The problem with the Uberti replicas of the 1847 model Colt's is that they just aren't made as well as the hand fitted originals were. One of the biggest issues with them is that the edges of the striking surface of the hammers are left too sharp, and you really need to take a small file, or an Emory board, or even just sand paper, and round off the corners of the hammer face a bit. The sharp corners bite into the soft metal of the caps when they fire, and cause them to stick to the hammer just enough that when you cock it again, the hammer will lift the busted cap off the nipple, and drop it into your action. That's really inconvenient. Just smooth off the edges of the hammer, and it will quit doing that. The originals never did that.
I like what you did for the conversion and the best thing with the loading lever is to replace the catch spring with a stronger one it will hold better and still be useful incase you want to switch back to the original cylender
That's a good a good looking Uberti Colt Dragoon 3rd Model with the Kirst Konvertor cylinder . I've been doing a little research on the Colt Dragoon 3rd Model and it's made somewhat of an impression on me. Now I think I'll go ahead and purchase one with the Kirst Convertor. Maybe with the cartridge ejector too, if it's available.
I have that same conversion, I put a couple of spent primers behind the spring in the loading lever, now looking to find some bone or white grips, after that nickle plating the grip, frame, load lever then get a charcoal bluing on the barrel & cylinder,
Thank you for making this video it gave me a good idea and what I'll be getting with the kit. I'm getting it for a walker I was able to get my hands on a couple months back. Not the biggest fan of the loading lever falling all the time so I'll be happy to delete mine once the conversion is done
I ended up wedging a small piece of rubber between the barrel and loading lever and it put enough downward tension on the loading lever and now it stays put. Thank you and good luck with yours.
Gotta unscrew and remove the loading plunger, so if the lever does drop it won't lock up the gun. You could even use the detached plunger as the extracting pushrod.
I ended up wedging a small piece of rubber between the base of the rammer arm and the frame. It put enough pressure on the on the rammer arm to keep it in place.
Thanks for posting this video. It's very interesting. I have a Colt 2nd Model Dragoon Reintroduction that I haven't used in 25+ years. I'm wondering if a Kirst Konverter will work on it? Can you shoot smokeless powder .45 Long Colt ammo? Does this kit require professional gun smithing?
You can attempt to do it yourself but I had to have mine professionally done. The cylinder was a little too long for my revolver and it had to be cut back some. I do use smokeless powder in mine, cowboy loads using Trail Boss powder. As for your revolver, best to contact Kirst on that one.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike Thanks for the information. I spoke to Walt this morning and placed an order with his gunsmith doing the work. It wasn't cheap, but I wanted the work done right. BTW, I have a suggestion for your loading gate problem. You can super glue it in pace. One it sets up you won't be able to see it and it should be able to handle the recoil. If every you want to use the loading lever again, you can dissolve the super glue with acetone or nail polish remover.
You would think they would fix the loading level in third model. I may buy a Kirst cylinder for my 2021 Uberti Walker to make up for all the cap jams I am having. There seems to be little to non improvement from year to year for these guns.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike would you recommend the walker conversion or the dragoon conversion. I dont have money for either but you seem very well versed and id like your opinion
@@GatorConnor I personally prefer the Dragoon, it balances better in my hand. I wish Uberti would make the conversion models, to save the time and money of us having to buy the separate components and completing the installation.
You hit the nail on the head. It does need a stronger spring and more real estate (surface area) for the latch to lock into. If I was to of kept it in its original configuration, I would look at beefing up that catch spring. Uberti can do better than this. I have seen others having the same issue with theirs but since I no longer need it, I think I found a simple way to keep it in place.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike a simpler way is to buy another barrel, remove the lever from the one you bought and keep the lever on the original. If you want to shoot black powder, use the original with the original cylinder. Want to shoot cartridges, use the conversion cylinder and the barrel sans lever. Problem solved and you can switch it back and forth as needed or wanted.
@@chrismc410 or just wedge a small piece of rubber under the rammer so that it puts more pressure against the lug. It's doing the job and it's a lot cheaper than a new barrel.
you could use a rubber band to wrap around the barrel and loading lever to keep the loading lever from dropping when you shoot those .45 cowboy loads ???
I like the idea of these, but I am surprised the cut out for capping was big enough for cartridges, so did that have to get enlarged? And can’t you get a more powerful round for the Dragoon and Walker? For guns that big I would rather get more power.
You have to dremel out a channel in the recoil shield in order to get a cartridge through to the cylinder. What you give up for power you gain in faster reloads. That's why I decided to convert my Dragoon and not my Walker since the Walker can be loaded hotter than the Dragoon when using cap and ball.
What are you going to do about your dragoon shooting high? I've seen some people use a dovetailed higher front sight. That might work, but it looks ugly. I might try to find a local gunsmith braze on a matching higher blade sight. what are
There is a cartridge called the 45-60-250 Brimstone that is made for the Walker and Dragoon conversions. I think it is based off of the 460 S&W and I believe Gary Barnes came up with that cartridge. He does cartridge conversions and I had him convert my 1860 Army Snub Nose for me.
@@texasghostrider9644 Yes, it is an Uberti and I got it from Dixie G.W. Midway USA had them as well but at that time DGW was a little less on the price tag.
Replace the loading lever with the Kirst ejecter rod assembly. They go for around $150 and now that you're shooting cartridges there is really no need for the loading lever.
So I'm assuming kirst wont mill out the back plate to accept cartridges. If not what tools did you use to do this. What type of dremel for this material?
Quand vous convertissez une arme, quelle type de cartouche utilisez-vous? Je veux dire, sont-elles chargées avec de la poudre noire, et à combien de grammes ? Merci.
I do prefer the Uberti 1860 colt and the Howell conversion cylinders but the Kirst converters are interesting even though for maximum effectiveness they really do need the factory modification. The Howell conversion cylinders work best with uberti remington new model army .44 repros. As always with colts it's a given that they will hit high so you gotta aim about 3 inches low at 30 to 45 feet distance
I was looking at that and eventually just bought an Uberti Richards II conversion in .45 Colt. You get an ejection lever on a straight 1860 frame. Better looking than the Richards-Mason conversion. Edit/Addition: It was the revolver used by Selleck in the movie "Last Stand at Saber River" as a post-War Between the States gunsmith conversation.
I know if you load black powder and ball then you can go a little hotter than other .44 caliber revolvers but as for the Kirst Konverter, they recommend using the equivalent of cowboy action loads.
If a gunsmith forgot to reblue and part of my gun I’d be a little upset to be honest. Not very much attention to detail and that urks me… especially if you’re paying the man. You shouldn’t have to fix it yourself after. And just to have that loading lever fall after every two shots sucks too. He should’ve called you and offered to fix that if he knew what he was doing. Maybe he doesn’t get a lot of old revolvers idk. Most people I know who sent theirs to a gunsmith they fixed the loading lever without asking cause they knew this would happen on walkers and dragoons
The problem with the Uberti replicas of the 1847 model Colt's is that they just aren't made as well as the hand fitted originals were. One of the biggest issues with them is that the edges of the striking surface of the hammers are left too sharp, and you really need to take a small file, or an Emory board, or even just sand paper, and round off the corners of the hammer face a bit. The sharp corners bite into the soft metal of the caps when they fire, and cause them to stick to the hammer just enough that when you cock it again, the hammer will lift the busted cap off the nipple, and drop it into your action. That's really inconvenient. Just smooth off the edges of the hammer, and it will quit doing that. The originals never did that.
I love the conversion cylinder with the loading gate. Awsome. Thanks for sharing
I like what you did for the conversion and the best thing with the loading lever is to replace the catch spring with a stronger one it will hold better and still be useful incase you want to switch back to the original cylender
I ended up wedging a small piece of rubber under the loading lever and it holds it in place.
That's a good a good looking Uberti Colt Dragoon 3rd Model with the Kirst Konvertor cylinder . I've been doing a little research on the Colt Dragoon 3rd Model and it's made somewhat of an impression on me. Now I think I'll go ahead and purchase one with the Kirst Convertor. Maybe with the cartridge ejector too, if it's available.
I have that same conversion, I put a couple of spent primers behind the spring in the loading lever, now looking to find some bone or white grips, after that nickle plating the grip, frame, load lever then get a charcoal bluing on the barrel & cylinder,
What a beauty of gun 👏👏👏
Thank you for making this video it gave me a good idea and what I'll be getting with the kit. I'm getting it for a walker I was able to get my hands on a couple months back. Not the biggest fan of the loading lever falling all the time so I'll be happy to delete mine once the conversion is done
I ended up wedging a small piece of rubber between the barrel and loading lever and it put enough downward tension on the loading lever and now it stays put. Thank you and good luck with yours.
Nice. I JUST bought on from CCS 🙂
I love it. So pretty. I half wish you could have done that with a walker reproduction.
Gotta unscrew and remove the loading plunger, so if the lever does drop it won't lock up the gun. You could even use the detached plunger as the extracting pushrod.
I wedged a small piece of rubber behind the lever and the frame and now it is "tighter than Dick's hat band".
I love kirst konverters doing a 1860 army sheriff model at the moment still have to do a 1860 snubnose like you did
Super revolver👍👌
For cool factor the leather strap actually works 👍🙂
I used to tie a piece of raw hide around the barrel and charging handle on my Sam walker.
Nice...I would do away with the loading lever and replace it with an extractor.
Nice broken arrow hat
Use a screw to attach the plunger to the catch. Use of a drill press and tap.
I ended up wedging a small piece of rubber between the base of the rammer arm and the frame. It put enough pressure on the on the rammer arm to keep it in place.
Thanks for posting this video. It's very interesting. I have a Colt 2nd Model Dragoon Reintroduction that I haven't used in 25+ years. I'm wondering if a Kirst Konverter will work on it? Can you shoot smokeless powder .45 Long Colt ammo? Does this kit require professional gun smithing?
You can attempt to do it yourself but I had to have mine professionally done. The cylinder was a little too long for my revolver and it had to be cut back some. I do use smokeless powder in mine, cowboy loads using Trail Boss powder. As for your revolver, best to contact Kirst on that one.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike Thanks for the information. I spoke to Walt this morning and placed an order with his gunsmith doing the work. It wasn't cheap, but I wanted the work done right. BTW, I have a suggestion for your loading gate problem. You can super glue it in pace. One it sets up you won't be able to see it and it should be able to handle the recoil. If every you want to use the loading lever again, you can dissolve the super glue with acetone or nail polish remover.
You would think they would fix the loading level in third model. I may buy a Kirst cylinder for my 2021 Uberti Walker to make up for all the cap jams I am having. There seems to be little to non improvement from year to year for these guns.
YEP!
Ive never owned a gun before, but my first gun i want is a Colt Dragoon conversion
It is a sweet piece.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike would you recommend the walker conversion or the dragoon conversion. I dont have money for either but you seem very well versed and id like your opinion
@@GatorConnor I personally prefer the Dragoon, it balances better in my hand. I wish Uberti would make the conversion models, to save the time and money of us having to buy the separate components and completing the installation.
Have you considered weak spring tension on the loading lever? Or maybe an oversized catch? Just offering some hopefully helpful suggestions
You hit the nail on the head. It does need a stronger spring and more real estate (surface area) for the latch to lock into. If I was to of kept it in its original configuration, I would look at beefing up that catch spring. Uberti can do better than this. I have seen others having the same issue with theirs but since I no longer need it, I think I found a simple way to keep it in place.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike a simpler way is to buy another barrel, remove the lever from the one you bought and keep the lever on the original. If you want to shoot black powder, use the original with the original cylinder. Want to shoot cartridges, use the conversion cylinder and the barrel sans lever. Problem solved and you can switch it back and forth as needed or wanted.
@@chrismc410 or just wedge a small piece of rubber under the rammer so that it puts more pressure against the lug. It's doing the job and it's a lot cheaper than a new barrel.
That's exactly what I want. Do they make an ejection rod that fits it?
I'm not for sure if they make one for the Dragoon.
you could use a rubber band to wrap around the barrel and loading lever to keep the loading lever from dropping when you shoot those .45 cowboy loads ???
Would love to see an spring extractor added.
Me too but the last time I looked, Kirst didn't offer one for the Dragoon.
That things sweet did you order yours with the no installation or standard installation and enjoyed the video thank you
I attempted to do it myself but ended up sending it in for the standard installation.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike thanks for getting back to me I am getting ready to order one but wasn't sure what option I should choose thanks again
I like the idea of these, but I am surprised the cut out for capping was big enough for cartridges, so did that have to get enlarged?
And can’t you get a more powerful round for the Dragoon and Walker?
For guns that big I would rather get more power.
You have to dremel out a channel in the recoil shield in order to get a cartridge through to the cylinder. What you give up for power you gain in faster reloads. That's why I decided to convert my Dragoon and not my Walker since the Walker can be loaded hotter than the Dragoon when using cap and ball.
What are you going to do about your dragoon shooting high? I've seen some people use a dovetailed higher front sight. That might work, but it looks ugly. I might try to find a local gunsmith braze on a matching higher blade sight.
what are
I would go with a brazed on higher sight before a dovetail sight for sure but I'll probably just start aiming at the bad guys belly button.
I wonder how hot a cartridge that can handle since it was supposed to be shooting something like a walker load.
There is a cartridge called the 45-60-250 Brimstone that is made for the Walker and Dragoon conversions. I think it is based off of the 460 S&W and I believe Gary Barnes came up with that cartridge. He does cartridge conversions and I had him convert my 1860 Army Snub Nose for me.
That is a beautiful Colt Dragoon , where did you get the conversion cylinder from?
I ordered it from Kirst's web site.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike
What about the pistol, where did you get it from? And is it a uberti??
@@texasghostrider9644 Yes, it is an Uberti and I got it from Dixie G.W. Midway USA had them as well but at that time DGW was a little less on the price tag.
Seems to be a helluva lot easier to load and unload than the one I bought from Taylor’s Firearms in Winchester, VA !!!
How much bullet jump is there? Are the .45 Colt cartridges long enough to completely fill the chambers like on a Peacemaker?
There is about a 5/16" of a jump.
Did the frame need milled out for the converter? Or does it just pop on usually?
The cylinder actually needed to be trimmed off some in order to fit properly. I had this professionally done.
I was thinking of buying one of these. Can these replicas handle smokeless .45 Colt with the conversion cylinders?
Yes as long as you use cartridges that are cowboy loads, smokless powder pressures that are comparable to black powder pressures. No hot loads.
Replace the loading lever with the Kirst ejecter rod assembly. They go for around $150 and now that you're shooting cartridges there is really no need for the loading lever.
They were always out of stock when I looked for them.
That sucks. Still a nice pistol. I'm sure you can figure out a way to get the loading lever to stay in place.
How did you ejected the cartridges from the cilinder? You did it like if was a Colt SAA.
I just let gravity do the work while I shake them out. If they wont fall on their own, then I use a stiff wire or plastic rod.
Is that a Stetson broken bow hat?
I've been looking at that one to replace my 20 year old Bailey marfa 6x that has seen better days...
Do you like it?
It is a Stetson Buffalo XXXX 100% wool and I like it.
So I'm assuming kirst wont mill out the back plate to accept cartridges. If not what tools did you use to do this. What type of dremel for this material?
Kirst's gun smith can or there are other smith's that will do it as well. I had Kirst's smith do mine.
@@INeverMetAGunIDidntLike right on. thanks!
Ha, ha, no powder, no primers! But how many Karen's did you just set off! Funny
Quand vous convertissez une arme, quelle type de cartouche utilisez-vous? Je veux dire, sont-elles chargées avec de la poudre noire, et à combien de grammes ? Merci.
Does your loading gate have a little wiggle to it?
It does at times but all I have to do is remove the cylinder and tighten up the screw that holds it on to the plate.
How'd you get those casings out? You just shake them out?
You can until the fouling gets to be too much then punch them out with a pencil or anything else that fits.
I do prefer the Uberti 1860 colt and the Howell conversion cylinders but the Kirst converters are interesting even though for maximum effectiveness they really do need the factory modification. The Howell conversion cylinders work best with uberti remington new model army .44 repros. As always with colts it's a given that they will hit high so you gotta aim about 3 inches low at 30 to 45 feet distance
I was looking at that and eventually just bought an Uberti Richards II conversion in .45 Colt. You get an ejection lever on a straight 1860 frame. Better looking than the Richards-Mason conversion.
Edit/Addition: It was the revolver used by Selleck in the movie "Last Stand at Saber River" as a post-War Between the States gunsmith conversation.
Is the dragoon conversion the same as the Walker?
No, the cylinder on the Walker is longer.
How much are these new minus conversion?
Probably a little over $400.
How much is the conversion revolver?
You have to buy the revolver then the conversion cylinder.
Can these Uberti Dragoons handle hot loads?
I know if you load black powder and ball then you can go a little hotter than other .44 caliber revolvers but as for the Kirst Konverter, they recommend using the equivalent of cowboy action loads.
🟢 Hi buddy, I'm not in the US, I need a link to buy the gun and drum.
If a gunsmith forgot to reblue and part of my gun I’d be a little upset to be honest. Not very much attention to detail and that urks me… especially if you’re paying the man. You shouldn’t have to fix it yourself after. And just to have that loading lever fall after every two shots sucks too. He should’ve called you and offered to fix that if he knew what he was doing. Maybe he doesn’t get a lot of old revolvers idk. Most people I know who sent theirs to a gunsmith they fixed the loading lever without asking cause they knew this would happen on walkers and dragoons
Replace the latch with one from an 1860 Army.
I wedged a small piece of rubber between the barrel and loading lever and now it stays put under recoil.