Part 2: I Sewed 18th-Century Stays (Corset) | Plus: Simplicity 8162 review
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2021
- This is the fourth video in my series on making a complete 18th-century costume! Follow me on my journey through #historicalcostuming.
This is my first time making a pair of 18th-century stays, which are a precursor to what most people think of as a corset. In this video, I show you how I made them, and I offer my final thoughts on Simplicity 8162 (see previous videos about this pattern on my channel).
The process went faster and better than I expected. Here are some great resources that helped me along the way:
American Duchess
American Duchess designed Simplicity 8162, and they have a series of videos and blog posts on this pattern, including how to make them more historically accurate. The information is so valuable. Don’t make this pattern without checking out these helpful posts.
This post helped me do a full bust adjustment: blog.americanduchess.com/2016...
This post talked about adjusting the boning pattern from half-boned to fully-boned: blog.americanduchess.com/2016...
This video shows the process of binding the stays using chamois. I was going to do this until my wrist injury made it impossible. Someday I would love to do it, though. • Simplicity 8162 18th C...
Lady of the Wilderness
This page has a fantastic visual guide to fitting 1780s stays. I was able to compare the fit on my mockup to the diagrams in the blog in order to learn what was working and what wasn’t. I’ll continue to reference this blog as I construct my final stays: ladyofthewilderness.wordpress...
Festive Attyre
This post was very helpful for learning how to mark the grommet placement for spiral lacing.
www.festiveattyre.com/p/the-ze...
Thanks for watching! Drop a comment down below and let me know what you think. Also, be sure to subscribe and hit that notification bell so you don't miss any videos. You can also follow me on Instagram for channel and project updates: @crmarble
#18thcenturystays #18thcenturyfashion #costube #simplicity8162
I've heard the solution to the tab sticking out in the front is an extra layer or two of buckram patches. You make buckram by taking your tightly woven canvas and painting it with gum tragacanth, or gum arabic, or guar gum.
I just finished making my first pair with this same pattern as well! I wish I had watched your video before hand… I had so much trouble with the binding. But they still turned out lovely! I’m so glad I went for it despite my fear.
thank you so much for posting your process of making stays for the first time. this video and the part one have been more helpful than i could have imagined. the problems you ran into with the mock up are the same problems i've been having and i'm incredibly grateful for your videos and the information you've shared.
You are an absolute SUPERSTAR! I discovered your channel a few days ago and have been thoroughly enjoying working my way through your videos. I love your editing style and your sense of humour.
Lovely stays!! If you want the front of the bum pad to be Lowe try sewing a hook to the front of your stays where you want the waist band to sit you can use one on either side as well) and then tie them on and hook the ties under the hooks! I have the same issue with being high waisted. I don't think its period correct but it works! The tabs at the bottom will be weighed down some by the petticoat but as someone who has worn courses and stays for 20 years, rigline is the devil and it will warp and poke and buckle over time. Zip ties are a bit better but its also got issues with buckling as you've found out. You may find that we you sit and move around that the tabs permanently kink outward. Plastic "whale bone" from German and metal bones are way more comfortable and forgiving.
Thank you for this video! I appreciate seeing your process as I stress about making my own
Found this just now - I also have a short waist, smaller waist to hip ratio and unfeasibly generous twins, with an apex about an inch lower than most patterns cater for (which also sits nearer the armsyce than most people)L Heck, most patterns don’t cater for my twins AND I have narrow shoulders. I’ve got this pattern, though I haven’t yet stitched it together and I’d already realised I was going to have to make short waist adjustments and extend the shoulder straps. I also recently drafted my own gravity defying padded half moon pads, a la Mariah Pattie and they help SO much with gravity defying.
Your video is so encouraging! I’m about to embark on my first stays make using the same pattern. Thank you for sharing what you learned. I’m looking forward to giving it a go!
They look amazing. Well done.
Those look really good! Comfortable, too!
Thank you for the videos they are helpful as I prepare to make this pattern myself. Btw your fashion fabric for the final stays is beautiful!
You look fabulous!
Love your titles (and subtitles)! AND - you have given me the courage to tackle stays!
Hello Colleen!
I am starting my shift and stays next weekend. Very good video!
I also have a wrist injury and can only do limited hand sewing. Thank you for showing me a way to bind my stays by machine.
I did it! I made a fitting mock-up. 🙌. Thank you so much. It was entirely with your help.
Hey Colleen,
Brava!
I love the corset! It’s very flattering on you. The bum pad looks a bit overstuffed so perhaps taking out some of the padding will help. From the back, it takes away from your pretty hourglass silhouette. Some corsets have hooks sewn into them to control any issues with riding up or twisting of the pad location.