve my friends 2005 Honda CRV issues...........
Yes same stuff....it appears that our engine has most if not all of its slow starts in the morning.....meaning engine DOES turn over but does not fire.......she says after about 6 tries it finally fires...then for the rest of the day no issues starting..... Do you think I should start with the efi relay first?
Geez. After few days searching what is wrong with my immobiliser (green key light blinking) Thanks to you video I realised that PGM Fuel Injection Relay is the one to blame. Thanks a lot sir for you time and effort.
Citizen I recommend replacing the pgm-f1 main #1 relay.This controls the fuel injection and if it starts to fail it causes the car to just crank over and not run.And also based on your cars symptoms I think your slow cranking before puts a lot of wear on this relay specifically.My car had this relay start to fail ironically at the same time the starter failed and replaced.The part number is AR6229 from napa. However other parts stores carry this relay just probably a different number.The relay is pointed out in my video and is on the top row in the middle.Hope this corrects the problem.R
I had this same issue I checked my battery, starter, and alternator and all were good. It ended up being the starter relay so I went to advance auto parts and bought the relay for $7 and now my car runs great!
Steve Just keep in mind the starters on the K series 2.4 are Known for premature starter failure(age wise) or mileage.If your car operates fine for now,but begins to show the Non typical slow crank and your car has the Original starter I would not hesitate to replace it.And also over time the slower cranking starter does Wear out the PGM-F1 (fuel injection relay) due to the slow crank it heats up That relay and will cause the car just to turn over and over(not fire) or not crank.I will say on our 04 it had no click or drag,really nothing to indicate it was failing.It finally hit a dead spot and I had to pop the top of it with a long extension and hammer to get it to shift internally past the dead spot to a good electrical point and it cranked.This was Final indication the starter was Toast.Simple check and got the starter the next day.
Ok heres some info.From Napa its AR6229 (Echlin brand) $49.99, Advance auto is R6229 (do not recall brand) $45.99 or go to ebay and type in AR6229 relay and only shows 1 seller cost is $48.00. This is the PGM-F1 relay for the fuel injection.Ok
Victor R.Sorry for overlooking your question! It in my opinion your car not cranking after sitting for several days and the battery is to weak to crank the car the battery could be your problem.A battery needs to have at least 12.6volts to crank on the lowest number to start.I would suggest charge the battery for 24 hours and then check then take the car or battery to have a load test on the battery to ensure it does not have a dead spot or is out of date age wise and needs to be replaced.Now if you do this and the battery passes next are my suggestions.If the you try to start the car and it does not even crank the engine,check the battery voltage with a multimeter.If it as said 12.6 volts up to 14.0 (average) then your charging system is not the problem.Next step if the voltage is good,take a long screw driver and or socket extension and place on top of the starter motor.Tap (LIGHTLY) with a hammer on the end of either tool on the starter and after this try to crank the car.If it cranks this would mean your starter has a dead spot where electricity will not conduct meaning the starter is (BAD).I will say in short these 2.4 liter engine starters do not grind,or miss a tooth then crank(but it could) but in my situation the starter finally hit the said dead spot.This can create the illusion of a bad battery or non charging alternator problem and can easily be overlooked.Hope this helps and any further questions just ask.
Steven M.A few questions and maybe some ideas.Does the cars engine actually turn over,but not crank?(like it is out of fuel).If your car has had a slow crank going on at anytime for awhile I suggest replacing your PGM-F1 relay inside the car. It is located above the fuse box behind the kick panel.However if the car is trying to crank but will not turn the engine over it could be a weak battery (get it tested) and or a failing starter.I would at least use a multimeter to check the voltage.It needs to be at least 12.9volts for a battery to be considered good with the key OFF.Last idea is if the starter is just grinding and not cranking,try using a long extension(tool) or even wood and place on the top of the starter then tap the end(use a hammer) of what you use closest to you.If the starter has a dead spot or weak it could allow it to slip past this temporarily.Try to crank the car after tapping it,if it cranks your starter is bad.Hope this helps but,start with the battery check 1st,then tapping the starter.If you have any further questions and more details let me try to assist.
Thank you so much! That information is well received and needed. I'm noticing that Honda I some what of a secret society. If you don't ask the right question they don't offer the info!
Well I am sure most dealerships will not elaborate the reasons this issue is (common) and makes a person think it is multiple things or something major.Primary reason I shared ALL the details and as many possibilities of what can or does occur.thanks for viewing.R
Nav D. thanks for the follow up.GLad it was what I thought it was the alternator failing.We all get busy and and forget to follow up on things.Cool.Just glad the car is fixed and good.
Ken W.I will be simple and tell You your starter is going (BAD).The 2.4ltr K series engine is known for the starter's showing weird signs of failing.It will show signs as like multiple rotations of cranking before it fires up.It typically does not always do the no crank or clicking or a dead spot on the solenoid of the starter(however our 04 Did).I will say it is a (hit and miss) on diagnostics from any auto store as it is just that.My recommendation is replace the starter and the dry gasket for the intake manifold.The felpro gasket kit part is MS96473 sold at auto zone or advance auto.Now after replacing these 2 items (IF) you hear a clicking sound when cranking the car inside that would be your Pgm-F1 or main#1 relay for the fuel injection.It is the center relay on the top level of your fuse box and tan In color.The napa part number is AR6229.To finish just replace the starter and the intake manifold gasket and unless you here a very (distinct) click in the cabin when cranking the car (which would be the relay I said) do the needed items.What happens is the constant holding the key (ON) heats up the said relay and will make it get (hot) and start to click on cranking the car with a worn starter.I know this is a ton of information but I like to be very specific!!!!I just this past jan replaced my nephews 06 accord with a lagging crank same 2.4 enging but the relay was (fine) and did the starter and gasket and done!!! This car had 140k and bought used.I went to check out this car and knew this on my initial overview for my family member who bought the car.if you have any further questions just ask.
Annita O.I did not upgrade my red(positive cable).I however did replace my black ground cable to the fender.I also added a black ground to the shown point to the intake manifold.I used a number 4 gauge cable and cut to fit and used other materials to make it weather proof.As for checking the said relay (IF) this was a problem when you crank the car you (Could) hear a clicking sound when cranking (IF) the starter is failing due to age/mileage and or very slow cranking on your 2.4 liter engine(4 cylinder engine).I will say as a example on my nephews 2006 accord with the same 2.4 K engine or 4 cylinder it had a (SLOW) cranking before cranking up.The relay in the car (did not click at all).The starter was just worn out and I replaced the intake manifold gasket and starter and it works fine !!I did this back in Jan of 2016 and just last week did a service on this car and it works just fine.Not to be too technical but what happens is if your starter is beginning to go bad OR fail it make's the relay for the fuel injection get (HOT) which in turns could make it (go bad) and you could hear a click sound when cranking.It is my suggestion to just replace the (KNOWN) bad part the starter and only (IF) you have a slow cranking issue after that you would have to (replace) the relay I said for the fuel injection.I know this sounds complicated but my video's show and or explain what the car should sound like on a good work Honda accord.If you have any further questions just ask!!!!!!! In most cases it is just the starter is worn out and not the relay inside the car.
Dela K let me look into this as I am tired and just checking things quickly tonight.I do not want to suggest anything at this point.But the main #1 fuel injection relay or pgm-f1 could be the problem.This is the center relay on the top level inside the car above the fuse box and tan or brown in color.These do tend to create issue's with the car cranking and or running in general and Not a uncommon problem with the 2.4 liter or k series engine.I would consider checking this video and my 1st video or more information unless I can determine a alternate idea.I do point out Each relay inside the car and the relay part number in the 1st video on slow cranking and or relay problems.I will follow up later.
Antonio I would recommend the ACC relay part number from napa is AR6242 and this is your accessory power socket relay.This is when you turn the key and have power to the radio but ,before cranking the engine.In simpe what happens if the engirne cranks over and over it gets this relay (HOT) if your starter is going (BAD) and causes lag in the cranking and can cause the PGM-F1 main relay to go bad or click or not work along with the THE relay I listed.A straight forward description is on my wifes 04 slow cranking,made the Said pgm-f1 main #1 to click and ALSO the accessory power socket relay OR (ACC RELAY) .The slow cranking makes both of these relays get hot and create alternate problems.In short I doubt your starter cut relay is bad and the ACC or accessory power stocket relay is on the TOP level last relay going towards the firewall or engine bay.OK
Ahish, you have to lift up the step plate that runs along beside the driver seat.It pops up and does have grooved ends that help hold it in place from each end.Once that is removed the kick panel that covers the fuses and relays pull out kind of like a sliding door motion.You reinstall the kick panel first then the step plate when done.I may make a video to illustrate this as the question on how to remove these plastic items to just get to the relays has been asked before.Hope this helps for now.
Nick D.Some questions and some thoughts first.If your car has the original starter to (me) this would be my first thought to address.But as said questions are a few.Did you actually get the battery checked and or verify the voltage with a multimeter prior to replacing the battery the car had?Reason I say this simple.A starter can create a issue where the car does nothing when trying to crank and imitate a bad alternator and or bad battery.If when you turn the key ON the cluster lights up,headlights work and all other electrical work is Good.My suggestion is take a long screw driver and or a long socket extension and place on top of the starter below the intake manifold and tap the end of the tool used with a hammer.Tap 2-3 times lightly!! and IF the car then cranks this means your Starter has Failed and needs to be replaced! DO not delay getting this done as if your starter has a dead spot and or where no electrical power is making it work it can and will fail and never crank again.If you have any further questions just ask as I may have left off something.I think your starter is the problem.And also tapping the starter makes the solenoid click past the dead spot( or no electrical current) to engage the starter and will Not hurt it.
I have an '04 Accord EX 2.4 4cyl with the following error codes: 61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Ckt/Open (Current 135-1) P0685 Engine & Powertrain Control Modules, Power Relay Control Circuit/Open What do these codes tell you? Which relay should I get replaced & do you have the part # please? Thank You
Luis if your 12volt power socket is not working I will say it is the #32 fuse top level of the fuses next to last fuse.If your relay that controls the acc top right last relay on the Relay's your car would typically not start or intermittent crank.In short your relay is probably fine(it would click and the car may not crank) if your radio works your #32 fuse will NOT be blown.Check your cars owners manual for the fuse diagram or the fuse box diagram as it is in both locations.IF your 12 volt power socket is not working it can be 1 or 2 things.Either your socket plug is loose or your socket has a bad electrical working aspect.You really have two choices.Check the plug connector to the 12 volt power socket and then verify with a multimeter a 12 volts power to the socket in the actual push in terminal to the 12 volt socket BUT plug removed to insert the multimeter test leads.If you have 12volts with the terminal plug removed using the - /+ and power coming out to the actual plug. Your plug in socket has a bad connection or worn out.In short you probably have power to the 12 socket but the socket is not working due to age,use and or worn components in the socket itself (and NOT a relay or fuse) if the power to the plug going to the socket has 12volts BUT the socket is not working this means you just need a NEW socket.I know this is long winded but to try and go into extreme detail is well not needed.Tired and forgive me for any goofs.
Antonio Just replace the PGM-F1 main relay.This relay is on the TOP level with 3 relays and the relay you NEED is in the middle and brown in color and the Napa part number is AR6229.I point out the specifics in the relays in this video and my 1st video with good detail.The simple explanation is the slow turning starter causes the the pgm-f1 main relay to get HOT and over time will make it click and not operate as it is supposed to do.I had another member replace his slow cranking starter and still have a slow crank.I pointed out the same relay and it was replaced after my suggestion to him and FIXED the problem.I seriously doubt the fuel pump or fuel pump relay are your issue based on my research and understanding of the system overall.Just go to napa and buy this part and if you have to rewatch my videos do so for any clarification.It is easy to do!!!! I will not say I am perfect but,the accord in the 03 - up to current generalluy do not have fuel pump issue's or fuel pump relays go bad.Just replace the relay I said and this Should Fix the problem and the car should run perfect!!!!!
hello I think I am having the same problem but I read to try to replace the starter cut off relay. how can hear what the clicking you heard sounded like?
Hafy H. There is a relay module under the hood in the hood compartment fuse box. There are steps to test the actual switch in the car to determine if the switch is defective and or the relay module.The fuse box in the engine area has each item listed with the cap removed on the inside if I am not mistaken.
Alex I with the car door open just pull up the cover panel is about two feet long enough to allow you to some access.You do not have to remove it just (lift it on the end towards the fuse box panel.I remove the fuse panel door that slides out.Then pull out lightly the panel covering the fuses and relays.It is held in by clips that the fuse panel itself alloy you to slide into place.It really is not difficult just take your time Once you remove the kick panel as I call it you will see the plastic clip that holds it tight towards the firewall.NOTE you kick panel will go back in and under the step panel that your door covers.That is why you soley lift the end up as it has (plastic plugs that will pop out (not seen) up and give you the room to slip your kick cover back in and under that lip.Just take a minute and look at how it is fitted first.You may have to get the rubber seal towards the door on the kick panel to fit flush over top of this.It really takes about few minutes to reinstall and just tap it down by hand.You will have to work around the hood latch but,a few try's it will go right back in.Slightly tired so I hope this helps.
Hey Ron1987 thanks for the upload. My 2005 honda accord is having problems with cranking and it literally happened right after oil change, never happened before. I went to autozone ran a diagnostic tests and battery good ( 2 week new battery) alternator is good, and starter is good. Some times it would take more than 3 cranks to start my car. Sometimes it's perfectly normal without difficulties, but when it's having hard time it struggles. What do you think it could be ?please help
The pgm-f1 relay is your primary for the fuel injection.When go to crank the car and hear a buzz sound it is going to fail.Even with a new starter etc.
Brayan O.First if your accord has the original starter and it does (not) sound like my example and or takes several seconds to crank your issue is the starter.What happens is the heat from the intake manifold over time wears out the electrical on the starter and creates a (slow crank) and this can vary.1st if your starter is not engaging and cranking the car every time smooth and quick this is your problem.I will say having a battery that is not weak or almost out of date due to age does not help.Now after you replace the starter and the car is (still) slow to crank up you would need to replace the Main #1 relay for the EFI.This part number from Napa is AR6229.It is brown in color and is the center relay on the top level above the fuse's inside the car.To explain this is easy.What happens is the slow cranking starter that is wearing out heats up the Pgmi or efi main #1 relay when cranking and just wears out the relay due to Heat.I would only replace this relay after a new reman starter is installed(only) IF you hear a buzzing sound or clicking sound when cranking or a slow crank issue still continues that is present replace this relay.If you have any further questions just ask!To end the starter is typically the problem and only after this is replaced you at this point if the problem persist you would then go to replace the said relay I described.I suggest watching both of my videos and then recheck your cars issue and determine what applies to your situation.You can always go to advance auto and auto zone for a the free charging system checks to ensure the battery and alternator are in good order.I doubt the alternator is a problem but the battery could be just for a good reassurance.R
I must say I am sorry for the delayed responses.Mit bun I will correct You on the relay I think your are describing as the ACC relay part number AR6242 a napa part number.In my opinion what is happening is the starter is (slow) to crank and heats up the ACC relay and will make it click or not respond on cranking.If you have the original starter and the car turns over multiple times before it cranks you have 3 issues (maybe).One the starter is worn out and making the PGM -Fi1 relay main number 1 relay get hot.2nd trying to crank and holding the key to crank gets the the ACC relay or accessory power socket to get hot and make the car hard to start as this is BEFORE the run position with the key in the normal position.Lastly the slow and or dragging cranking.
Nav D if you have a cranking issue after replacing the pgm-f1 relay and still no cranking the next step is replacing the ACC relay.This is the Napa part number AR6242 and under $8.00 when I bought mine.This relay is on the Top level and the last relay and black in color.I do point out each relay in both of my video's and if you have any further questions just ask!Hope the first suggestion helps.
Hi Ron1987 I have changed both of them still has the same problem. I checked my battery with multi-meter when cranking voltage drop down to 8-9v and when not cranking battery still shows 12.5v. It is a new battery too, I couldn't figure it out. Any help please
Quick question. My car is having an issue when it has trouble turning over when it is hot outside. Everywhere I looked, it suggest that my issue is with the main fuel relay, but you have identified 2 main fuel relays, and now I'm not sure which one to replace.
Ron1987, thanks for your videos. I am currently about to R&R the starter on my wife's 07 accord SE. It has been slow starting on and off for a while. Recently replaced the battery and today would not crank after just driving. Tried a minute later and was normal but still sounding slower than when I replaced the battery. I added the 4G battery to frame and the additional one you did to the same mount bolt today. I have the starter and gasket but can't get to it until Saturday. I would also like to upgrade the battery as you did. Could you provide the part number or part size for the battery tray you purchased? Thanks again!
With your camera and lighting, you can actually see the relay's "usage description" stamped next to them on the panel. Lol, I wouldn't of ever found that while crammed all up in the floor board. very helpful. ty.
Fisher I do not really understand your question.I showed in good detail the power window relay in my video.It is on the lower level of the relays to the right hand side of the blue relay looking at it directly.I think your issue is not related to this post but,will try to answer your question.First I need to know what your issue is with the power window or windows.I will say if for (example) you have one window that will not roll up or down that would point to either a bad window switch or a bad window regulator for that specific window.Ok
Twink yes I realized after I did my research and video in really small stamped letters below each relay is marked (hard to see).But I bought a factory service manual which has good info and made things easier.At least making this video was simple and fixing the problems were not that bad after figuring out the problem.Thanks
Mine was just replaced with a reman starter but now it will not start after driving a few miles. No crank at all. All dashboard lights will still go on. Leaving it for 30-60 minutes, will make the starter crank and start the engine again. Could this be a starter relay? thanks
Kenneth B.I assume you checked the fuse in the car?It's position is number 11 and it is a 30amp.The accord does not not use a relay for the wipers.To explain this is the wiper switch plugs into a control module that is in the steering column and or behind the air bag.My recommend is take to your local Honda dealer as they have the equipment to diagnose this and actually save you some headache.Just my take and hope this helps.
before we found out it kept popping. my dad was checking the fuses under the hood. he had took out the a/c fuse and placed it back in cause my a/c wasn't working. when that happened we turned the car on. it runs. but the tcs, abs, check engine lights came on and stayed on. and my (D) light flashes. this had never happen before and none of my lights were on when he checked the fuse for the a/c. now my car barely wants to go. so we checked out all the fuses and found out the acg fuse kept popping. that's how it came about. would you know why?
I believe I have a bad relay. I had multiple electrical failures occur at the same time. Can you give me some direction? While driving, radio power failed, lighter power failed, Tcs light came on, error codes for multiple cylinder misfires. Rides very rough.
Kyle M.I will do my best to help.First when you apply the horn (with the door open for hearing sound) and the car is not turned On or the key On do you hear a clicking sound?If you hear a clicking sound this would indicate your relays as there is 1.This controls both the horn (high) and one for horn (low) these are the pitch sounds from each horn.I first would open your hood and check the main fuse box(engine compartment) on the driver side for the fuse Number 13 this is a 20AMP fuse and on the under side of the fuse box cover it shows each location of each fuse.If the fuse is not blown,this can indicate several issue's.Your horn High and low as there are 2 as I said these are under the black cover where the hood latch is.If you open the hood and prop up you see the latch mechanism and the black cover with plastic plugs holding it in place.In order to check the actual horns(2) you have to disconnect the plugs to each of the high and low horns.You have to using a piece of good wiring to place on the positive of the battery and then insert to the terminal A grounding the horn bracket and the horn should work.Honestly to try and explain this would take a lot of time and unless your mechanically inclined I would not try this.I will say you can at least check the fuse box under the hood and make sure the Fuse number 13 is not blown.If it is not ,I would not think your horns are bad or even the relay which ties into your brake lights,and cruise control but the harness in your actual steering wheel behind the air bag itself.If you cannot do the technical work I would strongly suggest taking it to your local Honda dealer (YES) and get it done correct the 1st time with a warranty and not really crazy cost to have a working horn and fixed.I say this because if the harness in the steering column is bad or a poor connection the air bag may have to be removed to fix the problem.I do apologize for the Long write up however this is semi complicated and explaining it takes a lot to typing.I wish this was simple but,if your fuse is Not blown I would bet your high and low horn are fine and relay that makes it work as well.I am betting the harness in the actual steering wheel around the air bag are the issue.I have a shop manual and while I understand it explaining it is a dictionary.I hope this helps in some way.Best of luck and I do take our Honda to the dealership Only if I cannot do something beyond my scope too.R
Hey Rob1987,I changed my starter like you suggested and the start up is so nice when it does start up. Sounded brand new and I thought something was off. I bought the main relay and turns out I can't return it at honda dealer. Thank you for the advice and help. Great videos and keep up the awesome work
Richard O. I cannot recall a scenario where your issues All happened as you indicated.I did some mild checks in my shop manual but with out some codes and or knowledge of this I have one suggestion at this time.Being it all points from my view to a Electrical aspect.Check your cars battery (key OFF) should show at least 12.6 volts to be considered Good.Then crank and recheck the voltage and see if it comes UP to lets say 13.0 volts or higher using a multimeter.Granted just going to the auto parts places do Free charging and starting system checks if you do not have a multimeter.Just a simple Tip that could maybe indicate a possible failing battery or alternator (I would lean more towards the battery) as most accord alternators last a really long time.If I learn of any other ideas or direction I will comment.R
John S.glad to help and I would not fret over the pgm-f1 main number 1 relay for the fuel injection! I will say on these 2.4 k series engines what happens is the slow cranking starter heats up that relay which in turn could make it click on cranking.Just keep the part and if you ever have a clicking noise (IN) the car but the car cranks good that relay is probably the issue.Our 04 had both the slow crank and relay (click) on cranking so both were replaced.Problem solved!!!!! I doubt you will need to use the new relay but,having it cost you nothing if you needed it later down the line.Thanks for view and glad to help.
Please help me young shizzie on CZcams I have clicking in my 2004 honda accord ex & sometimes it starts rite up but one time it made this click 3 times and it didn’t start and I heard this weird eletric sound
@Young Shizzie With out writing a novel I'll try to make it Simple.My guess is your starter has slowly been going (bad or worn out) .Now due to the starter cranking Slower it Heats up the relay for the pgmi or lamens term Fuel injection. As time goes by the continuation of the slow cranking will cause the fuel injection to Fail in turn the car will not crank even if the starter continues to crank (the fuel injection is burned up) and will not put fuel into the injectors.NOW the easy correction replace your starter and the primary fuel injection relay AT the SAME time in terms do all the work the same day.Ultimately once the relay fails its either a tow bill,or u have to go buy a 45.00-55.00 relay just to get it to run.I do not NOT recommend just replacing the relay and wait ,bc the starter if it's that slow is going to crap out soon.Any further questions feel Free to ask.I do have a current price list of most auto stores wh carry the relay and cost.Granted the prices are constantly changing due to inflation. R
@@Ron1987 thank you Ron so I’m getting the starter tmmrw and what relay should I order should k replace both relays or just one ? I can post a video on my car starting sometimes it starts rite up but it’s a short long start about 2 seconds maybe 3, also Ron my radio sometimes when I start it touch screen radio is turnt all the way up , it’s weird and my lights flicker when I start it sometimes why ?
@Young Shizzie OK Napa Parr # AR6229 $49.99,Advance auto R6229 $45.99,oreillys auto parts 25-0384 $45.99 OR RY724 $36.99.This relay falls under the primary fuel injection and they'll probably look it up to Verify it.
@@Ron1987 ok so that’s for the one relay almost 30$ sheesh and did you re read my comment I edited it about my radio blasting when I start the car and my lights flickering when I start it ? & so just replace the one relay and starter and I should be fine
Hey I have Honda Acoord 2004, My Honda accord is shutting off randomly while driving and engine light comes on when I check it by device it has error says ECP/PCM POWER MAIN RELAY. Can u pls tell me which main relay I have to change it thank u
General V.I only had to replace the pgm-f1 main relay (fuel injection relay) because the slow cranking made the fuel injection relay above get hot and click on cranking the car after I replaced the starter.The second issue was my starter finally had a dead spot.You turn the key on and nothing happens.You try multiple times to crank and nothing happens.This specific issue can and did burn up the (ACC) the accessory power socket relay AR6242 (napa) and replaced this relay after I I did the starter and pgm-f1 relay (napa part AR6229).To keep this simple if your accord is slow cranking just replace the starter and IF and ONLY if after this you hear a clicking sound in the car when cranking replace the AR6229 napa relay for the pgm-f1 main relay,Unless your starter has the NO start on trying to crank over and over and nothing like a (dead battery issue) stick to the two items I stated.The fuel pump relay generally does NOT create a problem.Just replacing a worn starter (FIXES) the problem.I just months ago had my nephews 06 accord slow crank and the starter with 139k was worn out.Replaced the starter ONLY and done!I did not have to replace any relays and the car runs fine! If you have any further questions just ask.R
You had mentioned in the other video that you may change the battery cable. will you be making a video of that? do you know how long that cable is? I have a 2005 accord. I just need you as my neighbor.
thank you for these info 👍🏻 These Honda/Acura cars are really well made with excellent parts, nearly the best - Newer cars are sadly made to EAT PARTS 😂
John S. Try checking Fuse #13 it is a 20amp in the fuse box under the hood. This controls the rear lights and or brake lights.If the fuse is fine it could be either a grounding issue or wire problem or one of the primary connectors.Ok
I have a 2005 Honda accord lx 2.4 it just cranks but won’t start any suggestions? I believe I hear the fuel pump since I smell gas after cranking it so long.
Alright quick question and then my take.Has your car had a Slower start over time and is The Starter the Original starter.IF you said YES to these here's what to do.Being the Slower cranking wether long or short term it Heats up the pgmi f1 (fuel injection relay).As a result it essentially Burns up the fuel injection relay over time until it FAILS.If this is the original starter Replace it!!!.If you soley replace the fuel injection relay ( not cheap) it will burn up that relay too.So that said your cars symptoms are Your Fuel injection relay is BAD. I show in my videos where it is and if you need the Relay part number I can List the stores and who carries it and cost.Reman starters vary on cost but most have a lifetime warranty. Also the Dry side of the intake manifold gasket has to be replaced when it's removed other wise it will leak or suck air.Just ask if you need anything else.R
Hey rob1987, I got the main relay from honda dealer and it is called the ECM RELAY engine control module it looks exactly like it. It didn't do anything to my car so I am assuming it's the starter like you said. Honda wants 135 for diagnostic tests which I find to be ridiculous. You don't think it's the fuel pressure regulator?
my aircon doesn't work, someone suggested a faulty aircon relay ? in order to test it i took out another relay and put in in the slot where the air con relay was, no different aircon still doesn't work . So i put the relay back where i got it. After that i get check engine warning light and having problems with my idle speed . Anyone got some advise ?? Did i messed up the relay by trying it in the aircon slot ??
What year just for info purposes.Second on the IN car fuse box did you check Fuse #30 its a 7.5amp fuse and under the Hood (fuse box) Fuse #12 7.5amp.As for swapping the under hood Relay I do not know what its rating is,so swapping it might not have been a good idea.I would check the above normal fuses to see if there blown.If not it could your AC refrigerant level is too Low and it will not let the compressor turn On as a safety for compressor.I would check it to verify the Level of the R134.As for the idle issue I would disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes then reconnect,If its not a hard code it should clear up the ecm and should run normally,unless you created a problem.Thats what I suggest at this time.
Excellent Video. I also have long crank problem before starting the engine. I replaced the starter, and spark plugs. it worked great but after a few months, it happens variously. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. but it still happens. I just found out that it makes buzzing sound till a key light on dashboard is off. I am not sure if this is related with any relay related with the long crank problem. I have droven this car 112,000 miles. any tip is very much appreiciated. thanks
The battery tray I purchased was from auto zone.It is a Lynx brand replacement battery tray the numbers on my receipt are following #095989 0657 for a cost of $7.29..It is a pretty big plastic tray and I think the only (big) choice to upgrade too.I will say upgrading the battery with the cca has a good side in either hot or cold weather to boot!!!I would also suggest replacing the J Hooks the battery hold down hardware as the (oem) is too short!! Take your originals and buy a longer version as it is about a inch or two too short.I used a hacksaw to on (recall) to cut it down a touch for (MY) choice of fit on the New j-hook kit.Thanks and glad this helped you address your issue.R1987
Watching this video I couldn’t figure it now but now you told me k have a 2004 Honda accord ex 2.4l my car is clicking but it starts sometimes it doesn’t , it makes this weird eletric sound why
Hey rob1987, Thank you for the prompt response. I believe you're right and I will do that today, I'll let you know how it goes. I just don't understand how or why the results from autozone were all fine as far as starter crank, battery and alternator. I'm just afraid I may damage when replacing starter on my car. Do you have video of you replacing it ? I know there is plenty of videos on CZcams but yours are really good and super thoroughly. I enjoy both of the bad main relay videos. Thank your for the advice and help. I travel about one hour for class and always scared I'll get stranded
yes I have a 2004 Honda Accord 2.4 the problem I have is that when I don't start it for 3 or 4 days I come back and get batteries drain I check the battery to starter or charging system is good what could be the problem
How is it possible that I remove the "starter relay" and the car still starts? I have a 07 Accord and all info says, it has the same relay position. I removed it and it still started. Again, how's this possible?
Hey I have 2004 Honda Accord with a bad battery I went to change the battery and now my car won't start at all with the new battery and doesn't have any power but the horn works lol can you give me some insight?
I suggest replacing the PGM-F1 main #1 relay.Over time the slow crank will wear this part out.Just check out my 1st video I show where it is.Driver side at the lower kick panel on the top row center position.Any further questions just ask.Even with a new starter I had to replace mine I did show the part # listed from napa.
Have a problem with my 2004 accord euro the dash lights starting all flickering and headlights even turned off for a split second at first it was just the radio that would just cut off for a second then all the lights on the dash flickering any suggestions on what I need to buy to fix???
Got in late so short this is for today.I would remove your battery ground at the battery to the fender(ensure) there clean and no corrosion.I would also check your battery and alternator voltage to ensure there at least 12.6 volts or higher(most read 12.8-13 not running.I will try to look into the possible reason and suggest ideas tues.1 thought is with the Key in the Run position lightly move the key to See if it has any play in the switch itself and if it Duplicates the problem when doing so.R
@@Ron1987 yeah they said at mechanic today power or voltage isn't enough to power through somewhere in the engine having a different guy check it out tomorrow just hope it's not an expensive fix
Sir my backup camera in my Honda Odyssey 2011 is black but still shows the yellow lines. Do you think it’s the camera or something other than the camera? Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Darren the manuals I have only cover the 03-07 model accords.The back up camera was not available at that time.If I come across some information in regard to the issue your having I will post it.
Where can I locate the main relay in a 2007 Honda accord EX? The check engine light came on,I had a diagnostic done at AutoZone & it said it was the main relay,a mechanic said it needed to be resoldered,but I can't locate it. I've searched endlessly. Thank you.
Hi Ron, I had this problem on our 07 accord LX 2.4, took to the stealership and got battery replaced( it was old and had low voltage), took couple of month and the problem is back again, sometimes it will crank very slow on couple of tries then it won't crank at all, wait about 10 min try starting and it starts normal, it happens when cold or hot, got he starter off the engine and took it to StealZone and got it tested, test said my starter is good so now I'm afraid I would spend $200 and still have the problem, had to order the intake gasket and got a new battery neg. cable, I will add the extra ground wire, do you think I should try replacing the relays and adding the ground wire before replacing the starter? Also I have a bad airbag module from the low voltage problem, this is all related, right?
hi LUIZ were u able to sort out this problem ? l am having a similar problem with my 2003 accord. once it starts the whole day it will be fine and it seems it has more to do with cold weather
If your starter is the original IF though tested has over 100K it is worn OUT! The 2.4 k series engines are known to wear out starters with over 100K or more miles.In a LONG winded comment here I go.On the said 2.4k engine these starters just wear out and create that dead battery and or weak alternator low voltage.I would guarantee your problem is just WORN out starter!!!I would Just replace the starter and dry intake manifold gasket and not worry with the relays Unless hear after the inside the car(a very obvious buzz sound) when cranking only ) do not worry with the relays.As for the air bag light That I do no know.Keep in mind Honda might Fix your air bag issue as this a safety issue Free of charge.!I would contact your local dealer and tell them your air bag issue and see if they can assist you and cover the cost and correct the problem.
Ron, is there any chance you could put in part numbers for the relays in the written description section of your video? I'm having trouble finding them on Google. Thanks.
Omg thank you for this video. I’m not clear on wth is going on with my 2007 accord -after market key fob recently programmed by myself to unlock & lock the car, no alarm- but now the no crack no start is happening & i dont know where to start...
Citizen,exactly what issue occurs when you try to crank the car?For example, does it just do nothing or turn over and not crank up.I would start simple and verify with a multimeter your battery is in good condition.It should show at least 12.6 volts or greater with the key turned on,and the car not running.I could list more,however just try to describe what is occurring when attempting to start the car.
Ron1987 it previously had a slow start & crank, would have a hard time starting up, then just stalled couple times & pretty soon no start no crank. The battery was good enough so I ended up replacing the ignition & the starter...
Suggestions are as followed.First verify either with a multimeter that the battery shows at least 12.9 volts (car not running) and higher when idling.If you do have a meter go to advance auto or auto zone for a FREE charging system check.If all is OK, this would indicate your starter is in need of replacement.If this starter is the original I would not hesitate to replace it.If your car gets to a point of doing nothing when cranking(no click) the starter is toast.The noise your hearing is a great indicator its going to fail soon.
Hi Ron, My 2003 Honda Accord right turn blinker wont turn off and drains the battery. happened end of a 4 rainy days. Any adivse on if this is a relay or switch issue?
Poorna C.A question and then my thoughts.Doe's your turn signal on the said side blink fast on when using the turn signal on the RHS and it is on the Front or rear of the car.If any condensation or water has compromised the socket seal and or bulb and caused a short this could be a issue.I doubt it is your actual turn signal switch inside the car but,think it is the actual turn signal bulb socket on the RHS that may just be not be making proper contact and this can happen.Sometimes the socket for the bulb can loose and not the bulblight up or not work and it is just the contacts inside the socket for the bulb causing the problem.I can say I just replaced my wifes 04 accord with NEW headlight assemblies and had a issue with the marker light/turn signal socket staying lite up but (NOT) blinking and brand new!!!! This is the whole headlight part and I had to doodle with it socket to make it work and not one issue since and that's over two weeks ago.I doubt your problem is a fuse and or relay issue.I would check the actual marker light/turn signal socket as this is a 2 purpose bulb it stays ON when the marker lights are on used on the front headlight assembly.To get to the front head light area for the turn signal requires removing the inner splash guard to reach up to the said bulb and the front wheel really needs to be removed to alloy proper access to get to the said bulb.If I left anything off and or you have further questions just ask.I will say reaching the front end market light and turn signal bulb socket is a real pain! As the reason I said take OFF the front wheel to alloy more room to access the area UP to the front marker light (orange in color) and turn signal as these are the SAME bulb that stay on orange when the lights are on and blink for the turn signal.
Joel S your starter is going BAD!I will say on the accord with the 2.4 k series engine the starter does NOT show the typical fail problem.In my very to the point opinion get the starter replaced!!!!! This will fix the problem.I will say in a short explanation,IF your car has a slow crank to fire,OR longer crank revolution to fire and NO clicking the starter is about to fail.These 2.4 engine's do NOT show the typical fail point of the starter in general.I will point out these 03-up to current will do what your car is doing (as mine did he same).Just replace the starter and intake manifold gasket (dry gasket) and done.Final result replace your starter and fix the problem!!!!!!If you do this job about 2hours and the cost of the starter and intake manifold gasket kit.If you have any further questions please Ask!I
I have 2 questions and not necessarily a resolve to the problem.When you crank the car and it cranks (DO YOU HEAR) a clicking noise in the car?I ask this because unless your pgmi fuel injection relay on the top level of the relay box is going bad OR your ACC relay has gone bad as well.To explain the key turned on with the dash lights on is Good,but you have to turn the key past the ACC spot on the key switch and IF (a maybe) the acc relay has went bad would not alloy power past that to the run position on the key switch.Not to discount you might even have a brand new reman starter that is defective.To verify the starter is not faulty or at fault try this.Use a long screw driver or socket extension and put on the starter housing thru the intake manifold and tap the end with a hammer.IF it immediately cranks after a NO crank issue the starter is a bad NEW part.To me having to wait to crank make's me think it more a pgmi relay number 2 the one I replaced as it bit the dust as a result of the slow cranking.I will say soon after I replaced my oem starter the said relay was clicking every start up and I replaced it and problem resolved!!!The simple answer is I think your pgmi fuel injection relay probably is bad OR your acc switch relay.The pgmi fuel injection relay #2 is AR6229 and The acc relay is AR6242.Both are from NAPA soley.Check for the specific part numbers online or your local napa for your year specific as the part number may be different.I think your issue a RELAY problem not the replacement starter.Not to say a brand new reman starter will not fail my reason to say tap the starter and IF it cranks immediately the starter either is bad or has a loose connection or bad ground maybe.Sorry for the book however I like being thorough.
@@byronjones8246 The simple answer is to replace the starter,And I would replace the pgmi-f1 relay as well(since its clicking) it will fail.The job requires replacing the intake manifold gasket as well(the dry gasket side) and of course the starter.If you take it to a shop they will charge at least two hours labor,plus parts if they do it all.IF you have any further questions I will gladly try to help! R
@@Ron1987 if the fuel pump relay was bad would the fuel pump still come on? Cause I getting noise from that one and the acc relay. But my fuel pump is humming when u turn the ig on.
@@byronjones8246 I will say that the fuel pump relay will make some noise(minor) when the key goes to the On position.I think its highly unlikely the fuel pump relay is failing.On the ACC relay I will say the delayed cranking or slow cranking (could or can) make the ACC relay get Hot and it will Fail.Mine failed due to my starter had a dead spot and I tried multiple times to get the starter to engage(which got the ACC relay too hot and it failed).I suggest get a new starter replace both the pgmi F1 relay (which is for the injectors to work) and the ACC relay which will make the car Do Nothing when it craps out.Hope this helps long 14 day .Any further ?s just ask.R
To (therequessarr).First is your accord having a slow cranking issue?Second does your car have the original starter and how many miles are on the car?I do not suggest replacing (ANY) relays unless you have replaced the starter and then (After) that is done you here a click or buzz sound and in the car only when cranking and also still cranks slowly..The typical issue with the Honda accord from 03-to current with the 2.4liter is a slow cranking engine almost like a weak battery.The primary problem is the starter itself.Once the starter is replaced and the battery is not weak or close to being needed replacing this normally fixes the problem.In short what happens is the slow cranking makes the 1# fuel injection relay get (HOT)!!! This is typically what you could hear clicking better known as the EFI relay.Please just view my 1st video and I point out the specifics and rewatch this video.The slow cut relay does not play a issue with this problem to my knowledge.If you have any further questions just ask!!!!!!! I do list the part numbers for the relays I replaced and most auto stores aside from just napa will carry what you would need.If your car has not had the starter replaced and it is slow cranking start with the known problem first.Thanks for viewing my page and too many questions are not a problem to help you.R
Hey ron i have a good battery in my 05 honda accord ex. But when i start i hear the crank noise and it wont start so please tell me do i need to change the starter or just the relay will help
Its Abdu if the car has clicking sound,and or nothing then it cranks after turning the key multiple times.It sounds like the starter is failing.As long as the battery has been checked with a multimeter or by a machine to Verify the condition as Good,that rules out that.If you were to just replace the relay the car would still have the Same slow or no cranking and any noise that is Not normal.That said if it is the original starter or you know it has never been replaced I would replace it.At this point after a new starter is installed and the car has Any slower to crank issue Or just turns over but does not run then Replace the Relay AR6229 Napa part.If you listen close to the fuse box when you crank the car if you hear a slight buzzing sound its probably this relay.Pgm-f1 relay.hope this helps as I have been busy lately.
If your having slow cranking it is your starter! I would just go simple and replace that and you have to do the intake manifold gasket(the outer one) not the one against the block.Once you do the starter unless you here a clicking ON start ups inside the car leave the relays alone.The relays only fail if they get too hot and then stop making contact internally and make the clicking sound on cranking.Trying to keep your cost low as your ride still cranks and just do what is the real now typical issue.
Tq for info. I have one question to ask, my car like u, the main relay pgm fi is sound like buzzer when i ignition the switch? Can u tell me what the problem
Questions I have a lot.But if your Honda has the 2.4 liter engine and the the starter has never been replaced you could have 2 issue's.The slow cranking over time make'sthe PGM F1 main fuel injection relay click when cranking.Granted I do these engine's starter's can fail early but with our car it was just over a 100k .If your car has that weak start and the battery is (known) to be fine I think your starter is failing and making the said relay click on cranking in theory.I would at least get the charging system checked at advance auto or auto zone for free to verify the battery is OK!If you have any further questions just ask and I will do what I can to help.R
Hi. I have a P0496 CODE for my 04 accord 2.4L. The Purge Valve is working correctly after testing it. Any advice on what else I can do to fix the problem?
I assume you have the SULEV model (emissions wise)?IF so even if the purge valve operates meaning you tested it by putting power to it,does not mean it still has a issue.That part has a Oring and if its not sealing it (could) create a poor seal thus the code you have.I would check ALL the hoses on the evap system,FTP sensor,evap canister and ALL electrical plugs to each sensor.I would pull them off and reinstall (electrical plugs).Even though you are not indicating a code P0457 Fuel cap loose I would at least make Sure it clicks 3 times this can create leaks IN the evap system!Hope this gives you some general guide and If the do replace the Purge valve the ecm/pcm needs to have a idle learn thru the diagnostic port.
@@Ron1987 yes I Tested the purge valve with a 9v battery and learned that it i can blow air through it when i turn it on but can't when it is off. And I just replaced the fuel cap. I checking for vacuum leaks on the Ftp and evap canisters. I did notice a small oil puddle around the rear of the valve cover by the Purge Valve maybe that has something to do with it? Thank you for the advice much appreciated 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Bottom line is that your efforts are to be commended....as well as your patience ....great vids...great replies.......certainly your info will help me resolve my friends 2005 Honda CRV issues...........
Thanks and hope it helps.I know the crv uses the same 2.4 k series engine and not uncommon to affect that vehicle as well.
Yes same stuff....it appears that our engine has most if not all of its slow starts in the morning.....meaning engine DOES turn over but does not fire.......she says after about 6 tries it finally fires...then for the rest of the day no issues starting..... Do you think I should start with the efi relay first?
Geez. After few days searching what is wrong with my immobiliser (green key light blinking) Thanks to you video I realised that PGM Fuel Injection Relay is the one to blame. Thanks a lot sir for you time and effort.
Your welcome and glad this helped.
Citizen I recommend replacing the pgm-f1 main #1 relay.This controls the fuel injection and if it starts to fail it causes the car to just crank over and not run.And also based on your cars symptoms I think your slow cranking before puts a lot of wear on this relay specifically.My car had this relay start to fail ironically at the same time the starter failed and replaced.The part number is AR6229 from napa. However other parts stores carry this relay just probably a different number.The relay is pointed out in my video and is on the top row in the middle.Hope this corrects the problem.R
I had this same issue I checked my battery, starter, and alternator and all were good. It ended up being the starter relay so I went to advance auto parts and bought the relay for $7 and now my car runs great!
Steve Just keep in mind the starters on the K series 2.4 are Known for premature starter failure(age wise) or mileage.If your car operates fine for now,but begins to show the Non typical slow crank and your car has the Original starter I would not hesitate to replace it.And also over time the slower cranking starter does Wear out the PGM-F1 (fuel injection relay) due to the slow crank it heats up That relay and will cause the car just to turn over and over(not fire) or not crank.I will say on our 04 it had no click or drag,really nothing to indicate it was failing.It finally hit a dead spot and I had to pop the top of it with a long extension and hammer to get it to shift internally past the dead spot to a good electrical point and it cranked.This was Final indication the starter was Toast.Simple check and got the starter the next day.
Ron1987 i think I will replace the starter to avoid further problems later on. Thanks for the video!
Ron1987 what the part number for pgm f1 relay?
Ok heres some info.From Napa its AR6229 (Echlin brand) $49.99, Advance auto is R6229 (do not recall brand) $45.99 or go to ebay and type in AR6229 relay and only shows 1 seller cost is $48.00. This is the PGM-F1 relay for the fuel injection.Ok
Victor R.Sorry for overlooking your question! It in my opinion your car not cranking after sitting for several days and the battery is to weak to crank the car the battery could be your problem.A battery needs to have at least 12.6volts to crank on the lowest number to start.I would suggest charge the battery for 24 hours and then check then take the car or battery to have a load test on the battery to ensure it does not have a dead spot or is out of date age wise and needs to be replaced.Now if you do this and the battery passes next are my suggestions.If the you try to start the car and it does not even crank the engine,check the battery voltage with a multimeter.If it as said 12.6 volts up to 14.0 (average) then your charging system is not the problem.Next step if the voltage is good,take a long screw driver and or socket extension and place on top of the starter motor.Tap (LIGHTLY) with a hammer on the end of either tool on the starter and after this try to crank the car.If it cranks this would mean your starter has a dead spot where electricity will not conduct meaning the starter is (BAD).I will say in short these 2.4 liter engine starters do not grind,or miss a tooth then crank(but it could) but in my situation the starter finally hit the said dead spot.This can create the illusion of a bad battery or non charging alternator problem and can easily be overlooked.Hope this helps and any further questions just ask.
Glad to assist and make this a low cost correction.Thanks for updating the final result-fixed.
Steven M.A few questions and maybe some ideas.Does the cars engine actually turn over,but not crank?(like it is out of fuel).If your car has had a slow crank going on at anytime for awhile I suggest replacing your PGM-F1 relay inside the car. It is located above the fuse box behind the kick panel.However if the car is trying to crank but will not turn the engine over it could be a weak battery (get it tested) and or a failing starter.I would at least use a multimeter to check the voltage.It needs to be at least 12.9volts for a battery to be considered good with the key OFF.Last idea is if the starter is just grinding and not cranking,try using a long extension(tool) or even wood and place on the top of the starter then tap the end(use a hammer) of what you use closest to you.If the starter has a dead spot or weak it could allow it to slip past this temporarily.Try to crank the car after tapping it,if it cranks your starter is bad.Hope this helps but,start with the battery check 1st,then tapping the starter.If you have any further questions and more details let me try to assist.
Brilliant. Thanks, Ron. Finally found what I've been looking for.
Glad it has clarified things.Thx
Thank you so much! That information is well received and needed. I'm noticing that Honda I some what of a secret society. If you don't ask the right question they don't offer the info!
Well I am sure most dealerships will not elaborate the reasons this issue is (common) and makes a person think it is multiple things or something major.Primary reason I shared ALL the details and as many possibilities of what can or does occur.thanks for viewing.R
Thank you sir, i had no idea where my fuses were before this video. Its been very helpful.
Nav D. thanks for the follow up.GLad it was what I thought it was the alternator failing.We all get busy and and forget to follow up on things.Cool.Just glad the car is fixed and good.
Ken W.I will be simple and tell You your starter is going (BAD).The 2.4ltr K series engine is known for the starter's showing weird signs of failing.It will show signs as like multiple rotations of cranking before it fires up.It typically does not always do the no crank or clicking or a dead spot on the solenoid of the starter(however our 04 Did).I will say it is a (hit and miss) on diagnostics from any auto store as it is just that.My recommendation is replace the starter and the dry gasket for the intake manifold.The felpro gasket kit part is MS96473 sold at auto zone or advance auto.Now after replacing these 2 items (IF) you hear a clicking sound when cranking the car inside that would be your Pgm-F1 or main#1 relay for the fuel injection.It is the center relay on the top level of your fuse box and tan In color.The napa part number is AR6229.To finish just replace the starter and the intake manifold gasket and unless you here a very (distinct) click in the cabin when cranking the car (which would be the relay I said) do the needed items.What happens is the constant holding the key (ON) heats up the said relay and will make it get (hot) and start to click on cranking the car with a worn starter.I know this is a ton of information but I like to be very specific!!!!I just this past jan replaced my nephews 06 accord with a lagging crank same 2.4 enging but the relay was (fine) and did the starter and gasket and done!!! This car had 140k and bought used.I went to check out this car and knew this on my initial overview for my family member who bought the car.if you have any further questions just ask.
Annita O.I did not upgrade my red(positive cable).I however did replace my black ground cable to the fender.I also added a black ground to the shown point to the intake manifold.I used a number 4 gauge cable and cut to fit and used other materials to make it weather proof.As for checking the said relay (IF) this was a problem when you crank the car you (Could) hear a clicking sound when cranking (IF) the starter is failing due to age/mileage and or very slow cranking on your 2.4 liter engine(4 cylinder engine).I will say as a example on my nephews 2006 accord with the same 2.4 K engine or 4 cylinder it had a (SLOW) cranking before cranking up.The relay in the car (did not click at all).The starter was just worn out and I replaced the intake manifold gasket and starter and it works fine !!I did this back in Jan of 2016 and just last week did a service on this car and it works just fine.Not to be too technical but what happens is if your starter is beginning to go bad OR fail it make's the relay for the fuel injection get (HOT) which in turns could make it (go bad) and you could hear a click sound when cranking.It is my suggestion to just replace the (KNOWN) bad part the starter and only (IF) you have a slow cranking issue after that you would have to (replace) the relay I said for the fuel injection.I know this sounds complicated but my video's show and or explain what the car should sound like on a good work Honda accord.If you have any further questions just ask!!!!!!! In most cases it is just the starter is worn out and not the relay inside the car.
damn .. that car looks new .. I have an 05 that I keep garaged and it looks pretty good but yours looks immaculate everywhere
Thanks D jones I certainly do like to keep our cars super clean.
Right! Here I am with my dingy '04 with a failing driverside window. Haha.
Dela K let me look into this as I am tired and just checking things quickly tonight.I do not want to suggest anything at this point.But the main #1 fuel injection relay or pgm-f1 could be the problem.This is the center relay on the top level inside the car above the fuse box and tan or brown in color.These do tend to create issue's with the car cranking and or running in general and Not a uncommon problem with the 2.4 liter or k series engine.I would consider checking this video and my 1st video or more information unless I can determine a alternate idea.I do point out Each relay inside the car and the relay part number in the 1st video on slow cranking and or relay problems.I will follow up later.
Antonio I would recommend the ACC relay part number from napa is AR6242 and this is your accessory power socket relay.This is when you turn the key and have power to the radio but ,before cranking the engine.In simpe what happens if the engirne cranks over and over it gets this relay (HOT) if your starter is going (BAD) and causes lag in the cranking and can cause the PGM-F1 main relay to go bad or click or not work along with the THE relay I listed.A straight forward description is on my wifes 04 slow cranking,made the Said pgm-f1 main #1 to click and ALSO the accessory power socket relay OR (ACC RELAY) .The slow cranking makes both of these relays get hot and create alternate problems.In short I doubt your starter cut relay is bad and the ACC or accessory power stocket relay is on the TOP level last relay going towards the firewall or engine bay.OK
Ahish, you have to lift up the step plate that runs along beside the driver seat.It pops up and does have grooved ends that help hold it in place from each end.Once that is removed the kick panel that covers the fuses and relays pull out kind of like a sliding door motion.You reinstall the kick panel first then the step plate when done.I may make a video to illustrate this as the question on how to remove these plastic items to just get to the relays has been asked before.Hope this helps for now.
Thank you so much for your time and this reply. Appreciate it!
Nick D.Some questions and some thoughts first.If your car has the original starter to (me) this would be my first thought to address.But as said questions are a few.Did you actually get the battery checked and or verify the voltage with a multimeter prior to replacing the battery the car had?Reason I say this simple.A starter can create a issue where the car does nothing when trying to crank and imitate a bad alternator and or bad battery.If when you turn the key ON the cluster lights up,headlights work and all other electrical work is Good.My suggestion is take a long screw driver and or a long socket extension and place on top of the starter below the intake manifold and tap the end of the tool used with a hammer.Tap 2-3 times lightly!! and IF the car then cranks this means your Starter has Failed and needs to be replaced! DO not delay getting this done as if your starter has a dead spot and or where no electrical power is making it work it can and will fail and never crank again.If you have any further questions just ask as I may have left off something.I think your starter is the problem.And also tapping the starter makes the solenoid click past the dead spot( or no electrical current) to engage the starter and will Not hurt it.
I have an '04 Accord EX 2.4 4cyl with the following error codes:
61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction
P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Ckt/Open (Current 135-1)
P0685 Engine & Powertrain Control Modules, Power Relay Control Circuit/Open
What do these codes tell you? Which relay should I get replaced & do you have the part # please? Thank You
Luis if your 12volt power socket is not working I will say it is the #32 fuse top level of the fuses next to last fuse.If your relay that controls the acc top right last relay on the Relay's your car would typically not start or intermittent crank.In short your relay is probably fine(it would click and the car may not crank) if your radio works your #32 fuse will NOT be blown.Check your cars owners manual for the fuse diagram or the fuse box diagram as it is in both locations.IF your 12 volt power socket is not working it can be 1 or 2 things.Either your socket plug is loose or your socket has a bad electrical working aspect.You really have two choices.Check the plug connector to the 12 volt power socket and then verify with a multimeter a 12 volts power to the socket in the actual push in terminal to the 12 volt socket BUT plug removed to insert the multimeter test leads.If you have 12volts with the terminal plug removed using the - /+ and power coming out to the actual plug. Your plug in socket has a bad connection or worn out.In short you probably have power to the 12 socket but the socket is not working due to age,use and or worn components in the socket itself (and NOT a relay or fuse) if the power to the plug going to the socket has 12volts BUT the socket is not working this means you just need a NEW socket.I know this is long winded but to try and go into extreme detail is well not needed.Tired and forgive me for any goofs.
Antonio Just replace the PGM-F1 main relay.This relay is on the TOP level with 3 relays and the relay you NEED is in the middle and brown in color and the Napa part number is AR6229.I point out the specifics in the relays in this video and my 1st video with good detail.The simple explanation is the slow turning starter causes the the pgm-f1 main relay to get HOT and over time will make it click and not operate as it is supposed to do.I had another member replace his slow cranking starter and still have a slow crank.I pointed out the same relay and it was replaced after my suggestion to him and FIXED the problem.I seriously doubt the fuel pump or fuel pump relay are your issue based on my research and understanding of the system overall.Just go to napa and buy this part and if you have to rewatch my videos do so for any clarification.It is easy to do!!!! I will not say I am perfect but,the accord in the 03 - up to current generalluy do not have fuel pump issue's or fuel pump relays go bad.Just replace the relay I said and this Should Fix the problem and the car should run perfect!!!!!
Jose B. I do not know Spanish but I think you said thanks in the end.Your welcome
hello I think I am having the same problem but I read to try to replace the starter cut off relay. how can hear what the clicking you heard sounded like?
Ron your video was beneficial sir!! Thank You
Hafy H. There is a relay module under the hood in the hood compartment fuse box. There are steps to test the actual switch in the car to determine if the switch is defective and or the relay module.The fuse box in the engine area has each item listed with the cap removed on the inside if I am not mistaken.
Ron1987 how do I go about doing this?
Alex I with the car door open just pull up the cover panel is about two feet long enough to allow you to some access.You do not have to remove it just (lift it on the end towards the fuse box panel.I remove the fuse panel door that slides out.Then pull out lightly the panel covering the fuses and relays.It is held in by clips that the fuse panel itself alloy you to slide into place.It really is not difficult just take your time Once you remove the kick panel as I call it you will see the plastic clip that holds it tight towards the firewall.NOTE you kick panel will go back in and under the step panel that your door covers.That is why you soley lift the end up as it has (plastic plugs that will pop out (not seen) up and give you the room to slip your kick cover back in and under that lip.Just take a minute and look at how it is fitted first.You may have to get the rubber seal towards the door on the kick panel to fit flush over top of this.It really takes about few minutes to reinstall and just tap it down by hand.You will have to work around the hood latch but,a few try's it will go right back in.Slightly tired so I hope this helps.
Hey Ron1987 thanks for the upload. My 2005 honda accord is having problems with cranking and it literally happened right after oil change, never happened before. I went to autozone ran a diagnostic tests and battery good ( 2 week new battery) alternator is good, and starter is good. Some times it would take more than 3 cranks to start my car. Sometimes it's perfectly normal without difficulties, but when it's having hard time it struggles. What do you think it could be ?please help
Hi Ron, could you please let me know how did you removed the kick panel. Cheers
The pgm-f1 relay is your primary for the fuel injection.When go to crank the car and hear a buzz sound it is going to fail.Even with a new starter etc.
Brayan O.First if your accord has the original starter and it does (not) sound like my example and or takes several seconds to crank your issue is the starter.What happens is the heat from the intake manifold over time wears out the electrical on the starter and creates a (slow crank) and this can vary.1st if your starter is not engaging and cranking the car every time smooth and quick this is your problem.I will say having a battery that is not weak or almost out of date due to age does not help.Now after you replace the starter and the car is (still) slow to crank up you would need to replace the Main #1 relay for the EFI.This part number from Napa is AR6229.It is brown in color and is the center relay on the top level above the fuse's inside the car.To explain this is easy.What happens is the slow cranking starter that is wearing out heats up the Pgmi or efi main #1 relay when cranking and just wears out the relay due to Heat.I would only replace this relay after a new reman starter is installed(only) IF you hear a buzzing sound or clicking sound when cranking or a slow crank issue still continues that is present replace this relay.If you have any further questions just ask!To end the starter is typically the problem and only after this is replaced you at this point if the problem persist you would then go to replace the said relay I described.I suggest watching both of my videos and then recheck your cars issue and determine what applies to your situation.You can always go to advance auto and auto zone for a the free charging system checks to ensure the battery and alternator are in good order.I doubt the alternator is a problem but the battery could be just for a good reassurance.R
I had to replace the starter on an 08 Honda. Has a really fast starting sound. The carquest starter is good.
I must say I am sorry for the delayed responses.Mit bun I will correct You on the relay I think your are describing as the ACC relay part number AR6242 a napa part number.In my opinion what is happening is the starter is (slow) to crank and heats up the ACC relay and will make it click or not respond on cranking.If you have the original starter and the car turns over multiple times before it cranks you have 3 issues (maybe).One the starter is worn out and making the PGM -Fi1 relay main number 1 relay get hot.2nd trying to crank and holding the key to crank gets the the ACC relay or accessory power socket to get hot and make the car hard to start as this is BEFORE the run position with the key in the normal position.Lastly the slow and or dragging cranking.
Nav D if you have a cranking issue after replacing the pgm-f1 relay and still no cranking the next step is replacing the ACC relay.This is the Napa part number AR6242 and under $8.00 when I bought mine.This relay is on the Top level and the last relay and black in color.I do point out each relay in both of my video's and if you have any further questions just ask!Hope the first suggestion helps.
Hi Ron1987 I have changed both of them still has the same problem. I checked my battery with multi-meter when cranking voltage drop down to 8-9v and when not cranking battery still shows 12.5v. It is a new battery too, I couldn't figure it out. Any help please
So ron you changed 3 relays correct? the fuel pump relay the efi relay and acc relay?
Quick question. My car is having an issue when it has trouble turning over when it is hot outside. Everywhere I looked, it suggest that my issue is with the main fuel relay, but you have identified 2 main fuel relays, and now I'm not sure which one to replace.
Ron1987, thanks for your videos. I am currently about to R&R the starter on my wife's 07 accord SE. It has been slow starting on and off for a while. Recently replaced the battery and today would not crank after just driving. Tried a minute later and was normal but still sounding slower than when I replaced the battery. I added the 4G battery to frame and the additional one you did to the same mount bolt today. I have the starter and gasket but can't get to it until Saturday. I would also like to upgrade the battery as you did. Could you provide the part number or part size for the battery tray you purchased? Thanks again!
With your camera and lighting, you can actually see the relay's "usage description" stamped next to them on the panel.
Lol, I wouldn't of ever found that while crammed all up in the floor board.
very helpful. ty.
Fisher I do not really understand your question.I showed in good detail the power window relay in my video.It is on the lower level of the relays to the right hand side of the blue relay looking at it directly.I think your issue is not related to this post but,will try to answer your question.First I need to know what your issue is with the power window or windows.I will say if for (example) you have one window that will not roll up or down that would point to either a bad window switch or a bad window regulator for that specific window.Ok
Twink yes I realized after I did my research and video in really small stamped letters below each relay is marked (hard to see).But I bought a factory service manual which has good info and made things easier.At least making this video was simple and fixing the problems were not that bad after figuring out the problem.Thanks
thanks for taking the time to make this video
Sure thing.
That's a clean engine 😮
Mine was just replaced with a reman starter but now it will not start after driving a few miles. No crank at all. All dashboard lights will still go on. Leaving it for 30-60 minutes, will make the starter crank and start the engine again. Could this be a starter relay? thanks
Kenneth B.I assume you checked the fuse in the car?It's position is number 11 and it is a 30amp.The accord does not not use a relay for the wipers.To explain this is the wiper switch plugs into a control module that is in the steering column and or behind the air bag.My recommend is take to your local Honda dealer as they have the equipment to diagnose this and actually save you some headache.Just my take and hope this helps.
I have a 05 Honda accord the 2 relay you showed .is that considered the main relay
before we found out it kept popping. my dad was checking the fuses under the hood. he had took out the a/c fuse and placed it back in cause my a/c wasn't working. when that happened we turned the car on. it runs. but the tcs, abs, check engine lights came on and stayed on. and my (D) light flashes. this had never happen before and none of my lights were on when he checked the fuse for the a/c. now my car barely wants to go. so we checked out all the fuses and found out the acg fuse kept popping. that's how it came about. would you know why?
I believe I have a bad relay. I had multiple electrical failures occur at the same time. Can you give me some direction? While driving, radio power failed, lighter power failed, Tcs light came on, error codes for multiple cylinder misfires. Rides very rough.
Kyle M.I will do my best to help.First when you apply the horn (with the door open for hearing sound) and the car is not turned On or the key On do you hear a clicking sound?If you hear a clicking sound this would indicate your relays as there is 1.This controls both the horn (high) and one for horn (low) these are the pitch sounds from each horn.I first would open your hood and check the main fuse box(engine compartment) on the driver side for the fuse Number 13 this is a 20AMP fuse and on the under side of the fuse box cover it shows each location of each fuse.If the fuse is not blown,this can indicate several issue's.Your horn High and low as there are 2 as I said these are under the black cover where the hood latch is.If you open the hood and prop up you see the latch mechanism and the black cover with plastic plugs holding it in place.In order to check the actual horns(2) you have to disconnect the plugs to each of the high and low horns.You have to using a piece of good wiring to place on the positive of the battery and then insert to the terminal A grounding the horn bracket and the horn should work.Honestly to try and explain this would take a lot of time and unless your mechanically inclined I would not try this.I will say you can at least check the fuse box under the hood and make sure the Fuse number 13 is not blown.If it is not ,I would not think your horns are bad or even the relay which ties into your brake lights,and cruise control but the harness in your actual steering wheel behind the air bag itself.If you cannot do the technical work I would strongly suggest taking it to your local Honda dealer (YES) and get it done correct the 1st time with a warranty and not really crazy cost to have a working horn and fixed.I say this because if the harness in the steering column is bad or a poor connection the air bag may have to be removed to fix the problem.I do apologize for the Long write up however this is semi complicated and explaining it takes a lot to typing.I wish this was simple but,if your fuse is Not blown I would bet your high and low horn are fine and relay that makes it work as well.I am betting the harness in the actual steering wheel around the air bag are the issue.I have a shop manual and while I understand it explaining it is a dictionary.I hope this helps in some way.Best of luck and I do take our Honda to the dealership Only if I cannot do something beyond my scope too.R
Hey Rob1987,I changed my starter like you suggested and the start up is so nice when it does start up. Sounded brand new and I thought something was off. I bought the main relay and turns out I can't return it at honda dealer. Thank you for the advice and help. Great videos and keep up the awesome work
Richard O. I cannot recall a scenario where your issues All happened as you indicated.I did some mild checks in my shop manual but with out some codes and or knowledge of this I have one suggestion at this time.Being it all points from my view to a Electrical aspect.Check your cars battery (key OFF) should show at least 12.6 volts to be considered Good.Then crank and recheck the voltage and see if it comes UP to lets say 13.0 volts or higher using a multimeter.Granted just going to the auto parts places do Free charging and starting system checks if you do not have a multimeter.Just a simple Tip that could maybe indicate a possible failing battery or alternator (I would lean more towards the battery) as most accord alternators last a really long time.If I learn of any other ideas or direction I will comment.R
John S.glad to help and I would not fret over the pgm-f1 main number 1 relay for the fuel injection! I will say on these 2.4 k series engines what happens is the slow cranking starter heats up that relay which in turn could make it click on cranking.Just keep the part and if you ever have a clicking noise (IN) the car but the car cranks good that relay is probably the issue.Our 04 had both the slow crank and relay (click) on cranking so both were replaced.Problem solved!!!!! I doubt you will need to use the new relay but,having it cost you nothing if you needed it later down the line.Thanks for view and glad to help.
Please help me young shizzie on CZcams I have clicking in my 2004 honda accord ex & sometimes it starts rite up but one time it made this click 3 times and it didn’t start and I heard this weird eletric sound
@Young Shizzie With out writing a novel I'll try to make it Simple.My guess is your starter has slowly been going (bad or worn out) .Now due to the starter cranking Slower it Heats up the relay for the pgmi or lamens term Fuel injection. As time goes by the continuation of the slow cranking will cause the fuel injection to Fail in turn the car will not crank even if the starter continues to crank (the fuel injection is burned up) and will not put fuel into the injectors.NOW the easy correction replace your starter and the primary fuel injection relay AT the SAME time in terms do all the work the same day.Ultimately once the relay fails its either a tow bill,or u have to go buy a 45.00-55.00 relay just to get it to run.I do not NOT recommend just replacing the relay and wait ,bc the starter if it's that slow is going to crap out soon.Any further questions feel Free to ask.I do have a current price list of most auto stores wh carry the relay and cost.Granted the prices are constantly changing due to inflation. R
@@Ron1987 thank you Ron so I’m getting the starter tmmrw and what relay should I order should k replace both relays or just one ? I can post a video on my car starting sometimes it starts rite up but it’s a short long start about 2 seconds maybe 3, also Ron my radio sometimes when I start it touch screen radio is turnt all the way up , it’s weird and my lights flicker when I start it sometimes why ?
@Young Shizzie OK Napa Parr # AR6229 $49.99,Advance auto R6229 $45.99,oreillys auto parts 25-0384 $45.99 OR RY724 $36.99.This relay falls under the primary fuel injection and they'll probably look it up to Verify it.
@@Ron1987 ok so that’s for the one relay almost 30$ sheesh and did you re read my comment I edited it about my radio blasting when I start the car and my lights flickering when I start it ? & so just replace the one relay and starter and I should be fine
Hey I have Honda Acoord 2004, My Honda accord is shutting off randomly while driving and engine light comes on when I check it by device it has error says ECP/PCM POWER MAIN RELAY. Can u pls tell me which main relay I have to change it thank u
General V.I only had to replace the pgm-f1 main relay (fuel injection relay) because the slow cranking made the fuel injection relay above get hot and click on cranking the car after I replaced the starter.The second issue was my starter finally had a dead spot.You turn the key on and nothing happens.You try multiple times to crank and nothing happens.This specific issue can and did burn up the (ACC) the accessory power socket relay AR6242 (napa) and replaced this relay after I I did the starter and pgm-f1 relay (napa part AR6229).To keep this simple if your accord is slow cranking just replace the starter and IF and ONLY if after this you hear a clicking sound in the car when cranking replace the AR6229 napa relay for the pgm-f1 main relay,Unless your starter has the NO start on trying to crank over and over and nothing like a (dead battery issue) stick to the two items I stated.The fuel pump relay generally does NOT create a problem.Just replacing a worn starter (FIXES) the problem.I just months ago had my nephews 06 accord slow crank and the starter with 139k was worn out.Replaced the starter ONLY and done!I did not have to replace any relays and the car runs fine! If you have any further questions just ask.R
You had mentioned in the other video that you may change the battery cable. will you be making a video of that? do you know how long that cable is? I have a 2005 accord. I just need you as my neighbor.
thank you for these info 👍🏻
These Honda/Acura cars are really well made with excellent parts, nearly the best - Newer cars are sadly made to EAT PARTS 😂
@ron1987 was wondering if you knew why the acg fuse pop every time I start my car it pops. it's a 2003 honda accord.
Great video. Thanks!
you did great !!! wish there a vid for my 03 accord .....new brake swiotch new bulbs ....GGHHHH still no brake lights GHHHHHH
John S. Try checking Fuse #13 it is a 20amp in the fuse box under the hood. This controls the rear lights and or brake lights.If the fuse is fine it could be either a grounding issue or wire problem or one of the primary connectors.Ok
I have a 2005 Honda accord lx 2.4 it just cranks but won’t start any suggestions?
I believe I hear the fuel pump since I smell gas after cranking it so long.
Alright quick question and then my take.Has your car had a Slower start over time and is The Starter the Original starter.IF you said YES to these here's what to do.Being the Slower cranking wether long or short term it Heats up the pgmi f1 (fuel injection relay).As a result it essentially Burns up the fuel injection relay over time until it FAILS.If this is the original starter Replace it!!!.If you soley replace the fuel injection relay ( not cheap) it will burn up that relay too.So that said your cars symptoms are Your Fuel injection relay is BAD. I show in my videos where it is and if you need the Relay part number I can List the stores and who carries it and cost.Reman starters vary on cost but most have a lifetime warranty. Also the Dry side of the intake manifold gasket has to be replaced when it's removed other wise it will leak or suck air.Just ask if you need anything else.R
Hey rob1987, I got the main relay from honda dealer and it is called the ECM RELAY engine control module it looks exactly like it. It didn't do anything to my car so I am assuming it's the starter like you said. Honda wants 135 for diagnostic tests which I find to be ridiculous. You don't think it's the fuel pressure regulator?
my aircon doesn't work, someone suggested a faulty aircon relay ? in order to test it i took out another relay and put in in the slot where the air con relay was, no different aircon still doesn't work . So i put the relay back where i got it. After that i get check engine warning light and having problems with my idle speed . Anyone got some advise ?? Did i messed up the relay by trying it in the aircon slot ??
What year just for info purposes.Second on the IN car fuse box did you check Fuse #30 its a 7.5amp fuse and under the Hood (fuse box) Fuse #12 7.5amp.As for swapping the under hood Relay I do not know what its rating is,so swapping it might not have been a good idea.I would check the above normal fuses to see if there blown.If not it could your AC refrigerant level is too Low and it will not let the compressor turn On as a safety for compressor.I would check it to verify the Level of the R134.As for the idle issue I would disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes then reconnect,If its not a hard code it should clear up the ecm and should run normally,unless you created a problem.Thats what I suggest at this time.
I truly liked your vid...
Glad it was useful
Excellent Video. I also have long crank problem before starting the engine. I replaced the starter, and spark plugs. it worked great but after a few months, it happens variously. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. but it still happens. I just found out that it makes buzzing sound till a key light on dashboard is off. I am not sure if this is related with any relay related with the long crank problem. I have droven this car 112,000 miles. any tip is very much appreiciated. thanks
Bon Koo I'll
Oh and is there a way to test the main relay to see if its bad before I buy a new one? Thank you.
The battery tray I purchased was from auto zone.It is a Lynx brand replacement battery tray the numbers on my receipt are following #095989 0657 for a cost of $7.29..It is a pretty big plastic tray and I think the only (big) choice to upgrade too.I will say upgrading the battery with the cca has a good side in either hot or cold weather to boot!!!I would also suggest replacing the J Hooks the battery hold down hardware as the (oem) is too short!! Take your originals and buy a longer version as it is about a inch or two too short.I used a hacksaw to on (recall) to cut it down a touch for (MY) choice of fit on the New j-hook kit.Thanks and glad this helped you address your issue.R1987
Watching this video I couldn’t figure it now but now you told me k have a 2004 Honda accord ex 2.4l my car is clicking but it starts sometimes it doesn’t , it makes this weird eletric sound why
Awesome information... thank you
Glad you found it helpful.If you should need any questions answered I will do my best to assist you.Thx R
Thanks for everything
No problem to elaborate as much as I could on the said subject.Thanks for viewing.
Hey rob1987,
Thank you for the prompt response. I believe you're right and I will do that today, I'll let you know how it goes. I just don't understand how or why the results from autozone were all fine as far as starter crank, battery and alternator. I'm just afraid I may damage when replacing starter on my car. Do you have video of you replacing it ? I know there is plenty of videos on CZcams but yours are really good and super thoroughly. I enjoy both of the bad main relay videos. Thank your for the advice and help. I travel about one hour for class and always scared I'll get stranded
yes I have a 2004 Honda Accord 2.4 the problem I have is that when I don't start it for 3 or 4 days I come back and get batteries drain I check the battery to starter or charging system is good what could be the problem
How is it possible that I remove the "starter relay" and the car still starts? I have a 07 Accord and all info says, it has the same relay position. I removed it and it still started. Again, how's this possible?
Another question if i want to buy the starter cut relay whats the part number ??
Great video thank you
Hey I have 2004 Honda Accord with a bad battery I went to change the battery and now my car won't start at all with the new battery and doesn't have any power but the horn works lol can you give me some insight?
Mr P it's late and long day outside.I will follow up Sunday.
I suggest replacing the PGM-F1 main #1 relay.Over time the slow crank will wear this part out.Just check out my 1st video I show where it is.Driver side at the lower kick panel on the top row center position.Any further questions just ask.Even with a new starter I had to replace mine I did show the part # listed from napa.
Have a problem with my 2004 accord euro the dash lights starting all flickering and headlights even turned off for a split second at first it was just the radio that would just cut off for a second then all the lights on the dash flickering any suggestions on what I need to buy to fix???
Got in late so short this is for today.I would remove your battery ground at the battery to the fender(ensure) there clean and no corrosion.I would also check your battery and alternator voltage to ensure there at least 12.6 volts or higher(most read 12.8-13 not running.I will try to look into the possible reason and suggest ideas tues.1 thought is with the Key in the Run position lightly move the key to See if it has any play in the switch itself and if it Duplicates the problem when doing so.R
@@Ron1987 yeah they said at mechanic today power or voltage isn't enough to power through somewhere in the engine having a different guy check it out tomorrow just hope it's not an expensive fix
Sir my backup camera in my Honda Odyssey 2011 is black but still shows the yellow lines. Do you think it’s the camera or something other than the camera? Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Darren the manuals I have only cover the 03-07 model accords.The back up camera was not available at that time.If I come across some information in regard to the issue your having I will post it.
Where can I locate the main relay in a 2007 Honda accord EX? The check engine light came on,I had a diagnostic done at AutoZone & it said it was the main relay,a mechanic said it needed to be resoldered,but I can't locate it. I've searched endlessly. Thank you.
where can I locate the relay to the lighter in a 2004 honda accord
Is the ignition coil relay the same as starter relay
Hi Ron, I had this problem on our 07 accord LX 2.4, took to the stealership and got battery replaced( it was old and had low voltage), took couple of month and the problem is back again, sometimes it will crank very slow on couple of tries then it won't crank at all, wait about 10 min try starting and it starts normal, it happens when cold or hot, got he starter off the engine and took it to StealZone and got it tested, test said my starter is good so now I'm afraid I would spend $200 and still have the problem, had to order the intake gasket and got a new battery neg. cable, I will add the extra ground wire, do you think I should try replacing the relays and adding the ground wire before replacing the starter? Also I have a bad airbag module from the low voltage problem, this is all related, right?
hi LUIZ were u able to sort out this problem ? l am having a similar problem with my 2003 accord. once it starts the whole day it will be fine and it seems it has more to do with cold weather
Dingane jendekufa mine too!!! (07 Accord 4 cyl)
I'm stating to have lag when starting have any of u guys narrowed ur problem would like to know? thanks
@Duke Of Prunes Try your ACG fuse.
thanks very helpfull
that car so clean
If your starter is the original IF though tested has over 100K it is worn OUT! The 2.4 k series engines are known to wear out starters with over 100K or more miles.In a LONG winded comment here I go.On the said 2.4k engine these starters just wear out and create that dead battery and or weak alternator low voltage.I would guarantee your problem is just WORN out starter!!!I would Just replace the starter and dry intake manifold gasket and not worry with the relays Unless hear after the inside the car(a very obvious buzz sound) when cranking only ) do not worry with the relays.As for the air bag light That I do no know.Keep in mind Honda might Fix your air bag issue as this a safety issue Free of charge.!I would contact your local dealer and tell them your air bag issue and see if they can assist you and cover the cost and correct the problem.
Ron, is there any chance you could put in part numbers for the relays in the written description section of your video? I'm having trouble finding them on Google. Thanks.
DVJ S. I will try to post some info up.Just been busy lately and had not had the chance to do a follow up.
Omg thank you for this video. I’m not clear on wth is going on with my 2007 accord -after market key fob recently programmed by myself to unlock & lock the car, no alarm- but now the no crack no start is happening & i dont know where to start...
Citizen,exactly what issue occurs when you try to crank the car?For example, does it just do nothing or turn over and not crank up.I would start simple and verify with a multimeter your battery is in good condition.It should show at least 12.6 volts or greater with the key turned on,and the car not running.I could list more,however just try to describe what is occurring when attempting to start the car.
Ron1987 it previously had a slow start & crank, would have a hard time starting up, then just stalled couple times & pretty soon no start no crank. The battery was good enough so I ended up replacing the ignition & the starter...
@@Ron1987 I get a clicking sound when I try to start mine? Any idea of what it is? Starter or alternator.
Suggestions are as followed.First verify either with a multimeter that the battery shows at least 12.9 volts (car not running) and higher when idling.If you do have a meter go to advance auto or auto zone for a FREE charging system check.If all is OK, this would indicate your starter is in need of replacement.If this starter is the original I would not hesitate to replace it.If your car gets to a point of doing nothing when cranking(no click) the starter is toast.The noise your hearing is a great indicator its going to fail soon.
Hi Ron, My 2003 Honda Accord right turn blinker wont turn off and drains the battery. happened end of a 4 rainy days. Any adivse on if this is a relay or switch issue?
Poorna C.A question and then my thoughts.Doe's your turn signal on the said side blink fast on when using the turn signal on the RHS and it is on the Front or rear of the car.If any condensation or water has compromised the socket seal and or bulb and caused a short this could be a issue.I doubt it is your actual turn signal switch inside the car but,think it is the actual turn signal bulb socket on the RHS that may just be not be making proper contact and this can happen.Sometimes the socket for the bulb can loose and not the bulblight up or not work and it is just the contacts inside the socket for the bulb causing the problem.I can say I just replaced my wifes 04 accord with NEW headlight assemblies and had a issue with the marker light/turn signal socket staying lite up but (NOT) blinking and brand new!!!! This is the whole headlight part and I had to doodle with it socket to make it work and not one issue since and that's over two weeks ago.I doubt your problem is a fuse and or relay issue.I would check the actual marker light/turn signal socket as this is a 2 purpose bulb it stays ON when the marker lights are on used on the front headlight assembly.To get to the front head light area for the turn signal requires removing the inner splash guard to reach up to the said bulb and the front wheel really needs to be removed to alloy proper access to get to the said bulb.If I left anything off and or you have further questions just ask.I will say reaching the front end market light and turn signal bulb socket is a real pain! As the reason I said take OFF the front wheel to alloy more room to access the area UP to the front marker light (orange in color) and turn signal as these are the SAME bulb that stay on orange when the lights are on and blink for the turn signal.
Joel S your starter is going BAD!I will say on the accord with the 2.4 k series engine the starter does NOT show the typical fail problem.In my very to the point opinion get the starter replaced!!!!! This will fix the problem.I will say in a short explanation,IF your car has a slow crank to fire,OR longer crank revolution to fire and NO clicking the starter is about to fail.These 2.4 engine's do NOT show the typical fail point of the starter in general.I will point out these 03-up to current will do what your car is doing (as mine did he same).Just replace the starter and intake manifold gasket (dry gasket) and done.Final result replace your starter and fix the problem!!!!!!If you do this job about 2hours and the cost of the starter and intake manifold gasket kit.If you have any further questions please Ask!I
I have 2 questions and not necessarily a resolve to the problem.When you crank the car and it cranks (DO YOU HEAR) a clicking noise in the car?I ask this because unless your pgmi fuel injection relay on the top level of the relay box is going bad OR your ACC relay has gone bad as well.To explain the key turned on with the dash lights on is Good,but you have to turn the key past the ACC spot on the key switch and IF (a maybe) the acc relay has went bad would not alloy power past that to the run position on the key switch.Not to discount you might even have a brand new reman starter that is defective.To verify the starter is not faulty or at fault try this.Use a long screw driver or socket extension and put on the starter housing thru the intake manifold and tap the end with a hammer.IF it immediately cranks after a NO crank issue the starter is a bad NEW part.To me having to wait to crank make's me think it more a pgmi relay number 2 the one I replaced as it bit the dust as a result of the slow cranking.I will say soon after I replaced my oem starter the said relay was clicking every start up and I replaced it and problem resolved!!!The simple answer is I think your pgmi fuel injection relay probably is bad OR your acc switch relay.The pgmi fuel injection relay #2 is AR6229 and The acc relay is AR6242.Both are from NAPA soley.Check for the specific part numbers online or your local napa for your year specific as the part number may be different.I think your issue a RELAY problem not the replacement starter.Not to say a brand new reman starter will not fail my reason to say tap the starter and IF it cranks immediately the starter either is bad or has a loose connection or bad ground maybe.Sorry for the book however I like being thorough.
Well said Ron.
I'm having a vary similar problem.. My honda turns over but vary slow and u hear all that clicking coming from the fuse box.
@@byronjones8246 The simple answer is to replace the starter,And I would replace the pgmi-f1 relay as well(since its clicking) it will fail.The job requires replacing the intake manifold gasket as well(the dry gasket side) and of course the starter.If you take it to a shop they will charge at least two hours labor,plus parts if they do it all.IF you have any further questions I will gladly try to help! R
@@Ron1987 Hey Ron thank u for the response. 🤘
@@Ron1987 if the fuel pump relay was bad would the fuel pump still come on? Cause I getting noise from that one and the acc relay. But my fuel pump is humming when u turn the ig on.
@@byronjones8246 I will say that the fuel pump relay will make some noise(minor) when the key goes to the On position.I think its highly unlikely the fuel pump relay is failing.On the ACC relay I will say the delayed cranking or slow cranking (could or can) make the ACC relay get Hot and it will Fail.Mine failed due to my starter had a dead spot and I tried multiple times to get the starter to engage(which got the ACC relay too hot and it failed).I suggest get a new starter replace both the pgmi F1 relay (which is for the injectors to work) and the ACC relay which will make the car Do Nothing when it craps out.Hope this helps long 14 day .Any further ?s just ask.R
To (therequessarr).First is your accord having a slow cranking issue?Second does your car have the original starter and how many miles are on the car?I do not suggest replacing (ANY) relays unless you have replaced the starter and then (After) that is done you here a click or buzz sound and in the car only when cranking and also still cranks slowly..The typical issue with the Honda accord from 03-to current with the 2.4liter is a slow cranking engine almost like a weak battery.The primary problem is the starter itself.Once the starter is replaced and the battery is not weak or close to being needed replacing this normally fixes the problem.In short what happens is the slow cranking makes the 1# fuel injection relay get (HOT)!!! This is typically what you could hear clicking better known as the EFI relay.Please just view my 1st video and I point out the specifics and rewatch this video.The slow cut relay does not play a issue with this problem to my knowledge.If you have any further questions just ask!!!!!!! I do list the part numbers for the relays I replaced and most auto stores aside from just napa will carry what you would need.If your car has not had the starter replaced and it is slow cranking start with the known problem first.Thanks for viewing my page and too many questions are not a problem to help you.R
Excellent - thank you
Is that panel the main and only panel or r is their source relay that is seprid
Hey ron i have a good battery in my 05 honda accord ex. But when i start i hear the crank noise and it wont start so please tell me do i need to change the starter or just the relay will help
Its Abdu if the car has clicking sound,and or nothing then it cranks after turning the key multiple times.It sounds like the starter is failing.As long as the battery has been checked with a multimeter or by a machine to Verify the condition as Good,that rules out that.If you were to just replace the relay the car would still have the Same slow or no cranking and any noise that is Not normal.That said if it is the original starter or you know it has never been replaced I would replace it.At this point after a new starter is installed and the car has Any slower to crank issue Or just turns over but does not run then Replace the Relay AR6229 Napa part.If you listen close to the fuse box when you crank the car if you hear a slight buzzing sound its probably this relay.Pgm-f1 relay.hope this helps as I have been busy lately.
To be exact it's the part number 20580. Is that the red relay you replaced in this video ?????
Hey Ron where can I find the engine control module relay ??
estoy buscando cuál es el relay de las ventanas para mi Honda Accord ex 2005 gracias
If your having slow cranking it is your starter! I would just go simple and replace that and you have to do the intake manifold gasket(the outer one) not the one against the block.Once you do the starter unless you here a clicking ON start ups inside the car leave the relays alone.The relays only fail if they get too hot and then stop making contact internally and make the clicking sound on cranking.Trying to keep your cost low as your ride still cranks and just do what is the real now typical issue.
Tq for info. I have one question to ask, my car like u, the main relay pgm fi is sound like buzzer when i ignition the switch? Can u tell me what the problem
Questions I have a lot.But if your Honda has the 2.4 liter engine and the the starter has never been replaced you could have 2 issue's.The slow cranking over time make'sthe PGM F1 main fuel injection relay click when cranking.Granted I do these engine's starter's can fail early but with our car it was just over a 100k .If your car has that weak start and the battery is (known) to be fine I think your starter is failing and making the said relay click on cranking in theory.I would at least get the charging system checked at advance auto or auto zone for free to verify the battery is OK!If you have any further questions just ask and I will do what I can to help.R
Hi. I have a P0496 CODE for my 04 accord 2.4L. The Purge Valve is working correctly after testing it. Any advice on what else I can do to fix the problem?
I assume you have the SULEV model (emissions wise)?IF so even if the purge valve operates meaning you tested it by putting power to it,does not mean it still has a issue.That part has a Oring and if its not sealing it (could) create a poor seal thus the code you have.I would check ALL the hoses on the evap system,FTP sensor,evap canister and ALL electrical plugs to each sensor.I would pull them off and reinstall (electrical plugs).Even though you are not indicating a code P0457 Fuel cap loose I would at least make Sure it clicks 3 times this can create leaks IN the evap system!Hope this gives you some general guide and If the do replace the Purge valve the ecm/pcm needs to have a idle learn thru the diagnostic port.
@@Ron1987 yes I Tested the purge valve with a 9v battery and learned that it i can blow air through it when i turn it on but can't when it is off. And I just replaced the fuel cap. I checking for vacuum leaks on the Ftp and evap canisters. I did notice a small oil puddle around the rear of the valve cover by the Purge Valve maybe that has something to do with it? Thank you for the advice much appreciated 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
@@ceezauto213 Busy the last 2 days work wise.If I come up with any further suggestions I will let you know.R
@@Ron1987 thank you sir
Juan C I will ask you some information later specific to your issue.I am very tired and will revisit this later.