Just an old timer here in South Georgia,framing for 30 /yrs .Love to watch the new generation with the new tools work.Y’all do great work….Dude on the red hoodie might want to step it up notch.All good
Liked it . Can't say I ever saw basement walls elevated like that . But if it's local code , So be it . Though I have had engineers require when we framed basement or walkout basement walls to be gapped away from floor trusses.. Only bearing contact was allowed at intervals designed into a floor truss , Otherwise random support on a web changes the structural moments and they'll scream structural failure . That was one heck of a 2x14 strongback . Probably put more load on the ceiling joist than providing support in that span . I am always wary of removing ceiling joist on a low slope roof . Got to take a good look upwards before removing below . Granted I know the decking provides a lot of triangulation and there were a few collar ties . Seen some before that framed a vault like that , Frame the roof and sheathe it and must have weakly nailed the it , Strip the braces and then install the collars . Blew the wall out 2" in the center . Ain't no Come Along's going to pull that in LOL . Made for some interesting curved fascia . Never saw how the T&G worked out , Just glad it wasn't me .On any gable like the internal gable you got there , Found a neat way to figure the studs instead of pulling off a lead stud and laying it out on the raked top plate . Then measuring each individually . I plumb up the longest gable stud and record it's length , Then get the shortest gable stud and record it . Then subtract the shortest from the longest and divide by how many stud bays. Then I got a ratio , Essentially a common length difference no matter the slope . Then input the ratio into a calculator and subtract from the longest and list each one for the cut man . To confirm whether I used the correct ratio . It will conclude on the calculator at what I measured the shortest stud or even the second to the shortest . This technique works great on hips/valleys anything that requires a ratio .. Then hand the cut man the list and tell him " Cut and Shut " .. To drive the cut man insane , For my simplicity I write the numbers down in hieroglyphics. For example , Instead of 67-7/8 " it'll be 67-14 , Instead of 32-1/4 " it'll be 32-4 .. This system works great for benchmark stud heights . If a walk out basement has a rippling exterior slab perimeter . Say the benchmark stud height is 134-3/4 " . The 134 becomes a known and all the variable heights are transferred into 1/16" . So if one stud is 134-5/8 " and the next is 134-1/2 " and down the line . Instead of a lot writing . It becomes simply . 10 then 8 and so on . I also got accustomed to not snapping lines on vaults . If the roof has variable sags and heaves . A crisply snapped line will strike the rafter and it will have a oscillating line back and forth. Sometimes a little sometimes a lot . That's why I don't snap lines on rafters tails run wild and then clipped off . Looking down it. The greater the overhang the greater the in and out , because it's wood and it rises and falls that precious amount . I will on a vault go to each end and install the rafter. If it's the one that's sistered alongside the existing . I might drop it ever so slightly so as not to interfere with the maximum and minimum sag . Then run a taut string and gap it with a 8d nail . Install down the line and visually gap that nails diameter.. Never come into contact and from one end to the next even if it's 75' long . My deviation won't be more than a 1/32" from one end to the next ..As long as my string is pulled as tight as the high E-string on a guitar . I use this method as well on knee walls intersecting a rafter for a loft or bonus room . It'll give me a crisp intersect that a drywall artist will love .. But then again . Some hangers will still make the intersect finish out like I dipped a worm in chalk . Not trying to be a smart aleck or criticize , I love seeing younger guys picking up the mantle and aspiring . It's tough work and fun . It's always been fun to build and go home happy . Peace
That’s a lot of wisdom! I appreciate you taking the time to share! I will definitely be considering the dry line for cutting tails, because the chalk line is pretty unreliable
Great video man loved the style of this one. Did you get a new camera? Those shots of you framing the wall hand nailing looked so good with the lighting.
Seems you guys in the US are moving to using Paslode more as us Carpenters in the UK are dumping them. Personally never been a fan of Paslode but loads of others love theirs. I swear by old Bostitch gas nailer it's been so reliable & even uses the old NiMh batteries LOL But for the most part I prefer pneumatic like most of you US guys. That sort of roof is what 90% of the roofs we have in the UK are like. I do quite a few loft conversions so cutting old cut roofs about & altering them is a good chunk of my work, lots of the yng Carpenters now can't do cut roofs though as all the new builds they work on are Trusses.
Хорошо придумано с фальшивым потолком, и Укосины нужны, однако потолок в таком помещении все-равно будет давить. Нужно ставить мансардные окна в истинный скат крыши.
Been framing in Florida 36 years. Love to see the younger generation stepping in and doing the same thing. Nice job guys.
Just an old timer here in South Georgia,framing for 30 /yrs .Love to watch the new generation with the new tools work.Y’all do great work….Dude on the red hoodie might want to step it up notch.All good
Nice work! Totally changed that house
Nice job lads
Liked it . Can't say I ever saw basement walls elevated like that . But if it's local code , So be it . Though I have had engineers require when we framed basement or walkout basement walls to be gapped away from floor trusses.. Only bearing contact was allowed at intervals designed into a floor truss , Otherwise random support on a web changes the structural moments and they'll scream structural failure . That was one heck of a 2x14 strongback . Probably put more load on the ceiling joist than providing support in that span . I am always wary of removing ceiling joist on a low slope roof . Got to take a good look upwards before removing below . Granted I know the decking provides a lot of triangulation and there were a few collar ties . Seen some before that framed a vault like that , Frame the roof and sheathe it and must have weakly nailed the it , Strip the braces and then install the collars . Blew the wall out 2" in the center . Ain't no Come Along's going to pull that in LOL . Made for some interesting curved fascia . Never saw how the T&G worked out , Just glad it wasn't me .On any gable like the internal gable you got there , Found a neat way to figure the studs instead of pulling off a lead stud and laying it out on the raked top plate . Then measuring each individually . I plumb up the longest gable stud and record it's length , Then get the shortest gable stud and record it . Then subtract the shortest from the longest and divide by how many stud bays. Then I got a ratio , Essentially a common length difference no matter the slope . Then input the ratio into a calculator and subtract from the longest and list each one for the cut man . To confirm whether I used the correct ratio . It will conclude on the calculator at what I measured the shortest stud or even the second to the shortest . This technique works great on hips/valleys anything that requires a ratio .. Then hand the cut man the list and tell him " Cut and Shut " .. To drive the cut man insane , For my simplicity I write the numbers down in hieroglyphics. For example , Instead of 67-7/8 " it'll be 67-14 , Instead of 32-1/4 " it'll be 32-4 .. This system works great for benchmark stud heights . If a walk out basement has a rippling exterior slab perimeter . Say the benchmark stud height is 134-3/4 " . The 134 becomes a known and all the variable heights are transferred into 1/16" . So if one stud is 134-5/8 " and the next is 134-1/2 " and down the line . Instead of a lot writing . It becomes simply . 10 then 8 and so on . I also got accustomed to not snapping lines on vaults . If the roof has variable sags and heaves . A crisply snapped line will strike the rafter and it will have a oscillating line back and forth. Sometimes a little sometimes a lot . That's why I don't snap lines on rafters tails run wild and then clipped off . Looking down it. The greater the overhang the greater the in and out , because it's wood and it rises and falls that precious amount . I will on a vault go to each end and install the rafter. If it's the one that's sistered alongside the existing . I might drop it ever so slightly so as not to interfere with the maximum and minimum sag . Then run a taut string and gap it with a 8d nail . Install down the line and visually gap that nails diameter.. Never come into contact and from one end to the next even if it's 75' long . My deviation won't be more than a 1/32" from one end to the next ..As long as my string is pulled as tight as the high E-string on a guitar . I use this method as well on knee walls intersecting a rafter for a loft or bonus room . It'll give me a crisp intersect that a drywall artist will love .. But then again . Some hangers will still make the intersect finish out like I dipped a worm in chalk . Not trying to be a smart aleck or criticize , I love seeing younger guys picking up the mantle and aspiring . It's tough work and fun . It's always been fun to build and go home happy . Peace
That’s a lot of wisdom! I appreciate you taking the time to share! I will definitely be considering the dry line for cutting tails, because the chalk line is pretty unreliable
Great video man loved the style of this one. Did you get a new camera? Those shots of you framing the wall hand nailing looked so good with the lighting.
I didn’t! But I am definitely learning more on how to use it and set it right
👏👏👏👏👏
The Stiletto hat 🥵
👍👍
Cool video as always !! How do you like the Occidental’s ?
Hell yea
Mate you made a hard job look easy…Niiice. How is the bump fire Paslode working out ?
So far so good!
@@Coffmanconstruction did they give you free nails.
Seems you guys in the US are moving to using Paslode more as us Carpenters in the UK are dumping them.
Personally never been a fan of Paslode but loads of others love theirs. I swear by old Bostitch gas nailer it's been so reliable & even uses the old NiMh batteries LOL
But for the most part I prefer pneumatic like most of you US guys.
That sort of roof is what 90% of the roofs we have in the UK are like. I do quite a few loft conversions so cutting old cut roofs about & altering them is a good chunk of my work, lots of the yng Carpenters now can't do cut roofs though as all the new builds they work on are Trusses.
Хорошо придумано с фальшивым потолком, и Укосины нужны, однако потолок в таком помещении все-равно будет давить. Нужно ставить мансардные окна в истинный скат крыши.
Floating walls to account for shifting in the ground?
Bingo! expansive bensonite
Tou ever watch lett LetterKenny?
how did he cut 2 plates with the metabo saw at the start of the video???
Dudes got cheat codes
Why are the walls levitating in the basement?
Required by local codes due to expansive soil.
Chimley