30 Series Torque Converter assembly and installation
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2024
- Here is how to assemble and install a 30 series plate mount system
This is the torque converter used
www.ombwarehouse.com/torque-c...
The riser plate
www.ombwarehouse.com/torque-c...
SAE hardware for Predator 212 and others
www.ombwarehouse.com/predator...
3/4” shims for pulley alignment
www.ombwarehouse.com/3-4-shim...
If you need help or have any questions please email me at help@ombwarehouse.com
I cannot respond to all comments here
My brother Christian doing his thing! Awesome job. Eric did ok lol. Team 9&3/4 loved you guys!
My Comet torque-a-verter kit only came with a #35 sprocket and my bt200 has a 420 chain.
I unfortunately didn’t realize this until I destroyed the sprocket.
Thankfully Comet customer support is actually really good and the guy even offered to FaceTime install the replacement clutch with me.
Looks easy enough. Ill be emailing you soon for the Torque Converter to a 224 Predator.
This was very thorough.
My Comet clutch actually needed to have one of the support brackets cut off to clear that same oil fill plug on the 212cc motors.
Doesn’t look like yours needed that.
Maybe you can edit this and add a notice that if you have a Colman engine with a 17mm crankshaft go watch the other video where you show us how to install the drive pulley
Otherwise this and the Stage 2 kit videos are very well made and informative.
Great video thank you
Da 🐐droppin some knowledge!
Just got back from basically the first hour run with the new clutch. The brass idler bushing has shavings on my chain I haven’t taken the cover off yet but what eats that ? The main bolt coming lose or is that a alignment issue ?
One question, I put my torque converter on just got in mail today from omb, and I watched the video while doing it, the inner drum on front pulley is rattling with outer drum, and I made sure everything was tight what could the problem be here?
Do U need a engine riser dor this TC kit or will it work without it
good stuff Sir, little details are always helpful.... Big Cat Lovers! //63'
Hey I don’t know if u still see this comments but do u know what kinda nut u need for it the one that keeps the chain together can u plz let me know cuz I lost mine don’t know the size
Thanks for the video, I have a problem hope anybody can help.
I put a converter on a Baja Warrior. If I do it the way it's done in this video my
front sprocket is not in line with my rear sprocket. The chain wears the inside of the front sprocket.
So I put a space on to move the front sprocket out. Now the chain works fine, but when I align
the two inside belt plates I don't have enough drive shaft left to mount the hub.
What am I missing?
Thanks
Send me a pic of this issue to my email I may be able to give some advice but not without a visual of what your working with. That is if you still have the issue and haven't solved it in the past 2 wks. Hansen4507@gmail.com
I have a Baja Warrior with the 196cc engine but the crankshaft is treaded on the end to take a nut to hold on the clutch. I don't see any Torquer Converters that will woke with this type of crankshaft on a Mini Bike engine.
The goat 🐐
Would you happen to know when OMB warehouse will have those series 30 torque converter with the stage 1 kit again? It has everything I’m looking for in one package but has been out of stock unfortunately
Hi Bradly, if you are referring the Coleman kits with the riser plate, I am hoping to see those early next week. I have been out of the country for 2 weeks aned that one slipped through the cracks!
I tightened that rear nut down like you did and there’s still a little bit of play and I can’t get it any tighter because the whole pulley starts turning
Hold the pulley tighter!
@@TheGrayGoatGarage I’m a pretty strong guy and it won’t let me go any further.
What size bolts are for the cover. We bought a project bike and came with cover but no bolts
The aftermarket converters use an M6-1.0 x 10mm bolt for the cover
If 1 of the bolt holes that hold the side plate of the torque converter on is stripped but the bolt still goes in all the way just doesn't fully tighten and i use red loctite on that bolt is that good enough or should i rethread it with 1 size bigger ? Right now i have red loctite on it.
I am not keen on going one size bigger. That will compromise the side cover and you would need to be very careful and not go too deep
It is hard for me to evaluate without seeing it
You could try this product
ads.midwayusa.com/product/1007104882?pid=986916&Gunsmithing+-+Tools%2C+Jigs+%26+Fixtures&gclid=Cj0KCQjw37iTBhCWARIsACBt1IyXtZheydVvP47OsDpEkIuTj_5-G4ALYodTrf1F_VklEbrftEAY71MaAuyTEALw_wcB
The best thing to do is replace the sidecover
It may be ok with 3 bolts, but ya never know!
I did that once and I used Teflon tape to jam up what threads were there....it's not ideal but it got me through till I found another side cover.
@@fatbuddycat p points
Is the riser plate mandatory? I'm about to finally receive parts tomorrow to place 2 CXRCY Torque Converters onto 2 predator 224's for a warrior 200 and a ct200u ex.
The riser plate is not 100% necessary, but you will need to raise the engine to get the torque converter mounted.
We designed the riser specifically for the Coleman bikes so you do not have to cut the frame.
We have also used it successfully on the Warrior.
I am restoring an engine. (It’s just a clone 196cc) and noticed that it has aluminum push rods. I think I would rather have steel pushrods in it though. I have a spare clone 163cc that has steel pushrods. The aluminum rods are 0.0035 shorter than the steel rods. Would it be ok for me to swap them? Is that a big enough difference to warrant not swapping or will this difference not be a problem? Thanks for any help.
That is such a minimal difference that it will be fine!
What about putting the sprocket on the right side of the aluminum plate next to the snap ring?That's how mine is.
That is not good! The plates are not designed to take pressure from that side of the plate. We have sent them break because if that.
The sprocket should only be between the plate and the driven
@@TheGrayGoatGarage thanks for you input.Western Pa.
They should make a plug cap to delete the dipstick in the back so don't have cut thing up
It's part of the experience just like doing your governor holes and low oil sensor delete.
I'm in a pickle I have a 92 carter brothers shortster takes a 3/4 jack shaft finding belts for it has not been easy half tempted to make a true jack shaft but finding a 3/4 30 series is tough
If it takes standard bearings for 3/4 can you downsize to something with a 5/8 ID to carry standard keyed shaft? If so you'll be ahead of the game.
@@fatbuddycat I've been looking at bearings it runs a 6 inch 3/4 belts are hard to find if I change it belts are really going to be hard to find
I can install the belt without taking off any of the pulley's.. Is this normal?
Not normal for a 30 series. Chances are you have the wrong belt!
Can this kit be installed to a 301cc predator engine???
That depends. The bearing housing on the mounting plate will hit the rear oil fill plug. Most people have to cut that off to get the plate mounted.
If on a tall kart you could hang it straight down and be ok
You would be better off with a 40 series unit. Heavier duty for all that torque and an easier install
What size are the bolts that hold the mounting plate to engine?
Depends on what engine you have. The Predator 212 engines use a 5/16-24 x 1” bolt and the metric engines would use an M8-1.25 at 20mm in length
What diameter bolt threads on end of crank shaft please, the one in my kit is wrong
There is no way for me to know that! Most 3/4” cranks are either 5/16-24 or M8-1.25
@@TheGrayGoatGarage thanks, ends up it is a 6 mm, just gotta determine length now
@@andynichols213 for the 16MM cranks and torque converters we us M6-1.0 x 55mm long
The kit I got from OMB is missing so many of those parts :(
Take a pic of the kit you received and email me at help@ombwarehouse.com
Impact go brrrrrrrrr
How long should a belt last?
2 days to 2 years! It depends on how the torque converter is installed, the engine, and the gearing choice. Install it right and you could get 6 months from a belt.
does this fits a honda gx200?
Yes, it will fit as long as you have a 3/4” diameter crank that is 2-7/16” long
Update just saw your earlier video on the 16mm setup that doesn't use the bushing but will leave my question. Thanks for your video work on install!! How important is the bronze idle bushing? I am putting together a convertor unit sourced thru Go Power Parts and it looks like yours but they don't use an idle bushing. Is the bushing made of Oilite bronze which is self lubricating or just plain bronze or brass? Can it be made of steel? Saw another video where a guy had trouble with the bronze bushing and left it out and claimed no problem with it unless you let the bike idle for long periods. Being a retired Toolmaker I made my crank pulley spacer out of a solid piece to correct length instead of a stack of washers. Also making support bushing for the small 16mm bolt that holds the driving pulley pack on crank. My bike is the Coleman BT200X.
The bushing is not that important to warrant the work. It only helps the belt when idling…and I don’t know about you, but I don’t let my bike idle all the time. Most guys that eat the bushing on the 3:4” units never replace them!
@@TheGrayGoatGarage Thanks for the reply Eric!
this kit DOES NOT fit on stock colemen ct200s
That is correct! I believe your bike has a 16mm OD crank that requires an adapter to convert the crank to 1" OD
czcams.com/video/EY5ru170xAA/video.html
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