How To Resurface Cylinder Head at home DIY
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2020
- In this video Kalash Garage shows 8 simple steps how to resurface the cylinder head at home.The repair time is between 4 to 6 hours and just some simple tools are needed. Also at the beginning of the video is shown how to identify signs of failure of the cylinder head gasket .
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Your method is the same as mine, thats how my dad showed me how 40 years ago ! I have never had a head gasket or head coolant leak. Thank you for posting this how-to video its spot on.
Honestly this video is more straight to the point, there is better methods with using the glass but some concept. Getting a bigger sheet of glass and laying it down flat with the sandpaper glued or taped down then slide the cylinder head across the glass with the sandpaper. Great video thanks
Right, you've convinced me, I'm going to give this a go!
I like the marking pen idea.💡
i couldnt watch bc I was jamming around my garage with this music lol
Great work, practical and simple. Also, head resurfacing (here in Serbia) costs about 10-20 euros. And they also can check valves and springs if you want.
Very informative and diy certified. Thanks
Thank you
Thank you for your video.
normally i simply use a straightedge and a feeler gauge. anything over .004'' and it gets resurfaced, but lots of times not required and saves alot of time!
Muito bom parabéns pelo trabalho 👍
Thank you dear friend!
Thanks for the video. I might have to do something similar to my engine project
belive me it's pretty easy to do this , it takes just some 2 - 3 hours and some phisical exercisze :P . Does it worth to pay at least 100 Euro for this and wait for about 1 week ?
I guess I'm quite off topic but does anybody know a good website to watch new movies online ?
Thanks so much!
You are welcome and thank you for the feedback 😁
perfect 👌👌👌👌👌
I was thinking that if you can 1) get a large piece of hardwood run through a planar and then 2) mount glass to the wood then 3) then fix sandpaper to the glass then 4) put the head down on the sandpaper and push the head to cut material. That way you should have very little flex in your "milling tool" whereas pushing on the tool will cause it to flex.
l-ai facut geam 😉
Ne descurcam si noi cum putem :P
Salut!
Imi poti spune, te rog, unde pot gasi cotele de strangere a chiulasei si a arborelui pentru o skoda s100?
Multumesc!
I’ve fixed my Sentra spec v twice doing this. Saving thousands of dollars. It’s a 2002 I bought new after I graduated hs. So it has sentimental value and I turbocharged it. That qr25 is notorious for blowing headgaskets
Yes this method save money and time. To be honest I seen this first time on CZcams about 7 years ago and I decided to share also this method because it really works . The technique maybe is slightly different but very similar with the other ones. Thank you for the feedback
Saved thousands? Average shop pricing is $100 a head to resurface and wash.
Se poate aplica acelasi procedeu manual si la motoare dupa anul 2000?
I'd say make sure to apply pressure to the middle of the glass and not on the edges, you can see even the slight pressure difference kinda rounded off the edges of the machined surface, other then that, great diy👌
Yes , You are right ,that is the correct way to resurface .But I can tell you that I resurfaced 4 cylinder heads in this way and all of them work just perfect. One of them has about 30000 km and another has 18000 km . It's the poor man resurfacing method ( popular called ) , very cheap but needs some muscle and about 3 - 4 hours of labor :)
@@KalashGarage I'm not doubting the technique, ive done it too, just trying to add to the technique, take from it what you will. If nothing, thats fine too
Yes , you are right pressure shuould be apply on the center of the glass .
Maybe a square piece of ply wood on top of the glass to stop any flex
I can see this working perfectly fine for an overhead cam engine design that uses bucket lifters or has adjustable valve lash (think Toyota and Honda). There are no pushrods to consider. The miniscule amount of material removed from the head would in theory loosen the timing belt tension, all other things being equal, but the belt tensioner would make up for that difference.
In fact an the engines on which I applied this method are old Skoda engines designed in the the 50’s. They have the camshaft inside the block and push rods. Also this type of engine does not have a timing belt tensioner 😂 European engines , especially east european designed engines where far behind in terms of technology from the American ones or German as an example. But it turn out that this type of engines where very reliable, especially in rallying in the lower class cc.
Even a machine shop would do this.
@@KalashGarage And much better than the shit they build today
@@KalashGarage Reliable and simple, all people who owned that car had fixed it by themselves. No need for a lot of special tools.
Superb rezultatul, ma bucur ca împărtășești metode ce par din bătrâni, care de altfel s-ar pierde. Bănuiesc că metoda asta se aplica doar la chiulase din aluminiu, exista variante și pt cele din fontă?
Spor!
Un video mai vechi cu o chiuloasa de fonta czcams.com/video/gpsoCarQgjs/video.html
So what grit gets the head surface to 45 -50-55 or 60 RMS surface smoothness specification? How big can you get a wet stone?
Nice
Thanks
Excellent tutorial. Does this also work for cast iron head?
Yes it works and the result is more impressive . This is a old video , please don't laugh because of my english :P
I've used the same method for many years but I use a cast iron surface plate; heavier and not flexible like glass (if quite thin). Being heavier it doesn't take as long to get good results.
you are right with just a piece of glass it takes some time and muscle , I will take notice of your advice and search for a heavier plate .
@@KalashGarage you should be able to find a machine shop that will mill you a perfect 16" x 16" 3/8 or 1/2 mild gauge block or lapping block. If you treat that thing right it can do all sorts of calibration work for you...no matter where you put it, as long you level all four corners, it is a dead flat surface for measuring, honing, clamping, and gluing. Leave the sand paper on but lay the block on the bench paper up, now you can sharpen your knives, gouges, cold chisels, mower blades and axes without buying or wasting expensive file, wood chisel, and plane sharpening gear.
Good job! What is the thickness of the glass ? where can get that glass?
just normal glass 6 mm thick , glass by definition is perfect flat when is made
I like the idea but a thin plane of glass easily bends conforms to pressure. You can see the initial sanding leaves two channels on the outer edge of the head. Pushing down on the glass plane on the outer edged will cause the glass to curve resulting in two channels on either side of the head. I would use a flat piece of steel that you have ensured to be perfectly flat instead.
Would this be the same processes for if surfacing the block?
Hello , yes , I use the same procedure to resurface the engine block as well.
so after all done do you just use compress air to clean the passages or can you flush with water??
I recommend to clean it with air and maybe with gasoline or something based on alcohol.I don't like to use water for cleaning metal parts :)
@3:50 was that deep scratches in the head? And is it important to level the head when doing this? I am intrigued by the process and currently needing it done
Hello friend , those scratches were only on the surface and very thin.I can tell you that I have done this 4 times on 4 different RWD Skoda engines that have the compression ratio between 8.5 and 9.7. Each time I did not have any problems with the cylinder heads and so on.I think i have on my channel multiple videos regarding this in which I show this process on different cylinder heads.this is no something invented by me and is a process well known, mostly know after the name “poor’s man cylinder head resurfacing.For high performance cars with higher compression ratio I don’t recommend this process!
Most likely form the flame ring of the head gasket digging into the aluminium when the head is torqued down
What about the block? Did you resurface that as well? Or just the head and put it back together?
Hello , In this particular case I just resurface the cylinder head. I have on my channel another video in which I show a full restoration of an engine , in that case I have resurface also the block with the same method. Depends if you need to do this step as well or not , in general this step is not needed . And in this particular video the gasket faild after about 7 years after the rebuild . So after some measurements I agreed that resurfacing of the engine block is not needed.
Nah. You gotta use a cinder block. Just knock off the larger pieces of gravel and you're good to go. I use some crisco every once in a while. Head gasket seals no problem.
Just like yours will.
it is best to remove the valves...you are never getting those shavings out of the grease without disassembling and reassembling them anyway
One question, don't you need to measure the valve recession after resurfacing? For my car , the maximum I can remove from surface is 0.007".
I think it depends alot on the type of the car , most probably if the car is a high performance car then you will need to do this for sure . If is a normal or street car then the tollarances are much bigger and most probably this is not needed.
Valve resession and protrusion is more of a diesel spec. In fact, after 20 years machining engine I yet to come accross a gasser with a valve rec/prot spec.
does it matter if those dark marks or indentations in the cylinder do not erase completely?
Hello , as long as does marks are not in the extremities and are unde a flat area that is covered by the head gasket is no problem. You can find attached another video with a damaged cylinder head , I have resurfaced the head in the same way and now I have about 18000 km with that engine and is still going strong. czcams.com/video/-xZleQ2l6RU/video.html
That would likely be contamination of actual metal. That wouldn’t come out so easily.
Dude that looks good as new.
How many miles does that car have?
Thank you , about 250000 km
Dacia ce mai face?
Sta in carantina la 70 km de Sibiu , asteapta cel mai probabil sa treaca perioada asta mai ciudata.
It is better to use a figure eight motion with the glass than straight lines
Where do you get those big sheets of sandpaper
Normally at any paint shop that sell accessories.
If it’s more than 5 thousands is not worth it, I always have get great lucks with less than 4 thousands, and I find 1000 grit sand paper gives more room for error when sanding with hand, and it takes less than 20 minutes to bring it to less than 2 thousands. I tried to fix a head with 10 thousands warpage, spent 12 hours (I totally forgot about time when I was into it), arms hurt for two days, and had worse cylinder pressure, lol. At least I learnt my lesson, leave the job to the machine shop is a great idea sometimes.
Did you mean "thousandTHS" (of an inch) instead of "thousands"? And what about 4 exactly?
@@HelloKittyFanMan. yes i meant 5 thousandths, if it’s less than 4 thousandths sanding it down for 10 minutes usually brings it to the correct spec.
Surely you should have your hands in the middle of the glass ? Glass bends, and you'll create a bow in the head.. as you seen when you started it took it of the edges first !
Yes and No , You are right but in the same time I applied only light pressure on the glass. It's not the first time I do something like this , I think is the 6 or 7 time :) and each time had worked perfect . It's normal to see first the edges because those areas are getting warped after tighten the cylinder head.
The reason the perimeter were the first shown signs of the resurfacing is because they are higher in terms of height than the area (everything inside the perimeter). Even though it's such a microscopic difference it shows the head isn't exactly flat or close to flat as it is needing to be idea for this project. This is the whole reason for the resurfacing process and the end result being sought after by the video creator along with others that followed this technique. He is successful in the end result of resurfacing the head for assembling the gasket replacement. Although myself personally would have took the surface down further than he did because you can see the impression marks left from the old gasket. That's the blackish color that is still showing on the head. But he is close enough to be able to satisfy the needs of the connection between block, gasket and head.
The reason that surface is different is because when installing the head to the block its torqued from the center out and there is some slight warpage from that being torqued down so tight mixed with the heat from the engine when it's being ran.
What kind of glass is that
normal glass , 6 mm thick
How much in mm does the process remove?
Overall I mean. Do I need to use a smaller lifters now?
Hello friend , if you mean the copper rings from the liners , no the resurfacing of the cylinder head does not affect the setup for the liner protrusion .If you are worry about the valves to hit the pistons , this type of resurfacing is much less aggressive than the ones from a workshop . Generally this method grinds a maximum of 1 mm . With this method you can stop at any time when you see that the cylinder head is flat , when you are doing this on a machine from a workshop you need to set the machine in advance for 1mm or 2mm as a example.
My New lifters are almost 1mm smaller than stock. (Thick as a dime) That's why I asked. Thank you very much. Roller rockers can add lift.
Song?
The song is from Aria Urbana track 7 from the album . Aria Urbana is a Romanian Techno - DNB band from the 90's.
Thanks for the video will sav my $ for now en do the same
That's why I posted the video in order to help to save money and time :) . It was very useful for me so I decided to share the method I use. It takes about 2 - 3 hours such a procedure but in the same time you will work the hand muscle , so also free work out :P
@@KalashGarage thanks have managed to skim en runs super new, no misfire, half kick, no spiting coolant at start.
I think You can use a spray call “GUIDE COAT “ instead of a marker
yes , but this way is cheaper :P most of the times I don't have all the tools around me so I improvise in many occasions.
@@KalashGarage but rhank you for the idea, i just did the same on my Mercedes
What is in the coolant to eat that thing up so badly??
Antifreez that was not change for a very long time and rust from the cooling pipes that accumulated in the last 40 years .
@@KalashGarage Ah! That’ll do it I reckon!!
Do not use a wire brush to clean the cylinder head, it's eating up the surface.
I’m using like I mentioned in the video a soft wire brush with copper wires. It’s a softer material then aluminum.
Why not wood instead of glass?
Because glass is always perfectly flat , a thicker glass is better because chances of warping under pressure is less.
Running away from machines and people with light eyes back into the wild dropping it all just because too much work said I'm out hunting my thing now and fishing living amongst the Tarzan's music.
That's good but its make headlock out of the range in case of nissan altima 2006 it shouldn't be resurfaced more than 0.1 mm not 1mm or 2mm
Which then you'll get higher compression in the cylinders, vibration in engine, overheating on uphill
For me if it need more than 0.04 inch then ill buy a used block from junkyard or used engine
Hello Sir , well I can tell you that I have tested this method only on all kinds of RWD Skoda engines .As an example the Skoda 120 L engine has a compression ratio of 8.5 where the Skoda 136B engine has 9.7 . In both cases I did no encounter any problems , in fact I still drive those cars . As a personal example one engine has 18000 km from the last rebuild and this was done in 2018 .But like I said this are not performance cars , and the tolerances are bigger than a performance car .It's very possible to encounter this type of problems on a more modern car.Keep in mind this is just a hobby for me and my cars are from the 80's . Here is one video with the car that has 18000 after the rebuild using that method . czcams.com/video/Os05LLZV2ME/video.html
@@KalashGarage ok so this is not aluminum head and not 2007 plus models
Yes and no , The 120 L engine has a iron head with compression ratio 8.5 and the 136 B engine has aluminium head with 9.7 compression ratio . The 120 engine was developed in 1964 and was in production until 1989 and the 136 engine was developed in 1987 and was in production until 2004 . The last car that used the 781.136 engine was Skoda Fabia 1.4 MPI . In both cases are low cc engines 1.2 Liters respective 1.4 liters
@@KalashGarage ok thanks man
How about pay $40 to get the cylinder head resurfaced professionally?
I don't have the neccesary time to wait 2 weeks for a workshoop to resurface my cylinderhead. Also , I don't know in which town or which country are you located , but in my hometown to resurface the cylinderhead cost at least 100 $ .
n1
Nice way to clean and check a cylinder head, but this is not machining or resurfacing. BTW the head shown in your intro was irrepairable and is not the one you show being cleaned, that one would not benefit from this treatment.
In the video was the original head cylinder, it was removed at 215000 km and it was put back . Now the engine has 235000 km since the repair . You should whatch my other videos regarding this . I think I have 3 with different cylinder heads and some of them where in much worse shape than this one .
Sorry for the sound quality, was one of my first videos czcams.com/video/-xZleQ2l6RU/video.htmlsi=v4pu0nAzXj6U1Vae
Hope step 8 is dropping it off at a competent machinist to actually get them flat and straight.🤣
😂
Most engines have a tolerance. Many casual performance vehicles can have gasket sealer along with headgaskets.
A competent machinist is just gonna have more fancy tools and charge an even higher price.
I've done similar with several heads, they all turn out fine as long as your within tolerances.
Don't do that shit my god are you serious
Oh so very wrong, using a piece of glass this way is asking for future problems, glass bends, so any pressure while holding and using it like this will be heavy on the sides and light in the middle.
Thus, making the cylinder head convex.