Barracuda gets Fire! Mounting a New Racing Alternator and Power Wires.
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- This video shows the new Powermaster Alternator install and 1 gauge power wire for the 68 Barracuda Drag Car. This is in preparation for the the upcoming season.
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I will stop what iam doing to watch all of your video , mopar joe is #1 to me
Thanks John! This car is taking a big unexpected turn soon!
A guy at the track this last year had a 69 barracuda and he mounted the switch inside the trunk and then ran a T handle push/pull switch out the back,only had a small hole where the rod came thru.
I absolutely should have bought that switch. I may just order one up and stop worrying about it lol
Hey Joe, Check NHRA rules on the kill switch situation. I believe you are supposed to hook it to the positive cable and simultaneously kill the alternator battery wire to prevent damage to the diodes. You can make a custom bracket to hold the switch from the steel bumper bracket, or other suitable spot.
On my Charger, I also put an in-line 200 amp fuse close on the positive cable close to the battery terminal, and I put a nylon braided sleeve on the entire length of the cable, because mine is running under the carpet too. I also installed an insulated firewall bulkhead connector, and fed the starter solenoid and starter from the bulkhead with smaller cables than the 1/0 from the trunk. Love your cars and videos!
good tip...Im actually up to this right now on my Barracuda
Will do Sue! Thanks for the support!
@@PeckerwoodKustoms i agree [ lastcuda74].
You could replace the taillight lense with 1/8 aluminum paint it red to match the other side and stick it there
I saw that on Google! Kind of a trick setup. Thanks covert kermit!
the GM style one wire alternators like you have require a diode in the thin red wire going to the back of the alternator they run 3 -4 diodes twisted together and soldered and shrinked tubed. what happens is when the ignition is turned off power still runs to the alternator making the engine keep running so the cluster of diodes only allows power to run one way . the diodes can be bought on line cheap the have about 3 " worth of stiff single wire coming out each side. make a mounting bracket inside the trunk for the kill switch. I also ran my battery to the trunk. went to a local welding shop and bought the 00 gauge wire cheaper then parts stores or online and installed it and a bolted down battery box just behind the drivers side rear fender well . I also made my own brackets and mount the RCI 16 gal fuel cell in the trunk of my 65 dart over the spare tire well 😎🤘🏁. very nice Joe the Barracuda is getting closer to being completed 👍
Thanks brother! I’ve been researching this a lot online. It’s kind of a mixed bag. 25 percent mention the diodes etc. Others say to switch the ground side, and the last group runs the alternator wire straight back to the positive side of the battery or master power. I’ll have to have my kill switch outside the trunk since it takes the flat headed fasteners to hold the lid on. I actually hit a different kind of obstacle that I’ll explain in my next video. Thanks for the support brother!
Very nice great info Thank you!
your Barracuda has come a long way since this video !
Thanks brother. Going to keep improving!
Eek.... That wiring LOL!!! (The pre-existing, not yours) Wiring is my major peeve, its gotta be right, and neat!! When its been previously hacked, I rip it all out and start over!!
That’s what this is getting also. It’ll be easier access soon. 😉
good video Joe...great to see some progress...the wiring on my Barracuda was horrifying too...in the process of a partial rewire right now...the alternator wire issue is an interesting read, I need answers too...I run the one wire and was just going to terminate it at the starter motor, seems not now...keep up the good work, keen to see the upcoming change
Thanks PWK! I'll do my best!
Mopar Joe engineering at its best yay!
Thanks MoparNut62. I’m trying not to overthink this 😂
Hey Joe I'm sure somebody's already mentioned this but I would mount it where the license plate goes dead center that way even if your night driving you might have some lights on it.
Thats the plan. Thanks Dean!
Looking good, put a few one wire GM alts in my mopars.
Thanks Peter! The car is going through a few big changes soon. Thanks for the support. 👍🏼
Good video Joe, but to be honest I wouldn't cut the one gauge at all. See if you can loop it if it's a little too long but that's me. I've always wondered how single wire alternators work with a field type setup.
Thanks, Chris. This one has done me well the past year.
I've seen a lot of guys drill a hole right in the center of the license plate and mount them.
I'm thinking something similar for sure! Thanks B Dubs! I appreciate the support!
Build a bracket off of the license plate area
Good idea
Thanks brother! That does sound like the hot ticket.
They make mopar 1 wire style alternator's that directly to stock brackets.
I keep hearing that, but couldn't find one. I figured for the price, I couldn't beat this one. I might have to redo it on my other engine because of the bulkier heads. I also have considered a motor plate and the kit that mounts it nicely to it.
Kill switch maybe off a brake hung off bumper bolt.
Thanks Stan! I should be able to accomplish that when I get the car over to my welder in the other shop.
i would make a bracket for the shut off switch and hook up a rod and lever .drill a small hole for the rod ,poke it thru the tail light or whatever and put a t handle on it . PUSH OFF -PULL ON .
Thanks Doug! I’ve studied it more about making a simple bracket to go off the license plate area.
Hey Joe, better look into what your track or tracks you go to require for switch mounting locations. I'm thinking that the standard is somewhere on the right close to the battery. I had one of those Taylor's and got rid of it for the rod style.
It's pretty Lax in Arkansas. I know they prefer you have one towards the rear, but I don't think they would put you on the trailer if you didn't have one. They are reasonable guys and would likely request you get one before coming back.
Very good, enjoying the channel.
Unless rules dictate switching the hot side specifically, Id switch the ground instead. Thats what I always try to do. It simplifies placement and wiring of the switch also since youre just going to the frame. Then of course you have to have good verified grounds to the engine...
Thanks WnT. Typically they do in NHRA. I will likely never see an NHRA track. Most of our tracks are reasonable on stipulations, etc. They don’t want to bankrupt the weekend bracket racer with tedious rules. I’ll likely buy a 4 gauge ground and run from battery to the engine block as well. This snow storm has my hands tied in supplies now. The project is about to take a big twist!
@@JustMoparJoe Nice...the track here was pretty lenient on the little stuff too. Its been a while since Ive built stuff to a rulebook so didnt recall, plus hitting the speed/ET that required a cutoff was where I wanted to stop anyway!!
You know the old saying, “opinions are like A$$holes” everyone has one” HaHa.....where ever you mount it just be sure to make it readily accessible!! Getting closer to Rockin n rollin!!
Thanks Andrew! Our tracks are pretty lenient about it. They just prefer you have one. LOL
Previous Dodge Owner wiring is the worse!!!! Hahaha
You are getting closer to getting that beast on the track! Are there any rules on where to mount the cut off switch? Or is it just in the rear?
Our tracks don’t really speculate it. Big tracks say in the rear and marked, has to connect to positive cable. I’ll land in between somewhere 😅
Hey Joe can you shoot me a part no. For that master cylinder on your barracuda and where you got it need one for my 440 69 valiant thanks great videos
Thanks brother. This master and the adapter are both on Mancini. Check out their website. Easy stuff to swap in
Nick work! Would it be possible to reinforce a small section of the rear bumper behind the fiberglass?
Quite possibly. I may just make a quick bracket to go under the bumper or license plate. I've got alot more time coming up soon, and will be able to knock it out.
There are many ways to fix the kill switch issue. 1) You can build up the fiberglass with a thick washer glassed into a panel to strengthen it. 2) Go through the body panel in the rear where it is hard to see it, but paint onto the car or use stickers showing ON OFF. Anyone with half a brain would know it is there, look deeper! 3) You can build a bracket off your roll bar inside the car that would place the switch 90* from parallel to the rear of body. Attach a strong steel wire from it out through a very small hole in the body, again using paint or sticker saying PULL OFF..... A good place to find the hardened wire to protrude the body is from the inside of a car door. Just find the longest one you can so it gives you plenty of choices where you want to place the switch. Then lightly heat and bend the last 3 inches down for a handle and paint it a high contrasting color from the cars color.
Thanks you Steve. You’re ideas are excellent. I was up against the end of the day and didn’t have much time to do anything. I need to bring the car to my other shop for some welding and fab stuff.
Does the switch have to be outside? Could you mount it up front, inside instead?
Yes, outside. Has to be accessible for track workers to reach in the event of a crash.
Garry It’s recommended outside and rear, in case someone has to cut the power after a crash etc.
Just put it in the center with a license plate set
I’ve been studying that. It would pain me to drill a big hole in the side of the car for sure. Thanks Lonnie!
That was my thought... 👍
On your Killswitch I had to go with the four way because when you run a alternator back there to the kill switch it's on the same side as your electronics and it back feed and let it keep running
Thanks Lonnie. I was thinking I would run it directly to the hot post of the battery. When I kill the main switch, my aftermarket ignition will lose all power. The downside would be that the alternator will stay hot on its post, but that’s how it was from the factory. I’ll keep y’all posted 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe I tried to run my alternator straight to the battery and what happened was the battery it back feed the alternator and try to make it run and suck the battery dead what you can buy a resistor that's a one-way and put in that just trying to help out cuz I've been there
Mount it on fuel cap
Thanks, Todd! I’m making a license plate mount.
Hey I have a 72 charger with 318 904 auto, and I have a 73 roadrunner parts car, would everything including the column fit. It is a 340 car with 4 speed manual
Hey Dylan! I believe that it would all switch over. I will send over Moparnut62 and he will know for sure. If you haven’t seen his channel yet, check it out! He’s got more Mopar parts and knowledge than I’ll ever have!
Yeah man you can make it work but I prefer to use a 72 steering coloumn and wiring. All the places to mount your engine and trans are there the only change will be the engine mounts need to go to biscuit style with beakers as the 73 uses spool mount and that I frame doesn't interchange with the 72 b body.
Also you may need to change out the driveshaft or shorten it.
Well i don't know if it could be done but could you mount the switch in the back near the battery and make a handle extension to run threw the back of the car to connect to the switch. If it could be done all you need is just a small hole drilled in the back for the handle. I know this may be a dumb idea but just thought i would throw it out there,
I see now that they make a switch with a T handle, exactly as you describe it. I bought the one I was used to using on other later Abodies, and it’s going to take some adapting. Got a big change coming to the car soon!
@@JustMoparJoe Cool !! Can't wait to see it.
Pull the tail light and fit a plate to mount the switch. Add a small tail light to the plate if needed. Another alternative would be to put it through the roll panel and put the license plate inside the window. The difference between a couple feet of 1ga versus 4ga at 13.2vdc and 200 intermittent cranking amps is a 0.1 volt drop, way less than that when running on 75 amps or less. www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/voltage-drop-calculator.html
Now that’s a link! Thanks for sharing. I like the license plate idea or something close to it. 👍🏼
While not relevant... Never been first before. Isnt that a "thing" on CZcams LOL??
Definitely! You win the prize!
@@JustMoparJoe Yay!! Ill take the blown all aluminum nitrous injected 572 Hemi with A body mounts, the six speed auto, and narrowed 8.75 rear with 4.10s!!! Will send the address....🤣🤣