Hose Flushing Methods 2020 Tohatsu 9.9, 15, 20HP Outboards - The Correct Way
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- čas přidán 19. 10. 2020
- Method according to Tohatsu‘s recommendations
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With REAIBLE INFO FROM TOHATSU ITS A MANS JOB !👍👍👍
instaBlaster.
Thanks for sharing what you found out!
Great video, thanks for showing!
I was sooo happy to find this video. I did a "hot" flush because I thought that was the right thing to do. I found nothing in the instructions to say otherwise. then I read and was told never run the engine with the hose connected to the port. I was all worried I had destroyed my ew engine, although it has run fine since. As such, I did quit doing hot flushes. Now at least I know the engineers say it OK.
I’m with you. And hearing directly from the engineer gave me a lot of assurance besides the fact that I see water flowing out of everywhere that tell me that it can’t be overheating The impeller. The engine is simply idling.
I’ve been doing this for about a year now and I’m getting ready to change the impeller so I will post a video on how everything looks in there to give us a definitive answer. 👍🏻
@@commonsensesolutions6662 I also called them and they did not have an immediate answer. the guy went and consulted wit the engineers then they hooked one up to the port there and called back and said it is OK to run the engine with it hooked to the port at idle speed.
@@randyvining8101 Awesome!! Thanks for sharing that!
what you shouldn't do is engage the gears when using the hose flush. The prop should always be immersed in water when engaging forward or reverse.
Oh man… you just saved me A$$. I was just about to run it with the hose attachment… I brought out the “ear muff” water attachment instead. Mine is fresh water only but, I fire it up with non ethanol fuel every month as it’s only used in July and august.
Sweet sound!
Thanks for the video. My boat lives in the harbour and cant get to fresh water supply so i have to run my outboard every week for at least 10 minutes to flush out the old salt water. i prefer your methods by far as i have to change my thermostat more oftern
Good strategy! There are some salt flushing kids I’ve seen where you hook it to a hose and add a desalination liquid to a bottle feeder that might be good to do every once in a while. Not sure how environmentally friendly the solution is since it would be discharged into the Harbour but perhaps worth a look. Might help extend the life of the thermostat a bit. Is it really pitted when you change it?
@@commonsensesolutions6662 I change it every yearly service to be safe. My friend didn't and had to be towed back by the lifeboat with a seized engine. I fish up to 15 miles off shore and need to be on top of faults before they develop. The thermostat isn't in bad condition when I change it and could be used again but like impellers, once you have gone as far as inspecting it you may as well change it. :0)
@@KitsFishing Totally agree! Thanks again for watching 👍🏻
Thank you.
Thanks Very Much Great Video
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Could you share the attachment you mentioned? Having a hard time screwing in the hose without it getting all twisted up
Perfect timing! I was just flushing the motor out a few hours ago with that and remembered that I needed to post that up thanks for the reminder!
Expert Gardener Heavy-Duty Kink Free Hose Connector www.walmart.com/ip/371461613
Did you make a vid of the impeller swap out? I don't see one.
That will be the next video. Hoping to get some time to do that very soon.
I need a cavitation plate like yours
It seems like this one has the least resistance of the ones in this size range. If you try a different one, please let me know how it performs
Like others, I'm really interested in this issue. Have you checked your impeller yet? If so, what is your conclusion? Thanks. Cheers,
Hi! I just tore it down and replaced it the other day the video should be up very soon.
I got a new Tohatsu 2 stroke 15hp and in the manual they say to cover the two water intakes with tape while running the hose. Not really sure why i would need to do this and put duck tape on a brand new outboard.
Anyone has insight on this?
A 2 stroke?
All I can say is that if the design is the same as the newer four stroke versions then based on my findings it would be unnecessary if hose flushing at idle. Check out my other video that shows me taking it all apart after I was flushing it with a hose for over a year and everything was perfectly fine. Again, mine is a 4 stroke. Good luck!
Did you have a chance to change the impeller and see if it is ok?
Good timing! August will be the one year mark so I’ll order the parts and get on it. I’ll post a video of the results. I’m also curious 👍🏻
Nice to know what model boat and speed are you getting out of that 20 hp and is the jack plate helping any?
Jack plate helps for sure. I have the motor raised up to where the plate is perfectly even with the bottom of the boat. It was slower when above or below this position. People have different opinions on the optimal position but this always seems to work best on all my boats.
Thanks for this video, I have the 2021 Mercury 20 EFI which is the Tohatsu 20 just marketed as Merc. I was wondering how safe and effective the hot flush with the hose attached really is. I have been cold flushing for 10 minutes and then going straight to the bucket method for another 10 minute hot flush at idle. still not sure if I trust running the engine with out the lower leg submerged.. lol I should probably trust the engineers I guess.
Had it for about a year so I’ll be taking it apart soon to see what’s happening in there to answer the question. I have a whale tail on mine so I’d have to get a huge bucket to submerge the lower into... the hose makes it so easy. I run in salt water all the time so the warm flush is something I really believe in to get past the thermostat. We shall see...👍🏻
@@commonsensesolutions6662 Looking forward to hearing / seeing more on this.
@@commonsensesolutions6662 Just wondering what your thoughts are on the hydrofoil you have installed on your motor? I'm reluctant to drill holes in my new outboard unless the trade off is really worth it. Cheers.
@@thestujames This is the first time I have used one I had not had the need for one before. My other jon boats had the standard flat squared off fronts, this one has the modified V. I have never had one of these types of boats but the first thing I noticed is that the front rode very high in the water and even when adjusting the motor tilt it wasn’t enough to bring it down to my satisfaction so that is why I put on the hydrofoil because it seem to lift the back of the boat up a little more out of the water when on plane which brought the front down to where it seems to ride normally for my tastes. If it wasn’t for that need, I would not use it.
Bucket or water muffs. If your gonna flush the engine with the hose connection leave the engine off and save your impellar.
i have a problem. When i use your method and turning on the water on the garden hose my engine wont start. When i turn of the water my engine will start perfectly. Do any of you have any solution. Thanks for answers :)
Hi! Well that’s a new one! When you say ‘won’t start’ is it not turning over? Do you have electric start?
My only thought is if you are pull start only perhaps the water pressure against the pump is just enough for you not to get enough RPM to start. Maybe try not turning the water on all the way.
My water comes directly from a well with a high pressure pump so I’ve always only just cracked open the spigot.
Let us know what you find!
When would we do a cold flush and not a warm flush?
Personally, I usually will do cold only after a fresh water outing but after being in salt water I’ll do warm to be sure I get as much salt as I can out of the entire engine (allowing thermostat to open).
Hello I have a question about flushing the fuel of the outboard after use, I unplugged the fuel Line of my brand new 15 hp and put the muffs on and ran the engine a solid 10 minutes and it still ran, is this normal?
yes, the carb will be full of fuel. the engine will run after removing the fuel line until the carb empties (can take a quite a few minutes
@@kiethyrich thanks just wanted to know if that was normal, can you do the warm flush during this or is it recommended that the fuel line be plugged in for that
@@alexchristopher8855 warm flush for 10mins then disconnect fuel is best way to be sure, but if you know how long your engine takes to run dry then you can work it out. the key is to get the engine hot enough to open the thermostat so the water pumps round the engine head for a couple of minutes to remove salt build-up. so unplug the fuel line once the thermostat opens which will ensure the engine is cleaned prior to running dry. sorry for the longwinded reply lol
@@kiethyrich Thanks I appreciate the info! Im a first time boat owner so I am still learning a lot.
Since these engines are fuel injected there is no carb or float bowl. In the carb days we used to run the motor off the fuel line to empty the fuel bowl as much as possible to help avoid gumming up the jets and needle valve when sitting too long without use. I’m not sure this is needed with these EFI engines and running non-ethanol fuel. What do you guys think?
One thing I do know is that these EFI engines sip fuel. After your flush you could drain the remaining fuel from the filter/water separator (the one I had trouble with leaking in the first review vid) then start it back up on the hose and run until it dies. Still might take some time to run out though. I need to look at the manual and see if there is an official procedure for this. Of note though is I would not worry about this unless I was storing the engine for a long while since I run non eth gas and use an additive....and there is no carb or fuel bowl with a float.
You do not need to do a hot flush put wear on your engine. Just hook her up to the hose for 5 minutes and call it done.
He actually explained the difference between a cold and hot flush, and why sometimes you may want to do a hot flush. IMO, anytime you operate in salt water, you have to do the hot flush to guarantee all the pathways get the salt flushed out. Cold flushing will not do that.
Would this be right for a 25hp tohatsu?
I’d think so, but you might want to see if water runs out of the intake grates when you have the hose running. If so, I’d think you would be good.
I’m taking mine apart to replace the impeller soon and will post the results of using this method almost weekly over the last year.
Good video! My oil light stays on about 10 seconds after start. Does yours do this?
Yes, and you should keep on neutral until it turns off, and than you can change your gear forward/reverse.
I have a question. ANYONE CAN ANSWER IF THEY ACTUALLY KNOW THE ANSWER. JUST DON'T GUESS. In a week I will go look at a '17 15 hp Tohatsu. It has been sitting prolly for 18 months (COVID got owner). I hope I can get it running to flush old gas out. ¿If I do a warm flush with muffs or hose port and put in gear can I check lower unit oil for water contamination? Would I need to do a water barrel test?
You can put it in forward and reverse for a few seconds while it’s on the hose just to check operation, it won’t overheat or cause problems.
The way to check the foot for water contamination is to crack the lower screw and let a little bit of the oil come out and verify that it is not milky.
@@commonsensesolutions6662 thank you. I really don’t have a worry but I would like to dump it in gear for a minute and get the prop moving and then get the small lube oil sample. I won’t rev it. Thank you for your response.
If the engine is pissing hot water you know the thermostat is open.
Cold flush is a waste of time IMO. If you need to flush why would you flush 1/2 of the system only?
Exactly! Especially if running in salt water.
How often to flush your engine ?
I flush mine every time after I use it while I clean the boat
That is a lot of wasted water better in a container.
When flushing out salt water I don’t like to recirculate the water in a container. I also don’t like to waste water. The location in my yard where I do the hose flush is on a slight hill and right below that area is a flower garden. The water flows down to that garden and waters it nicely. 👍🏻
@@commonsensesolutions6662 I thought you might do something like that as you seem very thorough in what you do, was just saying as here in the UK and especially the south east of England we have hose pipe bans in the summer months and the fines for breaking them can be quite severe, luckily I live on the west coast of Scotland with a plentiful supply of the best fresh water.
That engineer you spoke to is full of crap. Unless you use flush muffs you SHOULD NOT start the engine. You have a rubber impeller on top of your lower unit that will melt without water going through it . That your water pump. Your thermostat allows water to pass even when closed just not copious amounts. You'll get a full flush if you just use the side flush for 10 minutes with the engine off.
Hi jon doe! I read your comment and did some more research. I also decided to send an email yesterday directly to Tohatsu support to see if I got the same answer. Here is the response:
“Water does get down to the impeller. You can start and idle the motor on the flush attachment. You do not want to rev the motor up. So yes it does get water and you run the motor at an idle speed only.
Thank you,
John Adam
TOHATSU AMERICA CORPORATION
670 S. Freeport Parkway, Suite 120
Coppell, 75019 TX, USA
Office: 469-771-3740
I plan to change the impeller yearly so I will look for melted rubber when I do the change. I’ve changed so many that I know exactly what it should look like. Overheating or melting will be easy to see. I will update this video and thread at that time to show the results.
@@commonsensesolutions6662 Thank you for your informative videos on you Tohatsu.
I have their 5 hp Propane and love it. I'll probably be purchasing their 20 hp EFI this Spring or Summer, so I'm really interested to learn what you find out when you replace the impeller. i've seen comments on another Tohatsu 20 hp CZcams videos where people say absolutely do not run the motor when flushing. But I'll rely on the Tohatsu engineer. Perhaps the problem others have encountered is they did not idle the engines, but ran it at higher rpm.
@@shannonyork5300 Thanks for watching! I’ll for sure post the impeller when I change it. Since this issue came up I have been watching closely and even took a few more videos, which I plan to post. When idling on the hose there is tons of water pouring out of the water intake, this sure seems to me that water is being forced back through the impeller due to the hose having higher pressure thereby keeping it cool. Time will tell and I am very curious how this will turn out. I have a friend with a 90 Yamaha that I spoke to about this and he has used the same procedure for years with no issues. I guess we will find out! Idle only for sure!! Stay tuned!
@@commonsensesolutions6662 Hi, looking forward to your feedback. I have a 2015 Tohatsu 40hp. I also read that it best not to turn motor on when using flush attachment. From your video it seems that their is plenty of water going thru the system which tells me the impeller must be doing its job. I'm keen to find out for sure as I have just purchased the screw in connector and wish to flush this way after every outing. Cheers from Sydney Australia
@@rayklein1125 have you tried the hose flush yet on your motor? I’m curious if you see water coming out of the water intake when idling in the hose?
For that motor you might also want to directly contact the Tohatsu engineering and ask the question. I posted his contact in one of these threads.
Receiving my 2021 20hp Tohatsu, MFS20EEFTL, today! I'm really looking forward to learning what you find when you look at the impeller.
Like you, I'm sure hoping that the warm flush using the built-in flushing port with garden hose with the engine at idle is not only simple and effective, but also safe for the engine. Thank you for sharing your info. Cheers,
Awesome!! I’m curious as well. I keep putting it off because the weather is so hot here now. I’ll head out there early one morning and get it done so I can report.
@@commonsensesolutions6662 Thanks. I look forward to learning what you find. Cheers,
@@shannonyork5300 how’s that new motor?
@@commonsensesolutions6662 Just finished my 10-hour break-in "by the book". My boat is a 15'2" welded aluminum v-hull with a 74"beam. Dry hull weight is 340 lbs. My Tohatsu 20hp tiller, electric start, power tilt with long shaft weighs 118 lbs. The motor came with a 10 pitch prop.
During the periods of the Break In when I could go WOT, the tachometer consistently settled right around 6,100 rpm, which is the upper limit of the "Max Operating Range". At WOT my speed was 23mph - 24mph.
This was all with just me in the boat, a battery, stock gas tank, chart plotter, cooler, a couple of Tempress seats with aluminum seat mounts, oars, and a boat bag with miscellaneous stuff.
Next weekend I'll be taking the boat to some higher elevation lakes (about 6,500 feet). I'll have two passengers (+ me), plus a bit more gear in the boat. I'll start with the 10 pitch that's on the motor now, but I'm taking a 9 pitch and an 8 pitch (both aluminum) with me to experiment.
I would liked to have tested it at my lower elevation first using the 10 pitch, but with 1 and then 2 passengers (+ me) to see what that additional load does to the rpm. But, that didn't work out logistically.
I'll report in after this upcoming series of experiments.
Cheers,
@@shannonyork5300 sounds like a great setup! I wish I would have opted for the power tilt, I’m sure it’s been handy. Looks like you are covered on the props. Hopefully with the extra persons onboard that 10 will end up where you want it to be. I’m for sure curious if elevation is a factor or not. Maybe you can do a quick run by yourself with approx the same weight once you get to your location to see if it tachs out about the same?
Thank you.