2 Prong Receptacle Circuit Replaced by GFCI and Grounded Receptacles per 2020 NEC
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- čas přidán 28. 03. 2020
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![Complete Guide On Replacing/ Upgrading old 2 Prong Outlets [Short Wires, No Ground and more!]](/img/n.gif)
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Also see: Playlist: Electrical Wiring by Sparky Channel: czcams.com/play/PLSD43kAzjUITARtRyFqvVhmqwNm34Ck5k.html
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Oh my gosh this guy sounds just like Scotty Kilmer the car guru!
And don't forget to ring that bell!
So true!! He is the Electrical version!!
Glad I’m not the only one that was thinking the same thing.
Agreed!!!
No doubt! This dude should crawl out of an electrical panel instead of a trunk like Scotty.
My shop teacher in high school thought me brass is black, white is wide. BB and WW. It's something I never forgot, and so easy to remember. Of course this pertains to polarized outlets , but it's a great way to remember
That's excellent! ⚡
Been wiring and doing electrical work for 40 years If you want to learn the proper way and always do things right stay tuned to Sparky. He's awesome and also shows the code to support what he does
Thanks so much! That is a very great compliment!
very much agreed
@@SparkyChannel HI, can you clarify for all on this thread, older, 2 wire cloth "romex" (Not BX), isn't a grounded circuit / system?
@@billbaillie3702 Sparky is not an electrician.
I've watched 10 or so videos about this and FINALLY found your amazing video that lays everything out clearly. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped! Thanks!
I know it is not practical in this situation because you are not doing a re-wire, but I am betting with brand new romex installed, those voltage drop numbers would go way down. Your video definitely shows how dirty, old worn out receptacles can effect the circuit. I am imagining if somebody plugged in and ran a 1000w or 1500w space heater on the last receptacle downstream, those old romex wires in the wall would probably get pretty warm. I really only do Commercial and Industrial work these days , except for my own house, but I own one of those sure test testers myself and I love it. The one I have also includes AFCI function test. I am also a great fan of the Wagos. They conserve a lot of space in the cramped boxes. Great video! Russ- Journeyman Electrician-25 years in the Trade.
Yeah, over 200W of heat inside the walls is a problem waiting to happen.
When my elderly parents sold their house they had bought in the 60s, the realtor told them they had to upgrade all the bathroom and kitchen outlets from three prong outlets to GFCIs to meet code .
They called in an electrician who gave them an estimate of $2000 for ten outlets!
While visiting there in Boston for work, I did the job for them in a couple of hours costing about $100 total.
that's because the licensed electrician had to pay insurance for his liability, although 200$ an outlet seems kind of high!
Wow! You saved them $1900! And you did OK making the $100!!!
@@SparkyChannel The $100 was to buy the GFCI outlets. At that time you could buy a GFCI for $10
I did the work for free.
@@williardbillmore5713 How many bathrooms? In a typical house you would only need 2 GFCI in the kitchen to protect the left of the sink area (one circuit) and the right of the sink area (another circuit). Maybe a third one for a kitchen island circuit. And one in each bathroom. It would be pretty hard to get to 10 outlets. Did you replace every outlet, rather than just the first receptacle in each circuit? The GFCI receptacle will protect all receptacles downstream from it.
@@mr.g937 As I recall, two full bathrooms and a small powder room. Basement laundry had two circuits one dedicated for washer and dryer and one on the other side of the set tub that also protected two outlets at the wet bar. Kitchen had one on each side of the sink and the disposal under the sink that had been added on to the basement lights circuit. Finished off with one circuit dedicated to a basement sump pump and one by the barbecue on the other side of the patio that was on the garage circuit. I protected the three outlets in the garage with the last one. The whole job took me less than three hours.
A $2,000 job it wasn't. I couldn't see letting them pay $2,000 to an electrician that didn't have to pull a single foot of wire to do the job.
As a home owner and amateur electrician, I think that this is one of the best videos on residential electrical installation that I have seen.
Thanks so much Thomas!
Thanks for not giving up despite all the difficulties you’ve faced. Appreciate your content and dedication to your craft!
My pleasure! Thanks!
Phenomenal tutorial!! I want to do this and started searching so I can learn. I just finished rebuilding my freezers defrost system saving myself thousands on a new refrigerator. All thanks to CZcams video tutorials. My husband always did anything and everything and I would help but he died and I’m on my own. But I do have tools of all kinds. I’ve actually had to use CZcams to learn how to use a few of them like the multimeter. I’m loving this learning. I can’t afford contractors and repairmen so I’ll learn to do it myself. This was one of his projects on his list of ‘to do’ before he passed. Thank you so much.
same here the dealership wanted to charge me over $400.00 to replace a in cabin filter in my car and after watching youtube I did it myself in 30 minutes for less the $15.00 huge savings!!!
Sorry to hear of your loss. Best wishes!
Denise, same situation. My husband died and I'm now alone with two littles and a house to maintain. I found a handy man but it's 60 an hour!! I'm learning to do things myself to save money.
@@krreyem7543 $400 to replace what?!!? 😳🪦😭🤣😆
Major salute to you! 🙏🏾💪🏾🙌🏾
First time I actually understood how to safely (and to code) fix 2 prong outlets to modern 3 prong with no ground in an older house. Other videos explained the same thing, but they still left me wondering if I got the info right. Because you went over why and how with the addition of tools; it finally clicked in my brain and makes perfect sense. THANK YOU!
Fantastic! I do try to show the codes. That increases everyone's confidence. Also, good tools make the job so much easier!
This one clip concisely synthesized all I've read, watched, and thought about re: my next improvement project on a small 1922 farmhouse with knob-and-tube wiring. Outstanding!
Great video, I bought that analyzer and working on a 1953 house . Everything is going great. Thank You!!
If you do what you just showed in houses wired with romex or conduit where the circuits go from one outlet to the next, this "work around" for two wire receptacles (no ground conductor) works. Many "older" houses, however, are "knob and tube" wired. With that method of wiring, the extensions (branches) of the circuit that continue downstream to the remaining outlets cannot be "interrupted" by the GFCI device since all the splices are made INSIDE THE WALLS instead of in the outlets. All of the original wired outlets will only have two wires going to the device. You would need to install a GFCI device at EVERY outlet.
thanks for this! i was wondering why some ppl replace EVERY outlet with GFCI -
Excellent advice Pappa Bob!
Thank you Sparky and Pappa Bob. I have a house with knob and tube along with romex. No ground anywhere. A licensed electrician wants $5k to install new gfci's and switches. Waaaaaayyy too much money. Based on the video and comments, I can do the job myself for about $300. This includes gfci's in each outlet.
I tried using those connectors and had a bunch of problems with failed connections. I went back to wire nuts and never have a problem. Great video, very informative.
Thanks!
I'm shocked at the simplicity. Back at ITT tech in 05-07 we had to calcuate Vd manually. That device for Vd, VL, wow.. Now i'm excited about the field. We have so many useful great tools available! Great video!
Thanks Sparky I need to use this info in a 1953 fixer house I just bought. I’m also going to run some new receptacles from the updated breaker box. Your information is excellent.
Thanks Sparky Channel, this was an outstanding video. Two excellent tips I picked up from watching this were: (1) How to find the most upstream outlet in a series of outlets, and (2) how to wire all the outlets to provide continuity of hot and neutral lines to all the outlets even if there is physical damage to one upstream outlet.
Just these two tips alone made the video worth watching. And please note that you can use these tips even if you don't have the expensive circuit analyzer hardware shown in this video. And another thing: those Wago connector nuts are great!
Thanks so much!
Thank you. For someone like me , with only a very basic understanding of house wiring systems, this was a wonderful help.
Great to hear!
Thanks Sparky! Happy to see you’re still sharing your knowledge with us.
You bet! Good to hear from you, how have you been?
The most interesting parts of this video to me were the part where you pointed out the NEC guidelines regarding this type of scenario, as well as the nice tools you used. I've never seen the tester which shows voltage drop. It looks very useful.
This video answered my questions that have bothered me, the hole upstream now makes sense to me. The light bulb went on over my head, love those moments of understanding. Thanks Sparky
Glad it helped, thanks!
I know it's not typically the type of videos you produce, but it would be interesting to see you re-wire at least 1 of these circuits to be grounded and see what you do and how you do it.
Hey Bill - I subscribed when you first lost your channel and got hacked to help boost your new one. ... But now, I am a homeowner and actively using your videos to learn and implement proper code, wiring, and knowledge. Thank you so much !
Fantastic, thanks so much!
This dude reminds me of Scotty Kilmer but for electrical work instead of mechanics.
Rev up those receptacles! ⚡
Rev up 'ur engines!
Sparky, you have a Teaching Spirit; Kudos for clear, concise, no-nonsense videos John 14:6
Thanks so much!
Thank you for this video. A quick review of this and I corrected my issues with a new GFCI outlet, and saved me money on buy more outlets than I needed to.
this honestly got me VERY excited to become a professional electrician, this is the kind of hands on, precise work i want to do! thank you for the great information and inspiration Sparky! 🤝🏼👍🏼
Best explanation video I have seen in a while! Great job! I'll be starting my renovation right away! Thank you
Thanks and best wishes! ⚡
I have a house I acquired 5 years ago that I suspect might have some DIY improvements that resulted in several circuits that might be questionable. Now I know how to inspect and confirm where the problem areas are. Thanks!
No problem, thanks!
You literally answered all on my questions about changing an outlet to GFCI in a 1950s wired house
Excellent!
Great and strait forward. From a retired master electrician. I hope people listen to you. Mike from Maryland
Really good video thanks for explaining it so clearly I'm sure everyone else watching this video is happy to learn especifics about electric details as me thanks great video.
I'm sure your tired of hearing about Scotty Kilmer buuuttttttt booyyyyy when I heard him talking about home electrical work, knowing I didn't hear any burnouts, I was super confused 😂
Great video! Lol
LOL! I don't know Scotty at all, but I do watch some of his videos. :)
@@SparkyChannel two totally different fields, true story but beyond that your presentation technique allows me to watch the entire video without wrecking my nerves. No disrespect to Scotty but I'm too high strung for all his level of enthusiasm.
Very useful -- I learned about circuit analyzers and in fact ordered one. I'm in electronics, not an electrician, and had realized it was theoretically possible to compute voltage drop by sampling with a lighter but known load, and was even thinking about how to invent such a gadget, but am glad someone has done it! Since one of the first tests I need to make is the quality of the AC power going into equipment, this is ideal.
Hi Michael! Yes, it will tell you about the quality of the AC power and it will tell you the quality of your grounds as well. Thanks!
I am sure somebody has already said this, but a GFCI protected circuit is actually safer than a grounded circuit because while a grounded circuit provides a path for shorted current, GFCI actually turns off the circuit when it detects a short. The only downside to GFCI is certain high end electronics have power supplies that behave in ways that make GFCI think there is a short when there is not.
if you dont put "a path for shorted current" and a hot wire is touching the metal case of some a appliance, then the GFCI wont turn off the power until some folk touches the case and gets shock! (human body makes the path to earth)... you should have both thing on your electrical wiring (protective earth conductor and GFCI)
@@miguelm203 The GFCI will cut the power as soon as current goes to the case because at the moment something shorts to the case the hot/neutral current imbalance is created which trips GFCI.
Your auto mechanic videos are great too!
LOL! Sometimes when I'm editing my videos I'm amazed how much I sound like Scotty. Not all the time, but once in a while. :)
So filled with valuable information and so well explained even to a nearly 50 year veteran of the power generation industry!
I replaced over 50 old/dirty/ivory outlets over the past 3 months (weekends only) with fresh white decora in our house in Oakland, CA, which is what flippers do when they flip houses - thanks for your videos!
No problem, thanks!
I have no idea why I am watching this, I should be studying for a fluid mechanics test
Thanks and good luck with your test!
Very nice. Insulated screwdriver, electrical tape to avoid shorting, vacuuming box. Great workmanship!
Thanks so much! 👍
Thanks so much!
Always think about doing it SAFELY on the job you're about to do or it may be your LAST job you will ever do. Zap, pop, burn, death....
You are a very good instructor! For someone who had no clue about electrical matters - I now understand the process of converting two prong outlets to a GFCI. I was about to spend thousands rewiring old knob and tube wiring that is in good condition and now realize it is not necessary. Thank you!
Sir, I think your misunderstand the point. A grounded receptacle is very useful in protecting your devices and yourself. The code allows for the replacement of non-grounded receptacles with grounded, but it certainly is not the ideal option. Grounds are very important. I did a service call today where a ladies water heater connections were loose causing extreme heat in the junction box so much so that it melted the wire nuts completely off the connection. She asked why it didn't trip the breaker? Very simple, there was no ground to the water heater. Standards breakers require a ground or all you have is welding rods all over your home and inside your walls. My customer was very fortunate that It was an easy fix. Trust me, you want grounds.
Please change out that knob and tube as soon as you can.
@@SparkyChannel grounded gfcis are in bathrooms and kitchen of a 100 yr old house. Rewiring a 4 bed 2 bath house at a cost of $7500 is impractical just for lights. My understanding is that Adding a gfci to those outlets will help to protect from hazards. Until a full rewiring can be done in phases. at least that's the plan.
I like the solution for the old two prong non grounded outlets and it doesn't involve having to run new romex with a ground. And the charmer is that it's compliment with the NEC codes latest revisions. We have a lot of old houses that are 50 years old and older. Spark on brother!
Thanks so much!
those wagos are a god send for having to replace dimmers.
Yes, they are!
Great video. Subscribed.
I loved how you pull out the national electric code book. This is great because it quites all hacks.
Thanks Cory!
Sparky. Glad to see you're back up and running again!
Hi George! It's great to hear from you! Yes, things are going great!
I think you did a great job taking a step-by-step as to what you were doing even though it was a little long but I was also very glad to see you reading from the electrician's code to ensure you were doing it accurately. The one thing I would have liked to see after you wired the outlet was to get a close up of the back side of the outlet and point out each wire hot return ground because I felt like you put it back into the outlet on the wall too quickly for me to really get a good picture of what went where even though you went over that in the beginning when you were wiring it, one more time I think would have helped.
Thank you for a very detailed articulate look at rewiring outlets on an old house.
Congrats ! Great video, very informátive..nothing flashy and distracting about it very educational. You just got a new follower
Thanks so much!
14.5% drop! This is enormous. If some appliance use the full 15 Amps here, this mean 260 Watt is heating the line in the wall.
Yikes! And it might not be spread out all along the wire -- it might be one hot spot! Applicances probably don't work well on 103 volts, either. Let's hope this circuit is lightly loaded. Not a good place to plug in a space heater.
I swear every house I've moved to in North Carolina has had electrical problems, like extremely dangerous electric problems. One house caught on fire and three others had to be rewired. The one I'm in now needs electrical work too. I aint never in my life seen this type of stupid bs. Never had any problems when I lived in Florida for 27 years. These people up here in NC are dangerously stupid and ignorant.
Every minute was worth watching this video! The way you explain the hole process is amazing meaning that you know what you’re doing. Thank you very much for sharing!!
My pleasure, thanks so much!
Excellent video! you are a great instructor like there aren’t so many out there you explained very well. Thank you so much,sir.
ive heard from too many people on other vids, many claiming to be electricians that if the outlet and box is NOT grounded, you need to have a GFCI in every single box.
so you can understand that i dont know WHO to believe.
i feel like im leaning your way. :D
Just follow the NEC code and you'll be fine.
@@SparkyChannel I was taught the same. The litmus test is to use an outlet tester with a GFCI test button on the downstream receptacles. They will not trip the GFCI receptacle, as that is relayed through a ground wire (which isn't present). So the downstream receptacles are not GFCI protected if you can't trip the GFCI receptacle from them. On a grounded circuit you would trip the GFCI from any downstream receptacle. Bottom line, it's not protected if the GFCI doesn't trip when there's an issue. Hence, you need GFCI receptacles at each outlet on an ungrounded circuit.
This video was done correctly. The other videos might be correct, or they could be wrong; they could be wrong if they had the downstream GFCI receptacles coming off of the load terminals of the upstream GFCI - that is not allowed.
15:05 Thanks for explaining why you used the Wago Lever Nut to create a pigtail instead of just connecting the two hot and two neutral wires directly to each screw on the outlet. (So damage to outlet won’t affect current flow down stream.)
But seriously, how much damage to an outlet are we expecting in a damn bedroom?! I see 4 wires, and 4 screw terminals specifically designed for daisy-chaining receptacles. There is a brass plate connecting the two screws on each side of the socket... So, unless you're running into the wall with your damn car, shit ain't gonna just break on its own! (And if your car is lodged in your wall, I'm pretty sure you don't give a crap about the socket down the hall being out of service! lol)
On deciding how to do stuff, when did common sense get substituted for extreme doomsday scenarios?! This seems like a very clear case of a marketing department making shit up to sell Wago Lever Nuts! The multitude of sponsored links is not going unnoticed either... ;-]
@@robertcartier5088
receptacles age, get abused and fail. IF the first in line malfunctions, you will loose service to all on that are on that circuit AND you will loose all the work on the spreadsheet you were working on!!
@@yiannimil1 Wait, your bedroom sockets are getting that much wear & tear? Good for you! ;-]
You almost had me with that last bit about the spreadsheet, but I use a laptop, so minor, localized power failures are not really a problem.
I'M just not convinced that there will be abuse and age degradation of the product making that terminal connection block fail, that's all. Not worth all that effort and extra expense just for the infinitesimal chance of physical failure of that magnitude. I have confidence that the manufacturer, who's name is on every product, knows how to make a receptacle that is immune to the damages caused by irrational fears! Call me an optimist! ;-]
@@robertcartier5088 All the outlets on the 2nd floor of my old farm house are 2 prong outlets and some of them are looking a bit scary. I know they are probably being overtaxed by modern uses. Some don’t even want to hold in a plug very securely anymore. I can tell you that with age, they do deteriorate. One of the many fun things you might try to fix when you live in a old house that even predates technologies such as electricity and indoor plumbing itself.
My 1961 on slab home in Thousand Oaks had two prong receptacles. Installed GFI's on two wire wiring.....Worked fine, in the electrical code
Excellent video Sparky. You never fail to disappoint. Bless you, man!!
There is a lot of good information here. I thought I knew it all, but I didn't
Thanks Mark!
Bill thanks for this video. This is extremely helpful for the wiring in my 1950s house. Cheers
Cheers from San Diego Jason! :)
@@SparkyChannel how much plugs can go on a double 20 amp circuit breaker??
Sir you did a great job showing, explaining and doing a proper grounding job on a older house and especially explaining the code by showing it as written was bonus. Again great job sir
Thanks Sam!
Outstanding, very well detailed. Thank you for introducing me to the Suretest; that's going into my kit for sure.
My pleasure, thanks!
My dad used to just cut the 3rd prong off of cords (not safe to do) when we used to have 2 prong outlets and my mom absolutely hates those 2 prong outlets so my dad and I replaced them all with 3 prong but here’s an interesting thing, all the boxes in the house were grounded which is extremely rare.
Some older homes were wired with armored cable, also known as BX, with metal boxes, the metal jacket on the cable is used as a ground. Some homes built in the mid 50s to early 60s, just prior to the 1962 requirement of grounding type receptacles, were wired with the old style cloth braided NM cable, with a very small, maybe 16 or 18 awg ground wire wrapped around the clamp of a metal box where it cannot be seen. My guess is when grounded NM cable was in it's very infancy, old timers were like "where does this new fangled bare wire go to? Everything has always worked fine without it " In the trade this is called back-wrapping, I've seen it in a couple of 1950s ranch style homes.
Yes always intentionally ground your metal boxes per 250.4,250.8 etc
I changed out a 20amp grounded unit today and the load wires had to be switched to the line wire spot on both sides. Took me an hour to figure that out just moving wires from one unit to another. And I had to Google it. Apparently I'm not the only one to stumped with a solid green light. I think it's good to know how to do stuff but it's also good to know when to call an expert, be it painter, plumber or electrician. Most folks should probably not fuss about with what you're doing here. But hey, you have us fair warning!
Most FANTASTIC electrical installation and explanation. Great job !!
Thanks Don!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Great video, question, why not install a GFI circuit breaker?
That's probably because of the circuit panel. They probably don't make one to fit that old panel. Most of the old ones I work on won't take one.
I’ve been trying to find out how to find the most up stream receptacle for months, this is exact what I needed
Excellent!
Those Wago connectors look nice!
If you're going to use Wagos, use the ones like those with the lever, and not the simple stab-in ones.
Sparky in one of your videos you showed how to replace all of your two prong plugs to a Gfic and if one tripped it didn’t affect the rest of them, could you tell me what video that was and how to find it.
Answered a question I had been thinking about….GFI does NOT need a grounding wire for it to function.
I did this several years ago in my old (1929) house. I installed GFCIs at the locations closest to the panel and replaced all the two prong outlets, marking them "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground" as indicated in this video. When I was done I was initially surprised that the circuit tester indicated both proper wiring and grounding, but realized that the existing BX cable jacket is acting as a ground conductor...acting...but not code approved ground because unlike modern AC there is not a continuous grounding conductor contained within the cable. I think my installation as marked and labled is within the code after repeated readings of the sections you cited in the video, but I think I want "real" approved grounding. Over the next few years we will be removing and replacing lots of failing plaster and lath, and between opening the walls and the access to the wiring afforded in the attic and the basement we should be able to replace the existing runs of BX with either Romex or AC, providing a continuous grounding conductor all the way back to the grounding bus in the main panel.
Watching these videos does give me more confidence that the small repairs I have done in the past were done correctly, but they are also illuminating the boundaries of my ignorance, leaving me more likely to call an electrician to make repairs that I might have considered doing on my own when I was younger.
Thank you. This is an awesome video. This is exactly something I want to do as my house is a 2 prong plug, non grounded nightmare. My questions were answered in this video.
Fantastic, thanks Tim!
11:45 I have never forgotten to turn the breaker off...... It's shocking how much I know about electrical work.
Sounds good!
Great video , very well explained. This is extremely helpful for homes built in the early 60s and 50s. My daughters house has non grounded duplexes in parts of her home. Your video has given me the opportunity to proved her protection on those outlets that aren’t grounded. I have a question about aluminum wiring. My daughters home is 100 amp service all copper wiring throughout. Someone has installed a single aluminum wire circuit some time ago. There are only two duplexes on this circuit. I was changing out the old duplex to a new one as the old one was worn and loose when you plunges in a lamp. When I removed the old duplex I noticed the at neutral (white wire) was burned on both terminals. Could you possibly prove an explanation as to why on the non feed side of the circuit would get over load and burn. I checked the service panel and the aluminum circuit is on its own 15 amp circuit breaker and is tied (wired) to the black wire. Thank you your time. Mike
Hi Mike! I would guess that the burned wire was a loose wire. As we say, "loose wires cause fires!"
And even if it was tight when it was installed, oxidation deteriorates the aluminum, making it smaller, therefore loose. You can get duplex receptacles made for aluminum conductors to avoid oxidation.
I'm working on doing this in my house which was built in 1959 and had expansions sometime in the 70s, so every video about this subject is greatly helpful. Thank you. The trickiest part for me is that the house is still on fuses (the lightbulb socket type) and the layout makes no sense. I started in a bedroom I've converted into an office which only has two outlets, both of which are on different circuits. I put a GFCI on the more important outlet (along with the "no equipment ground" label), but it's at the end of a line. I'm planning to really map things out this fall when the garage where the breaker is located isn't a sweltering and dusty sauna. Again, thanks for your video.
Sounds good. I love the older homes!
Thank you for that explanation and how to!! Very helpful. Now I know how to use that circuit analyzer!
Are their cheaper analyzers than what you are using? Especially for diy.
I was just wondering, I have a circuit that goes from the front of the house, through the front room, through the dining room, and along the east wall of the kitchen. I don't know which the first outlet is, but my kitchen sink is on the east wall and no gfci receptacles anywhere, not even below the sink. Someone added an outlet for a microwave. But I've been wanting to put a gfci in for coverage around the sink. I saw online people were saying DO NOT put a microwave on a gfci. Is this accurate? I can put one closest to the sink, which I think is after the microwave on the line. But I'd like to put one at the beginning of the line. Thanks for any info.
Best video I've seen on replacing outlets. Thank you.
Glad it helped, thanks!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is the video I referenced when I found your new channel after your other one was hacked. This is the exact thing I need to do in my house.
Excellent. I'm glad that I could find it!
It looks like your GFCI is not grounded?
Would your GFCI circuit pass rental inspection test, for outlets within 6 feet of water faucets?
Does this GFCI still provide the intended protection?
That is a good question. Not sure if it would pass a rental inspection, but if that GFCI pops, it will shut down the remaining 6 receptacles in the downstream.
It was a great demonstration. I'm dealing with a similar situation at a rental property.
@@tii2015 If I don;t forget, I'll let you know what happens with mine, or if i Learn more, although I have not even scheduled the inspection yet. But, my due date to be all done in November 1. I am working with city of Detroit. What city are you dealing with?
I had an older house and the wiring was in metallic flex which was attached to the panel. It turned out that this was the "ground" in this system. In this video is it possible that the box, if metallic, is grounded and may be used as a ground?
Yes, but you never know until you test it. Some metal boxes are grounded...others aren't. I'm guessing he knew his boxes weren't grounded?
I love this video. Super helpful. Citing the code was a great touch. And I also clicked through and bought the goodies that you recommended. That was almost as helpful as the video. Getting the right tools!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks Joseph!
Thank you for making this video. Great for training purposes. Thank you again!!
The intro gave me flashbacks to another CZcamsr who goes by Scotty Kilmer
Rev em up
Instead of replacing the first outlet with gfci at the breaker? Or would that not fit the code?
It would be great but there are no GFCI breakers available for the old main panel.
Thanks for this video, Bill. I have been in the field for 3 years now, mainly doing new construction and renovation with open framing. I have always wondered how to apply the theory in this type of scenario without having to break open any walls; so that I can trace the circuit back to the panel. Thank you, again.
The "Sure Test" is a really neat meter isn't it? No problem, thanks!
This video was very helpful. It addresses the exact situation in my home. I grew up in a home that was built in the 1930s. We were constantly hunting for two prong adapters. Fast forward twenty years and I bought a home built in 1970’s and it has the old two wire electrical circuits. I hate that!!! Every time I go to plug in a grounded device, I have flashbacks of that old house I grew up in and I start cussing. You might call it three prong adapter PTSD. 😂 I sincerely appreciate how organized the video was made and the knowledge it has given me so I may address my three prong adapter PTSD in my home. For that I will be clicking on the affiliate links to do my purchases of tools and supplies as you have earned any benefit that provides. Thank you for the cure to my three prong adapter PTSD.
Interesting to hear a home built in the 70s has 2 prong receptacles. My region, Orange County, Southern California, required homes built 1964 and later to be grounded and bonded per code adopted. It used to be NEC dictated all parts of the USA had to meet new NEC code in new construction and if the locality wanted stricter rules, then the locality's regulation overruled the latest NEC rule. But if the locality wanted less stringent regulations, that was declared illegal by federal law.
@afishyfella, if you have a 3 prong adapter and a circuit tester to see if your receptacle is bonded, you can test it by removing the faceplate screw, plugging the 3 to 2 prong adapter into the receptacle, then secure the grounding tab to the outlet. From there, see if the tester shows correct wiring. If the box is metal and it shows ground, you might have conduit or sheath metal cable running to the box and panel. That was how some homes got their outlet boxes bonded to the breaker panel and grounding rods in the 70s.
@@maxheadroom8857 Well, we live in Arkansas, and yes those are banjos you hear in the background! LoL.
@@maxheadroom8857 Thanks for the tip. I'll have to give that a try.
I assume one would have to actually run a ground wire back to the service box in order to have an equipment ground rated circuit?
Yes.
The code also requires AFCI protection for any replaced receptacle in a living space (not unfinised basement, garage, outside and the like), so the head receptacle should be a GFCI/AFCI combo type, which, as stated, protects all downstream receptacles. While you're at it, pay a few cents more for tamper-proof receptacles to save 400 shocks and 12 juvenile deaths per year. There are shutters that only open when two prongs are inserted. (I remember shoving a bobby pin in a receptacle as a 3 year old, but still can't explain why I did it.)
Thank you for taking the time to walk us through this. I have benefited greatly and appreciate your help-
No problem, thanks!
Thank you. Very helpful and informative. At the very least I now know what questions to ask when I have my various issues addressed.
You are so welcome!
Seven outlets on one circuit seems like a lot! Is there a limit to how many receptacles you can have on one branch circuit?
7 receptacles is far to many in my opinion. It should be 4 receptacles per 15 amp circuit branch for a total of 8 outlets. It may deffer depending on code in your area. It's not exactly unsafe to have that many receptacles if every thing is wired correctly and working correctly (Notice I said correctly) but it would be rally easy to plug too many things in when you have 14 outlets to plug into with this guys situation. Like space heaters or something stupid. It would be annoying if you trip the breaker constantly. It could be dangerous if you have a bad breaker that does not trip. Like fire dangerous. So you really should only have 4 receptacles per 15 amp circuit branch. 20 amp circuit branches allow 5 receptacles. Again it all depends on code in your area. Keep in mind code is minimum safety standards. Also be sure to test your breakers once a year. I'm not an electrician I just read a lot and work on my own home so take that as you will. All that being said the guy is probably fine. He does not seem like an idiot and this was a really informative video on use of tools. Personally I would rewire what is most likely knob and tube in this situation (Knob and tube is normally fine as long as you don't have blown in insulation or a bunch piggy back runs) but if you cant rewire, a GFCI is the least you can do or better yet a GFCI/AFCI combo for peace of mind. They even sell those in breaker form. They're about $70 a pop but cheaper than a house fire.
@@givemeinformation Right on, thank you for the thoughtful response! I'm in my second quarter of trade school for electrical technology and we've never wired more than 4 receptacles on a single branch circuit. I see what you mean about drawing too much power. Even if the breaker trips, it would happen fairly often which is bad for the breaker over time and a failure to open all ungrounded conductors in a circuit could lead to a serious fire.
You can actually remove wires that have been backstabbed if you pull an twist.
Thanks!
Great use of the circuit analyzer to narrow down the upstream device. The Amprobe INSP-3 is a similar tester that can provide a lot of info on a circuit. Big fan of the Wago lever-nuts also, they make troubleshooting so much easier. Great video. This seems like the most cost effective way to upgrade 2 prong receptacles to 3 prong, rather than a GFCI breaker.
Thanks Brian!
Awesome! Sparky's videos are great...my go to place for correct how-to instruction! Kudos Sparky, and thank you!
Wtf it’s the Scotty Kilmer of home improvement!
LOL!
Rev up your outlets!
yea here.is scotty:)
Great video. Very informative. I learned several things I didn't know about outlets and circuitry. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Your efficiency inspires me. I learned a lot watch and listening. Thank you sir.
Excellent! Thanks Al!
So how would you go about grounding the circuit? Would that require all new wiring for every outlet? 🤔
In specific cases, you can use the raceway carrying the conductors as the EGC, but since this is residential, it is most-likely not running through any metal raceways that you could use as the EGC. At least not all the way from the panel to the outlet box.
So, yes you would have to completely rewire the circuit with 12/2 Romex to properly ground it.
@@PepperStone3 Is that allowed? My parent's home had lots of metal conduit and BX. Sometimes the run would be interrupted by 'new' work -- losing the ground connection. I even came across a connection where there was only a single wire -- the hot wire -- in the conduit and the conduit itself was used as the return, i.e., neutral -- not cool!
@@sanityassassin8161 I'm my house I've seen some ground wires connected to the copper water pipes! It's been hard to trace where those ground wires originate though.
@@PepperStone3 Can you say reword this for us non-electrician (lay people)? -->" the raceway carrying the conductors as the EGC".
What is a 'racewy'?
'Carrying the conductors"?
'EGC'?
Thanks.
How do you ground the GFCI?