I'm sure you probably know this but they make a timed soliniod that will blow down your air compressor tank every so often an for the length of time you see fit. You pipe it into the drain valve and then pipe it outside. No mess and it keeps the tank from holding water.
If you run 18 inches of flexi from the drain hole you can put the drain valve where you can get to it without grovelling on the floor! You can also use a tub to catch the oil/water and not dump it on the floor making a mess of you workshop and polluting the place.
@@mr.biltsgarage4832 You are out of your mind of you think 150 psi is not enough to make that thing explode like a bomb. Just do a quick CZcams search and you will see plenty of deadly exploding air compressors.
There appears to have a been a blast of water vapor discharging from tank #2 briefly when you initially opened it; that being said it would appear that ultimately your drying endeavors worked.
Yes I seen that as well On the other end only air Way cheaper and more effective than other products out there I need to do an update I added a pressure switch to activate the cooling fan
Well I wonder what the PRICE difference is compared to this method czcams.com/video/BWPACQISFx0/video.html Orient the assembly from bottom to top with hot air at the bottom. This will help boil off any trapped water from rapid cooling before reaching exit point. Edit: Adding a cooling fan to pull air across the assembly will further cool the air before reaching the initial water separator. THIS IS WHAT CAUSES Water in the air line - condensation from hot air cooling rapidly. Personally I would put a drain catch similar to a p-trap on the output of the expansion fins and/or the water collector/separator at that point before routing to the tank. A P-Trap 12-16 inches from the tank inlet is a good way to trap any droplets that may get past the initial catch trap. make sure the P-trap has a removable port or drain valve installed. Total Cost 150-200 bucks. If you are a painter this is mere peanuts compared to repainting an entire project. Also for anyone using a LOT of air tools this is a TOOL SAVER as well. Water in your tools kills em faster than anything else, even IF you oil your tools each use. The water simply destroys tools.
If I were you I would use aluminum or stainless tank for water separation. Right now you have a time bomb in your garage.... You can end up like this czcams.com/video/sm_FJ6Pat4I/video.html And if you are as cheap as me you can use old CO2 tank at least it is a few times stronger than your current mr rusty nasty....
@@mr.biltsgarage4832 I think your idea using condenser is great. I will check a couple of metal recycling places close by. I will try to find dead condensing unit from AC (the part that sits outside). Where I live we use mostly split AC systems, so their condensing units are much slimmer than one used in the US. Also the tubing in them is copper and I can braze it easily. I think it is a good idea to have tubes in the condenser sloped downwards, so the water is not pooling but keep flowing down and out. And also condensing units come with fan.
@@justlife2129 I went to a local automotive junk yard and got the condenser and had to clean it out really good If I made another one I would just order one on eBay. It looks like that would have been easier
That tank going to explode soon its to rusty get rid of it man.
Good way to clean the rust from inside your tank. Once its dry, spray some silicone inside your tank.
Ticking time bomb
I'm sure you probably know this but they make a timed soliniod that will blow down your air compressor tank every so often an for the length of time you see fit. You pipe it into the drain valve and then pipe it outside. No mess and it keeps the tank from holding water.
If you run 18 inches of flexi from the drain hole you can put the drain valve where you can get to it without grovelling on the floor! You can also use a tub to catch the oil/water and not dump it on the floor making a mess of you workshop and polluting the place.
Let us know when that rusty old tank explodes!!
150 psi wouldn't do that
@@mr.biltsgarage4832 you wil be surprised 😂
@@BoostedVr5 ok
@@mr.biltsgarage4832 You are out of your mind of you think 150 psi is not enough to make that thing explode like a bomb. Just do a quick CZcams search and you will see plenty of deadly exploding air compressors.
@@davetarrant6888 Your not convincing me any
But thanks
There appears to have a been a blast of water vapor discharging from tank #2 briefly when you initially opened it; that being said it would appear that ultimately your drying endeavors worked.
Yes I seen that as well
On the other end only air
Way cheaper and more effective than other products out there
I need to do an update I added a pressure switch to activate the cooling fan
water vapor or was it dust on the floor
Yeah... I want to see how you built it. And, I subscribed. Good luck with your video work.
The second video shows that
Thanks
Looks like a bomb waiting to explode. I wouldn’t let water sit in that tank like that.
Your awesome
Time to retire that tank. Too Much rust.
Not sure why you think that's okay.
I hate that last tank's drain plug.
Replace that tank soon and drain the next one regular can you show how you put it together
You need to make sure of which way to turn something before turning
Well I wonder what the PRICE difference is compared to this method czcams.com/video/BWPACQISFx0/video.html Orient the assembly from bottom to top with hot air at the bottom. This will help boil off any trapped water from rapid cooling before reaching exit point.
Edit: Adding a cooling fan to pull air across the assembly will further cool the air before reaching the initial water separator. THIS IS WHAT CAUSES Water in the air line - condensation from hot air cooling rapidly. Personally I would put a drain catch similar to a p-trap on the output of the expansion fins and/or the water collector/separator at that point before routing to the tank. A P-Trap 12-16 inches from the tank inlet is a good way to trap any droplets that may get past the initial catch trap. make sure the P-trap has a removable port or drain valve installed.
Total Cost 150-200 bucks. If you are a painter this is mere peanuts compared to repainting an entire project. Also for anyone using a LOT of air tools this is a TOOL SAVER as well. Water in your tools kills em faster than anything else, even IF you oil your tools each use. The water simply destroys tools.
Thank you for the info and thanks for watching!
Which way did your turn that craftsman
Roflmao , Oh shit lol oh shit laughed so hard lol
If I were you I would use aluminum or stainless tank for water separation. Right now you have a time bomb in your garage....
You can end up like this
czcams.com/video/sm_FJ6Pat4I/video.html
And if you are as cheap as me you can use old CO2 tank at least it is a few times stronger than your current mr rusty nasty....
Co2 tank
Thanks
@@mr.biltsgarage4832 I think your idea using condenser is great. I will check a couple of metal recycling places close by. I will try to find dead condensing unit from AC (the part that sits outside). Where I live we use mostly split AC systems, so their condensing units are much slimmer than one used in the US. Also the tubing in them is copper and I can braze it easily. I think it is a good idea to have tubes in the condenser sloped downwards, so the water is not pooling but keep flowing down and out. And also condensing units come with fan.
@@justlife2129 I went to a local automotive junk yard and got the condenser and had to clean it out really good
If I made another one I would just order one on eBay. It looks like that would have been easier
Please don't be cheap and go get an automatic drain for like $60 at Home Depot
I'm always cheap