CBA/ABANA Level-1 Gate-Latch, Part-1. Forging and turning tapered staple
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- This series of 3 videos will focus on the CBAs/ABANAs level-1 Gate Latch project. The project consists of the tapered staple, the latch and the keep. This video introduces the project and looks at the tapered staple. Hot forged.
Mark, It was a privilege meeting you at ABANA last week! You are truly a treasure to the community!
You are an amazing blacksmith. I love watching your videos. Thank you for making them.😃😊🙏✌️🖖
You are very welcome
You can practice things professionnaly for years and sometimes never think of a little thing like puting the square taper on the diagonal willfully to help with the finishing touches.
Thank you for your attention to the detail, applied in the world of blacksmithing, a true treasure
Very true!
Don't take this negatively, because it isn't intended to be. I was happy to see your lighter anvil walking around the shop as you worked. That is the current dilemma I am attempting to alleviate in my own beginner's workspace. Looking forward to taking the ABANA Level 1 course by Zoom over the next few months. Thank you for all you are doing to encourage others to begin the journey into your craft!
I don't know how you solve that without bolting the stand to the floor. You'll note that I switched anvils for parts 2 & 3.
Thank you for making videos which help with earning the Level 1 certification.
Fortuitous this comes out now... I was just thinking about starting the work for this, thanks Mark!
Hope you enjoy it!
Cant wait to see part 2. Forge On. God Bless.
Отлично сделанно!
Question on measuring for the staple length. First you made a mark at 5". Then you tapered 1.75". Then you measured from the top of the taper back to the original punch mark which was 4".
5 - 4 = 1 so it took 1" to make the 1.75" taper. And then you add that inch back in with the 2.75 calculated bits from the curve to figure out the length of 3.75 from the top of the taper. I get that. The math makes sense.
But it's easier to notch the piece into a hook ruler for measurements so I'm wondering if there a reason you don't just measure from the tip of the taper to the punch mark and then subtract the original marked length to get the excess used? (So: 5.75 - 5 = 0.75. Start calculation by adding all the original figures (1.75*2)+2.75 = 6.25. (this could already be done before starting any actual forging) Then subtract the excess of 0.75 that will be created with the new taper. 6.25 - 0.75 = 5.5" from taper tip to cut mark.
If there's a reason, then by all means - I'll make the effort to line up the ruler. But if it's just a difference in preference, then I'd rather use the hook ruler. I did a few practice runs tonight with the calculation method from this video and I kept getting tripped up with math and fiddling with the ruler to line up with the start of the taper and whatnot.
Just a difference in preference, Shaina.
@@MarkAspery great, thanks!
Is there a link on your video to buy that anvil?🙏 And if I could, is this a Steel or cast iron anvil
No link. It's a steel construction judging by the carbon sparks. I get them from e-bay.
@@MarkAspery @jamesmclane2826 The "Acciaio" anvils are all made by the same factory I think, but a bunch of different distributors. VEVOR company sells the blue ones which seem to actually be cast steel rather than cast iron for the sameish price as everyone else but they might actually be able to help you return or exchange it if you get a defective one. They also sell a harder (55 HRC) version in black. Been researching them as a possible 2nd anvil. The price makes it seem like they must be junk, but then I see people whose opinion I greatly respect (such as Mark Aspery) saying they're pretty good so I may have to get one.