Been tinkering with these boxes for a while if the woofer dies go snag a Rockford fosgate R2D4 10" prime woofer 4ohm they are a direct drop in and work with the amp and can handle more power than the built in amp also if you wanna port using the 10" fosgate woofer you can use a single 2" 7" long port on the right side of the woofer across from the amp this will improve it a good amount i have 3 all wired on a 2 ohm load so the amps get a bit hotter but after 2 years of daily abuse and what not in the minitruck no issues from anything i did use 8 gauge wiring for all of the boxes.
just hooked mine up and tapped into the rear speakers. Sounds great, but my question is; Is it normal for the side aluminum panel to run real hot to the touch? And if not, what can I do to help cool it from running hot if there is anything to do?
It will get warm, but it shouldn't get hot. It may help if you turn the Input volume down a little bit because i think the heatsink (that aluminum panel) is too small for the amplifier (which sucks lol) also if it's covered in some way it can overheat. I guess let it go and see if it goes into protect mode or starts cutting out. If it gets hot to where you can't comfortably keep your finger on it then it may just be defective.
I'd imagine it would be pretty loud for sure! I turned up the one in the wife's car and it bumps pretty good so times that by ten and it would probably be crazy!
Hey man, your videos about this speaker have been super helpful in helping me decide on getting one and getting it hooked up. Before I ask my question, I am a novice, at best, in speaker install. And I apologize for the long question. I first installed this with a 12 gauge wire and had it rolling pretty good. It ended up cutting out on me on long drives (3+ hours) and got extremely hot. Because of that, I upgraded the power and ground wires to a 10 gauge to try and solve the problem. Now with the 10 gauge the sub is barely audible in the front seat. Any thoughts on where to go from here?? Thanks in advance.
@tylerward1691 Thank you for the support! It could be a couple factors going on, but I would imagine it melted some solder or is in the process of giving up. I have noticed over time that these amps get hotter with age. You could check your connections with a meter to make sure there is no impedance in the wires.
@tylerward1691 they stopped selling those and replaced them with the Jensen J10ASB. I would imagine you got it on clearance from Walmart? I bet those last models were not made very well. Also, if you have the gain up all the way and your source voltage is high, then just about any amp will get hot after 3± hours. Well, most budget amps anyway.
@@Blowncapacitor84 I apologize again! This is the Jensen. I got it from Walmart at the beginning of July. I’ve only had the gain about 3/4 of the way up, never more than that. Just not sure why upgrading amp wire would lose power to the sub
I have no choice but to lay it down. It’s going into protect mode due to the heat not being able to escape. Would drilling a 1 or 2 inch hole above the heat sink allow for heat to escape better?
@@Blowncapacitor84 nah man old school. RCA’s hooked into amp( same setup in vid) and the head unit side just cut the jacks off and connect wires straight to existing speaker/ speaker wire
Hey so I bought this sub and swapped the speaker for a marine grade " Polk DB1042" had it running off the battery hooked up to my boat stereo. Went to install it under the seat, same wiring configuration and now the power LED won't turn on. What went wrong? Speaker too powerful for amp? Thanks!
That was a great video but what I want to know is how would I hook that up to the car battery in my garage without a receiver or car amp kit, just from my independent home stereo speakers and car sub I have hooked up to a Bluetooth portable speaker. Will I have problems with the fuses blowing out or the actual Dual sub with amp being damaged. This will help me out a lot if you can reply back thank you and the video was very helpful.
Nice video...so I'm missing the connector so wondering if you can refresh me on wiring high level? Oh also, I see you didn't use both remote wires. Why is that and why is there 2 if not needed?
There is no high-level input, unfortunately. But you can order a new harness online. As far as the remote or any of the wires from the harness, you only have to use one from each. They put two wires going to each pin so you can daisy chain them.
@Blowncapacitor84 actually had a chance to do some reading..I guess everything is high level(speaker level) until rca come into play converting it to low level. So I'm going to soder to the pins and it said if using high level connections, I won't need to worry about the remote wire period as it supposedly gets the "turn on" from the speaker connection. I'm probably wrong but I'm going in
Can you hook two of them together the the dual 10-inch amplifier inside deals I got two of them I don't know how to hook both of them together and it is 416
Run the positive wire from the battery to one of the red wires on the harness of the first one. Then, run a wire from the other wire on the first harness to the second harness. You should fuse that wire running from one to the other. You can also do the same thing for the ground and remote too.
@@Blowncapacitor84 Great thank you! Just got this powered sub. I cant tell if ill blow it because i cant use the meter to set lpf and gain. There are no ports to connect to only the small wire harness for power ground and remote.🤷♂️
Or even better you can just get a actual sub designed for a home stereo and plug it in a play 😂 that's what a normal person would do, why would you get a car sub that's not even going to be close to bumping like a home sub 😅 don't make any sense
Been tinkering with these boxes for a while if the woofer dies go snag a Rockford fosgate R2D4 10" prime woofer 4ohm they are a direct drop in and work with the amp and can handle more power than the built in amp also if you wanna port using the 10" fosgate woofer you can use a single 2" 7" long port on the right side of the woofer across from the amp this will improve it a good amount i have 3 all wired on a 2 ohm load so the amps get a bit hotter but after 2 years of daily abuse and what not in the minitruck no issues from anything i did use 8 gauge wiring for all of the boxes.
That's AWESOME!! thank you for the tips!!
Great video!!!
Thank you!!
NS here!!! I like you!!!
Thank you!!! I like you too!!!
Too cool! Thanks!
Anytime!
I'm sure its different for each vehicle...but do you have suggestions for the knob settings?
I would suggest putting the crossover and bass eq close to max and adjust the input level to your liking. My input is set to about halfway
Thats a nice burn you got there done that before 😢
Yeah, it a doozy! Ouch!
Lol it was one of those that I could hear😂
just hooked mine up and tapped into the rear speakers. Sounds great, but my question is; Is it normal for the side aluminum panel to run real hot to the touch? And if not, what can I do to help cool it from running hot if there is anything to do?
It will get warm, but it shouldn't get hot. It may help if you turn the Input volume down a little bit because i think the heatsink (that aluminum panel) is too small for the amplifier (which sucks lol) also if it's covered in some way it can overheat. I guess let it go and see if it goes into protect mode or starts cutting out. If it gets hot to where you can't comfortably keep your finger on it then it may just be defective.
Can I see a picture of the tune you have on the amp plz mine gets to hot and turns off
If the subwoorer output voltage from your headunit is different it won't help. What head unit are you using?
I wonder what around 10 of these would sound like, lol.
I'd imagine it would be pretty loud for sure! I turned up the one in the wife's car and it bumps pretty good so times that by ten and it would probably be crazy!
Thanks
You're welcome!
Can I connect an additional amp to a preamp subwoofer like this
Yes. Use rca splitters
How would i do that and thank you for getting back to me @Blowncapacitor84
Hey man, your videos about this speaker have been super helpful in helping me decide on getting one and getting it hooked up. Before I ask my question, I am a novice, at best, in speaker install. And I apologize for the long question.
I first installed this with a 12 gauge wire and had it rolling pretty good. It ended up cutting out on me on long drives (3+ hours) and got extremely hot.
Because of that, I upgraded the power and ground wires to a 10 gauge to try and solve the problem. Now with the 10 gauge the sub is barely audible in the front seat.
Any thoughts on where to go from here?? Thanks in advance.
@tylerward1691 Thank you for the support! It could be a couple factors going on, but I would imagine it melted some solder or is in the process of giving up. I have noticed over time that these amps get hotter with age. You could check your connections with a meter to make sure there is no impedance in the wires.
@@Blowncapacitor84 Even though this thing is less than a month old??
@@tylerward1691 where did you buy it?
@tylerward1691 they stopped selling those and replaced them with the Jensen J10ASB. I would imagine you got it on clearance from Walmart? I bet those last models were not made very well.
Also, if you have the gain up all the way and your source voltage is high, then just about any amp will get hot after 3± hours.
Well, most budget amps anyway.
@@Blowncapacitor84 I apologize again! This is the Jensen. I got it from Walmart at the beginning of July. I’ve only had the gain about 3/4 of the way up, never more than that. Just not sure why upgrading amp wire would lose power to the sub
I have no choice but to lay it down. It’s going into protect mode due to the heat not being able to escape. Would drilling a 1 or 2 inch hole above the heat sink allow for heat to escape better?
Man that sucks. It might just be broke. I don't think drilling a hole will help much but worth a try.
How would it sound if I hooked the rca straight to a door speaker?
Nothing. Rca's are line level, which means there's not enough power to drive the speaker.
@@Blowncapacitor84 nah man old school. RCA’s hooked into amp( same setup in vid) and the head unit side just cut the jacks off and connect wires straight to existing speaker/ speaker wire
Hey so I bought this sub and swapped the speaker for a marine grade " Polk DB1042" had it running off the battery hooked up to my boat stereo. Went to install it under the seat, same wiring configuration and now the power LED won't turn on.
What went wrong? Speaker too powerful for amp?
Thanks!
@@user-ik6dh7gj5c that's a good one... did you ever power it up prior to changing the speaker?
All good, got it sorted out - she sounds great!
@@user-ik6dh7gj5c Nice! Enjoy!
That was a great video but what I want to know is how would I hook that up to the car battery in my garage without a receiver or car amp kit, just from my independent home stereo speakers and car sub I have hooked up to a Bluetooth portable speaker. Will I have problems with the fuses blowing out or the actual Dual sub with amp being damaged. This will help me out a lot if you can reply back thank you and the video was very helpful.
czcams.com/video/Icqi7RiNWNM/video.htmlsi=ZHm9Xe5RefM4UXlt
I think this video should help out! Let me know if you're still having problems.👍
Nice video...so I'm missing the connector so wondering if you can refresh me on wiring high level? Oh also, I see you didn't use both remote wires. Why is that and why is there 2 if not needed?
There is no high-level input, unfortunately. But you can order a new harness online. As far as the remote or any of the wires from the harness, you only have to use one from each. They put two wires going to each pin so you can daisy chain them.
@Blowncapacitor84 actually had a chance to do some reading..I guess everything is high level(speaker level) until rca come into play converting it to low level. So I'm going to soder to the pins and it said if using high level connections, I won't need to worry about the remote wire period as it supposedly gets the "turn on" from the speaker connection. I'm probably wrong but I'm going in
@@nathanheynen3576 Nice!!!
Can you hook two of them together the the dual 10-inch amplifier inside deals I got two of them I don't know how to hook both of them together and it is 416
Run the positive wire from the battery to one of the red wires on the harness of the first one. Then, run a wire from the other wire on the first harness to the second harness. You should fuse that wire running from one to the other. You can also do the same thing for the ground and remote too.
But you don't have to fuse the remote or ground... they're kinda designed to run more than one! Hope that helps!
Does it sound good with the Yamaha receiver?
Yes it does!!! I think I'm gonna keep it there!
Is it possible to tie a second one into the 1st? (daisy chain it)
Absolutely! That's why there are 2 power, ground, and remote wires. They connect in the amp and are bridged. Just grab some rca splitters.
Awesome thanks!@@Blowncapacitor84
@@williammcgrath1709 Absolutely no problem!
Can i blow a 1200w sub with a 400w amp?
Great question! Yes! Given that the "max" rating is for the sub (they lie) and 400w rms amp. If the amp is turned up too high, it sure can.
@@Blowncapacitor84 Great thank you! Just got this powered sub. I cant tell if ill blow it because i cant use the meter to set lpf and gain. There are no ports to connect to only the small wire harness for power ground and remote.🤷♂️
Or even better you can just get a actual sub designed for a home stereo and plug it in a play 😂 that's what a normal person would do, why would you get a car sub that's not even going to be close to bumping like a home sub 😅 don't make any sense
@KellyNorman-wu6qr because this isn't the 3rd Reich and I do I want. Why you so mad?
@KellyNorman-wu6qr by the way, thank you for watching and commenting! Every comment helps my channel to grow! Thank you, and I love you!!!