We take an xr200 shifter shaft with a bad spline and do a full repair on the lathe with a knurling tool and the worn-out spline is brought back to factory new.
I had that problem with my moped many years ago but I just put a piece of thin plate from a soda can around the shaft to get a tighter squeeze. I think it held up quite well but not as new splines.
Glad you enjoyed it. I think to do it again I may have covered the shaft some how to protect it from spatter and welded it up on low heat little bits at a time with a big welder ( .024 wire with 75/25 has ) Then machined it. Could be a lot simpler that way. The only draw back would be to much heat I to the shaft
I was thinking you really don't need that groove in the splines for the pinch bolt to go all the way around . The tip of the shift lever doesn't need that much point up or point down adjustment . If you just filed enough groove for the bolt you would have most of the spline go all the way across and make a stronger connection ? I understand that would never be practical for the factory to do it that way.. Great video .
Very nice I learned something. I had 6 months training before I went off to university and study engineering. Back then they didn't even have indexable carbide tools or DRO's. Now in retirement I have just bought a new Precision Matthews 1440GT lathe and an 835 mill. Cheap Chinese tooling and I'm having a blast...:)
Frankish , man I'm glad to hear that. all my stuff is second hand or with cheap tooling as well. In fact the knurling tool I was using cost $10, lol. Dro is worth the money ( all my dros are Chinese ones and are good and accurate ) What have you been building?
@@Wrighmachining Well so far I have been setting up and reconfiguring my shop. I built a clean work bench with a steel top, then promptly put all my grinding gear on it.. NOPE!.. Now have been moving all the dirty stuff away from the machine beds. I put a 3 axis (Chinese) DRO on the mill and mounted the encoders so that all the open sides are turned away from the flying chips. This meant a lot more bracketry and 3 days of work.. But hey I got a nice mill to make all the adjustment slots..:). So far I have welded up the supplied thread on the QC toolpost and on the lathe screw cut the required thread.. I actually used the HSS tool I ground in 1980 in my apprentice program.. I was surprised I didn't mess it up. So far more welding than machining. I gotta get me one of those straight knurling tools. I assumed the splines were cut on a dividing head.
@@frankish5314 man, you have been busy. The dro is life changing. I had a 10 x30 Frejoth lathe before this one and it didn't have one on it and then got this one and put one on. It made working so much faster. The splines were roll-knurled, super easy to do once the height is set. I did it the hard way a few years back on the indexer and was a pain To do. I had to start covering the machines due to the grinding dust and torch table cutting. I found the black moving clothes (/cotton ) at princess auto ( like harbor freight) for 5 each. Wish I had a separate room for it all but that's just another thing to spend money on that I don't have :)
Totally and for what you pay and how the job looks in the end is unbeatable. Mine has payed for it's self a few times over ( got lucky and had some jobs for it )
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 thanks tom !! A mile stone for sure, love all the support from people and met so many amazing people along the way this last year.
Careful. Is the welding current passing in turn through the lathe bearings? I use an old copper plated woven flat car battery earth over the lathe shaft/chuck.
Oh no I definitely don't weld on the lathe. I'm using a welding positioner (/it looks like a lathe but is designed to weld round stuff ) Basically it works like your saying it had a piece of copper that drags on the chuck and doesn't destroy the bearings in the head of the positioner .good point !
Great job , Just wondering how tight you would recommend that pinch bolt to be , my manual says 10nm but that feels tight and it squeezes the gap down at and angle , do they just need nipping up so they don't move around or would you tourqe it to the manual spec , my bolt is an m8 hex head into aluminium
To be honest I can't give you an answer to this. But what I can speak to is I have always referred to factory manuals my self and it's best practice to follow them. I have heard very experienced mechanics say that after market manuals frequently have errors in them and I do not trust them 100%. Hope this helped
@@Wrighmachining thanks for the reply and I totally agree , I settled with 8nm as I just nipped it up and it felt just about right and put the tourqe wrench on it and it was 7.5 nm so I went to 8nm , but any more than that on such a small bolt into aluminium would be overkill I think 👍🏼👍🏼
if i sent you the old ratchet shifter from my victory vegas motorcycle and the money (the amt you charge)could you make me one for my bike ? You do incredible work the best ive seen on YT .
Hi LJ thank you. wish I could help you out but I'm booked solid for the next 2 months. :( Perhaps in summer. Shoot me an email, you can find it in the about section of my YT page
@@Wrighmachining thank you for replying.Enjoyed your video and i am not surprised to hear you are booked solid with the quality work you do. thanks again
That worked out really well! I wonder if you were lucky to find a knurling wheel to match the splines you needed to make, or if they are both commonly that size?
I'm in tacoma , Washington actually you might just be able to make a new bar it has a pin that holds the paw on it its for a 1977 Suzuki rm125 also fits the Suzuki pe.. I could send it to you and have you look at it I would be willing to pay Shipping both ways and you could save measurements and make more because.. can't get them anymore and it's the rod and splinds that go bad..
I've never heard of this. You did an amazing job. I will definitely be using this technique.
Glad to help !! I was making them the hard way for a long time and this was sugested to my by an old machinist / motorcycle enthuaiest :)
Thanks for the plug and thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
No problem, like wise :)
Learning something every time, thanks.
Np Roscoe I love making videos and sharing.
I had that problem with my moped many years ago but I just put a piece of thin plate from a soda can around the shaft to get a tighter squeeze. I think it held up quite well but not as new splines.
Some times you do what you have to when you dont have to tools and have to get home :)
I enjoyed this and look forward to my own repair job as I will be facing a repair on a Hond XL 250 kick starter spline and lever.
Glad you enjoyed it. I think to do it again I may have covered the shaft some how to protect it from spatter and welded it up on low heat little bits at a time with a big welder ( .024 wire with 75/25 has ) Then machined it. Could be a lot simpler that way. The only draw back would be to much heat I to the shaft
I was thinking you really don't need that groove in the splines for the pinch bolt to go all the way around . The tip of the shift lever doesn't need that much point up or point down adjustment . If you just filed enough groove for the bolt you would have most of the spline go all the way across and make a stronger connection ? I understand that would never be practical for the factory to do it that way.. Great video .
Good thought . I see what you mean . I will try that next time
I always use an air compressor and brake cleaner to make the knurls clean in between oiling.
Good point thank you, Compressed air would have worked better for sure. Next time :)
Very nice I learned something. I had 6 months training before I went off to university and study engineering. Back then they didn't even have indexable carbide tools or DRO's. Now in retirement I have just bought a new Precision Matthews 1440GT lathe and an 835 mill. Cheap Chinese tooling and I'm having a blast...:)
Frankish , man I'm glad to hear that. all my stuff is second hand or with cheap tooling as well. In fact the knurling tool I was using cost $10, lol.
Dro is worth the money ( all my dros are Chinese ones and are good and accurate )
What have you been building?
@@Wrighmachining Well so far I have been setting up and reconfiguring my shop. I built a clean work bench with a steel top, then promptly put all my grinding gear on it.. NOPE!.. Now have been moving all the dirty stuff away from the machine beds. I put a 3 axis (Chinese) DRO on the mill and mounted the encoders so that all the open sides are turned away from the flying chips. This meant a lot more bracketry and 3 days of work.. But hey I got a nice mill to make all the adjustment slots..:). So far I have welded up the supplied thread on the QC toolpost and on the lathe screw cut the required thread.. I actually used the HSS tool I ground in 1980 in my apprentice program.. I was surprised I didn't mess it up. So far more welding than machining. I gotta get me one of those straight knurling tools. I assumed the splines were cut on a dividing head.
@@frankish5314 man, you have been busy. The dro is life changing. I had a 10 x30 Frejoth lathe before this one and it didn't have one on it and then got this one and put one on. It made working so much faster. The splines were roll-knurled, super easy to do once the height is set. I did it the hard way a few years back on the indexer and was a pain To do.
I had to start covering the machines due to the grinding dust and torch table cutting. I found the black moving clothes (/cotton ) at princess auto ( like harbor freight) for 5 each. Wish I had a separate room for it all but that's just another thing to spend money on that I don't have :)
Looks good there. Welding positioners are so handy to have.
Totally and for what you pay and how the job looks in the end is unbeatable. Mine has payed for it's self a few times over ( got lucky and had some jobs for it )
@@Wrighmachining Oh yeah I see your knocking on 1K subs there. Nice job 👍
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 thanks tom !! A mile stone for sure, love all the support from people and met so many amazing people along the way this last year.
@@Wrighmachining Did you get my parcel?
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 parcel?! No not yet, thank you I will keep an eye out for it.
Man that's awesome can't tell you how many times and how many bikes I had that absolutely destroyed on the same way. Would get out the welder 😆
I think when we where younger we may have all done a quick fix or two to get back ridding.
I can't confirm not deny doing the same thing :)
That's a great job, do you know what size that Knurl wheel is? Cheers
I do not sorry
excellent - and I am a Kawasaki drag racer!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it
Nurling always increases dia so your should bear this in mind for final OD.
Yes, that's right. Knurling is displacing the metal and molding it with point pressure.
Careful. Is the welding current passing in turn through the lathe bearings? I use an old copper plated woven flat car battery earth over the lathe shaft/chuck.
Oh no I definitely don't weld on the lathe. I'm using a welding positioner (/it looks like a lathe but is designed to weld round stuff ) Basically it works like your saying it had a piece of copper that drags on the chuck and doesn't destroy the bearings in the head of the positioner .good point !
👍👍👍
🍻
Great job , Just wondering how tight you would recommend that pinch bolt to be , my manual says 10nm but that feels tight and it squeezes the gap down at and angle , do they just need nipping up so they don't move around or would you tourqe it to the manual spec , my bolt is an m8 hex head into aluminium
To be honest I can't give you an answer to this. But what I can speak to is I have always referred to factory manuals my self and it's best practice to follow them. I have heard very experienced mechanics say that after market manuals frequently have errors in them and I do not trust them 100%.
Hope this helped
@@Wrighmachining thanks for the reply and I totally agree , I settled with 8nm as I just nipped it up and it felt just about right and put the tourqe wrench on it and it was 7.5 nm so I went to 8nm , but any more than that on such a small bolt into aluminium would be overkill I think 👍🏼👍🏼
if i sent you the old ratchet shifter from my victory vegas motorcycle and the money (the amt you charge)could you make me one for my bike ? You do incredible work the best ive seen on YT .
Hi LJ thank you. wish I could help you out but I'm booked solid for the next 2 months. :( Perhaps in summer. Shoot me an email, you can find it in the about section of my YT page
@@Wrighmachining thank you for replying.Enjoyed your video and i am not surprised to hear you are booked solid with the quality work you do. thanks again
That worked out really well! I wonder if you were lucky to find a knurling wheel to match the splines you needed to make, or if they are both commonly that size?
It was a bit of luck how I came across it, but I deal it's a standard size they use . however, there are a few different sizes you can find.
FYI - At the end you say here is a video you might like but there isn't a video link.
Ah yes thank you. I'll jump on right now and fix that :)
I restore vintage motorcycle, was wondering how much you charged for that?
Courently super booked with life and what not. Where about are you located?
I'm in tacoma , Washington actually you might just be able to make a new bar it has a pin that holds the paw on it its for a 1977 Suzuki rm125 also fits the Suzuki pe..
I could send it to you and have you look at it I would be willing to pay Shipping both ways and you could save measurements and make more because.. can't get them anymore and it's the rod and splinds that go bad..
Let's talk, I can't post my email on the comments however it should be in my bio or in the profile contact info. Please email me :)
Better yet look me up on Facebook wright matching and DM me there. We can talk more :)
I'd use an airline ;)
Airline ? How so ?
And those parts are getting hard to find for the old bikes on some ... o never tell a machinist those words... they don't make this anymore.... lol
Hahaha, a shady machinist may make you pay double. Guess I should have charged for the part and not worked for beer :)
quiet please lol
:)
when knurling just send it full force right off the bat. dont step into it.
Full send, I'll try that :) thx
@@Wrighmachining joe pieczynski has a really good video on knurling