Hobby Cheating 173 - Stripping vs Repainting Miniatures
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial I take you through the idea of stripping vs. repainting. When should you strip a miniature and when should you just paint over top. I give you my rules I use to make the decision in hopes I can save you some time and get better painted miniatures faster.
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella
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There's a miniature stripper that works at a gentleman's club down by the airport
I have stripped my armies several times. I think after 2 years of painting, my paint coats were already thin enough and didn't need stripping.
Stripping is also a painful process, the liquid you're handling are usually not pleasant to say the list, or toxic, often both. Even if you have an ultrasonic cleaner some removal are still required to properly remove all the layers. Using a toothbrush takes too much time, and using an electric toothbrush will make the liquids fly everywhere, and your landlord will not be happy.
If the coats were already all gone, and you didn't need to brush them off, that probably means you really didn't need to strip it in the first place.
The environment is really nasty, and usually I don't want to reuse those liquids, so I always end up cleaning dozens of minis at a time. Remember, it's really nasty.
The last time I stripped my army was 2022, I made some painful decisions and stripped off a lot, then I realized I already had the money and space to just start an exact same army, but regrets couldn't bring those paintings back. I still haven't finished repainting them
Great tips as always, my friend! I've recently started to move away from stripping everything. Working with previous paint always felt "less proper " but I think the guidelines you discussed are perfect.
~ Wolfbrother Methos
Excellent, I don't generally waste time on proper. :)
When I first got into the hobby I purchased an entire army from eBay and decided to strip it entirely. A week and several snapped ligaments later I achieved just that, and began applying primer after reassembling Unfortunately, being a complete novice at the time I made the mistake of holding my miniatures too close while spraying and obscured most details of about half my army; I had to restrip about 1000pts of Eldar models.
I was lucky I had friends who could show me what was and was not usable, and now dear friends you have Vince and this hobby cheating video! :)
Don't be me folks. Learn from my mistakes. Mind the distance and weather when priming out of a can. ( '._.)
That is definitely a struggle - hope it's gotten easier since then and hope the videos helped. :)
I'm in the process of stripped and repainting my Eldar too. I was in a hurry and botched a lot of things.
What perfect timing - I was just preparing to strip my old Chaos army from years ago and your well reasoned discussion has made that unnecessary. Cheers!
Happy to help as alwys. :)
This is perfect! I am in the process of stripping and painting my 2nd Edition Eldar Warhost. But this repainting video made me realize I can preserve my Harlequins since I've done good work on them already
There you go!
This is a great topic. I have an old army that is painted neatly, but flat. No highlights and shading. I feel obligated to "enhance " these old figures with some edge highlights and washes, rather than put it in a box and start a new force, or strip and re-paint.
Thanks for the perspective!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
If you don't know the paints, don't have experience of the painting techniques and you're experimenting on a few minis which are part of 70+ army that you're going to paint with a similar paint scheme and you need every single unit for play I reckon it's ok to strip those initial failed experiments.
Sure, it's always okay to strip anything, I mean it's your miniature. :) - My hope is to steer people away from feeling like they have to strip everything anytime they don't like how a single miniature (or part of a miniature) turns out. :)
@@VinceVenturella I think that the big fear is that if you don't strip and you just paint layer upon layer then you lose detail and that happens if one doesn't think their paints adequately; this is usually a beginners painting problem though.
I used to strip so many but now i tend to just repaint most as i do my layers thin enough to be able to repaint thankfully, i do tend to strip any i get off eBay and so on just for that fresh start feeling, have loads of 90s Kev Adams goblins to give the stipping treatment to as my next project....
Makes sense.
The Daemonettes are very disappointed you didn't strip them...
You got me on that one. :)
Winsor Newton brush cleaner can be used for spot stripping on metal and resin figures. I have redone so many right eyes which have gotten muddy, this stuff takes off the paint to bare metal without messing with the rest of the figure. Haven't tried it on plastic.
Also cleans any dried paint from your brushes.
Interesting, I do have it and have used it to clean brushes, never thought about that use, I'll give it a try.
I started a tau scheme and then saw a half finished model that stil had white armor plating and just some parts colored and like that way better than a fully ochre team, so I considered stripping them all, and then decided to watch vince v's advice on it
Always happy to help.
Thank you. I was looking for just this guideline. I happen to be very unhappy with a color scheme. I used underpainting and glazing. On the next try I will try a different scheme using Howl Corp AirChop and I guess I will just airbrush a coat of mid tone over the existing paint job and will be good to go :-)
Thank you for your work :-)
Glad I could help!
Vincey V heart ❤ My man. You just saved me so much lifeforce
Always happy to help!
simple rule: if they're your minis, keep'em as is, if possible. shows your progress.
I usually only strip and repaint minis I bought of eBay, traded with others, or have been given to. and most of the time they are, you guessed it, made either partially or completely out of metal. paint stripping is necessary, because most of them are very badly painted, details clogged, etc.
also, the condition the minis are in (covered in mold, chipped coating, etc.). the worse the condition, the easier the choice.
type of material used to cast the mini: as stated, metal is the most forgiving regarding paint stripping. resin and plastic can only be stripped with isopropanol safely, all other methods I tried tend to dissolve the material (used leftover sprues to test, so no mini was lost or harmed).
having said all the above:
as a rule of conduct, I made a promise to myself to always paint strip minis I've speed painted (just a quik'n'derty ready-to-game-colour-scheme, which shows a lot of mistakes and chips easily. I mostly paint like that, when I need an army for tournaments). I never use varnish on these, as that makes it harder to get them clean. the minute I have an idle moment, they get repainted and more presentable. I could save myself the work and be more precise with the paint jobs, but I often do last minute changes to my army roster and that would make it harder to get ready for the tournament.
I like all of these thoughts and guidance. Seems perfectly reasonable.
just talked me out of getting a gt sonic cleaner! WOO!!
Yeah, it's a fine enough tool, but honestly not necessary.
excellent discussion
Thank you, I thought this might help some folks make the decision if they are less familiar.
I'm learning how to airbrush, and I think I obscured some detail by over priming with like 6 miniatures. Is that something you've encountered in the past? Great work, keep it up!
It can happen, it's more likely with a rattle can, but it can happen with an airbrush if you overspray. If you have that situation, stripping is pretty much the option.
Thanks Vince! @@VinceVenturella
Hey Vince. I've been working on a model for a while. Whilst painting, I decided that her hair needed smoothing out, so I started wet sanding down the primer. But, being a strange resin, the primer peeled up rather than sanding smoothly, like Stynlrez normally does.
Before I knew it, I had sheets of paint coming off, and stripping was my only option.
I doubt I'm going to repaint her any time soon, likely, she'll end up in the bin.
Well, I wouldn't throw here away, but when you have that situation, yeah, that is a time you pretty much have to strip.
In the future, if you’re able to, always wash your resin models first to avoid this from happening. The peeling was due to painting over unwashed mold release
Vince, instead of stripping off the paint, could I just prime over the model and repaint all over again? Would be it building up too many layers and destroy the details?
Absolutely, I do it all the time.
Neat video, Vince, thanks! When just "painting over", would you consider painting the opposite color on the color wheel to strongly de-saturate the previous color, or do you straight up try to go to the target color? (I mean what cases would you not go to the final color? I'm pretty sure you've already mentionned yellow would be one such case, where applying white first would very likely be a good step. Any other? Painting green over orange to neuter it before you go to purple, for instance?)
So it depends - sometimes I will just prime over (with an airbrush, it's so thin, it's not hurting anything). If I am just resetting an area, then I use something neutral. Like an ivory for warm colors and a grey for cold, usually the Vallejo Extra Opaque series. That resets the area to neutral with minimal additional paint application.
I primed some stormtroopers long ago and went way too heavy and lost tons of detail. Being the first thing I painted i just let it slide. Having gotten better I've decided that if i ever catch up on painting everything else for star wars legion, i will go back and strip one squad at a time and completely redo them.
Yeah, in the primer case, you have to strip, it's unfortunate, but it's the case.
How would you recommend I go about stripping faulty layers of priming from GW spray primers? I've been meaning to get an airbrush so I can just prime very thinly and not have to worry about the outside weather or how temperamental a spray can is going to be, which is a whole other conversation, but right now I'm trying to strip primer jobs i did which are either too grainy or too thick, and I've tried everything and for a couple models i cannot get the primer off, mostly ones sprayed with chaos black. My cheapo ultrasonic cleaner kicked the bucket, a toothbrusu with isopropyl alcohol nor la's totally awesome cleaner isn't doing much. Help?
I've found soaking in Purple Power for 48 hours and then scrubbing uner warm water with a toothbrush will pull most anything off.
@@VinceVenturella tyvm Vince
I have a miniature that is only partially painted but in a very dark colour. I was going to just prime it again rather than strip it. What do you think?
SHould be able to just reprime.
The ogre definitely needs to be the protagonist in some basing tutorials.
;-D
Clearly, he's had a long good life, he deserves a base.
I strip ALL my old gaming (warhammer fantasy) miniatures and repaint them. I also put them in mini dioramas. Now I feel better, my good old minis are painted more better!
There is something really wonderful about putting a great paint job n some of those old figures. I have an old Heroquest figure that I have really been wanting to do a nice paint job on for a while.
Thank you
One thing that drives me nuts when buying 2nd hand models is poor modelling. I usually strip if i find mold lines and gaps, and i want to do some modelling before putting paint on the model.
Yep, and that's perfectly fair. It's usually the 2nd hand ebay that requires the stripping more than your own work.
Good video Vince...I have stripped a lot of plastic model cars and started over which is a little different. Not much but a little. I have always thought that to many layers starts screwing with the scale of the paint to mini...or model car, etc. So, stripping could be a big deal. It's so easy to strip paint. I have a couple minis that I use for practice...every once in a while I strip them. I think its all about looking in scale than the details. thick paint looks like hell. Anyway, have you heard about the new paint Scale 75 is coming out with? I love the idea. Are you going to do a review of it? Thanks for sharing...
The artist colors thing. Yes, I will pick them up when they are available retail. I am interested for sure, but I am not sure they are not just selling traditional HBA style paint at a miniature market mark-up. ;)
Yes it is called Scale Color Artist Smooth Acrylic paints, I believe, and will be available on the 6th. It looks fantastic!! Can't wait!! Have a great day!!
You definitely don't have to strip, but half my models aren't painted with properly watered down paint
A fair point
Stripped few minis in my life. Used oven cleaner for metal Lord of the Rings heroes, left it for too long and ended up with 90% burn victims. Then that orc weirdnob you saw, with stars in the smoke only because sandy texture of primer. Never again.
Ouch, yeah, I use Purple Power mainly, as I can leave them in there for weeks when I inevitably forget about them. ;)
When stripping or resetting to default zenithal... What do you do with the fancy base it is glued onto?
In general, I will just pop them off the base. If I can't do that, then I just deal with the whole thing all at once. :)
Would you also apply this to a competition piece? Like you are trying something and it's not working, and it looks bad at first. Would you just repaint or strip to start fresh?
Yep, would and have many times. Often when doing a competition piece, I will realize a color just doesn't work deep into the project (a whole cape is the wrong color or something). I simply paint over it and keep going.
hey so i primed another test piece and i think because of the humidity the citadel corax white primer went rough and grainy. however the MR Surfacer 1000spray can primer went on smooth. Also my vallejo spray can german grey color went grainy. Mephiston red went smooth (ALL IN SPRAY CANS) So im unfounded. Anywho i tried the scale75 original paints on the grainy surface and they covered well, and had no brush strokes, some even after the first layer. When i tried the same scale75 paint on a smooth surface like Mr. Hobby, they went to covering poorly and leaving huge brush marks again. Any knowledge you could bless me with would be awesome. there's no answer to this question anywhere on the internet. So im just curious what's going on here?
The more mate surface is easier for paint to grip to. THe primer difference is happening because each color is mixed differently and responds to humidity differently. Chances are with the scale, you'd need to thin it down and apply in very thin layers, but as I said, it's not a good base coat paint.
@@VinceVenturella the original scale75 gripped the rough texture fine but the smooth one poorly. im still waiting on the artist tubes, they rerouted them or something i dunno
Can you repaint it if it already has finishing spray
Absolutely, if it's been varnished, no reason you can't just paint the whole thing over. I've done just that many times.
Vince Venturella thx I appreciate it
This is really unrelated but what would you suggest for a starter airbrush kit (including compressor)
Master Airbrush starter set with the compressor,it's about 80 USD and will get you going for priming and base coating.
I use Purple Power. Got it at Walmart
That old Allariel model looks like Firiona Vie in Everquest lol
It really does.
water-based turps is far better than simply green
I've since moved to LA's totally awesome, I really enjoy it.
Would you use something to remove finger oil before repaint or reprime after the miniature was in the game?
In general, nah, unless you have a serious case of Cheeto fingers situation, it's generally going to be covered by primer without issue.
Thanks for this, I wish it had been last weeks I might not have stripped some models :'( . C'est la vie
I've had my prime jobs end up with a "covered in paint sand" (little grains of paint cover the mini) like effect a couple times now, using rattlecan primer. What's causing this? I'm sure it's not the primer itself as I've gotten perfectly good primes out of it, so my guess is it's something I'm doing or not doing. What causes this?
is there any way I can recover the mini without stripping after it happens?
Sure, it's generally happening because of humidity. Humidity is your worst killer for rattlecans and what you are describing is the main reason I airbrush prime, it just makes everything so much easier. That being said, there is no way I have ever seen or know of to recover from a bad prime other than stripping sadly.
The effect you're talking about, which is also known as "orange peeling", happens because particles of the paint (or in this case primer) dried in mid-spray; the little grains are small clumps of dried primer that are sticking to the miniature along with the rest of the primer. There are a few factors at work here:
1) Relative temperature and humidity conditions. Extreme heat and cold can make rattle can paint and primer do all kinds of wonky stuff and its the same with relative humidity. Generally speaking, there not a lot you can do about this if you have to prime outside (which is usually the case when it comes to rattle cans) because you have no direct control over the weather. This is where other factors come into play.
2) The distance between the object you're spraying and the rattle can also makes a difference. Generally speaking, you want to go with the minimum distance when spraying, with a light finger and making sure that you're constantly moving the can side-to-side. This can be a bit daunting at first because the natural inclination, given the nature of spray paint/rattle cans is to pull back quite far so that the paint doesn't glop on and clog things up; unfortunately, the more distance there is between rattle can and target the more chance there is for the paint to dry mid-spray. Grab some old pieces of cardboard or plastic and practice spraying closer to help you develop touch sensitivity (for that light finger) and get you used to constantly moving the can; obviously, I don't recommend using miniatures for this simply because the stress that comes from fear of messing them up will make this practice * a lot* harder.
3) Lastly, how well mixed the paint/primer is and its temperature can make a huge difference. I know its tedious to shake cans for the recommended length of time but it really does help in making sure everything is well mixed. Another thing to try and remember is not to simply shake in a single direction; shake forwards and backwards, side-to-side and even just swirl the bottom of the can around for a few seconds to make sure that agitator inside is really scraping away at any paint that's settled. Finally, you can fill up a bowl or some other container with mildly hot water (usually the temperature you'd wash dishes or your hands is a good mark to shoot for) and submerge the rattle can about two-thirds of the way in the water; leave it there for about 10 minutes or so, so that the paint inside has plenty of time to warm up, then start shaking to mix. The warm paint will make mixing *much* easier and therefore its more likely you'll get it mixed thoroughly. Keep the container of warm water nearby while you're priming and, if you have to pause, put it back in to warm up when you do; this will keep the paint warm and flowing well.
@@VinceVenturella yeah I'm looking next at getting an airbrush, my concern is space, but I'll be getting a bigger place in the next 6 weeks.
If you can find it, Metal models get stripped by acetone great.
Yep, acetone works wonderfully for metal. Keep it away from plastic. :)
Did you call them girls? As hermaprodites I belive you are misgendering them :P Just kidding, I too believe people strip paint too easily, though at times the thick coats obscure the detail. In that case there is no way around stripping the paint. Nicely summed up, Vince.
Yep, it's when you get the detail obscuring it's time to go. If it's simply the wrong color, then just keep painting.
My gloopy battle for skull pass botch jobs from my childhood i don't think apply to repainting unfortunately 😂
Yes, sadly, many of those things from youth do have no other option beyond stripping. :)
You should really put that ogre on a t-shirt. That's where the money is.
He is basically the mascot of the channel.