Set Up Your Motorcycle Suspension in 6 Easy Steps Intro
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2020
- INTRO: full video here davemosstuning.com/set-up-you...
Your motorcycle came with adjustable suspension for a reason. In 6 easy steps you can have your suspension working perfectly and giving you the best ride of your life. - Sport
“...Some are knobs.” - That’s basically my entire philosophy on life.
Hope you don't encounter flatheads
understandable have a nice day
Felt that...I thought the exact same thing when he said it.. 👀 some are knobs.
I spent sleepless nights thinking why my rebound screws position don't match. And you just cleared it in this video. Thanks A Ton
Instablaster...
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Dave had a suspension setup session in Thousand Oaks yesterday. His settings on a 2018 Ninja 1000 ABS (Z1000SX) really raised its fun factor and if anything made it more comfortable on bumpy backroads. I was ready to write a check for aftermarket suspension but for now I'll just enjoy what Mr. Moss did with the stock equipment. His expertise is worth far more than I paid, plus he's a super nice and humorous fellow. A great afternoon under the DMT tent!
Dave's initial setup comes from his evaluation of what your needs are, then it's refined by test rides and my feedback. Out of respect for his methods and business, and the fact that my setup would probably not suit you, consider doing a Remote Tuning session with him: davemosstuning.com/remote-tuning/
DAVVE!! Thank you so much! Finally poured some of the fork oil out of my daytona 675. Not getting the lock up and the bike never felt better. Adjusted compression to 11/23 clicks. And also had a rebound tire ware issue. The trailing edge was worn. So I lowered the rebound and its so much better. Thanks dave with out you i would have never known the importance of suspension and the impact it has. You help thousands of riders out and I want to thank Dave Moss and Dave the editor. Love you guys! Peace!
I always worried about messing up the suspension on my 14 Vstrom 1000 that was pretty soft/bouncy since new. I just rode it that way and had some real problems rolling anything off road, even gravel with bumps. After watching your series over a year ago I figured I needed to try. With your tips, I adjusted the front little by little and I gotta say I was surprised by my bikes ability now. Amazing difference!! Then taking time to set the rear to my riding and on/off road terrain it is so much more capable, I used to just muscle it and figured thats the way it is but after taking the leap from your guidance it is super fun and STABLE to ride. I just wanted to say thank you for helping a guy that has ridden many years and never messed with the suspension except on my dirt bikes. My Vee is just a whole new bike for me and it is hard to even say how much the ride has changed for the better except absolutely night and day, You took the mystery out of adjusting something that each rider SHOULD do to their bike before anything else. So, thank you Sir for your expertise and help doing this!! I watch every vid you do now just to pick up more information. So, thank you Sir for your expertise and help doing this! Take care my friend,
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences and inspiring others to take the first step to making their motorcycle truly "theirs". I am very proud to read of all that you have achieved via DMT resources and hope you can pay it forward to other V Strom riders!
I am a fan of dave moss watching over and over again...
The videos are always high quality and the structure and presentation is getting even better. Im really glad that I subscribed to the membership.
Thank you for the kind words, we are trying to present better and provide more structured content.
Well made step by step videos are a great idea.
I feel like the keymaker when Neo showed up lol. I like how you explain and demonstrate it definitely makes it easier. You’re the man
Honestly I can't tell you how much I appreciate all this content, how much I'm learning and how much confidence it gives me to improve my bike and my riding.
Once the financial hard times are over and I'm back on my feet properly I'll be signing up and paying something back for the knowledge I've received!
Hope things have gotten better for ya buddy
Thanks Dave for all your informative Videos.
Very welcome
I've watched a lot of your free videos and they've been very helpful! What I did wrong was set up the bike's suspension with its old oil while cold instead of while hot after a >1 hour ride. My confidence on bumpy roads has doubled and I can now actually brake and accelerate instead of having to coast through the bumps, and it's now a whole lot more stable in corners (which I only realized after NOT hanging off the bike on the old settings!)!
Excellent work and thank you for sharing what you learned and how you applied it!
Thanks Dave. I need to fully understand all the adjustments on my 2016 Thruxton 1200R
You should have preload, rebound and compression both front and rear. Make sure that you have static sag accurate for the rear shocks! Then assess fork and shock travel used and alter preload to get travel optimal.
thank you!
Thank you to the two Dave's for another interesting taster video.
Our pleasure!
i have watched so many of these i finally said the hell with it. to many different ways to an they all seem to work or come up with a different number
Pick one video and go with it rather than walk away. That's how I started.
@@CatalystReactionSBW ok thanks. good idea.
I have learned that Dave Moss is a prodigiously strong fellow. Or I am too weak. What looks like him playing with toys as he push, pulls and lifts the bike is TIRING and made me start taking the resistance training seriously 😂😂
As always, thank you dave for demystifying this black art and for gifting me with the ability to dial in a kickass ride!
Thank you! How's the resistance training? :)
@@CatalystReactionSBW can always be better. Suspension tests are becoming easier so I guess it's doing something 😂
thank you. I will have to watch the full video later. At least now i don't need to worry and wonder as much about my suspension screws at top not lining up. Feels a little weird, throttle hand starting to numb. I just stare at the screws and wonder if they should line up. I too have never messed with any of my suspension, either because no adjustment or the great fact of lack of tools, knowledge, space, and help. That and not wanting screw anything up thinking it should be set of right anyway. Probably weigh 150-160. think my new/used bike say it is supposed to be set for 180 pound rider. Zafferano scooter and Zero S now.
Your tha suspension god frfr
Superb
Awesome tips thanks
Hi Dave, I have a 1984 Honda VF700F Interceptor. Bought it used in great shape and have brought it to present day glory. After reading the manual on the level of adjustment of the suspension both front and rear, getting it dialed in still escapes me. Granted it is not a 21st century super-bike but from it's race heritage there should be enough there to get it set well for spirited street riding. It appears to have NO static sag, but with bumps in the road I don't get thrown out of the saddle. The front end is just as mysterious. Any guidance and wisdom would be hugely appreciated. Thank you!
15w fork oil to 140mm oil height with 3 rebound adjustments as stock. Shock is listed as air assist with 4 rebound adjustments so it will not top out and will leave you in the seat. I do not know if it can be taken apart and/or if it is serviceable. 1. Do the rebound adjusters work? 2. Does the shock hold the same air pressure over a week?
Thank you very much for the reply. The rebound adjusters I'm assuming are functional as the bike rides as expected with no wild or out of control feeling. I will double check to insure they are working. I'll check on the shock air pressure as well. I'll be in touch with the info.
Thanks again!!
I subscribe to a number of really good channels, but I'm gonna definitely give ths one a front row seat.... Great Knowledge sharing
In the intro of this video, you talk about videos which will help with setting up suspensions with limited or no adjustability. I'm curious - how do you feel about riders who swap out their OEM suspension components for fancier, more expensive bits? Are they spending money they don't necessarily need to spend? Is there enough adjustability in some of these suspensions to make up for the fact that there isn't a lot of adjustability?
I know what people spend their money on is their own business, but I also know people are - to a degree - sheep. So, I think a lot of people swap their stock suspensions out, because "everyone else is doing it" or because $$$ always seems to equal "better." Granted, a $1,200 shock is probably substantially better than a $200 unit, but is it necessary for the average rider or even a weekend trackday warrior?
If a rider has disposable income and wants to remove and replace OEM suspension with far more expensive components, I have no problem with that at all. I hope that they have it built correctly in order to ensure it works optimally. I have won races with revalved and resprung stock suspension to prove a point or simply changed fork oil to get the suspension working the way I want it to be. As I do not have $$ to spend in that manner, I try to make the best choices and spend $$ as needed.
With the Street Triple had more torque, bc I loved that platform, just lacked the grunt.
Hi. That's how I tune my suspension. First, I measure from the rear suspension axle to the rear wheel axle, and from the suspension axle to the back of the bike. I mark the point. Then I get on the bike and I measure the displacement of the suspension and check whether it's 1/3 of the full travel as indicated in the manual. I tune the rear spring accordingly. Then, I push down the seat and check the front and rear go down evenly and I adjust the fork. If the motorbike "falls" in corners, I harden the front. If the motorbike is hard to turn, I soften the fork
Great explanations and thank you for sharing how you set up your motorcycles.
Do you mean, the harder the front fork is then the bike will be better at corner? I set my rear shock a bit higher than standard on my Kawasaki 250 since the standard shock height was burdensome for me. But people said higher rear shock is dangerous at corner, even though i never tried cornering much only when i got the sudden confidence. So should i stiffen the front fork? Do you have any opinion that you can share about this?
@@howruben Fork height is based on rake and trail numbers first, so review what you have. Then you assess fork travel and see how soft the springs are. If so, raising the front will give you better steering and braking control. If so firm, lowering the front will level out the chassis making turning easier.
@@CatalystReactionSBW wow thanks man, i will try to make a little correction and make sure to find the best setting for me. Thanks again!
Heya Dave great videos keep doing them I have a problem I have a nc700 dct honda and as a commutor bike the suspension for nz roads is terrible and have ordered a new rear adjustable so while riding to town the other day the front mudgaurd fell off on inspection its mounts were shattered it hits bumps real hard our roads here are shocking what is the most economical way of fixing this (there is no adjustment available on this model Cheers Charlie
Hello Charlie. I know NZ roads very well after almost a decade of touring and teaching and clocking up over 10,000kms each trip in 8 weeks. It seems that the forks for the NC need 15w oil so they do not go through the travel so fast. I've done that with several and the owners love the results. Hopefully I will be back in 2023 now that NZ is opening up.
Why isn't Dave getting more Likes c'mon folks,,,pay the man hit the like button!! 120K views....2K Likes ,,,brutal
Dave, have you noticed any design issues with the L1 - L9 GSXR 750 rear shock / linkages? I own the L6 and after adjusting the rear sag to 30 -35 mm I still find the rear very hard to push down to check the rebound rate even after I have taken all of the compression out. I am finding that on B roads that there is a juddering feedback over bumps. Slowing down the rear rebound and opening up the compression helps but I can still feel it. Rear tyre pressure is 36 - 38 psi. I have been to a few bike shops and pushed down on the seat and find that the GSXR is much stiffer than other bikes. Thanks for the content.
Have you taken the linkages apart and greased them along with swing arm bushing etc? Stiction can exit in this part of the bike and give you exactly the sensation you feel. If the shock has not been serviced it will contribute via poor rebound settings.
@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks Dave, linkages and swing arm bearings have been greased recently. Even changed out the rear shock to a bitubo unit. It just seems that the rear is dominating the front as it so stiff compared to the forks.
Hello brother dave, I am cb650r owner and I’m 5’ 11” height, I want to adjust the fork instead I use handle bar extension to make it more up.
Is it ok if I adjust the fork 10 millimeter move it down to make my bike 10mm higher than the original setup?
Start with 5mm and make sure you have 15w fork as soon as you can.
Thanks a lot for that brother dave appreciated. And I learned ideas some of your videos about motorcycle. Thank you ride safe ✌️💪
If i change the preload on the rear shock, does it chance the seatheight as well?
If you make reduce sag by adding preload depending on the spring strength seat height may rise slightly.
So Dave - what is YOUR preferred fork oil? If covered in another video, I haven't found it. Thanks in advance.
Maxima, Motul or Motorex at present as they are widely distributed. Testing Blud oil over the next 3 months.
@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks, Dave. Ride safe.
Excuse me Dave houn question to ask, unfortunately I can't find an answer. If I use a kit to lower the rear by 2.5 cm, do I also have to lower the front fork by 2.5 cm to maintain normal cycling?
Thanks so much
They say u have to lower the front just as much as you lowered the rear, if not, try to lower the front to almost the same amount as you lowered the rear. How this helps, not a suspension expert, just what I've heard or watched.
I’ve got a VF750F Interceptor that I’m yet to restore, but I’m already thinking about how I plan to set up the suspension better than Honda knew how in 1983 - using your advice. The original air shocks were okay in their day, but cannot be fully rebuilt. The forks had the anti dive thing - which apparently never did work. I’m thinking CBR600 cassettes are needed. How do disguise these and a modern shock???
I’m not going to save any money on that project ...!
Nor should you disguise anything for the work that you have painstakingly gone through to recreate your Interceptor. As you can imagine, many riders have gone this route before you and have posted all the modifications they have done, so research quickly yields excellent information. Having newer technology in place will also help other owners who might be thinking the same as you so you can pay it forward by sharing your work! Have fun :)
Dave Moss Tuning Thank you for your wise words of encouragement. Much appreciated.
I do like the idea of modern suspension that looks original. So I’m exploring ways of modifying the original forks, and possibly making a lightweight cover from alloy tubes styled on the humongous solid heavy steel air original shock.
The front forks are actually rather skinny, so CBR600 cassette replacements would be better. But that means boring out the yokes. If this is safe to do, then it would improve the bike no end.
I trawled the forums quite a bit. Turned into a bit of an addition at one point. There are some very experienced guys who do great work keeping the older bikes going.
Just bought a new MT09, and would love to get the suspension set up properly. In the beginning you mention the spec “in the book”. I can’t seem to find any reliable spec for my bike. Any advice?
Thanks for your message and congrats on your MT09 - amazing platform. Set rider sag at 30-35mm front and rear. Then set compression at 50% of the total range. Rebound is a guess as i have not adjusted one of those yet so leave those adjusters as is.
the video went from #2 setting rear sag to #5?what happen to #3#4?
Are you asking why shock setting was not featured in every step from 2 to 5 in this video?
Dave...I have a Suzuki GSR 600. In the manual it says "front fork stroke 130 mm"
I lifted the bike, with the wheel being in the air, and it measures 125 mm. (the expose distance). How do I measure the rider sag, in regarding with the static sag???
Take it for what it is at 125mm as you probably have some stiction going on (separate video). Once set, put a cable tie on the right fork tube and go from there by managing travel using preload.
@@CatalystReactionSBW Thank you so much!
"If we had a friend we could mark this but we don't"
Dam how did he know :(
Hi dave I just bought a 2008 yamaha r6 raven but I don’t know how to check if its in a good condition what I know is it has a slip on yoshimura exhaust, both break pads front and rear is 90%, rear sprocket is good, battery is dead so we just used a battery jump starter, it start a little bit then it will turn-off and since it’s winter we haven’t ride test the bike.. what’s the best thing to do to check the bike? Thanks..
If you have the equipment, #1 test is a leak down in the spark plug holes. #2 is check the spark plugs for color and gap. #3 is to check valve clearances and #4 is air filter.
slightly confused. 175# dave's numbers were 86mm total sag on the forks. when you adjusted preload you went to 83mm....then added another turn to gain 3 more.....you did not mention the number but can i assume it is 80mm? you said a total lose of 6mm. my confusion is if we are adding preload why are our measured numbers (with dave on the bike) decreasing? when you add preload shouldnt the sage measurement be increasing because the the shock is com[pressing less? what am i missing here? thanks
Your thinking is correct with increased preload = less sag if the internal engineering allows that to happen. Sometimes it does not as the preload spacers are not the correct length.
how do you know bottom out of the fork if the spec sheet doesnt say it?
Upside down forks: czcams.com/video/eds3dn1LBkw/video.html. or telescopic forks: czcams.com/video/8om9opU5Q5w/video.html
Ho Dave Moss, i was wondering which is the oil level on a showa bpf 43mm for a 70 kg rider. It is installed on a Suzuki gsx r 1000 k9. Thanks
100-120mm depending on aggressiveness
@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks so much. I asked you because with the level like service manual says, 75 mm, i can t reach the complete course of the sospensions.
Many congrats for your videos
Gilberto from Italy
Why does my bike appear to have rebound adjustment on the right front fork only, but it doesn't say its adjustable on the manual?
Send me a picture of the fork cap along with year make and model to dave@davemosstuning.com
Dave Moss/Williams hi
on the board (whiteboard)
Mr Williams total sag was 44 mm for front
&
Mr Williams total sag was 39 mm for rear
one doubt for clarification;
Total sag 38mm front
&
total sag 39mm rear
am I correct! on this data points on final reading
Will watch and see if we used incorrect numbers!
@@CatalystReactionSBW in continuation on total sag ; if the nos are same (39mm front and 39mm rear) is this considered balanced setup...
dave, come on out to apex track days in utah :) one can dream
Used to do that for a few seasons, now sadly if i do go I lose a lot of $$. Hopefully the numbers of riders are growing per event?
@@CatalystReactionSBW the last session was a sold out event but i wonder if the number of riders is even comparable to over there in Cali.
I'm pretty sure I cant adjust my suspension on my bike, 1992 Yamaha xj400 diversion. My bike is like a bouncy castle in the corners
There is very minimal things you can do to an old budget bike, save for physically moving the forks and changing oil, that's just how it is, low quality suspension.
My bike has air controlled suspension just pump in The pressure u need and get those corners
15-20w fork oil to the stock volume and think about getting firmer springs.
What do I do if I can’t get my shock to 40mm. The lowest I can get it is 50mm. Do I have to get a new spring?
Assess fork travel used to see if you reach the shock bottom out bumper. Ideal travel is 2-3mm off the bumper
@@CatalystReactionSBW sorry I meant rear shock. I bought an ohlins for 165 lb rider but I’ve lost weight and am around 150 now. There’s a certain spot on the shock where I get 50mm then when I add or subtract tension the number starts to go up.
My front forks come in at 23mm haha. It’s a stock fz07, saving up to get adjustable suspension
Link to full video doesn't work. :(
Just tested it via Chrome and Firefox and it went correctly to the full video. Did you click the link in the description?
Dave Moss Tuning thank you for the reply. I clicked link, but I'm using an iPad which I think uses Safari. I'll have to find a computer to watch it. Can't wait! Thanks.
My bike!!! But mines matt black oh and an R not RX.... 😁
Just signed up for the free account DaveMossTuning.com to get a feel for everything. It said I’d have access to one video per month. How do I access it, bc it’s only allowing the trailer to play. How can I see the full video, with paying a membership first.
Thanks for subscribing. Each month a free video is posted to Total Access. You can search "free" and the list will show up.
Lol. I have no friends, and that’s the way I like it... keeps life simpler unless you need an extra set of eyes or 4 hands. Lol
Hi, I own a CB 600 Hornet and only the rear shock is adjustable in terms of preload. Also I'm a pretty heavy rider, do you mind sharing any tips or good to know things?
Well, obviously you're gonna wanna ditch that shock for an adjustable one. Get it resprung to your weight, as well as the forks, and adjust them to the parameters Dave will give you over the website on remote tuning.
Q? What do you use the bike for? street, track, adventure, cruising, touring.
how many miles on the bike when the suspension was serviced if it has ever been serviced?
If the shock is a disposable item is it time to change it out for something that is serviceable / adjustable.
What budget do you have for a serviceable shock second hand ebay special or full on WP, Ohlins etc...
What springs and preload do you have in the forks?
where are your current sag numbers % of travel ?
What is your skill level when it comes to mechanics and servicing? Do you do the work yourself or do you need to have it done for you?
If the forks are over 15,000kms they need to be serviced. The shock over 20,000 needs to be replaced. Let's star there. You can also look at fork and shock travel used.
03:45
05:00
01:36
Now, that's a hook
Can you make video how setup suspension on Kawasaki ninja 636 but 2002. Please and thank you 👍
Just a pitty that we can´t see the entire video :( :(
Pay for the full content, you cheap bastard. Why do you think everything is free? This is this guy’s livelihood. Do you work for free at Starbucks?
Tried hard but if one had all the technical knowledge discussed they would not need this video
Correct and 90% of all motorcycles never get the suspension and ergonomics ever set up. I'd rather help 90%. and save a life every day.
Great explanation but you didn’t actually show how to do it
Use two fixed points for the forks and shock to measure from every time. 1. Extend the suspension. 2. Let the bike sit under its own weight. 3. Sit on the bike. 1&2 = static sag and 3= rider sag
as someone new to motorcycles, you just made this whole task even more complicated and I learned nothing
1. Ergonomics. 2. Setting sag. 3. Setting damping (rebound, compression). 4. Cold tyre pressures. 5. Ride and assess fork and shock travel used. 6. Reset sag to optimize travel used and set chassis balance via hot suspension oil and rebound settings. Hope this simplifies your work flow.
Watch the video 10 more times or pay for the whole video which comes with hundreds of others and near unlimited info. The info is there and not all is free. Hope you've learned a lot in the past year
I don't need a tape measure to see that's not 20mm.
More like 30
Dave, I saw you last Sunday going through Sacramento with the Ford and the trailer. I honked but you completely ignored me, it almost hurt my feelings! I am joking of course, both of us were probably tired... Take care, be safe and see you out there!
Sorry........ I was on a mission to get to Thunderhill coming from 3 days at Button Willow as I had forks to service at Thill prior to midnight.
Get a friend to help?
Well shit
I don’t have any friends
I found this quite confusing. I know there are people who understand this and there is nothing wrong with your information, but as a below average DIY'er, i have no clue how to apply this information.
Dave Williams, editor, replying. Can't thank you enough for your comment. We're putting together some "courses" and your feedback is greatly appreciated. Please elaborate, because how to apply the info is exactly what we're trying to achieve, and if we failed you we likely failed lots of people.
@@CatalystReactionSBW well for me I like to know what needs to be adjusted, how to adjust it and how to know when it’s adjusted enough. And why I need to adjust. And what happens if it isn’t adjusted properly in a practical way, like how it affects the handling of the bike while riding.
You know, just the basic what, why, and how.
Your information seemed to dive a bit too deep into the intricacies of the suspension and that just ended up making me feel in over my head like I would rather just take the bike to a dealer and let them do it.
Dave Williams, editor, again. Excellent! Thank you. Clear and concise. I get exactly where you're coming from. I can see a video in my mind's eye to address all that. We'll try to film and post it by the end of June.
Totally confused
Then start with single videos beginning with lever shape to your hand size, then handlebar ergonomics and start there. Once you understand how to set the bars correctly, then move to static sag, rider sag and the principles of sag. Once you understand that, move to videos on rebound being too fast or too slow for the forks and shock.
@@CatalystReactionSBW ok thanks! I did that... and now know how to measure sag. Do you know what the front and rear sag should be for a 2013 SFV650 Gladius? I'm 240lbs and I can't find the sag specs in the manual...
@@Thomas998822 Front static sag will be around 30mm, then rider on the bike should be another 10-15mm to total 40-45mm. For the rear shock, static sag will be minimal at 8mm and rider sag may be as great as 40mm or more. Once sag is set, use the cable tie on the forks and grease ring on the rear shock (videos for both) to assess if you need more or less preload based on travel used.
Who's thumbs downing this brilliance? lol
First like!
Now I am even more confused. :/
Do you not know where to start? 1. Lever angle. 2. Lever reach to fingers length. 3. Bar position. 4. Shifter and brake pedal height. 5. Static sag and rider sag. 6. Set rebound and compression damping. Starting at 1 with the simplest task through to 6 the hardest.
This shit complicated asf
Just take one thing at a time starting with lever angle and reach.
Not a good video. You should have given us an example
There are many examples in the 2 Clicks Out Series so I am sure you will find what you need there.
Not helpful
That is unfortunate - seems everyone else is willing to have a go and learn.
Wow that was useless
How so?