I like the gear-down pulley you used. I assume its diy, I've never seen one like it before. I'd like to see more details on your electronic speed controller, and hope that's a future video. Thanks for sharing!!
Yes, the gear-down helps a lot - and yes, I had to do it myself. Please be aware, that you should use a black V-belt and not the lug belt. I did make a video about the speed reducer and another video about the eletronics for the Singer 201, and it is just the same for this Singer 237. Did you see them? Please ask, if you got more questions. I did not yet make a video about how to choose a replacement motor. The main issues here are electrical safety and shaft mechanical power (It is NOT the same as input electrical power).
Thanks for the comment. I cannot promise that in near future. You can find a link to one supplier of a new race gate in the text to this video. I remember, that I pushed out the shaft in the hinge to the race gate using a small screw driver and a small hammer. You got a small spring that pulls in the hinge, so be aware to align the hinge parts when you push in the shaft for the hinge.
HELLO THERE IN COPENHAGEN! I PURCHASE MOST OF MY PARTS FROM THE LINK IN YOUR COMMENT ABOVE. IT IS CHEAPER FOR ME TO BUY MY SUPPLIES FROM CMSS IN USA THAN JUST UP THE STREET HERE IN MONTREAL! THANK YOU FOR SUPPORTING THIS CHANNEL! THE MACHINES AND ME APPRECIATE IT. HEALTH & HAPPINESS TO YOU!
Thanks for your comment, Jebb. I got this race gate about 6 years ago, so it is good to know that they are still a good supplier. Back then this race gate got only a few sellers.
@@sewingmachinesindetail Hey SMID; their prices are competitive from the few items I have cost compared with other suppliers. But they are dependable; most importantly, they ship to Canada! thanks for the help!
Thank you so very much for the informative video. I'm rebuilding the tensioner on my 237 tonight, and would like to get the source from which one obtains the improved bee hive spring for the tensioner. Do you still have a source for the stronger tensioner spring? Thanks in advance. Keep up the good work. בס'ד
Thanks. I am glad that you found the video informative. I made a video about the beehive spring, and it got some links in the text. However, I explain there, that I am not 100% sure that a spring for a Singer 132K6 will fit. But you may modify such a spring.
I have one of these machines, didn't realize that it could be modified to almost industrial strength. These things are build like a tank, should last indefinitely with minor upkeep, specifically oiling and cleaning.
Yes, I think it is quite amazing how well it works with heavier thread and fabrics, when it got these few modifications. But it might be limited if you try to sew 6-7 mm thick firm fabric, because you cannot adjust feed timing on this machine. Try to look the video about feed timing.
@@sewingmachinesindetail I just finished watching that video. You have done an amazing job of figuring these things out! You could be a sewing machine engineer from the looks of your work!
@@caduceus33 Thanks. I am an engineer and have read some of the books used in education of sewing machine engineers and have an engineers approach and know how you design apparatus. CZcams is a good way to explain some of these technical details for a broader group of people. A lot of vintage sewing machines go to scrap, and I think some of them can be used in more ways.
@@sewingmachinesindetail I think a number of machines might be abandoned for two main reasons. 1) they have not been cleaned adjusted and oiled, and the price to hire a professional might be considered prohibitive, and 2) people want the free arm feature which is lacking on so many older machines. One point I should mention: per your advice, I checked in to an instruction manual for the Singer 237. One was free as a PDF, but it did not include how to work on the machine innards, just the standard use instructions for the exterior controls and methods of use. Are the printed manuals more complete? I want to thank you for the great information and assistance you are offering by making these videos!
Hello there! I tried using size 30 thread on mine but there was a lot of skipping and grinding noise comming from the bobbin holder. Do you think this size is too thick for stock machine?
I guess, that the size 30 thread (Tex 90) is too thick for stock machine. The beehive spring will not be able to set sufficient stable high thread tension. I hope, that you did oil the shuttle hook - it is the most important place to oil this kind of machines. But the machine will make some more noise, than a Bernina would do. I made a playlist of relevant videos regarding the Singer 237, and I suggest that you take a look of them. One is about the beehive spring and with links to possible suppliers. studio.czcams.com/users/playlistPLhBGyDo4tov86GVVCUzTF9RyH7HHW_Ha6/videos
Where do you get a heavier beehive tension spring? I have a 237 that won't sew V69 very well. Even with tension set at 9 it still shows needle thread underneath. I ordered a new check spring to see if that would help but I'd like to try the heavy beehive spring too.
Yes, I guess you mean the speed reducer. It is the same way as for my Singer 201, and I made a video about it. Please ask if you need more details. czcams.com/video/oNsLv1BByN0/video.html
I have also made another video about the speed reducer in specific. The small pulley got 30 mm diameter and the large 110 mm. A problem with 3D-print can be a not flat surfaces against the sides of the V-belt, and it will limit required friction. Look this forum - here a guy did make a 3D print file: www.naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/viewtopic.php?p=110407#p110407
The belt width is about 6,1 mm and the length along the outer perimeter is 410 mm. You should use a black V-belt and not a lug belt. They are sold on ebay.
I was about to ask where you got the new gate , seen the discription, must get asked alot lol , this was something singer should have recalled i think , only piece of plastic in the entire driveline and they put it where one needle strike and boom garbage ...hope that engineer got fired lol ....
Yes. But at that time they got huge competition from Japan, so unfortunately they tried to make them cheaper by plastic parts. But I like that you still is able to get this part. That is the good thing about Singer machines, that they were manufactured in large numbers, so it is still a business to make spare parts to them. The new part I got is still in order and have been used the past 6 years.
@@sewingmachinesindetail good point but they could have used plastic anywhere else and it would have made it cheeper but to put it in such a vulnerable spot isnt smart thinking , what i find funny is how the world wanted less expensive stuff and was willing to give up quality over profit , so buy a new one every 5 years for 200 or buy a 500 dollar one and have it for ever ,,,, what choice would you make , a smart person would care about quality a greedy person only wants them happy for a short time , so i buy a 200 dollar machine it breaks now i say jojo,s machine shop sells garbage , i should have paid up and i would still be happy , this is the problem with this world we make disposable cheap crap that fills our dumps more then necessary and over polution isnt going away , there is a reason we pay for quality , its just smart and economical not waistfull . But its tooo late for that so i will fill my life with quality and watch my children suffer with thier future , see its our jobs as the elders to show them what can be and what will be . Competition is good but when corners start to get cut to profit we all are the loosers ...
Yes, it seems this plastic race gate was not well designed. I know some of the vintage Husqvarnas and Berninas got some plastic gears, and they seems to keep functioning. But the green Husqvarnas did also have a plastic cover to the right, that breaks on most machines. So it may also be a question of designing with plastic the right way. I guess the best you can do is to read some reviews of the machines before you buy them. I agree, that many of the new cheap machines got very bad quality and will break after short time use. Clothes and linens have got cheaper too, so most families do not repair their clothes anymore, and many more buy clothes due to fashion changes. The environmental consequences of this behavior is substantial.
Very nice machine
Yes, it became a nice machine after I had improved the shuttle hook 🙂
I like the gear-down pulley you used. I assume its diy, I've never seen one like it before. I'd like to see more details on your electronic speed controller, and hope that's a future video. Thanks for sharing!!
Yes, the gear-down helps a lot - and yes, I had to do it myself. Please be aware, that you should use a black V-belt and not the lug belt. I did make a video about the speed reducer and another video about the eletronics for the Singer 201, and it is just the same for this Singer 237. Did you see them? Please ask, if you got more questions.
I did not yet make a video about how to choose a replacement motor. The main issues here are electrical safety and shaft mechanical power (It is NOT the same as input electrical power).
Could you please do a video about how to replace the race gate? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment.
I cannot promise that in near future. You can find a link to one supplier of a new race gate in the text to this video. I remember, that I pushed out the shaft in the hinge to the race gate using a small screw driver and a small hammer. You got a small spring that pulls in the hinge, so be aware to align the hinge parts when you push in the shaft for the hinge.
HELLO THERE IN COPENHAGEN! I PURCHASE MOST OF MY PARTS FROM THE LINK IN YOUR COMMENT ABOVE. IT IS CHEAPER FOR ME TO BUY MY SUPPLIES FROM CMSS IN USA THAN JUST UP THE STREET HERE IN MONTREAL! THANK YOU FOR SUPPORTING THIS CHANNEL! THE MACHINES AND ME APPRECIATE IT. HEALTH & HAPPINESS TO YOU!
Thanks for your comment, Jebb. I got this race gate about 6 years ago, so it is good to know that they are still a good supplier. Back then this race gate got only a few sellers.
@@sewingmachinesindetail Hey SMID; their prices are competitive from the few items I have cost compared with other suppliers. But they are dependable; most importantly, they ship to Canada! thanks for the help!
Thank you so very much for the informative video. I'm rebuilding the tensioner on my 237 tonight, and would like to get the source from which one obtains the improved bee hive spring for the tensioner.
Do you still have a source for the stronger tensioner spring?
Thanks in advance.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
Thanks. I am glad that you found the video informative. I made a video about the beehive spring, and it got some links in the text. However, I explain there, that I am not 100% sure that a spring for a Singer 132K6 will fit. But you may modify such a spring.
I have one of these machines, didn't realize that it could be modified to almost industrial strength. These things are build like a tank, should last indefinitely with minor upkeep, specifically oiling and cleaning.
Yes, I think it is quite amazing how well it works with heavier thread and fabrics, when it got these few modifications. But it might be limited if you try to sew 6-7 mm thick firm fabric, because you cannot adjust feed timing on this machine. Try to look the video about feed timing.
@@sewingmachinesindetail Thank you, I will check it out!
@@sewingmachinesindetail I just finished watching that video. You have done an amazing job of figuring these things out! You could be a sewing machine engineer from the looks of your work!
@@caduceus33 Thanks. I am an engineer and have read some of the books used in education of sewing machine engineers and have an engineers approach and know how you design apparatus. CZcams is a good way to explain some of these technical details for a broader group of people. A lot of vintage sewing machines go to scrap, and I think some of them can be used in more ways.
@@sewingmachinesindetail I think a number of machines might be abandoned for two main reasons. 1) they have not been cleaned adjusted and oiled, and the price to hire a professional might be considered prohibitive, and 2) people want the free arm feature which is lacking on so many older machines. One point I should mention: per your advice, I checked in to an instruction manual for the Singer 237. One was free as a PDF, but it did not include how to work on the machine innards, just the standard use instructions for the exterior controls and methods of use. Are the printed manuals more complete? I want to thank you for the great information and assistance you are offering by making these videos!
Hello there!
I tried using size 30 thread on mine but there was a lot of skipping and grinding noise comming from the bobbin holder.
Do you think this size is too thick for stock machine?
Also, can you recommend a link to a shop that sells stronger springs?
I guess, that the size 30 thread (Tex 90) is too thick for stock machine. The beehive spring will not be able to set sufficient stable high thread tension. I hope, that you did oil the shuttle hook - it is the most important place to oil this kind of machines. But the machine will make some more noise, than a Bernina would do.
I made a playlist of relevant videos regarding the Singer 237, and I suggest that you take a look of them. One is about the beehive spring and with links to possible suppliers.
studio.czcams.com/users/playlistPLhBGyDo4tov86GVVCUzTF9RyH7HHW_Ha6/videos
@@sewingmachinesindetail thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge and experience! Your videos are extremely informative.
@@trabantdelux Thanks. I am glad that you find the information useful.
Where do you get a heavier beehive tension spring? I have a 237 that won't sew V69 very well. Even with tension set at 9 it still shows needle thread underneath. I ordered a new check spring to see if that would help but I'd like to try the heavy beehive spring too.
Please look this video and the comments to it: czcams.com/video/5CCURZCvSI4/video.html
do you have a link to modifying the drive wheel and pulley set up you describe?
Yes, I guess you mean the speed reducer. It is the same way as for my Singer 201, and I made a video about it. Please ask if you need more details. czcams.com/video/oNsLv1BByN0/video.html
Could you please give me the diameters of the pulleys you made. Going to give the 3d printer ago to make some
I have also made another video about the speed reducer in specific. The small pulley got 30 mm diameter and the large 110 mm. A problem with 3D-print can be a not flat surfaces against the sides of the V-belt, and it will limit required friction. Look this forum - here a guy did make a 3D print file: www.naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/viewtopic.php?p=110407#p110407
what kind of belt did you use to drive the handwheel? And what size is it?
The belt width is about 6,1 mm and the length along the outer perimeter is 410 mm. You should use a black V-belt and not a lug belt. They are sold on ebay.
I was about to ask where you got the new gate , seen the discription, must get asked alot lol , this was something singer should have recalled i think , only piece of plastic in the entire driveline and they put it where one needle strike and boom garbage ...hope that engineer got fired lol ....
Yes. But at that time they got huge competition from Japan, so unfortunately they tried to make them cheaper by plastic parts. But I like that you still is able to get this part. That is the good thing about Singer machines, that they were manufactured in large numbers, so it is still a business to make spare parts to them. The new part I got is still in order and have been used the past 6 years.
@@sewingmachinesindetail good point but they could have used plastic anywhere else and it would have made it cheeper but to put it in such a vulnerable spot isnt smart thinking , what i find funny is how the world wanted less expensive stuff and was willing to give up quality over profit , so buy a new one every 5 years for 200 or buy a 500 dollar one and have it for ever ,,,, what choice would you make , a smart person would care about quality a greedy person only wants them happy for a short time , so i buy a 200 dollar machine it breaks now i say jojo,s machine shop sells garbage , i should have paid up and i would still be happy , this is the problem with this world we make disposable cheap crap that fills our dumps more then necessary and over polution isnt going away , there is a reason we pay for quality , its just smart and economical not waistfull . But its tooo late for that so i will fill my life with quality and watch my children suffer with thier future , see its our jobs as the elders to show them what can be and what will be . Competition is good but when corners start to get cut to profit we all are the loosers ...
Yes, it seems this plastic race gate was not well designed. I know some of the vintage Husqvarnas and Berninas got some plastic gears, and they seems to keep functioning. But the green Husqvarnas did also have a plastic cover to the right, that breaks on most machines. So it may also be a question of designing with plastic the right way. I guess the best you can do is to read some reviews of the machines before you buy them. I agree, that many of the new cheap machines got very bad quality and will break after short time use. Clothes and linens have got cheaper too, so most families do not repair their clothes anymore, and many more buy clothes due to fashion changes. The environmental consequences of this behavior is substantial.