EEVblog
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 11. 2019
- Review of the $53 Riden (RD Tech / Rui Deng) RD6006 360W bench lab power supply module with WiFi connection.
UPDATE: I goofed the noise measurement, see pinned comment below, and this follow-up video:
• EEVblog #1266 - PSU Pr...
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/DlHrJpFS
Just the case is useful for projects! s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nQ5Pk9ck
$20 DIY Power Supply: • EEVblog #1030 - $20 DI...
DIY PSU Catches on FIRE! • EEVblog #1035 - Flamin...
Forum: www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/ee...
#Review #PowerSupply
EEVblog Main Web Site: www.eevblog.com
The 2nd EEVblog Channel: / eevblog2
Support the EEVblog through Patreon!
/ eevblog
AliExpress Affiliate: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c2LRpe8g
Buy anything through that link and Dave gets a commission at no cost to you.
Donate With Bitcoin & Other Crypto Currencies!
www.eevblog.com/crypto-currency/
T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/eevblog - Věda a technologie
UPDATE: I screwed up the noise measurement. It's actually way better at about 60mVp-p no load and about 100mVp-p at 6A using a proper scope probe in X10. I was using a BNC cable with banana plugs and forgot the 50ohm series matcher. Oops. Will have to do another video showing this. Good excuse for a video on this topic anyway.
oopsie
EEVblog is this a better reading than you originally thought? I don’t remember what you said in the video. 🙈
I think for your sensing would be better to use spade lugs and banana instead of the banana over banana, in both cases you are not taking into account the loss from the binding post to the sensing banana. That would be even better than this at higher currents. Also shouldn't matter which is the load and which the sens...
@@MrOrangeman18 Yes, way better reading. IIRC equivalent to the other RD Tech modules.
@@EEVblog When I saw 0.5 Vp-p I thought that is worse than some shitty car-plug phone charger for $1.99... Couldn't believe it, my sanity check was telling me it is odd, would be a huge downgrade in their quality but then again, it was Dave himself measuring it with high end equipment... RD buck modules are usually rather nice with noise (for their price), it used to be their buck-boost ones that had like order of magnitude worse performance in that regard.
Also that efficiency drop at around 4A, isn't that a ramp up of that small cooling fan?
Apreciaate very much opening yourself to these cheap equipment, cause there are many of us who can't afford expensive equipment that is going to be use in home-entusiast aplications, and having your respectable opinion on these afordable stuff is very very useful. (Sorry my english, from Mexico by the way)
well said
I've been enjoying mine so far.
I am from the Uk and you're english is better than mine .
Well said!
Great English
English just fine. Comment on target. Well said.
Oh I do so hate it when our marketing manager comes over and twiddles with my knob... so annoying.
My marketing manager is a girl, she can mess with my knob anytime.
And does!
@@kevinbroderick3779 is still waiting, any time now and she will come mess with his knob....any time...any...time..
My marketing manager learned not to mess with random knobs when she blew up an important prototype, losing our biggest customer and almost burning down the lab.
Really are adult people so dumb out there? Touching knobs doing stuff they do not understand at all? :facepalm:
I've been waiting for your review of these, I was holding off buying until now. Thanks!
Wow. Forget the PS, i'll buy the case for my own project. That's a nice case and way cheaper than a similar project case from Digi-key. And it comes with accessories.
Yeah, good point.
Looks like they have the case for sale under "S06A Case". ~$30.
Isogen so basically you pay like $20 for the other stuff
Jake Mitch
No the case + the regulater/controller is about $80.
Conservator I realized that after I typed it but didn't want to go back and find the comment I posted this to
Wow, Literally was looking at one of these on ban good last night! So glad you made a video!!
You are awesome Dave, Thank you for all your videos, I love watching and learning from them.
Just built one last night :-)
Works well so far!
The battery charging terminal includes protection to prevent back-powering the supply if the mains is disconnected, and reverse polarity protection to prevent blowing the crap out of the unit (or at least the fuse) if you connect the battery terminals backwards, which has been a complaint with RD supplies in the past (-_-). You wouldn't normally use it outside of charging applications as it would reduce the efficiency and maximum power handling.
Noise issue seemed clearly wrong. If that is switching noise, whats the higher frequency lower magnitude crap between pulses? There shouldn't be that much external noise coupling onto the signal. Also using an adjustable load for such measurements is usually a Bad Idea (tm)
Their DPH modules are buck+boost, so you can eg use a 12V or 19V supply and get the full 0-30V output range. I don't think they have an equivalent in their new RD series just yet.
The serial connection on the DPS/DPH units used a MODBUS implementation, hence the slave address selection. They do document this protocol quite well. It was fairly easy to build custom software to interact with, and it's supported by third party stuff such as sigrok etc. Looks like these new RD units use the same interface.
you are right ...
I blew out a supply doing just that. whoopsi
The back drive protection is standard on normal outputs on all reasonable lab supplies. There’s exactly zero reason to have a special output for that. It’s silly. It’s a single output supply, it needs a pair of output posts and that’s that. Do it right and no problem. I imagine this one wouldn’t pass my “unboxing” test. I hook lab supply outputs to a car battery, if they smoke they go back in the box and get sent back. Weeds out junk real quick. But even HP didn’t get that right once or twice.
I find it useful as it allows for a near complete disconnect from the battery when I don't want it charging but can still monitor the voltage remotely with the app. The regular port will show a small parasitic draw on the battery when connected with the output turned off, so it would need to be physically disconnected to avoid that.
It's a good feature to have available.
They just need to ditch the nonstandard backup battery, unless they just have a surplus of those battery holders to use up.
For the price, not a bad deal.
Mine just came in, very nice ......thanks! Struggled to source 60V backend PSU, so bit the bullet and ordered a 60V form their recommended supplier.
I have an old 19V laptop power supply (60W I think), all I need is a panelmount DC barrel jack into the smaller case and I should have a handy little bench supply. Looking forward to this. Thanks for doing the thorough review!
Seems very decent for the price.
28:52 I feel like this interface was designed by a technician from Hyundai. I rented one of their cars last year and was BLOWN AWAY by the thought that went into everything. Their menus and options were highly intuitive and allowed a lot of customization. Not only that, but the steering wheel controls, the media unit, the side panel controls, adaptive cruise control, it was amazing. I just really wish other companies put that kind of effort into their design and think about how the consumer will actually use the product - like the buttons and knob not doing anything unless you select a function to avoid marketing manager idiots.
Tell me more.
My experience with modern UIs has left not just a bitter taste, but a blasted hellscape
Chinese UI's are totally crap on every level. Valid for all (non stolen) firmware and software.
Well had it over 12 months now and still pleased with it. I have used it hard charging some big batteries. So have pushed to limits and still going. I did get the full Monty with all the suggested units direct Tom manufacturers. Good review nearly need to watch the follow up 😂
I've reviewed mine and I really like it. The graph mode is cool.
That is one beautiful case for one hell of a price
The case on it's own is great value.
Interesting PSU. The DC input is great for me as I run my inverters off a 48V DC battery system here so I can just add another breaker to the LVD :) I'll hang on a little first to see if anything can be done with the output noise before I get one.
FYI: Dave posted that the output noise was incorrect, it's about equivalent to other units.
Great day in the morning! Your knowledge is IMPECCABLE! Cheers my friend! Thanks for the knowledge.
Your excitement is great.
15:25 the reason they do not have an enter button on the scroll knob is because you are very likely to rotate the knob while pressing it, thereby messing up with your settings. It's human tendency and I think a seperate enter button is perfect.. although I would have appreciated a dedicated enter button right below the knob.
knob
Would definitely be interested in an output filtering video. Thanks for the review!
A decently sized common mode inductor would work.
Does not need one, Dave was not measuring correctly.
he already made one , but he did not use the *1 probe , our test is to use *1 probe and 20M bandwidth
@@rdtech9153 Got it - I understand that the measurement was done incorrectly. I was more asking for a general video on output filtering that is not related to your product. I asked because I built a 2000 volt switching power supply and was not happy with the amount of ripple I was seeing after the voltage multiplier. I have inductors in the output path but I suspect they are not big enough.
@@vincei4252 got it, I misunderstand it before
Well, my RD6006 finally arrived a few days ago, with the chassis and 60V DC supply arriving sometime mid December, though I ordered all three at the same time.
So far, I'm really liking this thing.
I got the 60V supply, so with the forward voltage from the regulator itself, it's maximum output is 58.48V DC at 6.1A. The DR6006 unit will take up to 70v in.
The graph display is actually pretty useful, because if you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale (notice the division readout at the bottom) and see the amperage and wattage, so you can plot your device's current draw over certain times of it's usage and determine what kind of power supply and fuse your prototype device will need (you could calculate that before hand, but you could end up with something way overblown for what you actually need). I was just using it as a makeshift supply to test a force feedback joystick, and was able to graph the current change when I moved the stick.
Presumably this kind of logging is what the software should be used for, but with the antivirus complaining like that, I'd use an isolated system if you need to interface with it. At least until somebody can reverse-engineer the code and determine that there's nothing untowards going on. It should be noted that there is other software from more reputable sources that recommends that you disable the antivirus while you install it, so this isn't exactly anything new. It may be nothing of concern, but exercise caution until you know for sure.
I also discovered that the voltage monitor works even when the supply is off. Probably for the battery charge function. I wouldn't use it for a multi-meter, but that's a curiosity.
The chassis and power supply fans only go on initially at startup, and thereafter only when they're needed, so it's completely silent when on standby. That would probably change if I find something to do with it that requires higher current, but with what I'm doing, it runs pretty quiet.
So far, it seems like a good buy if you get the components on sale. About $170 CDN for the whole lot on sale (on Banggood.com), including shipping, which is far cheaper than a comparable name brand supply, even off of eBay. We'll have to see how well it holds up over time, but based on what I've experienced so far, and Dave's own review, I'd definitely recommend this for electronics hobbyists looking to get their lab going at an affordable price.
What i really like most is this nice and humble oscilloscope.
haha, buy one
33:40 The only difference I could tell with battery mode via the green post is that it actually shuts down the output when the battery reaches the desired full charge level as opposed to a regular power supply or when using the red output post.
I didn't let it go long enough to find out. That's ok, but doesn't take into account various charging topologies.
I just tested it and it's just basic CC/CV functionality, but it does seem it has a shutdown at that low value, but I haven't confirmed that on my unit yet.
@@EEVblog I think it only cuts off when current drops to 10% of set value or maybe 10mA mostly good for Lithium cells.
@@electrodacus That's the thing, it doesn't tell you any of this.
EEVblog On the “RD Tech” youtube channel they have an operations video which goes loosly over the battery charging at minute 3:10.
It’s very basic. Accumilating amp hour statistics and auto shutoff at 10mA. Hopefully they will extend that in firmware at some point.
Looks great! Might have to get one of these!
I just bought one - i've only got an ancient one from Rapid - uses dial meters to show the voltages :D
@@ukmk3supra hope you like it
Also, thanks Dave on the reminder about the OVP. My RDtech for the bench supplies my headphone amp. It's input bulk cap is a 16V 400uF. That little PSU will happily with a spin of a knob put out 50V. BANG goes that cap inside my headphone amp case.... and anything else similarly limited on that rail which may NOT be in a case. I should set it to 16V as a secondary protection against "Whooopsies". If I need more it will remind me to clear off the other devices from the rail first.
Nice video, This help tip me over into buying a 6012 and 6018, which have the same noise levels as the 6006 (at the same current level) the noise only rises after that with 160mv p-p at 14vdc 10a, and increases rather linearly.
You can disassemble it, as the banana posts while soldered have cutouts in the front panel, so they can just pull out of the front panel with out desoldering.
thank you for your support , you also can check RD6006P and RD6012P , it is better for ripple
The voltage graph display mode is obviously for charging batteries and tracking their charge progress!
If you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale. This is useful for monitoring the current draw on your prototype devices, so you can easily determine what kind of power pack and fuse you can get away with.
I was considering buying one of these from Banggood where it was $10 cheaper than this AliExpress price, but I don’t have a high voltage DC power supply that could make full use of this thing’s output, and to buy a power supply would double the overall price. I did get one of those tiny little bench power supplies and have it connected to a big 24 volt power supply, and it works surprisingly well with excellent accuracy.
If you require a PSU for projects such as Arduino, Raspberry Pi, USB circuits, maybe TTL circuits, this is a perfect power supply. All you need is a spare laptop charger in your junk box powering it. Oh the arrangement can then be used for charging different Lithium, NiCad batteries too.
If you need PSU for audio circuits, telecom circuits then this unit is not for you. You need linear not switched PSUs.
Thinking out loudly, why will a C-L-C filter at the output ( the C values in pF, and L in micro Henries) not filter the output noise?
That 24V power supply I have running that little lab power supply (the Ruideng DP50V5A special from Banggood) is an old telecom transformer with various taps so in that case it is linear. But I don't have anything that can put 60 or 70 volts to this lab power supply. I wouldn't be using it for any sort of serious audio circuits. It would just be for tinkering with circuits on the bench, with a bit more features than the tiny one.
Yeah, their extra fan in the case that always runs is a Ruideng specialty. Same for the older, smaller cases. I just made a fan duct for the load-controlled fan on the device to make that one suck the air into the case.
Thanks. I actually look into these. Have a wish to make flat lab power supply for non-exorbitant price for my home DIY needs and this controller seems perfect for that.
Incredibly deceiving title when you factor in the price of the case and actual power supply. It's really a $160 power supply. I've seen some actual $50-$60 bench power supplies for sale, would love to see a video on one of those.
my thoughts exactly. Value is being way over-egged.
Agree. Think this is only the second of Dave's videos I've ever thumbed down (and I've watched them all over the years.)
Just came across as one long advert for a an overpriced pile of junk.
A brand new Tenmar unit would better this in every area, and cost less.
I mean, it isn't too hard to find a working pc power supply for cheap or even free, and the case you could make it yourself with any metal box, I made mine with a scrap sound amplifier I found in a dumpster. You only need to be creative.
@@hasenlamano ....and have nothing better to do
@@hasenlamano But then you'd only get a maximum of 11V output (probably a lot less), high current but only a few volts. I've seen 30V 3A complete bench supplies for sale for $50. This is an UP TO 360W power supply CONTROLLER for $50, that's what I meant.
Yes please make a video fixing the noise, my bet is the MOSFET or Diode needs a ferrite bead slipping over it.
And a common mode inductor on the output.
I'll be impressed if it can be included inside the case.
For the first time I have something before EEVBLOG. I'm quite happy with mine. The recommended power supply is taking ages to ship though.
Must be a supply issue, since the chassis and PSU are multi-purpose, they probably have more of them in stock. I ordered mine all at the same time shortly after this video posted, but though I got the chassis and power supply, in December, I only got my RD6006 a few days ago.
So far though, I'm enjoying mine. Used the graph setting to record current changes as I was testing a forced-feedback joystick (didn't come with it's power adapter). Very handy for testing your prototype device so you can see what kind of power supply and fuse you can get away with in practical usage.
Depends where you order and where you live.....I got mine in 6 days.
@@muppetpaster How do you like it? I've been enjoying the graph and memory recall functions.
The back to the future jokes always get me. Nice video man
Battery wasn't included for shipping reasons.
Yep, likely.
Does it have a Clock or something why do it need a coin cell battery
@@Rainbow__cookie yes, it has a realtime-clock, as you can see on the top of the display.
@@NerdyNEET Maybe? Most likely.
Now you know why the wifi module comes in at 4$.
The drop in efficiency at 4A is when the fan turns on - it is current controlled, not temperature controlled
It's definitely temperature controlled. You can heat up the unit to get it to turn on
it was also control by temperature too
@@sdgelectronics yes...
I have this exact same - from 8-1-2020 - exact same settings, both USB and WIFI, all works just fine. The "virus" is concerned, it has NO VIRUS in the software, at least not when I scanned it with MS-Antivirus and AVG + some other scanning softwares, found 0 viruses! For the money it is a great value! It isn't for everyone - like the noise problems, but for most people this shouldn't cause any problems. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Dave!
My uncle Bob thought it was bloody brilliant, so i wrote my mom about it. Gotta tell you, nothing to sneeze at, remarkable value. 😁
Was that fuseholder damaged in the meanwell PSU ?. It looked like one of the legs was splayed open.
this is great, i can cross this one off the birthday list. noise is a Ham's worst enemy. thanks for the review, as always awesome job mate.
I think he addressed the noise issue in the next video.
Great video and I appreciate the effort you put into this.
It's been mentioned once already, but I thought I'd bump the observation: The fuse clip in the 48v supply needs some attention. It's noticeably bent and may prove to be an imminent failure point.
Yep, I noticed that and pushed it in properly.
keep reviewing things like this Chinese stuff is quite interesting
Amazing. I paid $200 10 years ago for a USED 60V 10A B&K lab supply that is rack mount and makes me take a deep breath and grunt when I have to move it. I just love the size and price of hobby-grade electronics gear these days. From sig gens, to VNA's, to scopes, to power supplies, I find myself slowly shifting from using my boat anchor HP gear to this cheap, small stuff for anything that doesn't require max precision. And very little ever does.
This is one off the best video i ever seen on youtube,about elektronik! Must see if you by this.
🤔
I'm not sure this thing is worth getting over the venerable KA3005 Korad(or rebrand) power supply, unless you already have a bulky DC supply itching for a front panel, but even then, korads, for around the same price($100-150 for everything) are fully linear power supplies.
RND 320-KA3005P i bought this one Just a Rebrand for 86,90 from germany it does everything it needs to do and even with charging battery cells it works great also software control through Windows/Linux i was thinking about this power supply aswell but went for the germany one because of warranty faster shipping and it getting Good reviews even with abusing it with big motors using startup power of over 100 watts its keeps going like a champ
@@Pixelchaos I bought the same RND model as well! Can confirm, identical to korad and works just as well.
The fan is a bit wonky... but at least it's temperature-controlled.
I just bought the RND branded KA3305P for €144 ex VAT free shipping.
So that's the 2 channel Programmable one (+5v output).
So If you're in the market for a dual programmable power supply this is for sure a cheaper alternative that is linear as well.
6018 model does 18A@60V. That's not even remotely comparable to 5A@30v of your Korad.
Dave: I use the power supply to Power the power supply
whats' your feeling?
@@rdtech9153 what....???
Exactly. While none if them are really power supplies, I expect something labeled as one to use mains power.
Haha it says it all about modern technology
Chinese manufacturing tends to use a lot of modular components.
You are awesome, Dave. Men like you should live forever. Then we would have videos from you forever. I guess we would all have to live forever. I'm up for that. Anyone? ;-) Thank You for your spirited delivery and "bottomless" knowledge.
Love the daydreaming 🙂 it is a necessary step in first time assemblies.
I've always wondered why these things done exist that just plug up to an atx power supply. They are ubiquitous, and provide multiple voltages.
An ATX power supply is limited to 12V output, and with a 2.5V overhead, the RD6006 would only output a maximum of 9.5V. It can still be done, but it's more practical to just take a fuse, a salvaged transformer, a bridge rectifier, and a few electrolytic capacitors to just rig up your own supply if you don't want to buy theirs.
There are plenty of cheap interfaces on eBay that connect to a 20-24 pin ATX connector with bannana-screw terminals and a power switch. The concept is as simple as can be, since to turn an ATX supply on, all you need to do is connect a switch between pin 14 and any of the ground pins. I've been doing that for years with old AT supplies.
15:44...close, but no cigar...I know, you're trying to keep it clean, but it only works proper if you use the right words for Focusing...AvE isn't wrong...LOL
WreckDiver99
FOCUS YOU FACK
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 I'm german. But I catch myself often also use "Fooocus you Faack" when my camera doesn't want to.
But focus you bastard is the UK style of saying it. :D
There is always some fokker that will remind us.
@@gorillaau Keep your Richard in the Clamping device!
@@WreckDiver99 Do not insert your thomas in the current clamp while in operation.
@15:43 😂 his voice reminds me of the tucker character from “There’s Something About Mary”
Great in-depth review 👍🏽
love your videos, you make learning things about electronics entertaining
Is it radiating switching noise too? Maybe you could do a video on how to reduce that high freq ringing by adding an RC snubber circuit.
I'll bet that plastic front panel is not shielded. And if it is shielded, it appears there is no EMI gasket to bond it to the case.
@@steverobbins4872 In China, the only shielding that name worthy is the shielding of their people against 'bad' political ideas.
18:00 looks like that fuse is barely in there and would fall out as soon as you shake it.
Good eye! lol, that one needs some help.
They actually have a good grip on the fuse. Needs a bit of force to pull them out. More than suitable for something subject to vibration. Have used them for years with no issues.
@@DaveMcLaughlin There are always outliers.
don't shake your power supply?
Nope,it may look like it but it is in there really snug.
19:03 If it's bolted to the enclosure, I think the screws would provide enough contact for grounding, might not need to scrape the paint, but definitely would test it in diode mode with a meter.
Cheers mate, I've seen a few of your videos before and have glanced over the CZcams recommendations because I didn't wasn't in the mood to think in depth. The few videos I watched tonight were very interesting and I look forward to your more recent and upcoming videos. I see a 2kw PSU video is "up next", _ctrl+click_ that into a new tab for later.
Was waiting for you to review it before buying it.
I'll get one and see if I can improve that ripple and if it works I have a nice case and some toroidal transfomers that can easily hold 2 of those units.
15:43 Having an AvE moment I see :D
the aussie version
Exactly my thought.
Really nice observation ;)
@@michalveselenyi3801 sometimes shouting at the camera - on camera - works, even makes it comical to some.
Focus you FAK!
The lab bench psu didn't kill himself
The communications for these is MODBUS, address 01. I will write my own software interface when i have time. GREAT review! thank you, Sir!
Oh they have published the protocol? But MODBUS… Coils and registers, gak! There is PyModbus for python open source.
Don't know if they fixed it but we had problems with Win's auto install version of the CH340 driver a couple years back. The official one works perfect.
"Idiot marketing protection mode"
I'm sensing a story behind that, Dave. How expensive was the damage, & was he punished for his crime?
They NEVER get punished for their crimes.
@@EEVblog? Committing crimes is kinda the job description. They always have the 3 martini lunch for plausible deniability defense.
My dad tells how he stopped this kind of thing. Leave a handful of capacitors that have been on the megger lying around the bench.
@@salerio61 That's hilarious :) .
@@EEVblog SO TRUE. IDIOTS, as soon as the project drops, they have "nothing to do with it" .... could be worse than Dilbert jokes.
Wouldn't it be advantageous to mount the MeanWell supply on standoffs, so the air can flow under it? The whole bottom of it is a heatsink.
Without proper forced airflow between the PSU and case walls, that might be worse; if the thermal connection between MeanWell and outer case is good enough and there can be better airflow at the outside of the case, the outer case might work better as the heatsink (extension). In fact, IIRC, a bit similar MeanWell model that I have actually instructs about how one side can be screwed directly to the outer case (or to a proper heatsink) for heatsink purposes.
@@markkuhassinen5745 I think the rear fan in the case would be enough forced airflow to the MeanWell. I don't like the idea of using powder painted thin steel plate as a heatsink.
@@mrnmrn1 That certainly can work, especially if one adds some airflow guidance so more air flows through the narrower gap, as typically standoffs that are rigid enough are only around 5mm, maybe up to 8mm. If the other side has all the rest of free space, most of the airflow will go that easier path. But having only standoffs and a backside fan might leave it better to attach directly the case. Difficult to estimate, though. Also the PSU's own fan my affect the airflow, for better or worse.
That particular model doesn't state about the attachment to the sides like the documentation on the model I have, but its insides looks similarly arranged. The hottest parts are attached to the sides (although annoyingly so that the hottest spots' metal is set deeper, so can not get good contact on those as easily, unless the heatsink is small enough), so it might be more beneficial to squeeze some proper heatsinks against the sides and direct air flow through those. There is enough space for such arrangement in that case.
Obviously, many choices, but the PSU seems to be rated to work even "as is" without additional arrangements, as long as its own fan gets proper flow and is not heated by other sources.
One of the spring clips on the ceramic fuse of that RSP-320 looks real average ay. Great video tho!
I've ordered the components also , it it on it's way, 2 are in the destination country and 1 (the PSU) is in a airplane , so i think i can build it soon, ordered the recommended power supply so al should be well.
4:05 "whhhyyyyyy?" made me laugh
Doesn't seem worth it once you factor in the power source, case, etc. You can get the Korad PSU for around $100, and it's ready to plug into the wall.
This one?
czcams.com/video/Fya-4mjV4N4/video.html
That one has less range though.
But yeah, half the point of these is to be able to salvage stuff you already have.
But the corad is a linear suply, so almost no swiching noise
Illuminator ! not that one
You pointed to 7+yrs old video. Since then Korad improved PCB design and replaced noisy fan too . I have 2 of them, one is “P” other one is “D” series and I can tell it is really Bang for the buck.
PS”Read description at linked video”
Not a 300W model ...
Looks like RD6006 is a hot topic on CZcams right now. Multiple CZcamsrs made videos about it and got into my feed even though I'm not watching them and haven't watched this video at that point.
Very nice digital scopes and Rohde & Schwarz Power Supply! Something one would purchase without much hesitation.
so I need a power supply to power my power supply?
Yes, and when you're done you will have a nice power supply to power other power supplies.
@@carlosteixeira4691 Have you heard of the law of conservation of energy?
Even Homer Simpson obeys the laws of thermodynamics!
If I supply my power supply with the output of its power supply, will I have infinite power?
@@natecontarino1748 lol
No Wucka’s!! Bobby Dazzler!! Your gonna need another video on Aussie Colloquialism for our International friends 😂
Dave, you should do a video on adding some output filtering to this.
Hello! Excellent Vid! Came to comment that the 2x4 female terminal on the back end looks exactly like one designed to fit an NRF24L01 Wifi module! Looks like the pins match up as well as the fact it runs on 3.3v as seen in the vid. I hope this helps!
How long ago did you buy this? It's over $200.00 now.
2 fuses, must send this to weller
Ah, but do they actually blow, or are they like Apple iFuses, as found in burnt out MacBooks?
I can certainly see some uses for this but frankly a bench power supply is one of my most valued tools and I really can't see going cheap on it. The last thing you need when troubleshooting are problems induced by noisy power. I notice you have a pretty good one also. 4 tools I suggest guys pay a little more and get a quality product are soldering irons, power supplies, scope and a good meter. Open up say a Tektronix bench power supply and do a side by side.
I have a mean well beast brick. 48V 10A It's fan runs constantly from power on. However... if you put it under duress the fan has a LOT more to go. At idle it's at minimum. I remember getting it really going using an RDTech module to charge a high charge rate Lipo at 12.6V 20A. It didn't take long for the fan noise to get much, much worse from both the PSU and the DC Brick.
On the other end, I use an RDTech to manage a 12V solar feed for bench use. It's 5Amp and I never use half that, so I just cut it's fan lead with a pair of cutters and decided to install a thermal cut in later... it's still termporarilly fixed.
So you need a power supply for the power supply?? This is neat and affordable, but its only half a power supply
Yeah, but it's the more complicated part of the power supply. All you need is a power brick, which is pretty cheap and simple.
Yes, but it does all the fancy hard stuff. You can convert literally any DC power source into a lab PSU
All you need is a transformer, bridge rectifier and some caps.
You can easily recycle all those parts from a single audio amplifier.
@@EEVblog Agree, but its still only HALF a power supply
@@ElecDashTronDotOrg Not everyone needs to power this from AC mains. Some people may want to power it from batteries, or some existing 48V power source. Is your use-case the ONLY use-case for everyone?
Can we call a product “power supply” which doesn’t power from the ac mains?
What is the difference between power supply vs. dc to dc converter?
It is just a buck converter with a display, so it won't boost.
power supply contains DC-DC power supply
The separate case design is a nice feature in order to add the desired amount of weight to increase quality :D
I have brought one and very pleased and the software works thanks Dave have been watching you for years and buy on your recommendation
I've been enjoying mine as well. As far as the software goes, there's other software out there from more "reputable" vendors that also has issue if you try to install it with the anti-virus running, and will recommend that you disable the AV before installing. It may well be nothing to worry about, but given that it's from China, I'd still use an isolated PC until one can determine that nothing untowards is going on.
well that ain't no proper power supply. Its just a fancy regulator unless you can plug it into the wall ;)
I think the idea is that you can just use it with whatever large wall-wart you have lying around. Or gang multiple RD6006 units together with a large DC supply in a single chassis to make a multi-output regulated power supply.
Ordered it more than 20 days ago :( still in transit ...
I got mine DHL'd, I was impatient.
35 days for me....
It takes 60+ days for stuff to get here over the normal mail
I got the chassis and power supply within a couple weeks (ordered shortly after this video was posted). The RD6006 just arrived a few days ago. Probably a supply issue. The power supply and chassis can be used for other projects, so they probably have more of them in stock.
@@gglovato where is "here"?
Looks good, might order one.
you can order on to play
Thanks for this Dave
hope you like that
i have a 100v 50v center tap calling for this thing out of a 200W Kenwood receiver
Ad a 6A fuse, a bridge rectifier, and a few electrolytic caps, and you've got yourself a power supply for it.
3:03 omg he just ripped it off :( slower = better
lol I thought the same! Need to do it slowly to get that satisfaction.
The white thingy on the heatsink is a thermal switch (klixon) that cuts mains power if the heatsink gets too hot. The regulation for the fan is done elsewhere.
Cheap power supplies is buying used laptop chargers! Might only be at 19v but I guess you can put two in series if you need the voltage.
I think there are lots better choices than this. Too many useless features and not enough basic function. By the time you have this configured to provide 360W output you'd be into it for $200, and you'd still have all that noise. There is a thing on eBay called the Dr.Meter triple Variable linear DC power supply that provides 0-30V@5A + 0-30V@5A + 5V@3A. You can series the adjustable outputs for 0-60V@5A or parallel them for 0-30V@10A. That's a total of 315W. A buddy of mine bought one ($200) and it gets the job done. Construction was not perfect, but we spent about an hour rectifying things to our satisfaction. Less time than it would take to fully configure one of these switchmode things in a nice case and input power for 360W out. Far more real life versatility too. They can keep their RD6006 as far as I'm concerned.
Sure, each to their own.
Battery charging in bench lab power supply? Chinese style ;D
Im surprised they didn't build in a flashlight with dedicated SOS mode.
Charging most chemistries is just CC/CV (with a cutoff after minimal charging current is reached if you want to be fancy), so 99% of bench PSUs are perfectly fine for that. Given how many people blew up their earlier models by connecting the battery the wrong way around or without proper voltage set, I'm willing to bet the battery terminal just has a built in diode (possibly with it's voltage drop compensated)
@@MikrySoft Or perhaps it has a dedicated NiMH charging circuit which is way different than CC/CV you mentioned.
*snort*
@@ataria5609 May as well throw in a tranny tester too.
This thing is quite a bargain! Even with the noise issue and lack of documentation, for a general purpose variable PSU can't beat that. Crazy they can make stuff so cheap. I would not say they spared no expense but it still looks really good from my untrained eye. I still have 3 of the smaller ones I bought a while back, been meaning to build a triple output power supply and never got around to it.
thank you so much for your review . for Ripple , it is just test way problem , we use our way to test and data is fit our data sheet
I bought this like 3 weeks ago to build exactly a portable power supply , it's a small world
Those display colors are AWFUL! Reminds me of one of the original PC 'color' graphics modes!
Camera artifact...
@@CaptainDangeax
I suspect he was referring to the purple and cyan. Default mode for CGA was purple, cyan, white (or light grey) and black.
Simplifying the colour scheme saves memory. and simplifies design. What colours would you have? I'm also into retro computing, so I don't mind the CGA colour pallet.
So it's not ACTUALLY a power supply - it's a REGULATOR.
it is DC-DC power supply
ACTUALLY the power supply is a big spinning lump of metal in a power station
@@tomkennaugh ACTUALLY - the power supply is God.
@@gregsullivan7408 ACTUALLY nuclear fusion, but I'm open to new ideas :P
Uranium is an interesting case since it is thought to be formed in a supernova. Definitely fusion but not the typical direct release of energy from fusion as in the sun.
36:04 My plan for a DIY hack-together is an old desktop PSU and I'll attach a boost converter board for instances I need more than 24V on my table. --Literally, I built a table, so far just with outlets and a couple switches, but I plan to incorporate the DIY lab bench underneath and "pipe" the power right onto the main work surface with banana plugs.
Right now it's basically a soldering station and I've got a hot glue gun holster, but I plan to expand. Modular designs are very desirable to me, I want to ultimately plumb it with exhaust, propane, and an air line hooked to a compressor in another room, all with quick connect fittings so I can hook up multiple benches with perhaps 6ft hoses so I can arrange them in a garage, maybe with casters for easy moving and a welding bench - this is getting out of hand.
That's terrible Muriel hahahha, Dave, so glad I saw this video, I've been needing a 'basic' benchtop for a while, I'm not doing any hardcore electronics like you are so having input noise is actually a good thing, ensures my circuits can handle it properly. Off to get one of these bad boys and the Meanwell right meow. Cheers! Appreciate it.