Grizzly 7x14 Mini Lathe | G0765 First Impressions
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- čas přidán 31. 08. 2020
- Here we discuss some of my initial thoughts on the Grizzly G0765 mini lathe and what skills I need to improve on before tackling real projects. If you are an experienced machinist, I would love some advice.
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I’ve had this lathe for about 6 months now, and think it’s a good machine, after tweaking many issues of course! However, let me warn you about a very dangerous trap when drilling with a tailstock mounted Jacob’s chuck. This probably applies to many of the various mini lathes. If you run the quill out far enough, you’ll notice a groove milled into the top of it. On top of the tailstock you’ll notice a set screw that threads into the headstock. That screw rides in the quill groove, and keeps it from turning when using it with centers and drill chucks. Pay close attention to the top of the quill when drilling, and if you see the rounded end of that groove coming past the front of the tailstock, STOP!!! That groove is open on the rear end, and continuing to feed out on the quill will allow the groove to pass the set screw, and at that point the drill, chuck, quill, feed screw, and hand wheel will INSTANTLY go from 0 to matching the speed of the spindle! If your hand happens to be on or near the hand wheel, which it will be if you’re drilling, you will take a nasty beating at the very least, and possibly broken bones/lacerations! I speak from painful experience!
Woah. Sorry to hear that, but thank you for the heads up. I had not noticed that yet, and I really appreciate the advice!
Thank you, people heavily underestimate how dangerous these machines in specific can be.
Wow! Thank you for the video..I’m new to metal working so it’s nice when someone, such as yourself, shows the little tricks of the trade. I had no idea that you needed to shim the tool to get the correct center. I thought you just inserted the tool and started cutting. Thanks again for showing me what I will need to do.
You can get a mirror finish on alu by using a wider tipped tool.. anything pointed looks like a micro spiral under a microscope and you can feel it. The point needs to be wider than the ratio of feed to head, or just don't use the feed.
That's good info to have. I appreciate it.
I worked in a machine shop briefly as an industrial controls integtator (adding electrical controls to finished equipment) and gained some lathe experience during my time there. All the mills had atomized coolant/lube misters which would probably help you quite a bit. The large lathes used a flood coolant/lube system on the workpiece, but that would be impractical on the small machines. The takeaway is you want to lubricate and remove the heat simultaneously. Some people say no coolant with aluminum, but the shop I worked in did and the parts had perfect finishes like looking at the bottom of a Compact Disc. Of course the parts were large and the cuts were intensive, so may not apply on hobbyist level projects. Still I think a small mister with the right composition of liquid will solve your problem. I'm sure there will be some disagreements and I only speak of my specific experiences.
Good to know. I love learning and hearing from different perspectives. Thank you.
Using feeler gauges as shims is brilliant! Thanks for sharing. I'm going to buy some of those and do that same.
Glad I could share a useful tip! I picked it up from Practical Renaissance I believe. Sure is a cheap way to solve that issue.
The other thing we've done is cut out strips of pop cans and that works pretty well
@@MNDashcam It would have to be beer cans in my case.😊
I'm looking into a Chinese mini lathe, I've always wanted one :) So I will be binge watching a few more of your great vids. Thanks for posting. (Subbed).
I have this lathe now about 3 years and still enjoy working with it. I invested in a set of carbide tipped tools made all the difference. It must be bolted down and the gib's adjusted accuratley. Otherwise excellent machine
Thanks for sharing!
I have that same lathe and I found some gears on eBay make is a slower feed and u can crank up the speed . i have had my lathe for like 6 years now . also the tool sharpness stone a little radius on it to . But cool you are learning keep having fun.
You will get a better finish by ditching the auto feed but also by making sure the tool tip is very very slightly below centre. Hope that helps. Ps changing the spindle speed makes no difference as the feed speed is directly proportional ie same ft travelled per minute per revolution ...it just completes the cut quicker thats all.👍
Interesting. Is that just how these Brushless DC motors work? Or is it related to the diameter of my work?
You can improve the chatter issue by replacing the bearings in the spindle with tapered bearings rather than the roller bearings..
Nice work. Nice lathe
Good job
high-quality product
OoooOO Thank You. Fantastic work bud. I am with you I am looking for the best mini late but all that I find is issues ? Who makes a great mini lathe?
With a little modification and hacks, those Chinese lathes are actually pretty good.
I am using a Barnes lathe made in 1906.
Very cool!
Look into atlas vintage lathes, l have 6 I've restored, they was more the hobbyist lathes and built very well for what your needs are,,, even if you find a southbend are Logan it will probably be well worn out they was more used in factories and schools, the atlas lathes were usually loved and taken care of. And cheaper to find as well as parts for them
The correct speed range for the tool's design, material, and installation
It could be possible that you’ll need to upgrade your spindle bearings to get a better surface finish.
nice
Does the tailstock require shortened MT2 tooling or will it hold a standard length morse taper. Thank You
Your angle gauge appears to be not flush with your compound and that would cause inconsistent turns , dismantle it and bring it flush on your compound and that should help your rigidity issues ! And get a QCTP as soon as possible , it’s a game changer along with collets you wouldn’t believe how nice it makes it !
Thank you for the tips!
Tapered spindle bearings also
Not an experienced machinist, but a fellow mini lathe user. It looks like you are using HSS tooling. You could try honing the edge of the tool to improve the finish, or you could probably save yourself a lot of hassle by getting some tooling that takes the special indexable inserts for aluminium - I use CCGT060204 inserts with a SCLCR1010H06 holder (the important part is that the inserts are XXGT not XXMT - they are silver, not yellow, and very sharp). They give an excellent finish on aluminium or brass. Your live centre doesn't seem to be running true, but that's not causing the finish problem. WD40 works well with aluminium. Lastly, what grade of aluminium is it? Some machine better than others. Good luck! :)
Thank you for the great feedback. I will look into all of this. I am still buying more tooling and indicators to understand my parts better, but you've given me a good place to start looking into tooling. Thanks for watching and the comment!
I'm a manual machinist by trade school Calhoun community College Decatur Alabama. More rims or slower feed to eliminate lines on finish most of the time
How do Sherline lathes compare to the Grizzly?
Tip. Never use WD40 as a cutting fluid, it will not disperse the heat properly and will draw the cutter into the part causing a rough cut,
and if you look under a microscope you will see the surface finish is being ripped instead of being cut smoothly.
and so people wonder why it has a dull finish and end up using scotch brite to buff it up to a shine,
because the roughness causes oxidizasion and wd40 loves to do that to the softer aluminium. not so bad on the 7000 series ally tho.
From where I can buy this mini lathe machine
Maybe a little late to the picnic, but a couple of comments. I have, among others, a MIcrolux 7 x 16, maybe a little expensive, but I feel it worth the money. Ground and polished stock, in the chuck, .0005" TIR. I made one modification, to the compound gib, just a shallow milled slot for the center gib screw to locate in and keep it from moving. Looking at yours as set, why the weird angle on the compound? I know the protractors on them are junk, and you're not the first one I've seen with the compound set at the wrong angle for threading, the proper angle is thirty degrees off having the compound parallel with the cross slide, you want to match the angle of the thread. You have yours set at 60 degrees, that isn't going to work.
Also, if you can spin the handle on the compound slide easily, the gibs are not tight enough. It should move with some resistance, to eliminate any chance of vibration showing up, giving a crap finish. For aluminum, it's hard to tell what speed you had from a video, but probably not fast enough. Aluminum can take a lot of speed. A radius that is too large can cause problems, especially with a small machine. Feed rates on the 7X lathes is too high, some arrangement to get that down to half or less of what the provided gearing allows will help a lot.
The four position tool post turret isn't the huge problem it's been made to seem. Shimming tools to get center is something anyone that's run a turret lathe can tell you is something they don't even think about, we just do it. A cheap set of automotive feeler gages will give shims that will allow shimming most tools properly, and they're cheap.
Mineral spirits is also a good lube for aluminum. For steel, I know there will be others saying I'm wrong, but plain old thread cutting oil is very hard to beat, but does generate a lot of smoke. How bad that is for you, I don't know. I've worked with it all my life, and I'm less than a year away from being eighty. The plumbing department of most hardware stores would be happy to sell you a quart, which is probably three years supply. It also works for tap and die threading very well.
I have nothing against Grizzly, I've had a 12 X 36 for over twenty years and it hasn't failed to do what I needed yet. Not a geared head, but a back geared belt drive. Perfectly satisfactory for anything I asked it to do, and that was a lot.
Good luck, and watch the second hand stores for some of the older lathe manuals, they were far better than what is now furnished. In my opinion, the Atlas manual was the best, tons of information you might think you don't need, until you do.
Thank you for all the great info in this comment. I will be coming back to it as a reference. I'm honored to have you as a viewer, and I would love to have your insight on my future lathe videos!
@@ezekielstrumpetcreations Glad I could give out something of use, which is always a maybe. However, and I'm not looking for any emotion, having had lung cancer for more than a year, my years may well be measured in days. It's controlled for now, but how long is anyone's guess.
Books. There used to be a publisher of old machinist books, Lindsay publishing, and Lindsay got a lot of my money. They're gone, but the books probably can be found in the resale shops. Atlas, South Bend, and Logan had excellent manuals, the information in them not particular to their machines, but a lathe is a lathe. Also, Audel's Machinist's Handy Book, which is a pretty thick book, has a lot more information. It may be old, may not cover anything modern, but again, machines are still operating on the same principles as they were a hundred years ago.
On the previous comment to mine, I see the poster equated oil with cooling, this is a false assumption. Oil only lubricates the tool to keep the chip flowing smoothly over the tool and not welding itself to it. Aluminum in particular will build up a false edge on the tool, finish and size are quickly lost then. WD 40 or spirits has the fluidity to get under the chip and on the tool, cutting oil, maybe not.
I use little carbide, for the smaller machines and smaller work, High speed steel works just as well once you learn to grind the tools. I'm not sure what the percentage of cobalt in mine is, I'm guessing, 0.8%, it's been a long time since i ordered them. Settled on that when it seemed to work.
Final word, you can only work as close as you can measure. Should be enough said. Most of my instruments are Starrett, meaning the ones I actually use. I have a lot of others, the accumulation of second had instruments, and yes, I'm a took junkie. I see tool, I want it.
hopefully you figured out your surface finish issue by now, but you have to take into account your tool nose radius when determining your speeds and feeds for finish. for example if your tool nose radius is 0.015 and you set your feed rate at 0.020 per rev, you will have peaks and valleys in your surface finish. also if you are still experimenting with cutting fluids you could always use dish soap, water and motor oil in a spray bottle, i prefer using coolant over oil on everything but thread cutting and knurling.
Thank you for the good advice. Sometimes its difficult to know which aspect of my machining is causing the issues because I am learning it all at the same time.
That model is identical to the Harbor Freight model, it's just rebranded and painted green. The parts are more or less identical.
Just a question is it run on 120 or 250 outlets
First and yay sound
Yea ik right
How long have you had it.?
Use a diamond tip on aluminum. It will give a mirror finish.
Que ferramenta de corte é essa amigo??
Cooling fluid for Aluminium im left without words.
It's more that I was being overly cautious since this was near the beginning of my time operating a lathe.
@@ezekielstrumpetcreations ohh okay now you know
i know they are nitrile gloves but.... my subconscious is screaming noooo gloves with a lathe.
Супер отличный ролик!
Спасибо!
If you are cutting Aloominumm (Sorry, I am English) you don't need coolant.
Good to know. Still learning, thank you!
@@ezekielstrumpetcreations I am apprentice trained at Rolls Royce, although I have not been in the industry for a while, I am ALWAYS learning?
What is an "inch"? Is it a measurement used in the Bible?
Isn’t wearing gloves when operating a lathe dangerous because if it gets caught in a machine it could pull you into it and cause further injury? Or is that not applicable to small lathes?
Slower feed =good surface finish
Is this machine better than the harbor freight one?
I have never owned a HF, but from my experience with this one and feeling the demo models in store, yes the Grizzly is better in many small ways. It certainly has better customer support. Just get started, I don't think you will regret either if it gets you started in the craft.
Ce pret are strungul ?
Kerosene as a cutting oil for aluminum and other “gummy” metals like copper. Oils make a gummy situation messier.
Use tap magic for aluminum as cutting fluid
I saw how your adjusting your cross slide. Your not pulling back on the tool post and only feed in on the dial. . Backlash has to be accounted for
That's a good point. Thank you for the observation. Still learning.
Imagine being a band teacher... guess who i am 😌😐
Part of your rigidity issue was the length of your piece.
Good to know. It shouldn't stick out more than twice its diameter, correct?
You need to dial in you parts as you can see the ovality when cutting,
when cutting soft ally, there is no point in using oil. as you cut the heat is dispersed quick,
if it is getting hot, then sharpen you tool,
Well i hope you pick up many tips from viewers.
Good advice! Still very new and have a lot to learn. Thank you.
Well he needs to see that by his own eyes
u need to have the cutting tool sharp very sharp
how much price this metal lathe
Sometimes it goes on sale. $800 - $1000
@@ezekielstrumpetcreations thank you
Good info, but the music is distracting.
just so everyone knows all these 7"x 14" no matter where buy them their all the same, so just buy the best price, just so you know I'm a retired machine tool fitter by trade
They all come from the same factory but they are not identical. Different venders have different “ fit and finish” ( most of these can be done by the owner) some are metric some are imperial. Some have 350 watt brushed motors with pwm controllers and hi low gears in the headstock. Some have 500 watt brushless motors with much more consistent torque through the speed ranges so they don’t have hi low gears in the headstock. Some have 3” chucks some have 4” chucks . There is Sieg c3 and the upgraded Sieg sc2 all based on the same castings.
Why don't you buy an adjustable tool holder.
It's on the list. I will pick up a few soon, but I don't buy new tools without cashflow to justify it.
machining books are your friend -
I Always spring pass
Try putting your tool into the tool post properly
Could you elaborate? I love to learn.
LMS is not bad they are mom and pop store. Grizzly they keep wanting to sell me a new 12"x36" Gear head that was an old 2002 Harbor Freight. I get transferred from parts all the time to sales and have to argue with a sales guy to transfer me back to parts. Grizzly's 12"x36" Gear hear is the same model as the old Harbor Freight model however the parts I replace (only 2 so far), have to be improved slightly to work on my 12"x36" Harbor Freight Gear head. Grizzly's cross slide had only 1 hole for brass thread guide to the cross slide lead screw operation. My LMS bench mill was tasked to bore another hole. Every time I called LMS I know who is answering after ordering four times. But, they can not help me with my full-sized lathe I am stuck with Grizzly a little bit. Technically a lathe does have the capability to build itself. Don't take out the backlash that could be your problem and you don't always need cutting fluid see tubalcain I am sure you have heard or watched him. Blondie Hacks too.
Thank you for the comment and great info! I will need a larger lathe in the future. Would you recommend the Grizzly 12x36?
@@ezekielstrumpetcreations just find u a used lathe on craigslist or facebook pick up local. you can pick up a good used well known brand for cheap. Just keep ur eye open for it. I am not saying grizzly sucks, but u can get something for a fraction of the cost.
QCTP....simples
Always remove your chuck key
Why are you wearing gloves?
Before shooting this video I was working with some materials and substances I didn't want on my hands. I forget to take them off.
that was embarrassing unless it was comedy -
was funny
Those gloves are scary.
You are wasting fluid by constantly flooding the part this is not necessary for what you are doing, you are just making extra unneeded mess and expense in wasted fluids . I would try changing your cutting tool and tool angles I noticed the tip of your tool is razor sharp pointed try something less pointed for a bit more cutting contact or try carbide especially for cutting the aluminum I think you will see the finish will improve.
Thank you for the advice! Always willing to learn. I come from a music background, so still considered a newbie in the machining world.
@@ezekielstrumpetcreations You are welcome, I am far from an expert myself just thought to share some experience and what I have picked up from others with expertise. Have fun as you make chips there are a lot of really great people that have the mini lathe that have made improvements to them and ignore the nay sayers.
What is a nibbin? I think you mean nubbin.
You caught me. Just a slip up.
You should really reconsider wearing gloves while operating your lathe.
I agree never wear gloves running mills lathes etc
I know someone that was wearing leather gloves while operating a mill. It came close to ripping all of his fingers off. Took him a long time to recover.
Gloves? WTF?
I was working with some chemicals I didn't want on my hands right before filming this. I have since reconsidered wearing gloves while at the lathe.
Please tell me where the notion of the background music originated.
I find it annoying, distracting, and it is totally non-productive for your presentation.
If this were a live presentation in front of an audience, would you have an orchestra playing, and you trying to talk over their noise?
....RooDog....
I'm not sure where it originated, but part of why I use it is to create a calm mood while people watch. I likely just have the music up a little too loud. Thank you for the criticism, and thanks for watching!
@@ezekielschloss8955 The video is great, I do like the information.
As for "creating a calm mood", I have pills for that, but that Muzak just infuriates me, so now I'll take another "chill pill"
And again: It is totally non-productive and adds nothing to the value of the information presented.....
@@ezekielschloss8955 I have to agree with Steve there. People who come to watch these kinds of videos aren't coming for music. They want to hear the sounds associated with the shop experience.
Other than that you are doing a great job.
Youre going to lose a hand or some digits wearing gloves. Never wear gloves when operating machinery.
Agreed. This was an oversight from some work I was doing right before filming this video. Keeping it up as PSA.
wd40 stinks
Buy vintage and never listen to a man working with rubber gloves.
Good advice on buying vintage. I was simply keeping my reply in the scope of the question. I had gloves on because I was working with some chemicals I didn't want on my hands during this workshop session and just forgot to take them off before filming. I have since been more careful in my operation of lathes.
This is your first lathe... you're not qualified to give an opinion.