Hey guys, thank you for checking out this latest video for this shop build. This is perhaps one of my most favorite push sticks to ever use in my shop. Having the thinner version now will make it even safer. I wanted to also say that if you choose not to throw this away, you can cut away the chewed up bottom and re-laminate with a brand new board if you don’t want to remake the whole thing over again. Take care and BOOM!
I have made these for years. One day I decided to use the same design handle on a handsaw and make my own ti put on the block which is very comfortable to use and very easy to control. Awesome job on this video!
Great ideas. I also "drank the Kool-Aid" and spent a lot of money on 2 grrrrrippers, and a couple of others. I almost never use them because they're too fiddly to set up each time. thanks.
Make them a little thick and only set your saw blade 1/8 inch above the workpiece. When you have cut it up to the point you are thinking about throwing it away, run it over the jointer a few times and make it new again.
When I started woodworking 3 years ago, I tried using the stick that came with the saw and immediately threw it away. I've pretty much just been using the John Heisz push stick since then. Might have to give this version a shot!
I tend to shy away from anything with an upright handle that can push directly against the palm of my hand. I had a piece of wood kick back one time - in turn it forced the push block into my hand with a tremendous force. Nothing broken and I still have my hand but it was stiff for a week. Since then I prefer to use a block that I hold from the sides. In the event of a kickback the block can fly out of my hand without breaking any fingers or slamming against the palm of my hand and potentially damaging my wrist. I was lucky that time and take every precaution since. All I can say is think about your design and where your hand comes in contact with the block - never make finger holes in your blocks - in a tenth of a second something like that can potentially break a few fingers or worse.. Rip them off your hand!
Now that my bandsaw is tuned up it would be easier just to cut the bottom off using the bandsaw and then glue another piece on. I didn’t have that before
Why not make the chewed-up bottoms interchangeable so you don't have to remake the nice handles again and again? Doing that does not change control and it puts the fingers even a little bit farther away from the blade.
You could do that but you would need to figure out a way to attach it and keep it attached without the use of metal fasteners just in case your blade comes in contact with the joint. A sliding dovetail possibly with a stop dado might do the trick but it is something to think about. You could theoretically run the chewed up piece through the bandsaw and cut it completely off and then make you another bottom piece while still keeping the upper piece intact.
@@rhwoodshop What I use is a block of material with the same dimensions as the bottom of the push base. It's thick enough so that the countersunk screws that hold it to the base are above the cuts that are made in the "chewable" portion. Of course, you have to take care not to raise the blade more than a half-inch above the material that is being cut so as not to run into the screws that are sunk 3/4-inches into the sacrificial bottom.
Well the problem is with the handle attached you can’t run it through the planer unless you cut the handle off. So it’s better to run the whole thing through a bandsaw and cut the bottom off and replace that
I don’t know if you still check the comments, since this is two years old, but my question is do you think it works just as good without anything to grip the bottom?
Awsome video Drew. One question: Do you think setting the handles on a slite angle to apply side force towards the fence would help prevent binding and/or kickback when sawing.
It’s possible that that would help a little bit too, yes. The catch that goes along the backside of the push block taking up the entire width of the block helps to keep it pretty square since most catches are a very small piece that’s only meant to grab the wood, but anything that you can do to help it along I imagine would help out too.
When the push block gets to the end of its useful life, why not just use the jointer to take down the raggedy bottom then relain ate a new piece to the bottom.
This time since I have upgraded the handle, I plan on just running the bottom through my bandsaw and cutting off the old chewed up area and replacing it with another
No but if you make the handle like my 45° handle with the holes, I would make sure that the grain is running in the same direction as the handle so it is less likely to break under pressure. If you intend to use a dowel, you won’t have this problem
Hey guys, thank you for checking out this latest video for this shop build. This is perhaps one of my most favorite push sticks to ever use in my shop. Having the thinner version now will make it even safer. I wanted to also say that if you choose not to throw this away, you can cut away the chewed up bottom and re-laminate with a brand new board if you don’t want to remake the whole thing over again. Take care and BOOM!
Thank you for that. I was going to ask about salvaging the old push block. Great video. Thanks!!!
I like the idea of push pads instead of push sticks. Very handy in certain situations!
Yes sir they are and they would be good use on the jointer as well. Adhere a high grit sandpaper to the bottom for extra gripping pressure
I have made these for years. One day I decided to use the same design handle on a handsaw and make my own ti put on the block which is very comfortable to use and very easy to control. Awesome job on this video!
Sounds very cool. Thanks for the comment I really appreciate it.
I like the thicker beefier version you’ve made compared to others I’ve seen made by other YT folks. BOOOM!
Thanks a lot Terry I’m glad you really like it. It’s certainly a much safer version in my opinion.
Great push block. Thank you sir.
Thank you for the comment Tim I’m glad you like it
Awesome push blocks Drew! Can't wait to make a pair for myself! Thanks
Awesome. I would like to see them when you are done. Thank You!!!
I think that you could fix the damage ones. I will cut the uneven bottom and glue another scrap block, and “Boom” more sustainable.
Great job
Classy! Love it and the demo. Thank you a lot.
Thank You!!! They are my favorite kind. No thinking or prep.
Great idea / project! I will have to make a couple for my shop. Thanks again
You will like them JB. Thanks for watching
Awesome! I really like the idea of a wide one. I don’t know why I don’t have one of those. But I’ll make one now! Great video!
Thanks a lot James I appreciate that. You’ll like the wide one for sure
King's Fine Woodworking ahmmmmm James??
Sweet design!
Thanks Ryan I appreciate that. Are you going to make one for yourself?
Awesome stuff Drew! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thank you Fred. I really appreciate it. So glad you liked it. You rock dude!
Really love that combination square styled handle. Might get carried away profiling and checking mine.
Great ideas. I also "drank the Kool-Aid" and spent a lot of money on 2 grrrrrippers, and a couple of others. I almost never use them because they're too fiddly to set up each time. thanks.
Yup no thinking necessary with these. Grab and go
hi Drew, shared.👍💯👏👏👏👏👏❤️
Thank You!!!
Great idea Drew. I have the Grrriper and sometimes the "set-up" takes longer than the cuts.
Yeah I have cut into my grippers too many times because I simply forget to set them up. No thinking on these.
@@rhwoodshop AMEN to that.
Love it!!! I might make one tomorrow too. I also need to make one of those snazzy end screen templates.
So glad you liked it bro. I’m very happy with them. Oh yeah the end screen is nice to have too.
Good idea...was brought over from James king
Glad to have you aboard. James is a really good buddy of mine. He’s actually been a subscriber mine since I first started 6 years ago. Great guy!
Make them a little thick and only set your saw blade 1/8 inch above the workpiece. When you have cut it up to the point you are thinking about throwing it away, run it over the jointer a few times and make it new again.
Excellent
Great video, thank you. Seems like you’re not making videos anymore,that’s to bad..
When I started woodworking 3 years ago, I tried using the stick that came with the saw and immediately threw it away. I've pretty much just been using the John Heisz push stick since then. Might have to give this version a shot!
You just might fall in love. 😝 🤣
I tend to shy away from anything with an upright handle that can push directly against the palm of my hand.
I had a piece of wood kick back one time - in turn it forced the push block into my hand with a tremendous force.
Nothing broken and I still have my hand but it was stiff for a week.
Since then I prefer to use a block that I hold from the sides.
In the event of a kickback the block can fly out of my hand without breaking any fingers or slamming against the palm of my hand and potentially damaging my wrist.
I was lucky that time and take every precaution since.
All I can say is think about your design and where your hand comes in contact with the block - never make finger holes in your blocks - in a tenth of a second something like that can potentially break a few fingers or worse.. Rip them off your hand!
Love it man.. Defanatly be building a couple to have on hand.....
Awesome! Get to it man. Boom!
Why not smooth the bottom of the old one and redo it for second at the bandsaw.
Now that I have my bandsaw tuned up as you can see in the video,
Why not hand plane the worn one to flatten the bottom and then glue another piece on it the bottom so it can still be used?
Now that my bandsaw is tuned up it would be easier just to cut the bottom off using the bandsaw and then glue another piece on. I didn’t have that before
@@rhwoodshop I like it! That would be faster and could be a lot less work to get it back into working order.
Those are push sticks, with style!
Yes sir, and they work fantastic
Why not make the chewed-up bottoms interchangeable so you don't have to remake the nice handles again and again? Doing that does not change control and it puts the fingers even a little bit farther away from the blade.
You could do that but you would need to figure out a way to attach it and keep it attached without the use of metal fasteners just in case your blade comes in contact with the joint. A sliding dovetail possibly with a stop dado might do the trick but it is something to think about. You could theoretically run the chewed up piece through the bandsaw and cut it completely off and then make you another bottom piece while still keeping the upper piece intact.
@@rhwoodshop What I use is a block of material with the same dimensions as the bottom of the push base. It's thick enough so that the countersunk screws that hold it to the base are above the cuts that are made in the "chewable" portion. Of course, you have to take care not to raise the blade more than a half-inch above the material that is being cut so as not to run into the screws that are sunk 3/4-inches into the sacrificial bottom.
No need to throw it away, just run it through a planer and add more wood to the bottom
Well the problem is with the handle attached you can’t run it through the planer unless you cut the handle off. So it’s better to run the whole thing through a bandsaw and cut the bottom off and replace that
😂😂Woodworkers do Hate scrapping wood...
Very nice but 1 question. instead of throwing the used stick away why not just clean the bottom up and laminate another board over it?
Now that I have my bandsaw tuned up, that’s what I plan to do. Cut the bottom off and then re-laminate
I don’t know if you still check the comments, since this is two years old, but my question is do you think it works just as good without anything to grip the bottom?
Awsome video Drew. One question: Do you think setting the handles on a slite angle to apply side force towards the fence would help prevent binding and/or kickback when sawing.
It’s possible that that would help a little bit too, yes. The catch that goes along the backside of the push block taking up the entire width of the block helps to keep it pretty square since most catches are a very small piece that’s only meant to grab the wood, but anything that you can do to help it along I imagine would help out too.
When the push block gets to the end of its useful life, why not just use the jointer to take down the raggedy bottom then relain ate a new piece to the bottom.
I get questioned on this a lot but I actually now have my bandsaw tuned up to where I can run it through that and cut off the bottom
on your old one can,t you plane it down and reglue another piece on.
Since I now have my bandsaw tuned up, I can cut off the bottom and glue on a new one., Yes
Just dado a stop into your old pusher and get a few mores miles out of it. Maybe run it thru the jointer a few times first.
This time since I have upgraded the handle, I plan on just running the bottom through my bandsaw and cutting off the old chewed up area and replacing it with another
@@rhwoodshop That works too.
Does it matter if it is a soft wood? Like pine? Or should it be a hard wood?
No but if you make the handle like my 45° handle with the holes, I would make sure that the grain is running in the same direction as the handle so it is less likely to break under pressure. If you intend to use a dowel, you won’t have this problem
What is a wet dry vacuum?
At 3:48 did you make a crosscut with a miter and the board against the fence?
Yup it was a complete push through clamped tightly against the gauge. It was not brought backward like you would need with a gauge block.
Hi, is your website down link not working. Thanks
Anyone have an idea on what happened with the website?
Ummm… why not cut the bottom off the wrecked one on the bandsaw and glue on a new sacrificial base.
Woah, that cut at 3:46 is just asking for a kickback.
Really odd choice of operation.
I agree, I had to go back a see if I was seeing that right.
why throw it away when we can never have enough mulch
I will try to do it with woodglut plans.
I'm late to the party, but can you change the stopper on the blocks?? Wouldn't the stoppers run down before the blocks itself?
So why do you have the Yellows commercial made Push Block and your using it in the making of your wood push sticks?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣