Climbing Styles: The Architect
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- Massive shoutout to EpicTV because I basically exclusively used their footage for this video (please don't copyright strike me). Jonathan Siegrist has a really cool climbing style; we look at it in more detail in this video.
Music via Prod. Riddiman x oldboyy / paranoia-alt-rocktrap-...
FOOTAGE CREDITS:
Jakob Schubert - Perfecto Mundo 9b+ ( • Jakob Schubert - Perfe... )
-0:00-0:03
Hachioji Men Combined Finals ( • IFSC Climbing World Ch... )
-0:03-0:05, 5:50-6:26, 6:44-6:56,
Tomoa Narasaki - Unleashed ( • Tomoa Narasaki - Unlea... )
-0:05-0:06
Alex Megos Finds the no-hands rest on route ( • Video )
-0:06-0:14, 1:47-1:55
Classic 9a+ Biographie Pushes Seb To His Limits ( • Classic 9a+ Biographie... )
Chris Sharma: First Round First Minute ( • Chris Sharma - First R... )
-0:14-0:23
Jonathan Siegrist Climbs The Old School Crimpfest 'Insurrection' (8c/5.14b) | Nomad, Ep. 4 ( • Jonathan Siegrist Clim... )
-0:23-0:37, 10:20-10:25
The Story Behind Jonathan Siegrist's Send Of Biographie/Realization (9a+/5.15a) | Nomad, Ep. 1 ( • The Story Behind Jonat... )
-0:45-0:51
Jonathan Siegrist | Nu World ( • Jonathan Siegrist | Nu... )
-0:52-1:04
Algorithm - Jonathan Siegrist ( • Algorithm - Jonathan S... )
-1:04-1:18, 3:25-4:15, 7:38-8:00, 9:30-9:57
Jonathan Siegrist Goes Full Project Mode On 'La Rambla' (9a+/5.15a) | Nomad, Ep. 5 ( • Jonathan Siegrist Goes... )
-1:18-1:25
INTERVIEW WITH JONATHAN SIEGRIST - SPICY DUMPLINGS 9A ( • Jonathan Siegrist and ... )
-1:25-1:47, 2:50-2:55, 4:15-4:37, 6:57-7:11, 10:15-10:20
Hachioji Womens Combined Finals ( • IFSC Climbing World Ch... )
-1:55-2:00,
Hachio Mens Bouldering finals ( • IFSC Climbing World Ch... )
-2:00-2:23, 8:30-8:46
Briancon 2020 Lead Finals ( • IFSC World Cup Brianço... )
-2:23-2:30, 5:33-5:50
Rotpunkt | Alex Megos and the Advent, the Agony and the Art of the Redpoint ( • Rotpunkt | Alex Megos ... )
2:30 2:37
Jonathan Siegrist | Hundred Proof ( • Jonathan Siegrist | Hu... )
-2:55-3:25, 4:38-4:50, 8:00-8:30, 9:37-10:15
IFSC Climbing World Cup Chamonix 2019 - Lead Finals ( • IFSC World Cup Chamoni... )
-4:50-5:07, 5:27-5:32
(Eng. Subtitles) Pachamama (9a+) step-by-step with Cédric Lachat | Relais Vertical #111 ( • Pachamama (9a+) pas à ... )
-5:07-5:26
Inzai 2019 Lead Finals ( • IFSC World Cup Inzai 2... )
-6:26-6:43
Jonathan Siegrist | God's Crag ( • Jonathan Siegrist | Go... )
-7:12-7:37, 9:00-9:30, 10:50-end
Hachioji 2019 Lead Finals ( • IFSC Climbing World Ch... )
-8:47-9:00
Long live the sloth style!! Thanks for the video, seriously it’s an honor! Cheers
Uhhhhhh so this is the coolest thing that's ever happen to me.
The honour's all mine, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I was this many days old when I learned that world class climbers also watch CZcams...
@@SpartaSpartan117 gotta kill time on rest days somehow...
Climbing sloth style is very cerebral. You have to really have your mind in your body the whole time feeling each hold, each position, each shift, and choreographing it all together so it looks effortless as smooth. I think this is the epitome of “style”.🙏💪
Loved watching this and always love watching you climb. One of my favs!
Jonathan's hips definitely don't lie...🔥 Excellent video Ascentionsim (if that really is your name 😈 ) cause you asked so nicely we won't copyright you (also your voice is well dreamy! 😍) Keep up the great work! 💪
😍Thank you for the footage (and for being the first commentor to not tell me that my voice sounds like a prepubescent teen)
Agreed, beautiful voice! For your next video I’d love to hear you do an acoustic cover of Ondra on Silence 🤫
"He's a late bloomer, having started climbing at 19 y.o."
*Cries in having started at 29 y.o.* :'(
Me at 34
30 here man : / just keep truckin. At least we found climbing in our lives at all!
Stronger everyday!
Started at 27 😂
i'm starting at 24 😂
I started at 26, but didn't start training seriously until 29. Now at 65 I am working successfully on my first 14a and still onsight 5.12. Never give up.
hearing he started climbing with 19 gave me hope!
The hand match at 6:50 was absurd.
I think Jonathan's strenght would be his balance and feet accuracy, he's an incredible slab climber and that kind of routes usually require that kind of slow tempo... I think readjusting holds in a slab is something "common" (as those microcrimps are hard to hit precisely and you have to hold them perfectly to pull your body up) but readjusting on big jugs as in 100 Proof means lack of precission/confidence/power... in fact, in La Sportiva's video "Confort Zone" Jonathan himself says big overhangs with good holds are his weakness... On the other side, you can't compare slabby outdoors redpoints with competition style onsights, the way of climbing has to be different no matter what you prefer...
Anyway, nice video, it's always a pleasure to see Jonathan in action :)
That's a great point! I think you're right; balance and precision are two of his really big strengths, and his technique is amazing to watch. I'm glad you enjoyed the video :)
God what a channel! It’s like everything I want you put an episode out on.. thank you for unrivalled content
As a longtime viewer of this channel, so stoked to see the man himself and EpicTV in the comments! Keep up the amazing work, I love your videos (keeping me sane in a currently fully locked-down winter).
Thanks man, that means a lot!!
Thank you for featuring someone who isn't doing god-like in flashing neon. Siegrist was a joy to watch made even better with this analysis. I kept thinking of water and flow. Not the Colorado River for sure. But one of those rivers with deceptive calm, white water here and there, but mostly it's a killer flow that grinds down mountains. Just subscribed.
That's a great analogy! He is super smooth when he climbs and it's great to watch
Great video. J-Star's technique is on such a high level, it's kind of nuts.
He inspired me. I try my best. First of all my "technical best". Pure brilliant climber
Definitely Caldwell-esque. Probably why he is one of my favorite sport climbers.
I just started climbing and I'll graduate next year, so I probably won't have as much time on my hands. I'm 15, but seeing the kids at the climbing walls still makes me feel old...
Him starting at 19 does give me hope, but just having fun and trying your best is enough (especially bc I haven't climbed in almost 4 months due to Covid), it helps to always remember that.
amazing as always, i know im super late to the party but thanks a ton for these videos
I love these videos! keep it up man!
Always so nice to listen to your analysis ! great job !
Love these videos! Such sound analysis and cool commentary!
Nice one, can you do Chris Sharma?
For sure! Sharma's one of my favourite climbers to watch and I'd love to break his style down
@@ascentionism there’s an interesting video of him on El Bon Combat filmed from below and it’s cool to see how much he generates from his lower body by getting his feet super high and exploding
@@ascentionism yesss Sharma is a blast to watch climb
Ah, what a good video... and I am a proud member of a Chris Sharma gym - he's a true architect of many things!
Amazing to have many ways to be awesome
awesome ! now we need a Dave G. episode !
I was going to say the same, it is always a joy to watch The Wizard in action!
Great analysis 👌 waiting for more
The only thing that bothered me was you using Tomoa as the "reference" for speedy lead climbers... IMHO *the* example for that style is Sean McCole, whos whole lead climbing career is built on sprinting lead routes.
great video nonetheless, great to find another climbing style breakdowns like @AlbertOK videos
Another great climbing analysis!
Thanks! I'm glad you think so :)
Love her climbing style, she's poetry on the wall! 🙌
Hi! Really cool to see people investing time into climbing content! Keep up the good work! As many stuff you said about climbing technique are true in general, I think you tried to apply them in the wrong examples many times. Also, the video doesn't have any structure, instead of repeating the footage, you could add some text, breaks, chapters, themes, topics (that could be used in every video in order to be able to compare between climbers). I rather see a shorter video than seeing a good footage in loops 3-4 times. For now, in my opinion, and without disrespect, I feel like I've heard a beginner climber talk about and repeating stuff he doesn't truly understand for 10+ minutes. I'm sure pro climbers, except for those who are already asked a lot, would be very pleased to answer to your questions in order to create their profile on your channel. You would probably have mentioned more than once the importance that Jonathan Siegrist puts into finger strength if you had asked him. As I said, keep up the good work, there's a lot of room for you on CZcams! Peace
Climbing efficiently is just like the rest of climbing, there are no hard rules. Sometimes it requires smooth technique with lots of feet and sometimes you cut feet and quickly blast through a couple campus moves.
Dave graham please... that would be the most interesting breakdown
Dude... does he really have a decked-out minivan? Cause that looked a lot like a tacoma pickup...
Ted Mosby, the architect?
Great video.
It is weird how gravity doesn't affect them
I bet J-Star has exception core endurance and stability because he climbs very statically.
THANKS!!
Hahahaha I'm glad you liked it!!! Credit to you for inspiring this video in the first place
@@ascentionism I've waited so much for this and u did a great job as always. You're the man
@@elfriederich Thanks so much!! I'm glad you thought it was good
Dude do hidetaka suzuki!
great video but i gotta disagree. Jonathan siegrist is an absolute beast but when he readjusts his hands and feet i believe that this is not a strength of patience but actually one of his biggest weaknesses. Readjusting hands is almost always a sign of bad technique, and more so that he just doesn’t have the beta memorized and has to waste energy getting the hold right. for example Adam ondra spends alot of time memorizing intensely on the floor so that he doesn’t need to readjust and can climb quickly. love the video analysis is one of the most interesting parts of climbing, and jonathan is a big inspiration. looking forward to the next video : )
Those hand readjustments are all on limestone routes. There are a lot of different kinds of limestone, but pockety limestone, and super textured limestone both require a lot of readjustments to get the holds perfectly, as compared to a place like Ceuse where the holds are more like uniform scoops, or Oliana to a lesser degree.
Speaking from personal experience, the difference between the number of readjustments needed on that type of limestone, vs on sandstone or granite is night and day. It's not a weakness, it's adapting to the demands of the route.
Great point! You're totally right that moving slowly does burn more energy than necessary. I actually have an entire video on Ondra for that exact reason. What's insane about him is that he moves quickly AND efficiently - he gets the best parts of both Siegrist's method (getting a hand in the right place) and the 'speedrun' method of not spending lots of time on each hold.
You're right - doing what Ondra does is definitely preferable to what Siegrist does. There's only one Adam Ondra, though, so I didn't want to hold everyone to the standard of the (maybe) GOAT.
Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
@@ascentionism maybe that's the point: Jonathan is not as efficient as Ondra, but is pretty efficient; not as delicate/balancy as Tommy Caldwell, but really delicate and balancy; not as powerful as Megos or Sharma, but powerful when it's required... He's the perfect mix, the all terrain machine
Even if you memorise the route perfectly doesn't mean you're going to hit each hold perfectly, hence why readjusting. I see your point though
One thing I've always wondered about Siegrist, he's obviously a world-class climber but you never really hear about him onsighting anything - whereas all the other guys/gals who've climbed 15b and up onsight 13d on the regular, many of them have onsighted 14b and a few have onsighted 14d. It seems like his onsight level is pretty far below that. Why is that?
another one
Not many people can grip bad holds like J star
comparing a rock climber with competition climbers (who have a limited amount of time to climb a route) does not make much sense to me
Hey, thanks for the comment! I used indoor videos for a couple of reasons:
1. It's so much easier to find. There are very limited videos of Tomoa or Janja climbing outdoors, and I've been banned from using any footage of Adam.
2. Some indoor climbers still climb slowly. If you watch a video of Kim Jain competition climbing, she goes at a very similar pace to Jonathan, so I don't think it's necessarily true to say that all indoor climbers go slowly.
The point I was trying to illustrate was more about the movement styles - sacrificing the 'right' move for speed, which is what a lot of climbers do. Totally fair of you to think that the comparison doesn't work because they're indoor videos, I just wanted to highlight why I chose them!
@@ascentionism Why have you been banned from using any of Adams footage?
@@MrPeter1337 Just copyright issues! They put a lot of time/effort/money into filming Adam and they don't want to share their footage in exchange for nothing
@@ascentionism which on one hand you have to understand and on the other 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
@@alcupone6462 The emojis sum up my reaction perfectly tbh
Nice analysis, shame that the footage is the same over and over again..
Megos doesn’t want to touch Silence because it’s too hard. :)
You take that back
He said its above his limit since it's not his style, did you watch the video?
@@Asdfghjkl-ls1or he's obviously joking
@@mrdrprofsteve506 i think he's trolling
Public enemy #1 on the German climbing forums
I enjoy your videos and are really interesting... But..
1. You talk too fast for non-native English speakers like me.
2. this music loop.. it's kind of annoying and it's too loud. get creative or just take it all out.
Best, steff
*eFn' Clickbait* ,
n,' made me look' ' not listen' ' Teasing the O-zone{/Bro(?)zone} with that thumbnail nail pick; then not another shot? *weak sauce!*
i, too, was stoked for some bro-zone footy. i think he got the first repeat of that and i still haven’t seen anything. maybe it’s coming? hopefully? still a great video!