Making a Huge Waterblock from Scrap Copper -Trash to Treasure
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- čas přidán 3. 03. 2022
- I Design, Cast, and Machine a huge water block from scrap Copper to cool a very large and intense surface mount COB LED chip for an insanely bright LED light engine I'm building.
First I get the scrap copper, Design my part in CAD, then I melt and cast the metal into a mould, Machine it and finish it in the CNC mill and finally cut out a see-through back cover with the waterjet to see inside of the water block as its working
Originally I was going to buy solid pieces of metal and machine my parts, but unfortunately all of the material that I need, the size I need it is not available for probably at least a few months.
That's why I decided to take scrap copper, melt it down in a furnace and shape it into what I need to make my parts and I now have my light engine fully operational at full power.
Fun Fact: Any static in this video was caused by 12μm Carbon dust that made its way into my camera and equipment...fun times.
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Watch this in 4k when possible, it looks incredibly awesome !
Carbon 12
www.c12.tv
Produced By: Carbon 12
Directed By: Matt Mikka - Zábava
Is it me or this should have been done in one single uninterrupted pour as allowing for the metal to start to cool down and solidify before another pour will result in less than ideal properties (aka transition zones prone to cracking/easier to break)? *Just asking, definitely not my area of expertise
He was saying that it was too heavy and he was losing his grip.
He recast it 2 more times to get it right... says in the video
Very true, I was wondering why there wasn't a separation in the machined part, then he mentions it was the 3rd casting because the first one had separated.
@@kingcosworth2643 Yey to basic physics based logic :)
It looks like he worked around that by superheating the final pour over the furnace to allow the whole item to re-melt into one item
Every man‘s dream: Have all the machinery and tools and you can build almost anything from scratch.
Very inspirational! 👍
I knew when you stopped pouring you were going to have to make a new pour lol. Thanks for clarifying that when you were done milling, most content providers would have just said " and here's the final product, turned out great" this is why I like your channel, plus I watch you and can see your wicked smart. Your very inspiring. Keep up the great work. I've missed your videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! Yeah I kind of knew too when I was pouring it, I was like oh s***, but it was really heavy and I was losing my grip which is why I set it down and repositioned. But that gave it enough time to cool and become a solid. Thanks I appreciate it!
@@WarpedPerception you have a great channel I really liked the diesel powered go cart and then same cart jet powered great stuff man I love all your videos
@@byker4lyfe1 bring the diesel kart back!
Great thing! Did the mould survive all the casting tests or were there some more?
You're*
I'm curious: Wouldn't it be easier to cast a simple cuboid of copper and then mill out the fine structure? Milling the fine structure in the graphite mold seems counterintuitive.
Maybe playing with molten copper and building new skills is the goal. 🤷♂️
Yeah probably counter intuitive but got the same result lol
Yes you're right, that's what I wanted to do in the first place but I was fighting the problem of aeration, and the larger the volume of the casting the more chance of air in the final part, and since I wanted to end up with a very beautiful looking part I wanted to minimize air as much as possible.
I'd say this was the right way to do it. While casting a solid block would seem to be the easier option, it has some pretty big disadvantages. Firstly, the sheer amount of raw copper needed, which isn't the cheapest material (I know he's using scrap, but why use more than needed). Then there's the time to machine out the desired shape. Also, copper is notorious for not being easiest material to work with.
@@byrond8592 the air is the problem, the large you go the more air you will get, by staying small with the cross-sectional dimensions of the cast I reduce or completely eliminate the air contamination to get a solid part with no air or pitting. as you pour into a small cavity the liquid copper is protected from the air. that's one reason why they roll large bars of copper instead of casting.
Great engineering accomplishment while also very educational and entertaining!
Thanks this one was really tough.
@@WarpedPerception you are great engineer 👍
@@WarpedPerception What was that mixture you made 7:28 and why use it? It looked like Silicone/RTV and something else.
@@mmellow51 Probably mineral spirits or toluene to thin down the silicone so he could put on a really small even bead. The screws around the edge are doing all the clamping so the silicone is just there to seal.
I am really IMPRESSED with the quality of that 3rd casting
Thank you
Same. It looks like a production item with how clean it came out
Watching how complicated the casting process was just blows my mind that they were doing it 6000 years ago. That must have been a lot of trial and error. Amazing!
6000 years ago the process is like euv today
When an LED requires that level of liquid cooling, that alone speaks volumes about how powerful it is. This is obviously geared to the professional market, because those slow motion shots are amazing, and flicker free.
Showing failures is good. Working past them is better. Showing how you did it, the best.
Thank you, considering that I almost gave up on this project, I appreciate that
@@WarpedPerception I am no expert, but I have watched a lot of people pour and cast copper (and other metals) into various shapes, and it is a RARE thing to see them end up looking this good. Third attempt or Thirteenth attempt. I think that your "through the flux" technique really helped keep the dissolved oxygen out of the copper. But man, those thin channels? INSANE.
He's literally making an artificial sun, with such a high CRI, colours won't look washed out, imagine office lights to actual sunlight, it's amazing. Also, I absolutely love molten copper.
You got it, this light in particular at 2 ft distance is six times brighter than the sun at the subject. I obviously have to diffuse it and treat it a little bit which takes away some brightness. But yeah the CRI of this is amazing and you said it perfectly, the colors won't look washed out they would look very natural, and an office with high CRI lights would probably be amazing to work in. Typically they use fluorescent lights which are very green in color and the CRI sucks probably like 80. If you ever see a fluorescent lamp with a spectrometer it's green is off the charts.
@@WarpedPerception I've been wanting to build a custom light for my aquariums. To replicate the sun is my ultimate goal with it. This is so amazing! The applications for this kind of technology is limitless.
I love lighting to say the least! It's crazy how just the spectrum alone can change the whole mood of a room! There's an artist named James Turrell who uses light as the medium for all his works. He literally warps your perception of everything from depth to color. I know that chip is experimental, but maybe you could point me in the direction of a similar chip?
You have no idea how happy it made me to see you properly heat that copper and graphite before pouring it. So many people can't get copper to that super high temp it needs to flow and never even heat the graphite then wind up with crap.
Well done.
Thank you, yep that's for sure the graphite conducts way too much heat plus you don't want any moisture. But you know what's up
Is this because copper is so thermally conductive and loses heat fast?
As an engineering student, this is the content I love to see. I love learning the process and you explaining mistakes that you've made, why they happened, and how you've corrected them is exactly what most engineering project channels on CZcams lack. Thank you and congrats on the cast!
It warms my heart to see someone who cares about QUALITY as much as quantity. Great work!
I’m continuously blow away, awestruck & inspired by the amazing level of intelligence, ingenuity, know-how, creativity & extensive range of talents this dude has! An absolute badass of a human being!
When I worked for a copper smelter (ASARCO) in the early 80s we had 3 types furnaces Reverb, Converter and Anode. When we did a pour of the copper out of the Anode furnace the moldes were preheated. Also we used green douglas fir inserted part way in and used a air piston to drive the inserted end of the log to the bottom below the copper surface. This helped to remove entrained O2 from the copper. Anodes were about 86% copper and went on to the refinery.
Details on why the failed castings are definitely the most valuable to anyone wanting to begin casting. Also the transformation from scrap bin into the finished machined part was awesome!
Outstanding. Every project you do is cool AF. Looking forward to you describing the significance of the type of light you are using.
Awesome to see good engineering process.
Just my 2 cents, if you put the inlet for the coolant low on one side, and high on the other it may work even more efficiently. I think currently the coolant is pretty much just moving across the centre of the core. We had the same issue with our race car intercooler, when we moved the inlet and outlet, we saw a very big change in our intake temps. :-)
Makes sense. Better liquid distribution over the heat sink.
Watching your videos is like watching Gandalf do his stuff - every single episode, without fail, is inspirational, useful and entertaining. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks!
Anything made out of copper looks great in my opinion.
I just noticed his right hand is missing a finger, this tells me he has alot of full time experience in engineering. Love to be your assistant. Love all your videos 👍
Oh man. This would be great for my large tesla coils' bridge.
Awesome work!
I'm gonna check that out is that on your channel?
@@WarpedPerception yes, it i!!! His channel is amazing. Im a big fan
@@WarpedPerception great video by the way. Thank you for sharing. I friend of mine had an amazing idea to machine graphite like that. I would like to share with you.
Ok feel free to share, you can DM me on Instagram or email "Carbon12TV at Gmail Dot Com"
Thank you glad you liked it .. it was so much work
Quick tip for calculating the amount of copper you need: Create the actual part in f360 alongside the mold, set the physical material, then check the body's properties for the volume & weight you need. No maths needed :)
Thanks, I should have done that, I didn't actually think of it. But at the end it was okay because I wanted to make it sort of visual where people could understand instead of just hiding behind the software calculations. But honestly if I would have thought of it I probably would have went that route since I did have an actual part drawing before even the mold.
I love watching this guy - his mannerisms and accents reminds me so much of my two college roommates from South Jersey. Plus he is brilliant and a heck of a machinist, mechanic, welder/fabricator, and really knows his electronics. Dang good filmmaker too. Glad I found this channel.
Skill, knowledge, patience and having the right tools. The recipe for success.
With all the machining involved, would it be more cost efficient and easier to cast a slab of copper and then mill it all out?
Yes absolutely
Have you milled copper? If he broke drills and taps how well would milling have gone?
Very nice work! I love how clean the finished product came out! The design of the block could be adjusted to get a more even flow across all of the channels, increasing the heat exchange. As it is now, the upper rows wont get as much flow through them as the coolant wont want to fight gravity to go through those channels. Placing the inlet in the top corner and the outlet on the opposing bottom can help this immensely. It could let you cut down on some material too if you end up making a bunch of these for this experimental LED. But hey, if it works it works!
I was actually thinking the opposite with the inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top.
I feel like having the inlet at the top could cause the water in the other top corner and around the center to stagnate because the cold water would want to sink straight down, then across rather than trying to flow across the fins. Having the inlet at the top would at least evacuate the hottest water first.
It might even be best to place the inlet right over the center so the center always gets the coolest water.
That being said, I ain't no scientist so I could definitely be wrong haha
If he made the waterblock side that the led mounts on a mirror finish it would have helped alot in transferring the heat as well. I'm not sure what he used as a TIM but if it the block was as smooth as possible it would have needed less and cooled better.
Thanks for the great videos. I can appreciate the hard work and patience you put into these videos.
I have never seen anyone hold a pen like you do. Good video. 10/10
At my job we design medical devices, and spend a lot of time working on heat transfer blocks. I've yet to see an optimized block that had a lot of straight parallel lines. The best ones always look organic. Sometimes a straight-lines block is selected because of manufacturing cost, but they never perform as well as the ones that make our prototype shelf look like an H. R. Giger alien autopsy.
So, based only on the visual appearance of your block, I suspect that your design is not optimal, but I can't use our expensive machines at work to confirm it. Maybe contact one of the generative design software suppliers? They might be willing to design a part for you, just for the publicity of having you compare it to the straight-lines design.
Great point!, And you are absolutely correct about the parallel lines. However in this case I needed more flow, and I did in fact computer simulate all of my designs before making them. So one of the bigger issues I faced was the tooling I had to use to cut the slots with the max RPM I have available is not well suited to cut intricate shapes at that depth and level, I would have had to change my tooling very often. And with a very lengthy machine times I did not want to babysit this thing for 10 hours. But yeah the type of machine I had to use had a huge Factor in my final design, I also needed a higher flow rate and less pressure drop between the inlet and the outlet of the block. Your spot on though, that was a good comment.
@@WarpedPerception If you want to squeak a little more performance out of your cooling loop, either add a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to it with a maybe a single drop of soap, or get a bottle of water wetter... It will help with the boundary layer flow by acting as wetting agent to allow even greater heat transfer. It doesn't take long for it to work either, put it in, and maybe 2-3 minutes depending on your flow rate to get everything distributed, you should be able to see it change.
Might be an idea for a video if you can add it to a stable system while the pump is running, like add it to the reservoir once you hit your steady state 122F... see how much it changes.
@@kleetus92 are you into pc building by any chance, I have never heard someone mention this and I wonder if its viable in a PC water loop in terms of longevity.
@@TurkeyOW I am. It will work in any water based heat transfer system. My first time seeing it was in high performance car applications where the cooling system was being pushed to the limit, even with a bigger radiator. It may not solve all your problems, but it will give a few extra percent of heat transfer. You can buy a product literally called 'water wetter' in car parts stores... it's a clear redish pink liquid, apply per instructions.
@@TurkeyOW you may not see any significant improvement in PC application where we're deaing with very light loads (only a few undred watts), compared to car engine cooling.
Also, acrylic parts hate alcohol :) it's generally advised not to use alcohol in custom loop coolants, or clean those parts with alcohol based cleaning solutions.
Dude! Your channel is absolutely insane, loved every second of this video!
Thanks!!
Son of a biscuit I am simply enamored with your process, production, and product. Literally my favorite content creator on the planet 🔥
Love your project videos.. Keeps the mind curious.. Thanks.
notification squad, Have a nice weekend guys!🔥🔥🔥
Thanks you as well !
I would drill and tap a hole on top of the water block and use a bolt with a o ring to seal it, just to make priming the block easier and ensure its totally full
That's a great point, however since I want this to be a maintenance free device, I'm actually redesigning that back cover to allow it to automatically bleed and fill, this back cover was just for the video
@@WarpedPerception Awesome! I can't wait to see the completed version.
I would also use a flexible sealant like Hylomar or instant gasket to seal the cover onto the block as the coefficient of thermal expansion of acrylic is about 4x that of copper.
Love me some high efficiency led cobs
Absolutely gorgeous piece! It's a work of art and science
Mount the cooler so the fins are vertical so you get even flow over all the fins.
I am wondering why you went through the whole struggle with the graphite mold and the nasty dust everywhere, instead of machining it from solid copper or using a lost mold made of sand?
My question too! Whats the answer?
I assume he just didn't think about it at the time. You can't really say the mold reduced Machining time since he took like 12 hours to Machine the graphite anyway.
You are a very clever man. I am in awe of your technical versatility.
Thank you for the copper casting tip about adding extra flux to the crucible first, heating the flux till its melted then adding the copper //
That's a Nichia turbo array led prototype?!? I think yes! What an absolute unit here! New level! To be used in IMAX projectors etc! It's amazing - how can I get my paws on one of these? Love it!
Wouldn’t you get better heat transfer from copper to coolant if the intake and exhaust ports for the coolant were offset? (Intake at the top left and exhaust at the bottom right for example)
Intake at bottom, exhaust at top for better effect. ( Heat rises, self venting, counter current circulation to a larger surface area of the copper block)
i was thinking that as well, plus microfinning (probably wouldnt even need to be that "micro") all the horizontal channels to dramatically increase the actual surface area and help with heat transfer.
@@za7v9ier yup and you will get more even flow when the pressure of the water is forced up.
glad to see you used copper wire, it is always the cleanest copper 'scrap' that you can get.
I'll have to say this is really cool that you took the time to be precise.
Every time you melt down the copper you burn off impurities to make it pure.
It's really bright you can't see your hand. I can only imagine what happens at night.
Be safe team
Thank you !
Beautiful work!
What was the solvent used to dissolve the silicone?
Mineral spirits... Nice trick not many know. Also goop and toluene work well but that solvent is nasty stuff.
Had the same question. Super thanks
*this man is the definition of an Engineer going God Mode.* 💪🏻🔥
Thank you !
Very very impressed by that casting. Well done! 👏
Dudes got one man army but for machining and making things. Guy could do anything
I've got no words. Just great! very impressive!I i enjoyed seeing it very much
Awesome to see, and I like your thought process on keeping air out of the copper.
I love your work mate! you inspire me to keep pushing the boundaries of making, and to keep learning. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the tip about the flux before melting the copper to keep out gasses. Awesome channel.
Your welcome! And thank you
Such a cool thing to do :) , I tried to do a copper pour the other day for some fun and found out the crucible i was using had some layer on the inside that bubbled out and copper is now stuck inside it...lesson learnt to check max temp before using as i have had other get holes over time but never that (pre-heating is always a must)
You've been teasing your subscribers about for so long, it's cool to see the finished product and the full design process behind it.
I know I had no choice I was so behind on this project, but finally it's behind me and the jet powered Tesla and the four months that the Tesla was broken down, time to move on to some free flying fun videos now
@@WarpedPerception Can't wait!
usted vive el sueño de todo ingeniero, vivir para crear, construir, aprender y compartir con orgullo todo lo adquirido por el bien de la humanidad, mis respetos señor, usted es fenomenal
I wondered why you needed such a bright light. Very cool video!
For a couple of reasons but mostly I'm aiming to create some mind-blowing high-speed videos... Been working with high-speed stuff for a long time now and the biggest problem is lighting.
Wow Matt! You keep raising the bar on showcasing a mix between technology, wrenching, creating, and imagination. I wish people grasped how impressive what you do is considering you aren’t working at a multi billion dollar R&D company.
Thanks! Yeah the last few episodes I've been trying to make them hybrids. Doing exactly what you said , next thing I'm going to be working on is just making more videos and making it more organic so I can be more myself and more of a character. A lot of times I'm very rigid because I need to make sure I hit all of my points throughout the video to keep the story solid, especially with complicated subjects. This is necessary for me to show the videos I'm going to be showing in the near future where I'm going to let people into some of my actual projects.. thanks for the kind words!
Beautiful! Need this for my Vaio Laptop!
Very cool, did a better job thermal engineering than most full timers.
Thanks, it was rough but now works very well and I fulfilled the contract.
Thank you for sharing your learning process with us! Saves me time when i go to do this kind of thing myself. I learned; use flux BEFORE hand, when it fully melts, then add your metal
Yes that method worked amazing for me.
Thats bright as hell. What a cool project
Definitivamente muy interesante, tienes un excelente canal 👍👍👍
awesome....Glad to have you back making videos.
Thanks! I'm glad to have finally pulled everything together now
Wow this channel never ceases to amaze me. They always make me want to get off ass and do something. Thank you again for bringing this content to the people
Just quit a job where i was machining all sorts of heatsinks just like this but out of blocks we extruded, so seeing it done basically backwards from nothing is pretty neat
Epic video. Thanks for sharing the fails too. That thing is a piece of art. It's got me thinking I may be able the make my own radiator for my old car
This was both inspiring and entertaining. I am now going to capitalize on this and stop procrastinating.
Insane, why not?! Lol love the attention to detail
"I'm not Tony Stark!" Great Job!!! Love your channel
Followed the posts you were posting, and you blew my expectations away. This is what the Slo-Mo guys need when filming in 1M fps.
yes, thank you!. no, I need this light when I'm filming 1M FPS, Slow-mo Guys need more ideas and to unblock me from commenting on their channel, also they need to stop combing my comments section for ideas....LBVS
On the Water cooled Copper heat sink, the water input connector should be placed further to the top and the output water should be placed lower. This would ensure all the water was being replaced, and not only some. This would help with the cooling.
May your hardwork and ideas bear fruit soon
This was really cool, and a much better heatsink than anything I've seen "home-made" elsewhere - like Linus Tech Tips or similar. Great project and result and learning process along the way, subscribed!
Another good one Matt. Always intriguing to watch you work.
Rock That Silly String! ftw
Wonderful work and definitely worth the wait! Love your videos!
Dude you are smart and such a great job putting these videos together takes a lot of time and hard work I'm sure. So thank you!
Freaking Amazing. The slow motion was as sharp as that knife.
Thank you
That's a friggin great idea! Great light!
Solid copper water tubing and a larger radiator/pump will knock those temps down (this only will help if it's more a static install).
Ellerinize sağlık çok güzel işçilik teprikler
2 relative easy sugestions to make it even colder: 1. Install input (or incoming stream) fitting on lower part and output fitting on upper part of plexiglass.(BC thermodynamics say that cold gas/liquid is allways at bottom and warmer allways at top, with my suggested setup You should be able to remove more hot coolant from cooler)
Or even easier, just rotate block 90° relative to ground, so input fitting on bottom, output on top.
2. Polish surface where LED chip is mounted on block (or whole block plane it whould be easier), You will get better contact between 2 planes and better heat transfer from chip to cooler. Otherwise amazing cooler 👌🏻 I like this project 👍
That's a great idea, as for the cover this was actually only temporary because I need to use it in any orientation, so I actually redesigned that entire backplate to allow it to Auto bleed as well as deliver coolant in any position. As for polishing the back part that I should have done and I did not think about but that makes absolute perfect sense. I'm sure if you magnify down on that back plate there are valleys and peaks for sure... I totally have to do that. Thanks!
Perfect... Hello Brazil...👏😁
Dude you would be the perfect neighbor to live next to
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Wtf .. incredible.. Respect 👏👏🙏🙏
You make smart things fun. Kudos.
insane work......awesome!
You are a genius keep up the good work Steve from Annapolis Maryland
This was an incredible, super educational video!! I love your content and style. 😄
Thanks for this video. It is inspirational. I'm very interested in lighting technology and this build was super interesting! I'm also very impressed by your engineering capabilities. It makes me a little jealous, haha.
Thx. That was really interesting.
You are My new idol! Great jobb.
Those are great results considering the crude casting method!
I agree... Very crude .. lbvs
Wow, this turned out beautifully. This is the first video of your build that I have seen. I'm going to check out any previous videos if you have any. But I'm definitely looking forward to your next one.
work of art
Your cinematography skills are on point!
Thank you
Awesome work... Copper is gummy and a pain to work with.. Good job
Very gummy and sticky, I learned that the hard way this is the first time I've ever machined a large copper part.. the heat does weird things to it and it loves to break bits and end mills....lol
Brother all your videos are absolutely amazing I love it..thank you
Wish I had a shop like yours