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Have you considered using one of the combined RGB LEDs with 4 pins. I'm also thinking it may work better attached to analog pins with output being varied randomly from 0-255 to give a smoother flicker

If you don't want to built it yourself, you can just purchase a UP7 for about $15. With 5 plug-in ports, it does exactly the same thing. I've used that method on a big Digitrax layout I'm currently building for a customer in Sydney. The input from the command station goes into the side port, with the four outputs each sending the loconet down a different peninsula. Also worth noting is that the Digitrax cable maker kit comes with a tester that clips onto the end of the cable to tell you if everything is correct. BTW, by the time you've added up the value of the 50' cable, the connectors and the tester that come with the kit, the specialized pliers are almost free.

interesting project

I forgot to mention, I use a Digitrax LNRP (LocoNet Repeater). I have no way of knowing if it makes any difference to the data signal.

Nice work Daz, regards Charlie

Schematics?

Love this episode, thanks for your take on this challenge. Could I suggest that what you propose is part of the solution, to a more fundamental issue, that being we hold onto so much, which turns into a quality of items so great that we are unable to remember whether we have that item or not, at that point the item becomes worthless, because we unknowingly go out and procure another one, only to realise later we had it all the time. At this point we go into organisation mode, somewhere like you are right now. This issue continues to frustrate me as I attempt to establish a balance between life, work and this modelling undertaking. My answer - discipline. The workspace is not a storage space, regardless of what I am working on. The office space is only the office, while it may display a small number of inspiration pieces, or reference books, it is not a modelling or construction space. The office space does serve an additional special function, it stores on xls lists, costs, details of all current and future projects, which reduces errors considerably when preparing for the next part of the project of job. The storage space is only a materials storage space, and does not contain tools, jobs in progress or similar. This discipline relates to whether I’m working on the car, modelling or fixing a leaking tap. Underpinning this discipline, are a number of key points, (a) the model railway is fixed by location, and date to the day. (b) there is only one layout at one time. (c) there is only one item being worked on at anyone time. Our lives, this modelling undertaking are far more complicated than it was twenty years ago, with these points in mind it’s surprising how much space you suddenly have. It isn’t perfect, as I am currently looking at two unopened tubes of Tamiya putty, but it’s saved me a fortune in time and expense. The hard part is parting with stuff that is surplus to requirement, or just plain junk. I must say, in closing, that 3D printing and laser cutting have driven this change to a great extent. Very best regards from South Oz

Ha, easy, yes to all :-) Love what you are doing, but the question will be the practical application in the was that how far can the sensor be away from the tag to still read it consistendly. Like can you leave the innards of the tag inside the car or locomotive or does it need to hang very low underneath the car and the sensor pad 'on top of the rails'. If sufficient distance can be covered it'll be easy to make the bits disappear in the scenery/equipment and then it'll be a true winner. They use it on Mckinley (?) railroad as well, some good info there. Cheers, Rene

I love the idea of using RFID tags on the cars to track location, as it will help find lost cars. However, I don't care for using it to generate switch lists in this fashion. I prefer SwitchList for OSX (simple lists, and Mac only) or JMRI Operations (which is what I personally use) for doing this.

G'day Das, I am a low tech guy and will stick to my car cards and waybills. Simple to make using Word or in my case Pages on my Mac. Once you have made the cards it is simple to flip them between operating sessions. For the Adelaide Model Railroaders I have made a car order card system which is even simpler to use. Reporting numbers are not used. So I would not consider using ardunios or your system but I can see why those who are into computer and electronics on their model railway would be keen to use such a system. Cheers Ken 👍😃

Be the First to Comment on this video. 1. Would you use a system like this?? Or Do use some similar? 2. If so what is it or how can I tweek it to be better? 3 Are there any glaring errors I can improve on. Thanks for Watching and Do forget to subscribe, like & hit that bell icon to be notified of upcoming videos

Of course battery power and power assist on energized rails is the next big thing, long overdue by 25 years. Another disappointment from an industry dominating the NMRA. We'll see what they make of it.

I've thought about pcbway to do a small number of circuit boards. I don't have a circuit board drawn up, which they seem to want, but I do have 3D prints drawn up in files they except. Putting a simple bracket up for just one they want to charge me $23.15, and that is just the subtotal, when it cost me $1.25 with 2 hours and 47 minutes of print time. Setup time is almost nothing, and printing two is just telling the printer to do so. Printing 2 is 24 cents short of double the price, when the single cost is insane. Double is ridiculous.

What scale/gauge are you using? I'm interested in how you get the tags near enough to the reader to be read. Every time I've tried, on 00 gauge, the tags are too far away from the reader to be detected.

I've been interested in the idea of RFID for wagons, locos, or sets since seeing McKinley Railway using them a few years ago, for the purposes of train automation (especially routing and location detection) on future layouts. Curious to see where this project goes.

I have been looking at a RFID system for my layout to identify trains arriving at stations, so this is great video for me. So far just a simple RC522 reader being used, But i was having issues with how to have multiple tags stored which you have solved for me. It is possible to get a copy of your sketch Please? also I can't get your website link to work, I'm using firefox in Australia. Love you Videos. Thanks Tony

Be the first to comment: 1. Would you use a system like this? 2. If so how have you done this, or what tweeks have you used. 3. Are there any glaring errors in my video. Thanks for watching, please subscribe and hit that little bell!!!

Thanks for this great video. You mentioned a modeller from India. I am from India too. Can you put me into touch with him ? Thanks. Have already subscribed to your Channel.

Good video. Sh#t music. Over and over again. Put me right off.

Ben using WLED for years :) great hardware/software solution. I use a couple of them ..one for house seasonal lighting and one on my railroad for lightning effects and general lighting effects

GO DUCKS!

Time stamp 8. No it will not, because it can't. It's even different from manufacture to manufacture. For example a Bachmann will give a different reading than ones that don't allow DC trains on their system, even at idle. This is because they stretch out part of the signal to run the DC engines, which isn't good for the motors at idle. If you want the amps of your train, then you need to measure the DC amperage coming into your system, and minus the idle amperage of the system from when a train is running. Devices like that are selling you snake oil.

Best welding simulator I have seen. Will definately be using it on my layout. Thank you.

You might like this from Adelaide Model Railway Show 2022 their next show is 8th -10th June. czcams.com/video/9sS7HuTuyOg/video.html

Great layouts and always love seeing a variety of rolling stock 🙂🙂

Big compliment for the great model railway layout. It's great fun to watch.

I have used gpt. I had to be quite specific in my prompts before i got it workin well. Definitely worthwhile tho

im using Copilot by Microsoft (integrated in BING), it can do more code at once while ChatGPT is limited here in the free-version

So basically you got ChatGPT to write the demo Blink sketch that comes in the library by default lol. Seriously though, ChatGPT can do some awesome stuff, but it is also a worry because too many people become reliant on it and forget the mistakes it can make.

Yes, I have used ChatGPT to help me construct code for various platforms. I found that it helps me to get started with the code, but when it gets more complicated it starts to make errors. Sometimes I know that a library function exist for something and it doesn't use that. When I then suggest to ChatGPT that this library function exists it then answers with "Oh sorry you are right, here is some new code". And sometimes I use some keywords that ChatGPT uses in its answer to search in Google which then gives me the proper solution.

Be the first to comment: 1. Have you used AI in this fashion. If not would you use it?. 2. If you have used AI, what are your experiences with it? 3. How can I do this better?

For dressing wires, I use waxed dental floss as it takes up very little room in the loco and the wax helps keep the floss from getting tangled as you tie the loose ends together. To untie the floss just keep poking and prodding it till the knot starts to loosen.

Thanks for your kind comments

Thanks!

Nice video. I think I will build one too. Thanks so much!

That is a cool effect. Thanks for going over the sketch

Today I learned the Arduino Analog pins can actually be used as digital outputs. I saw the wiring diagram with the LED in A0 and thought "that's not right" but after a quick google apparently, yes, you can in fact use them as digital output pins. That's incredibly useful for non-railway arduino stuff.

Just a quick on, they are not purlons . . they are call PURLINS

ESU Loksound for me! I've used DCC Concepts adapters for older locos.

What if I want to have the exact rock and make it into silicon, how do I do that? Thank you!

In the old days I something similar for my wagon lights.. with a capacitor and a bridge rectifier.. not to deal with AC to DC but to deal with the fact of reverse polarity blowing up the capactor if the + and - were reversed.

Best video I've seen on Keep Alives!

Be the first to ask a question or answer some of my questions: 1. Would you use a keep alive? Would you consider making your own? 2. If you would, what tweeks would you do? 3. How could I have this better?

For kit locos or rewires I use one of the replacement type of board as I believe you can test using an older decoder then at a later date swap it easily for a sound one. One that gets quite a lot of sales in the UK & EU is Zimo

Hi Daz!!! Thanks for the shout out!!! A lot of Decoder Buddys do make their way to Australia!!! Nick of NixTrainz!!! I'm envious! You made it to the Colorado Railroad Museum!!! Definitely high on my to do list!!!

Awesome info and presentation!

Yeah, I checked the price out and it is fair, but $27.00 postage from Australia to the US, that's a no go. I want to make HO scale corrugated metal, so I got a plastic sheet for $14.00 of .040 corrugated metal and put a drop of dish soap on it and apply a general amount of Elmer's glue on top and wait for it to dry. After it dries I add another layer of Elmer's glue and wait for it to dry. I then CAREFULLY peel the layer of glue off the mold and glue it to a piece of card stock and paint it grey. I then weather it like I would any other plastic sheet. You can make all you want as long as the glue holds out. Now for O scale corrugated metal, I got me one of those toothpaste squeezers from Amazon (only $9.99 for the metal one) and save every beer can (after drinking it) and run through the squeezer. I've now got more O scale corrugated metal than I know what to do with. I guess all my scratch built buildings will have corrugated siding with corrugated roofs, LOL! Cheers from eastern TN

Different LED colours have different forward voltages, due to the way LED's are manfactured, which is quite technical, but yeah, that's why you need different resistors. It not only matches intensity, but it matches current draw and makes sure you don't over-drive your LED and reduce it's life.

I just bought flame leds. no controller needed. But good show and a fun exercise.