Charlie, great idea on how to remedy a very nasty problem. That little plastic piece will save many headaches. One trick I am going to remember. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Brilliant tutorial Charlie, again; this has been a nemesis for me, nearly all my points are old and second hand. This modification has not only saved me replacing all my twenty points but saved me a fortune in the process, many, many thanks, keep up the excellent work.
Good day Charlie ,again another great presentation and you made a lot of good "points" ha ! ha!,thats the second time ive seen your phone ring as you are ding vid ,love the way you roll your eyes and say "that will be the phone then!!!!" keep em coming Charlie ,Take care ,Mac
nah no need to turn it off as you fan club wont be able to get hold of you and you need it for your photography business , its all part of showing you just a normal down to earth guy.
Bloody brilliant! That's just sorted out the most annoying Peco Code 75 point in the universe (which just happened to be on my layout!). My railway room is going to be a far less sweary place as a result. Thanks for that Charlie - much appreciated.
As a thought for modern image layouts, the plastic could be painted orange to look like cable trunking. Great video as always, can’t wait to see the ‘finished’ layout in years to come. Thanks, Owen.
Timely video. Took a Drumel to my blades in the hidden fiddle yard only last week! But had not thought about the movement issue will take another look. Also found a couple of blades with a slight twist and or low vs the stock rail.
Evening Charlie watched your video about the evergreen strips for improving points l found some on ebay but I used it to get better contact for my train tech sensor signals prongs that go between the sleepers and rails and it was a success so I would recommend it to your other viewers who want better contact with train tech sensor products like signals thanks for showing this product on your channel it has lots of possibilities for model railways Thanks again Best wishes Kev Beighton Parkway
I have just completed my layout and observed this exact problem on the facing Peco points. I implemented your suggestions on one of them and it worked great. Thanks.
Hello, Charlie! What a pleasure to meet a man full of information, rather than himself. (The unfortunate outfall of giving such a platform to every ebullient chap in need of "stardom.") Thanks so much for these informative tips. I'm just considering modeling in 009, and this is just the sort of encouragement I need. I must say that another of your McKinley colleagues, David Townend, has caught my attention for the same reasons: calm, informed, vastly experienced, and most pleasant. Kudos to the both of you. And best wishes for a brilliant 2022 from a new fan "across the pond." FH - Reinbeck, IA, USA.
Over in the US I work on a layout called the Turtle Creek Railroad. This layout is unusual in that it is made up of moderately difficult switching puzzles strung onto each other and when you operate you run from town to town switching every one. As such we have about 250 peco turnouts of all shapes and sizes and well over half feed power thru the points. A common problem we have is dust, stray ballast, etc. collecting on various points of the turnout impeding power flow. Our late track superintendent's solution to this problem was a magic toothbrush. Whenever a turnout was acting up, a good scrub with Carl's magic toothbrush solved most any problem.
Ahh, the light-bulb has come on! I had a really troublesome point on my last layout, and I've worried my plan may fail because of these issues, but you have just shown me how to solve my problems with this simple and elegant solution! Thanks Charlie!!
after watching this Im going to check the club layout for the blade movement . we have 3 areas of occaisional derailments on tacing points. thanks for another excellent tip
just started in the hobby (at 72) really enjoying and learning so much, not sure if i've been a bit overambitious but have started out with N gauge and i've got fingers like pork sausages but i'm persevering with it
Another terrific video with lots of really helpful tips, described and explained in such a way, even beginner modellers like me feel like I want to try to make these changes and be confident doing so. Brilliant. I SUBSCRIBED!!
Brilliant video Charlie I had the same problem but just got me dremmil and put a bit of packing in to support it between the rails and ground back the edge of the blades slightly didn’t realise the switch rails had moved back, a good tip keep finding these please.
At last, thank you for your tips and hints, it's great to have someone talk about derailment. I thought it was me! Well yes it was but not entirely, so I'm very grateful. Thank you
Hello there Charlie. I commented on a previous video about improving Lima internally framed Siphon Gs with Bachmann BR Mk1 (B1) bogies. I was on a forum about them and a lot of guys are talking garbage. As a NER buff (who runs loads of ex GWR Siphons), if I'm going to pass comment on GWR I first off do my research. If you look at GW Siphons ( HMRS Slinn and Clarke) and refer to page 103 you will see a line drawing of the GWR 8'6" ex articulated stock bogie and it is identical to the BR B1 bogie. The Lima Siphon G is built to GWR Diagram 0.33. The GWR 8'6" ex articulated coach bogie was used under Diagrams 0.33, 0.59, and M.34. This was the bogie which formed the design concept for the BR Mk1 (B1) bogie and the two bogies are virtually identical aesthetically. So using Bachmann Mk1 B1 bogies under Lima inside framed Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs would be just abous as near as d..n it prototypically accurate.
Hi David, thanks for the background detail. The book starts at £25 used so I’ll give that one a miss. With my Siphons I’m trying to replicate a diverted rake passing through Castle Cary hauled by a Hymek. My collection of Bachmann bogies is slowly expanding. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway: Hi there Charlie. I've had a copy of the book for a while as being a NER guy I wanted to get my Siphons correct as good research is essential to reasonably good modelling (I mean good not to the point of counting rivets). I get hacked off with 'rivet counters' pointing out that my Lima Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs are not correct because of the bogies as they should have GW 'American' bogies'. When I point out that no they shouldn't as the GW 8'6" ex articulated stock bogies ran underneath many of the Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs (on which the Lima model is based) and that this is the bogie on which the BRMk1 B1 bogie is based and is aestheticaly no different to the GW bogie (the only difference was the spring strength) then they shut their mouths as the hole they have dug themselves is already deep enough.
verry fine job, Charlie I am sure your trains will roll verry smoothly on this point . I appreciate the use of a precision file.thanks a lot for this tip.
Thank you very much Charlie, I will have to wait till the morning. But I certainly am having those problems with 2 of my switches. This has highlighted an area I had not thought of. Thanks once again from Australia.
Hi Charlie, very useful info and I have had to trim one of my N gauge points in the past. Didn’t put the rod in so I must go back to it and fix it in. Many thanks for sharing as this is invaluable info to know..Chris
Charlie, Thank you so much for this easy tip for Peco points. As well as fileing the toe end of the blades I find some of the points also can have a slightly rough edge where the pressed metal blades touch the rail section in the center of the point. Just gently rub your finger over this area and you'll soon notice this rough edge. To fix this I cut a 75mm x 20mm strip of cork ( road bed ) and glue a strip of 800 grade emery paper to this. Then a few rubs over the area will soon smooth it out. My major problem at the moment is Peco's Smartswich system. Having bought all the bit's all wired in, motors work trains run straight threw. Throw the point all dead. The wiring diagrams for this system are very poor. At the other end of the layout I'm using Tortoise point motors. Plug in wire up all running as sweet as a nut, go figure. I'm using Peco Electro Frog points. Sorry to moan on . Cheers, Chris Perry.
Excellent! Thanks Charlie. I have 4 Peco 3 way points but fortunately they are only in areas such as the loco shed where trains pass over them at very slow speed - so far they seem to be OK.
Charlie - Thanks for the tips on getting the pecos reliable and for all your very helpful videos. I had similar problems when resurrecting my HO gear to return to the hobby after many years away. I had four old Atlas switches, the ones with the actual rails, not the bent sheet metal kind, and a bunch of newer ones that have the bent metal points. My old switch machines were rusted solid but the newer ones worked. The problem was that approaching from the point side would eventually result in a derailment. After many attempts to adjust the switch machines over the course of a couple of years by following advice from the internet did little to solve the problem, I finally was able to get these old switches reliable. Here's what to do: 1: check the plastic frogs for wear. Either file the plastic or use styrene plastic inserts to recondition them, On my switches I only needed to file the plastic to recondition the pointy end on the frogs. This should reduce the chances that wheels will "pick" the frog; 2: file the ends of the points for a better fit against the stock rails; 3: Check the height of the movable points and shim them if they are too low. This, along with step 2, lessens chance that wheels will "pick" the points ( I think so anyway) ; 4: if the rivets are loose where the rails pivot they can be made snug using superglue. Apply a small amount of liquid s.g. to the edge of the rivet and move the points back and forth until the glue sets. This should get rid of some of the slop while still allowing the points to pivot. Newer Atlas switches use a different design for the pivots. You can also use a punch and anvil to snug them up but be careful; 5: this is the big one - throw away the old switch machines and get new solenoid or other type of switch machine. The supplied switch machines will not reliably hold the points against the stock rails! If you purchase new Atlas switch machines, don't get the switches that include the switch machine. If you care to, watch my video on the switch machine problem and a solution on my channel. I have video on fixing the frogs as well but it is awaiting editing and uploading. Since I've made these repairs to the worst switch on my test track several months ago I've not had a single derailment, even running my old Mantua "Mike" 2-4-2 over it at full chat! Hope this is of some use. -Dave
Thanks Charlie. Forgot one: 6: Check the track gauge. Pay particular attention to the diverging point rail as well as the straight point rail as they can warp over time. Carefully bend them back into gauge. Also I neglected to emphasize that the derailments also occurred regularly when running the non-diverging points setting. Oh, if you watched my video, I found the missing spring on the carpet about a week ago. It just suddenly appeared. Go figure! -Dave
I use Tortoise motors, I use 0.9 mm wire for the activation of the point. I also mount the point motor so that a slight tension is put on the blade holders so that it cannot do what yours have done. However I also use solenoid motors so I will be modifying those points. Thanks its a good tip.
Great tip Charlie! Good timing too. I am still laying track. My turnouts are made to be removed from the track work by allowing the track joiners to slide under the rails thus allowing the turnout to be easily removed. That way I can make adjustments when needed. I model with O-16.5 Peco track for American narrow gauge I will incorporate the fix while rewiring the turnouts for DCC. Nothing ruins a video more than locos and rolling stock jumping up as the train passes through a turnout. One thing about narrow gauge is the lack of complicated track. 3 way turnouts would have been too expensive for a logging or mining railway to employ. Gives me a valid excuse not to use those on my layout. Tip: Occasionally there is that annoying gap between sections of rails that is usually discovered later causing rolling stock to visibly bounce as it passes over the gap. Usually it occurs when bending flex track around curves. Sometimes we don't notice it until all the curve is laid. One might think the only way to fix it is to pull up the track to adjust for it. Instead one can use little squares of Evergreen styrene to fill the gap, glue it in with super glue, then file it to the contours of the rail. A little rust colored paint will hide it. Have you done a video discussing track expansion and contraction due to changes of temperature in the train room? Also, why one should not let direct sunlight through a window fall on the layout? Thanks for posting the materials list in the comments section. My only local hobby shop closed here October 31st. I did buy up a lot of scenery materials and Atlas Code 83 HO track to strip out for bridge guard rails. I found a source for the Evergreen styrene on eBay.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My layout is indoors too. However, the temp in that room can be as much as 82 degrees in the summer so, I keep a portable A/C unit in there during the summer. During the winter the temp can drop as low as 60. I do not think that room was insulated when it was built.
What a great idea with the styrene strips. I did not even know the curved turnouts had such a problem , and my plan is to have 5 of them in total. One other thing, after much suffering with trying to bend over my layout to do something to the points that I should have done earlier, I know inspect and test any new points being put in at my work desk. I also tend to give them a start at weathering while there as that avoids my having to lean over my layout just to do weathering. YMMV.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well, if you insist upon continuing posting such excellent videos then I feel compelled to find them useful. The answer is quite simple, drop severely the quality of your videos and I will stop being impressed.
Thanks, Charlie, I installed the last seven points on my layout last month... I wish you had made this video much earlier... Still, I have down loaded it for reference and added it to my collection. I will also buy a stock of Evergreen strip next wekk - just in case!
Excellent tips Charlie - a very nice modification! I'm installing Peco turnouts on my layout now - this info was very timely for me! Thanks for sharing. Best, John
Thanks for this idea Charley, checking Evergreen's catalogue they make a .030" x .060" x 14" / .75mm x 1.5mm x 35cm version as well - if a slightly wider strip is needed. It's part number is 133.
If you leave the springs in the tie bar does not move backwards. I removed all the springs from 009 points on a new layout I was building to be controlled by servos only to find the blades were falling out so had to put all the springs back in, not vert easy with all the track laid. On my OO layout with servo controlled points the points not click over with the springs still in the servo stops this. You should be able to do this with your tortoise motors as well. I have 6 x three way points and they do not give any problems but they are Peco code 75 and these are a different type of three way point. Cheers Alec
Hi Charlie thanks for publishing this video it's been most helpful as I too had a couple of problem points armed with this information I will put your tips to good use. I also use a 3 way point but have no issues with that.
Thanks Charlie for another great informative video. I have 2 Peco Code 100 3 Way Turnouts (Points) on my layout. One worked perfect and still does strait out of the box. The other one constantly derailed on selecting left turnout direction. The place I buy most of my stuff from sent out the same day a replacement. Received it a few days later, Installed it and worked perfect. Since then have never had a problem with them and my layout gets a work out. I think it is the luck of the draw just like anything you get good ones and bad ones.
Charlie is dead on with his suggestions. I would like to share from my personal experience dealing with Peco Turnouts what I have observed. 1) Do not under any circumstances make them a tight fit. Give them some wiggle room. Any pressure on them by a tight fit will cause them to bend/flex and in turn derailments. 2) Do not force them to lay flat. If it doesn't want to fine, if it does fine also, makes no difference in performance, let the turnout decide. Once again forcing them to lay flat if they do not want to will cause them to bend/flex and you got it derailments. 3) Sometimes no mater how hard you try nothing works, a defective turnout is just plain defective but rare for Peco.
I have 5 Hornsby points plus the motors, the motors work how they should of the points but when the points are fitted they don’t work at all .thank you Kevin
Thanks for another useful video, Charlie. I think part of this problem is that some years ago PECO made the code 100 tiebars narrower. I have been using PECO code 100 track & points for 40 years & the tiebars on my older points are wider than current products. Also the blades are probably being produced from quite old moulds (or however they are made) as PECO don't seem to check that the blade ends are profiled correctly. A final point is that too many new wagons have incorrect back to back measurements. I find this is especially the case with plastic axles. Recent brand new Bachmann tank wagons were all "out of gauge" & had to be reset. Once reset I also put a little superglue on the inside of the wheel/axle which seems to keep them in gauge.
Hi Charlie. My problem with peco 100 points is the gap at the end of the frog. It acts as a small well for the wheels on locos and wagons to dip into like a pothole in the road when your car hits it. I've cured that by doing away with peco 100 and changed all my track and points to peco 75. Much better now.
You have showed the (hopefully) answer to a lot of problem solving I believe for pointwork. Avoidance of 3 way & slips too ;-) Thank you for another informative video Charlie. Iain
I've also got a custom build double slip installed and it is fitted with a range of extra drop wires leading towards the Dcc ring feed or the tortoise point motors (I'm a huge fan of them) It might seem overkill but in the end the double slip never gives me any trouble.
I had problems with certain carriages and wagons coming off on PECO points. Not tried this yet, but will take a look at the points. I got around it by fitting 14mm wheel sets. The gap appeared too long at the end of the Frog and the wheel dropped down into it (12 &13 mm wheel sets) Replacing the wheels did the job! :-)
Hi Charlie, another brilliant tip to try! as yet to put any track down, corresponded with you a short while ago re back to ‘basics’ in would love to see how you do your back to back points as understanding facing/trailing etc plus insulating /wiring. Kind regards Eddie🤓
Hello Charlie, I have done this to peco and it can help on atlas turnouts also. The atlas are very loose on the slide and by adding a piece of styrene it gives more tension and operates better. Anyway this is just one of the many problems with turnouts ...good vid.
More sound advice cheers Charlie. I can't remember ever having any issues with my code 75 Peco points, I did however switch the frog polarity which is what I have to do on my hand built track anyway. Its certainly not a waste of time, if it solves the issues you are having, its a no brainer to carry this out.
Excellent video Charlie. Haven't laid the track that will require points yet but they are Peco Electrofrog and will most certainly adopt the plastic insert. Dread to think about trying to do anything after being ballasted !!! Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
I run a DC layout which has peco and scratch built turnouts both with electro frogs. If you allow the points only, to set the power for the two tracks, when trailing the points, the loco on the track that the point is set against will sometimes move when the other loco gets near it. This should not happen if you study a diagram of the polarity of the rails. Both rails of the track that the point is set against are of the same polarity, both positive or both negative depending on how the layout is wired. In the 60 years I have been modelling no one has been able to offer me an explanation for this. My method is to use insulated fish plates on the frog rail extensions, connected to a dpdt centre off toggle switch to kill the power to those frog rails. The levers of the switches give a visual indication of which track the power is set for or if it is off.
Brillant!!! Absolutely Brillant!!!! I have been having issues like this for the past week on my layout and now you have answered the burning question, should I buy new switches, I am glad that I saw this, thank you, Sir.
Such a simple solution but effective. Thanks Charlie. It would be good if Peco could supply some matching 'coloured' strips, but then that would probably be construed as an admission their product was not quite perfect.
I'd never have thought about that kind of modification Charlie, thank you for sharing it. The plastistrut seems like a worthwhile thing for sure, I am past the point where I can do it on my layout but I am planning an exhibition one which will include 2 or 3 code 75 curved points, so this seems like a must. Until the next video, Alex.
Removal of the spring can also cause these issues as well. When installing my Cobalt point motors I tend to place the motor slightly back towards the closure rails thus causing the thin metal throw rod to bend slightly and therefore places pressure on the rails to keep them forced back at the hinge. (if that makes any sense!)
I’ve been having the exact same problem when removing the springs to install cobalt motors. Was almost at the point (no pun!) of reverting to solenoids so I could leave the springs in place. Hopefully retrofitting these evergreen strips solves the problem. Thankfully I’ve not ballasted the track yet so should be able to slide them in.
Thank you for your guidance on point derailments. My points are Peco 009 and, by and large, they are fine. However, I have two which a a bit naughty. Like you explain, back-to-backs need checking first and are all OK. The pony-truck on the occasional loco, decides to jump the track, as it meets the switch rail. As a result, when it meets the frog, it decides to follow the divergent route, whilst the driving wheels follow the correct route. It does appear to stem from the switch-blade standing proud of the stock-rail by the tiniest amount, so I will try your solution, thank you.
It is interesting that purchased products must be customized/fixed by the customer. Personally, I avoid Peco just by the one that I experience as unfinished quality, preferring Tillig and Roco trace material. Thanks for a nice video about a problem and how it is fixed to.
Very ingenious solution to the blade movement issue! Please commend McKinley Railway for me! Filing the tip of the blade can go a long way in improving performance.
Hi Charlie. I’ve had the same problem which is made worse when you remove the Peco springs for Tortoise/Cobalt style slow motion devices. I too have tried plastic strips but find that it binds the tie bar meaning the tortoise points actuator(being quite thin), bends more and can’t push the tie bar fully across. An alternative solution that DCC Concepts recommends for Cobalts is to bend the actuator wire so that is pushes the tie bar towards the nose of the crossing/frog and thus keeps the blades in their proper position. Another solution I have used in my fiddle yard is a bent piece of piano wire in the four foot on top of the sleepers with one end poked down the central hole of the tie bar and the other bent round a track pin about 6 or 7 sleepers towards the nose/frog. I’m about to start on code 75 Peco points on the scenic part of my layout and I think there is less of an issue with them as they are hinged/fixed at the end and can’t move forward. So that’s my favourite solution: use Peco code 75 and avoid Peco code 100! Hugh
Hey Sean, Charlie may, or may not, confirm this but you may have to use a different size of plastic strip for N gauge. Being half the size, there will be less clearance. I would be interested to know how you get on if you do try this fix.😊 Cheers, Dougie.
Very useful Charlie. I am going to the train room later..it would be interesting to see if thisworks in N Gauge. I am already modifying my points with a tiny piece of plasticard to stop wheels dropping into the vee of the electrofrog. Cheers, Bob
Hi Charlie. This is again a very useful and informative video. I've used peco code 100 track and live frog points for a number of years without any real problems. Providing the points are laid perfectly flat they should be ok . Having said that, occasionally I've had to adjust the plastic catch rails by bending the ends in a little. Why they don't make these out of metal I don't know. The only serious issue was with Dapol six wheeled milk tank wagons that kept derailing and I ended up fitting Bachmann wheels and the problem was solved. Apparently this is a common complaint with these wagons. Keep well and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
Hi Charlie, never considered this one. IS this because we remove the spring? I do see the end piece from its mounting on the operator to where it fits into the main rail maybe slightly bent inwards so it does not fit into the cut out in the main rail, maybe bend out a smidgeon [very very small amount] or file off the end as you did. I run my thumb over the inside of the rail, if I can feel a bump it needs a bend or a file. Many thanks for all your good work, you have made railroading life easier for everyone. regards Bob
Slightly off topic, but, here in the States, the quality of "cocktail sticks" available at supermarkets is pretty abysmal. Randomly hard, randomly soft. And, of course, never long enough. There is an answer, though, at the market--Bamboo skewers. About $1.50 for 50-100, about 30cm long, and a multitude of uses. If a trifle hard for getting drop of CA glue moved about. Now, if you can find a "restaurant supply house" you can get "sandwich skewers" in a couple sizes. These are those lovely long (like 75mm) sticks used to hold a sandwich or burger together for service. Usually either Lime or Box wood, and very even in grain consistency--a modeler's boon. Downside being having to get restaurant quantities--250 or 500 in a batch. But, the lag bag I bought was $3.75 for 500--many thanks, Kosco Supply.
Put some inward tension on the point motor shaft, this will ensure the blades never go out of range. this is the main reason the point motor metal shaft is bendable
I've noticed a problem with Peco N gauge points, where the point blades meet the frog. When a train is going into a point, towards the frog, taking the diverging route, the wheel flanges tend to get caught, as it seems Peco uses a smaller width rail for the moving point blades. This create a small ridge on the inside of the rail where the two join. When a train is taking a straight route this is not an issue. However if the train is taking the DIVERGING route, the wheels rub the rails, hit this ridge and jump the track. Hopefully that makes some sense...? :P
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you. I know it from the film. But what I mean it is, in my opinion, the second best solution. The best solution is to keep the turnout tongues in place by a precise mounting of the point motor.
Charlie with your coupling probllems why don't you use SYMOBA close couplings they have a NEM pocket on the extention for KD couplings to just clip them in what ever extention variation you need I use them on my marklin wagons and coaches they are available in UK produced in Germany maybe expensive but worth looking at I am a great fan 😁 of programs good luck regards len marks Cape town South Africa
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Fairly new to this Charlie coming back into it at 62 !!! my layout still under development a few videos can be seen on youtube Robley Town.
It would be interesting to know whether Peco’s new Unistrut points which are replacing Electrofrog and Insulfrog solve the problems. In some other ways they are improvements. With regard to the filing, the way I have seen this done is to file the main rails to increase to size of the notch in the rails so the switch blade sits in the notch and does not interfere with the loco wheels. That method probably also helps stopping the blade moving forward as it is held in the notch. Love your videos and presentation style.
Very interesting.... The few issues that I have, were put down to lack of weight on certain rolling stock. A bit late for me doing the plastic strip - 98% of track laid and ballasted but I can look at doing the point blades.
Charlie, great idea on how to remedy a very nasty problem. That little plastic piece will save many headaches. One trick I am going to remember. Thanks for sharing. Ken
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ken.
Brilliant tutorial Charlie, again; this has been a nemesis for me, nearly all my points are old and second hand. This modification has not only saved me replacing all my twenty points but saved me a fortune in the process, many, many thanks, keep up the excellent work.
So pleased that you found it useful.
Instablaster
Good day Charlie ,again another great presentation and you made a lot of good "points" ha ! ha!,thats the second time ive seen your phone ring as you are ding vid ,love the way you roll your eyes and say "that will be the phone then!!!!" keep em coming Charlie ,Take care ,Mac
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it MT. One day I’ll learn to turn the phone off!
nah no need to turn it off as you fan club wont be able to get hold of you and you need it for your photography business , its all part of showing you just a normal down to earth guy.
Bloody brilliant! That's just sorted out the most annoying Peco Code 75 point in the universe (which just happened to be on my layout!). My railway room is going to be a far less sweary place as a result. Thanks for that Charlie - much appreciated.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it BC1
As a thought for modern image layouts, the plastic could be painted orange to look like cable trunking.
Great video as always, can’t wait to see the ‘finished’ layout in years to come.
Thanks,
Owen.
Thanks Owen you’re too kind.
Thankyou. Very useful and I'll be doing these improvements on my N Gauge layout in preparation to using servo point motors
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting. Regards Charlie
Timely video. Took a Drumel to my blades in the hidden fiddle yard only last week! But had not thought about the movement issue will take another look. Also found a couple of blades with a slight twist and or low vs the stock rail.
Good spot Howard. Regards Charlie
Evening Charlie watched your video about the evergreen strips for improving points l found some on ebay but I used it to get better contact for my train tech sensor signals prongs that go between the sleepers and rails and it was a success so I would recommend it to your other viewers who want better contact with train tech sensor products like signals thanks for showing this product on your channel it has lots of possibilities for model railways
Thanks again
Best wishes
Kev Beighton Parkway
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Kev.
I have just completed my layout and observed this exact problem on the facing Peco points. I implemented your suggestions on one of them and it worked great. Thanks.
That’s exactly what this community is about. Brilliant.
Hello, Charlie! What a pleasure to meet a man full of information, rather than himself. (The unfortunate outfall of giving such a platform to every ebullient chap in need of "stardom.") Thanks so much for these informative tips. I'm just considering modeling in 009, and this is just the sort of encouragement I need. I must say that another of your McKinley colleagues, David Townend, has caught my attention for the same reasons: calm, informed, vastly experienced, and most pleasant. Kudos to the both of you. And best wishes for a brilliant 2022 from a new fan "across the pond." FH - Reinbeck, IA, USA.
What a heartwarming comment Frederick. Good luck with your 009 project and best wishes for 2022.
Regards Charlie
Over in the US I work on a layout called the Turtle Creek Railroad. This layout is unusual in that it is made up of moderately difficult switching puzzles strung onto each other and when you operate you run from town to town switching every one. As such we have about 250 peco turnouts of all shapes and sizes and well over half feed power thru the points. A common problem we have is dust, stray ballast, etc. collecting on various points of the turnout impeding power flow. Our late track superintendent's solution to this problem was a magic toothbrush. Whenever a turnout was acting up, a good scrub with Carl's magic toothbrush solved most any problem.
Thanks Charlie, that’s very interesting.
Ahh, the light-bulb has come on! I had a really troublesome point on my last layout, and I've worried my plan may fail because of these issues, but you have just shown me how to solve my problems with this simple and elegant solution! Thanks Charlie!!
That’s great news John, regards Charlie.
after watching this Im going to check the club layout for the blade movement . we have 3 areas of occaisional derailments on tacing points.
thanks for another excellent tip
Is the three-way points that are the worst John, so keep an eye on those. Regards Charlie
Just found your channel and it it a gold mine... thank you so much.
I’m so pleased that you have found the channel useful. Regards Charlie
very good video, I have 2 3-way points and fortunately they have been very reliable in the 8 years that they have been installed.
You’re a lucky man Simon, every time I’ve bought one of those points I’ve had problems.
just started in the hobby (at 72) really enjoying and learning so much, not sure if i've been a bit overambitious but have started out with N gauge and i've got fingers like pork sausages but i'm persevering with it
N-Gauge can be a bit of a struggle AM. I wish you good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
Great little video and went out on my railway and slid several point blades back.
That’s great Peter.
Another terrific video with lots of really helpful tips, described and explained in such a way, even beginner modellers like me feel like I want to try to make these changes and be confident doing so. Brilliant. I SUBSCRIBED!!
It’s great to have you onboard Chris
Excellent video Charlie!!
Fantastic tips for correcting point problems (and making sure that wheels are gauged properly!!)
Cheers Derek
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it DL.
Brilliant video Charlie I had the same problem but just got me dremmil and put a bit of packing in to support it between the rails and ground back the edge of the blades slightly didn’t realise the switch rails had moved back, a good tip keep finding these please.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Michael.
Top tip Charlie. I don't currently have any big problems but I shall store this one away in the memory bank for the future. Cheers.
Thanks Davie, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
At last, thank you for your tips and hints, it's great to have someone talk about derailment. I thought it was me! Well yes it was but not entirely, so I'm very grateful. Thank you
Thanks Paul , I’m so pleased that you found it useful mate. Regards, Charlie
Hello there Charlie. I commented on a previous video about improving Lima internally framed Siphon Gs with Bachmann BR Mk1 (B1) bogies. I was on a forum about them and a lot of guys are talking garbage. As a NER buff (who runs loads of ex GWR Siphons), if I'm going to pass comment on GWR I first off do my research. If you look at GW Siphons ( HMRS Slinn and Clarke) and refer to page 103 you will see a line drawing of the GWR 8'6" ex articulated stock bogie and it is identical to the BR B1 bogie. The Lima Siphon G is built to GWR Diagram 0.33. The GWR 8'6" ex articulated coach bogie was used under Diagrams 0.33, 0.59, and M.34. This was the bogie which formed the design concept for the BR Mk1 (B1) bogie and the two bogies are virtually identical aesthetically. So using Bachmann Mk1 B1 bogies under Lima inside framed Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs would be just abous as near as d..n it prototypically accurate.
Hi David, thanks for the background detail. The book starts at £25 used so I’ll give that one a miss. With my Siphons I’m trying to replicate a diverted rake passing through Castle Cary hauled by a Hymek.
My collection of Bachmann bogies is slowly expanding.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway: Hi there Charlie. I've had a copy of the book for a while as being a NER guy I wanted to get my Siphons correct as good research is essential to reasonably good modelling (I mean good not to the point of counting rivets). I get hacked off with 'rivet counters' pointing out that my Lima Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs are not correct because of the bogies as they should have GW 'American' bogies'. When I point out that no they shouldn't as the GW 8'6" ex articulated stock bogies ran underneath many of the Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs (on which the Lima model is based) and that this is the bogie on which the BRMk1 B1 bogie is based and is aestheticaly no different to the GW bogie (the only difference was the spring strength) then they shut their mouths as the hole they have dug themselves is already deep enough.
Great stuff David.
verry fine job, Charlie I am sure your trains will roll verry smoothly on this point . I appreciate the use of a precision file.thanks a lot for this tip.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Pierre. Regards Charlie.
Thank you very much Charlie, I will have to wait till the morning. But I certainly am having those problems with 2 of my switches. This has highlighted an area I had not thought of. Thanks once again from Australia.
Thanks Ian, I’m so pleased that you have found it useful.
Very timely tip. I’m about to start laying track on my new layout.
Thank you
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Hansfriess.
Hi Charlie, very useful info and I have had to trim one of my N gauge points in the past. Didn’t put the rod in so I must go back to it and fix it in. Many thanks for sharing as this is invaluable info to know..Chris
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris.
Charlie, Thank you so much for this easy tip for Peco points. As well as fileing the toe end of the blades I find some of the points also can have a slightly rough edge where the pressed metal blades touch the rail section in the center of the point. Just gently rub your finger over this area and you'll soon notice this rough edge. To fix this I cut a 75mm x 20mm strip of cork ( road bed ) and glue a strip of 800 grade emery paper to this. Then a few rubs over the area will soon smooth it out. My major problem at the moment is Peco's Smartswich system. Having bought all the bit's all wired in, motors work trains run straight threw. Throw the point all dead. The wiring diagrams for this system are very poor. At the other end of the layout I'm using Tortoise point motors. Plug in wire up all running as sweet as a nut, go figure. I'm using Peco Electro Frog points. Sorry to moan on . Cheers, Chris Perry.
Tortoises should rule the world!
Excellent! Thanks Charlie. I have 4 Peco 3 way points but fortunately they are only in areas such as the loco shed where trains pass over them at very slow speed - so far they seem to be OK.
That’s good news TJ. I was coaching stock and steam locos that were the worst for me.
Charlie - Thanks for the tips on getting the pecos reliable and for all your very helpful videos.
I had similar problems when resurrecting my HO gear to return to the hobby after many years away. I had four old Atlas switches, the ones with the actual rails, not the bent sheet metal kind, and a bunch of newer ones that have the bent metal points. My old switch machines were rusted solid but the newer ones worked. The problem was that approaching from the point side would eventually result in a derailment. After many attempts to adjust the switch machines over the course of a couple of years by following advice from the internet did little to solve the problem, I finally was able to get these old switches reliable. Here's what to do:
1: check the plastic frogs for wear. Either file the plastic or use styrene plastic inserts to recondition them, On my switches I only needed to file the plastic to recondition the pointy end on the frogs. This should reduce the chances that wheels will "pick" the frog;
2: file the ends of the points for a better fit against the stock rails;
3: Check the height of the movable points and shim them if they are too low. This, along with step 2, lessens chance that wheels will "pick" the points ( I think so anyway) ;
4: if the rivets are loose where the rails pivot they can be made snug using superglue. Apply a small amount of liquid s.g. to the edge of the rivet and move the points back and forth until the glue sets. This should get rid of some of the slop while still allowing the points to pivot. Newer Atlas switches use a different design for the pivots. You can also use a punch and anvil to snug them up but be careful;
5: this is the big one - throw away the old switch machines and get new solenoid or other type of switch machine. The supplied switch machines will not reliably hold the points against the stock rails! If you purchase new Atlas switch machines, don't get the switches that include the switch machine.
If you care to, watch my video on the switch machine problem and a solution on my channel. I have video on fixing the frogs as well but it is awaiting editing and uploading.
Since I've made these repairs to the worst switch on my test track several months ago I've not had a single derailment, even running my old Mantua "Mike" 2-4-2 over it at full chat!
Hope this is of some use.
-Dave
Well what a great and detailed comment Dave.
Some great advice.
Thanks Charlie.
Forgot one:
6: Check the track gauge. Pay particular attention to the diverging point rail as well as the straight point rail as they can warp over time. Carefully bend them back into gauge.
Also I neglected to emphasize that the derailments also occurred regularly when running the non-diverging points setting.
Oh, if you watched my video, I found the missing spring on the carpet about a week ago. It just suddenly appeared. Go figure!
-Dave
Some great points you made on how to improve your turnouts. Thanks for your help!
You’re most welcome Joe.
I use Tortoise motors, I use 0.9 mm wire for the activation of the point. I also mount the point motor so that a slight tension is put on the blade holders so that it cannot do what yours have done.
However I also use solenoid motors so I will be modifying those points. Thanks its a good tip.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Sam.
Great tip Charlie! Good timing too. I am still laying track. My turnouts are made to be removed from the track work by allowing the track joiners to slide under the rails thus allowing the turnout to be easily removed. That way I can make adjustments when needed. I model with O-16.5 Peco track for American narrow gauge I will incorporate the fix while rewiring the turnouts for DCC. Nothing ruins a video more than locos and rolling stock jumping up as the train passes through a turnout.
One thing about narrow gauge is the lack of complicated track. 3 way turnouts would have been too expensive for a logging or mining railway to employ. Gives me a valid excuse not to use those on my layout.
Tip: Occasionally there is that annoying gap between sections of rails that is usually discovered later causing rolling stock to visibly bounce as it passes over the gap. Usually it occurs when bending flex track around curves. Sometimes we don't notice it until all the curve is laid. One might think the only way to fix it is to pull up the track to adjust for it. Instead one can use little squares of Evergreen styrene to fill the gap, glue it in with super glue, then file it to the contours of the rail. A little rust colored paint will hide it.
Have you done a video discussing track expansion and contraction due to changes of temperature in the train room? Also, why one should not let direct sunlight through a window fall on the layout?
Thanks for posting the materials list in the comments section. My only local hobby shop closed here October 31st. I did buy up a lot of scenery materials and Atlas Code 83 HO track to strip out for bridge guard rails. I found a source for the Evergreen styrene on eBay.
Thanks S98. My layout is in doors so I don’t have heat expansion issues. You’ll have to ask elsewhere.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My layout is indoors too. However, the temp in that room can be as much as 82 degrees in the summer so, I keep a portable A/C unit in there during the summer. During the winter the temp can drop as low as 60. I do not think that room was insulated when it was built.
What a great idea with the styrene strips. I did not even know the curved turnouts had such a problem , and my plan is to have 5 of them in total.
One other thing, after much suffering with trying to bend over my layout to do something to the points that I should have done earlier, I know inspect and test any new points being put in at my work desk. I also tend to give them a start at weathering while there as that avoids my having to lean over my layout just to do weathering. YMMV.
myyou tubeacct I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well, if you insist upon continuing posting such excellent videos then I feel compelled to find them useful. The answer is quite simple, drop severely the quality of your videos and I will stop being impressed.
Thanks, Charlie, I installed the last seven points on my layout last month... I wish you had made this video much earlier... Still, I have down loaded it for reference and added it to my collection. I will also buy a stock of Evergreen strip next wekk - just in case!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Thank you for your video. Perfect timing. I now have to do some mods to my points before laying my storage yards tomorrow morning.
Great timing Hamish.
Top tip for superglue, keep it in the fridge and it never goes off or clogs up the top.
Wow, I never knew that.
Superglue needs moisture to make to work, fridges these days are very dry so it’s a great place to store it.
Excellent tips Charlie - a very nice modification! I'm installing Peco turnouts on my layout now - this info was very timely for me! Thanks for sharing. Best, John
I’m so pleased that you found it useful John.
Great tip Charlie , If I have any issues with any of my Pico turnouts I hope I remember your tips and tricks .. Thanks Charlie, Jim
Thanks Jim, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Thanks for this idea Charley, checking Evergreen's catalogue they make a .030" x .060" x 14" / .75mm x 1.5mm x 35cm version as well - if a slightly wider strip is needed. It's part number is 133.
Thanks Paul , great info, I shall check it out. Regards Charlie
If you leave the springs in the tie bar does not move backwards. I removed all the springs from 009 points on a new layout I was building to be controlled by servos only to find the blades were falling out so had to put all the springs back in, not vert easy with all the track laid. On my OO layout with servo controlled points the points not click over with the springs still in the servo stops this. You should be able to do this with your tortoise motors as well.
I have 6 x three way points and they do not give any problems but they are Peco code 75 and these are a different type of three way point.
Cheers Alec
Hi Alec, thanks for the info.
Your points are called isometric I believe. Clearly much better than the old Code 100 that I “treasure “!
Hi Charlie thanks for publishing this video it's been most helpful as I too had a couple of problem points armed with this information I will put your tips to good use. I also use a 3 way point but have no issues with that.
Hi Giles, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Thanks Charlie for another great informative video. I have 2 Peco Code 100 3 Way Turnouts (Points) on my layout. One worked perfect and still does strait out of the box. The other one constantly derailed on selecting left turnout direction. The place I buy most of my stuff from sent out the same day a replacement. Received it a few days later, Installed it and worked perfect. Since then have never had a problem with them and my layout gets a work out. I think it is the luck of the draw just like anything you get good ones and bad ones.
An interesting point B68, thanks.
Charlie is dead on with his suggestions.
I would like to share from my personal experience dealing with Peco Turnouts what I have observed. 1) Do not under any circumstances make them a tight fit. Give them some wiggle room. Any pressure on them by a tight fit will cause them to bend/flex and in turn derailments. 2) Do not force them to lay flat. If it doesn't want to fine, if it does fine also, makes no difference in performance, let the turnout decide. Once again forcing them to lay flat if they do not want to will cause them to bend/flex and you got it derailments. 3) Sometimes no mater how hard you try nothing works, a defective turnout is just plain defective but rare for Peco.
I have 5 Hornsby points plus the motors, the motors work how they should of the points but when the points are fitted they don’t work at all .thank you Kevin
Sorry Kevin, but I have no Hornby points or Hornby point motors. Perhaps you could ask on a Facebook page.
There's always something useful a new to be learned. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it OF.
Thanks for another useful video, Charlie. I think part of this problem is that some years ago PECO made the code 100 tiebars narrower. I have been using PECO code 100 track & points for 40 years & the tiebars on my older points are wider than current products. Also the blades are probably being produced from quite old moulds (or however they are made) as PECO don't seem to check that the blade ends are profiled correctly.
A final point is that too many new wagons have incorrect back to back measurements. I find this is especially the case with plastic axles. Recent brand new Bachmann tank wagons were all "out of gauge" & had to be reset. Once reset I also put a little superglue on the inside of the wheel/axle which seems to keep them in gauge.
Interesting points Pat, thanks.
You are a great modeller. I am learning a lot from you. Thank you.
It’s comments such as yours SGM, that make it worthwhile.
Hi Charlie. My problem with peco 100 points is the gap at the end of the frog. It acts as a small well for the wheels on locos and wagons to dip into like a pothole in the road when your car hits it. I've cured that by doing away with peco 100 and changed all my track and points to peco 75. Much better now.
A useful tip CPR. I would too if I were starting afresh.
Nice one Charlie - simple but effective. The simple tweaks are always the best. Can we have more Chadwick and less McKinley please?!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Randal.
You have showed the (hopefully) answer to a lot of problem solving I believe for pointwork. Avoidance of 3 way & slips too ;-) Thank you for another informative video Charlie. Iain
Thanks Iain, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I've also got a custom build double slip installed and it is fitted with a range of extra drop wires leading towards the Dcc ring feed or the tortoise point motors (I'm a huge fan of them)
It might seem overkill but in the end the double slip never gives me any trouble.
Hey, if it works, great.
Always nice to learn. Thanks Charley
So pleased that you enjoyed it Charles
Great video Charlie and perfect timing as my track is down and weathered but not ballasted yet. Now another project before I ballast!
Hey, great timing Dan
I had problems with certain carriages and wagons coming off on PECO points. Not tried this yet, but will take a look at the points. I got around it by fitting 14mm wheel sets. The gap appeared too long at the end of the Frog and the wheel dropped down into it (12 &13 mm wheel sets) Replacing the wheels did the job! :-)
An interesting option Anthony.
Hi Charlie, another brilliant tip to try! as yet to put any track down, corresponded with you a short while ago re back to ‘basics’ in would love to see how you do your back to back points as understanding facing/trailing etc plus insulating /wiring. Kind regards Eddie🤓
It’s on the long list Edward.
Your a star!🤓
Good advice Charlie, I had a bad turnout and wound up tossing it. I wish I knew then what you just showed everyone.
Thanks James, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Hello Charlie, I have done this to peco and it can help on atlas turnouts also. The atlas are very loose on the slide and by adding a piece of styrene it gives more tension and operates better. Anyway this is just one of the many problems with turnouts ...good vid.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Adrian.
More sound advice cheers Charlie. I can't remember ever having any issues with my code 75 Peco points, I did however switch the frog polarity which is what I have to do on my hand built track anyway. Its certainly not a waste of time, if it solves the issues you are having, its a no brainer to carry this out.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Nige.
Hi Charlie, thanks for showing those tips I wouldn’t have known about that issue, and I would have been pulling my hair out. Kind regards alex
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Excellent video Charlie. Haven't laid the track that will require points yet but they are Peco Electrofrog and will most certainly adopt the plastic insert. Dread to think about trying to do anything after being ballasted !!! Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Thanks Rick, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
I run a DC layout which has peco and scratch built turnouts both with electro frogs. If you allow the points only, to set the power for the two tracks, when trailing the points, the loco on the track that the point is set against will sometimes move when the other loco gets near it. This should not happen if you study a diagram of the polarity of the rails. Both rails of the track that the point is set against are of the same polarity, both positive or both negative depending on how the layout is wired. In the 60 years I have been modelling no one has been able to offer me an explanation for this. My method is to use insulated fish plates on the frog rail extensions, connected to a dpdt centre off toggle switch to kill the power to those frog rails. The levers of the switches give a visual indication of which track the power is set for or if it is off.
Hi Roland, I think the use of your switches is the only sensible way of doing it.
At least it removes any uncertainty.
Regards Charlie
Great practical tips. Appreciated Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Off to check a troublesome point thanks to your info Charlie!
Good luck Kev.
Brillant!!! Absolutely Brillant!!!! I have been having issues like this for the past week on my layout and now you have answered the burning question, should I buy new switches, I am glad that I saw this, thank you, Sir.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it SBRR
Thank you for taking the time to make the video Charlie, informative as always
Thanks, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Great video and very informative, thank you Charlie so much
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Graham.
Absolutely brilliant tip. Timely as ever.
Thanks Tony, you’re too kind.
Such a simple solution but effective. Thanks Charlie. It would be good if Peco could supply some matching 'coloured' strips, but then that would probably be construed as an admission their product was not quite perfect.
But it only takes a drop of paint Richard. Regards Charlie
Thanks for the info will now attempt a couple of n gauge points that are giving ttrouble on my layout. Thanks
Good luck Shaun.
Great tip. Many thanks.
You’re welcome AN
I'd never have thought about that kind of modification Charlie, thank you for sharing it.
The plastistrut seems like a worthwhile thing for sure, I am past the point where I can do it on my layout but I am planning an exhibition one which will include 2 or 3 code 75 curved points, so this seems like a must.
Until the next video, Alex.
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found it useful
Excellent video and great advice, I shall be checking my suspect points now
Good for you Gary.
Good tip there Charlie, I'll take that on board and check what few points I have on my layout. Thank you for your advice.
Cheers
Geoff
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Geoff.
Removal of the spring can also cause these issues as well. When installing my Cobalt point motors I tend to place the motor slightly back towards the closure rails thus causing the thin metal throw rod to bend slightly and therefore places pressure on the rails to keep them forced back at the hinge. (if that makes any sense!)
That makes perfect sense Richard.
I’ve been having the exact same problem when removing the springs to install cobalt motors. Was almost at the point (no pun!) of reverting to solenoids so I could leave the springs in place. Hopefully retrofitting these evergreen strips solves the problem. Thankfully I’ve not ballasted the track yet so should be able to slide them in.
Great tip Charlie , I use peco as well , the narro gauge . Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bert.
Thanks Charlie, for the tip.
You’re most welcome Peter.
Always a great hints....thanks for sharing....Jack
You’re welcome Jack.
Thanks Charlie
You’re most welcome mate. Regards Charlie
Thank you for your guidance on point derailments.
My points are Peco 009 and, by and large, they are fine. However, I have two which a a bit naughty. Like you explain, back-to-backs need checking first and are all OK. The pony-truck on the occasional loco, decides to jump the track, as it meets the switch rail. As a result, when it meets the frog, it decides to follow the divergent route, whilst the driving wheels follow the correct route. It does appear to stem from the switch-blade standing proud of the stock-rail by the tiniest amount, so I will try your solution, thank you.
John, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Such great information Charlie - thankyou.
My pleasure John. Regards Charlie
It is interesting that purchased products must be customized/fixed by the customer. Personally, I avoid Peco just by the one that I experience as unfinished quality, preferring Tillig and Roco trace material.
Thanks for a nice video about a problem and how it is fixed to.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Thanks, Charlie. Layout pending.
Good luck with your project NBA.
Great video, it's a goer for me as I'm in process of rebuild....
Great Richard, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Very ingenious solution to the blade movement issue! Please commend McKinley Railway for me! Filing the tip of the blade can go a long way in improving performance.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Flyboy.
Hi Charlie. I’ve had the same problem which is made worse when you remove the Peco springs for Tortoise/Cobalt style slow motion devices. I too have tried plastic strips but find that it binds the tie bar meaning the tortoise points actuator(being quite thin), bends more and can’t push the tie bar fully across. An alternative solution that DCC Concepts recommends for Cobalts is to bend the actuator wire so that is pushes the tie bar towards the nose of the crossing/frog and thus keeps the blades in their proper position.
Another solution I have used in my fiddle yard is a bent piece of piano wire in the four foot on top of the sleepers with one end poked down the central hole of the tie bar and the other bent round a track pin about 6 or 7 sleepers towards the nose/frog.
I’m about to start on code 75 Peco points on the scenic part of my layout and I think there is less of an issue with them as they are hinged/fixed at the end and can’t move forward. So that’s my favourite solution: use Peco code 75 and avoid Peco code 100! Hugh
Thanks for the info Hugh.
I always use thicker piano type wire on my tortoises.
Thank you for the tip Charlie, I have same problem with a couple of my n scale turnouts. I will surely check them out for this problem.
Hey Sean, Charlie may, or may not, confirm this but you may have to use a different size of plastic strip for N gauge. Being half the size, there will be less clearance. I would be interested to know how you get on if you do try this fix.😊
Cheers,
Dougie.
Interesting, N must be more difficult.
@@ChadwickModelRailway it is especially when the eyesight isn't as good as it use to be
Spot on! Thanks.
Thanks Russell, regards Charlie
Very useful Charlie. I am going to the train room later..it would be interesting to see if thisworks in N Gauge.
I am already modifying my points with a tiny piece of plasticard to stop wheels dropping into the vee of the electrofrog. Cheers, Bob
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
Hi Charlie. This is again a very useful and informative video. I've used peco code 100 track and live frog points for a number of years without any real problems. Providing the points are laid perfectly flat they should be ok . Having said that, occasionally I've had to adjust the plastic catch rails by bending the ends in a little. Why they don't make these out of metal I don't know. The only serious issue was with Dapol six wheeled milk tank wagons that kept derailing and I ended up fitting Bachmann wheels and the problem was solved. Apparently this is a common complaint with these wagons. Keep well and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
Chris I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Hey, Charlie! Missed seeing you! Great pointers on modifying these switches for better reliability. Looking forward to the wiring video from McKinley!
Thanks Pat, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie, never considered this one. IS this because we remove the spring? I do see the end piece from its mounting on the operator to where it fits into the main rail maybe slightly bent inwards so it does not fit into the cut out in the main rail, maybe bend out a smidgeon [very very small amount] or file off the end as you did. I run my thumb over the inside of the rail, if I can feel a bump it needs a bend or a file. Many thanks for all your good work, you have made railroading life easier for everyone. regards Bob
What a heartwarming comment Bob. I was just trying to take out the play manufactured into the switch rails.
Very impressed most helpful 😎
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Slightly off topic, but, here in the States, the quality of "cocktail sticks" available at supermarkets is pretty abysmal. Randomly hard, randomly soft. And, of course, never long enough. There is an answer, though, at the market--Bamboo skewers. About $1.50 for 50-100, about 30cm long, and a multitude of uses. If a trifle hard for getting drop of CA glue moved about. Now, if you can find a "restaurant supply house" you can get "sandwich skewers" in a couple sizes. These are those lovely long (like 75mm) sticks used to hold a sandwich or burger together for service. Usually either Lime or Box wood, and very even in grain consistency--a modeler's boon. Downside being having to get restaurant quantities--250 or 500 in a batch. But, the lag bag I bought was $3.75 for 500--many thanks, Kosco Supply.
Now there’s an interesting option.
Put some inward tension on the point motor shaft, this will ensure the blades never go out of range. this is the main reason the point motor metal shaft is bendable
An excellent point (excuse the pun).
I've noticed a problem with Peco N gauge points, where the point blades meet the frog. When a train is going into a point, towards the frog, taking the diverging route, the wheel flanges tend to get caught, as it seems Peco uses a smaller width rail for the moving point blades. This create a small ridge on the inside of the rail where the two join. When a train is taking a straight route this is not an issue. However if the train is taking the DIVERGING route, the wheels rub the rails, hit this ridge and jump the track. Hopefully that makes some sense...? :P
It makes perfect sense Billy. Try and file the switch blade to make it a finer fit.
This solution does not let the switch move smoothly Charlie. It is better to mount the switch motor very precise.
This stops the switch rails from migrating towards the toe end.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you. I know it from the film. But what I mean it is, in my opinion, the second best solution. The best solution is to keep the turnout tongues in place by a precise mounting of the point motor.
Great tip Charlie, will be doing this to all my peco points
Glad to help John.
Charlie with your coupling probllems why don't you use SYMOBA close couplings they have a NEM pocket on the extention for KD couplings to just clip them in what ever extention variation you need I use them on my marklin wagons and coaches they are available in UK produced in Germany maybe expensive but worth looking at I am a great fan 😁 of programs good luck regards len marks Cape town South Africa
Thank you Charlie well presented video clear instructions. keep on educating us.
You’re too kind Rob.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Fairly new to this Charlie coming back into it at 62 !!! my layout still under development a few videos can be seen on youtube Robley Town.
I’ll check it out Rob.
It would be interesting to know whether Peco’s new Unistrut points which are replacing Electrofrog and Insulfrog solve the problems. In some other ways they are improvements.
With regard to the filing, the way I have seen this done is to file the main rails to increase to size of the notch in the rails so the switch blade sits in the notch and does not interfere with the loco wheels. That method probably also helps stopping the blade moving forward as it is held in the notch.
Love your videos and presentation style.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Andrew.
Very interesting.... The few issues that I have, were put down to lack of weight on certain rolling stock. A bit late for me doing the plastic strip - 98% of track laid and ballasted but I can look at doing the point blades.
But you can still check those blades for movement
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you, I will.