How to String Walk a Barebow | Barebow Archery String Crawling Technique Explained
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- So how exactly do you string walk a barebow and stick within @World Archery barebow rules? I show you the basics of how to string crawl with barebow and show you how to make adjustments to keep your arrows in the middle of the target. I also give you a few places to start incase you a new to barebow archery.
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Hi Jake, I'm a 67 yr old female bare bow shooter. I began shooting a year ago and Have already won a few 20 yard competitions. Your instruction has helped so much. Thank you! The journey continues.
Every single video is a quantum leap for me, thanks. 👍
Hey Jake. Great “how to stringwalk” instruction! I’ve been shooting barebow for a few years now and all you said is spot on. One personal note on setting the crawl - after marking the place with my thumbnail and moving my hand down, I pay far more attention to my index finger position rather than tab position. The tab can shift a little relative to your fingers when you crawl which is why I always line up my thumbnail with the top of my index finger. Oh, and one more thing? It’s very helpful to count Yost lines in the voice of Sesame Streets The Count! “One Yost line, two Yost lines, three Yost lines!! Ah ah ah ah!!!” :)
I never knew exactly what string walking was. You did a fantastic job explaining it. Thank you. Interesting stuff
Perfectly explained. I'll tell people to watch this rather than try to explain to them with a confused look on there face. 😞😄
Hi Kurt hear been watching your videos now for some time now using your string walking technique and really helped won sum club competition's thanks keep watching for more tips thank you
Only been doing archery for 9 months but have always shot Barebow using gap shooting. Ty so much for this video, I’m off to buy a finger tab instead of my glove and can’t wait to give it a go.
Thanks for the videos man! I'm 50, just started shooting with bow (Barebow, in a club). No visions about competing, just doing it for fun and a needed break in every-day work life. Your tips and guidance are extremely valuable. It will take a long time until half a mark up or down gives me a clear indication as I'm a "bit more" all over the place than you are. :) But hey, I've only shot three sessions so will need a bit more practice :) Finding a steady anchor point is difficult. I will certainly be a frequent visitor to your videos and suck up all the knowledge that I find useful for the level I'm currently at.
BTW: Do you have a good video of finding a good anchor point? And maybe some exercises on how to make the movement repeatable?
thank you so much, no one else has covered this I've never used a tab, and theres no one else showing how to for beginners, I'm getting frustrated, I only started a month ago and I picked the bow up and instinctively I know how to shoot, but the club chairman has bullied me so much, I almost quit, I bought my own bow after he was giving me a Brocken rest and gave me all different types and sized arrows, after I bought my own bow he repaired it, and gave new good bows not newbies but when I went to another club to practice, I've been told the coaches should have spent at least 15 mins with me, not only that, I'm finding he's giving wrong information and took out my own target with a ballon, I had 5 arrows left, and he took 6 goes to get a gold, I'm getting golds even when I had a Brocken arrow, I'm working on my grip and release , I'm going to try and use string walking, but at this point I'm frustrated, and he's put a block and target panic into my mind. I feel like giving up, I'm having bullying and met some awful people that are destroying others love for archery as well as myself.
I just switched from split finger to string walking and this is literally an improvement in accuracy through and through!
Hi Jake, new barebow shooter here, I have been binge-watching your content and have learned a lot. Thank you for your hard work. I took your advice and found a level 4 NTS coach here in Oregon. I loved all your Barebow material, however, the shooting with you and your wife and you guys sharing your experiences is my favorite. I hope you will consider making a video on how to prepare for a competition. I look forward to supporting your work in any way I can.
Best video ever for string walking 🚶
For outdoor shooting from 10y to 50y, I have to record both my crawls on my tab and my Beiter plunger tension settings at each 5y distance. I am finding that to stay in the middle, I have to lighten plunger tension at further distance and stiffen my plunger tension at shorter distances.
Have you tried to change the plunger spring strength ? When bought, they come installed with the medium spring. Try the harder one.
excellent guide on adjusting the aiming point like a rifle rear sight. and how to get proper elevation. Also "crawl the direction that want the arrow to move (up/down)
Thank you for explaining so clearly.
I recently started archery in our local club, I have purchesed last week VYGO Kinetic as my seconed bare bow and your video provided me valuable learning's for my next training, thank you Jake!
Hi Jake another great video! So I get sting walking now. But what if you are on a lower draw weight and at 50 yards you need to aim higher than target. Any tips or suggestions for how to aim consistantly for that senario?
Thanks Jake!
Great detail, thanks!
Quick rule of thumb if marked in meters distance in yards will be x 1.1 so if 30m add 3 to the 30 and equal 33 yards to do the reverse its 90% so if it said 30 yards you take 3 off the 30 and it equals 27m
Great video thanks for the info.
Fantastic information as always!!
Thanks a lot, Jake.
Appreciated!!
Clear and concise content as always. So useful.
This is helpful. Thanks
This was extremely useful and was an amazing guide!
Great info .BB is really taking off.
Thank you Jake for all of your hard work making these videos! I have a question: I have read that when string walking you should have both a top and bottom nock point to prevent the arrow from moving at release. What is your opinion on this matter?
thank you.
Solid breakdown... always see people post in forums asking what string walking is... now we have this solid content to post in response.
I like the updated flyover graphic for the barebow shirt advert... another little bump in the edit, nice touch!
Thanks!
Glad to make something helpful.
Jake, I have a silly question so please bare with me. I started string walking with 26 lb limbs and worked really well for up to 30 yards and realized for 50m I’d have to aim the bow at really high angles where I’m just looking at trees and it’s not that viable to aim, the tab stays just under the arrow, am I doing it wrong? I’ve switched to 38 lb limbs and I’m realizing it’s difficult to anchor and stay anchored with that weight. Should I stay at 38 lbs or go back to 26 lb limbs and use a different some technique for hitting targets 40 to 60 yards? I spoke to an Olympic trainer which has no knowledge on shooting barebow but he insists 26 lbs is enough to shoot 70 yards. I can see how that can be done with a pin sight but I don’t understand how it’s done with string walk. Thank you for any and all help.
Great explanation for beginners like me thanks
Great video Jake, please do a video on proper way to trim the Yost tab.
Well, I learned something today.
Jake Great video as always, I have learned quite a bit watching your channel. I have to say that string walking seems like a good aiming solution except for a few things and Please correct me if I am wrong.
1. The further down you walk the string will cause the tiller of the bow to be off from top to bottom limb which will cause erratic arrow flight and extra wear on the bow unless the bow is tillered for string walking. Your olympic bow may be tillered for string walking, but I don't know of any hunting recurves that are tillered in such a way.
2. The bow weight will have a large impact as well A heavy weight bow say 55 or 60 pounds like I shoot does not work well for string walking because the bow is fighting you more and more as you walk down the bow string. So you need to shoot much lighter bow weight.
3. The bow noise increases so much that it sounds like a hand grenade going off the further you string walk down the bow string.
4 Not shooting the bow from the center or close to the center of the bow goes against the way the bow is engineered to perform. Unless it is tillered for string walking.
5. You also need a verly long bow say a 62 to 68 inch bow. This will not work with a hunting size bow of 54 or 56 inches. The string pinch as you walk down the string would become severe.
What are thoughts, Am I wrong in my assesment. Thanks and keep up the great content..
With barebow, the usual length is a 70" bow. Thanks to the ILF system of limb connection, tilller can be adjusted to compensate for limb sync. Arrows used are usually fairly light as are the bow weights, mostly 45lbs and less. Yes the bow noise increases but since it's not a hunting scenario, no matter. Centershot can be adjusted using the rest and plunger. I haven't seen anyone who is halfway decent in barebow using a heavy one piece, two piece or three piece recurve. They're just not compatible to good scoring.
Thanks Jake, good information. Remember to set your tiller different also, more to even tiller on bottom limb to top limb
Thanks from Germany :)
Wowww you best shot barebow omg 😮
Great video, very helpful. !. What is your draw weight in this video 2. What arrow type is this? I see it is plastic veins? Thanks
Jake nice video… I shoot NFAA rules which yardages will go up to 80 yards and open shoots that will go up to 100 yards at times… can you explain how to aim at these distances? I am point on at 50 yards… I use a corner of the mouth anchor.. For farther distances I use a pick a point method always starting my aiming process with point on for arrow alignment then I elevate the arrow.. for 55 yards I’ll aim with the plunger.. for 70 yards I’ll use the front on the bow shelf… for 80 yards I’ll use the back of the bow shelf.. for 90 yards I’ll stack the front shelf to the plunger then aim wherever the arrow top ends up at… for 100 yards I’ll double stack.. front shelf on then elevate to arrow tip then elevate front shelf to arrow tip again.. done correctly it’s very accurate.. I’m sure the viewers would love to know this… I’ve been shooting all styles for 60 years… thanx Jake
Got it!
Hi , thanks for share this useful video . I have a question ? Wuold you tell me about a weight your barebow limb . Thanks.
Thank you for the video! I've been shooting barebow for just a couple of months now, and wanted to try out string walking. This is the easiest guide to understand, that I've found. What is your draw weight in this video? At some points you're holding pretty long.
Thanks Jake... do you find that your grip feels different at different stringwalking heights. I have a standard medium high W&W grip and I find that when stringwalking the grip feels quite different at various distances?
Hi!!! Thank you for this video! How many pounds do you draw?
I just recently start Archery. At first I was doing instinctive, which was ok but really at any distance you can only expect so much accuracy. Then I started doing gap shooting and that's much better but it is really not that easy to judge the gap, especially if you move around in distance. Now I'm going to try string walking. It obviously gives you a lot more precision in aiming.
Hi Jake, do you aim with the tip of the arrow point on the gold for each shot?
Interesting.
I didnt know this finger tab existed. I always thought it was by guess
Buenas sensaciones las que me transmite la bici
Well, that cleared that up. I use a high anchor point up on my cheek bone. In order to properly string walk you need a relatively low anchor point so you have room to drop the knock end of your arrow. So do I change my anchor point to a lower position or just leave it and shoot instinctively. I had started going to a lower anchor point for shots over 20 yards, but that is real "iffy" for consistency. Great video Jake!
Jake thank you so much. I learned a lot from that video that i really never understood before. May I ask what weight are you pulling on that bow you used in the video? Is there any real advantage to go from a 30 lb draw to say a 40lb draw? Either way you need to adjust for height. Do you find that the difference in speed from a 30lb to a 40lb bow will buck the wind better?
Thanks! Shane
Is it legal to have a separate reference sheet - maybe attached to your forearm ?
Thanks for this. I’m new to stringwalking and find that my thumb is not flexible enough to reach the bottom of the scale on the finger tab and so at full stretch I can’t get the tab low enough and so my shots are going high at less than 20 yds. What’s the answer?
Really needed this I am just starting in barebow and want to use string walking. I was looking for just this information. Now to get an indexed tab. Been looking at a couple on Amazon going to use your link to them so you can get a little as well. Try to support your efforts. Thank you again .
Please put in an Amazon link sith each video so we can go there from you.
I saw someone using this one at the tournament I shot last and it looked decent to me. amzn.to/3erTRJl
@@JakeKaminskiArchery good that is one I ordered. Thank you.
Today with my old tab started on crawls after this video as help. I am happy with my groups helped a lot. Thank you. I can do more with indexed tab.
Best knocking point for string walking??
Hey everyone! I imagine you guys know this but jakes bow poundage is probably decently high but the concept is pretty similar. If you shoot a lower poundage, at 50 meters, you might not string walk at all, is that correct? I hit my 50 yards 1 cm under the nock for 32 lbs draw
I thought I'd solved my problem of my old eyes not being able to distinquish between the Yost tab marks. But now I find out I can't put red fingernail polish on the big marks. Just when I started seeing some progress. I don't think I'll change back just yet since I can't see myself shooting any WA events anytime soon.
What does he mean with the crest? Aim the crest at the yellow part?
Different distances eh. I have two risers. One for three under string walking and one setup for split finger shooting to get me to 100yards target or 180yards clouting. Also for the beginner's if your struggling to get out really far use your shelf. What I mean by that is put your arrow point on the gold and rise up so the shelf becomes the point of aim works for me. Oh and practice, practice, practice. Good luck people
Hi Jake, very instructive and helpful video. Thanks a lot. No tab on your nose. Do the vanes never prick in your nose?
The string touches the tip of my nose, my anchor allows this without my nose being hit.
what bow do you use? and arrow
Good video Jake, does shooting gap change the draw weight any and is gap shooting good for hunting
It does change the draw weight ever so slightly. I say, whatever puts food on the table is the way to go!
Heavy arrows vs light arrows effect on crawl?
Hi Jake, why do barebow archers tilt their bows?
and then it does not affect laterally
Hey Jake, thank you for your tutorials, they have been really helpful for someone learning archery alone. I've been practicing string walking with great success at larger distances. However, I do have a problem with shorter distances (i.e. 20 meters and less). At those distances the arrow is right on my eye, so I can't see the target, and I do have to string walk ~10cm (4inches), which is way more than what you did in this video for the 10 meters. May it be something I've set up wrong?
try making your draw weight higher to "close the Gap"
How does arrow length affect this?
For the people using this for hunting or something that doesn’t have rules, try putting little “nock points” for all your crawl settings on the string itself,i anchor high so my point on is low but I have nock points on the string for 5yd,10yd,15yd,20yd and my point on is 23. And each point is set up to be positioned in the middle of my index finger.
Thanks for the heads up. I wondered about this putting marks on the string vs the tab.
Excellent video Jake, curious, what is your anchor point, which finger and corner of the mouth or a specific point or tooth.
Check this out Barebow Form Series: Anchor Position | A Solid Anchor Means Higher Scores | Episode 6 czcams.com/video/vAQzEAdwSXk/video.html
And this one. czcams.com/video/Cwag9sQpFr8/video.html
Doesnt altering where you pull on the string alter the velocity of the arrow in addition to the angle you're aiming?
Yes, slightly but your crawl compensates for that.
Any thoughts on carbon v aluminium riser for barebow? Just switched to use my wiawis nano max and it's SO sweet in terms of less vibration (without stabs dampening etc) by comparison with ali
Agree 100% barebows are very vibration prone.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery lot of customizing needed on grip though. Not sure WA legal
Should be. Nothing in the rules against a modified grip.... Yet.
Jake what arrow rest are you using on your barebow setup?
Zniper
i didn’t know you meant to string walk instead. I was trying to move my how arm up and down 😅
I was wondering if you or anyone in the comments can link to where I can get a tab like that with factory markings? I'm having trouble finding one.
look up yost finger tab
Are you allowed to make a line on the 12 oclock position of your arrow to help as an aiming guide?
Not to my knowledge. Due to the angle of viewing I’d be surprised if you could see it personally.
FORS front opposite, rear same
Great video Jake, I was wondering what the adjustment would be when you exceed your point on? So my point on is 47 yards, but regularly need to shoot up to 60 yards for UAR. Is string walking only useful for point on and below?
You can move to split finger, aim high or start to use the rest, shelf or knuckles as reference from what those who have told me.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery awesome thanks 🙏
Beginner question: Up and down aiming seems straight forward, but I can't figure out the prerequisites for left to right aiming. Does the eye need to be exactly in line the arrow for this to work? Or is it about string placement in relation to the arrow tip / limb? Please tell me how to "calibrate" the left-to-right aiming in barebow archery. (I'm aware of arrow tuning and center shot tuning, but I don't really grab the basics of left-to-right aiming.)
Zven….To calibrate the left and right, it’s about string placement. Depending on how you anchor and how you like to shoot, you could shoot with the string blue covering the arrow, covering the plunger, or covering the back edge of the riser. I personally cover the plunger when I shoot.
I don’t think it matters which one you use, as long as you use the same blur location every shot. Then tune your bow (rest/plunger) to that specific string blur location.
The string blur should be in your peripheral vision, properly aligned wherever you have chosen to align it. From there, it’s all about the arrow point.
If your string blur is properly aligned, and you make a good shot, the arrow will hit right where it was aimed.
(It’s making the shot that’s the really tricky part….Jake makes it look easy, but he has impeccable form and a rock solid release technique…and two Olympic Silver Medals to show for his efforts).
Hope that helps.
@@geebee3d Thanks, really appriciate it.
There are several factors here so I will try be brief. I am commenting as a right handed shooter and where I have determined the correct string crawl. I give a condition and then a possible remedy. For lefties, condition 1 = remedy 2, condition 2 = remedy 1. What I propose is not absolute but a good place to start.
1. Arrows landing right in target - Usually bow hand catching or grabbing or gripping the bow. Bow hand should be RELAXED and pushing into the bow rather than holding it. Often, if the hand is tense, the bow hand position is not optimal. ( Basic rule of thumb, keep the thumb pointed towards the target. This is not absolute, but a good place to start.)
2. Arrows landing left in target - If the bow hand is not moving, the string hand is detaching from the face which ultimately changes the alignment of the arrow in relation to the target. If the bow hand or arm moves, then steady the bow shoulder (lock the shoulder blades downwards - not the hips) and maintain good form.
3. Arrows landing all over the place, first work your form and get this consistent before taking on specifics of left and right.
4. Form, Form, Form, Form - This is the base of everything.
Really helpful tutorial!
Just one question & maybe a lot of barebow archers could relate too: My aiming point WITHOUT string walking is somewhere bottom-right, say 5 o'clock in blue. While I can string walk to get it vertically right, how do you solve the horizontal offset?
OK, so if your point-on distance is 30 meters. Then if you move closer than 30 m, you crawl down. But also if you move back you ... also crawl down? ie; your "point-on" distance is the point at which you hit what you are aiming with with the tab up against the arrow and anything either closer or farther requires crawling down ???
If your point on is 30, you crawl down to shoot shorter distances. If you want to shoot further than your point on you need to either; Aim higher, anchor lower or shoot split finger.
So string walk work for shorter distance how would you do it for further distance. At 40 yard I can aim above the flat but at 50 yard I’m feeling totally lost
you move your fingers higher on the string at longer distances. depending on your anchor point, the distance you get when your fingers are up against your arrow are pretty much the max for this style. if you want to go further you can try anchoring lower
So if you shoot lower poundage and your point on distance is say 35 meters how do you shoot at distances farther than that?
You aim with the shelf, or the rest, or whatever lines up for you. Rather than the arrow tip.
How do you accurately crawl with a trad bow?
I’ll go top of the line, bottom of the line… or at least attempt to.
Hi Jake, My string crawl for 20m is 2 and 1/2 fingers and pointing arrow tip on gold. I anchor behind rear of jaw bone like you do to avoid nose scraping.My question is: can I move the string nock points up or down(instead of string walking) for 50m(and use a 3finger or split finger draw) ?
Is that a large or small Yost tab?
Large
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thanx, just what I ordered as I'm delving into Barebow as well.
What bows is this safe to do with?
Really any recurve.
I wouldn't do this with a self bow, or a really short bow (less than 58 or 60"). Basically any recurve bow with fiberglass or carbon laminates should be able to handle this relatively safely. There's a formula somewhere for the "safest" estimated maximum crawl based on tiller and length proportion, but it's not actually very exact.
Any ilf Aluminium or carbon riser that is 25" long or more and any ilf limbs.
I would use for 27-28 draw a 68 bow, 29-30draw a 70 bow and less than 27 draw i would use a 66 bow, maybe 23" riser and medium limbs
Also most trad bows, take down or single piece, are tillered for either split finger or 3 under with no crawl. Shooting these types of bows with a crawl is very hard on the bow... essentially firing them every time out of tune. Modern material bows can stand up to this, but most natural materials of these bows make it not advisable.
Gee whiz that looks easy. 🤓
OMG.. I was so far off on my bow string walking. I needed 2.5 inches down for 10 yards. I think my nock is too high.
What length bow are you using?
I am tall with a 30 inch draw. Will this make a big difference?
This video was a 70” bow. I have a draw length of about 29 5/8”
Haha. Raucous Bluejays!
Very active lately.
As you walk down you will lose power. Does that not concern you?
My I know what is the poundage of that bow?
Somewhere around 46
What about using a kisser button
I am pretty close, a little high :))))) ... don't make use depressed dude :)))
Why not mark the string
Against the rules.
Wstyd i porażka z15 metrów strzelać do tarczy z przyrządem który nie służy do prawdziwego łucznictwa schowaj się i nie rozsmieszaj kochających ten sport