Thank you! This helped me get the control for our energy recovery ventilation unit programmed to just be on during our work hours only. This was a big help!
I've been using this thermostat for a few weeks now, and have found this video very useful. The process was very clearly explained. I would like to see a few more, for instance, explaining the other timer settings, what reservations are all about and what the installer settings mean and do. There seems to be little information available online for this device, and the manual is not the best, so any guidance is appreciated.
Great video. Owners manual sure doesn't provided adequate detail regarding this and many other items. Simple questions....How does the controller indicate that electric backup heat is being used (I have a centrally ducted system with 15KW electric backup in the air handler)? Second question, what does the ? on the upper right corner of the screen indicate?
I haven’t yet connected a booster heater to an LG system, we would normally look at the capacity of the system at -5 and size off that. Installing bigger or more systems, we do this for better energy efficiency. I’m not to sure about the on symbol, most newer systems around today tun in conjunction with the booster heater, topping up the capacity rather than switching to electric booster out put only.
I have my fan set to AUTO when I manually control unit. What I mean is instead of low, medium or high I select auto on the screen as then it ramps up and down. However, there is no way to do the auto fan on programing? Just the low, med or high?
do you know what the "Comfort Cooling" setting does and when it is recommended to be engaged. As is typical, the manual indicates how to select it but offers no guidance as to it's use or benefit.
Awesome video mate! I have the same controller in my new apartment but it won't allow me to change anything. It gives the CH 53 error code and 'please check the central controller' notice. Do you happen to know what might be causing this? Thanks mate
Ch53 is communication error between indoor unit and outdoor unit, down load “hvac lg services”from App Store and log in as guest you can get tech details there.
Recently my pump has become noisier than typical....but only at times. the noise is a fairly low frequency droning sound. It is somewhat like the sound of it when defrosting but happens when not defrosting. Anyone have similar experience?
It is a ducted system so presumably you mean the filter in the Air Handler. This was replaced very recently and I am diligent about replacing it every 2 months or so.
@@PJM117 try and work out if it’s indoor fan related or compressor, run it on fan only, check if it makes the noise, then run it in cooling or heating with the temperature set point adjusted so it’s running at it max and check for the noise.
So this might be a dumb question but I'm hoping you can just clarify something since you've already helped with the temp overheating We have a ducted lg inverter heat pump luu368hv outdoor and lvn360hv4 indoor with this thermostat. It is about 1 degree Celsius outside and our set point is around 20 degrees C inside. So at 19.5, the heat starts and then kicks off at about 21. This takes About 30 minutes to do and then whenthe temp drops back down to 19.5 the cycle repeats. The fans outside are blowing pretty hard during all this time and don't seem to visibly change until they shut off. So my question is this: isn't this acting like an on/off heat pump and not an inverter? I thought the inverter ramps up and down to maintain the temp rather than on/off at what looks like fairly constant high speed? Any thoughts? Thanks so much
When it’s cold outside there is less heat in the air, so the system is effectively smaller. The fan will run flat out as the amount of heat in 1 degrees air isn’t that much. With the system it looks at the coil temp of the indoor unit to decide the speed of the compressor. With this reduced amount of heat in the air out side the indoor coil temp will be lower and therefore asking the compressor to run faster. The compressor is the part that uses the most power not the fans outside, it will be ramping up and slowing down sum what. The biggest thing in heating is the air temp of the air being discharged from the outlets and comfort factor. If the system ran at less power out put from the compressor the air coming out the outlets would cooler and you will feel more drafts. It would also run longer if it’s out put was less blow that cooler air around longer. Some of the DAIKIN ducted units have a setting for how it reacts and this reduces compressor speed, eco, efficient, reactive and powerful. The more efficient, the longer the run time, the cooler the draft. In cold climates like Canberra where it gets cold, when set to the efficient (factory set) mode everyone complains that the system is not heating very well and blowing cool air, doesn’t turn off. As standard we set all the units to powerful in heating. Efficient sounds good, but in reality it just uncomfortable.
It will also have a lot to do with the size of the system and the load on it, it it’s not sized correctly, let’s say it’s a bit small for the area it’s doing, run time will be increased. When you start hitting defrost cycles the run time will increase exponentially. A larger system would achieve the coils temp easier and start ramping down the compressor, it would also reduce tuning time and be cheaper to run, but up front cot would be higher.
@@FullyAirconditioned Thanks for that answer...totally makes sense. I guess i envisioned an inverter chugging along at lower level trying to prevent swings in temp, rather than heating a degree Celsius past and then stopping dead and restarting when it falls below the set point. I'm obviously not an hvac person lol. So can i ask how is what this is doing any different than a non inverter system? And does the outdoor fan speed correlate with the compressor speed? Thanks again man. Really appreciate the answers
Well with an inverter the starting current is much lower, a DOL motor will draw up to 8 times it’s running current at start up and inverter won’t go over it’s running current. Unless you actually measure the current draw the compressor is using you don’t actually know weather the compressor is speeding up or not, but I can tell you it will be. An inverter motor driving the same compressor is smaller and uses less power that a DOL motor as the DOL motor is built to handle the start up current (8 times running current) so for the rest of the time the electric motor is over sized and uses unnecessary power, the inverter doesn’t as it’s sized to max running current not the starting current of a DOL motor (8 x running current). The compressor will ramp up and down more in cooling as drafts are not a problem. But the biggest thing is sizing of the system, if under sized the system will run longer, have a lower coil temp and there for sit on full speed longer. Capacity is king, regardless of efficiency, a larger less efficient unit will use less power that an under sized, smaller more efficient system.
Anyone know what voltage I should be getting at the controller? It's labeled as 12v on the back of the controller, but I'm getting 24v. Having problems with all the controllers I've tried and wondering if voltage is the reason. ODU: LG Multi V S. IDU: ARNU363NJA4.
Very clear and well done video. There is no way I would have been able to program our new Heat Pump without this video. Many thanks from Canada!
Thanks 😊
Thanks, we just had a new LG ducted system installed and the first thing I went looking for was how to program a schedule. This is very helpful.
Thanks
Thank you! This helped me get the control for our energy recovery ventilation unit programmed to just be on during our work hours only. This was a big help!
I've been using this thermostat for a few weeks now, and have found this video very useful. The process was very clearly explained. I would like to see a few more, for instance, explaining the other timer settings, what reservations are all about and what the installer settings mean and do. There seems to be little information available online for this device, and the manual is not the best, so any guidance is appreciated.
Nightmare to setup the weekly timer on it... Wish you could do night set back temps on the LG WiFi app as can't select temps on it.
Great video. Owners manual sure doesn't provided adequate detail regarding this and many other items. Simple questions....How does the controller indicate that electric backup heat is being used (I have a centrally ducted system with 15KW electric backup in the air handler)? Second question, what does the ? on the upper right corner of the screen indicate?
I haven’t yet connected a booster heater to an LG system, we would normally look at the capacity of the system at -5 and size off that. Installing bigger or more systems, we do this for better energy efficiency. I’m not to sure about the on symbol, most newer systems around today tun in conjunction with the booster heater, topping up the capacity rather than switching to electric booster out put only.
thanks. Any knowledge of the ? symbol in the upper right corner?
I have my fan set to AUTO when I manually control unit. What I mean is instead of low, medium or high I select auto on the screen as then it ramps up and down. However, there is no way to do the auto fan on programing? Just the low, med or high?
do you know what the "Comfort Cooling" setting does and when it is recommended to be engaged. As is typical, the manual indicates how to select it but offers no guidance as to it's use or benefit.
Awesome video mate! I have the same controller in my new apartment but it won't allow me to change anything. It gives the CH 53 error code and 'please check the central controller' notice. Do you happen to know what might be causing this? Thanks mate
Ch53 is communication error between indoor unit and outdoor unit, down load “hvac lg services”from App Store and log in as guest you can get tech details there.
@@FullyAirconditioned Thank you so much!
Awesome video thanks
Recently my pump has become noisier than typical....but only at times. the noise is a fairly low frequency droning sound. It is somewhat like the sound of it when defrosting but happens when not defrosting. Anyone have similar experience?
No haven’t experienced that, have you checked the simple things like filter ??
It is a ducted system so presumably you mean the filter in the Air Handler. This was replaced very recently and I am diligent about replacing it every 2 months or so.
@@PJM117 try and work out if it’s indoor fan related or compressor, run it on fan only, check if it makes the noise, then run it in cooling or heating with the temperature set point adjusted so it’s running at it max and check for the noise.
hi, new LG install runs for a few minutes then shuts off. works fine if I jumper the airhandler tho- Any guesses?
Don’t know sorry, have you checked the services valves have all been opened ??
So this might be a dumb question but I'm hoping you can just clarify something since you've already helped with the temp overheating
We have a ducted lg inverter heat pump luu368hv outdoor and lvn360hv4 indoor with this thermostat. It is about 1 degree Celsius outside and our set point is around 20 degrees C inside.
So at 19.5, the heat starts and then kicks off at about 21. This takes About 30 minutes to do and then whenthe temp drops back down to 19.5 the cycle repeats. The fans outside are blowing pretty hard during all this time and don't seem to visibly change until they shut off.
So my question is this: isn't this acting like an on/off heat pump and not an inverter? I thought the inverter ramps up and down to maintain the temp rather than on/off at what looks like fairly constant high speed?
Any thoughts? Thanks so much
When it’s cold outside there is less heat in the air, so the system is effectively smaller. The fan will run flat out as the amount of heat in 1 degrees air isn’t that much. With the system it looks at the coil temp of the indoor unit to decide the speed of the compressor. With this reduced amount of heat in the air out side the indoor coil temp will be lower and therefore asking the compressor to run faster. The compressor is the part that uses the most power not the fans outside, it will be ramping up and slowing down sum what. The biggest thing in heating is the air temp of the air being discharged from the outlets and comfort factor. If the system ran at less power out put from the compressor the air coming out the outlets would cooler and you will feel more drafts. It would also run longer if it’s out put was less blow that cooler air around longer. Some of the DAIKIN ducted units have a setting for how it reacts and this reduces compressor speed, eco, efficient, reactive and powerful. The more efficient, the longer the run time, the cooler the draft. In cold climates like Canberra where it gets cold, when set to the efficient (factory set) mode everyone complains that the system is not heating very well and blowing cool air, doesn’t turn off. As standard we set all the units to powerful in heating. Efficient sounds good, but in reality it just uncomfortable.
It will also have a lot to do with the size of the system and the load on it, it it’s not sized correctly, let’s say it’s a bit small for the area it’s doing, run time will be increased. When you start hitting defrost cycles the run time will increase exponentially. A larger system would achieve the coils temp easier and start ramping down the compressor, it would also reduce tuning time and be cheaper to run, but up front cot would be higher.
@@FullyAirconditioned Thanks for that answer...totally makes sense. I guess i envisioned an inverter chugging along at lower level trying to prevent swings in temp, rather than heating a degree Celsius past and then stopping dead and restarting when it falls below the set point. I'm obviously not an hvac person lol.
So can i ask how is what this is doing any different than a non inverter system? And does the outdoor fan speed correlate with the compressor speed?
Thanks again man. Really appreciate the answers
Well with an inverter the starting current is much lower, a DOL motor will draw up to 8 times it’s running current at start up and inverter won’t go over it’s running current. Unless you actually measure the current draw the compressor is using you don’t actually know weather the compressor is speeding up or not, but I can tell you it will be. An inverter motor driving the same compressor is smaller and uses less power that a DOL motor as the DOL motor is built to handle the start up current (8 times running current) so for the rest of the time the electric motor is over sized and uses unnecessary power, the inverter doesn’t as it’s sized to max running current not the starting current of a DOL motor (8 x running current). The compressor will ramp up and down more in cooling as drafts are not a problem. But the biggest thing is sizing of the system, if under sized the system will run longer, have a lower coil temp and there for sit on full speed longer. Capacity is king, regardless of efficiency, a larger less efficient unit will use less power that an under sized, smaller more efficient system.
@@FullyAirconditioned again Thanks for the answers man! Very helpful.cheers!!
Anyone know what voltage I should be getting at the controller? It's labeled as 12v on the back of the controller, but I'm getting 24v. Having problems with all the controllers I've tried and wondering if voltage is the reason. ODU: LG Multi V S. IDU: ARNU363NJA4.