Some older locomotives with split chasis design are harder to convert to DCC due to 1 power rail connecting to the entire chasis. Thanks for addressing these issues. I agree that DCC is easier to wire, especially when you want to run multiple locomotives. Running multiple locomotives on DC is more complex to from the wiring side of things. For turnouts/points, DCC does really need Electrofrog, where as on DC you would use Insulfrog points to allow isolation of sidings.
🚂🎉 Bust those DCC myths! 🎉🚂 Digital Command Control (DCC) is not as complicated as it seems! 🤩 Let's debunk common misconceptions and unlock the amazing world of model railroading with DCC! 🌟 #ModelRailroading #DCCMythsBusted #AllAboard 1. What myths did you need to over come to get into DCC? 2. Was there any myths that have kept you away from DCC? 3. Is there are glaring myths that I should have added to this list? Thanks for watching.
For those who are new to model railways or those who want to convert a loco to DCC but are not sure on how to go about it. I use Digitrax for my power and control, and in the past I have converted Bachmann split frame locomotives, I started by checking the stall current of the loco to ensure that I can get a decoder that will support that current, (Amps). You will need to find a or purchase a piece of equipment that can measure DC current in order to check the stall current. Stall current is checked by placing the loco onto the track, applying full power to the track and holding the loco to stop its wheels from rotating whilst reading the display on what you are using to check the current with. Once you have got the reading remove the power ASAP so as not to burn anything out. Everything is then hard wired (solder connections) without the need or use of the plugs and sockets as there is not enough room for these. For those who are not sure on how to do this, I think there are videos on You tube. I personally chose to change over to DCC for reasons of added realism when running trains. I hope I have been of some use.
Nice video! Have tinkered with DCC since it came out on the Swedish market and as far as I can see your list is completely correct without small errors / simplifications that can be misinterpreted, good job.
Thanks for busting the myths. DCC is, I think, the way to go. You asked about converting locos from DC to DCC. I did a couple, but I am fat fingered, and partially blind in one eye, so the job was not as neat as I would have liked. Some others I have had converted by some really helpful people, DCC Solutions and DCC Sound. Both great operators here in Australia. Now the Locos come at quite reasonable prices both Sound and DCC fitted from the likes of Auscision, SDS, and IDR to mention a few. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
for #7 you are only partially correct. cheap multi-meters, like the yellow one you show in the video, can not read dcc voltage but a True RMS voltage meter, like those sold by Fluke and used by electricians and electronics people will read the voltage accurately. The meter you show from Tony's is a True RMS meter that can only be used for voltage and amperage reading. on the other hand my Fluke True RMS multi-meter, that I used in my career as an electrician allows me to read dcc (using the AC volt setting), dc volts, ac and dc amps, ohms (for checking resistors), continuity (dead shorts between wires as an example, used also to read diodes), and a new one doesn't cost much more than that thing at Tony's.
i think that command stations are going and onley power spupply's are going to be used. some manufactures are testing to merge blue thoot into the decoders zo you can run the loc direct from the app on your phone
there are firms experimenting with wifi direct into the decoders .with an app onto your cell phone you can command the loc .so there will be no need any more for a z21 ecos digicase command station.the onle thing that is requered is power onto the rails
Time stamp 8. No it will not, because it can't. It's even different from manufacture to manufacture. For example a Bachmann will give a different reading than ones that don't allow DC trains on their system, even at idle. This is because they stretch out part of the signal to run the DC engines, which isn't good for the motors at idle. If you want the amps of your train, then you need to measure the DC amperage coming into your system, and minus the idle amperage of the system from when a train is running. Devices like that are selling you snake oil.
1: DCC is too complicated. This is subjective to the individual, I would say it definitely is more complicated, especially if you are on a DC system and wanting to go into DCC i.e. converting existing locos to DCC ones. Simply the number of decoders out there which is good? which is absolute junk? Which ones would I actually need? What if I want sound? How do I get sounds into my loco? All in all, more complicated then putting ONE DC loco on a track and letting it go, and then in your mind making the "chugga chugga" sound 🤣 2: DCC is too expensive. Same as above, it is MORE expensive to be certain. Actually running equipment aside, if you have a lot of locos how much will it cost to convert them to run on a DCC system? Even if you get the "cheap" decoders it can add up in a hurry. Then there's the elephant in the room, how much do the decoders/sound systems actually cost? Just looking online at some prices similar locos (e.g. manufacturer, detail level, etc) seem to cost $100-$150 for a dcc+sound versus DCC ready locos, which again makes me wonder how much would it cost to upgrade your existing DC locos, or are we just being price gouged by manufacturers? The decoder + tiny speaker can't cost that much can it? That said, I would absolutely go DCC, the ability to run more than one loco on the track system is something you simply can not replicate with DC. I'm just one of those outliers of trying to make an expensive hobby a bit more affordable and having some difficult finding what I need to make it so
Thanks for your comments. Not sure I ever said Markelin was any better than NCE. Marlklin starter sets are around $300aud, so similar to nce.DCC wiring is a lot simpler wiring for similar results with multi cab use in the DC world.
@@ModelRailroadTechniques My apologies Marklin isn't very widely seen around here, and the first "dcc starter set" that popped up was a $700 one, after some further looking I did see ones that were similarly priced to NCE.
Some older locomotives with split chasis design are harder to convert to DCC due to 1 power rail connecting to the entire chasis.
Thanks for addressing these issues. I agree that DCC is easier to wire, especially when you want to run multiple locomotives. Running multiple locomotives on DC is more complex to from the wiring side of things.
For turnouts/points, DCC does really need Electrofrog, where as on DC you would use Insulfrog points to allow isolation of sidings.
Agreed. Some oldest ones are more challenging to convert. My turnouts have served me well.
🚂🎉 Bust those DCC myths! 🎉🚂 Digital Command Control (DCC) is not as complicated as it seems! 🤩 Let's debunk common misconceptions and unlock the amazing world of model railroading with DCC! 🌟 #ModelRailroading #DCCMythsBusted #AllAboard
1. What myths did you need to over come to get into DCC?
2. Was there any myths that have kept you away from DCC?
3. Is there are glaring myths that I should have added to this list?
Thanks for watching.
For those who are new to model railways or those who want to convert a loco to DCC but are not sure on how to go about it. I use Digitrax for my power and control, and in the past I have converted Bachmann split frame locomotives, I started by checking the stall current of the loco to ensure that I can get a decoder that will support that current, (Amps). You will need to find a or purchase a piece of equipment that can measure DC current in order to check the stall current. Stall current is checked by placing the loco onto the track, applying full power to the track and holding the loco to stop its wheels from rotating whilst reading the display on what you are using to check the current with. Once you have got the reading remove the power ASAP so as not to burn anything out. Everything is then hard wired (solder connections) without the need or use of the plugs and sockets as there is not enough room for these. For those who are not sure on how to do this, I think there are videos on You tube. I personally chose to change over to DCC for reasons of added realism when running trains. I hope I have been of some use.
Thanks for your comprehensive right up about your journey and some great DCC conversion advice
Nice video. Helpful for long time users, too!
Thank you for your kind words.
Nice video! Have tinkered with DCC since it came out on the Swedish market and as far as I can see your list is completely correct without small errors / simplifications that can be misinterpreted, good job.
Thank you for your kind words.
Thanks for busting the myths. DCC is, I think, the way to go.
You asked about converting locos from DC to DCC. I did a couple, but I am fat fingered, and partially blind in one eye, so the job was not as neat as I would have liked. Some others I have had converted by some really helpful people, DCC Solutions and DCC Sound. Both great operators here in Australia.
Now the Locos come at quite reasonable prices both Sound and DCC fitted from the likes of Auscision, SDS, and IDR to mention a few.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Thank you. I didn’t really touch on some great companies doing these conversions. DCC is so much fun regardless how deep you wish to go.
for #7 you are only partially correct. cheap multi-meters, like the yellow one you show in the video, can not read dcc voltage but a True RMS voltage meter, like those sold by Fluke and used by electricians and electronics people will read the voltage accurately. The meter you show from Tony's is a True RMS meter that can only be used for voltage and amperage reading. on the other hand my Fluke True RMS multi-meter, that I used in my career as an electrician allows me to read dcc (using the AC volt setting), dc volts, ac and dc amps, ohms (for checking resistors), continuity (dead shorts between wires as an example, used also to read diodes), and a new one doesn't cost much more than that thing at Tony's.
Thanks for your update
i think that command stations are going and onley power spupply's are going to be used. some manufactures are testing to merge blue thoot into the decoders zo you can run the loc direct from the app on your phone
Thanks for your comments. What do you mean by command stations are going though?
there are firms experimenting with wifi direct into the decoders .with an app onto your cell phone you can command the loc .so there will be no need any more for a z21 ecos digicase command station.the onle thing that is requered is power onto the rails
Time stamp 8. No it will not, because it can't. It's even different from manufacture to manufacture. For example a Bachmann will give a different reading than ones that don't allow DC trains on their system, even at idle. This is because they stretch out part of the signal to run the DC engines, which isn't good for the motors at idle. If you want the amps of your train, then you need to measure the DC amperage coming into your system, and minus the idle amperage of the system from when a train is running.
Devices like that are selling you snake oil.
Thanks for your comments. Might have to agree to disagree on some points. Thanks for watching.
@@ModelRailroadTechniques Try it. Borrow a Bachmann, and compare to what you have.
1: DCC is too complicated. This is subjective to the individual, I would say it definitely is more complicated, especially if you are on a DC system and wanting to go into DCC i.e. converting existing locos to DCC ones. Simply the number of decoders out there which is good? which is absolute junk? Which ones would I actually need? What if I want sound? How do I get sounds into my loco? All in all, more complicated then putting ONE DC loco on a track and letting it go, and then in your mind making the "chugga chugga" sound 🤣
2: DCC is too expensive. Same as above, it is MORE expensive to be certain. Actually running equipment aside, if you have a lot of locos how much will it cost to convert them to run on a DCC system? Even if you get the "cheap" decoders it can add up in a hurry. Then there's the elephant in the room, how much do the decoders/sound systems actually cost? Just looking online at some prices similar locos (e.g. manufacturer, detail level, etc) seem to cost $100-$150 for a dcc+sound versus DCC ready locos, which again makes me wonder how much would it cost to upgrade your existing DC locos, or are we just being price gouged by manufacturers? The decoder + tiny speaker can't cost that much can it?
That said, I would absolutely go DCC, the ability to run more than one loco on the track system is something you simply can not replicate with DC. I'm just one of those outliers of trying to make an expensive hobby a bit more affordable and having some difficult finding what I need to make it so
Thanks for your comments. Not sure I ever said Markelin was any better than NCE. Marlklin starter sets are around $300aud, so similar to nce.DCC wiring is a lot simpler wiring for similar results with multi cab use in the DC world.
@@ModelRailroadTechniques My apologies Marklin isn't very widely seen around here, and the first "dcc starter set" that popped up was a $700 one, after some further looking I did see ones that were similarly priced to NCE.