Hey man. The reason that car reader is running too rich is because you're turning this flap. Screw the wrong way, tightening the Spring makes it run richer, especially when you stomp on the gas. If you want it to lean out you have to loosen the screw to allow more air in the car braider. Basically, it's like you're running it with your hand over the top of it. It's pulling more vacuum than air, which means it's pulling too much fuel. You're just doing the process backwards. It's no big deal a lot of people can't wrap their head around it, but I'm telling you straight up. You're doing it wrong, take my advice and don't feel some sort of way about it. It's not anything but helpful advice. Or you can sit there and fludge your engine out and wash your soldiers down. All you want, but until you do it the correct way. You're not gonna have any luck with it? So, you should take the video off the air until you get it. Correct, you're gonna have a lot of people screwing their cars up because you're giving them the wrong advice.
Best thing I can tell people these days is buy Holley I should have added that and I have had guys say how it's helped but thank you for posting ill pin this so it will help
I've been a diesel guy my whole life. I've been wanting to learn about carbs by building a small block making 550hp. This is honestly some of the best and easiest to understand information I've found about AVS2. Thanks a ton for making an easy to understand and informative video.
Thank you for sharing a simple solution. I always get to technical with my friends regarding these simple measures- I forwarded to my shade tree mechanic friends, hopefully they will figure out the stutter issue you describe, as I have told them multiple times about all around component selections and tuning. They all run way to big carbs and way to big cams usually way under flow sized heads - like a 700CFM on a basically stock TH 350 crate with votech heads. or they do not have a appropriately sized stall converter on a street cam and they can never make the car be street drivable. The OG small block 400 2 blot main in my cruiser car. I run 202 cast iron messaged heads with typical off the shelf bottom end and top end goodies with a 272 Isk Cam, never had an issue with my avs2's out of box I always checked and verified factory settings on carb and run 4 turns out on each banks mix screws and then adjust secondary flap to my liking. I run 650 CFM model with slightly oversized jets in primary and stock secondary's I also use the top most position secondary linkage accelerator position. Runs like a champ. I always get initial and absolute timing involved in the convo and it confuses everyone. I love the AVS 2 for a street cammed cruiser car-- course we go bigger on strip setups. my 650 on 400 Small block I run the rpm at 625 RPM Curb Idle ... Old video was running a 650 Thunder. czcams.com/video/OT7MatVrXB0/video.html czcams.com/video/uBCJQzlL-iY/video.html
Thank you my friend I really appreciate your video. I just picked up the same carb for my 351 Windsor. The engine and truck is how it was when I purchased it. It has the largest cam possible for the stock heads. I suppose I'm going to run into the same issues you did
Bro I greatly appreciate you making this vidja I've been having issues where as soon as my secondaries open up it just coughs and dies, I'm gonna go adjust and test my truck tomorrow, I have a very very similar build as well, comp 262XE cam and holley heads but other than that same thing as you. Thanks again
Great video my 99 S10 ext cab 5sp has almost the same setup 350 30 over comp cam vortec heads pro comp aluminum intake shorty headers and the 650cc AVS 2 Series 4 barrel carb with manual choke and it's wanting 2 spit a bit when cracking on her around 3rd 2 4th and 5th gear shifts spits a bit instead of 4 barrel opening up all the way. Other than that she's a nice daily driven hot rod truck that still functions as a truck also.
Watching this made me go to national carburetor as well . I got same one too. Question, the fast idle screw is it suppose to be all the way in catching the choke flap ?
Someone asked the other day about the fast idle screw I've never used mine or even looked to see where it's at I can look on mine and see I still have it but I'm not running it anymore
Hi Chris, i found this video very interesting, i thought you did a good job of explaining, i got to be honest i really wanted to see some holes drilled, i will look to see if there is a part 2 , i have a 1406 in the 55 truck, i did two videos on the rebuild 1 year ago on my channel, i was able to rebuild it without changing metering rods and springs, i really had no way of telling when i was done if i got ultimate performance, but it was a big difference between before and after, i would like to learn more about the AVS, sounds like a really good carb
Chris, i found the second video where you are drilling the throttle plates, i am watching it now, but might have to come back to it in awhile, have to head to work soon, talk to you soon buddy
HUGE carburetor question. I have the AVS2 on a 79’ mustang 302. When my engine gets a little overheated, the car somewhat stalls / chokes in first and second gear (doesn’t happen when it’s cold). Once I let of the fuel a bit, and ease the pedal, the engine smooth back out and I’m good. It normally happens at a stop. I will be making some adjustments that was stated in your video. Do you have any suggestions to what the issue may be? - Thank you for the video and your time
The problem that leads you to drilling your throttle blades is likely a lack of spark advance. Try tuning the vacuum advance on the distributor. The engine will likely idle fine with the throttle blades fully closed if you have enough timing advance.
Yup. Loosen the hold down bracket on your HEI and slow turn and listen to the idle. Get it where it sits as high as possible. Then turn down your idle to say 800. Then turn your mixture screw to dial in the idle. That’s what I did. Mine feel Fuel injected no flat spots anywhere. Good share! Larry
@@mafosa8519 excellent start. Then the mechanical advance needs to be limited as not to exceed total advance. If you look down the carb at idle now, you will probably see fuel dripping from the center booster. Should be idling on the idle circuit. Just a square showing on the transfer port with the throttle blade closed all the way down on idle stop screw. Don’t drill holes.
@@tomreyn3610 yeah I'm thinking a mod motor has less vacuum at idle typically..why would he say the spring and metering rod would need a stiffer spring.. kinda confusing coming from Holler world.. just got the off road model for a 388 with roller cam, heads etc.. getting a little worried...
I was showing this video to my buddy at work so he can reset his avs2 to factory and start to go leaner from there. And I looked at the view count,,,,, good god brother 57k!!!!! That's amazing.
Ive got a 350 vortec, 1;6 rockers, stock lower end high rise intake and headers. Ive got an avs2 that stubles when i first hit the accelerator. I can ease into it and it runs great! Any advice?
I just bought a AVS2 1905 Manual choke and secondary's, putting it on a 1968 Torino with 302. it has hooker headers and a Wieland 8011 intake manifold. not Shure if it has a cam or not, as I did not put in motor. if it does it I a very mild one. so mild mods. Has a C4 with higher 2000-2200 i cannot remember stall converter and shift kit. will b putting in a Posi kit with 355 ring and pinion. if that matters. think it will go on in stock settings ??? Thanks PS bought from same company and it did not come with mounting instructions or bolt tork specs.
I’ve got an 86 f150 with a 351w. I got the avs2 and it drives fine but once warmed up it idles way too high. Would adjusting these idle screws help? FYI I’m not a car guy lol so I don’t know a lot.
Could be a couple different things 1 have you tried turning down the idle screw on the throttle linkage 2 when warm is the choke all the way open if not adjust it to open all the way 3 could be a vacuum leak from carb gasket or vacuum port 4 avs2 has a high idle feature just hit the throttle fast to disable
Would this be a good choice for a stock 350SBC with a mild Cam, headers and Edelbrock manifold? I was told 600cfm was good so not sure if going to a 650cfm would be wise?
It's a throttle bracket form edelbrock for the vortec intake manifold it uses the two back intake bolts to hold it and the bracket has a place for throttle cable cruse control and the kickdown for turbo 350 or 700r4
I've got an AVS2 650 on a stock GM Goodwrench 350. How many times do you pump the gas before a cold start? Say, if it hasn't been run in days or weeks.
Electric pump turn key let it run a few seconds pump three times and start if mechanical pump I just pump the throttle as im trying to start it tell it gets enough fuel to the carb to start
Just FYI, Edelbrock says not to use the rear port for PCV. I don't get it, because I thought vacuum was vacuum, but they specifically state the pcv must be connected to the front port.
I have Holly's on my ford 390 I'm going from a 350 2bbl to a Edelbrock performer RPM and comp DEH 265 cam I thought about classic Holly 650 but now I'm considering the AVS 2 for it's tunability over the Holly ...I like Holly but there double the price and removing both bowls to make minor Justments leaks etc ...
@@CCAutoWorks I heard about those as well they have annualar boosters right ? I was considering the Street avenger 600/650 classic Holly 650 .. almost 600 bucks tho Ot the AVS 2 EDL thing about national carb I bought my 350 holly from them it was rebuilt right but it had a damaged float bowl on the side were the plastic washers go it leaked I had to use silicone on it .
@@TheThirdWheel618 national carb is where I bought this avs 2 and it doesn't run right with a manual trans it does something stupid in-between gears so it's just sitting on the shelf it would probably run good with an automatic
@@CCAutoWorks that carb works alot like my old CV carb on a Harley the needle in the hole determines how rich or lean it is to richen it we would put washers under the needle to lift it out of the jet hole to lean you do the opposite with a adjustable needle had c clip on it sounds like the jets were to big if it was that rich and you couldn't ajust it out with my Holly I bought the big box jet assortment I have about 12 power valves buy the stack of metering block gaskets etc ..
Got a 351C modded with Edelbrock intake, heads, bored and roller cam. Sounds similar to the 351C you mentioned in this vid. Just picked up the Edelbrock 1906 AVS2 carb and am wondering if you have a video for what you did to smooth out the 351C? Thanks for the vid. VERY informative!
@@CCAutoWorks It's a 578/578 lift, 290deg duration and 110deg LSA from Comp Cams. I'm still learning on how to work on all this stuff, so I'm not really sure what all of that means though! Any help would be greatly aprpeciated!
I have a 83 chevy dually WITH a SB 350 and it has a rv cam...I just bought the edelbrock 650 AVS2 Carb. I installed it and its idling high at 2500 rpm's, could you give me some insight on what to do or how I should adjust the carb. Thank you Sir I thank you for your time and knowledge in advance.
Idling that high I'd say you have a vacuum leak somewhere at the base of your carb or maybe a vacuum port was over looked I always use carb cleaner to find leaks just spray it around the base and ports if it sucks it in it will idle down
@@CCAutoWorks haha yep. Only reason I remembered is because I swapped to an avs2 from 1406 last night after I hadn’t used the avs2 for a while and had totally forgot about that lol
I have a 400m with a mild rv cam Elderbrock manifold switching from 1411 750cfm to a 650 AVS2 Any recommendations....I don't quite understand about port and distributor vacuum...
Port vacuum has a vacuum all the time at any rpm and you can use it for distributor vacuum but the port for the distributor is a vacuum that doesn't have any vacuum at an idle it only has vacuum at higher rpms
Any idea what would be causing mine to idle high when I race the engine? When I hit the accelerator it goes back to high idle and I have to kick it down by tapping the accelerator? TIA
Could be a small vacuum leak or throttle linkage sticking or the choke staying closed a little bit and these carbs to have a high idle feature when there cold
The old timers get them nearly perfect by ear had my stepdad tune any buddy’s carb and then he happened to buy a vacuum gauge a few days later and it was pretty much dead on
Way to may variables on this old shit, that i love BTW.- Fuel pressure is very important- On a Street cam GM Small block or big block just run a stock fuel pump- I see everyone installing 30PSI electric pumps then regulating them down to 7 PSE, it makes no sense. A real OG mechanical gm fuel pump is perfect- Mines 23 years old and produces a consistent 7.2 PSI across RPM range. No need for a pressure regulator.
@@yamahaguy1732 exactly. Im 42 but learned from my dad in 80s get up in that motor and hold her like shes your lover, tune it and you know touched her right. LOL
What would be causing the idle to continually go high when i just race my engine when its idling? I always have to keep pumping the accelerator to kick the idle back down even after the engine warms up to full operating temperature it will still idle high if I race the engine.
@@CCAutoWorks thank you for the reply I will see if there are any unused ports that are not plugged! Just surprises me because I just had the carburetor installed not too long ago.
@@chrisrogers8927 I've had it happen before a vacuum cap had gotten a pin hole in it and after you would rev the engine it would fast idle for a long time before it would drop back down
Hey bubba, I was googling AVS2 settings because I don't have a wideband AFR gauge yet and your video popped up as the number one LOL that's f****** great. You guys deserve a ton of traffic man I hope there's some weirdos out there like me tonight that after hearing Trump announcing his candidacy decided to work on their muscle cars lol.
@@CCAutoWorks Oh they did with out of doubt. Now I don't know if that's because they taylor the channels I watch but you were the #1 one MCS was 2 and after that were some channels I didn't even know. I wouldn't put it past Google to do some sneaky s*** like that but we can only hope 🤷♂️
@@oscarvillarreal8951 the Edelbrock is good for a daily driver with more of a stock engine but Holley is better with bigger cams and high performance engine
The avs2 is ok we actually have one on a 351c in our 72 Mach1 it's bored .030 4v heads and a Howard's rattler cam long tube headers and an aluminum intake
@@CCAutoWorks I’ll look into that! It’s an brand new off the shelf AVS2 on a 1979 cop 360/727, Edelbrock performer intake. Stock cam and exhaust manifolds. Been fighting it since I put it on, major hesitation on initial hard pedal-to-medal throttle, then it go’s like a scalded cat. Gets a little better when I lean it slightly with the mixture screws. Elevation is basically sea level, at 150 FT Edit: would the secondaries being too big also result in the major stumble at the beginning? It backfires out the carb and sometimes dies if I keep it stomped too long
I have a 67 396 with a mother thumper cam headers roller rockers nosiey gear drive high rise intake and a avs2 I can't seems to get it tuned, I can turn the screws in and it doesn't do anything????? I also get a fuel smelly exhaust and dieseling wheb shutting truck off
@@96318dakotaify yeah that's what we done because we have a Howards rattler cam and it's basically Howards thumper cam but there is another guy you can ask who don't like my method it's @musclecarsolutions
I’m having a rich issue on my vortec. Pretty similar motor to yours, think my cam might be a tad bigger than a hot cam but not a ton bigger. Thing is driving me nuts, I’m running an efelbrock fuel pump regulated at 6, new avs2 like yours with the correct springs in it for my vaccuum and the motor is just all over the place. No vaccuum leaks. It idles up, runs rich, fires up quick sometimes, other times need persuaded, sometimes will run in gear, sometimes won’t. I’ve done just about everything besides re jet and bending float hangers to it. I am very close to putting Holley fuel injection on it. Do you suggest I try drilling mine?
@@CCAutoWorks without looking at specs I believe it is a 303 duration but I actually am pulling 14-16 in of vaccuum surprisingly. I have never been so frustrated working on a motor before lol
i pulled my 1406 and installing a 1906 and im stuck on how the back studs need to be in the inside holes i cant put the washers on the outside and start the nuts
I don't know why your back studs would be on the inside holes of the carb what intake do you have and if there not long enough for washers just unscrew them out of the intake a tiny bit
Got the same carb on my wife's 81 K5 and it back fires like an sob. Not a hundred percent sure if it's carb or timing but may try and go up a hole so it's less lean.
@@CCAutoWorks No but I believe it could be off, I just don't have a way to check it at the moment. But say it's not timing could it possibly be too much gas to carb Instead of too little. It's causing exhaust back fire when accelerating and like I said it's super hesitant. One thing I can say is the plug wires are long as shit and they are wrapped around the distributor from the previous owner, I should probably shorten them up.
@@blazerwilliams2260 back fire in the exhaust is probably timing does it backfire through the carb you don't ever want your plug wires touching each other cuz it can cause a misfire
@@blazerwilliams2260 if it's super hesitant the time is probably a little retarded turn the distributor a little bit to where it starts idling up and see if it gets better
@@CCAutoWorks Only exhaust and not carb. I was aware of the wire issue just haven't had time to sort the mess from previous owner and I thought maybe if they were good wires it would be ok but I think I will go in and clean them up so they are touching each other or arcing off anything else and at least eliminate that and see if it fixes the problem.
Greetings Great vid-Ty. At the 3:25 mark, you are discussing setting the secondary flap to factory settings. After turning the tension screw cc till the flap just touches the airhorn, you then mention to turn the screw 1 full turn; pardon my ignorance, but that 1 full turn- would that be cc or cw? Thank you
@@elinino5275 it's love and hate really if you have a automatic and it's just a daily or weekend cruiser there good carbs but for all out performance I prefer fst carbs or a Holley style carb but Holleys customer service is trash compared to Edelbrocks
Just for information guy's...that fuel pump accelerator connector looks like a Z on top of his carb, should face the other way...should look like as S, when facing the carb like this. This Edelbrock connector has a particular bend in it. Should always be an S. Just flip it. 👍
Hey man. The reason that car reader is running too rich is because you're turning this flap. Screw the wrong way, tightening the Spring makes it run richer, especially when you stomp on the gas. If you want it to lean out you have to loosen the screw to allow more air in the car braider. Basically, it's like you're running it with your hand over the top of it. It's pulling more vacuum than air, which means it's pulling too much fuel. You're just doing the process backwards. It's no big deal a lot of people can't wrap their head around it, but I'm telling you straight up. You're doing it wrong, take my advice and don't feel some sort of way about it. It's not anything but helpful advice. Or you can sit there and fludge your engine out and wash your soldiers down. All you want, but until you do it the correct way. You're not gonna have any luck with it? So, you should take the video off the air until you get it. Correct, you're gonna have a lot of people screwing their cars up because you're giving them the wrong advice.
Best thing I can tell people these days is buy Holley I should have added that and I have had guys say how it's helped but thank you for posting ill pin this so it will help
I've been a diesel guy my whole life. I've been wanting to learn about carbs by building a small block making 550hp. This is honestly some of the best and easiest to understand information I've found about AVS2. Thanks a ton for making an easy to understand and informative video.
Thank you very much for your kind words
550hp small block will be awesome
Thank you for sharing a simple solution. I always get to technical with my friends regarding these simple measures- I forwarded to my shade tree mechanic friends, hopefully they will figure out the stutter issue you describe, as I have told them multiple times about all around component selections and tuning. They all run way to big carbs and way to big cams usually way under flow sized heads - like a 700CFM on a basically stock TH 350 crate with votech heads. or they do not have a appropriately sized stall converter on a street cam and they can never make the car be street drivable. The OG small block 400 2 blot main in my cruiser car. I run 202 cast iron messaged heads with typical off the shelf bottom end and top end goodies with a 272 Isk Cam, never had an issue with my avs2's out of box I always checked and verified factory settings on carb and run 4 turns out on each banks mix screws and then adjust secondary flap to my liking. I run 650 CFM model with slightly oversized jets in primary and stock secondary's I also use the top most position secondary linkage accelerator position. Runs like a champ. I always get initial and absolute timing involved in the convo and it confuses everyone. I love the AVS 2 for a street cammed cruiser car-- course we go bigger on strip setups. my 650 on 400 Small block I run the rpm at 625 RPM Curb Idle ... Old video was running a 650 Thunder. czcams.com/video/OT7MatVrXB0/video.html czcams.com/video/uBCJQzlL-iY/video.html
BTW I like the Accel HEI cap your running- Mines 21 years old and sparks like a forest fire.
Great video brother,simple and to the point!🤙
Hey brother Thank you I really appreciate it
Thank you my friend I really appreciate your video. I just picked up the same carb for my 351 Windsor. The engine and truck is how it was when I purchased it. It has the largest cam possible for the stock heads. I suppose I'm going to run into the same issues you did
Thank you for watching just take your time and get it dialed in
Awesome info brother! I just put an AVS on my elco and have been trying to nail the idle mixture. I can approach it with some new found knowledge
That's awesome thank you for watching
Bro I greatly appreciate you making this vidja I've been having issues where as soon as my secondaries open up it just coughs and dies, I'm gonna go adjust and test my truck tomorrow, I have a very very similar build as well, comp 262XE cam and holley heads but other than that same thing as you. Thanks again
Thank you that sounds like a nice build good luck I hope you get it figured out
Really enjoy your videos!!!
Thank you for saying that I really appreciate it
Great video my 99 S10 ext cab 5sp has almost the same setup 350 30 over comp cam vortec heads pro comp aluminum intake shorty headers and the 650cc AVS 2 Series 4 barrel carb with manual choke and it's wanting 2 spit a bit when cracking on her around 3rd 2 4th and 5th gear shifts spits a bit instead of 4 barrel opening up all the way. Other than that she's a nice daily driven hot rod truck that still functions as a truck also.
Awesome a SBC s10
I have the exact set as yours on my c10 and having same problem I was going crazy but I will look into what u mention. Thanks
You can try step up springs too thanks for watching
@@CCAutoWorks thank u. I’ll will check them out
Changing the size of jets, metering rods and springs is recommended to try first.
I love it!!!! Excellent video brotha!!
Thank you
@@CCAutoWorks absolutely brotha 🤜🏼🤛🏼🍻
Watching this made me go to national carburetor as well . I got same one too. Question, the fast idle screw is it suppose to be all the way in catching the choke flap ?
Someone asked the other day about the fast idle screw I've never used mine or even looked to see where it's at I can look on mine and see I still have it but I'm not running it anymore
Awesome video!!!
Thank you I really appreciate it
Great video. Thank you, sir. 🤙
Thank you for watching it's much appreciated
In just 10 minutes I cured all the problems I had. Right on 🤙
@@ThomasKelley1111 awesome that's really good to hear
Hi Chris, i found this video very interesting, i thought you did a good job of explaining, i got to be honest i really wanted to see some holes drilled, i will look to see if there is a part 2 , i have a 1406 in the 55 truck, i did two videos on the rebuild 1 year ago on my channel, i was able to rebuild it without changing metering rods and springs, i really had no way of telling when i was done if i got ultimate performance, but it was a big difference between before and after, i would like to learn more about the AVS, sounds like a really good carb
I'll have to check out your build series
@@CCAutoWorks that would be awesome
Great video
Thanks I really appreciate that
You can plug the throttle blade holes with a TIG welder and small diameter wire, maybe 1/16th
Chris, i found the second video where you are drilling the throttle plates, i am watching it now, but might have to come back to it in awhile, have to head to work soon, talk to you soon buddy
Sounds good
Good stuff. Thanks.
great video my brother
Thank you
HUGE carburetor question. I have the AVS2 on a 79’ mustang 302. When my engine gets a little overheated, the car somewhat stalls / chokes in first and second gear (doesn’t happen when it’s cold). Once I let of the fuel a bit, and ease the pedal, the engine smooth back out and I’m good. It normally happens at a stop. I will be making some adjustments that was stated in your video. Do you have any suggestions to what the issue may be?
- Thank you for the video and your time
It could be vapor locking from the heat do you have a plastic carb spacer
@@CCAutoWorks Is plastic preferred?
@@stevefilichia7217 I use the plastic because it stays cooler keeps the intake manifold heat away from the carburetor
Excellent my dear friend I hope you are having a wonderful night your friend Haley ❤️💜❤️💜
Indeed I am hopefully you are too
Great info thanks!
Thanks for watching
The problem that leads you to drilling your throttle blades is likely a lack of spark advance. Try tuning the vacuum advance on the distributor. The engine will likely idle fine with the throttle blades fully closed if you have enough timing advance.
36°
Yup. Loosen the hold down bracket on your HEI and slow turn and listen to the idle.
Get it where it sits as high as possible. Then turn down your idle to say 800.
Then turn your mixture screw to dial in the idle.
That’s what I did. Mine feel Fuel injected no flat spots anywhere.
Good share!
Larry
@@mafosa8519 excellent start.
Then the mechanical advance needs to be limited as not to exceed total advance.
If you look down the carb at idle now, you will probably see fuel dripping from the center booster.
Should be idling on the idle circuit. Just a square showing on the transfer port with the throttle blade closed all the way down on idle stop screw.
Don’t drill holes.
@@tomreyn3610 yeah I'm thinking a mod motor has less vacuum at idle typically..why would he say the spring and metering rod would need a stiffer spring.. kinda confusing coming from Holler world.. just got the off road model for a 388 with roller cam, heads etc.. getting a little worried...
I was showing this video to my buddy at work so he can reset his avs2 to factory and start to go leaner from there. And I looked at the view count,,,,, good god brother 57k!!!!! That's amazing.
It's been on here a couple years
@@CCAutoWorks don't be so humble man lol
@@BPattB wish it was a better video really and maybe explain more and maybe we would have gotten more recognition from it
Ive got a 350 vortec, 1;6 rockers, stock lower end high rise intake and headers. Ive got an avs2 that stubles when i first hit the accelerator. I can ease into it and it runs great! Any advice?
Have you moved the accelerator pump to the to hole and have you checked your timing
I just bought a AVS2 1905 Manual choke and secondary's, putting it on a 1968 Torino with 302. it has hooker headers and a Wieland 8011 intake manifold. not Shure if it has a cam or not, as I did not put in motor. if it does it I a very mild one. so mild mods. Has a C4 with higher 2000-2200 i cannot remember stall converter and shift kit. will b putting in a Posi kit with 355 ring and pinion. if that matters. think it will go on in stock settings ??? Thanks PS bought from same company and it did not come with mounting instructions or bolt tork specs.
Sounds like a very nice setup
Also I know electric choke is "electric" but does it need to be wired up to work ?
Yes you have to run an 12v ignition wire to the little ear on the black round part of the choke
I’ve got an 86 f150 with a 351w. I got the avs2 and it drives fine but once warmed up it idles way too high. Would adjusting these idle screws help? FYI I’m not a car guy lol so I don’t know a lot.
Could be a couple different things 1 have you tried turning down the idle screw on the throttle linkage 2 when warm is the choke all the way open if not adjust it to open all the way 3 could be a vacuum leak from carb gasket or vacuum port 4 avs2 has a high idle feature just hit the throttle fast to disable
Would this be a good choice for a stock 350SBC with a mild Cam, headers and Edelbrock manifold? I was told 600cfm was good so not sure if going to a 650cfm would be wise?
I used to run a 650cfm on a bone stock 350 ran great I think edelbrock carbs cfm are a little under rated compared to say a holley 650cfm
They dont come in 600.
650 Is a great size for a street 350, especially with a stock gear. Redline should be near 6,000 RPM.
Quick question bud, what throttle and tv cable bracket are you using? Is the stock one?
It's a throttle bracket form edelbrock for the vortec intake manifold it uses the two back intake bolts to hold it and the bracket has a place for throttle cable cruse control and the kickdown for turbo 350 or 700r4
www.ebay.com/itm/192410940192
What size cam do you have in this? I have a .510 lift cam and mine is running rich on passenger side.
Sbc lt4 hot cam .492 lift what's your timing set to
I've got an AVS2 650 on a stock GM Goodwrench 350. How many times do you pump the gas before a cold start? Say, if it hasn't been run in days or weeks.
Electric pump turn key let it run a few seconds pump three times and start if mechanical pump I just pump the throttle as im trying to start it tell it gets enough fuel to the carb to start
before ya start tuning get your timing set, if the initial timing at right your fishing with mo bait
Yeah I should have mention that
Just FYI, Edelbrock says not to use the rear port for PCV. I don't get it, because I thought vacuum was vacuum, but they specifically state the pcv must be connected to the front port.
Great info thanks
I have Holly's on my ford 390 I'm going from a 350 2bbl to a Edelbrock performer RPM and comp DEH 265 cam I thought about classic Holly 650 but now I'm considering the AVS 2 for it's tunability over the Holly ...I like Holly but there double the price and removing both bowls to make minor Justments leaks etc ...
That's why I went avs but now I've went to a summit racing holly style carb and love it over the avs
@@CCAutoWorks I heard about those as well they have annualar boosters right ? I was considering the Street avenger 600/650 classic Holly 650 .. almost 600 bucks tho
Ot the AVS 2 EDL thing about national carb I bought my 350 holly from them it was rebuilt right but it had a damaged float bowl on the side were the plastic washers go it leaked I had to use silicone on it .
@@TheThirdWheel618 national carb is where I bought this avs 2 and it doesn't run right with a manual trans it does something stupid in-between gears so it's just sitting on the shelf it would probably run good with an automatic
@@CCAutoWorks that carb works alot like my old CV carb on a Harley the needle in the hole determines how rich or lean it is to richen it we would put washers under the needle to lift it out of the jet hole to lean you do the opposite with a adjustable needle had c clip on it sounds like the jets were to big if it was that rich and you couldn't ajust it out with my Holly I bought the big box jet assortment I have about 12 power valves buy the stack of metering block gaskets etc ..
On a holley I'd change the idle air bleeds. How does one do this on a edelbrock.
Step up springs
fuel regulator stopped most of my problems 350 sbc with the avs 2 1906 at 4.5 lbs fuel mild cam
That's good I think that's what Edelbrock recommends
Got a 351C modded with Edelbrock intake, heads, bored and roller cam. Sounds similar to the 351C you mentioned in this vid. Just picked up the Edelbrock 1906 AVS2 carb and am wondering if you have a video for what you did to smooth out the 351C? Thanks for the vid. VERY informative!
czcams.com/video/guDJV1pf4QA/video.html
czcams.com/video/F-YXfiihs38/video.html
You can try step up springs first before going crazy how big is your cam durasian and LSA
@@CCAutoWorks It's a 578/578 lift, 290deg duration and 110deg LSA from Comp Cams. I'm still learning on how to work on all this stuff, so I'm not really sure what all of that means though! Any help would be greatly aprpeciated!
@@tjandt that's a pretty good sized came it's definitely going to need different stepup springs for low vacuum to lean it out at an idle
I have a 83 chevy dually WITH a SB 350 and it has a rv cam...I just bought the edelbrock 650 AVS2
Carb. I installed it and its idling high at 2500 rpm's, could you give me some insight on what to do or how I should adjust the carb. Thank you Sir I thank you for your time and knowledge in advance.
Idling that high I'd say you have a vacuum leak somewhere at the base of your carb or maybe a vacuum port was over looked I always use carb cleaner to find leaks just spray it around the base and ports if it sucks it in it will idle down
Electric choke? If it has one, it’ll idle high at first start up but if you punch it, it should cut back
@@steelweels38 your right I forgot about that because I always disable mine
@@CCAutoWorks haha yep. Only reason I remembered is because I swapped to an avs2 from 1406 last night after I hadn’t used the avs2 for a while and had totally forgot about that lol
Thanks fellas...appreciate your input and knowledge.
I had to do a little adjustment and she runs and sounds good.
I have a 400m with a mild rv cam
Elderbrock manifold switching from 1411 750cfm to a 650 AVS2
Any recommendations....I don't quite understand about port and distributor vacuum...
Port vacuum has a vacuum all the time at any rpm and you can use it for distributor vacuum but the port for the distributor is a vacuum that doesn't have any vacuum at an idle it only has vacuum at higher rpms
Thank you
Any idea what would be causing mine to idle high when I race the engine? When I hit the accelerator it goes back to high idle and I have to kick it down by tapping the accelerator? TIA
Could be a small vacuum leak or throttle linkage sticking or the choke staying closed a little bit and these carbs to have a high idle feature when there cold
@@CCAutoWorks thank you for the response
Wouldn't it be easiest to adjust the idle air mix screw with a vacuum gauge? I'm new to this but it seems the most efficient/sure way.
Your probably right if you have a vacuum gauge I just kinda wing it and do it by feel and ear
The old timers get them nearly perfect by ear had my stepdad tune any buddy’s carb and then he happened to buy a vacuum gauge a few days later and it was pretty much dead on
Way to may variables on this old shit, that i love BTW.- Fuel pressure is very important- On a Street cam GM Small block or big block just run a stock fuel pump- I see everyone installing 30PSI electric pumps then regulating them down to 7 PSE, it makes no sense. A real OG mechanical gm fuel pump is perfect- Mines 23 years old and produces a consistent 7.2 PSI across RPM range. No need for a pressure regulator.
@@yamahaguy1732 exactly. Im 42 but learned from my dad in 80s get up in that motor and hold her like shes your lover, tune it and you know touched her right. LOL
7 psi is too high. Edelbrock recommends no more than 6, and prefer it to be set at 5.5.
What would be causing the idle to continually go high when i just race my engine when its idling? I always have to keep pumping the accelerator to kick the idle back down even after the engine warms up to full operating temperature it will still idle high if I race the engine.
Vacuum leak
@@CCAutoWorks thank you for the reply I will see if there are any unused ports that are not plugged! Just surprises me because I just had the carburetor installed not too long ago.
@@chrisrogers8927 I've had it happen before a vacuum cap had gotten a pin hole in it and after you would rev the engine it would fast idle for a long time before it would drop back down
Hey bubba, I was googling AVS2 settings because I don't have a wideband AFR gauge yet and your video popped up as the number one LOL that's f****** great. You guys deserve a ton of traffic man I hope there's some weirdos out there like me tonight that after hearing Trump announcing his candidacy decided to work on their muscle cars lol.
Hey brother thanks for watching that would definitely be sweet if they did
@@CCAutoWorks Oh they did with out of doubt. Now I don't know if that's because they taylor the channels I watch but you were the #1 one MCS was 2 and after that were some channels I didn't even know. I wouldn't put it past Google to do some sneaky s*** like that but we can only hope 🤷♂️
Did you get this carburetor to work in your vehicle? What would you rather use the Edelbrock AVS2 or Holley Carburator?
A Holley has way more adjustment and that's what I'm running now I got rid of this avs2
@@CCAutoWorks Holley 600? Did you get frustrated with the edelbrock? the summit intake hold pretty good?
@@oscarvillarreal8951 the Edelbrock is good for a daily driver with more of a stock engine but Holley is better with bigger cams and high performance engine
@@CCAutoWorks I also wanted to buy the summit intake. Yours looks like it lasted and holds up pretty well.
@@oscarvillarreal8951 I think it's a great intake and there alot cheaper then a name brand
how did that avs 351c go i got a cleveland with holley double pumper but i think my diaphram is blown so i was gonna get a new carb on it
The avs2 is ok we actually have one on a 351c in our 72 Mach1 it's bored .030 4v heads and a Howard's rattler cam long tube headers and an aluminum intake
czcams.com/video/F-YXfiihs38/video.html
@@CCAutoWorks i seen that video thanks man i appreciate it
I had another question man: what could cause me to tune for best possible vacuum, but still run rich with WOT?
Probably to big of jets on your secondaries
@@CCAutoWorks I’ll look into that! It’s an brand new off the shelf AVS2 on a 1979 cop 360/727, Edelbrock performer intake. Stock cam and exhaust manifolds. Been fighting it since I put it on, major hesitation on initial hard pedal-to-medal throttle, then it go’s like a scalded cat. Gets a little better when I lean it slightly with the mixture screws. Elevation is basically sea level, at 150 FT
Edit: would the secondaries being too big also result in the major stumble at the beginning? It backfires out the carb and sometimes dies if I keep it stomped too long
Mine is on a 1966 Plymouth 383 and it backfires when I slow down. In fact, it blew my muffler apart. What could be causing this?
What's your timing set at
Backfire through the exhaust sounds more like timing
Not sure, I just got the car two days ago :((
@@paulhindenburg1460 I would definitely start by checking the timing
Mine 12° initial and 34° overall but I'm not sure what a Mopar 383 is
I have a 67 396 with a mother thumper cam headers roller rockers nosiey gear drive high rise intake and a avs2 I can't seems to get it tuned, I can turn the screws in and it doesn't do anything????? I also get a fuel smelly exhaust and dieseling wheb shutting truck off
Yessir it's because the mother thumper cams are 107 lsa no vacuum I'll send u a video of how I fixed my problem
czcams.com/video/guDJV1pf4QA/video.html
You can spend money on stepup springs and jets and needles to do it right but I drilled throttle blades because it's cheap easy fix
@@CCAutoWorks think that would help me be able to set it at idle? If it doesn't I have another parts carb I can use the butter flys
@@96318dakotaify yeah that's what we done because we have a Howards rattler cam and it's basically Howards thumper cam but there is another guy you can ask who don't like my method it's @musclecarsolutions
I’m having a rich issue on my vortec. Pretty similar motor to yours, think my cam might be a tad bigger than a hot cam but not a ton bigger. Thing is driving me nuts, I’m running an efelbrock fuel pump regulated at 6, new avs2 like yours with the correct springs in it for my vaccuum and the motor is just all over the place. No vaccuum leaks. It idles up, runs rich, fires up quick sometimes, other times need persuaded, sometimes will run in gear, sometimes won’t. I’ve done just about everything besides re jet and bending float hangers to it. I am very close to putting Holley fuel injection on it. Do you suggest I try drilling mine?
Sounds like it's loading up at an ideal I think drilling holes will lean it out how big is your cam
@@CCAutoWorks without looking at specs I believe it is a 303 duration but I actually am pulling 14-16 in of vaccuum surprisingly. I have never been so frustrated working on a motor before lol
@@andrewayersman6923 what's the lsa that's a lot of vacuum for that much duration
@@andrewayersman6923 I only pull like 12-13 and my cams small
@@andrewayersman6923 have you checked float height
i pulled my 1406 and installing a 1906 and im stuck on how the back studs need to be in the inside holes i cant put the washers on the outside and start the nuts
I don't know why your back studs would be on the inside holes of the carb what intake do you have and if there not long enough for washers just unscrew them out of the intake a tiny bit
i got it done
@@mikewarren5262 awesome
Another trick is to hook the distributor up to full vacuum and not ported.
Got the same carb on my wife's 81 K5 and it back fires like an sob. Not a hundred percent sure if it's carb or timing but may try and go up a hole so it's less lean.
Have you checked the timing
@@CCAutoWorks No but I believe it could be off, I just don't have a way to check it at the moment. But say it's not timing could it possibly be too much gas to carb Instead of too little. It's causing exhaust back fire when accelerating and like I said it's super hesitant. One thing I can say is the plug wires are long as shit and they are wrapped around the distributor from the previous owner, I should probably shorten them up.
@@blazerwilliams2260 back fire in the exhaust is probably timing does it backfire through the carb you don't ever want your plug wires touching each other cuz it can cause a misfire
@@blazerwilliams2260 if it's super hesitant the time is probably a little retarded turn the distributor a little bit to where it starts idling up and see if it gets better
@@CCAutoWorks Only exhaust and not carb. I was aware of the wire issue just haven't had time to sort the mess from previous owner and I thought maybe if they were good wires it would be ok but I think I will go in and clean them up so they are touching each other or arcing off anything else and at least eliminate that and see if it fixes the problem.
My AVS will idle with screws all the way closed! In a Cleveland.
It's because the cylinders are loaded up with fuel
On are cammed 351c we finally drilled the throttle blades to lean it out so it wouldn't load up
Greetings
Great vid-Ty.
At the 3:25 mark, you are discussing setting the secondary flap to factory settings.
After turning the tension screw cc till the flap just touches the airhorn, you then mention to turn the screw 1 full turn; pardon my ignorance, but that 1 full turn- would that be cc or cw?
Thank you
Cc to put more tension on the flap
Slingblade.. Carl
Lol I'm reckon
a k&n substack should help lean it up
Why did you add a spacer?
It's known to add horsepower
@@CCAutoWorks Ahh okay, makes sense
Adjust the float height
Is this a 650cfm?
Yes
@CCAutoWorks I'm thinking of buying one but seem problematic. How would you rate these from 1-10?
@@elinino5275 it's love and hate really if you have a automatic and it's just a daily or weekend cruiser there good carbs but for all out performance I prefer fst carbs or a Holley style carb but Holleys customer service is trash compared to Edelbrocks
Just for information guy's...that fuel pump accelerator connector looks like a Z on top of his carb, should face the other way...should look like as S, when facing the carb like this. This Edelbrock connector has a particular bend in it. Should always be an S. Just flip it. 👍
That's got to be worth at least another 10 HP thanks for watching
No, but correct is correct.
This is a review not a guide or anything actually tuning it’s just a review on the carb.
Ok to each there own
I think you are confusing idle circuit with midrange and wide open throttle.
Yeah your probably right who knows thanks for watching
Just spend the extra $100 on a new one.
Should have because I've already thrown that thing in the trash
@@CCAutoWorks Yeah, too many people have tinkered with used ones. Carbs are pretty cheap. Just buy new.
@@TOMVUTHEPIMP forsure
Run straight out of the box and foul all your plugs!!!!!
You breathe to hard
Yeah it's the mic I've tested on other people and does the same thing
Thanks for watching