This is really well done! I love you no nonsense delivery of information, short and packed full of technique and info. Would love to see more content like this!
For those who don't know how to do Sanding: 1. Get a neutral-coarse grit (the number on the sheet, about 120-180 should work) sandpaper. 2. Rub the object with the sandpaper. Make sure it is fully sanded before moving on. 3. Repeat Step 2 with neutral-fine grit (220-280) and fine grit (300-320) in order said. Note: if the object is Wood: Go with the grain lines. Better Look.
Finally, I came across a really high-quality video that shows me how to properly do postprocessing on printed parts. Thank you very much for your video.
I've been facing this problem for a long time, to the point I start to think to buy the resin 3D print. THANK YOU man, this video really help me a lot! Subscribed
This is the best tutorial I've found on the subject. You don't waste our time and you keep your information concise and pleasant to listen to. On behalf of the 3D community, I thank you.
Hi Jure, I know it's been 3 years but I just keep coming back to this video when talking about 3D printed parts and finishing. I've used this technique with success. I share your interests in 3D printing, drones and RC. Most of all I have to say this is a very well executed video tutorial! Thanks
Finally an instructive video without any useless time consuming bla bla. I was kept entertained and my attention didn't waver. I'm surprised you have this little amount of subscribers. Regardless, you should check DIY PERKS he has come up with a different technique to smoothen a 3d print.
Because nobody has been showing this, I guess I thought it could not be done successfully on 3D prints. I have done all the things you showed on other materials in the past, and as I am about to buy my first 3D printer, it's great to know the results you got are possible. Great video, and tutorial... thanks very much.
Very nice and detailed overview. For my 3D parts I start with 120 grit dry sand paper to smooth edges and print lines first then use 220 grit wet/dry sand paper with water till part is almost perfect. I like using automotive sandable primer. Usually black or dark grey. I follow primer with wet sanding using at least 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. If you use metallic paints be sure that you prime entire part once more before applying finish paint. That way part is uniform in color and tone.
Came to youtube to find a good way to sand down a PLA Mandalorian helmet I'm looking at buying because I've never worked with 3D printed things before and I wanted to make sure I knew what I was getting myself into before I bought it and...I wasn't disappointed! Very helpful!
I've watched a handful of these finishing videos now and this is the first one that actually had a decent result, and it's basically the same technique that's been used in woodworking forever. I guess it's true what they say. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
This is the best finish I've seen on a 3D part. Been a while since I got back into printing but its impressive that you can get such a shiny finish on something thats meant for practical use. I have seen some awful finishes on things that are touted at "commercial grade" I will definitely pick up some of that spray filler when I find something I want to finish well
This is awesome information! I think those of us who make things with 3D are too fixed on things like acetone smoothing, and we forget that things like sandpaper and filler (which have been around for many decades) still work if we are willing to put the effort into our work. Certainly there are many 3D printed parts that have too many nooks and crannies to fill and sand in this manner, but the simple technique that you demonstrate in this video would work for a lot of parts.
Exactly! This method works on wood, metal and other materials! In my experiment I also found out that I can get more strength (less delamination) when threated with this method!
i find that acetone smoothing strengthens my prints. what i usually do is sand first to fill most gaps with dust then acetone smooth it, the dust in the gaps melts and helps fill them
Great idea, your parts look awesome. Have you ever tried the Acetone vapor method? You simply hang your part inside a large jar by a string to the lid, drop a paper towel soaked in Acetone into the jar, put on the lid with your part hanging from it so that it does not touch the paper towel. You only want the vapor to melt the outer surface of your printed part. It should take only 20 to 30 min in the vapor bath and your part should come out very smooth and shiny. don't leave it too long in the vapor bath or it will melt completely or deform.
Yeah! But it only works for ABS and its kind of limited method. This one works for all hard materials and you can change color, you can also apply hydrodipping etc. :)
he gives good advice and a clear procedure while showing that extra steps like using wood filler are not necessary. Nothing needs to be groundbreaking in order to be a good video
Kristian Johansson I don't believe that trying to apply a clear coat to something sanded with 4000 grit paper would work well. If anything, he should have used flat paint and then clearcoated it, then sand the clearcoat with up to 4000 grit if necessary then polish. Of course, it doesn't need to be sanded with 4000 grit unless it has orange peel or other blemishes.
Different factors dictate what you need. I personally have never found a need to go above 1200. Some people will swear at 2000 or 800. Also what kind of clearcoat you choose matters. Some are more durable then others at certain conditions. In the end experiment to see what works for you.
The best paint I have ever used in spray cans I use for my scale model cars and won best in show alot it's the testors extreme laqure the base coat is so glossy like a mirror but once you hit it with the clear in same brand and line of paint it will be glass and no need to sand or polish the clear coat to make it really shiny like a mirror the trick is to lay the base coat and clear coats on medium wet not to light just to the point before it starts to run and that's how I do every model car and 3d printed items and it looks amazing
Best tutorial about painting ever. Beautiful job. Thank you very much. You did great and i have learned alot by what you inspired me to investigate. Thanks for mentioning all details like adding extra resistance to structure with the painting.
It really doesn't matter! You start with 120, then around 250,then 400 and finish with 800,but you could also skip some between or end with 600 up to 1200. Paint fills last small dents and grabs nicely.
Very nice. I can't begin to imagine though, even allowing the thought into my head that my time should ever be spent sanding and finnishing some plastic off my 3d printer.
Awesome job with this video! Clear and direct to the point, you just got a new subscriber just because of this video. I have been looking to make my prints look more professional and this was by far the best video i have ever viewed
Excellent video. Short and to the point. Just maybe one suggestion would be to try the same thing with a hobby spray gun. Not only does that involve smaller quantities of paint, but it also avoids the issue that, if you use the normal paint can only rarely, by the next time you use it the nozzle may be clogged up.
Thanks for this, very helpful tutorial! Just bought myself a CR-10 and am about to start a pretty big tech project that'll be featured on my channel. I'll definitely be using this method and giving you a shout out!
Great Video Tutorial, however, DON NOT use water when doing this with PLA. PLA soaks up water and expands! The BodyFill Primer you are using is awesome and a bit elastic and sands great, but other primers don't expand and will crack like crazy if the PLA absorbs any water/moisture while it's drying.. If you use water any part of the PLA print that isn't fully covered by the primer when you are doing the final sanding will expand and then later after you apply the last coat it can shrink(when it dies out again) back down in those areas and cause dips in the finish.
Really depends on the color you use. Some can be sprayed thicker and they wont drip, some needs a bit of time between the coats. I used quite warm spray can and I also cut video a bit. When it starts dripping it's too late!
generally the "right" way to do it is to lay down your first coats super dusty and light, this makes a sticky base of color for later coats. after that gets to somewhere between tacky and dry you start with the heavy coats, you gotta let them Dry almost completely before the next coat with some paints or else they e̶g̶g̶ ̶s̶h̶e̶l̶l̶ orange peel texture from the gasses leaving the paint underneath. anyway your last coat should be actually really wet. not so much that it drips, but certainly heavier than you'd think: this is how you get that smooth shiny look. edit: eggshell is a desirable finish haha I meant orange peel
That was the best youtube tutorial I've seen (I usually hate those):
- < 5m
- Clear
- Complete
Awesome!
haha, thanks! :)
@@JKTechSi its very very true. keep it up mate.
True hahahah
I can't agree more
I completely agree! Fantastic video and exactly what I need to know for my printing. Thanks Mate!
This is really well done! I love you no nonsense delivery of information, short and packed full of technique and info. Would love to see more content like this!
Great. Beautiful. Marvelous.
Agreed!!
I have a trick for your mother’s friend
For those who don't know how to do Sanding:
1. Get a neutral-coarse grit (the number on the sheet, about 120-180 should work) sandpaper.
2. Rub the object with the sandpaper. Make sure it is fully sanded before moving on.
3. Repeat Step 2 with neutral-fine grit (220-280) and fine grit (300-320) in order said.
Note: if the object is Wood: Go with the grain lines. Better Look.
Thank you!
I recently 3D printed aluminum piece. Should I follow the same steps or do you recommend other applications?
do u sand before or after curing? complete noob lol
@@Kiyamlol After curing.
@@Shrubster thank you :) is it safe to handle the bits of resin falling all over?
Finally, I came across a really high-quality video that shows me how to properly do postprocessing on printed parts. Thank you very much for your video.
same here
Superb Video ever made on this topic. Crystal Clear. No non-sense. You have just KISS (Keep it Sweet and Simple) it.
I've been facing this problem for a long time, to the point I start to think to buy the resin 3D print. THANK YOU man, this video really help me a lot!
Subscribed
This is the best tutorial I've found on the subject. You don't waste our time and you keep your information concise and pleasant to listen to. On behalf of the 3D community, I thank you.
Thanks! :)
Hi Jure, I know it's been 3 years but I just keep coming back to this video when talking about 3D printed parts and finishing. I've used this technique with success. I share your interests in 3D printing, drones and RC. Most of all I have to say this is a very well executed video tutorial! Thanks
Concise and clear. I like it when informative videos get to the point right away!
The best tutorial I have ever seen. Direct to the topic.
Dude, this is amazing! 6 years later you're still helping us makers out bro, thank you so much!
Thank you for this tutorial. Finally someone that's doing it the affordable way, but still with awesome results!
Finally an instructive video without any useless time consuming bla bla. I was kept entertained and my attention didn't waver. I'm surprised you have this little amount of subscribers. Regardless, you should check DIY PERKS he has come up with a different technique to smoothen a 3d print.
That works only on ABS
Because nobody has been showing this, I guess I thought it could not be done successfully on 3D prints. I have done all the things you showed on other materials in the past, and as I am about to buy my first 3D printer, it's great to know the results you got are possible. Great video, and tutorial... thanks very much.
Very nice and detailed overview. For my 3D parts I start with 120 grit dry sand paper to smooth edges and print lines first then use 220 grit wet/dry sand paper with water till part is almost perfect. I like using automotive sandable primer. Usually black or dark grey. I follow primer with wet sanding using at least 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. If you use metallic paints be sure that you prime entire part once more before applying finish paint. That way part is uniform in color and tone.
It's great, I was expecting the regular ABS + Acetone method but it wasn't.
actually there is nothing more regular that just sanding
Bro you are very talented. This is the best tutorial i have watched about finish on 3D materials.
Great information in short amount of time!
That is how i like to watch tutorials.
This is the best guide on printed surface processing in all web!
Came to youtube to find a good way to sand down a PLA Mandalorian helmet I'm looking at buying because I've never worked with 3D printed things before and I wanted to make sure I knew what I was getting myself into before I bought it and...I wasn't disappointed! Very helpful!
Sanding after the first paint layer is a great idea actually
This is the first 3D printed finish I've seen that actually looks great!
One of the best finishes I've seen.
Absolutely love this method! Simple but requires patience that pays off
Best vid for sanding no bs, straight to the point and well informed. Thank you.
Oh man.. that is the sweetest modded prusa i have ever seen. Man it looks great and clean, very nice.
Even tho I don’t wanna comment on this video I just have to this guy explained it so good keep up the work
this is the best video i’ve watch for smoothing
Easily the best tutorial I have found on this topic. Great job, and thank you.
Thank you for sharing. I love how concise this tutorial is, no fluffing around, just useful content.
The simplest and most useful video I have seen about this. Thanks
Amazing, straight to the point. Clear illustration of techniques 10/10.
I've watched a handful of these finishing videos now and this is the first one that actually had a decent result, and it's basically the same technique that's been used in woodworking forever. I guess it's true what they say. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
This is the best finish I've seen on a 3D part. Been a while since I got back into printing but its impressive that you can get such a shiny finish on something thats meant for practical use. I have seen some awful finishes on things that are touted at "commercial grade"
I will definitely pick up some of that spray filler when I find something I want to finish well
if ur really worried about weight u can design pocketing in the part. sanding a little more only can make it so much lighter
The perfect video mate. Kudos!
This is amazing! Wow, the end result looks so professional! I can certainly use this in my rc modelling hobby.
Great tutorial, I thought I was never get this level of gloss with acrylic paint on my airbrush, but you've shown that's possible. :)
Awesome and adorable Jure
Good spraying technique.
Best post printing technics on youtube.
That is a lovely enclosure.
best video I've seen yet
Use black lacquer spray paint to mist between sanding. It will highlight the areas that need more attention.
The spray finish looks so cool
How tutorials should be done. If I ever want to do this, I'll definitely come back to your video.
Very Impressive finish.
best tutorial i've seen two thumbs up...
This is awesome information! I think those of us who make things with 3D are too fixed on things like acetone smoothing, and we forget that things like sandpaper and filler (which have been around for many decades) still work if we are willing to put the effort into our work. Certainly there are many 3D printed parts that have too many nooks and crannies to fill and sand in this manner, but the simple technique that you demonstrate in this video would work for a lot of parts.
Exactly! This method works on wood, metal and other materials! In my experiment I also found out that I can get more strength (less delamination) when threated with this method!
i find that acetone smoothing strengthens my prints. what i usually do is sand first to fill most gaps with dust then acetone smooth it, the dust in the gaps melts and helps fill them
Great idea, your parts look awesome. Have you ever tried the Acetone vapor method? You simply hang your part inside a large jar by a string to the lid, drop a paper towel soaked in Acetone into the jar, put on the lid with your part hanging from it so that it does not touch the paper towel. You only want the vapor to melt the outer surface of your printed part. It should take only 20 to 30 min in the vapor bath and your part should come out very smooth and shiny. don't leave it too long in the vapor bath or it will melt completely or deform.
Yeah! But it only works for ABS and its kind of limited method. This one works for all hard materials and you can change color, you can also apply hydrodipping etc. :)
You can use Ethyl Acetate instead of acetone to smooth out PLA parts using the vapor bath method.
@@JKTechSi do you plan on doing a tutorial on hydrodip? It'd be cool, your videos are amazing
Sand, Prime & Paint? Pure genus!
he gives good advice and a clear procedure while showing that extra steps like using wood filler are not necessary. Nothing needs to be groundbreaking in order to be a good video
The end result is pretty incredible!
Thanks! :)
Take a 3000-4000 grit sandpapper after you Done and sand it and then paint it with a clearcoat and you have a good finish thant wont scratch s easy
Kristian Johansson I don't believe that trying to apply a clear coat to something sanded with 4000 grit paper would work well. If anything, he should have used flat paint and then clearcoated it, then sand the clearcoat with up to 4000 grit if necessary then polish. Of course, it doesn't need to be sanded with 4000 grit unless it has orange peel or other blemishes.
Different factors dictate what you need. I personally have never found a need to go above 1200. Some people will swear at 2000 or 800.
Also what kind of clearcoat you choose matters. Some are more durable then others at certain conditions.
In the end experiment to see what works for you.
4000? Clearcoat won’t adhere to a basically polished surface. 1200 is as far as you need to go. Anything more is a waste of time and a worse finish
Where do you get 1,000-4,000 grit sandpaper from? I've looked everywhere.
Joey Echols paint supply stores
The best paint I have ever used in spray cans I use for my scale model cars and won best in show alot it's the testors extreme laqure the base coat is so glossy like a mirror but once you hit it with the clear in same brand and line of paint it will be glass and no need to sand or polish the clear coat to make it really shiny like a mirror the trick is to lay the base coat and clear coats on medium wet not to light just to the point before it starts to run and that's how I do every model car and 3d printed items and it looks amazing
Best tutorial about painting ever. Beautiful job. Thank you very much. You did great and i have learned alot by what you inspired me to investigate. Thanks for mentioning all details like adding extra resistance to structure with the painting.
I dont even own a 3d printer but i found your video very educational. Thanks!
Excellent finish
Excellent video and proof that there is a right way and a wrong way.
Just tip you should inform what grade sand paper you used every stage i like good videos like this with details
It really doesn't matter! You start with 120, then around 250,then 400 and finish with 800,but you could also skip some between or end with 600 up to 1200. Paint fills last small dents and grabs nicely.
Very nice. I can't begin to imagine though, even allowing the thought into my head that my time should ever be spent sanding and finnishing some plastic off my 3d printer.
Looks fantastic! Thanks for posting this!
TAKE MY LIKE SIR, more videos like this need to be on youtube. STRAIGHT TO THE POINT!!!!!!!!!!!! A++++++++++++
man this is actually a lifesaver! excellent video, clear instructions easy to follow and straight to the point :)
Great work I will try this with figures!
It is you who developed this technique? Nice to meet you, man. We're doing it for years.
This is like 50yo tech. I just used it on 3d print and shown to others :)
@@JKTechSi I know, I know, I'm joking. I take words too literal too often ;)
@@S.... =)
Noice. I'm into drones but have nothing in common with 3D printing, but this vid got my attention.
Very nice best 3D print smoothing tutorial iv seen
Ahh this was really helpful! I have a 3D printed mask for a cosplay that I need to paint and sand and whatnot, so this helps a lot!!
so far sanding seems to work the best. Every other method Ive seen makes the model look a bit like it was left in the sun in nevada
Awesome job with this video! Clear and direct to the point, you just got a new subscriber just because of this video. I have been looking to make my prints look more professional and this was by far the best video i have ever viewed
Wow, I'm impressed
Turned out amazing!
I’m keen to try clear over base 2k automotive paint.
This is the smoothest I ever saw on youtube
Great work
I think I will give this a shot
Excellent video. Short and to the point. Just maybe one suggestion would be to try the same thing with a hobby spray gun. Not only does that involve smaller quantities of paint, but it also avoids the issue that, if you use the normal paint can only rarely, by the next time you use it the nozzle may be clogged up.
Just saw this and really admire your work. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. Cheers.
thanks! :)
Thanks for your video. Very useful for me. Regards from Italy.
On Point! No bla bla! Perfect!
awesome finish!
Awesome result!
Thanks! It's most clear instructions I've ever seen! Thanks again!
Well done Man! awesome work!
Yuri, you are genius.
Very well done, I am about to paint a rather large printed RC truck. Thanks for the tips. I can only hope I can get 1/2 of the finish you did.
Thanks for this, very helpful tutorial! Just bought myself a CR-10 and am about to start a pretty big tech project that'll be featured on my channel. I'll definitely be using this method and giving you a shout out!
Great Video Tutorial, however, DON NOT use water when doing this with PLA. PLA soaks up water and expands! The BodyFill Primer you are using is awesome and a bit elastic and sands great, but other primers don't expand and will crack like crazy if the PLA absorbs any water/moisture while it's drying.. If you use water any part of the PLA print that isn't fully covered by the primer when you are doing the final sanding will expand and then later after you apply the last coat it can shrink(when it dies out again) back down in those areas and cause dips in the finish.
Very good tutorial! looks great!
Super nice and smooth surface!! Thanks man
best vid on this subject i have seen. great work.
Thanks! :)
Amazing video! Super clear explanation and I love that you show the process and result in such a clear way too. Thanks!
Deserves a like from me!
Good work Jure!
That’s so awesome bro thx for sharing! Keep it up mate 👌
wtf. you said dont spray too much or it will drip but i see you keep spraying like crazy but it works!
Really depends on the color you use. Some can be sprayed thicker and they wont drip, some needs a bit of time between the coats. I used quite warm spray can and I also cut video a bit. When it starts dripping it's too late!
+juresnip - ohhh haha. looks like a long uncut shot. well done
generally the "right" way to do it is to lay down your first coats super dusty and light, this makes a sticky base of color for later coats. after that gets to somewhere between tacky and dry you start with the heavy coats, you gotta let them Dry almost completely before the next coat with some paints or else they e̶g̶g̶ ̶s̶h̶e̶l̶l̶ orange peel texture from the gasses leaving the paint underneath. anyway your last coat should be actually really wet. not so much that it drips, but certainly heavier than you'd think: this is how you get that smooth shiny look.
edit: eggshell is a desirable finish haha I meant orange peel
well, that clearly wasn't too much. smh
@@JKTechSi Oh.. should you warm up the paint can before use?
That looks so good
Great video, I love that canopy - and that finish is superb!
Excellent. As has already been said, straight to the point and useful relevant advice. Subscribed! Thank you.
Good job. I am thankful to you for showing this.
Hey there Jure, this is a really great tutorial. Subscribed. Compliments from Turkey, Keep it up!