Great engine and great truck I have my 94 f350 7.3 idi and I drive it more then my 23 f250 the older the better it’s got 225k km so it’s got about 140k miles lots of life left
The glow plugs/controller are a constant headache on these, as I'm sure you've deduced. Some other common problems are the fuel tank selector valve, broken injector return fittings, and cylinder cavitation. As for the lack of fuel in the filter, I like to take the return off and blow a little air down the line. Not a lot, you don't want to inflate the tank, but it'll push fuel through the entire system. At that point it's just a matter of bleeding the delivery lines in the normal way. I've also found that sometimes, even with fully charged batteries, they don't spin fast enough to push the air out of the high pressure side of the pump. A shot or two of your starting aid of choice and it'll bleed. It would be wise to do that with the glow plugs disconnected. Now, cavitation. I'm not sure if it was thin cylinder walls or people not keeping up with coolant changes. Cooling system maintenance is imperative on these. SCAs are your friend.
You prob won’t get much fuel from the shrader valve without turning the key over. These mechanical fuel pump need the crank to turn in order to send fuel. Easiest way to see if you have a good fuel pump Or not is the crack the fuel like that run right into the fuel filter housing and lay a rag or something under ut and go crank it over for 10-20 seconds and see if fuel came out. I just got one running after it say for 3 years. I replaced fuel pump and glow plugs now it starts every time
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Great engine and great truck I have my 94 f350 7.3 idi and I drive it more then my 23 f250 the older the better it’s got 225k km so it’s got about 140k miles lots of life left
The glow plugs/controller are a constant headache on these, as I'm sure you've deduced. Some other common problems are the fuel tank selector valve, broken injector return fittings, and cylinder cavitation.
As for the lack of fuel in the filter, I like to take the return off and blow a little air down the line. Not a lot, you don't want to inflate the tank, but it'll push fuel through the entire system. At that point it's just a matter of bleeding the delivery lines in the normal way.
I've also found that sometimes, even with fully charged batteries, they don't spin fast enough to push the air out of the high pressure side of the pump. A shot or two of your starting aid of choice and it'll bleed. It would be wise to do that with the glow plugs disconnected.
Now, cavitation. I'm not sure if it was thin cylinder walls or people not keeping up with coolant changes. Cooling system maintenance is imperative on these. SCAs are your friend.
Thank you. I'll be referencing this a few times as I get to working on it. It's 101° here and I'm battling the heat.
If you need wiring schematics or other specs, I have them.
Electrical bugs are gonna be more of a challenge than those dead carburetor bugs , go get'm !!!🐛🐞
You prob won’t get much fuel from the shrader valve without turning the key over. These mechanical fuel pump need the crank to turn in order to send fuel. Easiest way to see if you have a good fuel pump
Or not is the crack the fuel like that run right into the fuel filter housing and lay a rag or something under ut and go crank it over for 10-20 seconds and see if fuel came out. I just got one running after it say for 3 years. I replaced fuel pump and glow plugs now it starts every time
It sprays like a fountain when turning the key; moving on from there, I believe the issue to be the glow plug system.
Don’t use auto lite glow plugs. They swell really bad. Use motocraft zd29 I believe is what you want